Dog Fleas

Dog fleas are a pesky nuisance. Any time your dog has them, not only do they annoy your pet and make her scratch constantly, they also infest the whole house, it seems.
You can easily tell when your dog has fleas. She will scratch furiously, over and over. It is important to check that there are no signs of other parasites such mange. Mange results in red skin patches and loss of hair.
Some people seem to be particularly attractive for fleas, mosquitoes and other biting insects. If you have a person like that in the house, they may know that the dog has a problem before you even notice the dog scratching.
Of course there are plenty of commercial products to get rid of dog fleas, but these are often chemical insecticides that you may not want to use on your pet or in your house. So what is the solution?
Fortunately there are some natural treatments for dog fleas. The traditional flea comb is one of them. It will get rid of a certain number of adult fleas by simply combing them out of the dog’s hair. Most dogs enjoy being combed, but be sure to do it outside or the parasites will just stay in the house and jump right back onto the dog.
Regular flea collars are to be avoided because of the harsh chemicals that they contain, but you can find all natural versions of a flea collar. Alternatively, rub a couple drops of essential oil of eucalyptus and rosemary onto a regular canvas or fabric covered collar. This will not work so well on bare leather. Watch that the dog does not chew the collar, because essential oils are strong and can burn the tissues of the mouth.
You can also get natural flea powder from many sources. Try asking in your local pet supplies store or health store, or order online. These natural dog flea treatments are usually made up of plant extracts including eucalyptus, fennel, rosemary and wormwood.
To prevent further infestations, try giving your dog garlic regularly in his food. The smell will keep parasites away. Brewer’s yeast is another natural food that has the same effect, so you can try this if your dog will not eat garlic.
At the same time as you are getting rid of fleas on your dog, it is important also to treat the house. Fleas will lay eggs and hide out in all kinds of soft furnishings including your sofas, rugs and beds.
For the house, be sure to get something that will not harm children or other pets. Usually the flea powder that you use on your dog can be sprinkled onto furnishings too, but try a spot test to be sure that it does not discolor fabric. You will need to treat furniture and mattresses, and wash sheets. Repeat the treatment twice more, every 2-3 days, to deal with any eggs that were left. You should find this is an effective way to get rid of dog fleas naturally.

Methods Training the Dog

Are you looking for information about how to train dogs? Well this dog training methods article may be exactly what you have been looking for. It is a good one.

If you have a young puppy, we recommend that you wait until he’s at least 8 weeks old to begin formal training.

Before you begin the formal training lessons with a dog of any age, please plan to follow these dog training methods as they will be the keys to success:

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1. Be patient. Each dog is unique, and can only learn at his own pace. Some dogs learn quickly; others take more time. Patience is indeed a virtue when it comes to effective dog training!

2. Be kind. This goes hand-in-paw with “Be patient.” Don’t lose your temper if your dog doesn’t “get it” right away, or appears to be ignoring you. Please do not punish your dog for not learning quickly enough.

As a matter of fact, don’t punish your dog at all. (We’ll be teaching you effective ways to stop or prevent inappropriate behavior—without punishment.)

3. Be flexible. If your dog is struggling to learn, be willing to change your training routine. The location may be too distracting. The time of day may be too close (or far from) feeding time. The length of your training session may be too long (or too short).

The training exercises may need to be broken down into smaller, simpler steps. Remember, each dog is unique. Be flexible and willing to do whatever you can to help your dog succeed.

4. Be generous. Be generous with your rewards and your time. Always reward your dog’s correct responses generously. Don’t be stingy with the treats—he’s worked hard and deserves a generous reward! And commit ample time to your training lessons.

We’re all busy these days, but this is “quality time” for you and your dog. You’ll both enjoy and benefit from the lessons, so make sure your schedule is adjusted accordingly!

Dog Training Methods | How To Train Dogs

Rewards

One of the biggest keys to success with positive reinforcement training is rewarding your dog properly. This means giving him something he loves at exactly the right moment.

Your first task is to figure out what kind of reward will best motivate your dog.

How To Train Dogs &Food Treats

All dogs are unique individuals. Most dogs are motivated by food that tastes and smells good to them. Food treats can be very small, which is handy for keeping them in your pocket or a pouch to use during training—and important to maintaining your dog’s caloric intake to healthy levels. So that’s the form of reward we’ll be using throughout this training.

