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10/30/12
What is my Dog Trying to Tell me
Think for a moment about going to a bridal shower after a long day at the office, a 90-minute traffic snarl, and four customer service misunderstandings to get your bank card reactivated. Most likely, you aren’t in the mood for a “fun” time. Nevertheless, it’s an important event for the bride. Putting on a fresh dress and your best party face, you go, even though you would rather snuggle up with the dogs on the couch and throw in a movie. When you arrive, your sister takes one look at you and says “You’ve had a rough day! Coffee or wine?”
How does she know? How do we pick out that the bride is tense, the bride’s mother is proud, the maid of honour is excited, and the groom’s mother is disaffected?
In humans, we send body language signals without even thinking about them, and we read them accurately through long experience and a certain amount of innate knowledge. Although there are some cultural differences in how body language is spoken around the world, for the most part, we have a base language that we all share. Tense people tend to be rigid in their movements, nervous people tend to move quickly and with jerky movements, and relaxed people tend to move fluidly and gracefully.
How often do you watch your dog and read him just as well? Dogs have a rich body language that they use to great effect. We can eavesdrop on what a dog is telling you by knowing a little bit about how dogs behave when they are relaxed, happy, nervous, frustrated or angry.
Imagine, for a moment, that instead of walking into a bridal shower, you were walking into your living room at the end of the weekend. By considering a dog’s posture, path of travel, gait, eye shape, and tongue, you could quickly assess what that dog was experiencing just as well as you read a friend’s body language.
Standing Still

Standing still may only last for a split second, so you have to watch carefully to see what is happening. When a dog is standing still, he bears his weight in one of three ways:
• Feet four-square and balanced. This dog is calm and confident. (See the Doberman Pinscher in Photo 1. The Collie in Photo 1 is demonstrating the curved approach as discussed
on page 96.)
• Balanced on his hindquarters. This dog is ready to spring forward, and is confident and willing to interact. (Rottweiler in Photo 2)
• Balanced in such a way that he can bolt away from you (or what he is looking at). This dog is fearful and likely to flee. (Small dog in Photo 2)

Dogs may stand in a variety of off- balanced ways that show you which way they would like to dart away. Darting away indicates fear, so if your dog is standing off balance, try and determine what is frightening him.
Photo 3 shows a dog that is balanced on his forefeet in a meta signal called a play bow, and, although he is confident, he is highly aroused and ready to play, not calm.

When you look at a dog, it is important to consider his emotional state. Human body language tells us if someone is afraid, confident, or relaxed, and we react appropriately. In the same way, we can help our canine friends by reading their bodies carefully. It is unfair to ask a fearful dog to approach things that frighten him, and likewise it is foolish to approach a dog who is broadcasting aggression unless you know more about his intent.
Wither Do You Wander?
The path of approach tells us a lot about someone’s intent. If you are approaching the customer service desk to return a damaged item, you will most likely walk assertively and directly to the person at the counter. If you approach a friend this way, he or she will likely be intimidated and fearful. The same is true of the dogs you meet. Dogs traveling in straight lines (Photo 4) are more likely to be aggressive, while curved lines of travel (see Collie in Photo 1) indicate a friendly encounter.

If a dog approaches you in a direct line, looking aggressive, turn away, keeping one eye on her. You will often see this sort of rude behaviour from adolescent dogs who are trying out assertive behaviour, albeit in the wrong context. Standing still, looking down at the ground, and yawning may diffuse the situation.
A dog that is moving on a curve does not likely intend harm, although with a large dog, she might knock someone over. If you see a dog doing this while playing, it is a good idea to bend your knees in case she slams into you by accident.

Photo 6 shows a Dalmatian in danger. You can clearly see that the dog is balanced in such a way that he can flee. The Border Collie on his back legs is bearing his weight on his hind quarters and is willing to bolt forward and hurt the Dalmatian. The third dog, a Springer Spaniel, is standing squarely on all four feet, still and confident, preventing the Dalmatian from escaping.
The Rocking Horse Run
When dogs are playing, they run in a very particular way. They move vertically almost as much as they move horizontally, rocking back and forth like a child’s rocking horse. Running in this way is inefficient, and reflects that play is all about fun and games, not about running your friends down and tackling them. (Photo 5)

A dog running towards you in this manner is being playful, but it may not be safe—this playful behaviour can be very rough and you can easily be knocked over.The opposite of rocking horse running is flat, efficient movement. (Photo 4) When a dog moves in this way, he is in a hurry and going as quickly as he can. We often see dogs doing this sort of movement during an aggressive incident.
The Eyes Have It
It is said that you can read the soul through the eyes. There is nothing as special as looking at the eyes of someone close to you—you can achieve an instant connection. You can also read a lot about a dog’s state of mind in the shape and look of his eyes.

Almond-shaped, relaxed eyes are a reflection of a calm demeanour (Collie in Photo 7). Rounded eyes can indicate arousal and surprise (Chihuahua in Photo 11). If you can see the sclera or whites of a dog’s eyes, beware; the dog is tense and upset and may bite you. Behaviour specialists call this “whale eye” (Photos 8 and 9).


The Rottweiler cross in Photo 10 has a very threatening and dangerous expression.

Hard eyes and loose lips are the sort of ambiguity seen in dogs who have been punished for growling in warning. This dog is resource guarding the toy he has.
The Tell-tale Tongue Tongues have a lot to say, and they are one of the ways that dogs communicate very differently than humans do. When a dog’s tongue and lips are loose and floppy, don’t worry about that growl—everything is meant in play (Photo 12).

When a dog is actually going to bite, he pulls his lips and tongue back and out of the way so that his teeth can do their work (Photo 13).

A Tail to Tell
As with tongues, tail talk is different than human body language communication. Dogs use their tails the way that people use smiles. The idea that a wagging tail indicates happiness is similar to thinking that every smile means only one thing. A low, fast-wagging tail is like a nervous laugh.

A high tail wagging slowly is the confident smile of someone who is going to make you do something you don’t want to do. (Miniature Dachshund in Photo 14) And the middle-level, fast, wide wag where the tail hits or almost hits the body is comparable to the excited grin of a child waiting at the airport for Grandma to come out of the luggage area. (Golden Retriever in Photo 15)

When looking at tails, look at the base of the tail where it attaches to the body; a dog with a very short tail has as much to say as a dog with a very long tail, and the base of the tail is more telling than the tip. A tail drawn as low as possible in a long-tailed dog will cover the genitals. A tail this tightly tucked indicates extreme fear. The short-tailed dogs are trying hard, and you can only see that if you look at the base of the tail. A high tail may curve upwards and over the back and this can be confusing in a dog who has a tail that naturally curls over his back, so again, it is important to look at the base instead of the tip to learn the dog’s mood and intent.
Do You Hear What I Hear?
Dogs can move their ears independently and almost 180 degrees from the front to the back. In general, consider that the more forward your dog’s ears are, the more confident he is about a given situation. The further back and pinned against his head and neck your dog’s ears are, the more fearful he is. (Photo 16)

However, ears serve a dual purpose and can be a bit difficult to read; just when your dog is using his ears to communicate something, he hears something that causes him to pop them out of an easily readable position. Upright, forward ears are attending to what is directly in front of him. (German Shepherd in Photo 17)

Then the phone rings and one of his confident, forward ears flicks back to listen. Ears pulled back tight against the neck tell us that the dog is nervous and concerned (Photos 16 and 18) but then the neighbour’s dog barks and the dog flicks one ear forward to listen to that!

