How to Choose the Right Dog for You

Are you thinking of getting a dog? Choosing to bring a new dog into your life is a major decision. Be sure you are ready for a dogbefore you start the process. It is also essential that you understand the cost of dog ownership. If you have decided that the time is right, congratulations! Now it is time to figure out what type of dog is right for you. There are several factors to consider before choosing a dog. Most importantly, examine your current lifestyle and consider what adjustments you are willing to make for a dog. Look at the needs of your family – especially if you have children or other pets. People with allergies, or those who prefer low-shedding dogs, might want to look into hypoallergenic dog breeds. Next, think about the ideal size, energy level and age of your new dog. Then, determine where to get your new dog. Just remember that getting a dog requires a firm commitment to responsible dog ownership. Here are some tips to help you choose the best dog for you and your family.

Size

You may already know you want a little lap dog that you can carry around. Or, you might have your heart set on a large or giant dog breed. If you cannot decide, then perhaps a medium sized dog is a good choice.

Remember that some small dogs are delicate and vulnerable. Being stepped on or mishandled can cause serious injury. Also, little dogs can be much more sensitive to colder temperatures, so be ready to help keep them warm. Don’t forget that small dogs need obedience training too! Some little dogs can develop “tough dog” attitudes, seemingly to compensate for their small size. Be sure you are prepared for this possibility.

Very large dogs need a bit more space to move around. Big, happy dogs with long, whip-like tails need "wagging space" to avoid tail injury or damage to household objects. Another consideration is expense: the larger the dog, the more expensive things like dog food, dog supplies and medical treatments become. Training is also a key factor here. If you get a large or giant breed puppy that is allowed to act like a lap dog when young, he will grow up to walk all over you – literally!

Activity Level

You probably already know that some dogs have more energy than others. A dog’s activity level is often determined by breed, but it does not mean you can rely on breed alone to determine how energetic your dog could become. Every dog needs routine exercise, regardless of breed or size, so make sure you can to provide this. If you know you can not commit to more than one or two casual walks per day, then you will probably be better off with a lower energy dog, such as a Basset Hound. If you are looking for a dog that can be a jogging partner, agility competitor or “disc dog,” consider a breed like the Border Collie.

Be willing to adjust the amount of exercise and attention you give your dog if necessary. A dog that is barking constantly, digging up your yard, destroying your home, or acting out in some other way is most likely in need of extra activities. Manybehavior problems are the result of excess energy. Unfortunately, many dogs are given up or even euthanized because of a behavior problem that could have easily been avoided with the proper amount of exercise and attention.

Physical Maintenance

Your dog’s appearance has a lot to do with his maintenance needs. All dogs need basic grooming, but certain types need more based on the type of hair coat. If you get a dog with hair that keeps growing, then advanced routine grooming is essential. Most short haired, smooth-coated dogs are major shedders, so be prepared to do some extra cleaning up. Somegrooming tools can help reduce shedding. Be aware that dogs with long, floppy ears are more prone to ear infections and require frequent thorough ear cleanings. In addition, certain types of dogs can do a lot of drooling. Many owners of Mastiffs, Bloodhounds and similar dogs actually carry a “slobber cloth” with them to wipe the drool. If they shake their heads – watch out!

Age

Puppies require the greatest amount of training and attention, especially over the first six months. Be prepared to dedicate much of your time to housebreaking and raising your new puppy. You dog will likely have plenty of accidents in the house and will probably chew your furniture and personal belongings. These problems will gradually resolve with dedicated training, but patience is a must. You should also be aware that your puppy might grow up to be different then you expected, especially if you adopt a mixed-breed dog. This is not necessarily a bad thing, just something to keep in mind.

Adult dogs can be an excellent choice. An adult might be a better choice if you want to have a good idea of the true energy level, attitude, and temperament of your new dog. However, just because the dog is an adult does not mean he is trained, so you should still expect some degree of dedicated training at first. Fortunately, many adult dogs have been trained and socialized to some degree and can easily adjust to their new lives in their forever homes.

Senior dogs should not be forgotten! Welcoming a senior dog into your home can be a wonderful way to bring joy to the golden years of a dog. Unfortunately, senior dogs are less likely to be adopted and often end up living out their lives in shelters or being euthanized. A senior dog can make a wonderful companion if you are looking for a lower energy dog. However, it is important to know that your senior dog needs special attention, more frequent veterinary check-ups and is more likely to develop heath problems that cost time and money to address. Unlike a puppy or adult dog, you must know that you will not have as many years with your senior dog. If you are willing to accept the responsibilities, consider adopting a senior dog. It can be one of the most compassionate things you can do for these precious creatures.

Purebred or Mixed-Breed Dog?

Purebred dogs are undeniably popular. Many people are attracted to a specific dog breed for various reasons. Perhaps you were raised around the breed or have spent a lot of time with the breed in your life. Maybe you really love the way a certain breed looks and acts. Or, you might feel the breed is right for you based upon what you have read or heard about the breed. If you want a purebred dog, be sure you thoroughly research the breed. Determine if you are willing to take on potential challenges with temperament, grooming needs and health problems. Make sure the breed will fit in with your family and lifestyle – including other dogs.

Mixed breed dogs can become wonderful additions to your world. The combination of two or more dog breeds can often balance out their personalities and physical characteristics. Just be sure to expect the unexpected, especially if you adopt a “pound puppy.” There is no way of knowing exactly how your puppy will look when grown up, and you cannot really predict health problems. However, many experts believe that mixed-breed dogs end up with fewer health problems than purebred dogs. Overall they tend to be good-natured and intelligent. Plus, adopting a mixed-breed dog usually means you are saving that dog from euthanasia or a lonely shelter life!

Where to Find Your New Dog

Once you have narrowed down your options, it is time to start looking for your new dog. There are many options out there, but some are better than others. Research the organization or person from whom you will get your new dog to determine if they are reputable. Then, go see the location where the dogs are kept to make sure your new dog comes from a healthy environment. Please consider dog adoption first. Here are some sources to help get you started.

