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Why we Shouldn't Let us Dog Pee on Trees

Anyone who's ever owned dogs knows that the lovable creatures are potent forces of destruction. From vomiting squirrel parts on the sofa, to inhaling the girlfriend's laundry-basket panties, to arranging a trashcan's contents over the floor with the gusto of an FBI forensics team, some days it seems as if canines were bred solely to generate hilarious barroom anecdotes.

But might dogs be engaged in a more clandestine, less-funny campaign of attrition, one that is harming the very health of our urban landscape?

Carrie Maria certainly thinks so. As owner of one of Philadelphia's biggest dog-walking services, the "Monster Minders," Maria knows hounds – and she suspects they are destroying her city's plant life.

A couple of years ago, Maria took a walk around her home in Bella Vista armed with a camera. Following a sidewalk route frequented by many bowwows, she was able to amass aphotographic collection of disfigured trees in a matter of minutes. First, there was this mangy-looking specimen:

On this trunk, the bark was peeling off as if somebody had scorched it with hot lye:

Here's a tree bearing a mysterious white ring that looks bleached:

Maria isn't a total vegetation naif, having graduated from the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society's Tree Tenders program. After examining the evidence around her, she concluded that the best explanation for the mortally wounded trees was that dog owners let their pets repeatedly urinate on them.

"All over the city you can actually see evidence of burning on the trees. It's super easy: Just look down, and at the lower foot or two feet of the tree you can see fissures and cracking," she says. "I first thought, well, maybe it's just the salt" that municipal trucks spread during winter. "Then you notice that the trees with cages around them don't have these marks."

Urban trees are dealt a bad hand. They are deprived of adequate and good-quality soil, exposed to foreign chemicals, smacked by car doors and sometimes run over by construction equipment. In this harsh environment, a number of irritations can add up and drag a plant into a seriously bad state. Could dog urine be one of the things pushing our trees toward doom?

The Origins of Pee Theory

Whether pee hurts trees is a question that's attracted virtually no research attention since its earliest mention in the academic literature (earliest that I can find, anyway), "Why shade trees die along city streets," a presentation given in 1959 by Pascal Pirone at the International Shade Tree Conference. A plant pathologist at the New York Botanical Garden, Pirone was the first person to sound the klaxons on what he called “dog canker.”

This affliction typically manifested in the lower 2 feet of the trunk, he wrote, and could kill trees up to 6 inches in diameter. He said that a dog-heavy community might try locking a "metal collar" around a pee tree, but added it would be almost useless to do so, because "the dog's urine will still seep into the soil and root area to cause severe damage to the roots and premature death of the tree."

Pirone was not available to be interviewed about the plant-bane of dog piss. He escaped his earthly vessel in 2003, leaving behind the intriguing clue that it had to do with "large amounts of potassium." So I called a bunch of arborists and parks officials and asked them about the possible wounding effect of dog pee on vegetation.

The Smithsonian Institution's horticulture department was a notable skeptic of the "number one" theory. One staffer told me that the Philadelphia photo array “shows pictures of trunk damage on various trees, but this type of damage can be from many causes, including mechanical damage [i.e. mowers, car doors, pedestrians], southwest injury, disease [cankers], and insects [borers]."

Still, the general consensus does appear to be that, yes, an army of tail-waggers can be detrimental to a tree's health, particularly if it's young or has thin bark. Knowledgeable sources who believe Dog-Wee Death is real say it goes down in several different ways, as I'll explain shortly. But there's no firm agreement on which pee-mechanism is the most crippling.

"We deal with it in the sense that I imagine trees get added stress or maybe anxiety" from dogs, says John Thomas, associate director at Washington, D.C.'s Urban Forestry Administration. "I don't know how much dog urine you need to kill a tree. But there's definitely something there.... Somebody could definitely get a masters or Ph.D. out of studying it."

This deficit of information has left dog owners and tree lovers in the dark when it comes to the danger of yellow emissions. The result can be uncomfortable encounters between strangers passing on the street. Take this man's account of butting heads with his Park Slope neighbors after they spotted his pup unleashing "3 drops of pee" in a Polhemus Place tree box:

They told me to "stay off their block" and one of them took my picture, saying something about the block organization and everyone knowing who I am. Then one of them did the "shooing" gesture. I told them I thought something was wrong with both of them, and walked on.

So much about this chapped my lowly 7th Ave ass: The entitlement of these Polhemus residents, and THEIR trees, which are planted by the city. The picture, which made me feel like a playground perv. And the accusation that I was a bad dog owner AND a bad person, because urine was killing the trees.

And that wasn't nearly as bad as when another Park Sloper allowed his "big goofy friendly" pooch to dose a neighbor's shrub. That dog lover was allegedly informed, "Next time I see you, I’m going to fucking kill your dog."

A Dog's Love Affair With Trees

Why do dogs pee on trees? Or really on any vertical structure within hose range?

For the longest time, researchers thought it had to do with marking territory, kind of like how a gang member might tag a wall to scare off rivals. But recent investigations suggest that the urine squirts are much more complicated, and instead constitute a rich form of social interaction.

Psychologist Alexandra Horowitz, who works at Barnard College's Dog Cognition Lab, has studied the phenomenon long and hard. In her 2009 book, Inside of a Dog: What Dogs See, Smell, and Know, she argues that canines whiz on objects to give each other information on sexual readiness, social confidence and the crucial detail of whether they're a dog-about-town (meaning, how often they pass a location). "In this way," Horowitz writes, "the invisible pile of scents on the hydrant becomes a community bulletin board, with old, deteriorating announcements and requests peeking out from underneath more recent posts."

Last year, Wisconsin researchers who were monitoring dogs at a park called Muttland Meadows, and also at an experimental "urine course," concluded that the peeing had much to do about status. How'd they figure that? Well, they noted which dogs enjoyed the most popular regard by measuring the angle of their tails – the higher the angle, the more important the dog – and then correlated that with how often they "overmarked," or peed over another dog's urine. High-status dogs turned out to be the ones that overmarked the most.

Through that lens, what we view as a dog just ejecting its bladder contents everywhere is actually a crafty and ever-shifting game of one-upsmanship. Or a booty call. Whatever the case, keeping up the dialogue requires a whole lot of urine in play, and that's where the trees start to suffer.

