Dogs : Don't Buy

I first wrote this article nearly 10 years ago. Since then it has become a classic of Bouvier literature, reprinted many times. Since then I have spent nearly 5 years in Bouvier Rescue, personally rescuing, rehabilitating, and placing 3 or 4 per year and assisting in the placement of others. Very little has needed revision in this new addition.....I give my permission freely to all who wish to reprint and distribute it in hopes of saving innocent Bouviers (Ed. note: we read CBR's here!) from neglect and abandonment by those who should never have acquired them in the first place.

Interested in buying a Chesapeake Bay Retriever? You must be or you wouldn't be reading this. You've already heard how marvelous CBRs are. Well, I think you should also hear, before it's too late, that

CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVERS ARE NOT THE PERFECT BREED FOR EVERYONE.

As a breed they have a few features that some people find charming, but that some people find mildly unpleasant and some people find downright intolerable.

There are different breeds for different needs. There are over 200 purebred breeds of dogs in the world. Maybe you'd be better off with some other breed. Maybe you'd be better off with a cat. Maybe you'd be better off with goldfish, a parakeet, a hamster, or some house plants.

DON'T GET A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you are attracted to the breed chiefly by its appearance. From a distance, the appearance of the CBRs you have seen may indicate that they are a chocolate, wavy-haired version of a Labrador Retriever. They are the largest of the retriever breeds and are not from the same lineage as a Labrador - the breedings are entirely different.

Chesapeake Bay retrievers are not related to Goldens or Labradors - and because of this very basic genetic difference, you cannot compare Chessies to these breeds. Chesapeake Bay Retrievers are the result of crosses with Newfoundlands, hounds, setters, water spaniels and other dogs and were first recognized as a distinct breed in America in the middle of the 19th century. They were ducking dogs used by market hunters for retrieving waterfowl and protecting the day’s catch. These early objectives in breeding and selecting for outstanding ducking dogs has endured in today’s Chessies - they are still remarkably tough working dogs and loyal, protective companions. Chessies are not "happy-go lucky" retrievers - they will not "love" everyone they meet. They are indifferent to other people and dogs - very different from Goldens and Labradors. Chesapeakes are unique, intensely loyal, protective, sensitive, and serious dogs - traits that require thoughtful consideration before adopting a dog.

DON'T GET A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you don't intend to educate (train) your dog. Basic obedience and household rules training is not optional for the Chesapeake Bay Retriever. As an absolute minimum, you must teach him to reliably respond to commands to come, to lie down, to stay, and to walk at your side, on or off leash and regardless of temptations. You must also teach him to respect your household rules: e.g., is he allowed to get on the furniture? Is he allowed to beg at the table? What you allow or forbid is unimportant; but it is critical that you, not the dog, make these choices and that you enforce your rules consistently. You must commit yourself to attending an 8 to 10 week series of weekly lessons at a local obedience club or professional trainer and to doing one or two short (5 to 20 minutes) homework sessions per day. As commands are learned, they must be integrated into your daily life by being used whenever appropriate and enforced consistently.

Young CBR puppies are relatively easy to train: they are eager to please, intelligent, and calm-natured, with a relatively good attention span. Once a CBR has learned something, he tends to retain it well. Your cute, sweet little Chessie puppy will grow up to be a large, powerful dog with a highly self-assertive personality and the determination to finish whatever he starts. If he has grown up respecting you and your rules, then all his physical and mental strength will work for you. But if he has grown up without rules and guidance from you, surely he will make his own rules, and his physical and mental powers will often act in opposition to your needs and desires. For example: he may tow you down the street as if competing in a sled-dog race; he may grab food off the table; he may forbid your guests entry to his home. This training cannot be delegated to someone else, e.g., by sending the dog away to "boarding school," because the relationship of respect and obedience is personal between the dog and the individual who does the training. This is true of all dogs to a greater or lesser degree, but definitely to a very great degree in CBRs. While you definitely may want the help of an experienced trainer to teach you how to train your dog, you yourself must actually train your Chessie. As each lesson is well learned, then the rest of the household (except young children) must also work with the dog, insisting he obey them as well.

Many of the Chesapeakes that are rescued from pounds and shelters show clearly that they have received little or no basic training, neither in obedience nor in household deportment; yet these same dogs respond well to such training by the rescuer or the adopter. It seems likely that a failure to train the dog is a significant cause of CBR abandonment. If you don't intend to educate your dog, preferably during puppyhood, you would be better off with a breed that is both small and socially submissive, e.g., a Shetland Sheepdog. Such a dog does require training, but a little bit goes further than with a Chessie. Chessies can, with adequate training, excel at such working competitions as field trials and hunt tests, obedience, agility, and tracking.

DON'T BUY A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you lack leadership (self-assertive) personality. Dogs do not believe in social equality. They live in a social hierarchy led by a pack-leader (Alpha). The alpha dog is generally benevolent, affectionate, and non-bullying towards his subordinates; but there is never any doubt in his mind or in theirs that the alpha is the boss and makes the rules. Whatever the breed, if you do not assume the leadership, the dog will do so sooner or later, and with more or less unpleasant consequences for the abdicating owner. Like the untrained dog, the pack leader dog makes his own rules and enforces them against other members of the household by means of a dominant physical posture and a hard-eyed stare, followed by a snarl, then a knockdown blow or a bite. Breeds differ in tendencies towards social dominance; and individuals within a breed differ considerably.

Chesapeakes as a breed tend to be of a socially dominant personality. You really cannot afford to let a Chesapeake become your boss. You do not have to have the personality or mannerisms of a Marine boot camp Sergeant, but you do have to have the calm, quiet self-assurance and self assertion of the successful parent ("Because I'm your mother, that's why.") or successful grade-school teacher. If you think you might have difficulty asserting yourself calmly and confidently to exercise leadership, then choose a breed known for its socially subordinate disposition, such as a Golden Retriever or a Shetland Sheepdog, and be sure to ask the breeder to select one of the more submissive pups in the litter for you. If the whole idea of "being the boss" frightens or repels you, don't get a dog at all. Cats don't expect leadership. A caged bird or hamster, or fish doesn't need leadership or household rules. Leadership and training are inextricably intertwined: leadership personality enables you to train your dog, and being trained by you reinforces your dog's perception of you as the alpha.