Pay attention to the general drift of the dog’s ear and as with the tail, the base is more important than the tip.
When you open the door to reading a dog’s body language, you will learn a lot about what they intend, how they feel about their surroundings, and how they interpret your actions. Dogs don’t lie with their body language, so they are always telling us exactly what they mean by how they stand, move, look, and act. As humans, we are more aware of our verbal communication than our visual communication. Dogs function in a world that depends primarily upon visual communication, so they often read our body language better than we read theirs, but with a little practice we can hone our skills. The payoff to learning to read what your dog is saying is better responsiveness to the dog’s needs. When you respond to your dog’s needs, you set up a situation where your dog can gain confidence and your relationship with your dog will improve.
What should I do when a dog chases me?
I hate it when a dog chases me. I never know what to do. This week a Doberman came racing across his yard towards me. I was sooo terrified when I felt the dogs nose on my bum that I moved out into the road and screamed. I know that wasn’t the right thing to do. Please tell me how to handle this situation. The owner called to me that the dog wouldn’t hurt me! Yeah right! - Michael
Dear Michael,
I feel your pain! Just the other day I was running on my favorite bike path and in 2 separate occurrences, dogs slipped out of their collars and ran over to me. I run with my dog and in both of these instances the other dog was trying to show dominance over mine. One of the owners actually told me to “shut up” when I suggested that they put their dog on a collar that fits. Oh well…..
Anyway, I suggest the following:
If I know the dog and/or its owner and he is just being friendly then I will go to the dog’s home, ring the bell, and tell them that their dog is off of its leash.
If I don’t know the dog, or it is behaving in an aggressive manner, then I will stand up very tall, point in the other direction (usually in the direction of the owner or where the dog came from), and say “GO!....GO HOME!” in a very stern voice. You might have to do this a couple of times. Never look the dog in the eyes because they will take this as a sign of aggression from you and it might start a conflict.
In the case of the Doberman, they have a tendency to be more aggressive than other dogs. If the owner continually fails to keep it contained, I would suggest you consult with a veterinarian about the use of pepper spray. Family and/or friends that have a pet can recommend one to you if you don’t have one yourself.
As a last resort, I would put in a formal complaint at your local police station. There are leash laws for a reason.Good Luck!
Helen
Running Fit Headquarters
I can commiserate with you as I too have had large dogs come after me (and 1 even caught me once)! One "survival" trick that I learned which worked most of the time when I felt threatened was to put my arm back and pretend to throw something at him/her.
Please note though that I would NEVER be cruel to an animal and am completely against any cruelty to animals.
I know some dogs to get upset by anyone running and/or biking, but when I stop and walk and speak nicely to the dog, he/she is pacified.
If/when possible, change your route and avoid the beast completely!
My Dog Stare at Me
It’s not hard to imagine why a loyal dog might stare devotedly at his master. It’s the stuff of Old Yeller, White Fang and Lassie –– starers, all. But some dogs take staring to extremes, following their owners around with baleful eyes as if expecting links of sausage to fly from their human’s fingertips.
Let’s face it: Dogs love their owners, but when they stare expectantly, it’s not usually because they’re trapped in a reverie of devotion. Rather, it’s because they’re thinking they might get something. And usually, that “something” involves a tasty snack.
But dogs can—and do—stare at their owners for plenty of non-food issues, too. Indeed, anything a dog might want that a human can provide could be the source of the staring behavior, from a fun game of fetch to a ride in the car or a long run.
Then there’s the possibility that a dog is simply seeking attention in any form, or perhaps she’s merely waiting for praise or direction. Some dogs may just be trying to read an emotion in our human facial expressions.
In any case, staring is typically considered to be a good thing. In fact, most trainers encourage dogs to stare at their owners while awaiting their cues. And if you’ve never done it, gazing deeply into a dog’s eyes can be a highly rewarding pastime.
Before you try it, be aware that staring directly into a dog’s eyes can be considered a direct challenge. That’s why mutual staring is an activity that’s only to be encouraged within the context of a healthy dog-human relationship unsullied by any taint of aggression or behavioral abnormalities.
My Dog Hate Me
How do you say good-bye to people with whom you’ve spent more time for the last three years than any of your friends and family members (except for a small furry one)? People you’ve come to respect and care about deeply?
You don’t.
It’s true that I won’t be blogging about pets any more. But I haven’t been fully present since I announced that I would be working on a new project last January. And being half here is neither what I want nor what you, gentle readers, deserve. The topics we’ve been having a conversation about, from rescue and training to BSL and tainted food, are too important to be given short shrift.
That said, this blog has most of all been about sharing experiences with people who understand that our pets are family members and that loving animals is a key part of what makes us human, in the fullest sense of that term. And I will always be part of that community, which has given me more than I’d ever imagined was possible — support, advice, and help in real life. Not to mention permission to discuss dog poop.
I was going to say a long good-bye, share some of my favorite posts, recognize individuals who have been particularly supportive, but I found it impossible to choose. And pulling the bandage off quickly is best. Besides, my last post, about Frankie, said it all. And it’s the image I want to leave you with: My muse, the always amusing Frankie, forever in his prime.
I hope you’ll come over to my new blog, Freud’s Butcher, a journey into the life of my mother’s family in Vienna (you knew there had to be a reason I was suddenly throwing around German phrases, didn’t you?). It would be great to see old friends. But even if you don’t, you’ll still be with me. You don’t cut part of your heart out when you move homes.
Unless, of course, you’re relocating to Transylvania. Then all bets are off.
off-leash dog charges me
People have asked me what I do when an off-leash dog charges my dog and I while we’re running. Runners have to be especially aware of dogs, since a lot of dogs chase anything that moves.
I run with a large variety of dogs every day through my dog running business. These dogs have various energy levels and very different reactions towards approaching dogs.
Still, my reaction to approaching off-leash dogs is always the same.
The following is my own “expert” advice as someone who runs with dogs every day and has to deal with approaching off-leash dogs fairly often.
Here is what I do when I see an off-leash dog approaching:
First of all, I do all I can to prevent confrontations. I keep the dog I am running under control at all times, in a formal heel position at my left side.
I am aware of my surroundings at all times, always subconsciously scanning yards for approaching dogs or people. I am always listening for people or dogs coming up behind us. I don’t run with headphones.
If I see a dog that might approach us, I slow to a walk or do a quick but relaxed “U-turn” or move to the other side of the street. If the other dog slowly follows us with a relaxed posture or barks but seems insecure, I just ignore the dog and slowly move away. I return to a run once we are about 10 yards away.
If the dog is already charging or if he charges even as we move away, that’s when I turn to face the dog, making sure to use my body to block my own dog. I look the approaching dog right in the eyes with a very dominant, upright posture. I point at him, take a step towards him and firmly say, “NO!” All of this has to happen within about two seconds, but it’s always enough to surprise the dog for a moment and instantly break the tension or excitement. It’s a mind game.
I don’t feel comfortable telling everyone to confront an approaching dog in this way. Most people do not have control of their own dogs, let alone the ability to read the energy of an approaching dog. But I also know many of the people who read this blog are a lot like me and are totally capable of confronting a dog.
What about tossing a handful of treats at the approaching dog?
You may be thinking it would be better to use a positive reinforcement technique. You may want to toss a handful of treats at the approaching dog to distract him. If that works for you, great. It doesn’t work for me.
First of all, I don’t bother to carry treats while I run. Second, if I were to fumble through my pocket to grab a handful of treats, I would lose control of the dog I am walking and the approaching dog would get to us before I had a chance to toss the treats. And finally, most approaching dogs are excited about seeing another dog. They don’t give a damn about pieces of jerky.
What about spraying the approaching dog with pepper spray?