Animal Shelters: These can be great places to look for a new dog. Though lots of dogs in shelters are mixed-breed dogs, many times you can even find a purebred dog! Shelter dogs often have previous training and socialization, though others may unfortunately come from troubled backgrounds. Talk to the shelter staff members and volunteers about each dog you are considering to get an idea of background and personality. You can also try searching online adoption sites like Petfinder.com.

Rescue Organizations: Rescue groups are dedicated to finding the best families for homeless dogs, some are even devoted to specific dog breeds. Most rescue organizations keep their dogs in foster homes until they can find forever homes for them. These foster parents have usually forged a bond with the dogs and can tell you a lot about their history and personalities. Rescue organizations are typically very selective because they care so much about getting their dogs into the right homes, so be prepared to answer a lot of questions.

Reputable Breeders: If you choose to purchase a purebred dog, be certain you find a knowledgeable,experienced breeder with a good reputation – not abackyard breeder or puppy mill. Ask your vet and other dog owners for referrals, or get a referral from a rescue organization recommended by a national kennel club, such as the AKC Breeder Referral Contacts. A responsible breeder should be willing to show you the premises and tell you about the parents’ histories. Be certain that the breeder’s home or kennel is clean and odor-free. The adult dogs and puppies should appear healthy and lively. If you are not comfortable with the breeder, do not purchase a puppy.

Precautionary Notes

Please, do not purchase your dog from a pet store. Tragically, these dogs are often frompuppy mills. Though you might be “saving” the dog from poor conditions, you are supporting a terrible industry that should be put to an end. Some online kennels are actually puppy mills too, so do your research before doing business with an online kennel. Ideally, you should be able to visit the kennel first.

Be careful about getting your dog through newspaper ads and signs with statements like “free to a good home.” Unfortunately, these dogs might come from poor conditions and irresponsible dog owners. Not only might you end up with an unhealthy dog, you may also be encouraging inconsiderate people who do not spay and neuter their pets.

Making Your Final Decision

Once you think you have found the right dog, make sure he appears healthy. He should be bright eyed and lively with a shiny coat and good appetite. If the puppy or dog has special needs of some kind (usually due to physical or temperament issues), make sure you are prepared to handle them. Be aware that dogs or puppies that show signs of aggression, fear or other behavior problems will likely need extra training and attention from you. It does not mean that the dog is any less worthy of a good home, but it is best that you know what you are getting into. It is certainly not good for anyone if you have to return your new dog or puppy to the breeder, shelter or rescue group.

Before bringing your new dog home, you should obtain a new dog/puppy packet from the breeder or adoption group that contains general information about caring for your new dog. Make sure your home is prepared for a new dog. In addition, be sure to bring your new dog to a vet for a general examination right away. If you adopted your dog, know what to expect for the first few weeks. If you are getting a puppy, learn all about proper puppy care.

Congratulations on your new dog - I am sure you and your dog will enjoy a long, happy life together!

Take Care of Puppies

You've finally received what you've been wanting for a long time - a brand new, beautiful and adorable puppy!! But the question is, "How can I take care of my puppy?" If this question is somewhere in your mind, keep on reading for helpful tips on how to take care of and raise your puppy. Remember, this page is for people who have just adopted, purchased or found a new eight week old or older puppy. Pups are usually weaned at 8-weeks and it is unhealthy for them to be taken away from their mother before that age. When you get a puppy you should give the new pup as much attention as possible. If he/she has a training problem do not result into physical pain take them to training school. When they are out, play with them a lot and that`s how you take care of your puppy.

Bringing the Puppy Home

 

1 Make sure that the puppy you are getting is right for you. Does its coat suit your climate? Is it small enough to live in your apartment? Do its energy levels suit the amount of exercise it will get? These are all important questions to answer to ensure the well-being of your puppy and the overall happiness of your household.

2 Puppy-proof your house. Puppies love to explore with their mouths, so to keep your puppy and your house safe, you'll need to take a few precautions. Remove breakable items from the area where you plan to keep your puppy. Keep all electrical cords raised or covered and close all low windows. You should also lock away cleaning supplies/chemicals that are toxic to puppies. Get a trash can that is too tall for your puppy to get into and too heavy to be knocked over. Think about getting a folding gate to keep your puppy confined to a certain room or area.

3 Buy necessary supplies. The kitchen or bathroom is an ideal place for the bed because they generally are warm and have washable floors. Here is a list of things you'll need to get you started:

Two metal bowls. These are better than glass because they do not chip and stay cleaner. One for food and one for water. If you have other pets, be sure to give the puppy bowls to avoid conflict.

A puppy bed. Some options are: crate with a crate pillow, a snuggle nest, or a wicker basket with a lot of towels. Whatever you choose, make sure it is always soft, comfy, and dry. Also keep in hand for a blanket in case of cool weather. Make sure that your puppy has its own bed to avoid conflict with your other pets.

Toys. Your puppy will be a ball of boundless energy, so make sure you get plenty of toys. You should have chew toys and soft toys . Make sure the toys are indestructible, if not your pup can choke and die. Also remember that you should not give rawhide to pups as a toy. It's only for treats.

Puppy treats. Make sure you get a variety: Crunchy and soft. The soft will be good for training, and the crunchy will help clean teeth.

Puppy food: Do some research on dog food. Kibble, canned, home cooked, and feeding a raw diet are all options for a puppy. Make sure you buy a puppy food with no dyes or artificial flavors or preservatives in it as many dogs, like people, are allergic to these additives.

Basic grooming tools. Get a bristle brush, comb, rubber gloves, nail clippers, dog shampoo, dog conditioner, dog toothpaste, toothbrush, and towels.

A harness and tag. Get a nylon harness, and metal tag. It hurts their necks and can injure their throats. Remember when sizing the harness that puppies will grow.