Be sure what you’re giving your dog is good for him. But don’t rely on the packing of store-bought treats to tell you “Your dog will love it!”

Strong-smelling meat and cheese treats are usually winners, but many store-bought treats are made primarily of other ingredients. Your dog may not appreciate artificial colors, tastes or smells.

Small morsels of cooked chicken are a popular home-made treat. But keep in mind that what motivates other dogs may not motivate yours. Experiment and find out what he loves to eat.

Non-Edible Rewards

What if your dog isn’t motivated by food (rare, but a possibility)? You’ll have to find something else that motivates him. You may think a couple of pats on the head are a great reward, but your dog may not.

He might not even like it (most dogs don’t)! Try scratching his belly or some other form of petting. Again, experiment to find out what your dog loves.

Another form of reward to consider is play. Tossing a ball, playing tug-of-war, or playfully chasing your dog for a few minutes may be his idea of heaven.

The Best Reward

Let your dog show you what he truly loves. He’ll do this with his reaction to the reward you offer. You just need to pay attention to how he responds.

Just because he accepts a piece of kibble doesn’t necessarily mean he loves it. Watch him carefully when you’re giving him a treat, petting, or playing with him.

If he looks away or walks away, he probably isn’t all that thrilled about what you’re offering. But if he gets excited, stays close and begs for more, he’s showing you that he loves it and will be willing to work for that reward in the future.

For initial training, we highly recommend using a food treat as the reward. It’s the easiest to work with and gets the fastest results…just make sure your dog really likes it!

Timing is a key ingredient when it comes to how to train dogs.

After you figure out the form of reward, the second key to positive reinforcement is timing. This is critical during early training: you must give the reward immediately after your dog performs the correct action. This means within half-a-second!

Your response to his correct action must be clear and it must be instant. If you pause in stunned amazement that he actually did something right, then snap out of it and give him a treat several seconds later, you’ve blown it.

You must train yourself to deliver instant gratification to your dog. Do this consistently, and you’ll be amazed at how quickly your dog learns.

How To Train Dogs Dog Training Methods

Here’s another important tip about timing: don’t make your training lessons too long. Like humans, dogs can become bored by repetition. Bored students don’t learn very well.

So to keep the training sessions effective, don’t make them outlast your dog’s attention span. Each dog is different, so you’ll need to be alert and notice when his attention starts wandering.

Try for a 10-minute session and see how that goes. Shorten it if necessary. Don’t lengthen it to more than 15 minutes. Repeating a short session two or three times a day will be much more effective than having one long session each day.

Primary and Secondary Reinforcements

The instant reward you and your dog choose will be your primary reinforcer. A primary reinforcer is something your dog inherently loves. In other words, he was born loving it (treats, tummy rubs).

Another form of reward is known as a secondary reinforcer. A secondary reinforcer is something your dog must learn to love and be motivated by.

Praise is an excellent example. Puppies are not born loving a phrase such as “Good girl!” After all, it’s just noise to them. They must learn to associate that noise with love.

A popular form of secondary reinforcement is clicker training for dogs. A clicker is a handheld device that makes a distinctive clicking sound. That sound is basically a substitute for verbal praise. When used properly, your dog will learn to associate the clicking sound with love.

We prefer using verbal praise versus a clicker, simply because your voice is something you’ll always have with you. If you prefer to use a clicker, just remember to mentally substitute “click” when the lessons say verbal praise or “Good!”

Dog Training Methods

Consistency is Key

Regardless of whether you use your voice or a clicker, the most effective way to train your dog is to use a combination of primary and secondary reinforcers that are consistent.

If you’ll use your voice instead of a clicker, choose a phrase and use it exactly and consistently. Dogs are not people, remember? Words are just noise to them.

They have no idea that “Good girl,” “Great job,” “Way to go Molly” or other phrases all mean they did the right thing.

Pick your praise phrase, and make sure you (and others in your family) use that exact phrase or word every single time.

Then, several times a day, say your praise word or phrase and immediately give your dog the primary reinforcer (such as the treat you know he loves).

Do about five repetitions, two or three times a day, for two days. You can also use your praise word or phrase when rubbing her belly, when she’s eating his dinner, or any other time you’re sure she’s enjoying something she loves. Within a few days, she’ll learn to love the secondary reinforcer (the praise phrase or word) and will be eager to hear you say it.

