3-foot-7-inch Great Dane world's tallest dog

Guinness

This photo released by Guinness World Records shows Giant George, a Great Dane from Tucson, Ariz., stands 3 feet, 7 inches tall from paw to shoulder, which is three-quarters of an inch taller than his closest rival, Titan, a white Great Dane from San Diego. Sitting under Giant George is owner David Nasser.

A 250-pound blue Great Dane from Arizona gives new meaning to the term "big dog."

Guinness World Records says Giant George from Tucson is the tallest dog ever on record.

Guinness said today that he stands 3 feet, 7 inches tall from paw to shoulder, which is three-quarters of an inch taller than his closest rival - Titan, a white Great Dane from San Diego.

The 4-year-old Titan took the title of world's tallest dog in 2009 after Gibson, a Great Dane from Grass Valley, Calif., died of bone cancer.

Guinness officials say there were conflicting reports about Giant George's height, so they sent a judge to verify it.

Newborn dogs lovely images

 Sleeping newborn puppy

 lovely newborn dogs

 dogs discavery

 dogs likely

Caring for a new puppy

Caring for a new puppy-Get ready for the fun.. You’ve found the puppy of your dreams, transported him safely home, now you need to get to grips with the immediate realities of caring for a new puppy: 

• Where is my new puppy going to sleep?
• What am I going to feed my new puppy? 
• What essential items do I need for my new puppy? 

These are the essentials of new puppy care. Your puppy has got a lot to learn in a very short period of time. Our job as dog owners is to make the learning process as easy as possible. So let’s start with: 

Where is my new puppy going to sleep? For all of its very short life your puppy has snuggled up to its canine family every night. Secure, and safe in a world that usually isn’t larger than the playpen that has confined her for the past 8 weeks or so. Now she’s in the wider world, her family are no longer around. At bedtime it’s guaranteed that she’s going to be feeling pretty anxious about things. 

Hopefully, your chosen breeder was wise enough to have provided you with a blanket that was imprinted with the scent of her canine family to help her overcome the early days of separation. If that’s the case, use it as her first bed. If not use a blanket or old quilt as her first bed. 

Place it in a secure box, pen or crate. Line the area with a couple of layers of lino or polythene, and cover that with several sheets of newspaper. Where this is located is your decision, but if you want to reassure your puppy, and speed up the bonding process, place it in your bedroom. 

Why the bedroom? Just the nearness of you, your comforting smell, and being able to see you, will reassure your puppy. It will also help in the socialisation of your new pet. Dogs are social animals. That means that they need company; to interact with you, and with your family and friends. 

Sharing your sleeping quarters for a few nights can help your puppy get over these first few scary nights. If you plan for your pup to sleep elsewhere in the longer term, simply make the move after a week or so. A better method, which your pup will hardly notice, is to gradually move her complete bedding to its final location on a daily basis. 

What am I going to feed my new puppy? Your puppy’s mother should have commenced weaning the litter from her own milk at around 4 weeks of age. The breeder would have overseen this natural process, and then given the litter their first lessons in lapping milk from a saucer. The breeder would have begun feeding them 2 very small meals per day, escalating to around 5 meals per day at seven weeks of age. This might sound a lot, but it is far better to feed little and often as a puppies' digestion can easily be upset. At 8 weeks of age the mother has ceased to secrete milk, and the puppies are fully weaned. 

This is where you enter the picture. It is imperative that the breeder of your puppy informs you how many meals per day your puppy has been receiving, and in what quantity. She should also give you at least a few day’s supply of that food. If you decide to change to another food, do it very gradually. At this early stage you should make a decision about your dog’s future diet. This page on Dog Feeding should help you to decide.

At 3 months of age you can cut out one meal per day, and at 4 months three meals per day should be sufficient. You can still give your puppy milk; goat’s milk being the nearest consistency to a dogs. Cod liver oil is a good supplement. 

Your puppy is going to need plenty of good, fresh, nourishing food- but don’t overload her. Make sure that food bowls are kept scrupulously clean. Left-over food should never be given the next day. Be sure that your puppy has always got clean, fresh water available.