4 Get the puppy comfortable in your home. It can be scary getting introduced to a new home for the first time, so make sure to give your puppy extra love and attention the first few days. Have your puppy sleep in your room at night so that they don't feel isolated or alone.

Take a blanket or dog bed to the breeder or pound from which you will pick up the puppy. Do this a few days before you pick up the puppy so that your new companion can sleep on the blanket and begin to get accustomed to your home before it even gets there.

Show your puppy around the house as soon as you bring him home. Let him walk in all the rooms and backyard.

5 Pet your puppy often. It's important to stroke your pet's body, legs, and head several times daily. This will help your puppy feel loved, as well as allow you to create a strong bond with your puppy.

6 Handle your puppy with care. Puppies, like human babies, are fragile. Gently scoop up your puppy if you need to pick it up, keeping one hand under its chest at all times.

7 Protect your puppy. Puppies are naturally curious, and even with the most attentive care they sometimes get out of the yard and get lost. Make sure your puppy wears a comfortable collar—fitted at about 5 weeks and loosened gradually to accommodate the puppy's growth—with a tag listing its name and your address and/or phone number. Many jurisdictions require licensing of dogs, but it's a good idea to get your puppy licensed even if it's not required. You can also have a tiny microchip implanted in your puppy to assist in locating it if it gets lost.

Provide a safe area for your puppy to play. A securely-fenced yard is ideal and experiment a little to find which toys he or she likes best.

Feeding

1 Choose your dog food. While it's tempting to go for the cheap stuff, this is generally not the best choice for your dog. Look for foods that incorporate high quality proteins from fish, chicken, lamb, and/or eggs. Also look for a way to feed your dogs fatty acids to keep its coat shiny and healthy. Generally, you'll want to feed your dogs a ratio of 5:1 omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids. This can come in your food or in supplements such as salmon oil especially designed to give to your dog. 

2 Feed your puppy properly. Feed your puppy small amounts of specially-formulated puppy food several times a day. Dry food is best as it cleans their teeth and lessens gum disease. The amount of food for each feeding depends on the breed; look up the recommended amounts for your specific breed. Feed your puppy only the smallest amount recommended for its breed, age, and size, and increase this if the puppy seems to be too thin or as directed by your veterinarian. The number of daily feedings depend on the puppy's age:

6-8 weeks: 4 times daily

12-20 weeks: 3 times daily

20+ weeks: 2 times daily

3 Avoid buffet-style feeding. While it may be easier for you to just throw out a bunch of food for your puppy to eat when hungry, this is not a healthy way to feed your dog. Dogs, especially puppies, will generally eat a lot of food if a lot is available; they don't stop just when they're full.

Make sure your puppy always has adequate fresh water available. Unlike food, you should leave a full bowl of fresh water out for your dogs at all times. Be aware that they're going to have to pee shortly after they drink large amounts of water. Take them outside so that they don't have accidents in your house.

4 Watch your puppy eat. Watching your puppy eat is a good way to gauge their health; if they seem uninterested in their food, something is wrong. In addition, feeding your puppy some of their food out of your hand and/or being extremely present during their feeding process will help better the puppy/owner bond.

5 Avoid harmful foods. It's tempting just to feed your puppy table scraps, but remember that human food can make your dog unhealthily obese. Even more serious, grapes, raisins, tea, alcohol, garlic, onions, avocados, salt, and chocolate, among other things, are toxic to your dog. If your dog has ingested one of these things, you should call the Animal Poison Control Center ((888).426.4435 in the US).

In addition to posing a serious health risk, feeding your dogs table scraps can train them to beg. Begging is one of the hardest habits to break. To ensure good health, only feed your dog food that is specifically designed for dogs and ignore them completely while you're eating at the table.

Health

1 Keep your puppy's environment safe. An unsafe or dirty environment can be detrimental to the well being of your puppy and can cost you a lot of money in veterinary bills.

Air out your puppy's bedding daily, and wash or replace it weekly. House-train your puppy when appropriate, and immediately replace your puppy's bedding if he or she has had an accident in it.

Get rid of harmful plants. There are a number of household plants that are actually toxic to puppies who like to chew. Keep lily of the valley, oleander, azalea, yew, foxglove, rhododendron, rhubarb, and shamrock far away from your puppy.

2 Make sure your puppy gets plenty of exercise. Different breeds require different amounts of exercise (this is a factor you should consider when choosing a puppy). As puppies' bodies are still developing, try to avoid any sort of rough play or strenuous exercise such as long (over 2 mile) runs. Take the puppy into the yard or garden after meals, and begin taking your puppy for short walks about a week after its second round of vaccinations.

Try to give your puppy about an hour of walk time a day, broken into 2 to 4 walks. Allow them to interact with other (friendly) dogs they meet (assuming your puppy has had its shots) and to leave scent markings. This is important for your dogs confidence, especially if he is a boy.

Socialize your puppy. Once vaccinated, puppies should be encouraged to play with friendly puppies, grown dogs, and other animals. Make sure the other animal tolerates the puppy well, and do not leave the animals alone for even a minute at first.

3 Schedule a visit to the vet. Choose a vet. Like with physicians, it's a good idea to ask your friends for vet recommendations. Get a few choices and visit each clinic. Find one that is friendly, well managed, and smells clean. Ask questions to the vet and the staff—they should always answer to the best of their ability. Be sure you feel comfortable with whichever vet you choose.

When your puppy is 6 to 9 weeks old, you'll want to take it to the vet to get vaccinated. Make sure you talk to your vet about distemper, parainfluenza, canine hepatitis, and parvovirus. They may have suggestions for other important vaccines as well, depending on the risks of your particular dog.

Make sure to get deworming medication during your first vet visit. This is not only a good idea for your puppy's health, but also for your own: many of the parasites that infect your puppy can be passed to humans and cause health problems in your family.