DON'T BUY A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you want a totally unaggressive and unprotective dog. Most Chessies have an assertive and confident personality. When confronted with a threat, a proper Chesapeake Bay Retriever will be somewhat more ready to fight than to flee. Thus he may respond aggressively in situations where many other breeds back down. Most CBRs have some inclination to act aggressively to repel intruders on their territory (i.e.,your home) and to counteract assaults upon their packmates (you and your family). Without training and leadership from you to guide him, the dog cannot judge correctly whom to repel and whom to tolerate. Without training and leadership, sooner or later he may injure an innocent person who will successfully sue you for more than you own. With good training and leadership from you, he can be profoundly valuable as a defender of your home and family. (See also remarks on stability and socialization below.)

If you feel no need of an assertive dog, if you are embarrassed by a barking dog at your door, or if you have the slightest doubts of your ability and willingness to supply the essential socialization, training and leadership, then please choose one of the many breeds noted for thoroughly unaggressive temperament, such as a Sheltie or a Golden Retriever.

DON'T GET A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you are unwilling to share your house and your life with your dog. Chessies were bred to share in the work of the family and to spend most of their waking hours working with the family. They thrive on companionship and they want to be wherever you are. They are happiest living with you in your house and going with you when you go out. While they usually tolerate being left at home by themselves, they should not be relegated to the backyard or kennel. A puppy exiled from the house is likely to grow up to be unsociable (fearful and/or unprovokedly aggressive), unruly, and unhappy. He may well develop pastimes, such as digging or barking, that will displease you and/or your neighbors. An adult so exiled will be miserable too. If you don't strongly prefer to have your dog's companionship as much as possible, enjoying having him sleep in your bedroom at night and sharing many of your activities by day, you should choose a breed less oriented to human companionship. Likewise, if your job or other obligations prevent you from spending much time with your dog. No dog is really happy without companionship, but the pack hounds are more tolerant of being kenneled or yarded so long as it is in groups of 2 or more. A better choice would be a cat, as they are solitary by nature.

DON'T GET A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you don't value laid-back companionship and calm affection. A Chessie becomes deeply attached and devoted to his own family, but he doesn't "wear his heart on his sleeve." Some are noticeably reserved, others are more outgoing, but few adults are usually exuberantly demonstrative of their affection. They make remarkable eye contact with their favorite people. They like to be near you, usually in the same room, preferably on a comfortable pad or cushion in a corner or under a table, just "keeping you company." They enjoy conversation, petting and cuddling when you offer it, but they are moderate and not overbearing in coming to you to demand much attention. They are emotionally sensitive to their favorite people: when you are joyful, proud, angry, or grief-stricken, your CBR will immediately perceive it and will believe himself to be the cause. The relationship can be one of great mellowness, depth and subtlety; it is a relation on an adult-to-adult level, although certainly not one devoid of playfulness - Chessies are famous for their vocalization with their people (the "roo-roo-roos" and the snorts). As puppies, of course, they will be more dependent, more playful, and more demonstrative. In summary, Chesapeakes tend to be sober and thoughtful, rather than giddy clowns or synchophants. A number of breeds retain into adulthood a more puppyish and playful disposition, e.g., Australian Shepherds, Malamutes, and others. Quite a few are far more dramatically demonstrative and/or more clingingly dependent, e.g., the Golden Retriever.

DON'T GET A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you are fastidious about the neatness of your home. The CBR’s unique, water-repellent coat and his love of playing in water combine to make him a highly efficient transporter of dirt into your home, depositing same on your floors and rugs and possibly also on your furniture and clothes. You must realize that you should be prepared to get wet when you and your Chessie are near water. Although it is technically true that CBRs do not shed long coats and do not require professional grooming, they do "blow coat" at least twice a year and your house will be full of brown "dust bunnies" tumbleweeding their way about your house. I don't mean to imply that you must be a slob or slattern to live happily with a Chessie, but you do have to have the attitude that your dog's company means more to you than does neatness and you do have to be comfortable with a less than immaculate house. All dogs, like all children, create a greater or lesser degree of household mess. The Basenji is perhaps the cleanest, due to its cat-like habits; but cats are cleaner yet, and goldfish hardly ever mess up the house.

DON'T GET A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you dislike daily physical exercise. Chessies need exercise to maintain the health of heart and lungs and to maintain muscle tone. An adult CBR should have a morning outing of a mile or more, as you walk briskly, jog, or bicycle beside him, and a similar evening outing. For puppies, shorter and slower walks, several times a day are preferred for exercise and housebreaking. But, more than just walks, you need to "work" your Chessie. Chesapeakes were bred to work hard and the modern dogs still thrive on work. Anyone who owns one should be able to devote at least 20 minutes a day either working, training, retrieving or playing with them. Chesapeakes that are not worked - both physically and mentally - are prone to mischief and will not "think." Because of their love of water, 20 minutes of water retrieves is usually much more intense work than an hour walking around the neighborhood nicely on the leash. These active, intelligent dogs need jobs and responsibilities - it is best if you designate what these jobs are - you might not agree with what your Chessie decides is important!

All dogs need daily exercise of greater or lesser length and vigor. If providing this exercise and work is beyond you, physically or temperamentally, then choose one of the many small and energetic breeds that can exercise itself within your fenced yard. Most of the Toys and Terriers fit this description, but don't be surprised if a Terrier is inclined to dig in the earth since digging out critters is the job that they were bred to do. Cats can be exercised indoors with mouse-on-a-string toys. Hamsters will exercise themselves on a wire wheel. House plants don't need exercise.

DON'T GET A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you believe that dogs should run "free." Whether you live in town or country, no dog can safely be left to run "free" outside your fenced property and without your direct supervision and control. The price of such "freedom" is inevitably injury or death: from dogfights, from automobiles, from the Pound or from justifiably irate neighbors. Even though Chessies are home-loving and less inclined to roam than most breeds, an unfenced CBR is destined for disaster. The unfenced city CBR is likely to exercise his inherited retrieving instinct on joggers, bicyclists, and automobiles. A thoroughly obedience-trained Chesapeake Bay Retriever can enjoy the limited and supervised freedom of off-leash walks with you in appropriately chosen environments. If you don't want the responsibility of confining and supervising your pet, then no breed of dog is suitable for you. A neutered cat will survive such irresponsibly given "freedom" somewhat longer than a dog, but will eventually come to grief. A better answer for those who crave a "free" pet is to set out feeding stations for some of the indigenous wildlife, such as raccoons, which will visit for handouts and which may eventually tolerate your close observation.