The problem begins when dogs decide that one trunk is the hot place to moisten. This swarming can happen outside a pet-friendly apartment building, in a dog park, or in a neighborhood with a healthy dog population and tree boxes on the sidewalk. Carrie Maria has seen firsthand these canine pee orgies. "I know that there are trees in our neighborhood that dogs just gravitate toward," she says. "I don't know if it's one dog peeing on a tree, and then the rest of the dogs are like, YES! This is the tree we're all going to pee on."

When dogs single out a tree for a pee party, the plant sustains impairments in at least three areas. These are:

The bark

Regularly slathering a tree's skin with urine can cause "ammonium toxicity," says Nina Bassuk, program leader at Cornell University's Urban Horticulture Institute. "Ammonium is in all mammals' pee. It is a nitrogen source so a little bit is OK, but a lot is toxic.... It's a question of a little too much of a good thing."

Under its scaly armor, a tree has a layer of tissue called the cambium that makes it grow in diameter. The chemicals in urine can soak through exterior bark and damage this vital substance, explains Bassuk, either destroying the tree or impairing its growth. "It's like cutting off part of the circulatory system," she says. And a tree with a dysfunctional bark is easy prey to burrowing insects and oozing diseases like "bacterial wetwood."

The roots

A spokesperson for the New York City Department of Parks & Recreation e-mailed this statement when put to the dog question:

When urine is added to a tree pit, the extra salt can create a crust on the soil, which makes it almost impenetrable to water. Salt also draws out water from tree roots, further compounding water loss and simulating the effects of drought.... These problems are exacerbated because dog urine attracts more dogs to do the same. Tree pits are very limited in water, air, soil, and nutrient availability. The soil is also very compacted, which further intensifies these limitations and damages. Therefore, it’s important to limit animal waste in the pit to help keep the tree as healthy as possible so that it can fight off pests and diseases and grow to its full potential.

Sam Bishop, education director for Trees New York, says that on a dense city block where everybody's dog ends up using the same tree, the dirt can become highly polluted with salt. His organization has planted thousands of trees around New York City and now feels forced to defend them with signs reading, "Curb Your Dog."

Bishop says it is especially frustrating when he runs into New Yorkers who believe that their furchildren are actually doing the tree a favor. "I've heard people jokingly refer to it as 'watering the tree,' and some people think it's good for the plant and is fertilizing it," he says. "But no, no, it is not good for the plant."

The topsoil

Dogs tromping around in a tree box or a public park every day can make the ground as hard as "a base to pour a sidewalk on," says D.C.'s John Thomas. The constant pounding of thousands of paws squishes macrochambers of soil-locked air down into microchambers, destroying the earth's natural architecture and starving upper roots of oxygen. The surface becomes nearly impenetrable, so that when storms come the tree stays parched of rain.

"We see it in certain parks, like the one up by Mount Pleasant in the dog area," says Thomas. "Those trees were not doing so great before they started. They're doing even worse now because of compaction and feces and urine."

The D.C. government has reached out to pet owners to mitigate dog-based deforestation – for instance, working with communities to put up signs that might help protect a green space. Thomas says the results thus far have not been encouraging.

"It's hard, because dog owners are pretty avid, or pretty rabid, depending on what group you're dealing with," he says. "I love dogs and dog owners, but it's just a hard group to penetrate. They are kids to them, and they can get very defensive. We've had very little luck when we've gone into this kind of situation."

So Where Should Dogs Urinate?

If dogs are truly our surrogate children, why do we allow them to behave badly? Certainly most parents wouldn't let a toddler rip strips of bark from a city block's precious few trees.

No doubt much of it has to do with ignorance. That might change soon, as more and more pet owners flock to cities and drive up the costs of plant damage. In fact, you can already see that happening, according to Keith Pitchford.

Pitchford is an arborist who works with a citizen's group to plant new trees in D.C.'s Georgetown neighborhood. About five years ago the trees went into the ground unprotected. Now they go in barricaded with an attractive but formidable wrought-iron fence. These barriers are designed to ward off car-door punches, stampeding pedestrians and – you guessed it – steaming mutt juice.

"The final straw was really the dogs," says Pitchford, who adds that the metal-enhanced trees cost about $750 to erect, $400 more than the old, unguarded ones. "We used to plant 50 to 75 trees a year. Now we're putting fewer in, because we need more money for fencing." (Little does Georgetown know that ironwork is also susceptible to pee corrosion.)

Up in Manhattan, in the vast urinefields of Battery Park City, conservators have lodged complaints against what they deem reckless dog owners. "The health of trees at park entrances is seriously undermined by the carelessness of dog walkers," they gripe. The burden of cleaning off stained granite surfaces and replacing pee-mottled plants dings the park's tenders "tens of thousands of dollars annually."

In some cases, people seem to either not believe, or not care, that their doggies might be tearing holes in the urban scenery. After all, everyone knows why cities need pooper-scooper laws – visit Naples if you don't understand why leaving big turds on the sidewalk is a hassle – but what harm could a puddle of pee possibly cause?

This reasoning was on display in a dialogue among users of a D.C.-area Internet forum. After one homeowner politely asked her neighbors not to let their animals pee in her yard – oh yeah, dog urine kills grass, too – "nthehvns" came out of the woodwork to offer this presumptuous rebuttal: "Are dogs not allowed to pee while they are being walked? My dog pees in my yard and others while he is being walked. I'm not sure how I could even stop this."

Believe it or not, there is a way to stop it. That's not to try to biohack your dog to alter its urine chemistry, despite all the folksy prescriptions for tomato-juice or baking-soda cocktails. It's to curb the animal, which means train it to unload in the gutter. That's where you're supposed to do it anyway, according to laws in many large cities like New York.

"We all have to share public spaces, and as dog owners if we want to get respect from our neighbors, we have to give them respect," says Philadelphia's Maria, who recently put out a sign requesting that passersby allow her, and not dogs, to water the tree in front of her home. "It's not anti-dog. It's just pro-tree."