In addition to your first visit, you'll want to go to the vet when your puppy is 12 to 16 weeks old to get a rabies vaccination.

Begin thinking about whether you want to spay or neuter your dog. This is usually done when your dog is around 20 weeks old. Unless you foresee wanting to have puppies, it's a good idea to spay and neuter; thousands of unwanted puppies end up in pounds each year.

Schedule a vet check-up for your puppy at least every six months. Also, schedule vet appointments for the proper vaccinations. Teach your puppy that going to the vet is an enjoyable (or at least tolerable) experience by bringing treats with you while you are there.

4 Watch for health problems.Keep an eye on your puppy and you can catch any problems early. The eyes should be bright, and the eyes and nostrils should be free of discharge. The puppy's coat should be clean and shiny; watch out for matting or thinning. Watch out for bumps, inflammation, or rashes on the skin, as well as signs of diarrhea around the tail.

Grooming

1 Brush your puppy daily. Brushing keeps your pet clean and healthy and allows you to check its skin and fur for any problems. The type of brush and other grooming and washing requirements vary by breed, so check with your veterinarian or breeder for more information. Brush all over the puppy, including its belly and hind legs. Start when your puppy is young so that they are not afraid of the brush.

2 Trim your puppy's nails. Start clipping your puppy's nails early on to avoid Ask your vet to show you the proper nail cutting technique to use so you avoid hurting your puppy. Nails that are too long can cause strain to your dog's wrists as well as damage floors, furniture, and possibly people. Plan to trim your puppy's nails weekly unless directed otherwise by your vet.

3 Keep your puppy's teeth and gums healthy. Chew toys help a puppy keep its teeth healthy. Toothbrushes and toothpaste made specifically for dogs are also very helpful in keeping your pup's teeth clean and healthy. Be sure to acclimate your puppy to having their teeth brushed slowly so that it is a positive experience for them.

4 Only bathe your puppy once every 3 weeks or so. If they smell bad, use dog scent spray instead, and look into what could be causing the odor. Washing more than that can dry out dog skin and strip important oils from their coat.

Training

1 Housebreak your dog. Start housebreaking your dog the first day you bring it home. The longer you wait, the more mess you'll have to deal with, and the harder it will be to train your dog. Consider using training pads for the first few days. While these should not be used instead of taking your dog outside, they're useful as an intermediate stage, especially if you don't have a backyard.

2 Consider crate training your dog. Crate training is helpful for many reasons. First of all, it curbs destructive behavior, allowing you to sleep and leave your dog alone without worrying. Second of all, it is a very effective method of potty training (when used correctly).

3 Teach your dog basic commands. Your puppy will be most able to learn commands while he is young, so begin teaching as soon as possible. In addition, you can use basic commands as a basis for more complicated tricks later.

4 Get your dog used to car rides. Take your puppy on regular car rides to get him used to traveling with you. Otherwise, every time you get in the car he will think he is being taken to a vet. Then, he will start whining, and it will just get you frustrated.

5 Enter in an obedience class. Not only will this help you better train your dog, but it will socialize your puppy, helping him learn how to act around unfamiliar dogs and people.

Tips

Wash your puppy's food bowls daily with warm water and a little dish soap. Or, just throw them in the dishwasher. Washing food bowls prevents illness, bacteria from growing, and it makes each meal time more enjoyable.

Clean your puppy's eyes daily to prevent infections and tear stains (even breeds without white coats can get tear stains and inflammation of the skin around the eye!!!). Clean ears bi-weekly to prevent wax and stink.

Be sure to give your puppy lots of love, attention and gentle guidance about good behavior.

Make sure your puppy gets an adequate amount of rest.

Warnings

This page is only for puppies eight weeks old and older. You should not buy a puppy younger than eight weeks old.

Don't expose your puppy to other dogs before it receives its vaccinations.

Do not leave anything lying around that your puppy could choke on.

Do not train your puppy too late. It may become a problem if trained later, so start early.

What should I do when I bring home a new puppy?

It is absolutely essential to thoroughly research the basics of pet care before acquiring any new pet. RSPCA Australia recommends you take the time to find a detailed book on puppy and dog care before bringing your new pet home, so that you are well prepared for its arrival. Once you have done your research and decided on a suitable pet there will be several things you need to consider upon bringing your puppy home: 

Desexing, microchipping and registration, vaccination
All dogs that are adopted from RSPCA shelters are desexed and microchipped. Desexing your dog prevents unplanned pregnancy and has positive effects on behaviour and health. Desexed animals are less likely to wander or fight over territory; in turn reducing the likelihood of car injuries and bite wounds. Desexing also comes with health benefits for both male and female dogs. Female dogs desexed early are far less likely to suffer from mammary tumours later in life and male dogs are less likely to develop prostatic disease. You puppy can be desexed as early as 8 weeks of age when the operation is straight forward and recovery is very quick. Your local vet can provide this service. Some RSPCA veterinary clinics offer desexing at a discounted rate. You are legally required to have your puppy microchipped and registered with council so that he is easily identifiable, should he go missing. Your vet will be able to microchip your puppy at the same time he is desexed. Microchipping is a permanent form of identification. The chip itself is about the size of a grain of rice, and is inserted just under the skin, usually between the shoulder blades. Microchipping is a very quick, simple procedure and most animals show little sign of discomfort. The fee for registering desexed animals is lower than for non-desexed animals. Remember to change your microchip registration details if you move house. 

Your vet will also be able to advise you about vaccination. Puppies are vulnerable to a host of infectious diseases, some of which can be fatal. It is important that your puppy receives the necessary immunisations to protect against these infections, please contact your local vet clinic for more information. Booster injections are usually administered annually and are particularly important if you plan to board your dog at any time. Most boarding kennels will not accept animals that are not vaccinated.

