Search in this site

10/24/12

How to Solve Dog Behavior Problems

Inside this Article

  • Introduction to How to Solve Dog Behavior Problems
  • Handling an Aggressive Dog
  • Handling a Dog That Bites
  • Stopping a Dog from Chasing Cars
  • Stopping a Dog from Chewing
  • Stopping a Dog from Eating StoolStopping a Dog from Excessive Digging
  • Stopping a Dog's Fighting Behavior
  • Stopping a Dog's Excessive Guarding
  • Stopping a Dog from Jumping
  • Stopping a Dog from Marking Territory
  • Stopping a Dog from Leash-Pulling

In most cases, behavior problems are really communication problems. When you stop to think about it, it's amazing humans and dogs can live together at all. Besides being totally different animals, we also see,hear, smell, taste, and feel the world very differently -- and process it all through a very different brain.

Dog behavior can be cute and endearing or it can be destructive or drive you up a wall. See more dog pictures.

Back when all dogs were wild, actions like chewing, scent-marking, and barking weren't an issue. Now that dogs are a regular part of human families, these natural behaviors can become problem behaviors. That means we have to shape a dog's natural behavior so it fits in with polite society -- what we might call teaching a dog good manners.


Handling an Aggressive Dog


Dogs can be aggressive for myriad reasons, ranging from furious anger to loving playfulness. Defensiveness, territorial protection, pain, even reproductive urges -- these all can cause aggressive behavior. It behooves every dog owner to know the difference, for everyone's safety and benefit. It cannot take much to push an aggressive dog to the point where he is biting or attacking a family member or neighbor. There are, however, strategies to make your dog friendly and sociable. Learn how.



Handling a Dog that Bites


Dog's mouths are analogous to human hands -- they are dogs' way of interacting with the word and analyzing it. Dogs bite for many reasons, including anger and self-defense and love and playfulness. These reasons are easy to confuse because in the end they all have the same result. For whatever reason your dog has a tendency to bite, there are solutions to keep your dog from biting people or other dogs. 


Stopping a Dog from Chasing Cars


Dogs have a deep urge to chase quickly moving things, and so when your dog gives chase to a Chevy, it makes a lot more sense to him than it might to you. In fact, the site of any object passing by your dog at a high speed can make your dog want to take off after it. Such a dog can confuse or frighten a driver, and put himself in danger. You can break you dog of this habit with a little patience. In this section you will find some tips on curbing your dog's car-chasing urge.


Stopping a Dog from Chewing


Young dogs are especially prone to chewing because - just like newborns - it can be painful when their teeth grow in. But even grown dogs will chew inappropriately if distressed or bored. In some cases, chewing can even be good for your dog and keep his teeth clean. You can train your dog to know the difference between good chewing and bad chewing. Learn how to keep your dog focused on the chew toy and not your new sneakers.

Stopping a Dog from Eating Stool

It might not be pleasant to talk about, and it certainly seems repulsive to us, but many dogs eat their own feces or the feces of other animals. Coprophagy is the medical name for this unpleasant canine habit that is more common among younger dogs. If an older dog eats its own stool it could be a sign or a more significant problem. There are ways to get your dog to break this natural inclination. In this section we discuss ways to remove the temptation from your dog.


Stopping a Dog's Excessive Digging


Dogs like to dig, and in fact some breeds have been bred to do just that. In most cases it's harmless, but it can be very destructive to your yard -- or your neighbor's. It can also be messy when you're dog spends an hour exploring the mud in your garden and then comes bounding into the living room. Let's also not forget that your dog can just as easily burrow into your carpet as your yard. If you'd had it with your dog's excavations, in this section we discuss ways to curb your dog's urge to dig.


Stopping a Dog's Fighting Behavior


Dogs are very territorial, and very tuned into the hierarchy of a group. Dominance is very important in canine society. In fact, most of the behavior problems you have with your dog may stem from the way your dog perceives the power structure with you. If your dog believes he is the "top dog" or "alpha male" in your house, he might try to assert his dominance over you. For this reason, they can be motivated to fight, and when dogs fight, it can be quite frightening and dangerous for all involved. Here we explain the fight-impulse and how you can curb it or prevent it from coming into play.


Stopping a Dog's Excessive Guarding


If you walk by your dog when he is eating his dinner and he gives you a nasty growl, he's not just being rude. Dogs guard their food by nature, but sometimes this behavior can become almost compulsive. Not only can this behavior lead the occasional swipe at your fingers, it is also important to be able to get something out of dogs mouth if it is toxic. In addition to food, dogs can also be protective of their favorite possessions. Here we discuss the problem, and ways to solve it -- some that involve a change in the dog-owner's behavior.


Stopping a Dog from Jumping


When a pooch races across the room and jumps up to your shoulders, it's not always a sign of love and affection -- and regardless, it's often inconvenient, uncomfortable or downright frightening. While some owners like to be greeted by their dog so enthusiastically, your dog might give the same salutation to other, more inappropriate guests. Pizza delivery people, relatives who are afraid of dogs, or young children might be put off by an aggressive dog. You can curb this behavior and even train your dog to jump on command. You will learn how in this section.


Stopping a Dog from Marking Territory


It's natural for a dog to mark territory, but they can take it too far, especially if they're understress. With help from you in regulating their world and teaching them appropriate behavior, a dog can be trained to mark territory only where appropriate. As with guarding their food, marking territory is behavior that is ingrained in all dogs. While you can't train to teach your dog to sit at the table with a knife and fork, you can teach him to control this habit. This section will give you the advice you need. 


Stopping a Dog from Leash Pulling


Dogs are genetically encoded to pull on a leash, stemming from their historical use as pullers of sleds and packs. Some dogs, however, take this behavior too far by straining against the leash so hard that it interferes with their breathing. It might not be possible to break your pet of this habit entirely, but that's not to say you can't train your pooch to keep this aggressive behavior to a minimum. Depending on your breed of dog, this section offers a variety of solutions for this problem. 

An aggressive dog isn't necessarily an angry or violent dog. Move on to the next section to learn how to handle this problem.


Handling an Aggressive Dog


Aggression is probably the most common reason an otherwise healthy dog is euthanized (put to sleep). We sometimes forget dogs are predators and can inflict serious and even fatal wounds. A truly aggressive dog is terrifying -- and rightfully so.

You need to understand if your dog is really displaying aggression. The word aggression has a specific meaning in the field of animal behavior. It's also relative: What would be aggressive to us may be perfectly ordinary to a dog. A good example is play. A child who chased another child across a field, bit him on the back of the neck, and pulled him down to the ground at a dead run would be acting pretty aggressively. However, to a pair of playing dogs, that's an accurate description of a good time. Play is often viewed as practice for real-life skills, so it's not unusual to see stalking, chasing, hunting, and even killing behaviors as part of normal dog play.

So how can you tell? Usually by the look and sound. Does the dog have a play face (wide-open eyes and relaxed-open jaws, like a big, toothy grin)? Is the behavior accompanied by furious or loud snarling and barking? Or is it play-growls and happy yips? A surefire sign is if the roles reverse: If there's a chase on and suddenly the chasing dog changes direction and is being pursued, you can bet it's play.

There are several reasons why your dog may display aggressive behavior. Here are the types of aggression.

Defensive. Here's a classic scenario for defensive aggression: The dog does something wrong; the owner catches the dog and scolds him; the dog then retreats under the bed; the owner reaches under the bed to pull the dog out and reprimand him for the misdeed; and the dog bites the owner.

Any dog will bite when he feels threatened. In this case, the dog gave ground and made himself "invisible," which is submissive behavior in dog society. The only reason the dog could think of to explain why the owner was still pursuing him after he had submitted to the owner's dominance was the owner intended to do him harm. So the dog protected himself. The best thing to do if your dog retreats is to just leave him alone.

Territorial. Territorial aggression is one of the reasons we like living with dogs. They will defend their territory -- which can include our home, our possessions, their food, and us -- against all comers. Without territorial aggression, there would be no watchdogs.

But territorial aggression can get out of hand. It can pop up in things as minor as jumping up, as frustrating as marking territory, or as serious as biting. Again, a good dominance relationship with your dog is crucial. If you're the dominant dog, he'll feel secure when you feel secure -- and won't defend territory against friendly visitors, meter readers, and letter carriers -- but will still defend you and your home when the need arises.

Agonistic (pain-related). A sick or injured dog knows he is vulnerable. The same is true for an aging dog, whose senses have dulled, reactions have slowed, and mobility has decreased. Even ordinary situations can make a vulnerable dog feel the need to lash out in his own defense.

Sometimes the dog's pain is obvious, and you can be ready for possible aggression. Other times, however, it's not so easy to tell until it's too late. If you're petting or playing with your dog as usual, for example, and he suddenly growls or snaps at you, you should suspect something hurts and call the vet right away.Arthritis is a common cause for this type of behavior.

Reproductive. This one probably needs no explanation. If there's a female dog in heat anywhere in the known universe, unneutered male dogs know it and will try to get through everything -- including each other -- to reach her. The drive to reproduce can trigger fighting with other dogs and even uncharacteristic aggression toward family members.

The surefire solution for this type of aggression is obvious but important: You must neuter or spay your dog, preferably before the age of six months.


When to Call the Vet


Aggressive behavior isn't something that can be ignored or laughed off. Your dog's life depends on it. If your dog is launching serious attacks, especially without warning or provocation, get him in for a thorough veterinary exam as soon as possible. Your vet can help you determine a course of treatment or refer you to a competent behaviorist. Though aggression can sometimes be related to a physical problem, such as abrain tumor, encephalitis (infection of the brain), lead poisoning, low blood sugar, or liver disease, it is usually a behavioral problem. If your dog shows any form of aggressive behavior, call your vet or an animal behavioral specialist immediately.

One of the most characteristic types of aggressive behavior in dogs is biting -- something we dread whether we own a dog or not. We cover this behavior in the next section.


Handling a Dog That Bites

Each year, anywhere from half a million to one million dog-bite injuries are reported. The most likely victims of dog bites are children under 12 years old (accounting for about 60 percent of the total), and the top five perpetrators are Chow Chows, Rottweilers, German Shepherd Dogs, Cocker Spaniels, and Dalmatians. In the general dog population, unneutered male dogs are the most likely to bite. In other words, keeping an unneutered male Chow Chow in a home with a two-year-old, a five-year-old, and twin eight-year-olds will probably guarantee you'll take at least one bite-motivated trip to the emergency room. This doesn't mean you should never have bite-prone breeds or that you must wait until the kids are in high school before getting a dog. It does mean you need to have a better understanding of why and when dogs bite, and take steps with your dog and your family to bite-proof your household.