What to Do if Your Housetrained Dog Pees or Poops Indoors

Let’s face it, usually when people say “But he’s housetrained!,” he really, really isn’t. But there are exceptions. This week I’ll talk about some reasons dogs may pee or poop indoors even though they’re housetrained, and what you can do about it.

What to Do if Your Puppy Pees When Excited or Anxious

Most of us have had the pleasure of meeting a puppy who’s ecstatically happy to greet humans. Sometimes the pleasure is a mixed one, as when said puppy excitedly pees all over our shoes. Other puppies, a bit shy and submissive, roll on their backs and squirt, especially when a person bends over them, and double especially if the person is big and/or male and/or a little assertive in demeanor.

This may be my favorite dog problem, because unlike every other dog problem it will usually go away if you leave it alone. All by himself, the puppy will grow up and develop adequate muscular control. In the case of shy, submissive puppies, “leaving it alone” includes avoiding the Giant Human Loom-Over and whatever other behaviors set the puppy off. Teaching a pup to sit for greetings, or ignoring her till she relaxes, will often help her hold her stuff. Generally, submissive and excitement urination will resolve by the time doggy adolescence strikes.

You do have it in your power to make this problem worse, of course. Get your excited pee-er amped on purpose when you greet her, or shout at the shy pup when he dribbles, and watch that stream grow.

Medical Problems That Can Cause Your Dog to Pee or Poop Indoors

A host of medical problems can lead your dog to eliminate indoors. I’ll mention a few examples, but many more exist. And those I do describe may have symptoms I don’t mention here. The short version is, suspect a medical problem if your dog’s behavior has changed suddenly, if she’s old, or if you’re sticking to a regular, careful housetraining schedule and your puppy is having frequent accidents anyway.

Sudden, urgent digestive upset may come on too strong for even the best-housetrained dog. Possible causes include rich or spoiled food and certain parasites. A dog with a urinary tract infection may need to go much more often than usual and may dribble small amounts of urine. If you have a spayed female dog who leaks urine in her sleep, a possible cause is estrogen incontinence, which is usually treatable with inexpensive medication. Elderly dogs who develop canine cognitive disorder, a doggy analogue of Alzheimer’s disease, may lose their housetraining as the condition progresses. Pain from arthritis, an injury, or illness can leave a dog reluctant to take a walk or make it hard for her to get into position to pee or poop. The bladder and bowels may wind up overfull and impossible to control.

Increased water intake accompanies some illnesses, diabetes among them; if you don’t happen to notice that your dog is filling up more than normal and supply extra toilet breaks to compensate, he may be unable to hold his urine until his next walk. Certain medications may make animals feel thirsty, too -- steroids are famous for this. If your dog’s indoor pees coincide with a new medication or an increased dose of an old one, it’s well worth asking your vetwhether thirst or incontinence is a possible side effect. Malformations of the rectum and sphincter or of the urinary tract can make it impossible for a dog to control eliminations. My older dog’s anal sphincter has lost muscle tone. Result: sometimes when she springs up with joy at going for a walk, she drops a few little items from behind. Oh, well.

Behavioral Causes of Peeing or Pooping Indoors

Inappropriate elimination can signal certain behavior problems. The commonest might be separation anxiety, which in its more intense forms could be called separation panic. One sign of true separation anxiety is that the dog may chew and claw at doors and windows, apparently trying to escape; another is that he may let go of urine and stool. Thunderstorm phobia can produce the same result, as can terror in other contexts. It’s not unheard of for a dog to let loose during severe punishment. I’m tempted to say that in that case the behavior problem isn’t in the dog, but harsh, ill-informed advice is everywhere and even the best and kindest people can be misled into following it.

What if Your Dog Is Afraid to Go Outdoors?

Dogs too afraid to go outside will obviously sooner or later eliminate indoors. Sometimes the fear arises after a specific terrifying event. More commonly, dogs who fear going outdoors didn’t get appropriate socialization in early puppyhood; completely normal life experiences strike them as strange and alarming. That is among the saddest behavior problems any consultant sees -- crucial parts of early development have been missed, and the resulting fear of the wide world can sometimes be ameliorated but can’t be undone. Some dogs can learn to feel reasonably comfortable in a few outdoor contexts or at certain times. For others, the best we can do is teach them to use a designated spot indoors so there isn’t any pressure to go out.

When Your Dog Pees in His New Home

Some dogs, especially male dogs, start life in a new adoptive home by marking every vertical surface they can find, indoors as well as out. It’s best to treat this as a housetraining problem, just in case it turns out to be one, but often enough it seems to be a result of stress. As the dog settles into a clear and consistent routine and becomes comfortable, the indoor marking fades away.

Fortunately, most inappropriate elimination can be -- um, eliminated, either through remedial housetraining or through treatment of the underlying physical or emotional problem. See your vet and consult a competent behavior professionalfor help. For tips on how to housetrain your dog or puppy, you can see my episode on that topic at dogtrainer.quickanddirtytips.com.

Why does dog urine cause brown spots on grass?

Question: Why does dog urine cause brown spots on grass?

Help! My dog's urine is killing my lawn. Why does dog pee make the grass turn brown or yellow? How can I stop this? I love my dog but I would like a nice lawn too.

Answer:

Grass burns from dog urine are a source of frustration for dog owners who take pride in a beautiful lawn. Brown or yellow spots of dead grass are unsightly, but some dog owners feel that it's just part of living with dogs. In fact, there are ways to prevent grass burns from dog urine.

While nitrogen is an essential component in healthy soil, high concentrations of it can cause grass to turn yellow or brown. Urine is naturally high in nitrogen and alone can cause grass burns. However, lawn fertilizer also contains nitrogen. An excess of either or a combination of urine and fertilizer may result in an overdose of nitrogen, thus "burning" the grass. Salts and other compounds in dog urine may also contribute to grass burn. In addition, highly acidic or alkaline urine may alter pH of the soil in that area of your yard, adversely affecting the grass there.

It may seem like female dog urine causes more trouble to the lawn than male dog urine. This is simply because most females tend to squat and urinate in one place, while many males lift the leg and "mark" upright objects in multiple locations. The composition of a dog's urine does not vary that much between male and female dogs, especially when spayed or neutered.