DON'T GET A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you can't afford to buy, feed, and provide health care for one. Chesapeakes are not a cheap breed to buy, as running a careful breeding program with due regard for temperament, trainability, and physical soundness (hips & eyes especially) cannot be done cheaply. The time the breeder should put into each puppy's "pre-school" and socialization is also costly. The "bargain" puppy from a "back-yard breeder" who unselectively mates any two CBRs who happen to be of opposite sex may well prove to be extremely costly in terms of bad temperament, bad health, and lack of essential socialization. In contrast, the occasional adult or older pup is available at modest price from a disenchanted owner or from a breeder, shelter, or rescuer to whom the dog was abandoned; most of these "used" Chessies are capable of becoming a marvelous dog for you if you can provide training,leadership, and understanding. Whatever the initial cost of your Chessie, the upkeep will not be cheap.

Being large dogs, CBRs eat relatively large meals. (Need I add that what goes in one end must eventually come out the other?) Large dogs tend to have larger veterinary bills, as the amount of anesthesia and of most medications is proportional to body weight. Spaying or neutering, which costs more for larger dogs, is an essential expense for virtually all pet CBRs, as it "takes the worry out of being close", prevents serious health problems in later life, and makes the dog a more pleasant companion. Chessies are subject to hip dysplasia which can be costly to treat. (Your best insurance against dysplasia is to buy only from a litter bred from OFA-certified parents and (if possible), grandparents. Yes, this generally means paying more. Finally, the modest fee for participation in a series of basic obedience training classes is an essential investment in harmonious living with your dog; such fees are the same for all breeds, although conceivably you will need to travel a bit further from home to find a training class teacher who is competent with the more formidable breeds, such as the Chesapeake. The modest annual outlays for immunizations and for local licensing are generally the same for all breeds, although some counties have a lower license fee for spayed/neutered dogs. All dogs, of whatever breed and however cheaply acquired, require significant upkeep costs, and all are subject to highly expensive veterinary emergencies. Likewise all cats.

DON'T GET A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you want the "latest, greatest ferocious killer attack dog". Although the Chesapeake has been bred to be protective of his owner’s home, and he may be described as the "Rottweiler of the retrievers," the CBR is less capable in these respects than half a dozen other protection breeds. CBRs must have great respect for the leadership of his handler and must be solidly trained in basic obedience to that handler. Equally essential, he must have a rock-solidly stable temperament and he must also have been "socialized" out in the world enough to know that most people are friendly and harmless, so that he can later learn to distinguish the bad guys from the good guys. Please don't buy any dog for protection training unless you are absolutely committed to the extreme amount of work that will be required of you personally. Also talk to your lawyer and your insurance agent first. In contrast to the protection-trained dog, trained to bite on direct command or in reaction to direct physical assault on his master, the "deterrent dog" dissuades the vast majority of aspiring burglars, rapists, and assailants by his presence, his appearance, and his demeanor. Seeing such a dog, the potential wrong-doer simply decides to look for a safer victim elsewhere. For this job, all that is needed is a dog that is large and that appears to be well-trained and unafraid. CBR’s are suited to this type of protection, since they usually bark at people who approach the property or the home. On a leash, however, most people equate the CBR with the Labrador, a notoriously friendly dog.

Other breeds of dog which are suitable for protection or for deterrence include the Doberman, Rottweiler, German Shepherd, Briard, Belgian Sheepdog, Belgian Tervuren, and Belgian Malinois. Of these the first 3 are recognized by the general public as "police dogs" and are probably far more feared by most potential criminals would be by a Chesapeake. The Malamute, though not suitable for protection, is quite effective for deterrence due to his highly wolf-like appearance.

DON'T GET A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER if you are not willing to commit yourself for the dog's entire lifetime. No dog deserves to be cast out because his owners want to move to a no-pet apartment or because he is no longer a cute puppy or didn't grow up to be a beauty contest winner or because his owners through lack of leadership and training have allowed him to become an unruly juvenile delinquent with a repertoire of undesirable behaviors. The prospects of a responsible and affectionate second home for a "used" dog are never very bright, but they are especially dim for a large, poorly mannered dog. A Chesapeake dumped into a Pound or Shelter has almost no chance of survival unless he has the great good fortune to be spotted by someone dedicated to Chesapeake Bay Retriever Rescue. The prospects for adoption for a youngish, well-trained, CBR whose owner seeks the assistance of the nearest CBR Club or Rescue group are fairly good; but an older Chessie has diminishing prospects. Be sure to contact your local American Chesapeake breeder or Rescue group if you are diagnosed as terminally ill or have other equally valid reason for seeking an adoptive home. Be sure to contact your local Chessie breeder or rescuer if you are beginning to have difficulties in training your Chessie, so these can be resolved. Be sure to make arrangements in your will or with your family to ensure continued care or adoptive home for your Chessie if you should pre-decease him.

The life span of a Chesapeake Bay Retriever is from 10 to 15 years. If that seems too long a time for you to give an unequivocal loyalty to your Chessie, then please do not get one! Indeed, as most dogs have a life expectancy that is as long or longer, please do not get any dog!

IN CONCLUSION

If all the preceding "bad news" about Chessies hasn't turned you away from the breed, then by all means DO GET A CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER! They are every bit as wonderful as you have heard!

If buying a puppy, be sure to shop carefully for a responsible and knowledgeable breeder who places high priority on breeding for sound temperament and trainability and good health in all matings. Such a breeder will interrogate and educate potential buyers carefully. Such a breeder will continue to be available for advice and consultation for the rest of the puppy's life and will insist on receiving the dog back if ever you are unable to keep it.

However as an alternative to buying a Chessie puppy, you may want to give some serious consideration to adopting a rescued CBR. Despite the irresponsibility of their previous owner, rescued CBRs have proven to be rehabilitated so as to become superb family companions for responsible and affectionate adopters. Many rescuers are skilled trainers who evaluate temperament and provide remedial training before offering dogs for placement, and who offer continued advisory support afterwards. Contact the Chesapeake Bay Retriever Rescue & Relief home page (cbrrescue.org) or a local breeder to learn who is doing Rescue work.

Dogs : Dominance

Before buying a Chesapeake puppy, please read this article as Chesapeakes aren't for everyone.

Just like people, dogs have individual personalities and traits. Certain breeds tend to produce dominant personality types. Within each litter of puppies there is also a variety of personality types-from dominant to submissive. If you are adopting a dog that exhibits a dominant, assertive personality, the following information will be helpful in establishing your new relationship.

Traits of a dominant, assertive dog: 

1} Dominant, assertive dogs think of themselves as the leader in your family or "pack". This is natural for the dog but sometimes it is difficult for the human to understand. These dogs are often ready to challenge for the right to lead. Once allowed to become the leader, the dog may be willing to fight to retain the position.

