Bringing your new puppy home

The day your new puppy comes home is the start of a new life, and a great adventure for all of you, one which we hope you will enjoy for many years to come, as your puppy becomes a real part of the family. For your puppy, it’s also a big upheaval – he or she will be missing Mum and brothers and sisters, and will have to get used to a whole new house, lifestyle and people.



What to buy

It’s much easier to get what you need for your new puppy in advance, rather than dashing out when he’s come home because you’ve forgotten something. Here’s a reminder of some useful items:

• Puppy crate (if using)
• Dog bed and bedding
• Food and water bowls – one for each
• Food – it’s best to stick with the one he’s used to, at least at the start
• Collar and lead, plus dog tag
• Brush and comb
• Toys 

ere quiet and comfortable to snooze out of the way of a busy household. He’ll also need to learn where to go to the toilet, what meal times are all about, how to play nicely with children or other pets in the house, which toys are his, what he’s allowed to do and what’s out of bounds. And of course, he’ll have to visit the vets for a check-up and his vaccinations, as well as learn to wear a collar, walk on a lead, come when he’s called, and other basic commands, all of which are going to keep him (and you!) pretty busy for the next few months.

Newborn Puppy Care

During the first few weeks of life, a puppy’s primary activities are feeding, keeping warm and developing social skills. In most cases, humans will simply watch the mother dog provide all necessary care for her puppies. However, if the puppy in your care has been separated from his mother, or if the mother dog has rejected her young or cannot produce enough milk, caring for the pup is up to you.

How Do I Feed a Newborn Puppy? A mother dog’s milk provides everything the pups need during their first four weeks of life. If you are caring for an orphan or the mother is out of the picture, consult with a veterinarian for guidance on the proper way to bottle-feed newborns, as it is easy to cause harm by doing it incorrectly. The babies will need to be fed a commercial canine milk replacer. Be sure to use one specifically formulated for puppies, as cow’s milk and other milk replacer can cause diarrhea.

Puppies will need bottle or syringe feeding every few hours for several weeks.

How Often Should a Puppy Eat? Puppies generally nurse at least every two hours in their first week of life. As they develop and grow, the intervals between feedings increase. At around four weeks of age, puppies can begin to transition from nursing to eating solid food. When making the transition to solid food, a high-quality dry puppy kibble can be soaked with warm water and milk replacer and blended to the consistency of gruel. This can be made available several times a day. Gradually, the amount of milk replacer can be decreased until the puppies are eating dry kibble by about 7 to 8 weeks of age. Consult your veterinarian for the exact amount to feed and for help creating a long-term feeding schedule suited to the puppies’ development needs.

How Much Should a Newborn Puppy Weigh? The average birth weight for puppies depends on breed. During the first weeks of life, a pup’s body weight may double or even triple. Gaining 10 to 15% of birth weight daily is considered healthy. Pups who don’t gain adequate weight during this early period may not survive.

Should I Hold the Puppy? Puppies should not be overhandled during their first two weeks of life, and care should always be taken not to upset the mother dog when handling. If you are hand-raising pups, handle them only as much as is necessary to keep them warm, clean and fed for the first two weeks of life.

Make sure they are staying warm at this tender age—a well-monitored heating pad or warm water bottle wrapped in a towel will do the trick. Starting at three weeks of age, try to gently handle the puppies in short sessions a few times every day—this is around the time their vision and hearing are kicking in and their teeth are beginning to develop and is considered an important time for socialization. Please take care not to allow children to do any handling without adult supervision, and not until the puppies are at least three weeks of age.

How Can I Teach a Puppy to Go to the Bathroom? During their first few weeks of life, puppies are unable to urinate and defecate on their own. Dog mothers instinctively stimulate their babies to excrete waste through licking. If you are raising puppies without a mother dog, you will have to assume this—luckily, you can use your hands instead of your tongue! Dip a soft washcloth or a piece of gauze in warm water and gently massage the anal and urinary regions after feeding. The warmth, texture and movement mimic a mother dog’s tongue. It is vital that you do this, so have your vet coach you on methods of encouraging newborn puppies to relieve themselves. Puppies begin excreting on their own at about three to four weeks of age.