How To Train Dogs | Dog Training Methods

(Throughout the training course we’ll use the example of “Good,” but substitute your own choice of secondary reinforcer. Remember to use it—and only it—consistently.)

During early training, the combination of the primary and secondary reinforcers will be extremely powerful and effective… more so than using either form of motivation alone.

Treats Won’t be Needed Forever

Don’t worry that you’ll have to carry treats around in your pocket all the time to get your dog to behave. As your dog learns, her obedience will eventually become habitual. You won’t need to consistently use treats or other primary reinforcers for those behaviors beyond that point. (You’ll need to use them consistently whenever teaching something new, though.)

It will always be a good idea to continue using the secondary reinforcer (“Good!” or whatever). You’re basically thanking your dog for doing what you asked… simple common courtesy is always a good thing!

We’ll tell you when you can start decreasing the use of treats or other primary reinforcers. But for now, and whenever you’re teaching your dog something new, be sure to use both forms of positive reinforcements as instructed especially if you are dealing with german shepherd aggression (I happen to be an authority on the German shepherd dog breed).

OK, now that you know the basic dog training tips of rewards and timing, you’re ready to begin training your best friend! I hope this dog training methods article has proved itself useful to you and will help in your quest for knowledge about how to train dogs.

Information about Hunting Dogs

Hunting dogs were bred primarily to work with people to hunt animals, fish and birds. Hunting dogs have been bred to suit varying environments and climates. Some Hunting dogs were bred specifically to work in water whilst other dogs are more suited to work on land and many of the dogs are comfortable and capable of working in either land or water environments. The evolution of the many breeds of Hunting dogs were dictated by the changing requirements of man. Hunting Dogs have been bred specifically to enhance their skills in helping man to hunt. Hunting dogs have been used by man dating back to Antiquity when their very survival was dependent on their hunting skills. The quarry sought provided man with food, clothing and even the hides were used for shelter. The advent of new agricultural methods, animal husbandry, manufacturing and new weapons saw the diminished need for Hunting dogs in modern times. The evolution and History of the Hunting Dogs was inextricably linked with man's own evolution.

The Evolution of Hunting Dogs - The Sight Hounds

The Hunting dogs in the category of Sighthounds specialise in hunting their quarry by sight rather than scent. Sighthounds have distinctive characteristics, features and traits which are perfect for hunting. The Afghan Hound is a good example of this with its padded paws and powerful legs which gave them the equal abilities to skim across sands or snow and to climb rocky mountains. Sighthounds, as their very name indicates, have extremely good vision. They also have a long jaw and lengthy neck which assists them in sighting their quarry. Their lean muscular body, deep chest and long powerful legs essential assets when following any fast and agile prey.

Hunting Dogs History & Evolution - The Scent Hounds


The Hunting Dogs categorised as Scent Hounds specialise in following the scent or the smell of its quarry. It was not necessary for Scent Hounds to be as fast and agile as Sighthounds - they do not need to keep their quarry in sight. Scent hounds as Hunting Dogs are built for endurance. They can follow a scent for long distances and even across running water. Scent Hounds have distinctive characteristics, features and traits which are perfect for their purpose as Hunting Dogs. They have large noses which have deep, open nostrils and their lips are loose and moist, designed to pick up scent particles and follow the trail of an animal. Their ears are long which concentrates the scent on the nose. Their bodies are designed for endurance, an essential asset when following any scent trail - a major asset for one of the Hunting Dogs. The Bloodhound, as pictured above, was bred originally to hunt wolves, deer and large game. Man's requirements changed with new hunting technology and the dogs role changed to that of a police dog to track missing people, fleeing suspects, or escaped prisoners.

Hunting Dogs Evolution & History - The Hound Dog Breeds

Hunting Dogs in the Hound Dog Group have been bred to chase (or hound) a quarry by sight or smell, or a combination of both senses. The Sight hound Hunting Dogs have exceptional eyesight, combined with the speed and stamina necessary to catch the intended prey once seen, typical examples being the Greyhound and the Whippet. Hunting Dogs which rely strongly on the sense of smell to follow the trail of a prey, such as the Bloodhound, quite literally follow their noses, speed and eyesight is of less importance.