I’m not opposed to running with pepper spray or using it on an approaching dog. I just choose not to bother. I’ve never been in any real danger. I have never been attacked by a dog while running.
If carrying pepper spray would make you feel more comfortable, do it. And don’t be afraid to use it, either. A nice spray to the face will teach the dog a thing or two about charging people! And if the owner gets upset, well, too bad. Maybe she shouldn’t have let her dog act like a maniac.
From my experience, though, simply moving away and avoiding confrontations is the best approach. Show that you are not a threat and that you are not interested. If the dog still doesn’t get the memo, then it usually works to turn and address him.
What about those truly annoying owners?
“Don’t worry! He’s friendly!”
Well, f#@k you. I’m trying to run here. Your lab might be “friendly,” but his tail is straight up and he’s staring right at my dog!
Of course, I don’t actually say that.
Sometimes both dogs truly are friendly and the easiest thing to do is just sigh, let them acknowledge each other, do the sniffing dance for a minute and move on.
What if my dog is aggressive?
Sometimes I am running a dog that is truly reactive to other dogs. Those of you who own leash-reactive dogs know very well how frustrating it is when other people allow their “friendly” dogs to charge your not-so friendly dog.
If the dog I am walking is even the slightest bit reactive to other dogs and some idiot allows his dog to charge us, I always make sure to yell out, “My dog is aggressive!”
Usually that takes the smile off the other owner’s face as he comes running over to collect his dog.
Sometimes your dog might go into a complete tizzy, spinning and snarling. It happens. The approaching dog may have caused the reaction, but your dog is now the one truly out of control. When this happens, the best thing to do is just get control of your own dog and completely ignore the other dog. Then move away as quickly and calmly as you can.
What if there is a dog fight?
What if the dog seriously begins to attack your dog? Fortunately I have never had this happen. If this did happen to me, I know I would make sure not to get my hands in the middle of it. But I would probably try to use my body to block the two dogs from each other. I would also most likely kick the attacking dog in the face, hard.
But one thing to remember is that most of the time dog confrontations sound a lot worse than they really are. It’s best not to freak out and add more fuel to the fire. It’s also best to keep the leash as loose as possible in order to decrease the tension. Often, it’s actually the owner who causes the dog fight by tightening the leash at the wrong time.
Even if there is a lot of snarling or lunging or yelping, chances are there won’t be actual bites. Even if there is a bite, don’t panic. If your dog is up to date on vaccinations, there is not much to worry about.
You may want to make note of where the off-leash dog lives or at least where you are and contact animal control. I keep the local police departments in my phone for that reason. If the dog appears to be lost or ownerless, you may also want to report it for the safety of others.
Details about how to keep your dog under control in “heel position”
No matter what dog I am running with, I keep the dog under control, at my left side in a formal heel position at all times. I do this even if the dog’s owner normally allows him to run ahead, and even if he has basically no leash manners.
To keep any dog at my left side on a loose leash, I hold the leash close to his collar in my left hand, and I hold the slack in my right hand. The “loop” part of the leash is held with my right hand. I maintain just enough slack on my left side so the leash is not tight.
Some dogs have very good leash manners. Some wear head collars that prevent them from pulling. For the dogs that pull, all I do is keep their collars high on their necks, right under their chins and behind their ears. It doesn’t really matter if they are wearing a flat collar, a martingale, a choke or a prong. It doesn’t matter if the dog has had no basic obedience training. If you keep the collar high on the neck you should be able to keep the dog under control. You will probably have to stop every few minutes to adjust the collar, though.
Whenever the dog sneaks ahead, I give a slight correction by pulling up. I pull up or to the side, not back. If you pull back, not only does it move the collar to the stronger, thicker part of the dog’s neck, but it causes the dog to resist the tension and pull harder.
Always stay relaxed and prevent tension in the leash. The leash should be so free of tension that you could literally hold the leash with two fingers in each hand and the dog wouldn’t break away. Ideally, you could drop the leash and the dog wouldn’t notice or go anywhere.
What tips do you have for dealing with an approaching off-leash dog?
Working with your own dog to achieve a reliable sit-stay no matter what can also go a long way!
I run with a large variety of dogs every day through my dog running business. These dogs have various energy levels and very different reactions towards approaching dogs.
Still, my reaction to approaching off-leash dogs is always the same.
The following is my own “expert” advice as someone who runs with dogs every day and has to deal with approaching off-leash dogs fairly often.
Here is what I do when I see an off-leash dog approaching:
First of all, I do all I can to prevent confrontations. I keep the dog I am running under control at all times, in a formal heel position at my left side.
I am aware of my surroundings at all times, always subconsciously scanning yards for approaching dogs or people. I am always listening for people or dogs coming up behind us. I don’t run with headphones.
If I see a dog that might approach us, I slow to a walk or do a quick but relaxed “U-turn” or move to the other side of the street. If the other dog slowly follows us with a relaxed posture or barks but seems insecure, I just ignore the dog and slowly move away. I return to a run once we are about 10 yards away.
If the dog is already charging or if he charges even as we move away, that’s when I turn to face the dog, making sure to use my body to block my own dog. I look the approaching dog right in the eyes with a very dominant, upright posture. I point at him, take a step towards him and firmly say, “NO!” All of this has to happen within about two seconds, but it’s always enough to surprise the dog for a moment and instantly break the tension or excitement. It’s a mind game.
I don’t feel comfortable telling everyone to confront an approaching dog in this way. Most people do not have control of their own dogs, let alone the ability to read the energy of an approaching dog. But I also know many of the people who read this blog are a lot like me and are totally capable of confronting a dog.
What about tossing a handful of treats at the approaching dog?
You may be thinking it would be better to use a positive reinforcement technique. You may want to toss a handful of treats at the approaching dog to distract him. If that works for you, great. It doesn’t work for me.
First of all, I don’t bother to carry treats while I run. Second, if I were to fumble through my pocket to grab a handful of treats, I would lose control of the dog I am walking and the approaching dog would get to us before I had a chance to toss the treats. And finally, most approaching dogs are excited about seeing another dog. They don’t give a damn about pieces of jerky.
What about spraying the approaching dog with pepper spray?
I’m not opposed to running with pepper spray or using it on an approaching dog. I just choose not to bother. I’ve never been in any real danger. I have never been attacked by a dog while running.
If carrying pepper spray would make you feel more comfortable, do it. And don’t be afraid to use it, either. A nice spray to the face will teach the dog a thing or two about charging people! And if the owner gets upset, well, too bad. Maybe she shouldn’t have let her dog act like a maniac.
From my experience, though, simply moving away and avoiding confrontations is the best approach. Show that you are not a threat and that you are not interested. If the dog still doesn’t get the memo, then it usually works to turn and address him.
What about those truly annoying owners?
“Don’t worry! He’s friendly!”
Well, f#@k you. I’m trying to run here. Your lab might be “friendly,” but his tail is straight up and he’s staring right at my dog!
Of course, I don’t actually say that.
Sometimes both dogs truly are friendly and the easiest thing to do is just sigh, let them acknowledge each other, do the sniffing dance for a minute and move on.
What if my dog is aggressive?
Sometimes I am running a dog that is truly reactive to other dogs. Those of you who own leash-reactive dogs know very well how frustrating it is when other people allow their “friendly” dogs to charge your not-so friendly dog.
If the dog I am walking is even the slightest bit reactive to other dogs and some idiot allows his dog to charge us, I always make sure to yell out, “My dog is aggressive!”
Usually that takes the smile off the other owner’s face as he comes running over to collect his dog.
Sometimes your dog might go into a complete tizzy, spinning and snarling. It happens. The approaching dog may have caused the reaction, but your dog is now the one truly out of control. When this happens, the best thing to do is just get control of your own dog and completely ignore the other dog. Then move away as quickly and calmly as you can.
What if there is a dog fight?
What if the dog seriously begins to attack your dog? Fortunately I have never had this happen. If this did happen to me, I know I would make sure not to get my hands in the middle of it. But I would probably try to use my body to block the two dogs from each other. I would also most likely kick the attacking dog in the face, hard.