At 7- 9 months most puppies, in most breeds, are fully grown, but they’re not fully developed until around 12-18 months of age. 

What essential items do I need for my new puppy? Walk in to your local pet shop and ask this question. Better still walk in and just cast your eye through the dog section. Trousers, coats, exercise machines, a seemingly endless array of toys and treats, collars, crates, leads, brushes, combs and on and on. 

These items are all that you need at the puppy stage: A small food bowl, a small water dish, some form of suitable bedding. Apart from these 3 essential items your puppy is going to need some toys, a soft, tufted brush, and a light training lead. Find out more about these below.

Just like children pups need toys: They need to chew and to play. For a puppy everything is a toy. It has to be dragged, chewed, shaken, and on occasions- swallowed. Your puppy can't tell the difference between the rubber ball that you bought her, and your slippers, best shoes, electric cables, favourite hat, etc.

It's your responsibility to make sure that your puppy is denied access to dangerous and forbidden items. 

There's many safe, chewable bones, balls, rings, etc, on the market. Kong's are an excellent example of a safe and fun puppy toy. There’s even a hollow type that you can fill with a treat. Your puppy will love chewing these- especially when he’s teething.

Don't give your puppy too many toys. If the choice is large, she’ll think that everything is a toy- and that’s what your trying to prevent.

Keep one "special" toy to one side. This “special” toy only comes out when you play with him. This is an early part of training and relates to you as a leader. By only allowing him access to this "special" toy when you permit it, your sending out a subtle message to your puppy, letting him know exactly who is in charge. 

Learning to love his leash: The first time you slip a collar on your puppy and attach a lead, it’s a foregone conclusion that the reaction will be one of fear, and often panic. You need to take a more subtler route to achieve your goal.

Make sure that his first collar is very soft, and the right fit. Once you slip it on make sure that you can place two fingers beneath the collar, and your puppy’s neck. Just before you feed him put on the collar. This will definitely be forgotten once he catches the smell, and then the sight of his dinner. 

Take it off straight after the meal, and then praise him. Repeat this process, and gradually lengthen the time that he’s wearing the collar. Now to get the lead on: Attach a piece of string, wool or cotton to the collar about the length of a leash. Roll a ball and encourage him to chase it. Pick up the end of the cotton leash, without allowing it to become taut, and just follow him around. Again repeat these actions over the next few days, until it becomes perfectly natural. 

Finally the big day has arrived. Attach a light training lead to his collar at dinner time. Call him to eat, allowing the leash to drag behind. Remove it after the meal. Repeat this several times. Next, call him for his dinner, only this time pick up the leash, take up some of the slack and follow him to the bowl. 

Repeat over several days. Through the association of nice things--food and play--with the collar and lead, your puppy will be well on his way to learning how to love his leash.

Grooming-an essential part of caring for a new puppy. Creating a bond between you and your puppy is vital. Grooming is probably the easiest and most fruitful method of developing it.

Start grooming your puppy from day one. He’s at his most receptive stage right now. Just make sure that the first brush that you buy is very soft. You’ll need to keep the grooming sessions short, but on a regular basis. Speak to him as you lightly brush. Be sure to make it enjoyable for him, and don't forget the treat at the end of each session.

Due to the various breed requirements some coats require far more care and attention than others. Even if your dog comes from a breed with an easy care coat you should still spend time grooming your puppy for two important reasons. One is psychological and the other is physical.

Firstly: Each time that you groom your puppy your taking control of a situation. Your acting as a natural leader, and thereby relaying a clear message to him that establishes the order of things in your household. Or, in the canine world, your the pack leader, and he’s one of the pack. 

Secondly: It will maintain your dogs coat and skin in tip top condition. It will also keep you aware of any parasites that have taken up residence in your new pup’s coat. 

Caring for a new puppy involves several important aspects. If you want, a well mannered, well adjusted adult dog, then you need to find out all about socialising your puppy.