Hunting Dogs Evolution - Sporting Dog Breeds - Retrievers, Pointers and Setters


Hunting dogs categorised in the Sporting Dog group hunt by air scent, as opposed to ground scent. The Retriever, Pointer and Setter dogs were bred selectively which resulted in them fulfilling the needs of man. Hunting Retriever dogs find and return killed game to the hunter. Some Retrievers are especially equipped, for instance with a water-repellent coat and webbed feet, for retrieving downed waterfowl. Hunting Pointer dogs stand in front of their quarry, with their nose and body rigidly still , thus directing (or pointing) the hunter to its location. Hunting Setter dogs were originally trained to set, or crouch, in front of game preventing the escape of the quarry. The hunter would make the capture with a net. The picture above demonstrates how other breeds of Hunting Dogs actually chased their quarry into a waiting net. The African Basenji Dog was used for such hunting. They chased their prey, such as small antelopes, into hunting nets or out into the open where their quarry could be shot with a gun or a bow and arrow. Man's own evolution and development in technology moved the traditional hunting methods away from primitive tools and nets - the Hunting Sporting Dogs were then called the Hunting Gundogs.

Hunting Dogs History and Evolution - The Terrier Dog Breeds


Hunting Dogs categorised in the Terrier group were developed to hunt and kill vermin. The vermin included rats, mice and other predatory animals such as foxes which might raid a farmer's produce and livestock. The very nature of these tasks required an energetic, tenacious, brave and determined Hunting dog and the Terrior breed was perfect for such work.

Evolution Hunting Dogs - The Otterhound


The Otter Hound - Otterhound and is a dog of considerable size and was bred originally to hunt the otter in order to ensure the trout supply in rivers. It's origins can be dated back for thousands of years and it is classified as one of the Hound Dog Group of Hunting Dogs. The above picture shows an Otter hound looking on at the hunters who have speared the luckless otter and have raised the animal out of the reach of the dogs. The picture also illustrates how the Otterhounds hunted in packs. The history and evolution of the various breeds of Hunting dogs continues today. The Otterhound, a scent hound, is a perfect example of this evolution process. The Otter Hound ( Otterhound ) verged close on extinction when its targeted quarry, the otter, was made a protected species.

The Hunting Dogs and their quarry
The Quarry of Hunting Dogs varied considerably from Fox Hunting to Coon Hunting and from Wolf Hunting to Deer Hunting. Listed below are some Hunting Breeds and their particular quarry:

Fox hunting dogs - American and English Foxhounds
Deer Hunting dogs - the Irish Wolfhound
Hog Hunting dogs - the American Staffordshire Terrier - see Bay Dogs
Wolf Hunting dogs - the Borzoi
Badger Hunting Dogs - the Basset Hound
Bird Hunting Dogs - the Sussex Spaniel
Rat Hunting dogs - the Cairn Terrier
Coon Hunting Dogs - the Black and Tan Coonhound
Bear Hunting dogs - the Neapolitan Mastiff
Elk (moose) Hunting dogs - the Norwegian Elkhound
Duck Hunting dogs - Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever
Rabbit and Hare Hunting dogs - the Beagle
Big Game Hunting dogs - the Rhodesian Ridgeback

Chesapeake Bay Retriever dogs

Fast Facts
Group classification: Sporting Country of origin: United States Date of origin: 19th century
Weight (M): 65 - 80 lb Height (M): 23 - 26" Life expectancy: 11 - 13 years
Weight (F): 55 - 70 lb Height (F): 21 - 24"

1.General Description of the Chesapeake Bay Retriever

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a hardy and resilient breed designed to retrieve waterfowl from cold waters, sometimes even breaking ice to do so, and the features of the dog reflect this purpose. The skull is round and broad with a medium stop, the scissor-bite jaws large enough to carry large birds with ease. The eyes are large and clear, amber in color, and convey an expression of intelligence. The neck, shoulders, back and chest are powerful and well muscled. The hindquarters are slightly higher than the forequarters and are exceptionally strong, making this dog a remarkable swimmer; webbed feet also help to propel this dog through the water. The tail is either straight or slightly curved, with moderate feathering. The coat is thick, short and oily – the oiliness of the coat is especially important in this breed, as it is essential to keeping the dog warm and dry when working in and around cold waters. The coat should be brown in color, and a Chessie that matches her surroundings in the field is to be especially prized.