How to Avoid Dog BitesIf you're facing a dog who's exhibiting threatening behavior, how you respond (or don't respond) can make the difference between getting away safely and getting bitten. Any dog can bite, so don't assume that the dog you know who's growling and staring won't hurt you. Similarly, an unfamiliar dog who isn't showing threatening behavior should not be assumed to be friendly. Since children are at highest risk for dog bites, teach youngsters in the family these basic techniques--and practice them yourself.

The most important rule to remember is: Never approach any strange dog. If the dog approaches you, don't run. Stand perfectly still (tell young children to stand like a tree), with your fists folded underneath your chin and your elbows close to your body. Keep your legs together and look straight ahead, not at the dog. (Remember, staring is a threat gesture.) If the dog approaches you while you're on the ground, roll onto your stomach with your legs together, fists folded behind your neck, and forearms covering your ears (tell kids to act like a log). Remain still until the dog goes away.

In at least half of all reported dog-bite cases, the bites were provoked by the victim -- although often unintentionally. Dogs usually give clear signals they're ready to bite -- clear, at least, to other dogs and to people who know how to recognize them. The most common dog-bite scenario involves a person or young child who misses the dog's warning sign and gets within range. The other common cause of bites is miscommunication. Perhaps the best known example is the encounter between a child and a stray dog: Frightened by the sudden appearance of a large and unfamiliar pooch, the child instinctively screams and runs away. This triggers the dog's chase reflex or is misinterpreted as play behavior. Either way, the only way the dog has of catching the child is with his mouth.

Classic canine body language that signals a dog's readiness to bite includes staring, bared teeth, growling, stiff-legged stance (it almost looks like the dog is standing on the tips of his toes), raised hackles (the fur on his shoulders, back, and rump), and a wagging tail with a stiff, rapid movement. Usually, your final warning is a more intense stare and deeper growling. When the dog's head is lowered and the ears go back against his head, you can expect the next thing you hear to be the sound of his teeth snapping together on whatever of yours he can get ahold of. Of course, it doesn't have to come to that. A wise person will back off well before it gets to this point.


When to Call a Behaviorist


If the potentially threatening dog you encounter is your own, you may need professional help. Dogs may bite out of fear, defense, pain, or to protect territory -- all reasons too subtle for you to detect without knowing what to look for. A trained behaviorist can help you pin down the reason for your dog's biting as well as develop a strategy to change the behavior. This might be as simple as giving the dog more exercise; socializing with people and other dogs; or teaching all family members to leave the dog alone while he's eating, sleeping, or hiding. However, it may involve a more extensive overhaul of your relationship with your dog.

When dogs chase cars some owners might find cute or comical. However, it can be a dangerous problem. In the next section, we will help you break your dog of this bad habit.


Stopping a Dog from Chasing Cars


"I'm not so concerned about Old Blue chasing cars," starts the old joke, "it's when he brings 'em home and buries 'em in the yard that I start to get worried."

Dusty jokes aside, car chasing is a problem for some dogs. Some car chasers are just answering the instinctive call to the hunt: Anything that moves can serve as prey. Others may be acting on territorial instincts, driving away (no pun intended) the motorized intruder from their turf. Still others -- usually herding breeds or mutts with strong herding instincts -- are trying to get those wayward cars back into the "flock." Basically, any dog will be inclined to give chase to a moving object -- a tossed stick or ball, a passing cat or squirrel -- but the trick is to teach him when chasing is okay: Fetching sticks and catching a ball are fine; trying to fetch the neighbor's cat and catch passing cars aren't.

First, try to figure out why your dog chases cars. Out in the country where things are more spread out and neighbors might live up to a mile apart, letter carriers deliver the mail in little jeeps. A car-chasing dog might view the daily arrival of this red-white-and-blue thing at the end of the access road as a regular attempt to crash his gate. Once the motive for the dog's chasing is understood, the solution may be as easy as introducing the dog to his nemesis. A few friendly encounters -- perhaps punctuated by a favorite game or treat -- and the threat evaporates, as does the car chasing.

Predatory chasing can often be corrected using a leash or a distraction (such as an unpleasant noise) to interrupt the start of the chase. When the dog turns his attention away from the chase, reinforce the behavior with praise (and an occasional treat). Of course, the surefire method to keep a dog from chasing cars is to keep him safely fenced or leashed.

Try giving the dog who sees cars as wayward sheep something more constructive to do with his herding instincts. Give him plenty of exercise, including several long walks or runs each day, or play running and jumping games with a Frisbee. These dogs are good candidates for organized sports like flyball and agility training, too. If you have a herding dog (like a Collie or Sheltie), the best thing to do is train him for herding trials -- after all, it's what they were born and bred to do! Again, this is something you should consider before you adopt a dog from a herding breed. It takes a lot of time to keep a dog like this busy, but you'll both be happier you made the investment.


When to Call the Vet


This type of behavior usually doesn't require any veterinary attention.

Next we'll look at dogs who chew things they shouldn't -- and how to stop them. You no longer have to live in fear that you'll wake up one morning and find your shoes are chewed to pieces.


Stopping a Dog from Chewing

A dog's mouth is the canine equivalent of our hands; it's what dogs use to pick up and examine things, evaluate their potential use, and transport them from one place to another. Chewing lets a dog know what something feels like, how it tastes, and whether it's good to eat. It's a natural part of dog behavior: You can no more train a dog to stop chewing completely than you can train him to stop breathing. Chewing is also an important part of the pup's development. Just like babies, puppies chew in part to soothe sore gums during teething. It can take up to a year for a pup's adult teeth to come in, so this is another instance where you'll need lots of patience to teach your dog what he can chew and what he can't.

Naturally, your dog will be attracted to anything with your scent on it, so be sure to put away shoes, socks, and other items you've handled that you don't want destroyed. In fact, getting a puppy is terrific incentive to get everyone in your household to pick up clothes, shoes, and toys -- if you don't, the odds are they'll be gnawed into oblivion. It won't take too many instances of a favorite item getting shredded before even the most careless family member is putting things away. Never give a dog old shoes or clothing to chew on. Shoes especially will retain your scent. In fact, never give your dog anything as a chew toy that is the same as something you don't want him to chew; he won't be able to tell the difference between the old boot you gave him to gnaw and your new hiking boots.

Make those toys you want your dog to chew (and he should have a number of them) as appealing as possible. If he seems to be going exclusively for things with your scent on them, put chew toys in the laundry hamper for a day or two before giving them to your dog. Rubbing something tasty on the outside of rubber balls or other toys or stuffing treats inside of hollow toys can encourage the dog to select those items to chew on his own. In general, be sure you're giving him the message clearly from the beginning. Give him the appropriate toys to chew, and praise him for chewing them. Always keep a chew toy within reach (even carry one with you). If you see your dog working on something you don't want him to chew, quickly remove the item and replace it with a toy, then immediately praise him for chewing the correct item. There a million things in your home you don't want him to chew; it's much easier to teach him to recognize the handful of items he can chew

If you want to give your dog bones to chew on, stick to large knucklebones or thigh bones. Before you hand them out, sterilize bones by boiling them for half an hour. Never give small bones or bones that could splinter easily, such as chicken or turkey bones.

Some dogs remain very active chewers all their lives. Destructive chewing is especially common in dogs who spend a lot of time alone, since it's a way of working off boredom or anxiety. "Home alone" dogs need to have lots of different toys, which should be rotated to keep things interesting. When you're home with the dog, be sure he gets lots of exercise and quality time with you.


When to Call the Vet


As with any behavior problem, have your vet take a look at your dog before you start any corrections. On occasion, a destructive chewer is signaling his teeth or gums are bothering him. If there's a physical cause for the behavior, no amount of training or correction will change it.

Now let's consider how to stop a dog from eating stool. It's in the next section.


How to Prevent Chewing

Of course, the most important part of prevention for chewing is common sense: Keep everything you don't want chewed out of your dog's reach, or keep your dog out of areas where nonchewable things can be easily found. Dogs who chew only when left alone can be put into their kennels or crates. (Never use the crate as punishment. The crate should be thought of as your dog's den -- a safe and happy place.)

Since you can't put things like the sofa or dining room table on a high shelf, you'll have to resort to other methods. Some trainers recommend applying a mixture of cayenne pepper in petroleum jelly or some other unpleasant-tasting substance to furniture legs and other potential chewing zones. (Test the substance on an inconspicuous spot first to make sure it won't damage the finish.) Upholstery can be protected by putting double-sided tape (or a flattened loop of masking tape, sticky side out) on items such as furniture skirting, curtains, and bedspread hems. If the tacky feel doesn't dissuade your dog from chewing, you can try dusting the outside with a nontoxic, unpleasant-tasting substance such as cayenne pepper.

Corrections for chewing inappropriate items should only be made when you catch your dog in the act. Never reprimand a dog after the fact. No matter how much you think he looks like he knows he's been bad, he's really only reacting to you and your anger. Instead, when you catch him chewing something you don't want him to, quickly take away the incorrect item (you can also interrupt the unwanted chewing with a shaker can or other distraction for emphasis), immediately substitute it with a chew toy, and then praise him lavishly.


Stopping a Dog from Excessive Digging


Digging is another natural dog behavior. They do it for lots of reasons. Terriers, for example, do it simply because they've been bred to do it for countless generations -- part of their original job of digging out burrows and going in after varmints like rats and badgers. Other dogs dig to fix themselves a place to sleep, to stash some food, to make a secure hiding place, or out of pure boredom. And some do it just because it's fun.

If your dog has started excavating your yard or digging holes in your love seat, try to figure out his motive. Is he bored and trying to while away the hours doing a little relandscaping? Is he trying to beat the heat by making a bed in the cool earth? Is he an unneutered male trying to get under the fence and after that female on the next street? Or maybe he's burying bones or other treats to enjoy later on? Once you think you have a handle on his reason for digging, you can take steps to change the behavior.

Now, if your dog is one of those who's been bred to dig, you've got a tough row to hoe. You're never going to get him to quit, so you're going to need to give him the opportunity to dig where it's okay. Try giving him his own plot of dirt or a sandpit (fewer muddy tracks) to dig in. Encourage him to dig there, and praise him when he does. Keep the area appealing with lots of toys and treats. If he digs because he's trying to find a cooler place to lie down, simply provide more shade in that spot or move him to a place where he can be more comfortable -- under a tree or in the house, for instance. The dog who's trying to escape might be a little more difficult to deal with. Some people have gone so far as to put concrete or wire beneath their fences to keep digging dogs in. Neutering or spaying takes away a major motive for escape. Other dogs feel anxiousor threatened out in the open for long periods of time. Sometimes, just providing shelter -- access to a garage, shed, or doghouse -- is enough to put an end to the great escape.