Keeping Your Dog Busy

Dogs are very intelligent animals and they blossom in environments where they have plenty to do. City dogs are often required to spend substantial periods of time inactive. "In the old days", dogs lived on country properties and spent their days exploring the grounds, scrounging from the compost, trotting after the tractor, rounding up the livestock, playing with the kids, and napping under the shade of an oak tree. The average urban dog experiences a very different reality: after 7-8 hours of sleep, they get a brief morning walk around the block to eliminate, followed by a well-balanced breakfast served in a bowl. The dog then snoozes while the owner prepares for his/her day, takes a long nap on the bed until the dog walker comes at mid-day for a 30 minute leashed walk in the park, followed by an afternoon nap until the owner comes home. The lucky dog will spend another 30 minutes walking with the owner about the neighborhood, maybe share a quick game of fetch in the hallway, have dinner and a cuddle on the sofa watching TV with the owner before bed.

Couch potato dogs will relish this sedentary lifestyle but most dogs, if given a choice, want to be active! In fact, some dogs can't hack the cushy city life at all and instead, drive their owners crazy, racing around the house, tearing the pillows, and digging up the flowers. Why do dogs have so much energy?

Most breeds of dogs were developed to perform specific jobs for people, such as guarding, herding, or hunting; work that demands physical stamina and mental concentration. When we choose to open our home to a dog, it becomes our responsibility to meet the behavioural needs of that dog by providing appropriate outlets for his physical and mental energy.

"No Pain, No Gain"

A tired dog is generally a good dog! Dogs need physical exercise. The average dog benefits from a minimum of two outings per day. If left to their own devices, dogs tend to be most active morning and evening, choosing to sleep mid-day. Off-leash exercise is best, provided the dog is trained not to run away or get into other forms of trouble. Being off leash allows the dog to monitor his own exercise - he can run when he feels like it and rest when he needs it. This is especially critical for puppies because their growth plates have not yet closed and too much exercise can result in orthopedic problems that plague the dog the rest of his life.

The most extensive exercise should be in the morning, after a good night's sleep. If you wait until the evening, you've forced the dog to remain sedentary all night AND all day, which is a lot to ask. This is particularly true if you plan to leave the dog alone all day. A moderately sized dog, from a terrier to a retriever, should be out for 45-60 minutes in the morning and at least 30-45 minutes in the evening.

Strenuous aerobic exercise is best for healthy, physically sound dogs. If your dog has been a couch potato, check with your veterinarian before embarking on an exercise program with your dog. Off leash running and play with other dogs permits your dog physical exertion and social contact with others of his species. If you plan to frequent city dog runs, your dog should have impeccable manners with other dogs and with people. Mature dogs don't always like the close confinement of a dog run and are more likely to behave aggressively, especially if there are rambunctious young dogs present.

Even dogs with orthopedic problems need managed exercise to keep the muscles strong so they can support weak bones and joints. Swimming is great exercise for any dog but is especially beneficial for unsound dogs, like those with hip dysplasia.

Owners with high-energy dogs can enjoy including their dogs in their own exercise programs, such as running, roller blading, or cycling. Sustained running like this is a wonderful way to expend excess energy and keep a dog fit but, just like people, it is crucial to build up your dog's stamina for distance. Make sure you give your dog an opportunity to urinate and defecate before you get going, especially if you exercise them on lead. Keep in mind that dogs don't cool themselves as efficiently as people - they pant rather than perspire. If you require your dog run to keep up with you, make sure he has frequent opportunities to immerse in water. This allows for rapid cooling.

Every morning, my dogs run while I ride my bike. I ride on a bike trail that runs alongside a stream so every few minutes, the dogs take a quick dip. When it's really hot, they even dunk their heads under the water! As long as they can keep wet, my dogs are able to run for several miles, even in summer heat waves.

Training a dog to run alongside you while you roller blade or cycle can be a bit of a challenge, especially if your dog likes to chase bunnies or squirrels. Your dog must be taught that it is unacceptable to chase animals while exercising with you. Some dogs can learn this on just a regular collar, while others need to wear a training collar, such as a choke or pinch collar, to ensure everyone's safety. There are attachments for bicycles to prevent the dog from knocking the bike over. A solid-leash device, called the Springer, is attached to the bike frame and the dog is connected to the bar. These are available from some pet stores and through pet supply websites.