2.Chesapeake Bay Retriever Temperament

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is the toughest and most independent of the retrieving breeds. Unlike the always-sociable Labrador Retriever, the Chesapeake is generally aloof around strangers and is protective of its home and family. Despite its somewhat distant character around strangers and other dogs, the Chessie is exceptionally affectionate toward its master and family. For an owner looking for the playful qualities inherent in the retrieving breeds as well as a family protector, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a fantastic choice. While the dog is happiest when it is able to swim and retrieve outdoors, it is also content to be at home with its family and tends to be calm and quiet indoors.

3.Caring for a Chesapeake Bay Retriever

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever needs daily exercise – a long walk, a challenging game or a swim will suffice. The breed can live outdoors but prefers to live inside with the family. The Chessie’s oily and wavy coat is easily maintained with weekly brushing and rarely requires washing; in fact, the water resistance of the coat can actually be damaged by over-washing. Significant health concerns for the breed include canine hip dysplasia and gastric torsion; less common problems include progressive retinal atrophy and hypothyroidism.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

Fast Facts

Group classification: Toy	Country of origin: England	Date of origin: 17th century
Weight (M): 13 - 18 lb	Height (M): 12 - 13"	Life expectancy: 10 - 14 years
Weight (F): 13 - 18 lb	Height (F): 12 - 13"

General Description of the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

Built along the lines of a small gundog, the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel has expressive, large, dark round eyes set in a slightly rounded skull. This member of the Toy Group is the smallest spaniel. The Cavalier has a tapered muzzle ending in a well developed nose with wide nostrils, and a flat head with a shallow stop. The dog's long ears are well feathered. Cavaliers naturally grow a moderately long lustrous coat that should be free of curl. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel come in four colors: Blenheim* — chestnut markings on a white background, often marked with a “Blenheim spot” of chestnut in the center of a white patch on its head; Tricolor — deep black markings on a white background; Ruby — a solid rich red color; Black and Tan — dark black with tan eyebrows, cheekbones, inside the ears, chest, legs, and under the tail. The Cavalier’s gait is unencumbered and elegant.

*named for the Blenheim palace of England.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Temperament

Charmingly affectionate, playful and intelligent, the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is ever ready to greet his owner with endearing devotion and a wagging tail. Developed as lap dogs, Cavaliers make terrific companions. Inherently easy going, these dogs can easily make friends with children and other animals. Cavaliers are active with strong sporting instincts that require regular exercise. Their “sporting instinct” can get them into trouble, as they tend to give chase to anything that moves. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is friendly, outgoing and nonconfrontational. Cavaliers make fantastic therapy dogs and are a delight to those in nursing homes and healthcare centers that wait for their periodic visits to share doggy kisses and loving caresses.

Caring for a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

Naturally smart and clean, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels are easy to train and groom. They are adaptable in their exercise needs and are equally happy curled up on the couch or accompanying their owner on long walks in any weather. When exercising with a Cavalier they should either be leashed or in a fenced yard because they never become “street-wise” and will chase heedlessly after dangerous targets. Nevertheless, these dogs are highly intelligent and are gentle and easy to train in all other respects. Trustworthy with children, the Cavalier needs the same loving, consistent discipline as a child. Moderately active indoors, Cavaliers make good apartment dwellers. Grooming requires a once a week brushing and occasional baths. Cavaliers are average shedders. Check the dog’s ears regularly. They do not do well when left alone for long periods, and the companionship of another dog or a cat is recommended in households where no one is home during the day. Cavalier King Charles Spaniels are house dogs – they are too small to protect themselves when alone outdoors, especially while no one is home. Known health issues include canine hip dysplasia, patellar luxation, entropion, mitral valve insufficiency, and syringomelia.