When Should Puppies Have Their First Vet Checkup? Assuming the pups appear healthy, most veterinarians recommend that they receive their first round of standard vaccinations at six weeks of age. Deworming and a physical examination can begin at an early age. Consult with your veterinarian to schedule your puppies’ preventative health plan. However, you should call your vet immediately if a puppy exhibits any of the following symptoms:

• Lack of appetite
• Poor weight gain
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Difficult breathing
• Coughing/wheezing
• Constant crying
• Pale gums
• Swollen eyes or eye discharge
• Nasal discharge
• Inability to pass urine or stool

Dogs Wear Seat Belts?

July 15, 2011 — Seeing a dog sticking his head out the car window enjoying the sights and smells on a sunny day is super cute, but is it safe?

Increasingly, many are saying it’s not.

One concern is that just having a dog free in the car can be distracting to a driver, for example, if your dog barks, is being petted or scolded. Another reason is that if the driver steps on the brakes, your seat belt may protect you but your dog many not be so lucky.

Experts say that in a car with brakes being applied while driving 35 miles per hour, even a small dog can create a force the equivalent of 2,700 pound baby elephant! Bad for your dog … and could be bad for you too.

So, what to do?

There are actually many different kinds of dog seat belts on the market depending on the size of your dog and the kind of restraint you want.

There are harness and booster type seats, ones that look more like leashes where your dog can move around a bit and get comfortable. And there are ones for the cargo part of your car.

Is your dog going to like it? Probably not so much, at least at first.

And while law enforcement officials seem to agree that this is a safer way to travel for your pet, it’s not a law. In fact, right now only a handful of states even require safety belts for children on school buses! Wearing a seat belt only became a law (in most states) in 1984, not even 30 years ago.

Training your Dog to Wear a Dog Muzzle

There may be times in your dog's life when you need to use a dog muzzle.

Teaching your dog to like wearing a dog muzzle is something every dog owner should do, not necessarily just for aggression problems, but in case you need to muzzle the dog in an emergency situation.

God forbid, if your dog was injured in an automobile accident, or if another dog attacked him, he might not allow someone else to pick him up or move him to the vets office for treatment.

So, be prepared for this by desensitizing the dog to wearing a muzzle. Here is how to do it.

Generally, I prefer using the basket style muzzle; it has wire openings that are large enough on the sides to feed the dog treats, and the dog still has the ability to pant and to drink water.

Here are Wire Basket Muzzles and Plastic Basket Muzzles that allow your dog to pant and drink water. 

Be sure you get the correct size for your dog. You will see a page that will help you decide which size is best.

When you finally have the muzzle, show it to your dog, and keep your voice very happy and upbeat.

Let the dog sniff it, and praise him to the skies for any positive attention he shows to the item.

Next, place his favorite dry treat at the bottom of the muzzle, and let your dog put his nose inside of it to retrieve the treat. Praise him and encourage him to do this.

Feed him some treats a few more times, and then put the muzzle away. 

While he is wearing the muzzle, you keep praising him, BUT… when you take the muzzle off - ignore him for at least 3 minutes each time you work on this! 

That will help him associate good attention while wearing/working with the muzzle, vs. things getting kinda boring when you take it off and put it away. 

Next days session, you will want to repeat this procedure again. Offer him treats that take a little longer to chew, and attempt to hold the muzzle up on his nose for a bit longer than the prior days lesson.

Praise him, and keep adding a treat at a time while holding the muzzle on his nose for a longer period of time. 

Tell your dog how great he is for being so cooperative. ONLY when you are satisfied that the dog seems very comfortable when he sees you bring out the muzzle, and he readily eats from it, you will be ready for the next step.

Stay on this level of training for a day and practice at least 2 to 3 times for no longer than 3 minutes each time. Remember to keep things a little boring right after you put the muzzle away.

To prepare yourself for the next lesson, practice feeding slivers of treats through the side wires of the basket, but not while the muzzle is on the dog. You want to do this because it takes a couple of times to get this right.

I know it was very awkward when I first started trying to feed my dog treats and fit them through fast so he could eat them.

Now, for the most important segment of muzzle training: Be prepared with about 20 treats, but instead of using the dry treat, use a much higher level of food; i.e., use bits of chicken, cheese, liver, roast beef, hot dog slices or steak. 