For those owners averse to physical exercise themselves, fetch games are great but take care if your dog likes to catch air going after a Frisbee or ball. They often land hard and, if it happens enough, this can cause long-term damage to bones and joints. Another option is the doggy treadmills. For a few thousand dollars you can have the latest in dog exercise equipment! From what I hear, if trained properly, dogs love to run on treadmills. I've also heard of owners training their dogs to run on their own treadmills designed for humans. Often these treadmills have been collecting dust in the basement for years.

"Will Work for Food"

They say that if people don't use their brains, cells begin to deteriorate. I have no reason to assume that dogs are any different. Dogs love to solve problems, especially ones that involve food.

Food toys are a great way to enrich your dog's world. All animals enjoy spending time and effort obtaining food. In fact, it has been shown that, if given a choice between free food and food that requires work, such as searching or manipulating an object, animals prefer to work for their food. For instance, squirrels would rather be given peanuts in the shell than ones already shelled. So rather than give your dog his food in a bowl, for free, give him a puzzle to solve. Offer the dog his dinner in a Kong, a Goodie Ship, or a Buster Cube (see below for detailed instructions). Hide small containers of food around the house and release him to go find them. Take his bowl of food and toss the kibble into the backyard so he has to snuffle around in the grass to find the small pieces of kibble.

Training is another excellent way to stimulate a dog's brain. In general dogs love to learn and even old dogs can learn new tricks. You can practice basic obedience manners, teach parlor tricks, or set up a few obstacles in your backyard so your dog can demonstrate his agility. Short sessions of 5-10 minutes once or twice a day is best. Keep it light and fun for the dog (and for you!) by using food, play, and plenty of praise and enthusiasm.

If you want more formalized stimulation, try agility or flyball training. The sport of agility involves teaching the dog to jump, climb, and weave through various obstacles. Most dogs love to use their bodies and they love to "play" with their owners, so agility is especially popular among dogs. A well-trained agility dog responds to various commands, including turning right, left, going ahead, flipping behind, sit, down and stay. Flyball is a relay race between teams of dogs - one at a time, dogs on a team will race over a set of low jumps to a special box that, when triggered by the dog, releases a tennis ball at top speed. The dog catches the ball and returns over the jumps to the owner. The first team with all four dogs across the finish line, each with a ball, wins! Flyball is a very noisy activity because most dogs tend to cheer their teammates on with frantic barking. Serious flyball competitors are pretty noisy as well and tend to resemble hockey moms or soccer dads!

In addition to obedience, agility, and flyball, there are unlimited activities for owners and their dogs, such as tracking, search and rescue, pet therapy, clicker training, freestyle, and so on. Check out the book "201 ways to enjoy your dog" by Ellie Milton (1990, Alpine Publications).

How to stuff food toys

The Kong: Mix the dog's kibble with some small treats and something sticky, like Cheese whiz, peanut butter, or tinned dog food. Fill the Kong completely with this mixture and place it in the freezer. Frozen is more difficult for the dog to get out and it is less messy for your floors. Some dogs will lick at the Kong until it is empty; other dogs will learn to toss it around so bits of food fall out. The average dog takes about 20-30 minutes to empty a Kong. The Kong can be cleaned in the dishwasher (no detergent is necessary).

The Goodie Ship: Use any moist treat to stuff in the cookie cutter shapes of the Goodie Ship. There are different sizes and shapes of ship. Goodie Ships can be cleaned in the dishwasher (no detergent). Dogs seem to prefer the medium-sized ball ship, maybe because the toy fits in the mouth so the dog can use a lot of force to squish it and get the food out.

