Search in this site

12/12/12

Dog : Guarding Furniture

How can I stop my dog from guarding furniture? Why does my dog do this?

When a dog jumps up on a couch, chair, table, stairs (whatever it may be) and growls when you come near him, touch him, or protest when you ask him to get down, the dog is telling you he owns it. This behavior must be stopped or this will most certainly lead to biting.

First, let’s look at what it means to the dog. When a dog behaves like this, he is telling you he owns that particular spot. A dominant dog will often seek out high places to watch over his domain, claiming the place as his own. He's communicating with you that he is the boss and he is demanding you respect his space. As anyone approaches they must ask permission to be there. The dog will growl, and eventually snap and bite, in order to correct YOU. He is telling you, as his subordinate, to leave the area, or to get his permission to be there. First comes growling, and later will surely come biting, because this is how a dominant dog communicates; they set a "rule." Your dog is not doing this because he is mean, he is doing this because he wants and/or thinks, he is the boss of your house. The top dog owns everything and makes the rules. This is a primal instinct hardwired into your dog’s brain. It is because of this instinctual behavior, when one owns a dog, the dog owns nothing. Everything must belong to the human, from the furniture to his toys to his food bowl. You, as his leader, will make all of the decisions. You, as the human, own the furniture, and you, as the human, will decide who can and cannot sit on it, and when.

Keeping a Dog OFF the Furniture


Dogs enjoy furniture for the same reasons we do. Some humans enjoy lounging around on the floor, but furniture in homes is certainly common and much used. Also like humans, many dogs have joint problems that make lying on the floor painful.

If you're not going to allow the dog on the furniture, provide a bed with the right padding and warmth for the dog's needs. It doesn't have to be expensive. You can buy egg-crate foam intended for human mattress pads, cut it to the right size, and wrap it with an old sheet for a cool-seeking dog, or use an old blanket for a warmth-seeking dog. For some dogs you'll need warmth for part of the year and coolness for part of the year.


The Right Start

Once a dog forms the habit of getting up on furniture, change is difficult. If you want to keep your dogs off the furniture, your best bet is to start EVERY puppy and new dog in your home with "off the furniture" as the CONSISTENT rule. This means everyone in the family cooperates in keeping the dog off the furniture. Just one uncooperative person can ruin the training, and create a situation unfair to the dog. 

Do not leave the puppy or dog alone around furniture until training is complete. Someone must supervise, just as you will be doing anyway for housetraining and to teach the dog to chew only dog toys, not inappropriate items.
Be gentle when removing the dog from furniture. It's best not to touch the dog at all, other than to lift a puppy or small dog and place gently on the floor. Puppies and small dogs can be injured by jumping off furniture.

For larger dogs who won't be harmed by getting down on their own, it is safer and more effective to lure and/or cue the dog to get off the furniture, and reward the dog for being back on the floor. People often arouse aggression in dogs by angrily ejecting them from furniture, which can both trigger defense drives in dogs and cause pain if the dog has an orthopedic problem. Orthopedic problems, both inherited and injury related, are so common in dogs that this is a frequent cause of a dog reacting aggressively when forced to get up from a comfortable position and jump down to the floor.

If the dog is adult and new to your home, consider keeping a leash on when teaching the dog to get off furniture in order to have good control. A head halter is an additional safeguard if the dog shows any tendency to react defensively.

Don't drag the dog off furniture with the leash. Induce the dog to return to the floor while you simply hold the leash, keeping it slack, with no tension pulling against the dog. The leash is simply a safety, "just in case." If the dog is off-leash, avoid grabbing the collar or otherwise physically forcing the dog. Either of those maneuvers can be dangerous.

Keep temper out of it. You're teaching the dog what you DO want, not scolding or punishing for the behavior you do not want. This approach will lead to everyone in the family eventually being able to remind the dog about furniture when necessary without risking a defensive reaction from the dog.

Remember that you need a place for the dog to comfortably rest. You're teaching the dog WHERE to rest, not just WHERE NOT to rest. So have the comfy bed in place. The place for it is near the family-which means you may need several comfy resting places for the dog-so that obeying you does not place the dog in social isolation. Social isolation is punishment to a dog, and you want doing the right behavior to be rewarding.

Reward the dog in the chosen resting place. Do this both when you have just cued the dog to go to the place, and also when you notice the dog has gone to that place without a cue. Use tiny treats, special chew toys, praise, petting, toys with food inside them, and other rewards your dog can enjoy while resting on the bed.


If you do this training right from the start, a puppy will never develop the habit of getting up on furniture. A dog new to your home is also more "teachable" about things like this right at first, because so much is new to the dog that there's a special openness to learning new ways, new rules.

Oops, A Habit


When a dog has already formed the habit of getting up on furniture, changing that is more challenging than setting the desired habit from the start. The dog will probably always have some tendency to get up on furniture when no one is around. You will need to keep the dog from having access to the furniture when you're not supervising, for quite some time, and possibly even for life.

Rooms with furniture the dog likes to get on-bedrooms, living room, possibly family rooms-can be gated off so that the dog can't go in there without a human to supervise. Alternatively the dog could be crated, but if furniture is the only reason, gating off the areas gives the dog more room to move joints and exercise muscles and can be healthier than crating.

Some people find a Scat Mat (you can buy it through pet catalogs) will keep a dog off the sofa. It gives the dog a shock. Obviously, you can't have the Scat Mat on the sofa if you're using it. Electric shock also carries the risk of "superstitious behavior," too, with a dog developing fear or aggression toward something experienced at the same time as the shock.

A plastic carpet runner--the kind intended to lie over the carpet to protect it, like at an open house when a house is for sale-can help. Turn the carpet runner upside down, so the plastic points that were intended to grip the carpet are instead pointed up, making an uncomfortable surface for a dog.

Some dogs like to get up high to see things. If this is the case, it can help to either block the dog's view from the furniture, or provide a better view elsewhere. Maybe move the furniture.

Compromise


A popular solution to this problem is to use slipcovers on the furniture. They could be formal ones, beautifully made, or just bed sheets, comforters, blankets, etc. tossed over the sofa to keep it from picking up dog hair and dirt. Then, people may go ahead and allow the dog on the furniture. It's even possible to teach a dog to wait for the sheet to be put on the furniture before getting up there.

Another solution some people use is to get a piece of furniture for the dog, the only one the dog is allowed to use. You can keep an old sofa for this purpose. This furniture has to be in the area of the house where the dog WANTS to be, not somewhere isolated from where the rest of the family hangs out.

Why?


In an all-adult household where every family member happily welcomes the easy-tempered dog on furniture, it might seem unnecessary to keep the dog off the furniture. But before making this choice, take careful thought.

Puppies should not be allowed on furniture until their adult temperaments become evident, during or after puberty. At that point it will become clear that some of them should NEVER be allowed on furniture, due to unsuitable temperament.

Puppies and small dogs can be injured jumping off furniture. If you do decide to allow your small dog on furniture, you'll need to either teach the dog to wait to be lifted down, or provide a ramp and train the dog to consistently use it.