Other doda : chihuahua dogs

Cardigan Welsh Corgi

Fast Facts
Group classification: Herding Country of origin: Wales Date of origin: Antiquity
Weight (M): 30 - 38 lb Height (M): 11 - 13" Life expectancy: 12 - 14 years
Weight (F): 25 - 34 lb Height (F): 10 - 12"


1.General Description of the Cardigan Welsh Corgi

Long and low with a fox-like appearance and large erect ears, the Cardigan Welsh Corgi is the Corgi with a tail. The Cardigan has a low-set, long, brushy tail and an elongated body supported by very short legs. The intelligent Corgi is powerful, capable of both endurance and speed, handsome, and sturdily built but not coarse. The head is broad between the ears and tapers to the dark eyes; blue eye color is allowed only in blue merle dogs. The tapered muzzle ends with a black pointed nose. The medium length dense double coat comes in a number of colors ranging from all shades of sable, red, brindle, and blue merle or black. White flashings are common on the chest, neck, legs, underparts, tail tip, muzzle, and as a blaze on head. Some Corgis sport black masks along with some ticking or freckles. The Cardigan Welsh Corgi has a free and smooth gait exhibiting agility.

2.Cardigan Welsh Corgi Temperament

Cardigan Welsh Corgis are known for their personality. This dog wants to be involved with his family; full of fun, they will reward their family with devotion and sensible affection. Like most herding dogs, caring for “their people” comes naturally to the devoted, alert, and dependable Cardigan. As a result, Cardigans can be standoffish with strangers and other dogs, especially if they perceive a threat. Corgis sometimes attempt to herd children by nipping at their heels, but they are easily trainable and can be taught not to do this. Cardigans are good alarm barkers and some tend to bark a lot.

3.Caring for a Cardigan Welsh Corgi

Grooming the Cardigan Welsh Corgi’s medium-length all-weather coat is easy. A once a week brushing removes dead hair, and since the Corgi tends to be a rather clean animal it rarely needs a bath. Very young puppies have drop ears that will usually come up on their own; sometimes they will require temporary taping to support them. Lift a Cardigan by placing a hand behind the front legs and use the other to support the hindquarters, and do not let your Corgi jump off furniture or run down stares; proper handling of these dogs is important, as their backs can be fragile. Corgis have stamina and need regular exercise to burn off excess energy. They love walks and romps, and with exercise can be quite athletic with unexpected ball-chasing speed. Corgis are comfortable in most housing situations. The Cardigan Welsh Corgi is an exceptionally healthy breed; canine hip dysplasia is almost never clinical, and on extremely rare occasions the dog may develop DM (degenerative myelopathy).

Canaan Dog

The Canaan Dog is also known as: Kalef K'naani, Kelev Cana'ani

Fast Facts
Group classification: Herding Country of origin: Israel Date of origin: Antiquity
Weight (M): 45 - 55 lb Height (M): 20 - 24" Life expectancy: 12 - 13 years
Weight (F): 35 - 45 lb Height (F): 19 - 23"

1.General Description of the Canaan Dog

A sturdy dog of medium-size built along the lines of a racing hunter rather than a heavy plodder, the Canaan Dog is the only breed originating in Israel and is a member of the Herding Group. Squarely proportioned without extremes, the Canaan moves with athletic agility and an efficient ground-covering trot vital for survival in the wild. The head is wedge-shaped with prick ears, the nose is dark and slightly slanted, and almond-shaped eyes are dark brown and have an alert expression. The front legs are straight with round hard padded cat-like feet. The bushy tail curls over the back when the dog is excited or alert. The medium length double coat is harsh, straight, and lies flat. Canaan Dogs range in color from red to sand or may be black or white. They are often solid colored but may have white trim on the chest, feet, and tail tip; conversely, they may have a patched pattern of white with black or brown. In all color patterns there may be some ticking. The majority of US dogs are white and black, probably because the first four imports were white with black masks and patches.

2.Canaan Dog Temperament

While reserved and aloof with strangers, the Canaan Dog is inquisitive, loyal, and loving with his family. The dog gets along well with pets and other dogs. This is a highly territorial guard dog as well as a vocal watchdog. The Canaan Dog tends to be a one-person dog or one-family dog. Highly intelligent, the Canaan Dog is easily trained and excels in obedience, agility, tracking, and sentry work. They may also demonstrate the herding instinct. Somewhat independent, they require an owner who is firmly in charge.