Training and socialisation
Training and socialisation should be started in puppyhood and are important for several reasons. Obedience training will ensure that your puppy learns how to behave around people and other animals. It is important to set basic ground rules early to ensure that your pet learns to behave well from an early age and to reduce the likelihood of behavioural problems emerging later in life. Training is also great fun for your puppy as it provides an outlet for mental stimulation and a chance to interact with you. Obedience training takes time and will require patience and consistency from you and your family.

Proactively socialising your puppy is very important. Puppies have what is called a 'critical socialisation period' between approximately 3 -17 weeks of age. The puppy’s experiences during this critical period of learning and development can influence and shape their behaviour well into adulthood. Providing plenty of opportunities for socialisation and exposure to different environments during this time can help to ensure your puppy grows into a well-adjusted adult that relates well to other dogs, other animals and people.

The best way to begin socialising your pet is to take him to puppy school classes – these are often offered through veterinary clinics. You can also take your puppy to meet with the puppies and dogs of your friends and family, either at your house or their house. But you should make sure that the other dogs and puppies are friendly, healthy and up-to-date with their vaccinations.

Training should be based on positive reinforcement. Aversion therapy and physical punishment must not be used in trainng programs because of the potential for cruelty.

Exercise
Exercise is an important aspect of your pet’s day to day care. Often a walk is a dog’s favourite part of the day - they are able to explore the neighbourhood and spend time with you. Exercise also provides various health benefits and provides a good opportunity for your dog to socialise with other dogs which is vital for their behavioural development. It is important to avoid over-exercising your puppy, please see the article "How should I exercise my puppy?" for more information. Please check with your local vet when your dog will be sufficiently vaccinated to be taken out in public.

Obesity is a huge problem in Australian pets so before you commit to a pet make sure that you can fit your dog’s exercise into your daily routine.

Diet
Puppies should be fed a combination of both natural foods and a high quality commercial puppy food. Natural foods include fresh raw meat, raw meaty bones and some vegetable matter. Please see the article titled "What should I feed my puppy?" for detailed information about puppy nutrition.

When you leave your dog alone
Your puppy will require a lot of care and attention from you. At some stage, however, you may have to leave your puppy alone for short periods. Try and make this a gradual process to avoid causing separation anxiety – leaving for very short amounts of time and rewarding him upon returning with a walk or play. Gradually increase the length of time you are away so that your puppy realises that you will always come back and he will have a walk to look forward to. A good way to avoid boredom while you are away is to leave toys for him to play with. Keep a stash of toys hidden and give him different toys to play with on different days. Look for toys such as the Kong or Buster Cube which can be filled with healthy doggie treats to keep him entertained while you are away.

Purchasing a pet should never be an impulsive decision. RSPCA shelters receive thousands of unwanted and abandoned animals each year, these are often the result of an ill considered decision. Before you become a pet owner make sure you can fully commit to the responsibilities of owning a pet and do the necessary research to make sure that your new puppy is well cared for when he comes home with you.

Bringing your new puppy home

The day your new puppy comes home is the start of a new life, and a great adventure for all of you, one which we hope you will enjoy for many years to come, as your puppy becomes a real part of the family. For your puppy, it’s also a big upheaval – he or she will be missing Mum and brothers and sisters, and will have to get used to a whole new house, lifestyle and people.



What to buy

It’s much easier to get what you need for your new puppy in advance, rather than dashing out when he’s come home because you’ve forgotten something. Here’s a reminder of some useful items:

• Puppy crate (if using)
• Dog bed and bedding
• Food and water bowls – one for each
• Food – it’s best to stick with the one he’s used to, at least at the start
• Collar and lead, plus dog tag
• Brush and comb
• Toys 

ere quiet and comfortable to snooze out of the way of a busy household. He’ll also need to learn where to go to the toilet, what meal times are all about, how to play nicely with children or other pets in the house, which toys are his, what he’s allowed to do and what’s out of bounds. And of course, he’ll have to visit the vets for a check-up and his vaccinations, as well as learn to wear a collar, walk on a lead, come when he’s called, and other basic commands, all of which are going to keep him (and you!) pretty busy for the next few months.

Newborn Puppy Care

During the first few weeks of life, a puppy’s primary activities are feeding, keeping warm and developing social skills. In most cases, humans will simply watch the mother dog provide all necessary care for her puppies. However, if the puppy in your care has been separated from his mother, or if the mother dog has rejected her young or cannot produce enough milk, caring for the pup is up to you.

How Do I Feed a Newborn Puppy? A mother dog’s milk provides everything the pups need during their first four weeks of life. If you are caring for an orphan or the mother is out of the picture, consult with a veterinarian for guidance on the proper way to bottle-feed newborns, as it is easy to cause harm by doing it incorrectly. The babies will need to be fed a commercial canine milk replacer. Be sure to use one specifically formulated for puppies, as cow’s milk and other milk replacer can cause diarrhea.

Puppies will need bottle or syringe feeding every few hours for several weeks.

How Often Should a Puppy Eat? Puppies generally nurse at least every two hours in their first week of life. As they develop and grow, the intervals between feedings increase. At around four weeks of age, puppies can begin to transition from nursing to eating solid food. When making the transition to solid food, a high-quality dry puppy kibble can be soaked with warm water and milk replacer and blended to the consistency of gruel. This can be made available several times a day. Gradually, the amount of milk replacer can be decreased until the puppies are eating dry kibble by about 7 to 8 weeks of age. Consult your veterinarian for the exact amount to feed and for help creating a long-term feeding schedule suited to the puppies’ development needs.

How Much Should a Newborn Puppy Weigh? The average birth weight for puppies depends on breed. During the first weeks of life, a pup’s body weight may double or even triple. Gaining 10 to 15% of birth weight daily is considered healthy. Pups who don’t gain adequate weight during this early period may not survive.

Should I Hold the Puppy? Puppies should not be overhandled during their first two weeks of life, and care should always be taken not to upset the mother dog when handling. If you are hand-raising pups, handle them only as much as is necessary to keep them warm, clean and fed for the first two weeks of life.