Houses with children are well advised to keep dogs off furniture. Young kids running up to beds startle dogs out of sleep and have their faces in exactly the right place for a bite to cause lifelong disfigurement. If you don't have young children, what about grandchildren or other relatives, children of friends, etc.? If not now, what about 5 or 10 years from now when you still have this dog and habits are set?

If there is anyone in the household who is fussy about dog hair on clothing, or you expect to entertain guests you wouldn't want to offend by covering their clothes with dog hair, those are reasons to teach the dog to stay off furniture. Remember that changing the rules later is very hard on the dog. It's more humane to train the way you will need things to be later, right from the start.

Though you might not imagine your dog could ever have to adjust to a new home, it happens to the vast majority of dogs during their lives. Teaching the dog to stay off furniture gives the dog a better chance of a future home being a permanent home, in the event this ever happens.

"Off the furniture" is a good habit for people to teach their dogs, especially puppies. You can easily change later if the dog's temperament and the circumstances in the home make it reasonable for the dog to share the family's furniture. It's unusual to find a dog who won't learn to get up on furniture when the family desires this change, even after years of the dog never doing so.

How to Install a Pet Door in a Wood Door

Dog Door

Pet lovers now have a new ally: pet door. Installing a pet door (cat or dog door) into your front house door, will ease your life, allowing your pet to go and come when it wants, with no need for you personally to be forced to open the door. This little door allows your pet to get out without help at any time of day or night. Cats and dogs are very intelligent animals and assertive, so no need to worry that they will not find the way to home. They just need a way to access inside the house and nothing else.


Usually, a pet door comes as a kit with all the necessary hardware. In this kit is included a frame that can be installed over the hole cut into your front door. Of course, models and types vary widely, but in principle, the system is everywhere the same. Such a door is actually a flap-hinged door that is mounted at the entrance of the house. Your pet will push up this flap in its way out, and the flap will automatically swing back into its place once your little quadruped friend is through. This device is generally, found in any pet shop or hardware store in a wide range of shapes, sizes and colors, depending on your pet (cat or dog).

The installation is not difficult and you can do it yourself with some common hand tools.

Materials & Tools

- Pet Door Kit; Level; Pencil; Masking Tape; Metal File;
- Jig Saw; Drill; Drill Bits; Wrench; Hacksaw.

1| So the first thing you must consider is the size of the animal. Make sure that it fits the body relatively easily by opening the door. Measure your pet size, especially its height. The bottom of the pet door should be two inches below the animal’s chest. Make a sign with your pencil at this height in the middle of your wooden front door.

NOTE: If your pet door is installed on a wood door with a panel, set the pet door bottom several inches over the rail at the bottom of your wood door.

2| Place the template bottom that came with the kit with its center to the front door at the mark made by you. However, make sure the template is level. Trace the inside outline of this template and then remove it from your front door.

Cat Door


3| Take your drill and make ½-inch holes in all the four corners of the contour made by you. Make sure the holes do not go outside of the lines. Use a jigsaw and carefully cut along the outline.

4| Nest step is the installation of the inside frame of the pet door over the created hole. Use your level, square it, and then tape it in its place. Make the marks for the boltholes and remove the inside frame. Use a drill bit slightly bigger than the bolts, and drill the holes.

5| Finally, install the pet door-frame. Place the bolts through the holes. Place the outside door-frame over the door bolts and secure it using a wrench. Cut off the door bolts, which protrudes past the nuts. Use a hacksaw to do that. Now the door is ready to be used by your little friend.

Parvovirus Infection In Your Dog Parvo Virus Enteritis - CPV



  1. Where Did Parvovirus Come From ?
  2. Are There Unique Things About The Parvovirus That Make It Particularly Dangerous ?
  3. Is There More Than One Strain Of Dog Parvo ?
  4. Do Current Vaccines Protect Against All Strains Of Dog Parvo - Even The Newest Ones ?
  5. Does Parvo Appear To Be More Severe In Certain Breeds ?
  6. Is Parvovirus Today Primarily A Disease of Puppies and Adolescent Dogs ? 
  7. Can Pets Other Than Dogs Catch Parvo - What About Me ?
  8. Where Do Dogs Catch Parvo ?
  9. How Long Does The Virus Persist Where A Sick Dog Had Been ?
  10. What If I Have Decided To Get My Dog From An Animal Shelter ?
  11. How Long Might It Take After My Dog Is Exposed To Parvo For It To Appear ill ?
  12. What Is Happening Inside My Dog That Is Making It Feel So Bad ?
  13. If My Dog Catches Parvo, What Signs Will I See ?
  14. If My Vet Suspects That My Dog Has Parvo, What Tests Will The Vet Run ?
  15. Is Parvo Always Fatal ?
  16. What Treatments Will Help My Dog ?
  17. What Are Some Key Things My Vet Will Monitor To Tell How Well My Sick Dog Is Responding To Treatment ?
  18. Does My Puppy or Dog Need Special Care Once it Is Out of Danger And Recovering ?
  19. Is The Vaccine Against Parvo Effective ?
  20. Will My Other Pets Catch It ?
  21. At What Age Should My Puppy Be Vaccinated To Prevent Parvo ?
  22. My Puppy Got His Vaccinations – But He Still Caught Parvo - Why !!
  23. How Often Does My Adult Dog Need A Parvo Shot To Keep It Protected ?
  24. Is There An Alternative To Booster Vaccinations For My Adult Dog ?
  25. Can My Dog Catch Parvo More Than Once ?
  26. Are There Ways I Can Disinfect My Home And Yard After A Case of Parvo ?
  27. If I Decide To Get Another Dog, How Long Should I Wait ?
  28. What About The Parvo Cures I See For Sale On The Internet ?


There was a time, - not that long ago - that parvovirus of dogs did not exist - at least not in the developed Western World. Before 1967, distemper was our most serious viral disease of dogs. But in that year, alert veterinarians at Walter Reed Army Institute in D.C. discovered a new virus in the feces of military dogs that were suffering respiratory problems.  The vets named it minute virus of canines, or canine parvovirus 1 (CPV 1). By 1976 veterinarians realized that they had a new and highly dangerous disease to deal with. 

Since those early panic days, the number of dogs dying from parvo has decreased. That is due almost entirely to the superb protection our anti-parvo vaccines produce (although the virus ran out of susceptible adult dogs with no immunity as well). But the virus is still out there throughout the World, taking advantage of unprotected dogs that either received no vaccine or received it improperly.

Dog Birthday Cake Recipes

Dog Birthday Cake Recipes

Peanut Butter Delight: Dog Birthday Cake


Margaret Thatcher (Maggie) celebrates her fourth birthday with a little Peanut Butter Delight. Note: She only ate half!
  • 1 cup white or whole wheat flour 
  • 1 tsp baking soda 
  • 1/4 cup peanut butter 
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil 
  • 1 cup shredded carrots 
  • 1 tsp vanilla 
  • 1/3 cup honey 
  • 1 egg

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C)

Mix together flour and baking soda. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Pour into a ring mold sprayed with a nonstick spray. Bake for approximately 40 minutes.