On this 3rd day, always start out with a review of the last days level of training, and of course, do not forget to praise him. Then, place the treat at the bottom of the muzzle, allow him to chew it, and then fasten the strap behind his head. 

IMMEDIATELY, start feeding him the soft meaty or cheese treat THROUGH THE SIDE WIRES. Continuously feed the dog one treat right after the other, and praise him like crazy in a very happy voice. FEED, FEED, FEED!

Then unhook the strap, STOP FEEDING, and DO NOT PRAISE HIM once the muzzle is removed. Keep him at this last level of training for about 2 days and work on getting him used to wearing the muzzle for longer and longer periods of time.

When you see your dog wag his tail every time you bring out the muzzle, you know you have accomplished your desensitization work. However, do not stop training. 

You will need to remind him once in awhile that wearing the muzzle is always a good thing. If you stop working on it, and you do not use the muzzle for a very long time, you will only have to go back and work on it again from scratch. You want your dog to be prepared at any time to have a muzzle placed on his nose. With any training of any behavior, dogs are like we are… if they don't use it - they will lose it!

One last thing: never put your dog's muzzle on him when you're showing any anger or frustration. The muzzle ALWAYS has to be associated with your being happy about giving it to him to wear.

How To Get Your Dog To Wear A Halloween Costume Or Other Clothes For Dogs

Are you planning to participate in a pet parade with your dog?

Or maybe you’ll be entering a pet Halloween costume contest this year.

Here’s a word of advice: make make sure that your dog doesn’t mind being dressed up first… several days before the big event!

Trying to get a dog to wear a Halloween costume can sometimes be tricky. Your dog may not like the feeling of wearing a strange, bulky costume. Not to mention the fact that some dogs don’t even like wearing clothes at all.

Here’s how to get your dog to wear clothing and costumes…

How To Get Your Dog To Wear Clothes

Your first step is to simply get your dog used to wearing things.

Start with very basic items, like a hat, sunglasses, or hair ribbons. You don’t have to go out and buy these things. You can experiment with your own items because you’re just trying to get your dog used to having things on him for short periods of time. He won’t be playing with them on his own.

As with any form of dog training, be sure to use your dog’s favorite treats and praiseeven for very short periods of sitting still with the item on.

From there, try a t-shirt (either a doggie-sized one, or a small child’s shirt) and/or a pair of shorts (again, made just for dogs or a child’s pair). Again, give treats and lots of praise for every little bit of improvement toward keeping the item on without pawing at it, biting it, or running away.

Finally, depending on how far you want to take it — or what’s included with your dog’s costume — dog boots take some extra time for most dogs to get used to. I recommend getting your dog used to wearing a soft, comfortable pair of child’s socks before trying doggie footwear that is bulky or confining.

TIP: My dog is pretty easy-going and he will sit through just about anything you put him through — from trimming nails and brushing teeth to wearing hats and sunglasses . But… the dog boots we bought for him to wear in the winter definitely took the most time to get used to. It was a gradual success, rather than an overnight success. You might want to try just the front paws or just the back paws first. My dog did better when we went all out and put socks on all 4 paws at once.

Depending on the dog, it could take anywhere from 1 day to many months of trying to get your dog comfortable with wearing clothes. In the end, if your dog just doesn’t like wearing clothes, then don’t force him to wear them. That will just stress out your dog and lead to other problems.

How To Get Your Dog To Wear A Halloween Costume

As long as you use positive reinforcement and experiment with simple items of clothing first — as mentioned above — you should be able to get your dog to wear a Halloween costume in no time. 

As with any item of clothing, it could take several days or several months before your dog is comfortable with wearing a costume. It all depends on the dog.

Please… if your dog just doesn’t like wearing the costume you bought or made for him, don’t force him to wear it. Doing so will really stress out your dog and won’t be fun for anybody — you, your dog, or the people & dogs around you. 