Make sure they are staying warm at this tender age—a well-monitored heating pad or warm water bottle wrapped in a towel will do the trick. Starting at three weeks of age, try to gently handle the puppies in short sessions a few times every day—this is around the time their vision and hearing are kicking in and their teeth are beginning to develop and is considered an important time for socialization. Please take care not to allow children to do any handling without adult supervision, and not until the puppies are at least three weeks of age.

How Can I Teach a Puppy to Go to the Bathroom? During their first few weeks of life, puppies are unable to urinate and defecate on their own. Dog mothers instinctively stimulate their babies to excrete waste through licking. If you are raising puppies without a mother dog, you will have to assume this—luckily, you can use your hands instead of your tongue! Dip a soft washcloth or a piece of gauze in warm water and gently massage the anal and urinary regions after feeding. The warmth, texture and movement mimic a mother dog’s tongue. It is vital that you do this, so have your vet coach you on methods of encouraging newborn puppies to relieve themselves. Puppies begin excreting on their own at about three to four weeks of age.

When Should Puppies Have Their First Vet Checkup? Assuming the pups appear healthy, most veterinarians recommend that they receive their first round of standard vaccinations at six weeks of age. Deworming and a physical examination can begin at an early age. Consult with your veterinarian to schedule your puppies’ preventative health plan. However, you should call your vet immediately if a puppy exhibits any of the following symptoms:

• Lack of appetite
• Poor weight gain
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Difficult breathing
• Coughing/wheezing
• Constant crying
• Pale gums
• Swollen eyes or eye discharge
• Nasal discharge
• Inability to pass urine or stool

Dogs Wear Seat Belts?

July 15, 2011 — Seeing a dog sticking his head out the car window enjoying the sights and smells on a sunny day is super cute, but is it safe?

Increasingly, many are saying it’s not.

One concern is that just having a dog free in the car can be distracting to a driver, for example, if your dog barks, is being petted or scolded. Another reason is that if the driver steps on the brakes, your seat belt may protect you but your dog many not be so lucky.

Experts say that in a car with brakes being applied while driving 35 miles per hour, even a small dog can create a force the equivalent of 2,700 pound baby elephant! Bad for your dog … and could be bad for you too.

So, what to do?

There are actually many different kinds of dog seat belts on the market depending on the size of your dog and the kind of restraint you want.

There are harness and booster type seats, ones that look more like leashes where your dog can move around a bit and get comfortable. And there are ones for the cargo part of your car.

Is your dog going to like it? Probably not so much, at least at first.

And while law enforcement officials seem to agree that this is a safer way to travel for your pet, it’s not a law. In fact, right now only a handful of states even require safety belts for children on school buses! Wearing a seat belt only became a law (in most states) in 1984, not even 30 years ago.

Training your Dog to Wear a Dog Muzzle

There may be times in your dog's life when you need to use a dog muzzle.

Teaching your dog to like wearing a dog muzzle is something every dog owner should do, not necessarily just for aggression problems, but in case you need to muzzle the dog in an emergency situation.

God forbid, if your dog was injured in an automobile accident, or if another dog attacked him, he might not allow someone else to pick him up or move him to the vets office for treatment.

So, be prepared for this by desensitizing the dog to wearing a muzzle. Here is how to do it.

Generally, I prefer using the basket style muzzle; it has wire openings that are large enough on the sides to feed the dog treats, and the dog still has the ability to pant and to drink water.

Here are Wire Basket Muzzles and Plastic Basket Muzzles that allow your dog to pant and drink water. 

Be sure you get the correct size for your dog. You will see a page that will help you decide which size is best.

When you finally have the muzzle, show it to your dog, and keep your voice very happy and upbeat.

Let the dog sniff it, and praise him to the skies for any positive attention he shows to the item.

Next, place his favorite dry treat at the bottom of the muzzle, and let your dog put his nose inside of it to retrieve the treat. Praise him and encourage him to do this.

Feed him some treats a few more times, and then put the muzzle away. 

While he is wearing the muzzle, you keep praising him, BUT… when you take the muzzle off - ignore him for at least 3 minutes each time you work on this! 

That will help him associate good attention while wearing/working with the muzzle, vs. things getting kinda boring when you take it off and put it away. 

Next days session, you will want to repeat this procedure again. Offer him treats that take a little longer to chew, and attempt to hold the muzzle up on his nose for a bit longer than the prior days lesson.

Praise him, and keep adding a treat at a time while holding the muzzle on his nose for a longer period of time. 

Tell your dog how great he is for being so cooperative. ONLY when you are satisfied that the dog seems very comfortable when he sees you bring out the muzzle, and he readily eats from it, you will be ready for the next step.

Stay on this level of training for a day and practice at least 2 to 3 times for no longer than 3 minutes each time. Remember to keep things a little boring right after you put the muzzle away.

To prepare yourself for the next lesson, practice feeding slivers of treats through the side wires of the basket, but not while the muzzle is on the dog. You want to do this because it takes a couple of times to get this right.

I know it was very awkward when I first started trying to feed my dog treats and fit them through fast so he could eat them.

Now, for the most important segment of muzzle training: Be prepared with about 20 treats, but instead of using the dry treat, use a much higher level of food; i.e., use bits of chicken, cheese, liver, roast beef, hot dog slices or steak. 

On this 3rd day, always start out with a review of the last days level of training, and of course, do not forget to praise him. Then, place the treat at the bottom of the muzzle, allow him to chew it, and then fasten the strap behind his head. 

IMMEDIATELY, start feeding him the soft meaty or cheese treat THROUGH THE SIDE WIRES. Continuously feed the dog one treat right after the other, and praise him like crazy in a very happy voice. FEED, FEED, FEED!

Then unhook the strap, STOP FEEDING, and DO NOT PRAISE HIM once the muzzle is removed. Keep him at this last level of training for about 2 days and work on getting him used to wearing the muzzle for longer and longer periods of time.