Once cake is cool, frost cake with low fat cottage cheese and decorate with carrot pieces. Store in refrigerator for up to one week, or slice thinly and freeze in individual plastic baggies.


Peanut Butter Delight

Banana Carob Chip Dog Birthday Cake

  • 2 cups water
  • 2 ripe bananas
  • 1/8 tsp vanilla
  • 3 cups whole wheat flour
  • 1/2 Tbs baking powder
  • 1 egg
  • 2 Tbs honey
  • 1/2 cup carob chips

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C)

In a mixing bowl combine water, bananas, vanilla, egg and honey. Add whole wheat flour and baking powder. Mix well. Pour mixture into an 8-inch cake pan sprayed with a nonstick spray. Sprinkle carob chips on top. Bake for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.

Decorating suggestion: Make both the Cinnamon and Carob frostings (below), then ice the cake with one, and use the other as a decorative trim.

Cinnamon Frosting:

Combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:
12 ounces nonfat cream cheese (room temperature)
3 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp honey

Carob Frosting:

Combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:
12 ounces nonfat cream cheese (room temperature)
3 tsp carob
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp honey

Makes One 8-inch cake.


Banana Peanut Dog Birthday Party Cake

  • 2/3 cup ripe mashed bananas
  • 1/2 cup softened safflower margarine
  • 3 large eggs
  • 3/4 cup Water
  • 2 cups unbleached white flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 2 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/2 cup chopped peanuts

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C)

In mixing bowl, beat together mashed banana and butter until creamy. Add eggs and water. Beat well. Stir in dry ingredients. Beat until smooth. Add nuts. Spoon batter evenly into oiled and floured bundt pan. Bake for about 35 minutes. Cool on wire rack 5 minutes, remove from pan, replace on rack and cool.

To make Banana Carob frosting, combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:

2 cups ripe banana, mashed
1 Tbs butter
6 Tbs carob powder
2 tsp vanilla
3 Tbs Unbleached flour
1 tsp cinnamon

Sprinkle with chopped peanuts and enjoy!!


Dog Birthday Cake Frosting Recipes


~ Cinnamon Frosting ~

Combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:

12 ounces nonfat cream cheese (room temperature)
3 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp honey

Carob Frosting

Combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:

12 ounces nonfat cream cheese (room temperature)
3 tsp carob powder
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp honey

Banana Carob Frosting

Combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:

2 cups mashed ripe banana
1 Tbs butter
6 Tbs carob powder
2 tsp vanilla
3 Tbs Unbleached flour
1 tsp cinnamon

Dog Birthday Party Planning Guide

If there’s ever a day to spoil your dog, it’s on your dog's birthday. Throwing your dog a birthday party is a fun way to celebrate your four-legged friend and to say “thank you” for being a beloved companion. It’s an excuse to rally your dog’s furry friends, to decorate your home in paw prints, and to purchase some special treats for your dog and its pals. From the theme to the guests and decorations, we show you how to plan the perfect birthday party for your pup. Follow the steps below to make your dog’s big day a special and memorable one.
Dog Birthday Party DateHave the party on your dog’s birthday or on a day surrounding it that works best for you. If you have an adopted dog and aren’t sure of its actual birth date, celebrate the day that you first took your dog home from the shelter or wherever you got it from.

Dog Birthday Party Theme


Pick a theme that best represents your dog. You can coordinate your theme with the type of dog breed that you have. If you have a Dalmatian, for example, decorate your party with black and white party favors. If you have a poodle, throw a “Pink Poodle” party. You can also model your dog’s birthday bash after a famous dog—have a Scooby-Doo or Snoopy themed party. Have a luau party and put dog-friendly leis on guests as they arrive or do a Western theme and have dogs come wearing bandanas around their necks.

Dog Birthday Party Location


When planning the location for your dog’s birthday, it’s best to find a grassy outdoor area such as a backyard. Make sure that the yard is fenced in so off-leash dogs won’t be able to run away. Choose a location that has a nice open area for the dogs to play safely as well as a shaded spot for resting. You can also have your dog’s friends meet up at a dog park or dog beach. Another option is to rent out a dog-friendly space, such as a room at a doggie day care facility.
Dog Birthday Party DecorationsDraw paw prints with sidewalk chalk outside of your home to greet your guests. Pick out cute bowls to hold treats for your dog’s friends. Hang up photos of your dog around the party. Purchase party hats for your dog’s friends to wear. Draw bones and paw prints on balloons and tie them to tables and chairs around the yard. Throw a dog-print tablecloth down and dress up the room with crepe paper and garland. If you have a theme party, coordinate your decorations to match (i.e., use traditional green, purple, and gold colors for a Mardi Gras birthday bash).

Guests

Think about your dog’s network of playmates. Make sure that everyone you invite is neutered or spayed, up to date on vaccinations, and well socialized. Refrain from inviting dogs that have aggression issues and make sure you have enough humans on site to manage the number of doggie guests so that the dogs will be well supervised at all times.

Dog Birthday Party Invitations

Purchase dog birthday invitations online or from a nearby pet store. Make your own by cutting stationery in the shape of bones. Include a photo of your pet inside along with the date, time, and location of the party. Make sure you note any special directions such as items to bring or theme requirements inside the invitations. You can also send out an email invitation such as an Evite to the human owners of the guests invited.
Dog Birthday Party Food

Make sure to have plenty of fresh water on hand for your dog and its friends to sip during play breaks. Put dog treats in bowls on the table to be distributed throughout the party. Pick up a canine birthday cake at a nearby pet store or whip up a quick one at home. Make sure to serve finger foods, drinks, and snacks for the humans attending the party as well.


Entertainment


Fill the party with a variety of toys, balls, and Frisbees for your canine guests to play with. Purchase interactive games for dogs to try their hand at with the help of their owners. Have humans show off their dog’s talents and have a “Best Trick” contest. Set up a backyard obstacle course and have owners take turns navigating their dogs through it.
Party favors

Give your guests little bags of goodies upon their exit. Fill decorative bags with a variety of treats. Throw a toy or a ball into the bag. Let your dog’s guests take their party hats home as a souvenir. Take pictures at the party and email them out to guests after the event.
Safety tips/Things to keep in mind:

If small children are invited to the party, reach out to the owners to make sure their dogs do well with kids. Speak with dog owners regarding dietary restrictions before feeding treats to guests. Have guests’ veterinarian information on hand in case of an incident and keep first aid items nearby. Provide owners with plenty of bags for cleaning up poop and purchase stain remover in case one of the dogs has an accident. Keep an eye on the party guests at all times. Have a separate area gated off to contain dogs that aren’t playing well with others so as to avoid incidents. Make sure that you don’t have anything out that dogs can get into and keep all people food away from canine guests.

If you have more ideas for throwing your dog an unforgettable party, please share them in the Comments section below
.


Distemper in Dogs

About Distemper

Canine distemper is a highly contagious and sometimes fatal disease that is seen in dogs worldwide. Though its incidence has diminished greatly due to vaccination, distemper cases and outbreaks are still seen sporadically.