But one thing to remember is that most of the time dog confrontations sound a lot worse than they really are. It’s best not to freak out and add more fuel to the fire. It’s also best to keep the leash as loose as possible in order to decrease the tension. Often, it’s actually the owner who causes the dog fight by tightening the leash at the wrong time.
Even if there is a lot of snarling or lunging or yelping, chances are there won’t be actual bites. Even if there is a bite, don’t panic. If your dog is up to date on vaccinations, there is not much to worry about.
You may want to make note of where the off-leash dog lives or at least where you are and contact animal control. I keep the local police departments in my phone for that reason. If the dog appears to be lost or ownerless, you may also want to report it for the safety of others.
Details about how to keep your dog under control in “heel position”
No matter what dog I am running with, I keep the dog under control, at my left side in a formal heel position at all times. I do this even if the dog’s owner normally allows him to run ahead, and even if he has basically no leash manners.
To keep any dog at my left side on a loose leash, I hold the leash close to his collar in my left hand, and I hold the slack in my right hand. The “loop” part of the leash is held with my right hand. I maintain just enough slack on my left side so the leash is not tight.
Some dogs have very good leash manners. Some wear head collars that prevent them from pulling. For the dogs that pull, all I do is keep their collars high on their necks, right under their chins and behind their ears. It doesn’t really matter if they are wearing a flat collar, a martingale, a choke or a prong. It doesn’t matter if the dog has had no basic obedience training. If you keep the collar high on the neck you should be able to keep the dog under control. You will probably have to stop every few minutes to adjust the collar, though.
Whenever the dog sneaks ahead, I give a slight correction by pulling up. I pull up or to the side, not back. If you pull back, not only does it move the collar to the stronger, thicker part of the dog’s neck, but it causes the dog to resist the tension and pull harder.
Always stay relaxed and prevent tension in the leash. The leash should be so free of tension that you could literally hold the leash with two fingers in each hand and the dog wouldn’t break away. Ideally, you could drop the leash and the dog wouldn’t notice or go anywhere.
What tips do you have for dealing with an approaching off-leash dog?
Working with your own dog to achieve a reliable sit-stay no matter what can also go a long way!
Some Things that Bug Dogs
There isn't much out there that bugs a dog. Butthere are times when things can get under theskin of even the "coolest" dogs. Here are some oftheir top pet peeves in dogs ... from the mouthsof dogs themselves.
1. Leaving the toilet bowl lid down. Humansjust don't understand that the water is cold,fresh and always tastes better there. For thelittle dogs that have never been able to "reach"this delightful experience – you don't know what you are missing.
2. Not sharing in the fruits of your labor. I don't mean "fruit"
actually. I mean that beautiful, 1 ½ -inch steak you cooked to sucharomatic perfection. We're all part of the pack, right? Why am I not getting my share?
3. Not understanding my behavior. Okay, so I like to greet strangers by leaping on them. I like to chase my tail bythat lead crystal vase you call an heirloom. I'm not misbehaving; I'm a dog for crying out loud. It's all good, and likeshadow chasing, helps build eye-to-paw coordination.
4. Bathing. What is with the daily bath "thing" that humans do? And why do they inflict that obscenity upon me onoccasion? Just when I think I am smelling fine, they bathe me. I really don't understand. I'm only going to go out androll in "something" again. They just don't appreciate the effort it takes to get that perfect doggie odor.
5. Rushing me to potty. Don't they know that there is a true art to finding the right spot? Just because they did not get up in time, they are running late, they want me to "Hurry up and potty." Have a little respect. This is my chance to shine.
6. Being away. I love attention and being around people, noise and excitement. When you are away, at work, or running errands ... this is time away from me. Don't you know? It is ALL about me. Your life should revolve around me AND I can make you regret leaving me behind....
7. Nail trims. They are my nails – I spend lots of time growing them and here they come again touching my feet. I hate that!
8. Not letting me chase the squirrel. They torment me by placing a "glass wall" between me and lots of critters outside. How annoying. All I want to do is "play" with them. The other thing they do is restrain me with this thing called the leash. I want to run forward and I am pulled back. If they can't keep up, they should just let me go. What is a dog to do?
9. Catnip. Now this is one peeve that really annoys me. I see the cat roll and play and even cry out in joy in response to catnip. I smell it, eat it, lick it and ... nothing happens. Nothing. I don't get it.
10. Not letting me at the mailman. This is so unfair. I wait all day for the mailman and finally he comes. The anticipation is great. Then, they hold me back. Tell me to be quiet. Very annoying. They don't appreciate the fact that the mailman comes everyday and I single handedly scare him away. My bravery and courage are unappreciated.
11. When my owner is playing with the other dog or cat. This really hurts my feelings. Seeing MY owner play with someone else. It is all about me... They really don't understand.
12. Won't let me at the litter box. I think of it as an opportunity for a tootsie roll snack. My owners get all grossed out, run around and then actually deny me access to what I desire the most. I am actually helping to clean up. What's the problem?
13. Expecting me to be at their beck and call. For a treat – I have to do some little humiliating trick and pretend I like it. What about independence, freedom and respect?
14. Sharing the bed. I don't understand why I have to sleep on the floor. Why can't I have the bed and they sleep on the floor? I work hard all day and night. I protect my owners, guard the house and scare away invaders of my castle such as the mailman, cats, squirrels, and a multitude of other creatures. I should be pampered.
15. Rolling up the windows. I feel such joy from the little words, "wanna go bye bye." This gives me thoughts of having the window down with cool wind blowing through my hair, looking just dynamite as other dogs stare from the curbs in envy and awe. And just when I am really getting into it – head out, ear flapping, they roll up the window. Then I am forced to stare at other dogs going by with their heads out the window. Mega bummer.
...and one more for good measure:
16. Cats. What really makes me angry is the agility and grace of cats. They have the gifted ability to jump up on things and escape under things with such ease. I really wish I could do that. When I try to do that, I inevitably break or knock something over.
What Do Dog Paws Really Smell Like
A few weeks back, reader K.S. in Atlanta offered her personal view that dogs’ paws smell like Fritos which sparked an onslaught of email, and other comments directed to my Facebook page. In all, I received around 100 comments, and still the controversy rages on. K.S. said she thinks dog paws smell like Fritos, and wondered why? Some readers were shocked that veterinary dermatologist Dr. Karen Campbell, the esteemed head of specialty medicine at the University of Illinois Collage of Veterinary medicine said she never noticed the snack food odor, but did explain that K.S. was likely smelling sweat off the dogs’ paws or maybe the oil gland secretions from their paws – or a combination of both.
Perhaps Campbell never noticed, but you sure have. Here are a few of your comments:
“I am rolling on the floor. I have been saying this for years, referring to my Springer (Spaniel) and now with our Maltipoo- I call them ‘Frito feet.’ I have a pretty good sensory sense so I know we're not all wacky. I have a PhD in Food Science plus 26 years in the food industry. I don't know what to do with this information, but I did get a chuckle and found it affirming. Thanks for having the courage to publish this! (I wonder how many of us smell our dog's paws?). L.K., Saint Paul, MN
“Your article struck my funny bone. We have nicknamed our Boxer named Geep ‘Frito Feet.’ It was enjoyable to know that other pet owners share the same ‘stinky dilemma.’ I wonder what my feet would smell like if I walked around with no socks, never washing them and walking on all sorts of terrain. I think Fritos would not come to mind. Thanks for the chuckle.” C.G., Smithfield, Va.
“I was surprised to hear anyone else say it, but I always joked that my lovely dog’s feet smelled like Fritos! What's with Dr. Campbell? Horse sense always told me the odor is intrinsic to dog feets (I love calling them that). I enjoy your column a lot.” L.B., Las Vegas, NV
“I had a dachshund mix that lived to be 16, and a Doxie purebred that lived to be over 18, and both of the dogs definitely had Frito paws. My last one passed away a little over two years ago and because of circumstances in my life I haven't been able to replace him yet. To this day the smell of Fritos still almost makes me cry!” J.H.B., Williamsburg, Virginia
“Or maybe Frito's (has) engineered their chips to smell like dog paws. Hmmm?” D. H., Greensboro, NC (via Facebook)