2} Dominant dogs do not, as a rule, do well around children. They will not tolerate the quick movements and unpredictable handling typical of children. Unless you are there to carefully supervise, do not allow these dogs to be around children.

3} Dominant dogs may be small or large. A small dog with an assertive personality can be just as possessive, protective and pushy as any large dog of the same temperament. Do not tolerate aggressive behavior from either of them. Small or large, a growl or snap is likely to lead to a bite. Small or large dogs that bite are dangerous.

4} Dominant dogs may be subtle in their manipulation of you. When you stop stroking the dog, he may nudge you to continue. If you resume the stoking in response to the nudging, he has successfully trained you to treat him as the leader. Assertive dogs take compliance to mean they have the right to make you obey them. They nudge, you stroke, they growl, you resume stroking. It is one small step to growling at you when you try to make them get off the couch, followed by snapping when you insist they obey.

Living with a dominant assertive dog doesn’t mean you can't let your dog sleep on the couch or have him in your lap when you stroke him. It just means you need to be very aware of how the dog is interpreting your actions. You need to learn the dog's language. You also need to learn about leadership, so that you can be in charge instead of a dog calling the shots, if you are in charge, you have the right to allow the dog on the couch and also to make him get off the couch when you want. If you are not willing to be an assertive leader, do not adopt a dog with this personality type. Both you and the dog will be happier if you select a more submissive dog. Two things help make a positive relationship with a dominant dog. The first is obedience training and the second is to establish you as the pack leader. Establishing oneself as the pack leader and to be followed.

Dominance and Principles Behind It 

For obedience training to proceed smoothly, your dog must consider you its alpha leader. This means that it considers YOU the boss. There are a number of exercises you can do to establish and maintain dominance over your dog. Individual dogs vary in submissiveness. If your dog is very submissive, you don't need to worry about establishing dominance (in fact, you may need to tone down your own dominating behavior to help bolster its confidence). Most dogs are happy to be submissive: just be sure to show approval at the occasional signs of submission, and assert dominance if it tries to test you (most dogs will, in adolescence). A very few dogs may be dominant and continually challenge you for dominance, in which case you will actively need to assert and establish your position. More often, people will misinterpret adolescent high energy or bratty behavior as ploys for dominance when they are not. Think of a two-year-old human child testing her parents. She's finding out what the limits are rather than actually "challenging" her parents for leadership. Puppies and young dogs do exactly the same thing. Correct them firmly, but don't go into an all out "dominance battle" when not appropriate. Returning to the toddler analogy, the most you might do is a sharp “No-Sit”, or a cuff up under the chin then a No-sit. You would not pick her up; hold her against the wall and scream at her. Remember that most dogs are still "young". Only apply additional pressure or corrections as they grow or are older and do it along with supervision. If you are not sure how to correct a dominant dog contact your breeder for additional help.

Never mistake being alpha with punishment 

An alpha leader is fair. An alpha leader deserves its position. An alpha leader does not use fear, punishment or brute force to achieve and maintain its position. An alpha leader, instead, makes it crystal clear what behaviors it approves of and which it do not. An alpha leader expects its subordinates to follow its lead; it does not force them to. If you get mad at your dog, or angry or furious, you've lost the alpha position. Dogs do not understand fury. You have to be calm and focused. You must teach them the command and show them what you want, and then expect that from them. Always show approval at signs of submission. Praise your dog when it drops its eyes first. Praise it when it licks you under the chin. Give it an enthusiastic tummy rub when it rolls over on its back. Be consistent and fair in your corrections. You must demonstrate to your dog that it can trust your orders. 

Do not ever correct the dog after the fact 

Such corrections appear to be arbitrary and unfair to the dog, because it has no associative memory the way people do. If your dog is still a puppy, socializing it is a good way to gain its trust. If you decide that some action requires correction, *always* give a correction when you see that action. For example, if you decide that your dog is not allowed on the sofa, then *always* correct it when you see it on the sofa. Consistency can be a big challenge with a family. Every family member must agree on the basic ground rules with the dog; when and for what it should be corrected, what commands to use and so on. Families must cooperate extensively to avoid confusing the dog. It is best if only one person “actively” trains the dog but all must participate; thereafter if the commands are given the same way, everyone in the family can use them. Finally, always use the minimum correction necessary. If a sharp AH-AH will do, use that rather than an alpha roll. If a pop under the chin will do, use that rather than a scruff shake.

Correct the dog's challenges

Especially during adolescence, your dog may test and/or challenge your position. Do not neglect to correct this behavior. You don't need to come down like a ton of bricks; just making it clear you don't tolerate the behavior is sufficient. BE FIRM! For example, don't let your dog crowd you through the door, don't let him jump out of the car until you've given him permission, don't let him jump for food in your hand. Don't let him ignore commands that he knows.

Learn how to display alpha behavior

You may not need to use all of these, but you should be familiar with them. They are listed in "escalating" order. Do not use any of these if you are angry or upset. The point is never to hurt the dog, but to show it who is alpha. They work best if you are calm, firm, and matter of fact. Again, always use the minimum correction necessary. More important than knowing how to perform an alpha roll is learning to play the alpha role. That means having the attitude of "I-am-always-right-and-I-will-never-let-my-dog-willfully-disobey-me" without ever becoming angry or giving up. Picture a small two-year old toddler. You're not in a struggle over who's "Mom" but over what the child is allowed to do, and there's a crucial difference in the two.

Using an alpha roll on a dog that is already submissive but disobeys because it doesn't know what is expected of is destructive to the relationship between you and the dog. Likewise, using an alpha role on a dominant dog but not using any other positive reinforcements can alienate it. Most dogs never need to be alpha rolled in their lives. Furthermore, alpha rolls are one of the strongest weapons in dominance arsenal. Save it for the gravest of infractions. Being dominant is no substitute for learning to read and understand your dog. Proper obedience (which should be a part of any dog's life, even when "only" a pet) is a two way street and requires you to be as responsible to your dog as your dog is responsive to you.

There are a number of ways in demonstrating dominance:

Timeouts: put the dog on a down stay or if not yet trained to do so, lay the dog on its back and hold it there for a while once the dog stops struggling you can then let it up. This is often surprisingly effective, since dogs are such social creatures.

Eye contact: alphas "stare down" subordinates. If your dog does not back down in a stare contest, start a verbal correction. As soon as it backs down, praise it.