Again, use distraction techniques when you catch your dog in the act of digging where you don't want him to. As soon as he stops, praise him, play a favorite game, give him a toy, or take him to his designated digging area. Never correct a dog for digging after the fact. This only confuses him, making him anxious and more likely to dig!


When to Call the Vet


Digging behavior usually doesn't require any veterinary attention.

Now let's look into dogs who fight excessively, and how to stop this behavior. It's covered in the next section.


Stopping a Dog's Fighting Behavior


Dogs get into scrapes with other dogs as a way of figuring out who's dominant to whom in canine society, to defend territory (including mating rights), out of fear, to protect their food, and sometimes as a defensive "first strike" when they encounter a dog who has attacked them in the past. A neutered or spayed dog who has spent his formative early weeks of life with his mom and littermates and has had plenty of socialization since -- with other dogs and people, too -- has the best chance of staying out of fights. Of course, all that is water under the bridge once you have an adult dog who is a fighter. You might always have a fighting dog, but you can take steps to keep the situation under control.

Your reaction determines how your dog will react to other dogs. If you anticipate trouble when you see other dogs headed your way, your dog will pick up on your uneasiness and immediately perceive the approaching dog as a threat. Keep a loose lead, keep moving, and keep up a happy stream of conversation. Your dog needs to learn to view the approach of other dogs as normal, not negative.

Every dog, especially one who's prone to fighting, should be obedience trained. When another dog approaches, require your dog to go through an obedience routine or perform some other activity to take his attention off the other dog and focus it on you. If he starts growling or barking at the new arrival, you can now legitimately correct him for failing to respond to commands, not because of the approach of another dog.

Reproduction is a driving force behind territorial and aggressive fighting. Neutering a male dog is an absolute must for controlling and correcting fighting. Female dogs can be aggressive, too, and spaying is just as important. In fact, neutering and spaying have significant, long-range health and behavior benefits for all dogs.


When to Call a Behaviorist


All dogs are not created equal, especially when it comes to dominance. If there's fighting between two dogs in your own household, they may be trying to figure out who answers to whom. A behaviorist can help you understand what's going on and offer advice on how to solve the problem. Remember, to a dog, being dominant or subordinate is a perfectly normal and natural thing. Don't make the mistake of thinking your dogs must treat each other as equals. Correcting dog behavior means occasionally thinking like a dog.

If your dog growls whenever you get close to one of his bones or food, it can be a real nuisance. In the next section, we'll learn how to cure your dog of excessive guarding.


Stopping a Dog's Excessive Guarding


Instinct tells a dog to protect his food. However, it's important for you to have complete control over what goes into your dog's mouth. Part of this is for safety. If your dog starts to pick up something dangerous or deadly, such as rat poison, you need to be able to get it away from him without losing your fingers. However, access to food is also a dominance issue: When your dog responds by taking his food or dropping things out of his mouth on command, he is recognizing you as the dominant dog. Food guarding is a frequent trigger for dog bites, too. Therefore, the sooner you can establish that you and other family members are the ultimate authority when it comes to meals, the better off you'll be. 

If your food guarder is still a puppy, you need to let him know everything he gets comes through you: food, toys, even petting. Tell your puppy to sit or lie down before you feed him, and make him wait until you give the release word, such as okay or take it, before he starts to chow down. If he comes up and nudges you for attention, use the same tactic to make it your initiation. He should also learn it's okay for you to touch him while he eats, so give him a pat when you put down his dish, and make it a habit to add a little food to his bowl while he's eating. This way, when you are near his food dish, it is always a happy occasion.

Location means everything when you feed your dog. If he's off in a corner, he may feel more possessive than if he were eating in a more spacious area with room to move around. Practice giving him food and taking it away. To do this, give your dog very small portions at a time. Each time he finishes a serving, take his dish away and refill it with another small amount until all his food is gone. As you take away and replace the dish, praise him for being a good dog. Once he's responding well to having his dish removed and replaced, move on to the next step: adding the food to his dish while it's still in front of him. Let him eat some of the food while you're off doing something else, then walk up and add something special to the dish, such as a piece of hot dog or a liver treat.

Let's get one thing clear, though: All this is so you have the ability to control what goes into your dog's mouth. Practice these techniques now and then so you can maintain your dominance relationship with your dog. The most important thing to remember is not to pester your dog while he's eating. Since most of Rover's meals should be in peace, teach all household members -- especially children -- that he is to be left alone at mealtime.


Guarding Other Possessions


Lisa is a working single mom with two young children, ages 4 and 7. She got their dog, Hugo, from the pound as a companion for her kids and protection for the house. Hugo is a sweet-natured dog, excellent with the kids. However, he often growls and bares his teeth at them when he has a toy. "I don't get it," Lisa told the behaviorist. "My kids can just walk into the room where he's sitting with his toys and he growls. He even brings a ball for them to throw, chases it, and then snarls at them when he brings it back!"

A dog who's possessive about possessions is making a statement -- you just need to make sure you're understanding it. In Lisa's case, part of the problem was a miscue on playing. Hugo loved to play fetch, but after several rounds of running down a tennis ball, he just wanted to lay down and chew. Unfortunately, the children thought his flopping on the ground a few feet away was part of the game and would take the ball away and throw it again. Hugo learned the only way he could end the game was to act threatening.

In other cases, it's more a matter of dominance. Using the same techniques as for food guarding can be effective, but owners often need to be assertive in other ways, too. Keeping the dog on a leash -- even in the house -- sends a clear message that you're in control and everything is fine. Obedience-train your dog, and when he starts guarding a toy, issue a command, changing the focus from the toy to the behavior required. Praise him when he responds to the command (even if you had to correct him or use the leash to get him to do it). As part of his obedience training, every dog should have a command to stop him from picking something up or drop something already in his mouth. (Variations of this command are "Drop it!," "Leave it!," "Don't touch!," and "Out!")

If a particular kind of toy causes the green-eyed monster to visit your dog, dump it. Bones are especially likely to turn even the nicest dogs into jealous, possessive brutes. If your dog can't handle them -- or certain other toys -- don't give them to your dog. Don't forget to lavish your dog with praise when he does something right. Any time your dog turns away from a toy to respond to a command or lets you take something away, don't hesitate to tell him what a great dog he is. The amount of praise you give should always outweigh the number of corrections you make.


When to Call a Behaviorist


If guarding behavior becomes a recurring problem for your dog, an animal behaviorist can recommend the proper course of treatment. Once a remedy has been established, make sure all household members learn how to approach this problem.

Even if you enjoy it when your dog jumps up to greet you after a long day, some of your house guests might not. In the next section, we will learn how to keep your dog on the floor.


Stopping a Dog from Jumping

Whether it's a body slam from a bubbly big breed or the frenzied hind-leg ballet of a toy pooch, jumping up is a universal trait -- and problem -- in our canine companions. There's no doubt this behavior is cute in puppyhood, but as a puppy grows -- especially if he's a big dog -- what was once cute can be downright dangerous. You may not mind the full-contact greeting, but the first time your two-year-old niece or 87-year-old aunt gets decked coming in the front door, you'll think very differently.

In fact, even though jumping up can be solicitous, friendly behavior, it is more often a dominance thing. Especially in adult dogs, a subordinate would never think of putting his front paws on the body of a dominant dog. So the excited, shot-from-a-cannon greeting that makes you feel good may actually be your dog saying, "You came back! Okay. Just remember I'm the top dog here." You can respond on two fronts: Teach your dog that spontaneous jumping up is not acceptable, and train him to jump up on command when you say it's okay.

To curb his overly physical greeting, act as relaxed and laid-back as you'd like him to be. When you come home, don't run into the house, calling excitedly for your pup. Instead, make his greeting part of a routine rather than a special event. Walk in the door, hang up your coat and keys, and then greet the dog calmly, away from the front door. If Bruno tries to jump up, step aside and don't pay any attention to him. Like kids, dogs love to be noticed, whether it's for good behavior or bad. Yelling at your dog or kneeing him in the chest will only excite him more, so avoid any kind of verbal or physical reinforcement of his jumping. Once your dog learns you don't want him to jump on you, teach him to sit when you come home. If you reward the sit with a treat or praise, your dog will soon learn good things come to he who sits and waits.


When to Call the Vet


This type of behavior usually doesn't require any veterinary attention.

Now let's consider another dog behavior that can become excessive -- marking his territory. It's covered in the next section.


Teaching Your Dog to Jump Up on Command

If you want to teach your dog to jump up only on command, be sure your dog first knows when not to jump up. Wear clothes you don't mind getting dirty or torn, and make sure your dog's nails are trimmed and filed. (It might be a good idea to brush his teeth, too!) Pat your chest and say, "Up!" When you want the dog to get down, step back and say, "Off!" (Don't use the word down or you will confuse him when you try to teach the down command.)

Always use the chest pat and the word up to let your dog know it's okay to greet you this way. If he tries to jump up on you or anyone else without an invitation, firmly tell him, "Off," and then ignore him. Dogs are smart, and Bruno will get the message that he is only allowed this behavior when you say it's okay. Be sure your friends and family follow this routine, too, or Bruno will be one confused dog. Dogs like rules, and they like everyone to follow the same rules.


Stopping a Dog from Marking Territory


We can't even imagine how the world smells to a dog. A dog's sniffer is an incredibly fine-tuned, delicate instrument compared to our own sniffer. It makes sense, then, that scent-marking -- spraying urine on places and objects to mark territory and claim ownership -- is an important part of canine communication. The chemical scent-messages in a dog's urine tell other dogs just about everything they need to know: where the marking dog hangs out, how long it's been since he's been around, and (in the case of a female) sexual receptivity. A dog who's nervous because he's home alone may mark furniture or walls to reassure himself that everything is all right. Scent-marking can also be a way of asserting dominance, which is why some dogs will lift their legs on other dogs or even people.

Scent-marking is a perfectly normal and natural behavior that is instinctive in your dog. The idea is to let your dog know it is only to be done at specific places and times and not on your living room rug, bathroom floor, or bedspread. Once again, your dominance relationship with your dog can make all the difference.Obedience-train your dog in a positive and humane way, and run him through his commands regularly. This not only clarifies your dominance, it gives a dog who gets bored, lonely, or anxious during the day something to look forward to. Make him work for food, toys, play, and petting. If he wants one of those, have him respond to a command or two first.