“Yes, they DO smell like Fritos! Perhaps we can turn it into a diet thing. When you get hungry and want to snack, just smell your dog's feet! You get some of the enjoyment of the Fritos without those nasty calories!” D. P., via Facebook
“I always thought they (dogs’ paws) smelled like popcorn.” K. N., Portland, ME (via Facebook)
“I've always thought (dogs’ paws smell like) tortilla chips.” D. G. S., via Facebook
“LIsa (one dog) smells like Italian pillow cookies, the ones with the sesame seeds. Maggie's (another dog) feet smell like popcorn, but the rest of her smells like a nice expensive cheese. My gals are totally delicious.” M. B., New York, NY
“This is a hysterical subject. I’m cracking up. I always thought dogs’ paws smell like caramel corn!! Their mouths smell like parmesan cheese,” J. G., Plainfield, IL. (via Facebook)
“I thought I was the only one who smelled their dogs’ feet. It sounds like we all like it and do it often. Well, I thought at first when Fritos was mentioned it brought that smell up from memory, but I just went and smelled both of my dogs feet and I think more like a musky grass. (I wonder if) anyone likes the smell of horse hooves? I also love to smell my dog’s muzzles, my last Doberman had an especially wonderful scent.” J. K. Sarasota, FL (via Facebook)
“Just wanted you to know that there is one more person who has thought for years that dogs' feet smell like Fritos. Glad to see there are at least two more of us. “ J.S. Grove, OK
“Okey dokey... despite how much I absolutely adore my dog and that she sleeps on my bed, sometimes right up by my pillow, I have to say that I have never smelled her feet. And I'm not planning to.” C.H.V., Chicago, IL (via Facebook)
“Sniffing dog’s paws – and writing about it in the paper – you’re crazy. Get a life!”
The ways to make dog love you
Dogs are very loyal and intelligent animals. You can create lasting friendships with them. Read on for tips on how to properly love a dog and make one loyal to you.
Steps
1 Be consistent. There's nothing more frustrating for a dog than an owner that can't make up his/her mind. If you hear him/her howling in the night, go to him/her and comfort him/her. Then they will bond with you.
2 Use single word commands like 'sit' and 'stay' and stick to them. Don't use 'stay' one day and 'wait' the next. If you teach a dog to lie down by saying 'down', don't teach him to get off of the couch by saying 'down'. He'll think you want him to lie down; use 'off' instead.
3 Be pleased with your dog. When he behaves favorably, praise him and reward him.
4 Use a friendly tone. When he does something undesired, use a stern, friendly tone.
5 Don't ever hit your dog. Displays of aggression only teach the dog to be defensive and therefore aggressive, when abused.
6 Socialize your dog with people and other dogs. He will learn to be friendly to both if he is familiar with them.
7 Make sure your dog gets all the play, walks and exercise he needs. Dogs with pent up energy tend to become destructive and depressed.
8 Make sure your dog understands the pecking order of his "pack". If you have children, he should be below them on a pack level. The owner or primary caretaker of the dog should be the "alpha" the dog should respect this leader. If the alpha is not present, the dog may try to take charge. Dogs need to be part of a pack to be happy.
9 Give your dog outlets for stress, boredom, or frustration. If he chews, give him or her chew toys or balls. But do not EVER give a dog a raw bone as the dog can and will chew off small shards and can choke on those pieces. If he digs, make him a "dig box" (a wooden frame in the ground, filled with soft dirt, this saves your yard!).
Smell Dogs Hate
Generally, dogs love going for a walk with their master, eating meat and belly rubs, running her and there and chasing other small animals. Everybody knows that the dogs are very sensitive and have the power to smell and find out the wrong person, but do anybody know that also have some exception in smelling. Yes! Dogs hate some smell.
Actually, the dogs hate many smells in that smell of anything citrus hits the top place in the list.
Dogs’ antipathy for citrus fruits like oranges, grapefruit lemons, or food which has this citrus is seen in most of the breeds. Anyway the dog’s hate for citrus smell is useful because it can be used to deter from chewing certain items which you want to keep away from your pet or items which you like to keep it safe.
To find whether your dog hate this smell, you can take any citrus fruit and peel the skin with your hands so that the hands get covered with sticky juice of the fruit and bring your juicy fingers near to your dog’s nose. If the dog runs away with a troubling face, then your dog belongs to the citrus-hating dog breed. If your dog comes near and start licking your fingers, then you don’t have a dog that hates this smell.
If your dog likes citrus smell, it not means that your dog likes all the smell, it has its own taste and it may hate some other smell. Some of the other common odors that are hated by dogs include coffee grounds, eucalyptus oil, cayenne pepper, peppermint oil, lavender oil, pipe tobacco, lemon grass oil,citronella oil, and mustard oil. This particular quality of sense is very useful for all pet masters as they can use that particular smell to protect their things or foods or whatever.
Plants and Flowers That Dogs Dislike
Placing certain plants near the edges of your garden will deter your dogs.
If you have dogs, you know how difficult it is to keep them out of your garden beds. You can plant certain plants, however, to deter them. Generally, dogs do not like any plants with a strong smell, or plants with thorns. Plant these plants around the edges of your garden, and they work almost as well as a fence. Does this Spark an idea?
Prickly Pear
The prickly pear is a type of blooming cactus characterized by large, circular pads. These pads are covered in long thorns, and the plant produces the prickly pear fruit. This cactus is part of the Opuntia family, found throughout the United States. It is found in United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) hardiness zones 4 through 11, and can grow in elevations over 10,000 feet depending on the variety. The prickly pear cactus can grow up to 7 feet tall and prefers well-drained soil. They also require full sun and generally bloom from late spring through mid-summer.
Pepper Plant
The pepper plant is a part of the Piperaceae family. It creates a black, green, red or white fruit. You can eat this fruit raw or cooked, as in the case of bell and yellow peppers. Or, you can dry this fruit and create peppercorn spices. Pepper plants are a perennial that can grow between 3 and 6 nches tall, and they hardy in USDA zones 3 through 9. They require full sun, and will produce fruit when it's between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Pepper plants generally prefer well-drained soils.
Coleus Canina
This plant is technically a weed, but it works well at keeping both dogs and cats out of gardens. The bluish flowers have a strong smell that only animals can pick up on. Plant around the edges of your garden, and generally animals won't go anywhere near the garden. This plant is often found in natural animal repellents. Coleus canina prefers full sun and well-drained soil. It creates oblong-shaped, lined, green leaves, and it is a part of the Lamiaceae family. This plant reaches about 2 feet tall.
Huckleberry
Evergreen huckleberry is a type of flowering shrub that creates pinkish blossoms. It also creates blue to purple berries, and the fruit is edible. The size of this bush is what usually keeps dogs out of your garden bed; they get up to 12 feet tall and 10 feet wide. They grow in USDA zones 7 through 9, and they flower from March through May. Evergreen huckleberry prefers full sun to shade, and well-drained, moist soil
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Can dogs taste?
Dogs are generally branded as voracious eaters. Dogs would eat anything. Even well fed ones would still raid trash cans and feast on rotten and spoiled food. To the consternation of dog owners that provide the pet with nutrient rich premium quality foods, dogs would not forgo the chance to eat their own or other animal’s poop. Dogs also have the habit of gnawing and eating sneakers, carpets, furniture and other non-edible objects. We know that dogs have heightened scenting, hearing and seeing abilities. With the indiscriminate eating habits, it seems that the taste buds of dogs are not functioning. Do dogs have the ability to taste?
Dog’s sense of taste is not as well developed as its other senses. However, dogs can taste. A dog uses its sense of taste to assess the delectability of the offered food. Dogs are noted for their huge appetites. At the sight and smell of food, a dog would be highly agitated. The dog would salivate, bark and jump excitedly in anticipation of the dog dish filled with kibble. This behavior would be enhanced if the bowl is filled with home cooked doggie food. And yet, a dog may sniff the food, take a first bite and then turn away. Dogs will also leave foods that they don’t like to eat in their bowls. This suggests that dogs can indeed taste.
A dog’s basic taste is pretty similar to humans. Our furry friends can taste sour, sweet, bitter and salty. The taste varies from dog to dog but generally, dogs would prefer sweet over bitter and sour. A dog that has developed a taste for fruits would eat banana but would commonly turn away from lemons and other citrus fruits. Generally, dogs hate the bitter taste. Dogs may not be able to complain about the bitter or sour taste of a home cooked meal but given the huge appetite of dogs, it would be obvious that the food is not to the dog’s liking if the doggie bowl was ignored. Pet owners use bitter substances on furniture and on other objects to stop the chewing habit of the pet. Dogs are noted to have more receptors for savory taste. This explains the dog’s preference for meats.