Taps under the chin: alpha dogs nip subordinates under the chin as corrections. You can use this by tapping your dog under the chin with your fingers. Don't tap on top of the muzzle, not only can you risk injuring your dog's sense of smell, you may make him hand-shy.

Grabbing under the ears: alpha dogs will chomp under subordinate dogs' ears and shake. You can mimic this by holding the skin under your dog's ears firmly and shaking. Again, do not use excessive force. Do this just enough to get the point across. DO NOT grab the top of the neck and shake. You may injure your dog this way.

Insist on decorous behavior

Feed your dog after your own dinner. Make him lay down while you are eating rather than beg at your lap. Don't let it crowd through a doorway ahead of you. Don't let it hop out of the car until you say OK. There are a variety of small things you can do that assert your dominance in a non-traumatic way. If you're clever about it, you can use them to get a well-behaved dog (one that doesn't shoot out of the front door or scramble out of the car or beg at the table). In particular, putting a behavior that the dog wants to do on hold until you say OK is a very good way to be the alpha and keep the dog well behaved.

Make sure your dog obeys everyone in your family

This is a fairly important point. If your dog seems to have trouble obeying a particular family member, you must make sure it does so, by always backing up the family member when he or she tells the dog to do something. If the family member seems to be afraid of the dog, or is very young, then you should supervise all interaction until the problem is resolved.

For adults to use in advanced socializing and training only!

Aggression with other Dogs

Dogs can be aggressive with other dogs, especially if they have not been properly socialized with other dogs in puppy-hood. Sometimes a dog that is naturally dominant has trouble with other dogs especially in puberty. Sometimes a dog has a specific experience (e.g. a dogfight with another aggressive dog) that causes it to become aggressive toward other dogs in general as well. Whatever the reason, it is well worth your time working on your dog's aggression toward other dogs. You will probably get the best results, especially with a problem dog -- extreme aggression, for example -- if you contact a local trainer (preferably one that specializes in problem dogs) for individual help. However, there are some common-sense things you can do.

First, a bit of basic dog psychology: friendly behaviors include moving side by side, sniffing butts, tails wagging at body level (not up high or over the back). Not-friendly behaviors include meeting face-to-face when approaching, ears forward and tail over back.

Force them into friendly behaviors as follows: walk the dogs in parallel on leash. They should be close enough to see each other but not close enough to snap at or touch each other. Be careful when you two turn that the dogs don't tangle. Make sure one doesn't get ahead of the other: keep them parallel. Keep this up until they relax. Slowly start walking closer together as behavior permits.

Hold one dog on leash in a sit. Have food treats and a water bottle handy. Walk the other dog toward it, to about six feet, and then turn away (increase the distance if the sitting dog snarls). The idea is to turn away *before* the sitting dog shows any aggression. If the dog shows no aggression, reward it with a food tidbit or verbal praise. Do NOT touch the dog (stand on the leash or tie it down). If it does growl, spray it with water. Switch the dogs so that each experiences sitting or walking toward. They are learning that good things happen without defensive behavior. As they improve, start walking a bit closer before turning. If the sitting dog snarls, do NOT turn the other dog away: the person with the sitting dog should correct it and when the dog subsides, THEN the moving dog should turn away.

Finally, holding the head of one dog, but allowing it to stand, have the other dog investigate its rear briefly. This is really the extreme extension of the above. These exercises have several purposes. One is to force the dogs to consider themselves friendly by engaging in the behavior of friendly dogs. The other is to teach both dogs that an approaching dog is not necessarily grounds for aggression.

This will take a lot of work, probably over a couple of months, but they will work, and what's more, should reduce tensions with other dogs as well (i.e., not only between the two specific dogs in the exercises). If you still have issues with an aggressive dog, contact your breeder for additional help.

Dogs Attention seeking

Attention-seeking behaviour in dogs are often shown in puppyhood initially, when care soliciting from a parent and the need to play and interact with littermates is quite normal of course.

But once they are grown up more and have established more adult relationships with their owners, as well as other dogs, jumping up, pawing, barking or dropping a toy into a lap uninvited and other demands for interaction are not always seen as being cute or fun all the time. However, such demands are often nonetheless inevitably rewarded with the owner’s full attention - a cuddle, a game, and verbal chat in that voice we reserve for babies and puppies and so these behaviours are reinforced, learned and maintained perhaps long after they should have naturally been lost or used more sparingly in social encounters by dogs when older!

Dogs value human attention throughout their lives - especially from their owners, on whom they dote, but clearly also need to learn to become more functionally independent and less constantly dependent on us. There’s nothing wrong with giving attention to our dogs, of course. After all, what’s the point of having a dog if you’re going to spend the entire time ignoring your best friend?! But if you reward behaviour in a puppy continuously and don’t help him to learn to be less dependent on direct contact when he is in your company and to develop his own independent interests, all that attention demanding can become a real nuisance when he’s fully grown, and does nothing to help him develop into a more restrained and contented adult.

For example, if an eight-week-old Newfoundland pup jumps up at you for attention or when you feed him, it’s all pretty harmless. But if that same dog as a three-year-old heavy hairy monster jumps up, he could easily dangerously floor a child or elderly person, or even a strong adult. Equally in a smaller dog, nudging or pawing for your attention as a pup can start off as being very cute but if your adult dog does it over and over again, whenever you are busy and unable to give him attention, it can become very annoying indeed.

In all cases, giving the demanding dog the attention he’s seeking will stop the behaviour only briefly. The moment you turn your focus to something else, it will be repeated again… and again. Pushing your dog away or giving any other negative response, even telling him off, will be equally unsuccessful, as it all still involves giving him some attention. From a dog’s viewpoint, anything is better than nothing, so even such negative attention is valued.

The key, then, is to ignore the attention-seeking, and to reward good manners instead. So if he nudges you for a pat or uses another attention-seeking behaviour, ignore him. Don’t look at him, speak to him or touch him. Completely ignore him and get up calmly and walk away if he persists (as he often will, initially). Instead, when he is quietly undemanding - perhaps busy with a chew toy, or watching the world go by in his bed, call him to you and give him a fuss. This establishes that lots of attention is available but mainly at your behest, not his.

Safety must come first, of course. If your dog’s attention-seeking involves stealing something forbidden and running off with it, assess any dangers. Dogs learn what will quickly get us leaping from our seats, eager to chase them for their prize. Generally, the more prized or dangerous the object, the more intense our reaction - and the dog will soon learn seek out such objects again in the future! If your dog has run off with something that could harm him, you have to remove the item from him. But make sure it doesn’t happen again by keeping all scissors, remote controls, shoes and other ‘stealable’ items out of reach if your dog seeks attention through theft! That way, you won’t reinforce the behaviour by ‘playing’ chase!