There are a few ways to prevent brown or yellow spots on your lawn caused by dog urine. You can try more than one option at a time for maximum results. There is no guaranteed way to end urine spots in the yard, but the following methods might help stop grass burns caused by dog urine:

Train your dog to urinate in one area and plant a urine-resistant ground covering in that area. One great option for this is clover. You might also try creating a dog-friendly landscape in your entire yard.

Give your dog a supplement or food additive that is designed to neutralize the nitrogen in the urine. One example of this type of product is Naturvet Grass Saver (compare prices). As alway, ask your vet before starting any supplement. Additionally, never attempt to alter your dog's urine pH unless specifically recommended by your vet.

Immediately after your dog urinates, use a garden hose to rinse off the area. You might also consider switching to a low-nitrogen fertilizer for your lawn (make sure it's pet-safe too).

Remember that other animals might have access to your yard and their urine can cause lawn damage as well. A fence will keep out any dogs passing by, but cats and various wild animals are not so easy to stop. This may or may not explained continued brown or yellow spots in the yard after implementing the above recommendations.

Stop your dog urine marking its territory in the house

Why Dogs mark territory with urine &Tips to prevent Dog Peeing (marking) inside the House

Don't confuse urine marking with wanting to pee

If you find large puddles of urine on the floor it is more likely that the dog had to pee and couldn't or didn't want to go out. With urine marking the dog deposits a smaller amount of urine. Marking in the house is usually done to an upright surface such as a doorway, table leg or piece of furniture. The dog will lift his hind leg and mark urine on practically any object in your house. Quite often the object is something new or different with unfamiliar smells that has come into the house but not necessarily so. He is also likely to mark items that he feels belong to him such as anything that he has become possessive about including you. He thinks you are his possession and any objects related to you are also his possessions.

Why do dogs lift their leg and mark territory with urine?

Dog urine marking is not a bathroom training issue but rather an issue concerning a whole range of instinctive behaviors. Your dog may be fully housetrained and would not dream of peeing in the house but to a dog lifting his leg to scent mark is not the same as wanting to have a pee.

We as humans tend to think of dog urine as something unpleasant but to a dog it is something of great interest. A dog leaves it's scent in urine to tell other dogs a message. This message could be about whose territory it is, about the dog's social order or advertising mating availability. 

Dogs use urine marking to show their dominance or to claim something as belonging to them. Dogs with feelings of insecurity or who have separation anxiety may also mark, as territory marking builds the dog's confidence.

Do all dogs urine mark inside the house?

Most dogs that are neutered or spayed at an early age do not mark in the house. Prevention is better than cure.

Male dogs that are not castrated are more likely to mark than castrated dogs.

Although male dogs are more likely to mark urine than females it is not unknown for a female dog to scent mark too. Often a female dog coming into heat or during it will mark to advertise her availability. A dominant female will also mark.

Female dogs may also urinate over a spot where another dog has urinated.

Small breeds tend to pee (mark) in the house more than larger dogs.

Two or more dogs living together in the same house may regard each other as competition and are more prone to urine marking. Urine marking can be a dominance issue. There may be no problem with one dog but when a second dog is introduced into the house then this may be the beginning of marking problems.

Why has my dog suddenly begun marking in the house when he didn't do it before?

Usually it is because of feelings of insecurity or a perceived threat. This perceived threat, for example, can be an introduction of a new baby, a new pet, a visitor or even a new piece of furniture. The smell of other animals on your footwear or clothing can also trigger a dog to feel the need to mark his territory.

For example, a new baby in the home brings new sounds, smells, and people, as well as changes in routine. Your dog may not be getting as much attention as previously. Changes cause him to feel anxious, which may cause him to mark.

Some dogs feel the need to lift their leg and pee on all new things that enter your house, shopping bags, visitors belongings, new furniture, children's toys etc. Many of these dogs are lacking in confidence and by marking new objects it makes them feel more secure having deposited their own scent on these objects.

Some dogs will never mark in their own house but will embarrass you by marking if you visit a friend or relative's home. Your dog feels less secure there and feels the need to make it more comfortable to him by laying down a few of his own familiar scents.

Even a previously housetrained neutered male dog will urine mark under certain circumstances. This doesn’t mean it will become a regular problem. He may urine mark one or twice in a new home and then never do it again.

How to stop your dog marking urine in the house

Below are some tips to prevent or stop your dog peeing in the house.

Neuter

For pet dogs, early neutering will stop marking behavior in the majority of dogs. Neutering at an early age can prevent the habit forming.

For older dogs, neutering may still have the desired effect but marking in the house may have become a habit that you will have to break. Try the supervision method below.

In one study the following was found. "Our research shows that neither age at time of neutering nor duration of the problem behavior has influence on the likelihood that a behavior will change following neutering, thus one need not think that because a male dog has been engaging in problem urine marking or aggressive behavior for five years that it is too late to consider neutering. "Center for Companion Animal Health, UC Davis"

Testosterone seems to play a role in urine marking. At least one study has shown that neutering a dog at any age will help prevent it. It can't be guaranteed that neutering a dog is going to magically cure this problem but if you don't neuter a male dog, your chances of breaking the habit are greatly reduced.

Of course neutering isn't always an option as you may wish to breed your dog.

Supervise and Break the Habit

You MUST catch him in the act! DOGS LEARN QUICKLY FROM THIS

Close supervision is necessary. You must be dedicated to stop the marking behavior of your dog and you must be consistent. A couple of weeks or often much less time of intense supervision and correction can save you a lifetime of tearing your hair out trying to find a quick fix for the problem. Some people have reported that it has only taken a day or two using the intense supervision method.

Confine your dog to one area of the house where you can watch him. Shut doors to other areas of the house or barricade them off with baby gates or improvise with whatever is at hand.

If barricading is not possible another option is to put your dog on a retractable lead while he is in the house with you and for you to have total control at all times.

Make yourself a Shaker Bottle or Shaker Can

A shaker can is simply an empty cola can with a several coins inside it. The opening is taped over to prevent the coins flying out. It makes a lot of noise when you shake it up and down.

A shaker bottle is a plastic bottle with some small pebbles or coins placed inside.