The Buster Cube: Only kibble and similar sized hard treats should be used in the Buster Cube and its mimics. The dog rolls the Cube around the floor, as the food falls out. The Cube is quite noisy, especially when the dog bangs it into furniture and walls, but it has a nice feature: it can be set to "easy" for the dog to learn and then "hard" once the dog has figured it out. Sometimes the dog gets so into rolling the Cube around that he forgets to eat the food! I use the Cube for my small dog because he gets substantially less food than my large dogs and, if I give him his meal in a bowl, he finishes much quicker than the large dogs. Rather than making him watch the other dogs finish up, I give him his meal in the Cube and it takes him about the same time to eat as the others.

House Training a Puppy

The simplest guide to house training a puppy on the internet!

This article will teach you how to house train your puppy (or adult dog). It will show you how to train your puppy to go to the toilet in a designated spot (not just anywhere in your home!).

The key to house training

The key to house training is simply getting your puppy to eliminate in the designated spot as much as possible and to stop him from going in the home. If you get him to go in the designated spot as often as possible, and avoid accidents inside the home, he will eventually start taking himself to his toilet spot automatically when he needs to go.

The designated spot

Most people train their puppy to go to the toilet outside on the grass. You can also train your puppy to go inside on a piece of newspaper or litter box.

You should only teach your puppy to go to the toilet inside if you live in an apartment building and don't have access to a patch of grass outside. Why would you want your dog to do his smelly business inside when it's just as easy to train him to do it outside?

Always take him to the same spot or patch of grass. If you're in a rush to get him to his toilet spot you can pick him up and carry him. Otherwise let him follow you to the spot so he can learn the way there.

Treat and praise

Always treat and praise your puppy when he goes to the toilet in the correct spot! You want him to learn that when he goes to the bathroom in the correct spot good things happen to him.

Be careful not to treat and praise him to early, or you might interrupt him before he has completely finished going.

Be careful not to treat and praise him to late. If you treat and praise him when he's coming back in the house he'll think he's being rewarded for coming in the house. And he won't know that you're actually rewarding him for going to the toilet in the correct spot. So treat and praise him immediately after he finishes goes to the toilet in his designated spot.

Accidents

Accidents will happen! You should expect many accidents while you're house training your puppy. However, the more accidents you can avoid the faster he will become house trained.

If your puppy starts to go to the toilet in the home, calmly pick him up without saying anything to him and take him to his designated spot. Put him down and let him finish in the correct spot and then treat and praise him for doing it where he is supposed to.

Go back inside and clean up the accident with paper towels. Use white vinegar or a commercial odor remover (available from a pet store) to remove the smell from the carpet. If you don't remove the smell he will likely soil that same spot, inside the home, again.

Note: If your puppy eliminates somewhere in the house without you knowing, all you should do is clean it up. You should never scold or punish your puppy for making a mistake inside, especially not after the fact. Dogs are unable to make the connection between a punishment you are giving them now for something they did five minutes ago (or even five seconds ago). And punishing your puppy for making a mistake does not speed up the house training process.

The cue

You can have a special word that gets your puppy to go to the toilet when you ask. To teach him this word, or cue, say the word, for example: "potty," when he is eliminating in the correct spot. Then praise and treat him when he finishes, like you normally would. After a week or so of you saying the word while he eliminates, he'll learn what it means. You can then say the word when you take him to his toilet spot to encourage him to go to the toilet faster.

Take your puppy outside frequently

While you're house training your puppy, it's your responsibility to take your puppy to his designated toilet spot before he needs to go. But how do you know when he'll need to go?

Puppies always need to go to the bathroom a few minutes after they eat or drink. So always take him to his spot after he eats or drinks.

You can establish a feeding schedule so that you know when he has eaten and therefore when you need to take him to the toilet.

House training feeding schedule:

Age of dog	Meals per day	Meal Times
0 - 3 months	4	Morning, noon, afternoon, and evening
3 - 8 months	3	Morning, noon, and evening
8 - 12 months	2	Morning and evening

After each of these scheduled meals take him outside to the toilet and wait for him to go.

Other times you should take him out and he'll probably need to "go" are when he's excited, after he's been playing, whenever he wakes up from a sleep, after exercise, before bed, and after he's been in his crate.