Cause

Canine distemper is caused by the canine distemper virus. This virus can also infect several other species including ferrets and wild animals such as coyotes, foxes, wolves, skunks, and raccoons. Animals usually become infected by direct contact with virus particles from the secretions of other infected animals (generally via inhalation). Indirect transmission (i.e., carried on dishes or other objects) is not common because the virus does not survive for long in the environment. The virus can be shed by dogs for several weeks after recovery.

Risk Factors

Puppies under four months of age (before vaccinations are fully protective) and unvaccinated dogs are most at risk. Because canine distemper also occurs in wild animals, contact with wild animals may contribute to the spread of distemper to domestic dogs.

Signs and Symptoms of Distemper

Canine distemper causes symptoms in multiple body systems, including the gastrointestinal tract, respiratory tract, and the brain and spinal cord. The appearance of symptoms and course of distemper can be variable, ranging from very mild illness to fatal disease. Any of the following can be seen:
  • fever (often one episode a few days after infection that may not be noticed, followed by a second episode a few days later when the other symptoms begin to show up)
  • discharge from the eyes and nose
  • loss of appetite
  • lethargy
  • vomiting and diarrhea
  • coughing
  • labored breathing
  • hardening of footpads and nose (distemper has sometimes been called hardpad disease)
  • inflammation of various parts of the eye
  • secondary bacterial infections
  • neurological symptoms are variable
Neurological symptoms of distemper may not develop at all or develop later in the disease (sometimes even after several weeks). Neurological symptoms of distemper may include any of the following:
  • muscle twitching
  • weakness or paralysis
  • seizures (of any part of the body, but seizures that look as if the dog is chewing gum are unique to distemper)
  • uncoordinated movements
  • increased sensitivity to touch or pain

Diagnosis of Distemper

Diagnosis is based primarily on the the history and clinical signs. Because signs are variable and may take time to appear, and secondary infections are common, diagnosis can be complicated. Additionally, other infections can produce similar signs to distemper. A variety of laboratory tests can help confirm the diagnosis (and some may be done to rule out other infections).

Treatment of Distemper

There is no treatment specific to the distemper virus, so treatment involves managing the various symptoms and secondary infections. Even with treatment, distemper can be fatal. Treatment depends on the symptoms shown, and may include fluids to combat dehydration, medication to reduce vomiting, antibiotics and other medications to treat pneumonia, antibiotics for secondary infections, and anticonvulsants to treat seizures. Neurological symptoms may get progressively worse and not respond to treatment, and even with recovery some neurological effects may persist.

Prevention of Distemper

Vaccination is effective at preventing distemper. Puppies are typically vaccinated starting at 6 weeks of age and at regular intervals (every 2-4 weeks) until they are 14-16 weeks old (as with other vaccines, presence of antibodies received from the mother can interfere with vaccines so a puppy is not considered fully protected until the final vaccine in the series has been given). Vaccination should be repeated a year later, then at regular intervals. Your vet will discuss an appropriate vaccination schedule for your dog based on your dog's history and risk factors.

Until puppies have received all the vaccinations in the series (at 14-16 weeks) it is prudent to be careful about exposing them to unknown dogs (e.g., at dog parks) to avoid exposure to the virus as much as possible.

Home Care for a Dog with Distemper

Dogs suspected of having distemper should be isolated from other dogs. Other dogs in a household from which a dog has been diagnosed with distemper should be vaccinated if they are not currently vaccinated. The canine distemper virus does not typically survive long outside the body so thorough disinfection of the home is not as critical as with some other viruses (routine cleaning with any disinfectant should be sufficient). Check with your vet for recommendations on waiting times to introduce a new puppy to a household with a dog that has been diagnosed with distemper.

Please note: this article has been provided for informational purposes only. If your pet is showing any signs of illness, please consult a veterinarian as quickly as possible.

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog The Bang Performance

Difficulty: Hard


Great work! You've made it to the final trick. Your dog has mastered the basics now, moved on to harder and more advanced ones, and now you're ready to attempt Bang, the final, hardest, most extraordinary trick combination in this book. Now don't get discouraged before you even begin—it's not going to be easy, it will take a lot of work to master, but this is the single best show-stopper that's sure to leave your friends speechless. Your dog must be incredibly smart to have made it this far, and now he's just one trick away from knowing all 52. You can do it! Don't stop now!


A dog shows its teeth and growls, staring unblinking into a gun barrel. He stands protectively before its wounded master lying on the floor of a wet ally. It charges towards the gun. A muzzle-flash bolts in every direction. A lead bullet whisks through the air and strikes home. The dog stops in shock and its teeth fades from view.

It limps retreating from the gunman. It trips to the ground and crawls, crawls to its master. It reaches his side and whines. Rolls on its back, belly upturned, then is still.

A moment's pause. A voice in the sky authoritative and commanding deep and resonate over all things: "CUT" it says. Everything around flips with action, speeding movements in a whirlwind of excitement. The voice speaks again: "Check the gate."

The dog jumps to its paws and looks around, panting. A man chants over a headset to a person invisible. He pets the dog and feeds it a large treat. "Good boy, Max!" he says, "get ready for the next take, buddy."


Step 1: Tell your dog to limp, crawl, and play dead, clicking and treating after he performs each action.

Step 2: Now, give him all three commands again, this time keeping the treat until the end. Repeat several times.

Step 3: Now say "BANG!" before giving the three commands and while he is in his "play dead" position. Click and treat.

Step 4: Continue to practice this, eventually getting rid of your three initial commands so that he does all three together as soon as he hears "BANG!"

OUR EXPERIENCE

The biggest challenge here is the individual tricks themselves. Caspian had to be well-acquainted with each of the individual tricks, and so we began by drilling them over and over again. The hardest one of these, by far, was limp. Once he was able to perform this consistently, we began to string them together. Once you have the individual tricks down, putting them together isn't as much of a challenge. However, repetition is key, and if you're working on a trick such as Bang as a performance trick for your next barbeque, make sure you drill it over and over again in different parts of the house. We found that Caspian can perform a trick perfectly in one room—but if we try it in a different part of the house, he has trouble. When teaching tricks such as this one, teach in a wide variety of places. Be creative: maybe train some at a local dog park. If your dog can perform amidst all the distractions and interesting things going on around him, you've been highly successful.

TEACHING TROUBLE


My dog will respond, but it takes him too long to get it.
Work with your dog to obey you right as you give this command for a great performance. But if your dog is too excited when you want to show him off, you can still make things fun. If he doesn't respond to "Bang" right away, just shrug and say, "So sometimes I'm not that great of a shot."

Tip: "You could also add 'Speak' as a yelp of pain to make the demonstration even more thrilling!"