Do be aware that nuisance attention-seeking will generally get worse before it gets better when you try to treat it. If you ignore your dog when previously you’ve given him your attention for a particular behaviour, your dog will become frustrated as to why he is no longer able to elicit what he thought was a predictable response from you. So he’ll do what he knows more intensively and nudge harder, or bark louder, or jump higher to get your attention. Be strong and ignore all his attempts, or walk away as required or you’ll soon be back to square one!

If the nuisance attention seeking continues despite your best efforts, do seek professional help from a behaviourist via a veterinary referral. It could be that there is an underlying reason for the behaviour, such as intense insecurity, which will need delicate handling and a broader approach to your dog’s social husbandry.

The information contained in this article is not a substitute for individual veterinary or behavioural advice and is for information purposes only. You should always consult a veterinary surgeon if you have any concerns about your pet’s health. He or she will be able to take a complete medical history and physically examine your pet, to then recommend appropriate individual advice or treatment options. For detailed behavioural advice tailored specifically for your pet, we recommend that you contact a qualified pet behaviourist. For further details of local canine and feline behaviourists practising in your area and how they offer help for with problem pets, please contact The Coape Association of Pet Behaviourists and Trainers at the Association of Pet Dog Trainers at http://alldog360.blogspot.com/ Do bear in mind that while dog trainers can take you on as a client directly, pet behaviourists will always require a referral from your veterinary surgeon.

Signs That Your Dog May Not Be Treating

Are you guilty of doing or allowing any of the following? (Definite no, nos, especially if you have a dog that tends to be aggressive.) These things may seem harmless or insignificant to you, but they mean lots to a dog.

1. Does he growl, snarl or snap at you if you try to move him? 

2. Did you give him lots of treats, love, hugs, talking in nice tones even though he was doing nothing but lying there looking cute? 

3. Does he sit on the sofa? Perhaps you let him have a nice comfy spot on your bed! 

4. Does he lay in walkways blocking your way? Maybe instead of making him move, did you step over him? 

5. Have there been times you have called him to come, or told him to sit, and he ignored you, and you did nothing about it? 

6. Did you ever play tug of war, and let him win and play with the toy afterward? 

7. Are all members of your family in agreement and consistent with the same method of training?

8. Do you allow him to circle you or excessively lick you?

9. Do you let him have some scraps from the table?

10. Do you let your dog enter the door, gate, car, before you?

11. Do you open the door for your dog when he scratches to be let in?

12. Do you automatically pet your dog when he paws at you or nudges you with his nose?

13. Do you comfort him and pet him and say “It’s Okay” when he barks at company?

If you answered yes to any of these questions, the dog is misbehaving or even shows aggression because he mistakenly thinks he is the Alpha dog in your house, or he is in conflict because you are sending him mixed messages. What may be clear to you can be completely confusing to your dog. You may unknowingly be sending conflicting messages to your dog, whereby he will then make up his own mind.

Answers to Survey:

1. A dog should never be allowed to show even the slightest hint of aggression. If your dog displays that type of behavior, he should receive the highest form of discipline. If you are unable to do this with confidence, perhaps a muzzle is for you. All you have to do is win a couple of disputes and it won’t be an issue any more. If you are in doubt about how to administer a proper correction, seek the advice of a professional. 

2. You can give him all the love you want, just make him earn it. Make him earn everything before you give him any affection or food (for example, make him sit before you pet him, or before you give him his food, or let him in the house.) He must rely on you for everything.

3. As a general rule, your dog should never sit on the sofa or bed. Occasionally there are exceptions to the rule with the more docile dogs. However, in the dog world, the dog that is lying equal to your level or higher up is the Alpha dog. You always want to be at least a head above your dog.

4. Make your dog moves if he is in your way. Do not step over him or go around him.

5. Never give a command you know you can’t or won’t enforce. Enforce every command. Make him obey on the first command. Do not repeat, or make your command sound like a request or a question. If you give him an option, he will ignore you. It takes getting away with something just once for him to challenge your authority.

6. Never play tug-of-war with an aggressive dog. It kicks in their instinct to compete and challenge. If you allow your dog to win a tug-of-war and take the toy off to a corner, as far as he is concerned, that is his prize, his kill, and he may challenge you if you try to take it from him. If you do play tug-of-war, you must always win in the end.

7. All members of the family should be consistent with training. All humans are above your dog. He must respect all members of your family. He must like who you like.

8. Circling and excessive licking are signs of dominance, however passive it may seem to you. An occasional kiss is acceptable but you must stop excessive licking. If he is circling you or your guests, cut him off. To the dog, that is like “herding his flock”. 

9. Never feed him scrapes from the table. Try to feed yourself before you feed your dogs. If that is not practical, he can only eat when you give him permission to eat.

10. Doors and gates are very significant to dogs. To them it means, “whoever goes through the door first is leader”. You always go through doors first, or give them permission to go ahead of you.

11. Do not open the door for your dog when he scratches to be let in. He is giving you orders when he does that. When you open the door for him, it re-enforces bad behavior. Either ignore him until he stops, then let him in, or, make it your idea. Go to the door, make him sit and then invite him in. Do not let him come in as soon as the door is opened. He must wait to be invited.

12. If your dog wants to be pet by nudging you with his nose or pawing at you, ignore him, or at the very least, make him do something to earn that attention, otherwise you will have a pest on your hands.

13. When you try to calm a dog down while he is growling or barking by petting him and saying “It’s okay”, you are reinforcing that bad behavior. In his mind, you are encouraging him to continue. Never pet a dog that is growling or barking. 

HELPFUL HINTS

Dogs show love by showing respect, and you can do things to gain your dogs respect, and thereby his trust.

MOST IMPORTANT— Exercise, Exercise, Exercise. About 50% of his interaction with you should be some form of working off excess energy. A minimum of ½ hr. walk, chasing the ball, training, playing—whatever it takes to tire him out. It also puts you in the leadership role and builds a bond between you and your dog. Exercise also releases endorphins to relax him so he is not so uptight. When walking, swing your arms naturally. If your dog is not in a heel position then he should be walking freely behind you or beside you. That is a sign of respect. 

Next, you give boundaries and limitations. Show what is acceptable in your world and what is not and enforce them always. Never let anything slide, or your dog will constantly test you.