When you see your dog wag his tail every time you bring out the muzzle, you know you have accomplished your desensitization work. However, do not stop training. 

You will need to remind him once in awhile that wearing the muzzle is always a good thing. If you stop working on it, and you do not use the muzzle for a very long time, you will only have to go back and work on it again from scratch. You want your dog to be prepared at any time to have a muzzle placed on his nose. With any training of any behavior, dogs are like we are… if they don't use it - they will lose it!

One last thing: never put your dog's muzzle on him when you're showing any anger or frustration. The muzzle ALWAYS has to be associated with your being happy about giving it to him to wear.

How To Get Your Dog To Wear A Halloween Costume Or Other Clothes For Dogs

Are you planning to participate in a pet parade with your dog?

Or maybe you’ll be entering a pet Halloween costume contest this year.

Here’s a word of advice: make make sure that your dog doesn’t mind being dressed up first… several days before the big event!

Trying to get a dog to wear a Halloween costume can sometimes be tricky. Your dog may not like the feeling of wearing a strange, bulky costume. Not to mention the fact that some dogs don’t even like wearing clothes at all.

Here’s how to get your dog to wear clothing and costumes…

How To Get Your Dog To Wear Clothes

Your first step is to simply get your dog used to wearing things.

Start with very basic items, like a hat, sunglasses, or hair ribbons. You don’t have to go out and buy these things. You can experiment with your own items because you’re just trying to get your dog used to having things on him for short periods of time. He won’t be playing with them on his own.

As with any form of dog training, be sure to use your dog’s favorite treats and praiseeven for very short periods of sitting still with the item on.

From there, try a t-shirt (either a doggie-sized one, or a small child’s shirt) and/or a pair of shorts (again, made just for dogs or a child’s pair). Again, give treats and lots of praise for every little bit of improvement toward keeping the item on without pawing at it, biting it, or running away.

Finally, depending on how far you want to take it — or what’s included with your dog’s costume — dog boots take some extra time for most dogs to get used to. I recommend getting your dog used to wearing a soft, comfortable pair of child’s socks before trying doggie footwear that is bulky or confining.

TIP: My dog is pretty easy-going and he will sit through just about anything you put him through — from trimming nails and brushing teeth to wearing hats and sunglasses . But… the dog boots we bought for him to wear in the winter definitely took the most time to get used to. It was a gradual success, rather than an overnight success. You might want to try just the front paws or just the back paws first. My dog did better when we went all out and put socks on all 4 paws at once.

Depending on the dog, it could take anywhere from 1 day to many months of trying to get your dog comfortable with wearing clothes. In the end, if your dog just doesn’t like wearing clothes, then don’t force him to wear them. That will just stress out your dog and lead to other problems.

How To Get Your Dog To Wear A Halloween Costume

As long as you use positive reinforcement and experiment with simple items of clothing first — as mentioned above — you should be able to get your dog to wear a Halloween costume in no time. 

As with any item of clothing, it could take several days or several months before your dog is comfortable with wearing a costume. It all depends on the dog.

Please… if your dog just doesn’t like wearing the costume you bought or made for him, don’t force him to wear it. Doing so will really stress out your dog and won’t be fun for anybody — you, your dog, or the people & dogs around you. 

Some good alternatives for non-costume wearing dogs are:

• Dog bandanas – Not all of them must be folded & tied; some are actual dog collars, so they’re less restricting and feel like your dog’s own collar.
• Fun Halloween dog collars – These have fun decorations and sayings specifically about Halloween. Again, most dogs are used to having collars around the neck area.
• Dog Halloween toys – Maybe your dog will carry one around, or you could just carry them in your arms with your dog or place them in your dog’s stoller.
• Dog hair dye – It’s a simple way to change your dog’s overall look. Orange dye would be good for Halloween, but it’s not
• the only color. Pink dog dye and green dog dye work wonders on the right dogs! Plus, you don’t have to dye all of your dog’s fur… maybe just some ‘highlights’ would be fun.
• Banners, signs, jewelry – Hung loosely around your dog’s neck, the right combination of items could make a unique look or statement.

TIP: My personal recommendation for dogs that don’t like wearing costumes is to keep practicing with a basic dog Santa hat. It’s simple. It’s festive. And while your dog may not win any pet costume contests, once your dog gets accustomed to wearing it, you can get 2 holidays of use from it — Christmas and Halloween! There’s nothing wrong with a dog going as a simple Santa Claus (or would that be Santa Paws?) for Halloween. My dog did one year.

Dog Does'nt Like Wearing a Costume

Halloween is a fun time. All the witches and bats are out there…..and so are our dogs. Each year we can find more exciting and original pet costumes.

But if my dog or maybe me – the owner doesn’t like to the costume idea. Maybe you feel that it’s too expensive for one day or maybe it’s some other reason. But you still want to have fun. Then, i have a nice suggestion.

1. Sweater for winter with pig ears, Pumpkin or moose that can be useful at Christmas and all winter cold days. They are so cute, warm and soft and they are really fun.

2. Sweatshirts / hoodies with Jack O’ Lantern Rhinestone or Trick or Treat. They are available Black, Pink, Cream or light Blue up to 3x-large.

3. Tee of a friendly Munster (yes, there are friendly Munster too or a little pumpkin with a big smile.

4. Cute hair bows with the Halloween color and a tiny witch or bat.

5. Soft mesh harness available in 9 colors with small hint like a skull screen print for him and for her a skull with Red bow.

6. Cold days coming and for a limited time we offer a designer Black curly pet blanket with Orange minky soft on reverse side.

7. Pumpkin Shirt Dog Collar Tie on White collar

All suggestions above will make any pet ready for Halloween when at the same time these clothes and accessories can be used all winter.

Top 10 Most Frequently Reported Poison Dangers for Dogs

The veterinarians at Pet Poison Helpline have perused their records for 2011, and determined the “Top Ten List” of potential poisons in our homes and yards that were the most commonly reported during 2011.   