Some good alternatives for non-costume wearing dogs are:

• Dog bandanas – Not all of them must be folded & tied; some are actual dog collars, so they’re less restricting and feel like your dog’s own collar.
• Fun Halloween dog collars – These have fun decorations and sayings specifically about Halloween. Again, most dogs are used to having collars around the neck area.
• Dog Halloween toys – Maybe your dog will carry one around, or you could just carry them in your arms with your dog or place them in your dog’s stoller.
• Dog hair dye – It’s a simple way to change your dog’s overall look. Orange dye would be good for Halloween, but it’s not
• the only color. Pink dog dye and green dog dye work wonders on the right dogs! Plus, you don’t have to dye all of your dog’s fur… maybe just some ‘highlights’ would be fun.
• Banners, signs, jewelry – Hung loosely around your dog’s neck, the right combination of items could make a unique look or statement.

TIP: My personal recommendation for dogs that don’t like wearing costumes is to keep practicing with a basic dog Santa hat. It’s simple. It’s festive. And while your dog may not win any pet costume contests, once your dog gets accustomed to wearing it, you can get 2 holidays of use from it — Christmas and Halloween! There’s nothing wrong with a dog going as a simple Santa Claus (or would that be Santa Paws?) for Halloween. My dog did one year.

Dog Does'nt Like Wearing a Costume

Halloween is a fun time. All the witches and bats are out there…..and so are our dogs. Each year we can find more exciting and original pet costumes.

But if my dog or maybe me – the owner doesn’t like to the costume idea. Maybe you feel that it’s too expensive for one day or maybe it’s some other reason. But you still want to have fun. Then, i have a nice suggestion.

1. Sweater for winter with pig ears, Pumpkin or moose that can be useful at Christmas and all winter cold days. They are so cute, warm and soft and they are really fun.

2. Sweatshirts / hoodies with Jack O’ Lantern Rhinestone or Trick or Treat. They are available Black, Pink, Cream or light Blue up to 3x-large.

3. Tee of a friendly Munster (yes, there are friendly Munster too or a little pumpkin with a big smile.

4. Cute hair bows with the Halloween color and a tiny witch or bat.

5. Soft mesh harness available in 9 colors with small hint like a skull screen print for him and for her a skull with Red bow.

6. Cold days coming and for a limited time we offer a designer Black curly pet blanket with Orange minky soft on reverse side.

7. Pumpkin Shirt Dog Collar Tie on White collar

All suggestions above will make any pet ready for Halloween when at the same time these clothes and accessories can be used all winter.

Top 10 Most Frequently Reported Poison Dangers for Dogs

The veterinarians at Pet Poison Helpline have perused their records for 2011, and determined the “Top Ten List” of potential poisons in our homes and yards that were the most commonly reported during 2011.   

“Each year we examine our records to determine what contributed to the most calls from pet owners and veterinarians,” said Justine Lee, DVM, DACVECC and associate director of veterinary services for Pet Poison Helpline. “Since we spent the most time diagnosing and specifying treatments for dog-related emergencies, we’ve broken them down and produced a ‘top ten list’ designed to educate dog owners and provide veterinarians with the latest facts and statistics.”

Below is the Top Ten List from Pet Poison Helpline. Items are presented in order of frequency starting with foods, which accounted for the highest number of poisoning cases in 2011.  

1.     Foods – specifically chocolate, xylitol, and grapes/raisins.

        Certain types of chocolate are very toxic to dogs. The chemical causing toxicity in chocolate is theobromine (a relative of caffeine). The darker, more bitter, and more concentrated the chocolate is, the more dangerous it is. Many sugarless gums and candies contain xylitol, a sweetener that is dangerous to dogs. When ingested, even in small amounts, it can result in a life-threatening drop in blood sugar or even liver failure. Raisins and grapes are often overlooked as one of the most toxic foods to dogs, and can result in kidney failure.

2.     Insecticides – including sprays, bait stations, and spot on flea/tick treatments.

        Ingestion of insecticides and pesticides, especially those that contain organophosphates (e.g., disulfoton, often found in rose-care products), can be life-threatening to dogs, even when ingested in small amounts. While spot-on flea and tick treatments work well for dogs, they can be very toxic to cats when not applied appropriately. Cat owners should read labels carefully, as those that contain pyrethrins or pyrethroids (a derivative of the Chrysanthemum flower), are severely toxic if directly applied or ingested.