Always walk through doors before he does, and don't let him jump up on you or get on the furniture, especially your bed. In canine society, you usually only get to jump on or lay next to an equal or subordinate dog. Neutering, especially before the dog is one year old, is another good preventative. Your dog will still be protective of home and family, but he won't have a hormone-driven desire to stake out reproductive territory.

Spraying due to separation anxiety is another matter. Your best bet here is to slowly get your dog used to being home by himself. Start with something simple, like leaving him alone in a room for just a minute or two and then returning. Then leave the house, returning after a few minutes. Each time you practice this, stay away for just a little bit longer. Once your dog learns you always come back, he'll be more comfortable staying by himself. Confining him to a crate can also help him feel more secure.

To deter your dog from spraying furniture, attach a piece of aluminum foil to the area where your dog likes to spray. The next time he does it, the urine hitting the foil will make a noise and may also splash back on him.

Finally, don't confuse scent-marking with an ordinary housebreaking problem. A large puddle of urine on the kitchen floor or near the back door is probably a sign the dog needed to get outside while you were gone -- not a display of dominance!


When to Call the Vet


As with any behavior problem, have your vet take a look at your dog before you start any corrections. If there's a physical cause for the behavior, no amount of training or correction will change it.

Dogs love to pull on leashes, but if they do it excessively, you'll want to train them out of this habit. We cover how, in the next section.


Stopping a Dog from Leash-Pulling


Try this simple experiment. With your dog standing calmly in front of you, gently push backward on his chest or the front of his neck. What happens? Most dogs will lean into the pressure. This natural response has been bred to a science in sled dogs such as the Siberian Husky and in breeds who were also originally used as draft animals, including the Newfoundland. You've got absolutely no chance of controlling one of these born-to-pull dogs with brute strength.

We've all seen even tiny dogs straining at the end of the leash, bodies close to the ground, tongues lolling, breathing with a loud, choking rasp. The same instinct is at work. The trick is to teach your dog how to walk nicely on a leash from the very beginning. You don't have to expect him to walk perfectly on heel, but he should be able to stay with you without pulling, and he should make all the starts, stops, and turns that you do. If you use a jewel-link training collar (don't think of it as a choke collar -- that's not how you should use it), any time the dog begins to pull, give a quick snap and release on the leash and tell him, "Heel" or "Slow" (whichever word you choose, be consistent). When he backs off, praise him.

Another alternative is a head collar -- a device similar to a horse halter. Marketed under the name Gentle Leader, it's widely available through veterinarians and trainers. The collar loops around the dog's muzzle and behind his ears, with the leash snapping on under his chin. Since you control his head with the head collar, all the rest of him can't help but follow. Instead of hitting the end of the leash, feeling the pressure on his neck, and instinctively pulling harder, a dog in a head collar ends up getting his nose turned back toward you, slowing him down immediately. A retractable leash can also help keep pulling under control. Because it expands and contracts with the dog's movement, the dog has nothing to pull against. The brake allows you to control where the dog walks.

If you've got a sled dog or draft breed, don't fight his instinct; instead, harness it and make it work for you. Let your dog pull you on skates or skis, or train him to pull a sled or dog-size cart. He'll get a workout, he won't be in trouble for pulling, and you'll have a new way to haul things.


When to Call the Vet


This type of behavior usually doesn't require any veterinary attention.
We've covered 11 distinct dog behaviors that can get out of hand, and w

10/23/12

Dog Not Eating? Possible Causes and Appetite Solutions


Whether you’ve had pet dogs for years or you’ve just adopted your first puppy, it can be very distressing when your dog won’t eat. There are a variety of reasons for loss of appetite in dogs, it is important to determine the cause in order to design the best treatment plan.

The first thing to keep in mind is how you’re judging your dog’s appetite. If you’re concerned because your dog isn’t eating as much as the guidelines state on the food you purchase, remember that these are only averages. Many perfectly healthy dogs eat only 60% to 70% of the amount stated on the packaging.

When a dog won’t eat, it is referred to as anorexia. This is different from anorexia nervosa, an eating disorder found in humans, and instead describes a complete loss of appetite in dogs.

Because loss of appetite in dogs can indicate illness, it is important to seek veterinary care if you notice changes in your dog’s eating habits. It is especially important to respond promptly to a refusal to eat in dogs that usually eat well, puppies, small dogs, and older dogs.

Even though most dogs can go a couple of days without food without significant repercussions, it is best to address the problem as early as possible.

Reasons your dog won’t eat

  • Just like in people, there are a variety of reasons dogs might refuse to eat. These include:
  • Illness. A decreased appetite in dogs is often a sign of sickness, especially if your dog is exhibiting other symptoms at the same time. Although a loss of appetite in dogs doesn’t necessarily indicate serious disease, prompt veterinary attention is important because it could be a sign of significant illness, including cancer, various systemic infections, dental disease, pain, liver problems, and kidney failure.
  • Recent vaccination. Fortunately, vaccinations are available for many serious and contagious dog diseases. Although these injections have saved the lives of millions of pets in the past 100 years, they do sometimes have adverse effects. The majority of these are minor and brief, including a temporary loss of appetite in dogs. 
  • Travel and unfamiliar surroundings. If your dog’s appetite was fine until you went on a trip with him or moved to a new location, it may be that your dog won’t eat because of traveling or the unfamiliar surroundings. Some animals may get motion sickness, and others become nervous or uncomfortable in new places.
  • Pickiness or behavior issues. Some dogs are just picky, or their refusal to eat may be caused by feeding them in situations where they aren’t comfortable, such as around an aggressive dog or from a bowl at an uncomfortable height. Because a decreased appetite in dogs may be caused by illness, never assume that your dog is picky without investigating other possibilities first.

What to do when your dog won’t eat

What you can do to help when your dog won’t eat will depend on what you and your veterinarian determine to be the cause of the problem.

If your dog’s loss of appetite is caused by illness, the vet may recommend a prescription diet to meet your pet’s nutritional needs while the underlying disease is being addressed. Sometimes these diets are not particularly tasty, especially if your dog is used to regular treats or people food. If your dog is already ill, never starve your pet in an attempt to force it to eat the prescribed diet. Instead, talk with your veterinarian about alternatives. In more severe cases, your vet may prescribe appetite-stimulating medications, recommend syringe-feeding a liquid diet, or insert a feeding tube.

If your dog’s decreased appetite is a behavior problem caused by pickiness or a discomfort with mealtime, rather than the result of a medical condition, there are a number of things you can try to encourage your pet to eat.

These include:
  • cutting back on treats
  • feeding your pet on a regular schedule, usually at least twice a day
  • making mealtime a fun time for your pet, such as by playing with a toy that dispenses food or rewarding your dog with food for doing a trick
  • taking your dog for a walk before mealtime
  • changing your dog’s feeding situation. If you normally feed your pet with other animals, try feeding him alone. Or try using different bowls or plates at different heights to see what your dog prefers. (You might even put a few pieces of food on the floor next to the feeding dish)
  • trying a different kind of food, such as canned food if you normally feed your dog dry food.

Why Do Dogs Eat Poop?

Most new owners are delighted by puppy antics but puppies eating poop prompts anything but smiles. My own darling Magic indulged when he turned six months old. He’d make a beeline to visit his horse buddy next door and find the nifty treats she left on the ground. After these nasty snacks Magic always tried to kiss everybody on the lips, yuck! Then Magic started to bring his own “creations” into the house.

Why Puppies Eat Poop

Dogs commonly eat their own or another animal’s droppings (coprophagia). This is normal behavior for mom-dogs that must clean up after their babies, and some of the pups may end up mimicking this behavior. It first appears in pups at about four to nine months of age.

When we wave our hands, shout with disgust, and chase Puppy all over the yard, that’s great puppy entertainment. Chasing him can actually reward with behavior and encourage your puppy to play poopy-keep-away.

Eating other animals’ waste may have to do with taste. Cow and horse manure may contain undigested corn or other ingredients appealing to your pup. The cat’s litter box may as well be a puppy snack bar. Cat food contains more protein than dog food, and as a result, feline waste tastes good to dogs. The nasty habit is not only unsanitary it puts Sheba’s tail in a twist to have a dog messing with her toilet. Cats pestered in their bathroom look for another place to “go” such as behind the sofa.

Other times dung eating stems from boredom. Pups left out in the yard alone have little to do.

The frequency increases after one year of age. The good news is most pups outgrow the habit. The bad news is, some dogs hang on to the nasty practice their whole life. Shih Tzus appear to be more prone to the behavior.

10 Tips to Stop Poop Eating

Puppies may eat waste to get your attention, which means even yelling rewards their behavior. If you catch Rex in the act, don’t make eye contact or speak to him, but shake a can full of pennies or clap hands to make the noise interrupt him.

For bored pups, increase playtime to a minimum of 20 minutes aerobic exercise twice each day. Increase the number of toys to keep your puppy busy when you're away if he’s left in the yard. A treat-spiked toy such as a Kong filled with peanut butter offers a tastier, healthier alternative.

Prevent access by walking your puppy on a leash and leading him away once he’s done. Reward him for leaving stools alone. Teach him to “come” and sit in front of you after each bowel movement—his or the other dogs’—and give him a fantastic treat while you pick up the waste.

Some dogs may eat their own stool when it hasn’t thoroughly “processed.” A more digestible food may help. Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation. You’ll need to make a gradual change in the food or the sudden change could prompt diarrhea.

Make the stool unappealing by adding a spoonful of canned pineapple, canned pumpkin, or spinach to the pup's meal. Include a dash of MSG in the food, which changes the consistency so dogs won’t find the waste as appealing. Commercial products such as For-Bid may help.

Scoop and clean the cat box as often as possible. Leaving droppings any length of time asks for trouble. Automatic cat boxes sweep the feces into a bin within ten minutes of the cat’s deposit.

Place the litter box on a table or counter out of doggy reach. If the cat doesn’t object, a covered litter box might deter the dog but allow the cat access and privacy.

Use a baby gate to keep the dog out of the cat’s domain. Some cats can jump over the standard gates, or you can install it a couple of inches off the ground so Sheba can slink underneath while the jumbo-size pup can’t get through.

Add a tablespoon of vegetable oil to the cat’s food so her waste becomes softer and less attractive to snacking dogs. A spoonful of canned pumpkin added to her food also changes the taste or consistency of her stool to make it less appealing, and many cats relish pumpkin as a treat.

Finally, if you can’t be around to supervise, muzzle the miscreants.

In our case, walking on leash away from the horse, a baby gate to keep him from the cat box, and rewarding Magic with a treat after bowel movements did the trick. He’s an adult now and hasn’t “indulged” in more than four years. Good boy!

what should puppies eat

Feeding your puppy nutritious food is one of the most important things you can do to keep him healthy.