Watch your dog for any signs (such as sniffing and circling) that he is even thinking about marking. The moment he begins to lift his leg shake the can once only to get his attention. The loud noise should startle him and interrupt what he is doing. As he looks towards where the noise has come from. Give him the command in a stern voice 'NO PEE'. Sometimes throwing the can in his general direction works well too but be careful not to hit him with it as you only want to startle him not harm him.

OK, so you have stopped him peeing once. Now you have to be consistent and diligent and continue with the behavior modification each and every time you see him attempt to mark urine.

Do not rant, rave or smack your dog at any time. Punishment will make an insecure dog more insecure.

This method is not intended for house training your puppy, only for urine marking. Potty training is another issue. You may wish to read this article: How to potty train your dog or puppy

Praise him when he pees where you want him to

Don't forget to praise your dog when he marks in an appropriate place. If you are outside and he marks on a tree or other acceptable object or area tell him what a good boy he is. Tell him, 'Pee here, good boy' in a happy voice. Dogs learn quickly from positive responses to their behavior.

The message you are trying to get across to him is that urine marking isn't bad, but that marking inside the house isn't such a good idea.

When you go out

Dogs who suffer separation anxiety may pee while you are out. They are not peeing out of spite because you left them, dogs just don't think like this. They are feeling anxious at being left alone. Try leaving them an item of yourworn clothing with your familiar smells on it. This just might be enough to settle their anxiety.

Confinement is the only answer for some dogs

Some dogs will never be able to be trusted with the run of the house. Although inconvenient to you it may be necessary to close doors to certain rooms and only allow freedom in the rooms he can be trusted. Another alternative is to use Belly Bands (see below)

Deterrents

Spray Commander is a system which uses a device that is attached to the dog's collar which delivers a harmless but unpleasant spray to the dog. You activate the spray with a remote control when you catch the dog in the act of inappropriate behavior such as urine marking on your furniture.

The system comes complete with everything you need including a detailed instruction guide DVD.

You can buy Spray Commander online. The cost depending on where you buy it is between $100 and $140. For more information visit the Spray Commander website. Watch a video on how it works

ScatMats can also be used to deter pets from entering a certain area. The Scat Mat is a touch-sensitive training pad that quickly conditions pets to avoid prohibited areas with harmless, low-power electronic pulses similar to static electricity.

You may be able to deter your from dog peeing on the furniture by attaching strips of aluminum foil to his favorite spots. The urine will make a noise when hitting the foil and may splash back on him. This may deter some dogs but it will have no effect on others. You could also try putting his water bowl in his favorite spot.

Cleaning is important

You must thoroughly clean areas where your dog has peed in the past and completely remove the scent to discourage your dog from re-offending in the same place. Use a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water and wash the soiled areas well.

Avoid using ammonia based products to clean dog urine. One of the ingredients of dog urine is ammonia and he may well be encouraged to re-offend in the same area. Remember, your dog's sense of smell is a hundred times better than yours.

Visiting Friends

If you think your dog is likely to urine mark in your friend's house don't give him the opportunity to do so. Keep him on a leash at all times. You can walk him around the new environment on the leash and if he gives the slightest hint that he may cock his leg give the leash a quick short tug and tell him 'NO'. Or you could take your Shaker Can with you. You may eventually be able to trust him but if the house you are visiting has pets living there it could be a very challenging task.

New Baby?

If your dog has newly acquired the habit of urine marking since bringing a new baby home you will need to reassure him that he is still loved and part of the family. Involve him in fun activities while the baby is around making the baby and associated baby smells less of a threat to him.

Belly Bands

Sometimes it can be very difficult to stop your dog peeing everywhere in the house, on your furniture and other objects.

Dog Urine Smell Removal

How to get rid of dog urine smells and stains out of carpets and rugs. 

This home remedy for cleaning dog urine from carpets is easy and inexpensive and it really works! Below is a recipe which removes dog urinesmell and stains from carpets and rugs even if the urine has dried and is old.

For whatever reason your dog has peed on the carpet the outcome is the same. A smelly carpet! When your dog pees on the carpet it leaves an odor that your dog may repeatedly return to. Avoid using ammonia based products to clean dog urine. One of the ingredients of dog urine is ammonia and he may well be encouraged to re-offend in the same area. Remember, your dog's sense of smell is a hundred times better than yours.

tep 1 

If the area is still wet you should first attempt to absorb the dog urine. Leaving it there to dry out will only encourage bacterial growth which causes the smell.

The best method is to place several layers of paper towel over the wet area and tread on it so as to soak up as much of the dog urine as you possibly can. You may have to repeat this several times until no more dog urine can be soaked up.

Sometimes dog urine accidents have already dried because you did not notice them previously. You can find dried urine spots on your carpet with the aid of a black light. The dog urine stains will fluoresce under the ultra violet light in a darkened room. Hand held black lights are quite inexpensive usually costing between $15 - $25.

Of course, you can always save the expense of a black light. Find the urine spots by using your nose. Just get down on your carpet and sniff and find the offensive urine odors that way.

Step 2

Mix a solution of fifty percent white vinegar and fifty percent water. You must use a liberal amount of this solution to reach the carpet fibers deep down. Work the solution into the carpet with a scrubbing brush to ensure it penetrates the carpet fibers below.

Then blot the area using the paper towel method above to absorb the vinegar mixture. The vinegar will neutralize the ammonia in the dog urine. If you own a wet/dry vacuum extractor use that to remove excess moisture.

Step 3 

When the area has dried or almost dried sprinkle a good handful of baking soda over the soiled area.

Mix half a cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide with a teaspoon of detergent. Plain liquid dishwashing detergent is required. Do not use caustic dishwasher detergent.

Caution: Do not use hydrogen peroxide that is stronger than 3% or stronger than 10 Volume. Bleaching may occur on some carpets with stronger solutions. A spot test in an inconspicuous area is advised.

Step 4

Slowly pour the hydrogen peroxide and dishwashing detergent mixture over the baking soda. (Alternatively you can use a spray bottle for the hydrogen peroxide solution). Then work the baking soda and hydrogen peroxide mixture well into the carpet with your fingers or with a scrubbing brush.