3.     Mouse and rat poison – rodenticides.

        There are many types of chemicals in mouse and rat poisons, all with different active ingredients and types of action, making all of them potentially poisonous to dogs. Depending on what type was ingested, poisoning can result in internal bleeding, brain swelling, kidney failure, or even severe vomiting and bloat. Mouse and rat poisons also pose the potential for relay toxicity, meaning pets – and even wildlife – can be poisoned by eating dead rodents poisoned by rodenticides.

4.     NSAIDS human drugs – such as ibuprofen, naproxen.

        Common drugs including NSAIDs (e.g. Advil^®, Aleve^® and Motrin) can cause serious harm to dogs when ingested, causes stomach and intestinal ulcers as well as potential kidney failure. The use of human NSAIDs in dogs is dangerous and should never be given without consulting Pet Poison Helpline or a veterinarian.

5.     Household cleaners – sprays, detergents, polishes.

        Strong acidic or alkaline cleaners pose the highest risk due to their corrosive nature, and include common household products like toilet bowel cleaners, lye, drain cleaners, rust removers, and calcium/lime removers. Remember that “natural” does not necessarily mean safe, as some natural products can cause severe reactions. While general cleaners like glass products, spot removers and most surface cleaners have a wide margin of safety, it is still wise to keep them out of reach.

6.     Antidepressant human drugs – such as Prozac, Paxil, Celexa and Effexor.

        Of all prescription medications, antidepressants account for the highest number of calls to Pet Poison Helpline. When ingested, they can cause neurological problems in dogs like sedation, incoordination, agitation, tremors and seizures.

7.     Fertilizers – including bone meal, blood meal and iron-based products.

        While some fertilizers are fairly safe, certain organic products that contain blood meal, bone meal, feather meal and iron may be especially tasty – and dangerous – to dogs. Large ingestions can cause severe pancreatitis or even form a concretion in the stomach, obstructing the gastrointestinal tract.

8.     Acetaminophen human drugs – such as Tylenol and cough/cold medications.

        Sizeable ingestions of acetaminophen can lead to severe liver failure and even dry eye in dogs. However, it should be noted that it is a more significant threat to cats, as a single Tylenol tablet can be fatal.  

9.     Amphetamine human drugs – ADD/ADHD medications like Adderall and Concerta.

        Medications used to treat ADD (Attention Deficit Disorder) and ADHD (Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder) contain potent stimulants, such as amphetamines and methylphenidate. Even minimal ingestions by dogs can cause life-threatening tremors, seizures, elevated body temperatures and heart problems.

10.   Veterinary pain relievers – specifically COX-2 inhibitors like Rimadyl, Dermaxx and Previcox.

        Carprofen, more commonly known by its trade name Rimadyl, is a veterinary-specific, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug. While it is commonly used for osteoarthritis, inflammation, and pain control in dogs, if over-ingested in large amounts, it can result in severe gastric ulceration and acute kidney failure in dogs. 

Just For Fun – Top Ten Breeds and Names

Along with the important information above, the veterinarians at Pet Poison Helpline pulled from their records the “Top Ten” most common breeds and dog names, accounting for the most emergency calls in 2011.  

The Top Ten Breeds accounting for the most calls to Pet Poison Helpline were:

1.     Mixed breeds

2.     Labrador retrievers

3.     Golden retrievers

4.     Chihuahuas

5.     Yorkshire terriers

6.     Dachshunds

7.     Shih Tzus

8.     Boxers

9.     Beagles

10.   German shepherds 

The Top Ten Dog Names accounting for calls to Pet Poison Helpline in 2011, in descending order of popularity:

1.     Bella

2.     Lucy

3.     Max

4.     Molly

5.     Daisy

6.     Bailey

7.     Charlie

8.     Lily

9.     Maggie

10.   And last but not least – Sadie and Buddy were tied for tenth place!

Enjoy your dog’s companionship in 2012 and keep him safe with these life-saving tips from Pet Poison Helpline. If you think your dog may have ingested something harmful, take action immediately. Contact your veterinarian or Pet Poison Helpline at 1-800-213-6680. Pet Poison Helpline is the most cost-effective animal poison control center in North America charging, only $39 per call, including unlimited follow-up consultations.