When to begin should foods

Most puppies begin weaning from their mother's milk and eating solid foods at about four weeks of age.

what nutrition does your puppy need

Your puppy needs several key nutrients for good health: proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals (especially calcium and phosphorus).

Sources of these key nutrients include meats and vegetables. This is why most dog foods have mixtures of meats and vegetable matter. (Dogs are true omnivores, which 
means they can digest and absorb nutrients from both meats and vegetables.)

Protein
Protein is absolutely essential; it gives your puppy strength and keeps muscles healthy.

Puppy foods usually have a mix of proteins from dairy/meat and vegetables/ grains. Meat proteins are the highest quality source for dogs. The following are commonly used protein sources in commercial puppy foods, listed in order of highest to lowest protein concentrations: chicken meal, lamb meal, fish meal, poultry by-product meal, meat and bone meal, corn gluten meal, rice gluten meal and dried egg product.

Fat

Fats are needed for energy and proper growth and development; they keep the skin and coat healthy and help digestion.

Fat sources in puppy foods can include animal fat such as pork, chicken or beef tallow. Vegetable oils such as soybean, corn or sunflower are also often included.

Fat makes food taste better but it can spoil easily, so the puppy food you choose should contain high-quality fat such as beef, chicken, flax and canola.

Carbohydrats

Carbohydrates are chemical compounds found in breads, cereals, grains, fruits and vegetables. They provide energy. In puppy foods, carbohydrates are usually provided through grains such as wheat, barley, rice and corn. Some studies have found that the ideal amount of carbohydrates in food should be about 20 per cent. If carbohydrate levels are too low, your puppy could get sick.

Calcium and phpsphorus

Calcium and phosphorus are minerals which promote the growth of bones and teeth. 


They are found in products such as bone meal and certain vegetables and legumes.

The calcium and phosphorus levels in puppy foods must be provided in the right combination. An imbalance of the minerals will cause bone or muscle problems. The ideal calcium level varies depending on the breed and size of the dog as an adult. Small breed dogs (less than 25 kg/50 lb) need less calcium than large breed dogs, in which higher calcium levels help prevent problems associated with rapid growth, such as bone deformities.

Fibre

Fibre helps move waste products through the intestines, helps improve stool quality – and it helps your puppy feel full after meals, which can prevent overeating. Fibre sources found in some puppy foods include beet pulp, peanut hulls, wheat bran, soy mill run and cellulose.

Varying nutrirnt need

Puppies need various nutrients in different amounts than adult and senior dogs. As your puppy becomes an adult and is spayed or neutered, his energy and mineral demands will decrease because he will be growing less.

Adult dog foods generally have fewer calories than puppy foods and different levels of minerals. Your veterinarian can tell you when to start feeding adult dog food. (When your dog grows into a senior dog, his nutritional needs will change again.)

Your veterinarian can help you choose a food that might be suitable for your puppy. If you look for foods on your own, try to find foods approved by CVMA (Canadian Veterinary Medical Association) Pet Food Certification Program to make sure they are nutritionally balanced.

Nutrient levels in puppy food

There are standard levels of key nutrients that must be included in dog foods. These are usually listed as percentages on a chart.

How to Make Sure That Your Dog Is Ok After Giving Birth

How to cope with a dog who is giving birth, and be sure everyone is in good shape afterwards.

Steps

1 Dogs will start looking for a protected place to have puppies (dog pregnancies last about 63 days, in case you're counting). You can help her out by providing such a place. The ideal situation is out of household traffic, warm and dry, like a small den. She will stay there with the puppies until they are old enough (gradually, about 8 weeks till weaning). Closets often look good, sometimes under desks or in drawers (depending on the size of the dog).

2 Stay calm! If you're anxious, the new mom will pick this up and it will make her nervous, too.

3 Be sure all the puppies have been born. If the mother is calm and relaxed, settling in to clean and nurse the puppies, things are good. If she seems distressed or there is bleeding, call the vet!

4 Be sure clean water is available and close by (but not where puppies can fall in and drown). Same for food. Mom will not want to go far from the puppies, or for very long at first.

5 Keep your dog isolated, with a "den" she can care for the puppies in without a lot of disturbance. She will be protective; don't allow strangers (especially kids) to be there alone, and don't let anyone touch the puppies unless it's really clear the mother doesn't mind. Usually this will be after their eyes are open and they are wandering around a little.

6 Keep in mind that you must keep the dog clean and comfortable. Change the bedding periodically; there will be some urine and puppy poop to clean up.

 Tips

The breasts should be bigger than usual; this means her milk glands are getting ready to feed babies. The first "milk" is a substance called colostrum, and is a sort of grayish-white; this is normal. It's loaded with antibodies to protect little ones from infection.

Warnings

If you have questions or concerns, contact your local vet for information!
Puppies often need to be "wormed" after birth, and will need shots. Contact the vet to do these things.

Things You'll Need

Bedding that's washable or that can be discarded when you clean it up. Lots of bedding. There will be puppy pee and poo; they don't come housebroken, and aren't old enough for about 12 weeks.

After birth:

- Lots of towels (so you can wash one set, and have a clean set on hand!) - Scale - Lots of food for mom! - We kept our mom and puppies in a baby pool for the delivery and afterwards, its quite nice and easy to wash regularly.

Dogs' Behavior After Giving Birth

When new born puppies arrive, they are blind, deaf and helpless. Your dogs behavior after giving birth is generally related to the protection and care of these infants. She may seem like a very different animal while she is caring for her newborns, but generally she will return to her normal self after the puppies have reached a certain age.

Aggressive Behavior

Dogs have a strong protective instinct, which is never more prevalent than in a mother who feels like she must protect her puppies. The aggression is often due to hormonal changes and may occur in the days leading up to the birth as well. Generally, the more socialized the dog is before she gives birth, the better.

After giving birth she may snap at people, particularly strangers who come close to her puppies, or who are loud or make sudden moves near her puppies. Giving her a quiet place to whelp, away from the normal traffic of the house will help her to feel safe. Bringing a lot of different people to see the new puppies can aggravate her aggression, so it is best to keep it to only one or two people who she knows and trusts.

Urinating in the House

A new mother dog might also suddenly appear to forget her toilet training. Particularly in the first 24 hours to a week after the pups are born, a new mother will be very reluctant to leave them for any reason. While she will tend to eat the excretion produced by the new puppies to keep them clean, she will depend on you to lay newspapers down in case she has an accident.

She may not want to eat for the first 24 hours after the birth, but will eat a great deal after that and should be given as much as she wants. After the first 24 hours you can also take her outside away from the puppies to encourage her to go, but she shouldn't be kept away from them for long. After a week, she should relax and will leave the puppies for short periods of her own accord. If she continues to urinate inside, she may have a bladder infection or other problems and should see a vet.

Other Behaviors

New mother dogs may seem to search about for something, or try to "dig" in areas of the house. Often this is because they are looking for a place to hide the puppies, and is a sign that they don't feel safe. In this case, try leaving the dog alone with her puppies for longer periods and cut down on the number of people she sees.

A new mother will also lick her puppies constantly for several weeks. This not only creates a bond between her and the puppies but also helps their digestive systems to work properly.

Your dog should be able to handle her new circumstances as a mother with ease, but she still relies on you to give her assistance when needed. Knowing what to expect will help owners to remain calm and understand the new behaviors she might exhibit.

About Dog's Maternal Aggression

What self-respecting mother would not do allwithin her power to look after the welfare of heroffspring? Not too many. But sometimes thesefeelings of protectiveness can be expressed as"maternal aggression" that can make a once-friendly pet virtually unapproachable.

Some of this protectiveness arises out ofaffection and concern of a mother for her young.However, nature and alterations in brainchemistry catalyze the response. The sight, sound, and smell of thenewborn, as well as tactile signals received during nursing, cause therelease of a "bonding hormone," oxytocin, which seals the

mother-infant bond (and has other mechanical effects on the uterusand other smooth muscle tissues). In addition to this change, blood levels of progesterone, the hormone ofpregnancy, fall rapidly as estrogen levels climb. The calming effect of progesterone is lost and the more activatingeffect of estrogen replaces it. Also, and perhaps most significantly, the rise and fall of the milk-releasing hormoneprolactin exactly parallels that of maternal aggression. 

This series of biological events and the powerful feelings they promote is responsible for maternal protectiveness,which, in an extreme situation, will often show up as aggression. Maternal aggression is a post-partum characteristicof all mammalian species, including horses, pigs, dogs, cats and others. It is not wise to approach a mare and foalwithout forethought, and it is risky to vault into a formerly friendly pig's stall right after she has given birth. Likewise,some caution should be exercised working around recently whelped bitches and recently kittened queens.


It is possible that people who are familiar and non-threatening will receive diplomatic immunity from this form of aggression, but unfamiliar people, familiar persons lacking the respect of their pet, and unwelcome members of the same or a different species, may be driven away in no uncertain terms.

The Dog

Bitches with pups may be more aggressive for all the same reasons as queens. Those that are more dominant and controlling prior to whelping will be more likely to show this type of aggression. This sort of aggression is really a hormonally enhanced version of dominance aggression in which the object being protected is the litter. 

If maternal aggression is directed toward the dog's owner and if the dog is large enough to pose a human health hazard, she may have to be kenneled for a while. Spaying, which eliminates the influence of estrogen, and subsequent treatment with synthetic progesterone, rapidly reduce maternal aggression. Spaying may be indicated for more than its immediate effects because victimized owners may not want to go through the experience again. In any case, maternal aggression of this magnitude likely has some genetic input and probably shouldn't be propagated.

Infanticide

Infanticide is an unpleasant variation on the theme of maternal aggression. When mothers give birth to young, and then find themselves in situations that are not conducive to rearing them, they will sometimes kill the whole litter. A rottweiler dog once killed her entire litter 24 hours post partum when they were returned to her after tail docking. She may have felt that they had been damaged or contaminated in some way and should be put out of their misery. This may seem something of a paradox but humans have been known to engage in this ultimate sacrifice, too. It is impossible to comprehend the suffering that precedes such sacrifice. 

Infanticide of this nature is well known in laboratory rodents who kill their young if they have been handled too much or blooded. Presumably odors play a key role in triggering this fatal misapprehension and presumably this behavior has a biological precedent that favors long term healthful survival.

Conclusion

Nature and nurture usually combine influences to produce behaviors that are beneficial for the survival of individual and the species. Maternal aggression is a short-term behavioral trait that makes perfect sense when viewed from this perspective. Pups and kittens are helpless without their mother's support and protection. To juice up a mother's protectiveness and willfulness at this critical fostering time is a logical and functional arrangement. 