“Each year we examine our records to determine what contributed to the most calls from pet owners and veterinarians,” said Justine Lee, DVM, DACVECC and associate director of veterinary services for Pet Poison Helpline. “Since we spent the most time diagnosing and specifying treatments for dog-related emergencies, we’ve broken them down and produced a ‘top ten list’ designed to educate dog owners and provide veterinarians with the latest facts and statistics.”

Below is the Top Ten List from Pet Poison Helpline. Items are presented in order of frequency starting with foods, which accounted for the highest number of poisoning cases in 2011.  

1.     Foods – specifically chocolate, xylitol, and grapes/raisins.

        Certain types of chocolate are very toxic to dogs. The chemical causing toxicity in chocolate is theobromine (a relative of caffeine). The darker, more bitter, and more concentrated the chocolate is, the more dangerous it is. Many sugarless gums and candies contain xylitol, a sweetener that is dangerous to dogs. When ingested, even in small amounts, it can result in a life-threatening drop in blood sugar or even liver failure. Raisins and grapes are often overlooked as one of the most toxic foods to dogs, and can result in kidney failure.

2.     Insecticides – including sprays, bait stations, and spot on flea/tick treatments.

        Ingestion of insecticides and pesticides, especially those that contain organophosphates (e.g., disulfoton, often found in rose-care products), can be life-threatening to dogs, even when ingested in small amounts. While spot-on flea and tick treatments work well for dogs, they can be very toxic to cats when not applied appropriately. Cat owners should read labels carefully, as those that contain pyrethrins or pyrethroids (a derivative of the Chrysanthemum flower), are severely toxic if directly applied or ingested.

3.     Mouse and rat poison – rodenticides.

        There are many types of chemicals in mouse and rat poisons, all with different active ingredients and types of action, making all of them potentially poisonous to dogs. Depending on what type was ingested, poisoning can result in internal bleeding, brain swelling, kidney failure, or even severe vomiting and bloat. Mouse and rat poisons also pose the potential for relay toxicity, meaning pets – and even wildlife – can be poisoned by eating dead rodents poisoned by rodenticides.

4.     NSAIDS human drugs – such as ibuprofen, naproxen.

        Common drugs including NSAIDs (e.g. Advil^®, Aleve^® and Motrin) can cause serious harm to dogs when ingested, causes stomach and intestinal ulcers as well as potential kidney failure. The use of human NSAIDs in dogs is dangerous and should never be given without consulting Pet Poison Helpline or a veterinarian.

5.     Household cleaners – sprays, detergents, polishes.

        Strong acidic or alkaline cleaners pose the highest risk due to their corrosive nature, and include common household products like toilet bowel cleaners, lye, drain cleaners, rust removers, and calcium/lime removers. Remember that “natural” does not necessarily mean safe, as some natural products can cause severe reactions. While general cleaners like glass products, spot removers and most surface cleaners have a wide margin of safety, it is still wise to keep them out of reach.

6.     Antidepressant human drugs – such as Prozac, Paxil, Celexa and Effexor.

        Of all prescription medications, antidepressants account for the highest number of calls to Pet Poison Helpline. When ingested, they can cause neurological problems in dogs like sedation, incoordination, agitation, tremors and seizures.

7.     Fertilizers – including bone meal, blood meal and iron-based products.

        While some fertilizers are fairly safe, certain organic products that contain blood meal, bone meal, feather meal and iron may be especially tasty – and dangerous – to dogs. Large ingestions can cause severe pancreatitis or even form a concretion in the stomach, obstructing the gastrointestinal tract.

8.     Acetaminophen human drugs – such as Tylenol and cough/cold medications.

        Sizeable ingestions of acetaminophen can lead to severe liver failure and even dry eye in dogs. However, it should be noted that it is a more significant threat to cats, as a single Tylenol tablet can be fatal.  

9.     Amphetamine human drugs – ADD/ADHD medications like Adderall and Concerta.

        Medications used to treat ADD (Attention Deficit Disorder) and ADHD (Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder) contain potent stimulants, such as amphetamines and methylphenidate. Even minimal ingestions by dogs can cause life-threatening tremors, seizures, elevated body temperatures and heart problems.

10.   Veterinary pain relievers – specifically COX-2 inhibitors like Rimadyl, Dermaxx and Previcox.

        Carprofen, more commonly known by its trade name Rimadyl, is a veterinary-specific, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug. While it is commonly used for osteoarthritis, inflammation, and pain control in dogs, if over-ingested in large amounts, it can result in severe gastric ulceration and acute kidney failure in dogs. 

Just For Fun – Top Ten Breeds and Names

Along with the important information above, the veterinarians at Pet Poison Helpline pulled from their records the “Top Ten” most common breeds and dog names, accounting for the most emergency calls in 2011.  

The Top Ten Breeds accounting for the most calls to Pet Poison Helpline were:

1.     Mixed breeds

2.     Labrador retrievers

3.     Golden retrievers

4.     Chihuahuas

5.     Yorkshire terriers

6.     Dachshunds

7.     Shih Tzus

8.     Boxers

9.     Beagles

10.   German shepherds 

The Top Ten Dog Names accounting for calls to Pet Poison Helpline in 2011, in descending order of popularity:

1.     Bella

2.     Lucy

3.     Max

4.     Molly

5.     Daisy

6.     Bailey

7.     Charlie

8.     Lily

9.     Maggie

10.   And last but not least – Sadie and Buddy were tied for tenth place!

Enjoy your dog’s companionship in 2012 and keep him safe with these life-saving tips from Pet Poison Helpline. If you think your dog may have ingested something harmful, take action immediately. Contact your veterinarian or Pet Poison Helpline at 1-800-213-6680. Pet Poison Helpline is the most cost-effective animal poison control center in North America charging, only $39 per call, including unlimited follow-up consultations.