Allow the area to dry completely. Once the area is thoroughly dry, vacuum up the baking soda. Use a hard bristled brush to loosen up the baking soda if necessary.

That's all there is to it. Your carpet will smell fresh and free from urine odor.

If you don't have hydrogen peroxide on hand you could substitute it in an emergency for a spray laundry stain remover. Check the bottle. If it says 'Oxy' anywhere on the label then it probably contains hydrogen peroxide.

In areas that have been heavily soiled with dog urine you may have to repeat the process again.

Why Dogs Do Strange Things

Part of the reason we love dogs is for their unconditional love and curious nature. Some of their most endearing qualities may also stump us from time to time: the furious digging, the inexplicable rolling in stinky, smelly stuff, and the ritualistic nesting at bedtime.

Many of these strange behaviors common to dogs are believed to be tied to the days when they ran in packs, dug shallow dwellings and gathered their own chow.

Birds Aren’t the Only Nesters

Natalie Wolford of Phoenix, Ariz. has two Chihuahuas, Leo and Bella. Their strange habits include “digging” a bed each night before lying down to sleep.

“Bella goes under the covers near my feet and turns and turns until she starts pawing and pawing before finally plopping down,” says Natalie. “Leo does it sometimes but it’s the same thing every night with Bella.”

So why does Bella nest each night?

Before dogs were domesticated some 100 years back, they dug shallow beds to keep them a bit warmer than simply snoozing on the ground’s surface.

The bedtime ritual might also be linked to a dog’s instinct to mark his or her territory. Dogs mark the area that they consider theirs by scratching the ground with the smell that comes from the sweat glands in their paws.

While Natalie’s dogs conduct harmless pawing, some dogs shred whatever they can get their paws on. If this is the case, get your dog a bed of her own with a lose fill such as cedar chips. (Dogs are more likely to adapt to a bed placed in spots they already consider their territory.)

Many of these strange behaviors common to dogs are believed to be tied to the days when they ran in packs.

Dogs Dig Digging

Dogs dig for lots of reasons: As a means to get somewhere, hide food, explore and, frankly, just for fun.

This knack for getting dirt between the paws goes back to the days when they dug dens and buried their leftovers. Watching other dogs and owners dig can also encourage the urge to make a hole of their own.

If digging causes a problem, fill favorite spots with rocks and a smell they dislike such as chili pepper or their own feces. You can nudge them into digging in a designated spot by burying a treat there and cheering them on as they make the discovery.

Your dog could be sending you a message by the holes he’s digging, according to The Secret Lives of Dogs:

Holes near fences indicate something of interest on the other side or boredom.

Holes adjacent to the house could mean your dog is lonely and wants to come in.

Shallow holes could mean your dog is trying to get comfortable by warming up or cooling down.

What’s That Smell?

Many a pooch enjoys rolling in some smelly stuff from piles of autumn leaves to dirt, snow and, unfortunately, even the droppings and carcasses of other creatures.

Dogs might prefer a good roll to itch a scratch. Dogs who sometimes rub around after a bath might be attempting to remove the sweet shampoo smell.

Reeling in something smelly could be your dog’s way of saying that he found something interesting and he wants you to know. Or he could be marking his territory. He may enjoy the smell of something so much that chafing against it is his way of taking that lovely smell along with him.

Most rolling and rubbing is harmless. But if your dog picks up a totally unruly scent, freshen him up with odor neutralizers rather than shampoos, which may enhance the stench – err – scent.

Approach a Strange Dog

Making contact with a dog you’ve never met can be a dangerous proposition. Always remember that he is possibly frightened by your attention, and if your friendly overtures are mistaken for threats, the dog may become violent.

How to tell a friendly dog from a potentially unfriendly one?

You’ll know the friendly dog right away from his attitude and body language: He'll come up to you openly, his nose sniffing to catch your scent, his tail wagging and held high, and he may or may not throw in a friendly bark for good measure. But how to tell if a dog is potentially friendly but also shy? Maybe he’d like to become your buddy but he’s wary of you. Always exercise caution with any dog you don’t know, but if you follow these steps there’s a good chance the shy dog may feel comfortable enough to become your new friend.

Get the dog’s attention: Make a soft noise with your tongue, or talk to him quietly. Whatever you do, don’t startle him.

Approach the dog VERY slowly. Try to appear as small as possible by moving in a half-crouch, coming down toward the dog’s level, but remember to stay attentive to his posture and attitude. Do NOT get down on your hands and knees, since that would make it harder for you to get away if the dog decided to attack. Stop when you get within 10-15 feet of him.

Be patient. Allow the dog to come the rest of the way to meet you. Call to him in a soothing voice. He’ll either take you up on your offer or he won’t. Be respectful of his choice, and do not move any closer to him. You may wish to toss him a bit of food at this point, if you have some. Slowly and gently, toss the morsel underhand to one side of him. Never throw the food directly at the dog.

If he does come the rest of the way to meet you:

• Be careful not to make “threatening gestures”: Never stare the dog directly in the eye. Dogs interpret this as a sign of aggression, and may think you’re looking for a fight. Instead, look off to one side of the dog. Stretch out your hand toward him so that the back of your hand is facing him. This is less threatening than an open hand, and also lessens the chances that your fingers could be bitten.
• Remain motionless as the dog sniffs at your hand. Let him take as long as he needs to accomplish this task – it’s very important to him! Let him finish his examination of your hand, then SLOWLY move the same hand to just behind one of his ears, and scratch or pet gently. Watch constantly for his reaction, and don’t insist if your movement makes him nervous. If he doesn’t like having you move your hand where he can’t see it, pat the side of his neck or his chest instead.

If he declines your invitation and decides not to approach you: 

• Watch his body language very carefully. Dogs always give plenty of warning before they attack. If a dog is showing signs of fear or unease (especially if he’s cornered or restrained and can’t run away), leave him alone immediately. Your attention is not welcome. But if he seems neutral or curious and is exhibiting none of the warning signs mentioned below, you may slowly - VERY slowly - start to take a few SMALL steps in his direction if you think he’s undecided but just shy. Stay alert as you do so. Calmly and slowly stop and back away if he starts to snarl, bare his teeth or exhibit any threatening signs at all. Do NOT run away. Remaining calm is always your best defense.