Dog Trick- Teach Your Dog To Play Dead

Difficulty: Moderate

This is a famous trick that many dog owners teach their dogs. There are two ways to teach this trick: the first is by catching the behavior with the clicker. Many dogs lay on their backs, especially if they're looking for a belly rub. If you notice your dog doing this often, click this behavior and then associate the action with the command, Play Dead. The second way of teaching this trick is by using the touch stick to shape your dog's behavior. This method is outlined below. Play Dead is a fun trick to teach, and can be used in conjunction with Limp and Crawl for the Bang performance:



Step 1: Have your dog lay down. Take your touch stick, or with your treat in hand, slowly guide it so that your dog moves into the 'Play Dead' position. Click and treat. Repeat until he gets into the 'Play Dead' position without help from the touch stick.

Step 2: Keep repeating the process while saying, "Play Dead!" See if he'll do it at your command.

Step 3: In different training sessions, shape and perfect the trick by only clicking when he is in the exact position you want him to be in (i.e., legs in the air, paws bent, unmoving, etc.).

OUR EXPERIENCE


When I taught Caspian this trick, I started by having him lay down. I slowly moved the touch stick saying softly, "Touch," from one side of his head to the other side to get him to roll onto his back. When he got onto his back, I clicked and treated. I repeated this several times until he understood that he had to roll onto his back to get his treat. I stopped using the touch stick at this point and instead used a hand signal (hold first three fingers out, rotating hand around) as he did his trick each time. At this point, I got picky. I would only treat if he was in the exact position I wanted, with his paws bent and his legs sticking up in the air. Each time he did this, I would click and treat, saying my command, "Play Dead" until he could respond to my command.

TEACHING TROUBLE


He stands up to touch the stick rather than roll over to do it.
This part of the training process depends on you. Be very gentle in your movements and commands. Move the touch stick around slowly as you say in a low voice, "T...o...u...c..h..." If you are slow and steady in your voice and actions, your dog's actions will be less reckless, too!

Tip: "Combine this trick with Limp and Crawl for the 'Bang' performance!"

Dog Trick- Teach Your Dog To Crawl

Difficulty: Moderate

The dog jumps over trenches and dodges humming bullets. The mud is blanketed with a sheet of barbed wire fence, mangled from explosions. He must escape the raining bullets, the thundering explosions. He drops to his belly and crawls underneath the barbed wire. Bullets fly and dent the ground. Clumps of dirt and rock cling to his fur. He crawls, scratches his muzzle on a barb, but still crawls. Crawls to safety.

Whether or not your dog is a movie dog like this one, crawl is an easy trick that yours should know. With it, you can teach all sorts of other tricks—as well as teach him to navigate obstacle courses and other tricks and games. Teaching this trick will also pave the way for teaching 


Step 1: Tell your dog to lay down.
Step 2: With treat in hand, coax your dog to move forward with the touch stick. Make sure he does so while in the down position.
Step 3: Repeat several times. Once your dog is crawling naturally, begin saying 'Crawl' before you click and treat.
Step 4: Try stepping back from your dog and giving him the command, 'Crawl.' Click and jackpot if he responds to 'Crawl.' If not, revert to previous steps.

OUR EXPERIENCE


Teaching Caspian to crawl was one of the first tricks we did when he was a puppy. I remember the very first trick we taught him was Touch, touching the touch-stick on command. The next tricks we taught him were sit and down. And, I believe, the trick that we taught after that was crawl. We wanted to put his new-found knowledge of the touch-stick to good use. Even though he was a puppy, and extremely prone to becoming distracted, he was able to learn this cute trick in only a few training sessions. We first had him lay down. We put the touch stick right in front of him and asked him to touch. I'm sure we expected him to crawl to the touch stick, but that's not what he did. Crawling is hard, so he jumped to his feet to touch the stick. We compensated, and the next time, positioned the touch stick only an inch in front of his nose. As he was lying there in the down position, he stretched forward to touch the stick. We clicked and gave him a really good treat. We continued this method, and gradually moved the touch stick further and further from him. Each time, he would inch forward, and before long, he was crawling to get the touch-stick.

TEACHING TROUBLE


Help! My dog won't crawl forwards to get the treat, but gets up from his "down" position.
Don't ever give him the treat if this happens. This is a trick where you have to exercise patience, and don't get too excited! If you act excited, your dog will get excited too. Make sure you have a great treat to lure and give him commands in low tones. If you have to, you can keep a hand on his body to discourage him from getting up.

Tip: "Use this for dance routines, funny comedy sketches, or to retrieve something in a cramped place too small for a human."

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog To Limp

Difficulty: Hard

This very well may be one of the hardest tricks to teach your dog, and is one many movie dogs learn and act out on the silver screen. Next to Jump Rope and Bang, it doesn't get much harder than this. Although teaching this trick can be frustrating at times, it is a momentous achievement once your dog learns it, and can bring joy and laughter to you and your family; not to mention guests and friends.


Step 1: Hook up your dog's leash to his collar and use it to pull his front dominant paw up - be very careful as you walk with him - click and treat when he walks one or two steps. 

Step 2: Keep doing this until he is successfully 'Limping' with the help of the leash.

Step 3: Try to encourage your dog to put less weight on his lifted paw. Over time use less and less force on the leash, and he will be able to limp on his own.

OUR EXPERIENCE


Teaching Caspian to limp was very frustrating at times. It took a lot of work, many training sessions, a whole bag full of treats, and many many hours. But it was well worth it. After teaching your dog this trick you can combine it with Crawl and Play Dead to give your guests a thrilling death scene (See Trick #52—Bang).

I started out by attaching his leash to his collar, and using it to support his paw, keeping it in the air. Then I held my clicker away, motioning him to walk to it. I clicked and treated as soon as he made a couple of steps forward. The downside to supporting his paw in this way, is that it may condition him to put more weight on that paw; the opposite of what you want. There are other methods you can try, such as putting a sock on the paw: usually dogs will try and raise that paw, feeling the unbalance. Whichever method you use, be consistent, but don't feel like you can't try new things if your dog just isn't getting it. When teaching this trick, keep in mind that teaching your dog to limp on command is one of the hardest things to do, so be patient, be consistent, and vary the reward.

TEACHING TROUBLE


He won't transition into lifting his paw on his own!
It may take a long time for your dog to understand what he needs to do. It takes a long time of determined work to get this trick, even if you have a smart dog. Keep working with him until he gets it right!

Tip: "Be patient! This trick can take months to perfect; don't rush it. Dogs learning this trick need several breaks because of the stress you're putting on his mind and body."

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog To Turn A Lightswitch On and Off

Difficulty: Hard 

This trick assumes that your dog is tall enough to reach a light switch when he jumps up to the wall. If you have a smaller dog, you can still do the trick, but will need a table or other platform for your dog to stand on while jumping up to reach the switch. I used a laser pointer to attract my dog to the lightswitch, but if you don't have a laser pointer, that's okay, the touch stick will work just as well. If you do use a laser pointer, make sure that it is a low wattage model, and keep it away from your dog's eyes. There are two parts to this trick: teaching your dog to turn on a light, and then teaching him to turn it off again.


The First Part: Turn On A Light


Step 1: Using either a laser pointer or touch stick, get your dog in the habit of jumping up to touch the light switch. It is best to have him jump up with his pads on the wall (instead of his claws) touching the switch with his nose. I used a laser pointer here, because I would play with it as a game, knowing that he would really go after it—even if it's on a wall.