If you remain calm and assertive, your dog will be calm and submissive. Dogs do not follow emotional or affectionate leaders. They follow calm, confident leaders. 

After you have exercised, done some sort of leadership activities--then you can share affection. Always in this order: exercise, discipline, affection.

You are doing your dog a favor by taking away the responsibility for him to make decisions. You must make all decisions for your dog. Your dog should always look to you for guidance.

You decide when playtime starts and when it is over. 

Remember: You cannot impose human feelings and thoughts on your dog. They do not reason like humans. They rely on their instincts, smell, body language and energy. 

Timing is crucial when correcting your dog. You must catch him in the act, or you must deter his bad behavior BEFORE it escalates. You must break his concentration and redirect. This can be done by touch, sound, body language, a pop on the collar, a strong “watch” command—whatever works. When you give a correction, do not get mad or emotional. You correct, the dog submits, then let it go. You walk away. Do not let the dog walk away from you. If he wants to go hide and cool off, that’s fine, but you must be the one to dismiss.

If Your Dog is Aggressive:

Take him to the vet to rule out the possibility of a health problem. 

Neutering will usually help calm an aggressive dog, especially the males. Get him neutered before he establishes bad behaviors and they become a habit.

With an aggressive dog, look for a lower protein diet. High protein may give your dog too much energy. There are low protein dog foods that are healthy. Do not feed chicken or lamb. Some dogs are sensitive and may have a negative reaction.

If your dog is nervous or aggressive, perhaps you might want to try a natural herb called Rescue Remedy. Rescue Remedy is most often used for emergencies or stressful situations. Helps replace panic with control. Restores focus and clean head when dazed. Helps clam and restore sense of peace, neutralizes the effects of trauma. The good thing is there are no side effects, it does not drug your dog, it does not change his personality, it does not interfere with other medications. You can buy it at health food stores. It works on some dogs, and some it does not. If you give it to him on a treat, it usually takes effect within 15 minutes. 

Stop dog from nudging all the time

He is a one year old golden retriever. When I stop patting him, he nudges me really hard and continuously with his big bet nose until I pat him again. It's really annoying! How I get him to stop? Thanks! =}

I also have a couple of nudgers here. I find the best thing to do is just fold your arms across your chest and turn away from the dog. Don't give him any eye contact whatsoever. Your body language will soon tell him that he's fighting a losing battle with you and he will eventually just walk away and go and lie down.

He is doing it purely for attention. The more you give in and keep patting him the worse he'll get.

I will allow this behaviour for a while but when it starts to get irritating then I put the above plan into action and it works every time.

You pet the dog on your terms not his. Once this nudging gets out of hand the dog becomes a nuisance and ceases to be a pleasure so start now and let him see that his behaviour is unacceptable. You will gain his respect a lot more quickly rather than allow it to go on and on and then get annoyed with him. 

Once he is lying down quietly then you can give him one of his toys or a bone to chew to keep him occupied.

Why do men like dogs and girls like cats?

I know there will be exceptions... but this is what I notice normally. Is it something to do with our sex or what?

Think of a stereotyped couple from the ages when these animals were domesticated (BC).

The man is masculine and adventurous. Strong and brave and his family depend on him.

The woman is feminine, housebound and must depend on their nearest male relative.

The typical dog is adventurous, strong and brave. And can also follow it's owner outside the house.

The typical cat stays in the house or around the area it knows. Domesticated cats aren't very good hunters but dogs can be trained to hunt. A cat depends on it's family for food and housing (supposably like women) and a dog can hunt it's own food for it's family and itself.

Generally we prefer the people who we share common factors with, so women have always seen their commodities with cats and men with dogs.

A dog is a "man's best friend" afterall.

Why Female Dogs Hump

Girl Dogs and Humping

It is true that female dogs are less likely to hump than are male dogs, but they do practice the habit from puppy-hood well into adulthood. Some people find the behavior cute; when a female dog grabs hold of Uncle Ben's leg and starts going to town. In almost every single case, the person being accosted is NOT going to find the encounter humorous or entertaining at all. It is rude, unacceptable, and an absolute doggy NO-NO!

Humping in Dogs

My top 5 reasons why female dogs hump are listed below. Being able to identify which may be afflicting your dog can help prevent doggy humping from occurring at the most inopportune times!

How to Stop Female Dog Humping Behavior - Modification Technique

Why The Top Dog Always Feeds the Pack 

When one person is being singled out for humping, the dog is directly challenging that person for a ranking pack position. To resolve this behavior, this person should be the only human to feed the dog for at least a full month. When the dog realizes that she must rely solely on this person for food, her challenge will simply end along with the dominant humping behavior toward this person.

5 Reasons Your Female Dog is Humping

There are many reasons why dogs hump. The list here presents the top 5 causes that in my experience, have female dogs in a "Wednesday"* kind of mood.

To express dominance over a person or thing

To express dominance over litter or pack mates

To feel stimulation on a sexual level

To relieve irritated genitals

Because it Has become an addiction

These 5 reasons will be discussed and a couple of behavior modification techniques will be provided to help curb the need your canine bitch has for humping.

* "hump-day" reference

Dominant Female Dogs Want it Their Way

A dominant bitch will want to have the final say in how she travels. But it is up to you to keep her safe. No doggy heads outside of car windows!

1. Female Dogs Express Dominance Over a Person or Thing

Does Humping Mean My Dog Thinks She is the Boss?

In a word, yes. The practice of canine humping gives the term "top dog" real meaning. When a female dog humps a person or thing, it can be to claim the dominant position or ranking over said person or thing. Even as humping is an inherent behavior in all dogs, the action can manifest from stress, anxiety, emotional outbursts, or as an invitation to start playing. How each encounter of humping begins depends entirely on the dog's emotional status when the event is triggered.

Dog to Human Dominance Must be Stopped!

It is important to know that should your female dog (or any dog) practice "humping for dominance" on humans, it must be resolved and discontinued promptly. The dog has to respect that ALL humans are the dominant pack member and "top dog" in every situation and at all times. This status is never to be challenged by the K9 (including children). If your dog is acting out in this manner—humping one particular member of the family—an immediate behavior modification is in order. To discover one effective way to show your dog that all humans are, in fact, the dominant pack member, read the blue highlighted area at above right titled, "How to Stop Female Dog Humping - Behavior Modification Technique".

About Disciplining a Dog

Deference: humble submission and respect.