Nature is always logical and predictable if you understand that its prime function is to recycle the animal's genes. The role of nurture is a little less obvious, but nonetheless evident. Experience lubricates the machinery of mothering so those more experienced moms make better moms. They learn how best to look after and defend their new babies, building on and taking pleasure in their success. There are occasional bad mothers who "just don't get it," but they are in the minority and the chance their offspring will make it to breeding age is correspondingly reduced.

10/22/12

Should Our Puppy Sleep With Us


Q. We just got a new puppy, and my wife doesn't want him going upstairs in our house, where the bedrooms are. I think it's mean to keep him downstairs, especially when we're all in bed at night. How can I convince her to let him treat the house like his home?

A. In my lifetime, and in my more than three decades as a practicing veterinarian, I have seen dogs move from the barnyard to the backyard to the bedroom -- and into the bed itself. My own dogs, like many others, have fully made this transition, but I can remember well the first time I pressed my father to let our farm dog sleep in the kitchen during a big snow storm. The dog would have been just fine in his insulated area in our barn, but in he came, and the Becker dogs have been pretty much inside ever since.

(And the fact is, I wouldn't want to push my wife too hard into choosing between me and her precious Quixote if there were room for only one of us in the bed. I might not win that argument.)

But while there are many good reasons to show your dog that he is part of your family by giving him access to your home, the case isn't as compelling for letting dogs into your bedroom. There is even a good argument, with studies to back it up, that keeping your bedroom pet-free is better for the quality of your sleep. In addition, a pet-free sleeping area helps with any allergies you or your family members may have.

That information isn't going to change the mind of the many people who wouldn't dream of kicking their pets off the bed. It won't change the situation in my family, for sure, which is why I can understand why you'd want your dog allowed upstairs. I can assure you, however, that your puppy will be just fine if he's restricted to the ground floor of your house. If your wife does not move on that point, take comfort in the fact that your dog will be happy and healthly and comfortable, even if he's denied sleeping space on your bed.

However, I'd like to suggest a compromise in the interest of marital harmony: Have your pup sleep in a crate in your bedroom at night. He'll be comfortable, close and confined in a way your wife may find more acceptable. And chances are good that as your new puppy becomes bonded to you and your wife, he'll end up on the bed in the end anyway.

You can die if you Letting Sleeping Dogs Lie in Your Bed

Medical researchers have long shown that contact with pets can often help both the physically and mentally ill. But now, veterinary scientists say sleeping with your pets increases the chances of contracting everything from parasites to the plague.

What's a pet owner to do?

Most U.S. households have pets, and more than half of those cats and dogs are allowed to sleep in their owner's beds, Drs. Bruno Chomel, a professor at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine, and Ben Sun, chief veterinarian for California's Department of Health, say in a study to be published in next month's issue of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's (CDC) Emerging 

Infectious Diseases.

"We wanted to raise the attention of people, as sleeping with a pet is becoming quite common, and there are risks associated with it, even if it is not very frequent," Chomel told AOL News. "But when it occurs, especially in children or immunocompromised people, it can be very severe."

The authors, both experts in zoonoses, which are diseases or infections transmitted from animals to humans, reported that "the risk for transmission of zoonotic agents by close contact between pets and their owners through bed sharing, kissing or licking is real and has even been documented for life-threatening infections such as plague, internal parasites" and other serious diseases.

How many of us admit to others that we sleep with our furry friends? Many of us do, according to the study.

Among dog owners, 53 percent consider their dog to be a member of the family, and 56 percent of those dog owners admit they sleep with their dog next to them, the researchers reported.

We're not just talking about teacup yorkies and chihuahuas here. Yes, the study says, most are small dogs, but 41 percent are medium-sized, and one out of three are large. Also, consider this fact, which the authors attribute to the American Kennel Club: Women were more likely than men to allow their dogs to share their beds.

As strange as it may be to canine lovers, more people have cats than dogs, and these felines also carry disease. This study and several others show that disease from cats is far more prevalent, and often more serious.

The number of cats snuggling up with their owner is far greater, which may explain the larger number of people acquiring feline-spawned diseases, Chomel explained.

Take cat scratch disease, for example. The bacterial infection, caused by Bartonella henselae, comes from infected fleas and flea feces and is transmitted to humans, often simply by a cat strolling across a food preparation area that isn't disinfected before food is placed on it. Mostly, the victims of cat scratch disease are children, infected by the scratch, lick or bite of a cat. The pathogen can cause swelling of the lymph nodes and sometime lethal damage to the liver, kidney and spleen of humans.

The CDC estimates that more than 20,000 people can contract cat scratch disease a year, but the federal disease agency could offer no information on the number of deaths.

Risks and Benefits

The CDC reports that pets may lower blood pressure, reduce cholesterol and triglyceride levels, and decrease feelings of loneliness, while increasing opportunities for exercise, outdoor activities and socialization.

Medical studies going back at least 30 years have documented the clinical value of pets to cardiac patients, those hospitalized with mental illnesses and the elderly.

Sharing our resting hours with our pets may be a source of psychological comfort, but because pets can bring a wide range of zoonotic pathogens into our environment, sharing is also associated with risks, the authors of the current study reported.

For example:

A 9-year-old boy from Arizona got the plague because he slept with his flea-infested cat.
A 48-year-old man and his wife repeatedly contracted MRSA (methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus), which their physicians eventually attributed to their dog. The animal "routinely slept in their bed and frequently licked their face," the California experts reported.Kissing pets can also transmit zoonoses. A Japanese woman contacted meningitis after kissing her pet's face.

But disease can easily be transmitted by your pet kissing you. The study cited cases where a woman died of septic shock and renal failure after her cat, with whom she slept, licked open sores on her feet and toes. In another case, a 44-year-old man died of infection after his German shepherd puppy licked open abrasions on his hands.

Your pet's food can also be a source of disease. A study published last August in the journal Pediatrics tracked an outbreak of salmonella in 79 people between 2006 and 2008 that was caused by contaminated meat in dry cat and dog food.

Half of the victims were children, who CDC investigators said "might also have played with the pet food and then put their hands -- or the food itself -- in their mouths."

The disease also could have come from pets who rolled or played in their feces, where salmonella can stay alive for up to 12 weeks.

Where do our pets they pick up these diseases? Fleas are a likely starting point. And most of your pets will eat the droppings of other animals.

Take a dog to any beach, park or trail through the woods almost anywhere and watch the speed at which it will find something really foul-smelling and dead in which to roll.

Cats usually do their own killing for food and fun. And just think about the infectious bugs that laced the dead and dying rodents, birds and other critters they eat or try to bring into the home.

What Can Be Done?

The two senior veterinarians say several things can be done to reduce the threat of disease. The main one is for owners to ensure the health of their pets by seeking regular professional checkups and care. Other points include:

Persons, especially young children or immunocompromised persons, should be discouraged from sharing their bed with their pets or regularly kissing their pets.
Any area licked by a pet, especially an open wound, should be immediately washed with soap and water.
Pets should be kept free of parasites, especially fleas; routinely de-wormed; and regularly examined by a veterinarian.
Preventive measures such as administering anthelmintic drugs for flatworms -- and drugs for flukes, tapeworms and other parasites -- to puppies or kittens within the first few weeks after birth or, even better, to their mothers during the last few weeks of pregnancy. This could help prevent most cases of human toxocariasis, which can cause severe and sometimes permanent vision problems for young children.The risk of getting sick from being close with your pets is real, but most of the diseases they pass on to humans can be identified and eliminated by regular veterinary care.

Meanwhile, start practicing saying "Get off the bed. I mean it this time."

about dog sleep

There's no doubt about it: dogs sure know how tosleep. The amount of time spent napping variesfrom dog to dog and depends on the dog's ageand personality. Counting little naps and longersnoozes, most dogs sleep about fourteen hours aday.

Nobody is sure why dogs sleep so much. Theamount of sleep that an animal needs dependsupon its species. Horses and cows may sleep onlythree or four hours daily, because they require long hours of grazing tosupply their bodies with sufficient food. Bats and opossums may sleepcloser to 20 hours. 

The various breeds of dogs also seem to have different sleep requirements. Some very large breeds of dogs, likeNewfoundlands, Saint Bernards, and mastiffs, often spend a great deal of their lives sleeping – perhaps up to sixteenor even eighteen hours a day. For this reason they were often referred to as "mat dogs," because they could alwaysbe found lying in front of the fireplace, much like a giant, furry hearth mat. 

Dogs sleep more than us, but they wake more frequently than we do. How much and when they sleep depends on thelevel of activity in their environment. A dog living as a pet in the home is likely to sleep more than a dog that worksfor a living, like a search and rescue dog or a dog working on a farm. Dogs are lucky – they are able to adjust theirsleep pattern so that they can be awake when there is something to do, and asleep the rest of the time.

Of course, today's modern indoor dog sometimes sleeps out of boredom. You can help your pet by providing plenty ofstimulation during the day – this can be in the form of toys, a companion, or plenty of walks and playtime with you. If he has enough to do during the day, he may stay awake when the sun is up and sleep at night when you do.

Sleep Patterns

Dogs have the same sleep patterns as humans. When your dog first goes to sleep, he enters the slow wave or quiet phase of sleep. He lies still and is oblivious to his surroundings. His breathing slows, his blood pressure and body temperature drop, and his heart rate decreases. 

After about ten minutes, your dog enters the rapid eye movement (REM) or active stage of sleep. He rolls his eyes under his closed lids, he may bark or whine, or may jerk his legs. During this stage, the brain activity is similar to that seen during the dreaming sleep of humans, and is evidence that dogs have dreams. 

Incidentally, adult dogs spend about 10 to 12 percent of their sleeping time in REM sleep. Puppies spend a much greater proportion of their sleep time in this type of sleep, no doubt compacting huge quantities of newly acquired data.

Where Dogs Sleep 

You may think your dog will sleep anywhere, but some dogs are very particular about where they sleep. In the wild, dogs sleep in dens, and your dog may seek out a sheltered place in your home, such as under a bed or in a closet. You may notice your dog circling or pawing at his sleeping place before he settles. This is to make a comfortable, den-like depression in which to sleep (even though it doesn't have much impact on a short pile rug).

You can make a comfortable bed for your dog or choose from the variety of plush beds at your pet store. Some people love snuggling up to their dogs at night and there is no question dogs love sharing their owners' bed. Advocates of this method say it strengthens the human-canine bond – not to mention the comfort and warmth your dog can provide for you. However, some animal behaviorists say this can upset the sometimes precarious hierarchy, because the dog may get delusions of grandeur. In other words, he may think he is higher on your household's social scale than some other members of the family. Four-on-the-floor may be the order of the day for some of these characters.