Some of the common fear or attack signals you should watch out for: 

• Shrill barking
• Teeth bared, with or without growling
• Hackles raised
• Staring directly in your eye
• Crouching with muscles tensed and with tail held rigid, possibly between the legs
• Standing with muscles tensed and with tail held rigid at ‘half-mast’
• Ears flattened
• Coming directly toward you with head lowered
• Attempting to circle and get behind you

What to do if a strange dog approaches you:

• Stop. Stand still and do not move your hands or body.
• Speak softly to him.
• Wait to see what the dog’s attitude is. If he’s friendly, crouch down and react carefully as described earlier, always watching to make sure his attitude remains friendly and non-threatening. If he seems agitated in any way, remain calm and do nothing to approach him or interact with him.
• If he tries to circle and get behind you, pivot slowly, so that you are always facing him. Do not move your arms or legs as you pivot.
• Never turn your back on a dog that is moving toward you. Do NOT panic and run. Wait until he stops moving before you move, and then move slowly, backing away from him. Stop when he moves again.
• Never strike or kick or make any threatening physical moves toward any dog, whether a strange dog or one you already know.

Some Tips for Greeting a Strange Dog

How do you greet a strange dog? One of our posts last week dealt with our unorthodox solution to stop people from getting in Ty’s face. This guest post from Deborah Flick is an awesome follow up. Thanks Deborah!

Last fall I attended a weekend-long presentation by dog trainer, behaviorist, and author extraordinaire, Jean Donaldson, at the Humane Society of Boulder Valley. Jean presented a litany of offenses that humans, with the best of intentions, commit against unsuspecting canines. I cringed as she went down her list.

1. Neglect to ask the dog’s person for permission to meet their dog. GUILTY

2. Reach over the dog’s head and pat, pat, pat. GUILTY

3. Put your face up close to the dog’s face and coo, “Gimme a kiss.” GUILTY.

4. Spot a dog you want to meet, make direct, unblinking eye contact, and quicken your step as you walk directly toward the dog while making high- pitched vocalizations. GUILTY

5. You see an irresistible bundle of fur and walk up to the dog from the rear and enthusiastically rub his or her cute little tush. GUILTY

6. Approach a dog by looking directly at her and as you near with your arms extended clap, clap, clap your hands or click your fingers right at the dog’s face.GUILTY

7. You see a sweet dog laying down. You crouch over at the waist, outstretch your arm and very slowly slink toward the dog while looking directly into her eyes.GUILTY

8. Assume that because you love dogs, all dogs love you, too, and that you possess a special affinity for dogs and they with you, and therefore, you can forego the formalities that ordinary humans should observe. GUILTY

Guilty … and lucky. Any one of these situations could have ended in disaster for me and maybe, unfortunately, for the poor unsuspecting dog.

So, I set up an experiment. I asked my partner to catch me unaware, stare me in the eye while approaching, and then rapidly swish his hand past my eyes, over my forehead, and pat, pat, pat me on the head. (Go on, try it.) We talked about this little experiment on a Sunday, life intervened, and I forgot about the conversation. On the following Wednesday, he rapidly approached, flashed his hand past my eyes and pat, pat, patted my head. I ducked, scrunched my face in disgust and pulled my head away. He continued to stare, smiling and squealing how cute I was and then pat, pat, patted again. I ducked again and backed farther away. If I had canines for teeth I might have been tempted to flash them and growl to warn him off – and I know this man. Imagine if I didn’t!

Well, that’s pretty much what our dog’s experience and that’s Jean Donaldson’s point! Dogs have their own language and protocols for meeting strange dogs (and people) and it’s high time we learned what they are. After all, it just doesn’t seem fair that the full burden of figuring out how to live with another species should fall entirely on our dogs. We need to hold up our end of the relationship by learning to politely greet a stranger.

So … How do you greet a strange dog? Here are some do’s and don’ts:

1. Don’t approach the dog. Pretend you are ignoring the dog. Dogs prefer not to be zeroed in on by strangers. Have you ever noticed how well-mannered dogs meeting for the first time turn their heads away from each other?

2. Ask the dog’s person for permission to meet their dog. Assuming they say yes, follow the steps below.

3. Stay relaxed. You can yawn, put on an easy smile, or slowly blink your eyelids. Keep you body loose. All these signal to the dog that you are not a threat.

4. Do not look the dog in the eyes. While eye contact signals trustworthiness to most Westerners, in the dog world it signals aggression or threat.

5. Turn your body so you are not facing the dog. Again, being face-to-face is polite to most of us, but can signal threat or aggressive intentions to a dog. Notice how well-mannered dogs greet – as they approach they make a half-moon curve as they pass each other and turn nose to butt.

6. Stand straight or squat. Do not crouch over the dog. I doubt you want to be crouched over by a stranger and neither does your dog. It’s threatening.

7. Allow the dog to come to you. Most dogs are naturally curious and they will let you know if they are interested in you. If not, don’t take it personally.

8. If the dog shows interest by sniffing you with a relaxed posture, tail wag (not all dogs will wag and not all wagging is friendly), perhaps looking at you with soft eyes – then you can slowly offer the dog your hand for investigation.

9. Let the dog sniff your hand, if she wants to, and then gently touch the dog on the shoulder, neck or chest, not the top of the head.

10. The dog will clearly tell you if she wants more interaction or if she is finished with you. Listen to her.

11. If at any time during the interaction the dog backs away, stop what you are doing.

If you take one thing away from this post, make it this: NEVER bend over and reach your out-stretched arm to a strange dog. Dogs will love you for it.

Male Dog’s Reproductive System

The male reproductive system in a dog is made up of the scrotum, testicles, epididymides, deferent ducts, spermatic cords, prostate, penis and urethra. Understanding the structure and function of these organs can help you identify when any problems crop up which may need veterinary attention.

Elements of the reproductive tract

Hanging between the dog’s hind legs is a sac known as the scrotum which holds and protects the testicles. The scrotal pouch is divided into two separate areas by a thin wall running down the middle. Inside each area are one testicle, one epididymis, and the head of one spermatic cord. The scrotal sac, which does not contain any insulating fat, keeps the testicles several degrees cooler than the abdomen, which is important for sperm motility.