Step 2: Using the clicker, begin clicking only when his nose pushes the light into the 'on' position. He will begin to realize the effect of his action, and expect a treat after Begin to only click when your dog begins and ends the trick by successfully turning the light on. He needs to understand that the trick is not two parts (jumping up on the wall, and hitting the switch) but one.

The Second Part: Turn It Off


Step 1: The first step is very similar to step one of teaching him to turn 'on' the light. Get your dog used to jumping up on the wall, but instead of his pads touching the wall, click when his paw hits the light switch.

Step 2: Begin clicking only when he successfully turns 'off' the light switch. Dogs will notice the change in light in the room, and will usually look expectantly when he successfully turns out the lights.

Step 3: Begin clicking only when your dog successfully completes the trick from beginning to end. He needs to learn that in order to be treated, he has to perform the trick in one sitting.

OUR EXPERIENCE


When I taught this trick, I used a laser pointer to get Caspian to jump up on the wall. Caspian loves to chase the laser around, and will drop everything to try to catch it. He now will even go after reflections and glints of light off of lamps, glasses, and other shiny objects. Because he gets excited like this, I thought it would be a good way to get him to do something that he wouldn't normally do.

TEACHING TROUBLE


My dog keeps tearing up my wall! 
To turn off the light, dogs are unable to do this with their nose, and must use their paw. Because of this, it is incredibly easy to receive scratch marks and torn wallpaper. If you use this trick a lot, you might want to consider installing clear plexi-glass around your light switch.

Tip: "Laser pointers are often a great way to motivate and excite your dog. It can also act as a reward."

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog To Bring You A Tissue

Difficulty: Moderate 

This is a great trick to do immediately after —Fetch A Drink. After your dog brings you a drink, you can then ask him to bring you a tissue, to wipe down the bottle. After learning this trick, you dog should be able to carefully pull out a single tissue, bring it to you, and then throw it away in the garbage bin. This is an incredible trick on its own, but paired with Fetch A Drink, it makes quite the showstopper.


The First Part: Bring A Tissue


Step 1: Set a tissue box on the ground. Tell your dog to "Take It." He may want to take the whole box - but when he takes one tissue from the box and pulls it out, click and treat.

Step 2: Have him continue to do this until he starts pulling them out on his own. Then, have him "Bring it" to you and "Drop it" in your hand. Click and treat.

Step 3: Continue to do this until he does all three commands without hesitation. Start saying, "Bring Me a Tissue" when he drops it in your hand.

The Second Part: Throw It Away


Step 1: Get out your waste basket. Give the tissue back to the dog and have him "Bring it" to the waste basket, "Dropping it" in. Click and treat.

Step 2: Keep doing this until he takes it, brings it, and drops it without problems or hesitating. Then, use the command "Throw it away" while he is dropping it in.

Step 3: Continue to practice this, just saying "Throw it away" instead of the three other commands, until he is able to throw away the tissue at your command.

OUR EXPERIENCE


This trick wasn't difficult for Caspian to learn. First, I showed him the tissue box and touched the tissue. "Take it," I said. He pulled one out. I clicked and treated. I did this again. And again! But the next time I had him "Take it" and "Bring it" to me. When he had brought it to me, I told him to "Drop It" in my hand. When he dropped it, he received a big treat! We did this several times until he knew exactly what to do.

In another session, we worked on throwing the tissue away. I had him bring me a tissue. Then, I "used it" and gave it back to him. Pointing towards the trashcan, I told him to "Drop it." I clicked and treated. The next time he did it, I used the "Throw it away" command. Soon, Caspian was able to bring me a tissue, and then take it back and throw it away in the trash!

TEACHING TROUBLE


He won't pull out the tissue! Try pointing to it and say, "Take It." If that doesn't work, encourage any good behavior that is close to what you want. If he touches the tissue, click and treat. Then say, "Take it." He'll probably understand.

He pulls out the tissue fine, but then he wants to throw it away before he gives it to me!
If he does that, don't click and treat. Before he drops it in, say - "No - Bring it!" He'll then bring it to you. Soon, he'll remember to bring it to you every time.

Tip: "Just so you know, you're teaching your dog to pull out all the tissues from the tissue box! Make sure he can't get to them when you're away from home."

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog To Fetch A Drink

Difficulty: Moderate

Whether you're reclining on the couch watching a football game or just sitting around with friends, this can be a useful—as well as entertaining—trick for your dog to know. It can also be a fun game for your dog, and once he's learned it he may not want to stop! Just be sure to have a handkerchief ready to wipe down that drink. If you have guests over, a good idea is to be very casual when showing off this trick. Nonchalantly say to your dog, "I'm thirsty Max, go get me a drink." When he comes back, open it up, and continue your conversation with your guests. They should be just as surprised as you are pleased.

Step 1: Get a bottle of soda appropriate for your dog's size and put it on the ground. Tell your dog to "Take It." Click and treat when he does. Do this several times.

Step 2: Now, tell your dog to "Take It" and "Bring it." When he brings it to you, tell him "Drop it" Do this repeatedly and remember to click/treat.

Step 3: Put the bottle a bit further away from you each time. Only click and treat if he takes it, brings it, and drops it into your hands. Soon, you can eliminate the three commands and instead use the phrase, "Bring me a drink!"

Step 4: Try asking him to perform the trick from different spots in the room, and then move to different rooms. It makes a terrific trick for house guests!

OUR EXPERIENCE


When I taught Caspian this trick, I used a 16.9 oz. bottle of Dr. Pepper. That's a pretty big bottle, but I thought he could handle it because he's so big. After a little encouragement, Caspian started knocking over the bottle and picking it up with his mouth. We had to teach him to first knock it over, then pick it up—he was getting frustrated by trying to pick it up. He was also scared of the full bottle; either because of the weight, or because of the imbalance of it sloshing around. We decided to completely empty the bottle to begin with, then fill it gradually as he continually completed the trick. I would tell him to "Take It," and "Bring It;" and this took him awhile to get the first time. I gave him a big jackpot when he did, and took a break from training. In the next session, after some review, this time I would say "Bring me a Drink" as he finished his performance. Each time I had him do it, I would put the drink in a different spot, just a little bit farther away from me. Soon, whenever I told him to "Bring me a Drink," he'd run into the kitchen, grab a drink by the fridge, run back with it in his mouth, and then drop it in my hand!

TEACHING TROUBLE

Why can't he pick up the bottle? Caspian learned to knock the bottle over with his nose or paw, and then pick it up with his mouth. Just be quiet when your dog seems to get frustrated and don't try to prod him. Dogs are smart; they'll figure out what they need to do.

It's too heavy for him! It may not be. That's what I thought when I was teaching Caspian this trick, so I emptied the soda bottle. Of course, he picked it up fine. I kept clicking and treating when he would take it, and while he was eating his treat, I filled the bottle up little by little with water. Soon, the bottle was filled up all the way to the top, and Caspian picked it up just fine. He was just not used to carrying something that heavy in his mouth, but after we worked on it, he didn't have any trouble.