10/18/12

Are Dogs Being Used as Shark Bait?

Stories of live dogs being used as shark bait on the French-controlled Reunion Island have resurfaced recently, accompanied by a well-known photo of a labrador retriever pup with fish hooks in its mouth and nose. Is there any merit to this claim, and is the photo real?

The story is true, but it happened several years ago and doesn’t appear to have been widespread.

Here is one current caption accompanying the popular photo:

We have to stop this PLEASE help!

French Islanders using live puppies and kittens as shark bait??

Please stop this senseless abuse to innocent puppies and kittens. French Islander and Mexican fishermen are using LIVE puppies and kittens as shark bait!! No living being should have to undergo…

Because this is horrendous and hideous. Can you imagine the fear these animals must be in the last minutes of their lives? No living being deserves to be treated and used this way. These are private fishermen and the penalty is ONLY 2 years and a monetary fine we want the penalty to be stiffened to deter this horrific crime!

A National Geographic reports on this from an October 19, 2005 article entitled “Dogs Used as Shark Bait on French Island.” The popular photo was linked as well. In the article we find that the dog in question was purportedly someone’s pet, but most “bait” stories included stray dogs. This is because stray dogs on the island were viewed as “vermin” by many locals.

The French embassy referred to the incidents as isolated and illegal, though animal rights activists in France claimed it was happening “almost every week” according to the article.

A still photo taken from the video showing the dog's paws also containing fish hooks.

The story was again reported two years later on August 3, 2007 in a story by The Sun. The same photo of a dog with a fishhook through its snout was included. That article stated, “The pup was found in a coastal creek and is thought to have somehow freed itself from a fishing line.”

A local paper originally reported on 9/30/2005 that a 50-year old man had been sentenced to two years in prison for animal cruelty. The National Geographic article reported a 51-year old man who was fined $5000 for similar abuse, though the man claimed the dog was accidentally injured by a trap he had set.

Though the story continues to circulate, there have been no additional reports of dogs being used as bait in this area after the initial report from 2005.

Below is the original video featuring footage of the dog from the widely-circulated photograph. Some have claimed that it merely shows a dog that was accidentally tangled in fishing equipment, but many conclude that this was done on purpose, and point to fines and jail time served as evidence.

'Causes' Petition Calling To End Using Dogs As Shark BaitOutline

Outline

The link to this petition recirculates periodically, most often accompanied by the photo of a dog with large hooks impaled through its snout. The petition, addressed to ‘the French government’ accuses French Islanders of using live dogs as shark bait and demands the French authorities end the practice. Some versions also link an article from the internet publication The Inquisitr. 

Brief Analysis

The link to this petition recirculates periodically, most often accompanied by the photo of a dog with large hooks impaled through its snout. The petition, addressed to ‘the French government’ accuses French Islanders of using live dogs as shark bait and demands the French authorities end the practice. Some versions also link an article from the internet publication The Inquisitr. 

The original expose on this activity in the waters of Reunion Island was from Sea Shepard in 2005. The Inquisitr article summarizes an article in the UK publication The Sun that was written 2 years after the fact –and after the French Government had already started taking action. As of this writing, the practice is entirely illegal, as is all shark fishing in Reunion Island’s waters, making the continued forwarding of that petition entirely pointless.

Detailed analysis and references below example.

Because this is horrendous and hideous. Can you imagine the fear these animals must be in the last minutes of their lives? No living being deserves to be treated and used this way. These are private fishermen and the penalty is ONLY 2 years and a monetary fine we want the penalty to be stiffened to deter this horrific crime!

Detailed Analysis

In August 2005, marine conservation organization Sea Shepard posted a story on their website about the use of dogs as shark bait by fisherman around Reunion Island (a French territory in the Indian Ocean near Madagascar). They went as far as offering a reward for any law enforcement arresting someone for committing what was already against existing law in that territory. Included among the photos was the oft circulated photo of the dog with a hook impaling its snout. 

In October 2005, National Geographic picked up on the story and published an article on their website, including a link to that same hooked pooch. Adding to the dog’s story, they indicated that unlike the other dogs usually found, this one was not a stray, but someone’s pet. 

2 years later, and 2 years after the French government began actively putting an end to the practice, word of the Sea Shepard article finally made it round to The Sun, who published a 6 sentence article about what was already becoming a non-issue – presumably motivated primarily by the fact that Prince William spent two holidays on Reunion Island. By 2008, even the US television show MythBusters got into the act, effectively demonstrating that the paddling and scent of a dog in the water is not an effective shark bait. That was soon challenged by an article from How Stuff Works indicating that tiger sharks aren’t that discriminatory in their diet and probably would go for a dog.

By 2011, not only had the French authorities effectively ended the practice of using dogs as bait, there had also been other non-profit groups step in to aid in controlling the islands burgeoning population of stray and feral animals. (Recall the Sea Shepard article – this has the additional benefit of preventing damage to more native species). 

On a related topic – a recent increase in shark attacks on surfers had prompted authorities to announce there would be a large shark cull. After a great hue and cry from environmentalists, those plans were cancelled. Which means pretty much all shark fishing in the waters of Reunion Island is illegal, no matter what sort of bait is used. A final word about the picture – it is highly unlikely that anyone with any experience in a boat would even remotely envision hooking a dog through its upper lip with the intent of dragging it behind a boat. While the thrashing might attract a predator’s attention, it would take only seconds for that hook to pull through the skin. And the most likely attack would be at the moving legs or larger body – not the head. Having the hooks there is just pointless. Other photos indicated hooks embedded through the feet and lower limbs – that would be more expected. Most reports also indicated the rogue fishermen were not trolling the dogs – they were tying them up on platforms and buoys. The Sea Shepard report indicates the nose hooked dog “had apparently escaped its captors and was taken to the SPA by a concerned citizen.” It is far more likely, as anyone who has ever taken a dog fishing will attest, that the dog got a little too nosy around someone’s tackle box or stringer and hooked itself. 

In the end, of course, it is not an issue the French government has turned a blind eye to, and continuing to forward the petition some 7 years after they began cracking down on the criminals is pointless. Readers should also be wary of less scrupulous likewhores simply using the photo and caption to pad their page’s like/share numbers.

Why are Grapes Bad for Dogs?DAVEN HISKEY APRIL 27, 2012 0

Gage asks: Why are grapes bad for dogs?

Eating a significant quantity of grapes (32 g of grapes per kg of dog) can potentially be fatal to dogs, though not to all dogs. About 2/3 of dogs are unaffected by grapes according to a study done by the Animal Poison Control Center. Dried grapes (a.k.a. raisins) seem to be just as fatal as their fresher counterparts to those dogs that are affected.

As to why grapes and raisins are bad for some dogs, generically speaking it’s because grapes and raisins can cause rapid renal failure (kidney failure). The exact mechanism behind the kidney failure after consumption of grapes or raisins isn’t known. Potential agents spelling the canine’s kidney’s kismet, such as common pesticides used when growing grapes or various fungi, have been ruled out.

It doesn’t matter whether the grapes were grown in your own garden or were commercially grown, nor whether they are seeded or seedless (grape seed extract actually seems to be perfectly safe for all dogs). So something inherent to the grape itself, and apparently to all types of grapes, seems to be the culprit, but beyond that, nobody knows (yet).

If your dog does ingest more than a few grapes or raisins and they are among those affected by grapes, sometimes they can be saved. Once you discover your dog has eaten several grapes or raisins, you should immediately:
Make them vomit (if they are affected by grapes, they probably will vomit anyways, but if not, make them).
If you have it on hand, make them eat activated charcoal. This will decrease the absorption of whatever is causing the kidney failure. If you don’t have any activated charcoal handy, burn some toast (the blacker and more charred the better), then make them eat it. Normally getting dogs to eat things is amazingly easy, but you might find it significantly more difficult in this case, as dogs that are affected tend not to want to eat anything.
Take them to a veterinarian. Aggressive introduction of intravenous fluids for about 48 hours has been shown to drastically increase the odds of your dog surviving. The quicker treatment begins, the more likely they’ll survive it, so don’t wait around for your dog to show symptoms. Plus, in the cases where the dog isn’t likely to survive, the dog can be euthanized on the spot without having to suffer a slow and painful death from kidney failure.

In case you’re curious about what the symptoms are that your dog might exhibit after eating a bunch of grapes, these include: vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, loss of appetite, shaking, lethargy, decreased frequency of urination (and/or reduced volume of urine produced), and hypovolemia (decrease in blood plasma; get out your blood plasma testing kits kids!)

About Grape and Raisin Poisoning in Dogs

Grape and Raisin Toxicity in Dogs

Grape and raisin (dried grapes) toxicity is well documented in dogs. Although the exact substance that causes the toxic reaction is not yet known, it has been shown that even small amounts of grapes or raisins can prove to be fatally toxic for a dog.

Dogs of any age, breed, or gender may be affected. One of the most serious complications of grape/raisin toxicity is acute (sudden) kidney failure with lack of urine production (anuria). However, kidney failure is not seen in all dogs after ingestion of grapes or raisins, and again, the reason why some dogs are affected excessively while others are not is still being studied. 

Symptoms and Types

  • Vomiting and/or diarrhea – often within a few hours; after 24 hours of ingestion vomit and fecal contents may contain pieces of grapes or raisin
  • Loss of appetite
  • Lethargy, weakness, unusual quietness
  • Abdominal pain
  • Dehydration
  • Oliguria (passing only a small amount of urine)
  • Anuria (complete cessation of urine)
  • Kidney (renal) failure and death
Causes

Grape and/or raisin ingestion – even small amounts can be toxic for some dogs.

Immediate Treatment

This is an emergency needing immediate treatment. If you are positive that your dog ingested grapes or raisins, you will need to induce vomiting as soon as possible, before the toxins in the fruit can be absorbed.

Try to induce vomiting with a simple hydrogen peroxide solution of one teaspoon per five pounds of body weight – with no more than three teaspoons given at once. If vomiting does not take place within ten minutes of the first administration, you may try again, using the same amount. This method should not be given any more than three times, spaced apart at ten minute intervals.

If your dog has not vomited after the third dose, do not use it, or anything further, to try to induce vomiting. Do not use anything stronger than hydrogen peroxide without your veterinarian's assent, and do not induce vomiting unless you are absolutely sure of what your dog has ingested. If your dog has already vomited, do not try to force more vomiting.