You should also give him plenty of other opportunities during the day to go to the toilet in the designated spot by taking him to the spot every hour or so during the day.

Watch him closely

During the day, keep a close eye on him. If he starts to sniff the ground, walk in circles, bark, squat or becomes restless, rush over and calmly pick him up and take him to his spot outside. Treat and praise him when he goes in the correct spot. You may want to purchase some puppy gates to confine him to the same room you're in so you can keep a closer eye on him.

Summary

If you provide your puppy with plenty of opportunities to go to the toilet in his designated spot, and diligently avoid accidents inside the home, he will eventually learn to take himself to that spot or alert you with a bark or by standing at the door when he needs to go.

Handle a Dog Begging for Food

Dog begging for food is one of the most common discipline issues that dog owners face. An unfortunate side effect of loving our dogs so much is that we would like to give them everything that they want. So when our dogs start begging for food, it's almost too much for us to bear... and we cave!

With a little willpower and discipline on your part, though, begging can be one of the easiest behaviors to correct. Follow these simple tips to turn your hairy panhandler into a productive member of society once more!

Do not give food to begging dog. This tip may seem like common sense, but you'd be surprised how few people consider it when they're looking into the wide, wet eyes of their beloved canine companion. That high-pitched whine is an effective tool against you, and your dog knows it. Why? Because it's worked before! Giving food is a form of affection, and giving affection reinforces the behavior preceding it. Your dog has learned that if he begs, he gets food! Take a stand and start a new trend. Find the willpower to withhold that food, and your dog will learn that he can't expect rewards for begging behavior.

Ignore begging dog. Begging is an attention-seeking behavior. Rather than give in to your dog's demands, ignore the behavior and teach your dog that it does not get results! When you talk to your dog, give him affection, or engage in direct eye contact, you are feeding his mental state. Instead, practice no touch, no talk, no eye contact.

Don't feel sorry for your dog.Your dog is well-fed. You should know; you feed him! He is not in danger of going hungry if you don't give him that scrap off the table, so don't feel sorry for him when he flashes you those doughy eyes and places a single paw forlornly on your leg. If you become concerned about how much your dog should be fed, talk to your veterinarian. This can help ease your concerns and allow you to remain calm and assertive!

Use discipline consistently. In any kind of training, consistency is the key to success. For your dog to learn that his begging behavior is ineffective, it has to be ineffective 100% of the time. Inconsistent enforcement of the rules leads to an inconsistently obedient dog! Make sure that every pack leader in the household understands and enforces the same rules.

Be patient. Few dogs change overnight. If you have followed these tips to the letter and your dog continues to beg, don't despair! See the last tip: use discipline consistently. Stay consistent and don't give up. Your reward will be a better behaved dog!

toilet train for dogs

House training (toilet training) a puppy or a dog takes time and patience and, just as with children, every puppy or dog is different and will learn at its own pace.

To make the process of toilet training successful and as efficient as possible, you need to usepositive reinforcement training. The first step is to give your dog plenty of opportunities to go outside. The second is to reward the dog every time(or as often as possible) it eliminates in the place where you want the dog to go.

The reward must occur immediately after the event (within a few seconds), not when the dog comes back inside, as the dog will not make an association between the elimination and the reward unless it is given straight afterwards. The reward can be in the form of praise (a pat on the chest or saying 'good' dog in a pleasant tone of voice), offering a food treat or giving the dog their favourite chew toy.

This system relies on you supervising the dog as much as possible throughout the day so as not to miss the opportunity to reward the dog for the good behaviour. The more often you can do this, the faster the dog will learn. You should also look out for signs showing the dog is about to go to the toilet so you can take them outside and are ready to praise them as soon as they have finished. When dogs are about to go to the toilet they tend to sniff the area, circle and then pause in the spot (though individuals may vary so owners may watch their dog to get an idea of what they do).

Remember to take your puppy or dog to the toilet area first thing in the morning, as dogs will often need to go to the toilet at this time.