Tip: "If you're having trouble getting your dog to pick up the drink bottle, try getting him to first learn to knock the bottle over before trying to pick it up."

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog To Jump Rope

Difficulty: Hard

This is a fun trick to teach your dog, and good exercise for him as well. Since this is a difficult trick, read the steps carefully and be patient with your dog. Soon he will be jumping rope, and loving it! If your dog is still young, you might want to wait before teaching him to jump rope: jumping too much may be hard on his hips. Before any jumping trick, always first check with your vet to see if your dog can handle it.


Step 1: Put your dog on the table. Ask him to jump. Click and treat. Your dog should stay in the same place so he won't fall off the table.

Step 2: Tie the jump rope to another object. Let your dog get used to the jump rope by moving it back and forth.

Step 3: Give the jump rope almost a full turn, stopping before it crosses your dogs legs. At this point, tell him to Jump. When he does, slide the jump rope underneath. Do this several times, clicking and treating.

Step 4: As your dog gets more accustomed to the jump rope, you will be able to have smoother rotations. Work with your dog until he can do it just right.

OUR EXPERIENCE


It took extra patience to teach Caspian jump-rope (and more than a few handfuls of treats), but hard work pays off. At first Caspian was distracted with the jump-rope, and he would get frustrated after long sessions, but as we practiced more and more he stopped thinking about the rope and started focusing on jumping. Once he did this, it became easier for us to work the rope, and soon the trick was working smoothly. Ever since Caspian's accident we haven't worked with this trick since jumping up and down stresses his back hip. If you have a larger dog breed or if your dog has any history of hip dysplasia, consult your veterinarian before attempting this trick.

TEACHING TROUBLE


My dog is scared of the jump rope. How can I get him more used to it? When does he bow? Is it when he gets up from his nap to stretch? Or when he is meeting other dogs? Notice when he gets in that position and use that to shape the behavior.
Tip: "Try putting the jump rope on the table and under the dog before asking him to jump. That way, he will get used to seeing it under him. Don't use any big motions when using the jump rope to start out with. Small motions work best, and you can do fuller turns as your dog becomes more comfortable with the rope."

Dog Tric - Teach Your Dog To Bow

Difficulty: Easy
Teach Dog To Bow 

By now your dog most likely knows a whole repertoire of tricks, from simple ones like Sit to more complicated ones like Put Toys Away. With good treats, your dog can perform a string of impressive tricks for your friends—but you are still lacking one thing: an ending. The perfect way for your dog to to end a performance is the same way any professional does: with a bow. If you follow these three simple steps, you will be set up for a perfect dog show.


Step 1: Start 'rough-housing' with your dog. Whenever he starts to get into the "bow" position, click and treat. Keep doing this until he starts doing it on his own.

Step 2: Start saying "Bow" whenever he gets into the Bow position; then click and treat.

Step 3: Keep doing this until he will bow at your command! Always give your dog a jackpot when he obeys your command for the first time.

OUR EXPERIENCE

My dog loves to play. Whenever I would play with him, and start to chase him, I noticed that he would "Bow" by laying his front two legs down before he ran from me. I decided to shape this behavior into a "Take a Bow" trick. I started by chasing him. As soon as his front legs touched the floor, I clicked and treated. We did this again and again until he understood that I was clicking for his "Bow" position. Soon, he started to do it more frequently. I used the command "Bow" whenever I clicked. Eventually, Caspian was able to obey my command when I told him to bow. And it all started by playing a game of chase!

TEACHING TROUBLE


My dog never bows when he is playful! When does he bow? Is it when he gets up from his nap to stretch? Or when he is meeting other dogs? Notice when he gets in that position and use that to shape the behavior.

Tip: "Although many trainers teach Bow by forcing the dog into a Bow position, we believe it is much easier and less frustrating to capture the natural behavior of your dog. We will use this way to teach "Take a Bow."

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog To Count

Difficulty: Moderate

Here is a fun and impressive trick that proves that your dog is as smart as Einstein (mmm … or at least as smart as Einstein's dog). The trick is to get your dog to bark until a subtle cue causes him to stop. Then you can have him bark out any number of barks to answer various mathematical questions. This trick is not that hard to teach, but it does take patience and longer periods of time than most tricks in order to shape the behavior correctly. But it is really worth the effort because it shows that your dog really counts for something.



Step 1: Have your dog sit facing you.

Step 2: Hold a treat in your left hand and hold your right hand up. (Here we are getting the dog to associate the speak command with the visual command of holding your right hand up). Also look your dog in the eye (I look directly into his right eye).

Step 3: Have the dog speak, and treat when he barks.

Step 4: Repeat. But this time only drop your hand (also avert your eyes) and treat when he barks twice. (This may take some patience).

Step 5: Work on this several times a day until your little Einstein realizes he must continue to bark until you drop your hand.

Step 6: Gradually fade from holding your right hand up so that your dog will use your eyes as the cue to stop speaking.

Step 7: Keep refining this trick until he has a smooth flow of barks and stops as soon as you avert your eyes.

OUR EXPERIENCE

While teaching our dog to count, we started by re-familiarizing him with the speak command. While doing this, we introduced a small cue: looking down and staring at him directly into his right eye. When getting him to speak, we began with clicking right after he barked once, then once he was progressing well, we started clicking after multiple barks. Each time we wanted him to stop barking, we would immediately break our eye contact, and click and treat. Once this was accomplished, we could cue him to start barking by rotating our head down and looking at his right eye. Once he finished barking, we would break our eye contact, and reward him for a job well done. This is how Caspian can solve math problems given by friends, we keep him barking using this subtle cue. We just have to make sure we do the math right ourselves.

TEACHING TROUBLE


My dog doesn't always stop barking on time! Keep working with him. This is why this trick takes lots of patience! If your dog (or you) makes a mistake during a performance, put your hands on your hips and say, "Oh! Einstein, I'm ashamed of you," which cues his Act Ashamed trick— for a good laugh.

Tip: "Have your guests think of simple math problems for your dog to answer, but make sure you do the math right!"

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog To Weave

Difficulty: Hard

When you watch dog agility competitions, one of the most spectacular sections has to be the weave poles. These championship dogs have trained hard and long to weave back and forth in between the poles at break-neck speed. Trainers say this is one of the hardest sections of agility competitions. Although there is difficulty involved, most dogs end up loving the weave poles. So even if you aren't trying to enter an agility competition, you can teach your dog this fun and exciting trick, using basic household products, and of course your clicker.


Step 1: Set up obstacles, such as orange cones (bought at Wal-mart), buckets, or even red plastic cups in a straight line. Start with three or four, and space them 24-30 inches apart. With your touch stick, guide your dog in and out of the obstacles, starting from the left side. When he goes in and out of one or two, click and treat. Continue to do this until he goes in and out of all of them.

Step 2: After getting your dog used to these motions, start saying "Weave" when he is finishing up his trick. Click and treat.