At the tip of the tongue are sensitive water receptors. When dogs eat sweet and salty foods, these receptors became more responsive. More liquids are necessary to process these particular foods so that when dogs are given sweets, hams or any other salty and sweet human foods they would require more water. Because of these sensitive water receptors, dogs are noted to be rather choosy with the water they drink.
Dogs have one thousand seven hundred six gustative receptors. These taste buds are mostly located on the upper surface of the tongue, at the mucosa of the palate and at the epiglottis and pharynx. Studies have shown that the less developed sense of taste is influenced to a great extent by the dog’s acute sense of smell. Dogs may sometimes lose their appetite. When the dog turns away from the food it is not because the meal is unpalatable or that the dog food that was provided by the owner day in and day out has become boring. Unlike humans, dogs do not need varied menus. Because a dog’s sense of taste is not very well developed, it would eat the same type of food over and over again. Sick dogs would commonly refuse to eat. A perfectly healthy dog may refuse food if the smell is not attractive to the dog. Dogs would smell first before eating. In the wild, dogs would know what plants are toxic simply by smelling. And yet dog owners would wonder… if the dog’s less developed taste is greatly influenced by the sense of smell, why then do dogs have the propensity to eat poop?
Dog's Skeleton details
About a Dog's Skeleton
Like all other skeletal animals, the dog's skeleton is made to protect vital inner organs, provide a stable base for the body, and allow it to move and perform various functions. The bones of the skeleton also provide essential nutrients and storage of vitamins and minerals for the body. The skeleton of a dog is basically the same as that of a giraffe, a horse, a mouse, and even a human. The differences lie in size, and form more than actual types of bones.
Vertebrate
Dogs, like people, are members of the vertebrate family. This means their bodies are shaped by a skeleton and centered on a spinal column. The spinal column houses the central nervous system and is a primary key to every bodily function.
Number of bones
Dogs have 319 bones on average, with the difference being the possibility of bones being artificially removed with the removal of part of the tail (tail docking). Every dog has the same number of bones regardless of whether it is big or small. A Pomeranian is the same inside as a Great Dane. The differences are in size and length of the bones, not the number of bones.
Skeletal Structure
The canine skeleton is comprised of three main areas: appendicular, axial, and visceral. The appendicular skeleton makes up the bones of the legs and feet, the axial portion of the skeleton is the main axis of support, the head, neck, spine, ribs, and beast bone (sternum). The visceral bones are the small bony parts of such organs as the inner ear.
Bone structure
Bones of all vertebrates are comprised of many layers of tissue. They are not a single solid piece of material like they may appear to be. They are comprised of the periosteum, a membrane that encases the bone; the cortical bone, the firm, thick, material that makes a bone strong; the cancellous bone, the interior part of the bone that is spongy and compartmentalized like a honeycomb. The cencellous portion of the bone actually gives the outer structure more strength. Bones contain marrow in the center medullary cavity that is made up of fat, and in some bones (primarily the appendicular and axial bones) red and white blood cells.
Breed Differences
The differences in bones between breeds are in size and shape. The biggest differences (other than sheer size) are in the bones of the skull.
Skeletal Tendencies for Hereditary Conditions
Some of the man-made size differences in breeds cause inherent difficulties that lead to illness. Many of the larger breeds of dogs have such weight placed on the skeletal capacity that it creates problems such as panosteitis, an inflammation of the long bones located in the marrow cavity. Hip dysplasia is another skeletal problem often occurring in large, heavy breeds, but also in dogs with very long backs
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Why Do Dogs like Bones
I sit watching one of my dogs chewing on a raw beef shank bone and wonder at how blissful the experience seems to be for him. There appears to be no better canine sedative than a bone to gnaw on. However the bone that I gave him had very little meat on it, and those few clinging meat scraps had disappeared quickly. Yet despite the absence of meat he is still chewing on the bone, scraping it or sometimes crushing it when he can get it far enough back into his mouth to work on with his molars. Ultimately he will actually eat most of the bone and that is the scientific puzzle. Why would a dog, or any other carnivore, seem to want such an apparently non-nutritious food source to such a degree that it is willing to spend hours working, crushing and grinding it so that it can be consumed?
Strangely enough we get our first inkling as to what is going on by looking at research on the diet of humans. For example, John D. Speth of the University of Michigan excavated some sites in New Mexico that contained the bones of bison that had been killed around 1450 AD. However there was something strange about these particular deposits. It seems that these ancient hunters left most parts of the female bodies to rot at the butchering site yet dragged home as much of the male carcasses as they could carry. So what was wrong with these female bison?
The clue as to what was happening comes from the season. While most known prehistoric bison kills happened in fall and winter, this New Mexico site contained animals killed in springtime. What makes female animals so unappetizing during the spring turns out to be fat, or rather the lack of it. Pregnant and nursing cows are often severely stressed in the spring because they are carrying a nearly full-grown fetus or nursing a calf, and it is well before there is enough vegetation to use for adequate foraging. As a result they have to live off of their own fat reserves and thus their bodies get fat-depleted. Similar fat depletion can occur when animals are near starvation during cold or dry seasons. At such times an animal's body fat can drop to only a few percent of their total weight which is far less than what appears in even the leanest cuts of beef. It may surprise many people to learn that a diet made up of almost pure protein actually contains too few calories for adequate nutrition and can even lead to protein poisoning. Thus it appears likely that these hunters rejected the meat of the female bison because of its low fat content.
To see how inadequate a high protein diet is in the absence of fat, we can look a historical incident which occurred in the Wyoming during the winter of 1857. A military officer named Randolph Marcy ran out of food and had to march his men all the way to Santa Fe, New Mexico in order to find adequate provisions. His troops survived by eating their pack animals. Unfortunately the poor quality of the meat nearly killed the men. Marcy reported that, "We tried the meat of horse, colt, and mules, all of which were in a starved condition, and of course not very tender, juicy, and nutritious. We consumed the enormous amount of from five to six pounds of this meat per man daily, but continued to grow weak and thin, until, at the expiration of twelve days, we were able to perform but little labor, and were continually craving for fat meat."
This brings us to the importance of bones in the evolution of carnivores. Seasonal changes swinging between warm and cold in the mid-latitudes and wet and dry in the tropics affects the availability of the vegetable matter used as food by the animals that meat eaters depend upon as their prey. The last reservoir of fat in an animal undergoing hard times is in the bones. Bone marrow is particularly rich, with more than half of its composition being fat. In addition, bonded to the calcium making up the bone itself is the so-called bone grease, which, although less digestible and concentrated is still a substantial source of fat. If you are a predator and for some reason your prey is in very poor condition for part of the year, then you will greatly increase the value of the meat that you have if you can get some fat with it. The fat serves as a sort of nutritional multiplier. This means that the ability of carnivores to reach the bone marrow of their prey, and their desire to work at grinding down and consuming the bulk of a bone to access the bone grease could mean the difference between life and death.
A number of carnivorous species, including the hyena and some extinct canines, like the dire wolf, display specialized bone crushing teeth, and powerful jaw muscles to facilitate eating bones. Our domestic dogs have to work harder because they do not have those specialized teeth. On the other hand they do have very strong jaws, and even a small dog can work up a bite strength of around 700 pounds per square inch which can gradually wear down the largest of bones. Most importantly, evolution has left dogs with the desire to work at getting this source of fat. Evolution uses the trick of making necessary behaviors for survival of the individual or species pleasurable (like eating or sex) and so it has made the bone chewing eating behavior dogs such a great satisfaction for them.