The testicles are oval shaped, with the left testicle usually hanging slightly behind the right. Inside the testicles are seminiferous tubules, responsible for the production of sperm. Sertoli cells fill the area around the tubules, supporting the tubules and providing nutrition to the sperm cells. The Leydig cells of the testicles are responsible for the production of the male hormone testosterone.

The epididymis (plural: epididymides) begins at the front of the testicle and runs along the edge to the back. It is responsible for storing and carrying sperm to the ductus deferens prior to ejaculation. The sperm stays in the epididymides for a relatively long period of time, allowing the cells to mature.

Spermatic cords are composed of vessels and nerves which nourish the testicles. The ductus deferens are also contained inside the spermatic cords. The ductus runs into the abdominal cavity through the inguinal canal, then leaves the abdomen, running through the prostate and ending at the urethra.

Although the exact function of the prostate gland is unknown, it is thought that it secretes substances necessary to protect and activate the sperm. This accessory sex gland contributes as much as 90% of the fluid that is released when the dog ejaculates.

Once they have matured in the epididymis, the sperm cells enter the ductus deferens, which has strong muscular walls. The muscular walls of the ductus contract to push the sperm into the urethra, which runs the length of the penis. The urethra then releases sperm into the female when the dog ejaculates.

The penis has three portions: the root, the body, and the glans. The root and body are made of spongy tissue surrounding a bone known as the os penis. The glans is soft but swells with blood during sexual stimulation. This swelling is important because it keeps the penis locked into the female dog’s vagina, allowing the dogs to “tie” to each other to promote successful passage of sperm from the male to the female.

Covering the penis is the prepuce, a tubular piece of skin which protects the penis. The prepuce secrets a lubricating liquid known as smegma which keeps the penis moist.

Hormonal control of the male canine reproductive system

The cells of the testicles are under the control of the hypothalamus and pituitary gland of the brain. The hypothalamus releases gonadal releasing factor, which stimulates the pituitary to secrete follicle stimulating hormone and luteinizing hormone. Both hormones travel to the testicles, where FSH stimulates the seminiferous tubules to produce sperm and LH stimulates the Leydig cells to produce testosterone.

Sperm, of course, is used to impregnate female dogs. Testosterone is responsible for the development of male sexual characteristics during puberty. This includes higher muscle mass, thicker bones, more red blood cells, and a higher metabolic rate.

Diseases of the male reproductive tract in dogs

Before a puppy is born, his testicles reside in his abdominal cavity. At birth, they begin to move slowly through the groin area and into the scrotum. The trip should be complete by 6 – 8 weeks of age. In some puppies, one or both of the testicles may fail to descend at all, or may get stuck part of the way through the trip. This condition, known as cryptorchidism or undescended testicle, keeps the testicle trapped in the relatively high temperature of the pelvic cavity, making the affected testicle incapable of producing sperm. Undescended testicles have a higher incidence of tumor development as the dog ages. This condition has a genetic component, so dogs with an undescended testicle should not be bred.

Other problems which may occur in the testicles are inflammation known as orchitis or torsion, which occurs when the testicle becomes twisted on itself. Both of these conditions cause your dog considerable pain as well as infertility. You may notice your dog walking strangely or wanting to lay on cold surfaces to relieve the pain.

The epididymis may become inflamed due to bacterial or viral infections, trauma, or diseases of the immune system.

The most common problem which occurs in the prostate is benign prostatic hypertrophy (BPH). In un-neutered dogs, the continual influence of testosterone causes the prostate to gradually enlarge. The enlargement may block both the urinary tract and the rectum causing the dog to strain when he relieves himself. Other problems of the prostate include infection, cysts, and tumors, which are usually malignant.

The prepuce can also be the site of several disorders. If the opening of the prepuce is abnormally small, the dog may not be able to protrude his penis through the opening, making sexual intercourse impossible. This condition is known as phimosis.

At the other end of the spectrum, if the dog cannot withdraw his penis into the prepuce, the condition is known as paraphimosis. This condition can be treated by applying ice to the dog’s penis to encourage it to become less erect, allowing the dog to retract it.

Priapism is a condition where the dog’s penis remains erect in the absence of sexual activity. This is typically the result of an infection or a spinal cord injury.

The prepuce may become inflamed due to infections, which may include sexually-transmitted diseases.

How will the vet check my dog for reproductive problems?

Your vet will first interview you to find out about the dog’s medical history so he can choose which tests will be most beneficial. It is important that you spend enough time observing your dog’s normal behavior in order to know when something has changed. You are your dog’s best advocate, so make sure you can give your vet an accurate description of any problems you are seeing.

Next, your vet may want to run an analysis of the dog’s blood and urine. This will help her rule out any systemic infections which may be causing the problems. Serologic testing of the blood can indicate the presence or absence of Brucellosis, a bacterial infection that is often the cause of reproductive tract disorders in male dogs.

X-rays of the abdomen can point out problems with internal structures, as can ultrasound inspection of the prostate and testicles.

If a tumor is suspected, your vet may take a biopsy of solid tissues or may aspirate the liquid from a fluid-filled tumor for microscopic analysis.

If you are concerned about your dog’s fertility, your vet may want to examine a sperm sample under the microscope to check for the quantity and quality / motility of the cells. Sperm may be collected by using what is known as a “teaser bitch”, which is just what it sounds like, or by the vet stimulating the dog by hand.

The importance of neutering

Neutering a dog involves the removal of both testicles, making the dog unable to produce sperm. Within a week or two after the surgery, your dog’s scrotal sacs will simply shrink and become unnoticeable. If you value the look of an intact dog, there are prosthetic testicles which can be inserted to maintain the scrotal sac size. The penis is not removed during neutering because it houses the urethra and has a function other than carrying sperm. It also carries urine from the bladder, directing it outside of the body.

Aside from reducing overpopulation problems, there are health reasons for neutering your dog as soon as possible after he joins your family. For example, a neutered dog cannot develop testicular cancer or benign prostatic hypertrophy. There is also some evidence that a neutered dog will be less aggressive than an intact dog.