3.Caring for a Canaan Dog

The Canaan Dog is a worker by nature, and needs plenty of physical and mental exercise everyday. Herding exercises, games, or vigorous training will help to satisfy these needs. Because Canaans are very defensive of their territory, they need socialization when young. If introduced as a puppy to people (especially children) and other dogs, their tendencies toward aloofness and dog aggression will be diminished. Canaans are moderately active indoors and can reside in an apartment if they get enough exercise. However, a sizeable yard would be preferable. Their dense undercoat protects the dog from extreme temperatures, whether hot or cold — so they can live outdoors, but they also make wonderful housedogs. Grooming requires little more than a weekly brushing. An extremely healthy breed, the Canaan rarely needs to see the vet and has no documented hereditary illnesses or conditions.

Dog Paw Care

Your dog's footpads are the toughest part of his skin, and absorb the shock and pressure on his joints from standing, walking and running. Due to their function, paws are prone to injury and dog paw care should be a part of your regular care routine.
I briefly inspect Zoe and Fritz's paws each evening as I outlined in an earlier post about getting your puppy used to being handled. It doesn't take long and is as simple as ensuring nothing is stuck between their toes and their pads are clean and free from mud and dirt.
Typical paw injuries include: abrasions, lacerations, punctures, burns and blisters to the footpad, dry, cracked pads and foreign objects lodged between the toes.

Symptoms of a paw injury: these include bleeding, limping, holding the injured paw off the ground, discoloration of the pad (difficult to see if the paws have a very dark pigmentation) and excessive licking and/or chewing of the paw.
If your dog is showing any of these symptoms, then you'll want to identify what is causing the problem. Be extremely careful handling an injured dog, even the most mild mannered dog can bite if he's in pain and feels threatened by you touching him. Putting a muzzle on your dog is a good way to protect yourself from a bite.
Treating abrasions, lacerations and punctures: the footpads contain a great number of blood vessels, so even a superficial paw cut can result in what seems like a serious amount of bleeding. The bleeding should stop relatively soon after you've treated the wound; if it doesn't, then contact your vet.
For abrasions and small cuts, clean the wound yourself with an anti-bacterial wash ([tag]chlorhexidine[/tag] diluted with water will suffice) and wrap the paw with a light bandage.
You will want to stop your dog from licking and chewing at the bandage - a good way to do this is to put an Elizabethan collar around his neck for a few days.
Your dog sweats through his footpads, so the bandage will become moist within a couple of days. Moist bandages slow down the rate of healing and can result in infection, so you should change the bandage every two to three days.
Depending on how deep the cut is, it should heel within a few days; if it doesn't and you are unsure how to carry on treating the wound, contact your vet.
With deep paw lacerations, I'd recommend you take your dog to your vet for treatment. He will suture (stitch) the pad, bandage it and probably apply a splint. Without the splint, every time your dog puts his paw to the ground, the pad will spread due the weight of your dog's body being applied to the paw - when this happens it's likely that the cut will open up again.
Burns and blisters: your dog's pads can easily burn and blister as a result of walking on a hot pavement or through hot sand.
If you look at your dog's pad there will either be a loose flap of the pad itself, or this will have becopme detached leaving a red, ulcerated patch.
The best thing you can do is to apply anti-bacterial wash and cover the paw with a bandage until the pad has healed. If your dog has a loose flap of pad you'll need to wait for this to come off, which it will do on its own or you can ask your vet to trim it off.
Dry, Cracked Pads: you dog's pads are naturally rough, they have to be so he has traction when he needs to turn quickly, sprint off and stop quickly. If the pads become cracked they are prone to collect dust and debris, which can cause further injury to the pad. Pads can be moisturised using a special footpad cream.
Try to avoid using human hand moisturiser as this tends to soften the pads to much and makes them prone to injury.
Foreign objects between the toes: the most common culprits are burrs, small stones and pieces of glass, dried mud and also your dog's matted fur.These can usually be removed with a pair of tweezers and matted fur can be trimmed back.
When to go to the vet: always contact your vet if you are unsure of the cause of the injury, you are not comfortable treating the injury yourself, the wound does not appear to be healing, or if your dog's paw becomes swollen.
Your vet will either recommend further treatment you can carry out at home or suggest you visit the clinic.
Prevention: sometimes accidents will happen, but to reduce the risk of a footpad injury keep your home and yard clear of sharp objects, take care when you are out to avoid hazards such as broken glass and other debris on pavements, walking on gravelled areas for a long period of time, hot pavements in the summer and road salt in the winter.
The best way to think about it is, would you be happy walking barefoot on that ground? If not, don't make your dog walk on it.