Positive reinforcement also involves ignoring 'unwanted' elimination – i.e. if the dog goes in the wrong place it is best to display no reaction. You should clean the area thoroughly with a non-ammonia based cleaning product (these can be found at your local veterinary clinic or animal supplies store) to take away the scent and reduce the likelihood of the dog using the same place again next time.

Old-fashioned responses such as 'rubbing the dog’s nose in it' or administering any form of punishment will not teach the dog anything, in fact it may actually delay the learning process. The dog may instead learn that eliminating in front of the owner is inappropriate and this then makes rewarding elimination (when they do go in the right spot) difficult.

It is very important to note that young puppies often do not have full control over their urination until they are a bit older. That is, urination is a developmental process, so very young puppies can make a mistake without being able to prevent or control it

How to Get Your Dog to Sleep

Can't get your puppy or grown dog to settle down to sleep at night? Does it whine all night long? Here are a few ideas about how to change this behavior--or accommodate it in your home.

Steps

1 Identify the Problem. Puppies may miss the noise and warmth of a litter. Dogs are creatures of habit-- a change of sleeping situation may be the problem. If something stressful to the dog has recently happened, perhaps this needs to be addressed.

2 For a sleepless puppy: Make sure you have the following things: a warm bean bag or mat, and a clock that makes a rhythmic ticking sound. Put these articles under a cushion or a blanket where your dog sleeps! It should work like magic. You can also put the clock next to your dog. However you could also try putting a radio on softly.

3 If your dog is accustomed to sleeping in a crate, kennel, or other small space he or she may have a hard time sleeping in an open room. If you prefer your dog to sleep out in the open, or you don't have a crate, it may take a few nights of whining and pacing for her to get used to the new situation. Be patient! Show her where you want her to sleep, and, if she knows the command, tell her to do a "Down" and "Stay." You may need to get out of bed to correct incorrect behavior--but it'll be worth it in the long run.

4 If you want your dog to sleep in a crate, but he isn't "crate trained" it may take some time to get him used to the crate. Put special treats in the back of crate before you lead him to it. Make sure that when you say "Kennel" or "bedtime" you use a positive tone of voice--going into the crate to sleep shouldn't be a punishment. If you use it as a punishment, you may find that your dog never grows accustomed to the crate as a relaxing and quiet place.

5 Perhaps there are other issues--a big event, a change in household set-up-- that the dog is responding to. Just remember, dogs are happiest when the same thing happens everyday in the same way. A small change to you (like moving your bedroom furniture) may seem like a big deal to the dog. He'll get used to the change with patient and consistent correction from you.

6 Exercise! Dogs need about 40 minutes a day of running, panting, aerobic exercise. A restless dog at night may be a dog who needs more time tiring himself out.

7 Food. Dogs absorb energy from their food differently than humans do--because their food is a little different. Generally, dogs get a big energy push right after eating, so if you feed your dog late at night, she may be too energetic to get to sleep. Try feeding her earlier, and be sure to let her relieve herself before bedtime.

Tips

As in humans, yawning is contagious. Try yawning intentionally to your dog (puppy) and it can induce sleepiness in your dog.

Having a treat might help you lure your dog to his/her sleeping area.

It would help to have your dog calmed down, and put it in a quiet spot

Know your dog breed. Some dog breeds, such as border collies, lab, golden retrievers, and many terriers need much more that 40 min of exercise. They may need 40 minutes twice a day or up to 2 hours of exercise. Other breeds such as Bichons, mini dachshunds, great Danes need less. Size is not as important as what the dog was bred to do.

Make sure your dog doesn't sleep all day because that can make your dog awake all night and then you can't get the sleep you need.

Warnings

Be careful about the temperature of the hot item, it should be warm to the touch.

Also, a normal dog's body temperature is around 102 degrees Fahrenheit, so don't make it too cold.

Be careful about telling your dog to "stay". Stay means don't move until I tell you to, as in stay sitting until I tell you can get up. This is not something you can control after you go to sleep. By telling your dog to "stay" at night, she may not know she has to actually "stay" during other times. "Wait" or "go to your bed" may be better to use. This is picky but if you really want your dog to gave a good "stay" this is important.