One caution-if this article has motivated you to give your dog a bone, make sure that it is a raw bone. Cooking sweats out the bone grease and often melts away the fat in the bone marrow, thus making cooked bones less desirable. Furthermore cooked bones are much more brittle and eating sharp bone splinters can injure your dog. For the most part, the raw bones and the fat bonded to them are safely ground down and consumed by dogs.
THE HUMAN FOOD CAN DOGS EAT?
TOP 21 HUMAN FOOD THAT YOU CAN FEED YOUR DOG!
It has happened to all of us dog owners. You are sitting at the dinner table and your dog is sitting right by your feet. He has a look that says he has not eaten in 1,000 years even though you know for a fact that he ate only minutes ago. He is drooling and your heart breaks to see him craving bits and pieces of your meal. Finally, you cave in and want to share some scrapes with him. Before you do so, however, it is crucial to find you what human food can dogs eat.
To find the answer, we called upon Liz Palika, author of “The Ultimate Pet Food Guide,” and animal nutritionist, Susan Lauten, PhD, of Pet Nutrition Consulting, to explain which fresh, frozen and canned foods people typically eat that are safe for dogs to consume too. Here is the top TEN list of human food that is safe for our canine friends to eat.
MELONS
Watermelon, cantaloupe and honeydew are all healthy options for your pooch. “My dogs will take me down over cantaloupe,” says Lauten. “I am required to share the whole thing with them.” Consult animal poison control before feeding your dogs any of the more exotic melons.
SUNFLOWER SEEDS (SHELLED)
Skip the salt if possible, or serve in moderation, recommends Lauten. “Remember, treats should not comprise more than 10 percent of your dog’s daily calorie intake. If your dog gets 500 calories a day, 50 calories could come from treats.”
PEANUT BUTTER
Peanuts don’t appear to cause allergies in dogs like they do in people, says Lauten. “I have some highly food-sensitive dogs for whom peanut butter is a large part of their diet.”
BERRIES (FRESH AND FROZEN)
Blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, huckleberries or raspberries — all are good for your furry friend for the same reason they’re good for humans: free-radical-fighting antioxidants. “A lot of dogs like them frozen,” says Lauten.
COOKED CHICKEN
Ran out of your dog’s regular food? Whether boiled, baked, served rotisserie-style or grilled, this food is a healthy substitute. “Dogs will eat a freshly cooked chicken any way they can get it,” says Lauten.
Healthy dogs can handle cooking oils and seasonings. Just be sure to avoid adding onion or too much garlic. If you’re concerned, non-salt seasonings can be used, but that matters more for the human eater than the dog, explains Lauten. Scrambled eggs, hamburger, rice, pasta and/or oatmeal can serve as meal replacements in a pinch, adds Lauten.
CHEESE
This is a safe snack for dogs, but just like humans, they can experience lactose intolerance, so monitor your dog’s reaction. “Many families use a dollop of cottage cheese with every meal,” says Lauten. To avoid overfeeding, consider giving your dog low- or reduced-fat dairy products.
BANANAS
“My dogs love bananas and I share mine with them regularly,” says Lauten. “All fruits have phytonutrients and required nutrients. They are good for all of us. If the foods are healthy for me, they are more apt to be healthy for the dog,” says Palika.
APPLE SLICES
Lauten recommends serving your pup seedless, organic apple slices, because apple seeds naturally contain cyanide. Citrus fruits such as oranges are good too, but leave off the rinds; they contain many oils and could be too strong for a dog’s digestive system.
BABY CARROTS
Fresh, crunchy vegetables are good for your dog’s teeth, says Lauten. Plus, it’s a bit easier not to overfeed with veggies. “If you’re giving your dog vegetables, you can give a lot more in volume,” because these are low-calorie foods.
GREEN BEANS
Because this veggie fills dogs up, weight-management programs often include green beans, usually canned with no salt added, says Lauten. “An entire can of green beans contains 70 calories. What a bargain, and filling too!”
VEGETABLES
You can feed you dog all of the following vegetables: squash, turnip, pumpkin, potatoes, celery, zucchini, cucumbers, celery, tomatoes, asparagus, carrot, red and green peppers, green beans, peas, and broccoli. There are many awesome dog food recipes that will tell you how to make yummy meals that contain some of these vegetables!
PASTA
You can serve this plain or with a little bit of oil. I would stay away from adding any garlic as some dogs can be very intolerant to it! It is not as dangerous as onion but close enough.
RICE
Rice is great food for dogs, especially if they are not feeling well. Just like humans, sometimes doggy tummies can be well-off eating soft rice and mushed chicken on those odd days.
TURKEY
Yes, dogs can most definitely eat turkey, as a general rule. Many premium dog food blends are made with turkey. What IS NOT good for dogs are turkey skin, bones or turkey fat. Also, make sure that no onions have come in contact with the turkey since onions ARE toxic to dogs.
LAMB
Cooked lamb is a great meal for your dog when fed in the appropriate portions! Make sure this is lamb without bones because cooked bones are soft and have the tendency to splinter. You must keep cooked bones away to keep your dog safe.
LAMB BONES
As with any raw meaty bones, be sure to offer them raw and frozen. Cooked bones have the tendency to splinter, and freezing helps kill off some of the germs we people tend to be so concerned about.
Be sure also that you get a good solid bone and not a thin one because raw or cooked they can splinter. I usually get good beef bones for my Bichon Frise and Cockapoo and then steam them. I stay away from the smoked bones as smoked meats aren’t even good for humans. It’s the marrow in bones that are excellent for your pets, and also chewing on the bones helps keep their teeth healthy.
DUCK
Dogs can eat Duck but you should not feed your dog duck bones as, like Chicken bones, they are quite small and splinter easily. This means your dog could choke on them and cut their mouth and throat on the splinters.18. Venison: Dog’s can eat raw venison. It is very good for them, but go slow on how fast you feed it to them. They can get upset stomachs. But feeding raw is the best. They have vitamins that provide for great coats, and energy! Our vet says it is very healthy. Start feeding to slowly and gradually increase the amount over time. This is to prevent indegestion possibilities and should be done with ALL dog meals whether it is dry or wet food.
FISH
This includes salmon, cod and haddock.
FROZEN CHICKEN
Dogs love frozen raw chicken necks and raw or cooked chicken hearts of liver!
EGGS
Eggs are a good source of omega 3′s and can help coat shine.
Eggs are a source of biotin, Vitamin A, Vitamin D, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B5, Vitamin B6, Vitamin B9, and Vitamin B12, among other things.
The one thing you want to be really carefully with is feeding a lot of egg whites, as they contain a substance that can hinder absorption of biotin in the body. It’s nothing to worry about if you give the egg whole (with the yolk) or cooked, though.
Eggs can be fed raw or cooked. Even though eggs can contain salmonella, RESEARCH SAYS it’s nothing to worry about. Your dog’s digestive system won’t have issues with it. Just make sure you handle any raw foods carefully, same as you would when preparing meals for yourself. (Wash hands and clean surfaces after.)
If you give eggs, it’s best to give them whole, including the shell if your dog will eat it. Egg shells are a good source of calcium. You can put the whole thing in a blender if your dog won’t chew the shells by herself.
Of course every dog is different and you and your vet know best if he or she has any food sensitivities, weight issues or other health concerns that should guide your dog’s diet. It is always a good idea to check with your pet’s doctor if you are planning on changing what your dog eats. Also keep in mind that it is best to introduce new foods to your dog slowly. You don’t want your pooch to get gas, bloating, soft stools or other digestive problems.
Anytime you’re feeding table scraps to your dog, make sure it is in conjunction with his regular diet and make sure it isn’t in excess. Dogs can suffer from a condition called pancreatitis when given too much fatty food.
Pancreatitis is serious and is often fatal if not diagnosed quickly, and there are often very subtle signs, so it is important to avoid too much fat in the diet.
Why Do Dogs Eat Grass?
Dogs explore the world with their noses and mouths. Pica is the medical disorder of eating non-nutritive substances such as grass, metal, clay, coal, sand, dirt, soil, faeces, chalk and pens to name a few! Dogs are remarkably flexible in their tastes; they'll polish off a bowl of dog food and then continue to see if there is anything else that is worth stealing! For dogs, grass could just be seen as attractive, sweet-smelling and accessible; so why not eat it?!
Dogs have been eating grass for thousands or even tens of thousands of years, and there's no evidence that this pica behaviour is bad for them. These are the theories as to why dogs indulge:
1. Wild dogs, wolves and foxes will eat all of an animal which they catch while hunting. Dogs are omnivores, eating meat as well as plants. They don't need grassy nutrients anymore because most commercial dog foods are nutritionally complete, however dogs are not nutritionists and they don't know that they've already received their vitamin or mineral requirements from their food. Their instincts tell them that grass is good, so they eat it.