Keep Dogs Out of Garden Areas, Lawns and Landscaping

With the ASPCA estimating there are about 75 million owned dogs in the United States, there’s no doubt that we love our furry friends! Unfortunately, not all dogs are the product of loving homes. Wild or stray dogs that roam freely can prey on livestock or family pets, become a danger to people or cause extensive damage to your property. Some may even carry the dreaded rabies virus.

Feral dogs live wherever there is habitat and a food source, most commonly in parks, under abandoned buildings and in rural wooded areas. These roving Rovers generally patrol at night and during the early morning hours. And while feral dogs can be a problem, even your neighbor’s dog can leave his “calling card” on your lawn! So what can you do about nuisance dogs that invade your property? Many areas offer trap, neuter and adopt programs or trap, neuter and release programs to help control the stray dog population. Your local humane league, SPCA, veterinarian or similar organization will be happy to give you additional information about these programs and methods.

When trapping, make sure to use a live animal cage large enough to hold the dog. To entice the dog into entering the trap, use a “mouth-watering” treat like dog food, any beef product, raw chicken or sardines. A Pet Detective in Canada, Vicky Vaughan actually realized that there were a lot of stories of dogs being recovered by hunters while they were cooking over campfires. So, you could try her method and light up your BBQ and cook something very fatty – bacon, tripe or hamburger, for example. Then just place a piece in the trap. The dog will find it difficult to resist something that tasty!

Once you catch the dog, be careful with it! Unfamiliar dogs may be frightened and could be dangerous to handle. Make sure to check in with your local animal control authorities or your local animal shelter for information on what to do with the animal.

How to Repel Stray Dogs and Keep “Neighbors’ Dog off my Lawn”!


To avoid the potential dangers in handling a trapped dog, a better option may be to learn how to repel dogs. You can find a myriad of “home remedy” dog repellent tips out there. Some people swear by garlic, chili pepper, olive or almond oil to keep the dogs away. Others say placing ammonia or vinegar soaked cotton balls around the part of your yard or garden that the dog is frequenting will drive them back. Just be ready to smell the ammonia or vinegar yourself (both are strong smells!), and don’t pour it directly on the ground as it may hurt your plants! Most people, however, find that these home remedies are hit-and-miss and try all of them without finding one that works effectively.

A better bet to keep Fido away may be to use a specially made dog repellent. Try applying a liquid or granular-based repellent around the perimeter of your yard that targets a dog’s keenly developed sense of smell and taste. You can also spray individual plants and flowers to protect them from doggy destruction. Liquid repellents protect large areas and also provide vertical protection, essential to your efforts to keep stray dogs out of the garden. By using both liquid and granular in combination, your worries about how to “keep the neighbors’ dog out of my yard” are over.

Another effective dog repellent is motion-activated sprinklers, which work by releasing a sudden jet of water. The spray, along with the tic-tic-tic sound, is sure to keep dogs off your property. You’ll no longer be asking to keep dogs “off my lawn” because they’ll be startled and conditioned to stay away.

Knowing your options on how to repel dogs is certainly the first step to reclaiming your yard from your uninvited canine invaders! Let us know how it goes!

Make Homemade Dog Repellent

Man's best friend may be great for companionship, but it wreaks havoc on gardens and upholstery. Whatever the reasons you want to keep a dog away, there are many dog repellants that are easy and cheap to make at home. All of the repellents listed below are 100 percent safe for dogs and the environment.
Citrus Dogs find the smell of citrus horrendous. You can protect your garden by placing slices of oranges or lemons throughout the flowerbed. To keep your dog off of your furniture, place a glass of lemon water on a nearby table or spray your furniture with the mixture

Cayenne Peppers Though cayenne peppers will not harm your dog, it will irritate its eyes, nose and throat. To keep your dog out of your flowerbed, grind a mixture of black pepper and cayenne pepper, and sprinkle it throughout your garden. A good trick for getting your dog to avoid the upholstery is to sprinkle cayenne pepper in your potpourri or leave a bowl of ornamental chilies next to the sofa.

Vinegar Dogs strongly dislike the odor of . Vinegar can be potentially dangerous for plants, so don't spray vinegar in your garden. Instead, douse biodegradable coffee filters in white vinegar and allow them to dry in the sun. Once completely dried, cut the filters into thin strips about the length of a toothpick. Spreading the strips throughout your garden will repel your dog and allow your flowers to thrive .