First night home with puppy

The first night home with your new puppy can be a trying experience for both of you. It’s the first time your puppy has spent the night away from his mother and littermates. Because dogs are pack animals, your puppy knows instinctively that being separated from the pack is dangerous. Whining and crying at night is your puppy’s way of calling for his pack to find him. Of course it does nothing to comfort you.

With a little preparation and patience, you can make the most of the first night with your puppy.

What to do before bedtime

Take up any food or water after six or seven o’clock to make sure your puppy is running on empty when it’s time to sleep. Otherwise, you’ll be making trips to the bathroom all night, or worse, your puppy will eliminate in the house.

Shortly before you go to bed, spend some time playing with your puppy. You want him to be tired enough to sleep soundly. Definitely don’t let him nap within an hour or two of bedtime or else your puppy will be ready to play when you’re ready to sleep.

Just before bed, take your puppy outside to his soiling area and wait for him to go. When he does praise him and bring him back inside. This reinforces good behavior and begins the house training process.

Where puppy should sleep

If possible, you should let your puppy sleep in your bedroom to reduce the chances of whining or crying at night. Also, the constant contact throughout the night will help your puppy adjust to you and establish you as pack leader. One note of caution: Don’t let the puppy sleep in the bed with you. He’ll eventually expect to be allowed in the bed, and it can lead to numerous behavioral problems as your puppy grows.

If you or the breeder have started crate training, you should put the crate in your room and use that to confine him while he sleeps. If your puppy isn’t used to a crate, then tether him to your bed or close by and put down an old blanket or sheet. Keep the tether short. Puppies usually won’t soil the area where they sleep, but if he has the opportunity to wander he may get up and go during the night.

As a last resort, you can keep your new puppy somewhere other than your bedroom. Make sure you puppy proof your house first and put a sweatshirt or other article of your clothing with him for your scent. A ticking clock or a radio set to a low volume can also help soothe a puppy the first night home. You should check on him throughout the night for bathroom breaks.

Stop puppy crying at night

If and when your puppy starts crying at night, you need to decide if he has to go to the bathroom or if he’s looking for attention. If he’s been quiet for a few hours and suddenly starts to cry or whine, he may need to go out. Puppies have small bladders, so you’ll likely have to take him out at least once during the night. A good rule of thumb is to add one to your puppy’s age in months and that’s generally how long he can go without a trip outside. So a two-month-old puppy can wait three hours. That means your puppy will probably need to go out at least twice during the night.

If your puppy is crying and you’re sure it’s not for need of relieving himself, reach down and soothe him a little. Don’t be too doting or coddle your puppy. This will only reinforce the behavior and he’ll cry even more. If he continues to whine, a gruff “Quiet” and a quick, but gentle, shake by the scruff should settle the matter. If all else fails, ignore him. Tough love may be difficult, but eventually your puppy will learn that crying at night gets him nowhere. The more persistent you are in your approach, the quicker the situation will be resolved. If you’re stern one minute and sympathetic the next, your puppy will only be confused and his behavior will continue.

In the morning

Get up right away and take your puppy outside to his soiling area. Carry him. Don’t let him walk there or he may be tempted to go before he gets outside. Let him empty everything out, and praise him when he’s finished.

As with any new baby, you may not get much sleep the first night with puppy. If you’re patient and understanding, your puppy will learn what you expect of him when it’s time to sleep. You both should wake up rested and ready for the day after a few nights together.

How long does a normal puppy sleep?

The amount of time spent napping varies fromdog to dog and depends on the dog's age andpersonality. Counting little naps and longersnoozes, most puppies sleep from 18 to 20 hoursa day. As your puppy ages, he will sleep less.Adult dogs sleep about fourteen hours a day.

The various breeds of dogs also seem to have different sleep

requirements. Some very large breeds of dogs, like Newfoundlands,Saint Bernards, and mastiffs, often spend a great deal of their lives sleeping – perhaps up to sixteen or even eighteenhours a day even as adults.