2. Dogs are also said to eat grass to make themselves sick if they have a stomach irritation. Even dogs who usually don't eat grass will head straight for the nearest patch when they're feeling sick. They'll gobble a few mouthfuls, retch, and then throw up, or at least try to. We still aren't sure if dogs eat grass because their stomachs are upset or if their stomachs get upset after they eat grass. However, many veterinarians suspect it's the former. The stomach contains neuro-receptors that respond to what dogs ingest, they react to acidity, chemical content, and textures. The texture of the grass has a tickle effect on the stomach, which may induce vomiting. Dogs who are sick, often appear almost desperate for grass, they don't chew it carefully, they gobble it!
However, evidence suggests that most dogs that eat grass aren't unwell beforehand, or at least they don't appear so. In fact, according to their owners, fewer than 10% of dogs seem to be ill before eating grass and grass-eating doesn't usually lead to throwing up --in a recent survey less than 25% of dogs that were found to eat grass were sick after grazing.
3. Therefore, another theory is that dogs may eat grass to settle their stomachs if they are suffering from stomach pains. It is speculated that dogs might eat grass to improve digestion, to treat intestinal worms, or to fulfil a nutritional need, such as higher dietary fibre. Dogs that chew grass thoroughly and slowly, reduce the tickling effect on the stomach, enabling them to eat it without getting sick.
4. Some people believe it is a simple behavioural habit or boredom alleviator, especially when practiced by puppies and younger dogs. If you suspect your dog is eating grass because he is bored, ensure he is getting enough exercise and engage him in some fun activities, such as ball throwing, training or chase!
5. It is possible that dogs simply like the taste and even if you're feeding your dog well, he might still fancy some greens! Dogs have survived by scavenging. They simply weren't fussy, and dogs today haven't got any fussier. They are predisposed to like just about everything! In addition, there's some evidence that dogs get cravings for certain foods and for many dogs, a mouthful of grass clearly tastes great. If your dog likes to eats grass, try supplementing their diet by adding some grated green vegetables such as broccoli or green beans into their food.
These theories highlight that we don't entirely understand why dogs eat grass. Experts agree that grazing itself isn't harmful; the danger is in the form insecticides, herbicides and pesticides used on lawns that are toxic if ingested. Fertilisers are often one of the top 10 causes of pet poisoning in the UK, so keep an eye on how much your dog is helping you to keep the lawn at bay!
What food do dogs eat?
A dog diet may include raw or cooked meat, organ meats, vegetables, grains and fruits. There are pros and cons to feeding raw, cooked, or processed food. It is best to research different types of food and talk to a professional before deciding what diet is best for your dog.
Dogs should not consume: raw onions, garlic, grapes, raisins, or chocolate or anything containing caffeine, alcohol or root vegetables. These can be toxic to their bodies. Some houseplants can be poisonous if eaten by dogs, too.
Dogs are descended from meat-eating wolves, therefore meat should be included as a main ingredient in the most preferable diet for dogs. Dogs (wolves) are basically carnivorous in nature (at least biologically). Grains, fruit (e.g., blueberries and apples, but not citrus) and cereals should also be included in their diet in moderation. Vegetables are important for other nutrients and fiber and are included in most premium commercial dog foods, carrots are an excellent choice as a healthy treat, in bite sized pieces. Avoid sweets, salty items and overly fat foods. Too much fat in their diets can cause health problems and obesity just like in humans. It can also cause diarrhea if too much. A small amount of fat is needed to keep their skin and coats healthy, however.
Table scraps are usually too fat, too salty and not nutritious enough and bad for their teeth. Brittle cooked bones, especially small bones like from chicken, can splinter and be dangerous and even puncture bowels, do not give those to your dog. Therefore, avoid these strict no-no's if you want your dog to be healthy.
Giving your dog a quarter of a cup of canned pumpkin (like you use for pies, although not the kind with sugar, etc. already in it...just plain pumpkin) mixed in their food every day is very good for them nutritionally, helps their coats be healthy, and provides fiber that helps diarrhea or constipation. They love it, too.
well if your dog has digestion or stomach problems then iams is a good choice just make sure you use the food that best suits your dog's weight and health.
Some Foods dogs'd not eat
Want a happy, healthy pooch? avoid giving them these foods
A list of foods dogs should not eat if you want to keep them healthy and happy. Avoid feeding your dog these things and you will sleep well at night.
You will also learn the truth about what goes into your dog's food!
Contents at a Glance
- Why what you put into your dog's tummy i...
- Attention
- 17 Foods Dogs Should Not Eat
- This Is A MUST Watch
- What do you think about foods dogs shoul...
Why what you put into your dog's tummy is important
Just like you, what your dog eats is essential to their healthy and well-being, but did you know that feeding them the right things and cutting out the bad stuff can improve their life on a deeper level? What am I talking about?
Let's put it this way - our pets bring us so much joy. Hard day at work? snuggle up to your hound! worried about adult matters? give your dog a hug and it all goes away. It's a fact that animals like canines know an amazing sense of happiness that is so beautiful and joyous that they often times have dog programs working with hospitals to bring that same happiness to people who don't have much to look forward to.
Point is - when you realize how essential your dog is to your own well-being, you don't ever want to think about losing them, and if you have ever departed with a pet, you know just how hard it can be. I say this, because you can actually keep your dog around longer by changing their diet. Just like you and me, we can actually improve their longevity if we feed them the right things.
So now I want to tell you what foods dogs should not eat - including yours.
Attention
You can't imagine what the industry puts into your pet's dog food. The average life expectancy with this garbage nutrition is 11 years. Changing their diet can result into a 27 year lifespan.
17 Foods Dogs Should Not Eat
A list of things you should not feed to man's best friend
There are many things that your dog should not eat, and for complete information on dog nutrition, I suggest checking out Dog Food Secrets which will guide you through the process of keeping your pet safe. Certain foods can make your dog have digest problems, cause them to be seriously ill and at the very worst lead to death. Here are some that you should avoid.
Cat Food Anyone could easily make the mistake of giving their canine friend cat food, and why not? cat's eat it and we tend to have both, but the truth is that cat food is way too high in protein and fatty acids for a dog's stomach.
Avocado : All parts of avocado contain Persin which can lead to vomiting and problems with diarrhea.
Caffeine : Coffees, teas or chocolates contain high amounts of caffeine which can be hard on their heart and nervous system.
Fish : Any type of fish, either raw or cooked is bad for your dog. It will cause a vitamin B deficiency which can lead to a seizure.
Grapes : Grapes contain a toxin that causes damage to a dog's kidneys.
Dairy : Dogs will experience issues with extreme diarrhea if given milks, cheeses and other dairy products.
Mushrooms : These contain many different toxins that can lead to death or cause them to go into shock.
Raw Meat : In movies you may see a raw piece of meat thrown to a hungry hound, but in actual fact it will give them problems with vomiting and diarrhea.
Salt : Salt is harmful to dogs because it causes problems with their electrolyte levels.
Onions or Garlic :Both of these items destroy red blood cells in dogs and can lead to anemia.
Macadamia Nuts : It only takes 6 of these to make a dog sick. It can cause their heart rate to increase dramatically, lead to paralysis, vomiting and even death.
Xylitol : Xylitol is found in candies, gum and even toothpaste. If your dog is given this liver failure is an extreme risk and they can go into seizures.
Scraps of Fat :Many people will commonly give their dogs table scraps, but this is unwise. Fat trimmings can cause pancreatitis in your dog. Scrap bones can cause them to choke.
Peach and Plum Pits : The pits in both peaches and plums contain minute traces of cyanide, which in small dosage may not be harmful to humans, but to dogs it could be another story. Pits also cause inflammation in the smell intestine.
Raw Eggs : Eggs in raw form can often contain E.coli and salmonella. Plus eggs can cause your dog to have skin problems.
Yeast : Yeast can have a reaction in your dog's stomach and cause stomach pains.
Human Medication : I can't specify everything here, and some people might think that common answers to simple human problems might be good for their dog, but most of the time this is not the case. You should always check with your vet first about what you can and cannot give a dog.