It is never good practice to assert your pack rank in a physically or emotionally painful manner. Deference is the way of the canine, and as the ranking pack member, you must lead with this is mind.

Synonyms: respect - regard - esteem - reverence - obeisance

Female Dogs Hump to Express Dominance Over Litter or Pack Mates

Puppy Socialization and Humping

When a female puppy humps a litter mate, it can be for a couple of reasons. First, it is clear that puppies really like to play, and humping—being inherent in all dogs—is just part of that play experience.

Second, humping helps puppies to orient sexual behavior for adulthood. It teaches them the interactions, appropriate techniques, and dominant placement for later breeding.

Both of these tactics are needed for a female pup to become a well socialized bitch, and with proper occurrence and timing, is it vital in sustaining the successful reproduction of the species.

Healthy vs Unhealthy Humping Behavior in Puppies 

Even as humping has its place in the development of well-adjusted dogs, it can become an obsession if allowed to deviate from normal social behavior. If you recognize that a puppy is becoming too captivated by the behavior, you must divert her attention to something else. This is done simply by interrupting the obsession with a toy, task commands, or other attention grabber. Avoid being too harsh with your corrections, and keep it fun for the puppy. After all is said and done, you don't want to create a new negative behavior while curbing another.

Never take a female dog who is in heat to the dog park! This can cause a frenzy of miss behavior among normally obedient dogs.

Source: k9keystrokes

Female Dogs Hump to Feel Stimulation on a Sexual Level

Female Dogs Hump Because it Feels Good

This should not be too surprising; female dogs hump because they like the way it feels. This would seem more likely attributed to male dogs, because humping is considered a sexually dimorphic1 behavior, when in actuality it is regularly seen in both sexes. When female dogs come into heat, the behavior can quickly become a 'hump-palooza' throughout the pack, resulting in everyone humping someone or something.Dog parks, for our domesticated pets, can replace this pack mentality in a flash. Should a single female show up at the dog park while in heat, an almost instant change in dog dynamics is sure to take place. Caution in such situations should be taken, as fights resulting in injury can occur (to dogs as well as their humans). Also, with this frenzy of behavior "Fee-fee" may just have some explaining to do 63 days later when a few new puppy muzzles show up at the pet food dish!

1Sexual dimorphism is the difference in morphology between male and female members of the same species. Sexual dimorphism includes differences in size, coloration, or body structure between the sexes. Most noticeably seen in the fact that a male lion has a mane, whereas a female does not.

What You Think Really Does Matter!

Have you been the victim of, or a witness to, a human being humped by a dog?

Yes. It is a very rude behavior!

No. But, I have heard from people who have, and they did not like it.

My dog humps people all of the time, it is hilarious!

My dog humps and I just can't break her of the habit. Help!

Don't have a dog in my house for this reason. Not worth the risk of this kind of embarrassment!

Female Dogs Hump to Relieve Irritated Genitals

Dogs Hump Because Stuff Gets Itchy

If your girl dog is suffering from an irritation in her genital area, humping may result as a way to soothe the problem. The issue that can accompany this particular cause is, in some cases, that by conducting the soothing (humping) action, the results can end in obsessive compulsive behavior (OCD). Here's why: Should irritation in the genital region go unrecognized and untreated, it can turn into a serious problem for the dog physically and emotionally. It can become a circle of never ending bad behavior—the irritation makes things itchy, the dog humps to resolve the itch, pleasure replaces the itching, the dog's brain gets looped into relating the pleasurable feeling with the humping, and the whole thing runs full circle over-and-over again. The only way to fix this is to treat the physical ailment, and then break the OCD habit over time. A good old fashioned Water-Bottle-of-Obedience (a squirt bottle full of water) may be helpful in redirecting the dog's attention elsewhere.

OCD is not uncommon among retrieving breeds of dogs; fetching until they drop is an indicator. These same female dogs can become addicted to humping quite easily.

Source: K9keystrokes

Female Dogs Hump Because it Has Become an Addiction

My Female Dog has a Humping Addiction; Time for Rehab!

Just like any other reason a being would become addicted to something, dogs get addicted to humping because it makes their brain pump out chemicals that say, "Yowza! This is great stuff!" Spaying your dog is unlikely to stop the addiction, but it can reduce the craving because of the "reproductive" nature of the act. Less hormones screaming, "breed!" toyour female dog can certainly give you an edge in rehabilitating her.

Below you will find four behavior modifications that may help to rehabilitate your female dog's humping addiction. This takes time, so enlisting your highest degree of patience is recommended.

Modification Techniques for Female Dogs That Habitually Hump

Avoid mean spirited or harsh correction techniques. In such instances a gentle hand will bring greater success and in a shorter amount of time.

Teach your addicted dog 'task' commands; sit, stay, seek, fetch, settle, hunt for the toy—or anything else that she likes to do.

When the humping behavior rears its ugly head, use the task commands to divert her attention.

A squirt bottle filled with water can surprise a dog into discontinuing her humping. This should be done from a distance, creating an 'act of God' diversion. Your dog will associate the discomfort and startling strike of water to an unknown source, which brings a fast behavior revising result. (The bonus is that the discipline is not related to you in any way, but is considered an 'act of God' to your dog.)

Wrapping It All Up

When your female dog has become fixated on humping, it can become embarrassing to say the least. Curbing the behavior through diversion, calm respectful dominant leadership, and maybe a squirt or two of liquid Behavior-Modification can turn the situation into a thing of the past.

No matter the modification technique you employ, if the behavior continues regardless of your efforts, it is important to check in with your vet. The humping habit may contain an underlying cause that only your veterinarian can detect and treat effectively!

Calories (protein and fat energy) Found in Animal Meats For Dogs

(click column header to sort results)

FOOD SOURCES (3.5oz /100g)	ENERGY (calories / kcals)	PROTEIN (grams)	FAT (grams)	CARBOHYDRATE (grams)
Chicken Meat	121	20.5	4.3	0
Chicken meat with skin	230	17.6	17.7	0
Duck meat	122	19.7	19.7	0
Duck meat with skin	430	11.3	42.7	0
Lean beef	123	20	4.6	0
Lamb	162	21	9	0
Pork	147	20.7	7	0
Turkey without skin	107	22	2.2	0
Venison	198	35	6.4	0
Rabbit	124	22	4	0
Tripe	6	9.4	2.5	0
Cod	76	17.4	0.7	0
Herring	234	17	18.5	0
Egg	47	12.5	11	Trace amounts

Calculations derived from Dr. Bruce Fogle's book on "Natural Dog Care".