Step 3: Do this several times until your dog will weave at your command. This is a hard trick to teach, and it may take many training sessions. Fully expect your dog to go after the obstacles and try and play with them. Gently guide his attention back to your treats, and get him focused again on the touch stick.

OUR EXPERIENCE


Using the touch stick, I guided Caspian through each obstacle. At first, I clicked and treated as he went through two or three obstacles. Then, I would click and treat as he wove through each one. At the end, I would say "Weave!" and click and treat. We did this several times until Caspian could weave in a flowing tempo. Soon, I was able to use less touch stick and let him do it on his own.

TEACHING TROUBLE


He does it with the touch stick fine - but he won't do it on his own! If you think you have used the touch stick long enough and would like to have him do it on his own, but he's not responding, try using your finger to guide him. That will help him know what to do, and you can gradually get rid of the hinting.

Tip: "Encourage your dog to weave faster and faster! Make him excited by being excited yourself. Give him bigger treats if he goes at a fluent tempo."

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog to Walk by Your Left or Right Side

Difficulty: Moderate 

Teach Dog to Walk by Left or Right Side
Does your dog know his lefts and rights? This is an easy trick to teach. When you take him out on a leash, does he tangle it around your legs? It may be useful to tell him "Left" or "Right" and keep yourself untangled from the leash. Not only is this a good trick to show off your smart dog, this is a useful command that professionally trained assistance dogs are expected to learn.


Step 1: With your touch stick, have your dog go around your right side and stand by your left side. Click and treat.
Step 2: Keep doing this, eventually saying, "Left" as soon as he stands by your left side.
Step 3: Repeat this action until he no longer needs the touch stick and can go to your left side at your command.
Step 4: Do the same thing, this time teaching him to go from your left side to your right side.

OUR EXPERIENCE

When teaching Caspian left and right, we began by using the touch stick. We would motion him to both sides, and clicking/treating. However, he easily became confused, and didn't quite get what he was being clicked for. Sometimes there are more than one way to teach a trick, so what we ended up having him first sit, then we would turn around, and pat our leg as to which side we wanted him to go to. When we motioned with our hand, he would come to that side. As he did so, we would say the command either 'right' or 'left.' We then started just saying the command, and leaving out the hand motion, and only clicking/treating for a correct performance. We would mix up the commands, just to see if he really knew the difference between right and left. Using the touch stick is a great way to teach this trick, but you may feel the need to tweak the steps a little to suit your own needs.

TEACHING TROUBLE

My dog is getting his left confused with his right! What do I do?
Try treating 'Left' and 'Right' as two separate tricks if this is happening. Usually, you want to teach both left and right so that your dog can differentiate between the two, but if he is getting easily confused, start with one, then move to the other. Try focusing on just one of them per training session. Hand cues are also important here: If your dog is paying attention and wants to find out what you're asking him to do, he'll look for hand signals, motions, or a direction from you to point him where he needs to go.

Tip: "You can gradually stop using the touch stick by guiding your dog with big hand motions. Then, you can make your hand motions smaller for a polished performance!"

Dog Trick - teach Your Dog to Act Ashamed

Difficulty: Moderate
teach  Dog to Act Ashamed 

Just as a comedian needs a handful of one-liners when his joke doesn't go over too well, it's good to have a trick to fall back on if your dog doesn't quite perform up to the level you were expecting. Lets say you have some dinner guests over, and you want to show off that new trick you taught Bella yesterday. You had taught her, and you're excited to show your friends how smart your dog is. Well, after telling her to retrieve your slippers, she's gone for a long time... after calling her, she comes slinking back with a slipper in her mouth, except it's completely chewed up. She drops the drool soaked mess of what used to be a comfortable slipper. Your dinner guests are trying their best not to laugh, they know you're embarrassed. Well, one trick that you did drill over and over is this one. "Bella! you should be ashamed of yourself!" Bella whines and lays down, puts her paw over her head. Your audience bursts into surprised laughter.


Step 1: Put some scotch tape or a sticky note on your dog's nose so that she paws at it. Click and treat.

Step 2: Repeat this a few times, but add in your command. Think of a short phrase such as "I'm Ashamed of you!" Use this command each time she paws at her nose.

Step 3: Take the tape off and give your command. Give her a jackpot if she paws at her nose!

Step 4: you wish, you can accompany this trick with her laying down. While teaching her, have her lay down before she paws at her nose.

OUR EXPERIENCE


This trick was so much fun to teach Caspian. I started with some scotch tape and put it on his nose. Since Caspian didn't want the tape on his nose, he naturally started pawing at it. Immediately I clicked and treated. Each time he did it, I would click and treat, saying "I'm ashamed of you!" After several times practicing with the tape, I gave him the command and he would paw at his nose. Soon, I was able to take the tape off his nose and give him the command again. He did it!

TEACHING TROUBLE


My dog won't rub his nose without the tape! Try cuing the behavior by gently scratching her nose with your finger. That should trigger a memory and she'll obey you. You can use this hint less and less to perfect the trick.

Tip: " A good hand signal would be putting your hands on your hips!"

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog to Catch

Difficulty: Easy
Train your dog to catch treats when you throw them. Collect bits and pieces of your dog's favorite treat, and have him sit in front of you. Throw a treat at your dog. If he doesn't catch it at first, take away the treat so he won't eat it. Eventually, your dog will get desperate for that good treat you have, and will not be able to get it unless he tries to catch it in the air. When he does catch it, praise him and give him a good petting. Now, when your dog catches the treat, say "Catch." When your dog begins catching naturally, you may introduce new objects to catch-a tennis ball is one. Have your dog sit, and - with a few feet of distance between you - lightly toss the ball into the air, and give the command. When he does, click and treat.

Step 1: Start out with a short distance and a good treat. Throw the treat to your dog. If he doesn't catch it, take the treat away and try again. If he does catch it, praise him and give him another treat!

Step 2: Keep doing this until he is catching well. Start saying "Catch" while he is catching them.

Step 3: Give him the command - "Catch!" and throw the treat. Give him lots of praise if he catches it at your command!

Step 4: Use other objects like footballs, tennis balls, or toys to give him more experience with catching. The more he practices, the better he will get!

OUR EXPERIENCE


Since fetch is Caspian's favorite game, we use it every day for exercise. For a little variety, we started sending him out before we threw the ball. Because he had learned catch, he started catching the tennis ball while it was still in the air. He often makes some very spectacular catches. Make sure that you use a very soft ball if you try this with your dog. Also, if you notice that your dog is jumping to catch food treats and toys, check with your vet to see if jumping is good for your dog. You want to make sure your dog is in good health before attempting any jumping tricks.

TEACHING TROUBLE


He's not catching anything! Some dogs are spectacular catchers - others are not. It's an instinct that all dogs have, but some breeds more than others. Just be patient - it may take a bit longer for your dog to learn this trick.
Tip: "Practice makes perfect. Don't despair if your dog doesn't catch well at first. Reward good behavior even if he tries to catch it and misses. Give him praise and encourage him to keep on trying!"

dog
Power by xinh xinh