Also, do not induce vomiting if your dog is unconscious, is having trouble breathing, or is exhibiting signs of serious distress or shock. Whether your dog vomits or not, after the initial care, you must rush it to a veterinary facility immediately.

Activated charcoal is also useful for preventing absorption of toxin. Call a veterinary doctor immediately upon learning of your dog's ingestion of the grapes or raisins to find out how much activated charcoal to administer to your dog. Keep in mind that you will still need to take your dog in for medical care, as some dogs are more sensitive than others and may need more intensive care, such as a stomach wash/lavage and fluid therapy.

Diagnosis

Your will need to provide your veterinarian with as much information as possible so that treatment can begin. If your dog has vomited or had a bout of diarrhea, and you are able to collect a sample of it, this will help your veterinarian to diagnose the severity of the condition and begin treatment that much more quickly.

Routine laboratory tests, including a complete blood count, biochemistry profile, and urinalysis. These tests may return results of increased blood calcium, which in severe cases can lead to hypercalcemia, and higher than normal levels of phosphorous and creatinine, both indicators of the kidney's functioning status. Some changes in the urine, like the presence of glucose and/or protein, may be seen.

Ultrasound can also be a useful diagnostic tool for determining the size of the kidney along with finding evidence of abnormal deposition of minerals in the kidneys.

Without explicit evidence of the ingestion (i.e., pieces of the food in the vomit or feces contents), diagnosis is often based on circumstantial evidence along with the usual symptoms that appear after ingestion of grapes and raisins. Often, a toxic substance does not appear on a blood test, as has been the case in previous grape/raisin toxicity cases. The medical research community is continuing work on the discovery of the offending substance.

Treatment

A stomach wash/lavage and fluid therapy are among the first lines of treatment after vomiting has been successfully induced. Intravenous fluid therapy will be given for at least the first 48 hours, and drugs for encouraging urine output will be administered. If urine is not being produced within a short time, your veterinarian may find it necessary to place your dog on dialysis to support the kidneys while they recover. During this time, your doctor will be monitoring your dog's blood chemicals on a daily basis. 

Once the kidney has failed to the point that urine cannot be produced by the body, the entire system soon follows and the affected animal dies. In some cases, even timely treatment will not be enough if the toxin has already been absorbed. Time is of the essence with this situation, but in all cases, prognosis is guarded.

How to Prevent This Condition

Keep raisins and grapes out of reach of your dog, as dogs will ingest almost anything. Make sure that all family members are aware of the toxic capability of this food, as well as other foods that have been found to be toxic to pets, such as chocolate, onions, garlic, etc. If you do discover that your dog has ingested raisin or grapes, acting immediately is the best prevention for avoiding a complicated situation.

Raisin and Grape Toxicity in Dogs

Although many dog owners and dog trainers have traditionally used raisins and grapes as treats, RAISINS AND GRAPES IN LARGE QUANTITIES CAN BE LETHAL TO DOGS. As few as a handful of raisins or grapes can make a dog ill; however, of the ten cases reported to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC), each dog ingested between nine ounces and two pounds of grapes or raisins

If your dog has ingested large quantities of raisins or grapes, (s)he will immediately begin to vomit repeatedly, and will become extremely hyperactive and jittery. After about 24 hours, the dog will become lethargic and depressed. (S)he may experience abdominal pain and may stop urinating, drinking, and/or eating. (S)he will also become dehydrated. Both his/her vomit and feces will contain partially digested raisins or grapes. His/her breathing may become irregular, and (s)he will also become hypercalcemic (high calcium concentrations) and hyperphosphosphatemic

Ultimately, without treatment, the dog will go into renal (kidney) failure, and may die a horrible very painful death. Of the ten reported cases, only five dogs survived, and these only with early, aggressive, and long-term treatment

The best cure for an overdose, of course, is prevention. Because dogs can get hold of raisins or grapes from a variety of sources—the kitchen counter, the coffee table, vines in a private vineyard, a child’s lunch box—DOG-PROOF YOUR VINEYARDS and REMOVE RAISINS AND GRAPES FROM CANINE REACH. Do not feed your dog raisins/grapes as treats so that you can avoid him/her “getting a taste for them.” Remember that raisins are even more concentrated (and hence more toxic) than grapes—approximately four pounds of grapes equal one pound of raisins. The APCC also warns that any substance in large doses can be toxic.

However, if you suspect your dog has eaten a large amount of raisins or grapes, take your dog to a veterinarian immediately, and have them contact the Animal Poison Control Center for assistance. Have your veterinarian initiate decontamination measures, and administer fluids and/or dialysis to assist/restart the dog’s kidneys. Be aware that initially your veterinarian may suspect rat poison as the above symptoms are very similar to the symptoms of rat poison.

The APCC is still unable to determine the cause of renal (kidney) failure. Possibilities include 1) an agent in grapes and raisins themselves; 2) fungicides, herbicides, or pesticides contamination; 3) heavy metals; 4) high amounts of Vitamin D; or 5) fungus or mold contamination.

Information on raisin and grape toxicity is still very new; therefore, your veterinarian and fellow dog owners may not yet be aware of the danger. Please pass on this information to every dog owner, veterinarian, rescue group, breeder, newsletter, listserve, and pet food store you can.

After Your Dog Eats Chocolate

The ASPCA, Susan Thorpe-Vargas, M.S, Ph.D. in her article "Poisoned," and others strongly encourage pet owners to be prepared for a poisoning. When time can make the difference between life and death, it is important that the owner know steps to take immediately and have the first-aid tools on hand to take those steps.

To prepare, get knowledgeable. You'll avoid panic if you have educated yourself. Videos are great because they're convenient. A video is easy to play, can be viewed by a family together, and is a great way to relax in your easy chair while learning skills that can save the life of your pet.

Check Out This Veterinarian's Helpful Book

Dr. James Griffin and his associate, Lisa Carlson, DVM, wrote this thorough and picture-heavy book from which you can learn doggie CPR, rescue breathing and the Heimlich maneuver, as well as what to do for a wide range of emergencies: poisoning, drowning, bleeding, electric shock, fractures, cold exposure and heat stroke

Next be prepared by having on hand the tools you might need. The first-aid treatment for chocolate poisoning involves removing it from the body, quickly, before too much time passes and the theobromine has circulated, damaging the gastrointestinal tract in the process. The treatment includes:
inducing vomiting, which removes, and then administering
activated charcoal slurry, which absorbs.

The sooner this is done, the less the effects of the poison. That, in itself, explains the importance of dog owners having an emergency kit in their homes plus the knowledge for quick first-aid treatment.

To induce vomiting, Michelle Bamberger in Help! The Quick Guide to First Aid for Your Dog, Howell Bookhouse, New York 1993, recommends using three percent hydrogen peroxide, one-to-two teaspoons by mouth every 15 minutes until vomiting occurs. Alternatively, she suggests using Syrup of Ipecac. Use, she says, two to three teaspoons, only once.

You can get Syrup of Ipecac at almost any pharmacy. You do not need a prescription from your doctor. Syrup of Ipecac is inexpensive and will keep for several years if stored at room temperature.

After vomiting, Bamberger says to give the dog by mouth activated charcoal mixed with water to a slurry consistency. The dosage is 1 teaspoon for dogs who are less than 25 pounds and 2 teaspoons for dogs weighing more than 25 pounds.

Put Activated Charcoal in Your Emergency Kit

Toxiban Activated Charcoal. The substance is a fine powder form of processed charcoal that binds to many types of poisons and can keep them from being absorbed into the bloodstream. This product isn't easy to find online. We did compare prices when we found it and know this is a good deal. Check it out, getting some now, before you forget.

Toxiban might be wise to have in your pet emergency kit because it also is effective in adsorbing other poisonous substances eaten or drunk by dogs or cats. These toxins include, but are not limited to, strychnine, organophosphate and carbamate insecticides, herbicides, rodenticides, depressants and analgesics.

Some people have recommended burnt toast if you do not have activated charcoal on hand. However, at Tueskegee University veterinarians teach their toxicology students that "burned or charred toast is ineffective." 

In the event your dog has eaten chocolate, always gather as much information as possible. Note the type of chocolate the dog ate, how much chocolate was eaten and approximately when your dog ate it. Write this information down. Should you need medical help, your veterinarian will appreciate any facts you can provide. If you can't get this information quickly, don't belabor it. Write down what you can.

If several hours have passed between the time your dog ate a toxic does of chocolate and your finding of him or her, its possible that your dog is displaying severe symptoms. If your dog is having seizures or is comatose, don't delay, immediately take your dog to your veterinarian.

On the other hand, begin administering emergency treatment and contact your veterinarian or call the pet poison experts at the National Animal Poison Information Center at The University of Illinois in Urbana. Phone toll-free: (888) 252-7387. The Center provides computer-supported telephone consultation for potential poisonings. There is a nominal charge.

If your dog doesn't eat enough chocolate to induce toxicity, but is vomiting (without your prodding) or has diarrhea, it's likely that it's the chocolate's high fat content that is the culprit. Watch your dog carefully. You don't want him or her to dehydrate. Provide plenty of fluids.

If your dog's symptoms don't clear up within eight hours, call your veterinarian. If your dog is very small or young, call your veterinarian within four hours.

A good outcome is likely if treatment is provided within 4 to

Is chocolate poisonous to dogs?

You may have heard people say that chocolate will kill dogs? Does that make sense? If I can eatchocolate, why can't my dog?

Dogs and people are different in lots of ways. For example, dogs can run around in the snow all day in their bare feet and it doesn't cause them any problems. People can run around barefooted in the snow for 30 seconds or so before it hurts. There are lots of differences like that between dogs and people.

It turns out that, for dogs, a chemical in chocolate called theobromine is the source of the problem. Theobromine is similar to caffeine. According to this page, theobromine is toxic to a dog when it ingests between 100 and 150 milligrams per kilogram of body weight.

Different types of chocolate contain different amounts of theobromine: It would take 20 ounces of milk chocolate to kill a 20-pound dog, but only 2 ounces of baker's chocolate or 6 ounces of semisweet chocolate. It is not that hard for a dog to get into something like an Easter basket full of chocolate eggs and bunnies and gobble up a pound or two of chocolate. If the dog is small, that could be deadly.

It turns out that chocolate poisoning is actually not as unusual as it sounds. For a human being, caffeine is toxic at levels of 150 milligrams per kilogram of body weight (see this page). That's the same as for dogs! Humans generally weigh a lot more than dogs, but small children can get into trouble with caffeine or chocolate if they consume too much of it. Infants are especially vulnerable because they don't eliminate caffeine from the bloodstream nearly as quickly as adults.
dog
Power by xinh xinh