Dog Distemper Symptoms

Canine distemper virus (CDV) is an airborne type and highly contagious viral disease that is often fatal and can affects the respiratory, urogenital, gastrointestinal, optic nerves and central nervous systems.
Canine distemper is closely related to measles in human so if human has vaccine and immune to measles then they will also has immune to dog distemper. However there is a report that humans can possibly be infected with dog distemper disease but will show no signs or symptoms at all.
Large number of animal species and weasel-like animals such as lion, ferrets, foxes, wolves, coyotes, skunks, wild hogs, badgers, raccoons, pandas etc. can also develop this type of diseases. Dog distemper cannot affect or pass on to cat except other problems like skin irritations, mange, fleas, etc. Cat distemper is known as feline panleukopenia.
Puppies between 3-6 month of age are most susceptible to diseases infection and may suffer from more serious illness conditions such as inflammatory illness of the lung (pneumonia) and acute inflammation of the brain (encephalitis) when compare with older dogs. Around 15 percent of canine inflammatory central nervous system diseases are caused by canine distemper virus (CDV).
Nursing puppies has lower chance of CDV infection because a certain degree of immunity is passed down to puppies by colostrum-milk but this can only be done by giving colostrum-milk during the first 8-24 hours after birth.
Older dogs has little or no opportunity to become infected or exposed to the CDV virus because of the immunity build up but however there is a case that 7-8 years old dog has been infected with distemper.
Seasons has direct effects on the spread of dog distemper virus. Summer season and warm weather can force CDV to become dormantand lower their prevalence rate while CDV can be most virulent during early spring, fall and winter season.
Dog distemper incubation period ranges from 3-21 days in approximation and may be longer depend on other factors such as seasons, temperature etc.

Dog distemper symptoms

Early signs and symptoms of dog distemper

• fever
• loss of appetite (anorexia)
• mild eye inflammation (usually last two day)
• temperature rise to above 103 degree fahrenheit
• depression
• nasal discharge
• discharge from eye (conjunctivitis)

Dogs will have following symptoms when CDV affects theintestinal tract.

• vomiting
• diarrhea
• loss of appetite
• suddenly weak
• lethargy

Dogs will have following symptoms when CDV affects the lungs and upper respiratory tract.

• coughing
• sneezing
• vomiting
• green discharge from nostril
• discharge eye (conjunctivitis)
• diarrhea
• cough and labored breathing (pneumonia)
• runny nose (rhinitis)
• fever (usually unnoticed)

Dogs will have following symptoms when CDV affects the brain and spinal cord (encephalomyelitis), secondary bacterial infections.

• seizures
• muscle incoordination (ataxia)
• uncontrollable muscle twitch (myoclonus)
• hard pad disease
• depression
• abnormal increase in sensitivity to stimuli of the senses including hearing, tasting, feeling sense (hyperesthesia)
• partial or incomplete paralysis (paresis)
• deterioration of mental abilities

Dog Diabetes Symptoms

Dogs suffer from many ailments the same way as human do and diabetes is one of them.
Female dogs have nearly twice the risk of developing diabetes when compare with male canine. Middle-old age dog also have chance of developing this diseases.
Other factors that cause this illness is poor diet for a long time, obesity, cortisone treatments, genetic predisposition and stress etc.

Dog diabetes symptoms

• Suddenly weak
• Unable to sleep
• Low energy level
• Lethargy
• Dehydration
• Excessive water consumption (polydipsia)
• Frequent urination (polyuria)
• Increased appetite (polyphagia)
• Weight loss
• Abdominal pain
• Depression
• Vomiting
• Rapid breathing
• breath have an odor of acetone
• Liver malfunction
• Cataracts (cloudy eyes)

Diagnosis

Dog diabetes mellitus can be detect by doing urine analysis first then follow by blood tests. At first veterinarian will check your dog health to cut out other types of diseases that can cause false diagnosis. Veterinarian will then analyse urine for glucose because a diabetic dog will be spilling glucose into its urine. If an evidence of infection in the urinary tract is found then veterinarian will do the blood check to determine the level of sugar in blood. Normal blood sugar level for most dogs is around 70 - 150 mg/dl and dog that developed diabetes will have blood sugar level above 200 mg/dl.