Ammonia Ammonia is the most effective dog repellent. To keep dogs off your furniture, clean your floors with an ammonia-based solution. For the garden, you can use the same method mentioned above for vinegar, replacing the vinegar with ammonia. Never pour or spray ammonia onto your lawn or flowers, because it could kill them

Dog Repellents

How to Keep Dogs Away From Yards

The need for effective dog repellents is clear to all those long-suffering folks who, although not dog owners, are nonetheless forced to deal with the unpleasant task of dog waste disposal. Below I consider some of the best approaches known to keep dogs away from yards, without harming them in any way. Broadly speaking, we can label all of these diverse approaches as "dog repellents," since they are all designed to repel unwanted canine intruders from a specific area. But I'll also provide examples of commercial products more narrowly associated with that label, namely, products that come in a can and are sprinkled or sprayed on the ground to keep dogs away.

Dog Repellents Applied as Powders, Granules or Sprays

One problem with the products that are sprinkled or sprayed on the ground is that you will have to reapply them after a rain and/or as the strength of their odor diminishes over time. On the upside, though, two examples in this class are available right off the kitchen shelf, saving you a trip to the home improvement center:

1. Ammonia
2. Vinegar

Note, however, that neither ammonia nor vinegar should be sprayed directly onto any lawn grass or landscape plants that you care about, as sufficient amounts of them will kill vegetation. In fact, I discuss vinegar as a weed killer elsewhere. Ammonia and vinegar, then, can be thought of as dog repellents to use around the perimeter of your property, forming a stinky, invisible barrier that keeps dogs away.

Dogs also dislike the smell of citrus, leading some homeowners to use orange, grapefruit or lemon peels as dog repellents. While these fruit peels are natural and easy to obtain, their use will probably have to be restricted to backyard garden areas, where they are out of public view.

Commercial Dog Repellents

Get Away® dog repellent makes use of the fact that dogs dislike the smell of citrus. But unlike with orange peels, sprinkling Get Away in the front yard won't create an eyesore. This dog repellent comes in both granule and spray form.

Critter Ridder® is an organic dog repellent put out by the same brain trust behind Havahart traps. Available in both granules and sprays, Critter Ridder works as a dog repellent because it gives off a smell of black pepper, which our canine friends find offensive.

Liquid Fence® works on a different principle. This dog repellent depends on the fact that dogs seek areas with familiar smells in which to do their business. Liquid Fence masks those smells. So instead of repulsing dogs with offensive odors, this product removes the welcome mat, so to speak, thereby discouraging them from conducting "business as usual."

Gadgets That Act as Dog Repellents

Unlike dog repellents that come in powder, granule or spray form, no re-application is required with gadgets like Scarecrow Sprinklers. Just hook one up to your garden hose and let its motion-activated mechanism do the work. Another advantage with this product is that there's no need to take separate control measures against each of the various types of pests with which your yard is challenged: Scarecrow Sprinklers® will repulse garden pests just as surely as they'll keep Fido away.

Yard Gard® is an electronic dog repellent. Like the Scarecrow Sprinkler, it is effective against other pests, as well. But unlike the Scarecrow Sprinkler, you have a choice:

• Blast would-be pests 24/7
• Or allow its motion-activated mechanism to alert it when pests approach

This dog repellent works by emitting sonic and ultrasonic sound waves that canines find offensive. Mount it on an outdoor storage shed, tree or fence.

Don't confuse Yard Gard with an underground dog fence: the former keeps dogs away, while the latter keeps them confined. Both emit sound waves that dogs dislike, but underground dog fences are used to keep your own dog from roaming off your property (similar principle, different purpose).

Of course, in addition to dog repellents, don't forget that one option for keeping dogs away from your property may be simply to erect a fence. However, the fence solution often isn't an option in urban areas, where you may have a grassy strip of public land that you have to maintain between the street and your own property border. Unfortunately, inconsiderate dog owners will walk their mutts on this strip and not pick up after them. Since you don't own this strip of land, you can't fence it off to keep dogs away. Thus the need for the dog repellents discussed above.