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10/18/12

Why chocolate poisons dogs and how to treat chocolate dog poisoning

While the pathetic begging look that goes across the face of a dog wanting chocolate can weaken the most stoic dog owner, stay firm. Do not give in. Ever.

Once dogs have tasted chocolate, they want more.

And for dogs, that's a bad thing.

You might disagree, thinking back to a time when you noticed a dog enjoying a tidbit of chocolate with no deleterious effect.

Don't be fooled.

The problem, according to veterinary experts, is that eating a speck of chocolate leads a dog to crave more. It can mean that your dog will jump at a opportunity to get any type of chocolate, not knowing that certain chocolates are more lethal than other types. Larger amounts of chocolate, particularly of the most toxic type, can bring about epileptic seizures in some dogs, and in all dogs, can kill.

Poisoning of dogs by chocolate is not as uncommon as you might think.

"Chocolate ingestions are one common reason why pet owners and veterinarians call us," said Dana Farbman, Certified Veterinary Technician and Manager, Client and Professional Relations, ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. "However, it would be difficult to verify an exact ranking in frequency of calls, as the types of substances we receive calls on can vary greatly depending on many factors, including the time of year. We generally do experience somewhat of a rise in chocolate calls around holidays, such as Halloween, Easter, Christmas, Valentine's Day and Mother's Day.

Why is Chocolate Lethal?

Chocolate contains theobromine. A naturally occurring stimulant found in the cocoa bean, theobromine increases urination and affects the central nervous system as well as heart muscle. While amounts vary by type of chocolate, it's the theobromine that is poisonous to dogs.

Symptoms of Chocolate Dog Ingestion and Poisoning

You can recognize that your dog has eaten a toxic dose of chocolate from the symptoms. Within the first few hours, the evidence includes vomiting, diarrhea or hyperactivity. As time passes and there's increased absorption of the toxic substance, you'll see an increase in the dog's heart rate, which can cause arrhythmia, restlessness, hyperactivity, muscle twitching, increased urination or excessive panting.

This can lead to hyperthermia, muscle tremors, seizures, coma and even death.

How Much Chocolate Is Deadly?

If a 50-pound dog eats a teaspoonful of milk chocolate, it's not going to cause serious problems. However, if that same dog gorges himself on a two-layer chocolate cake, his stomach will feel more than upset and soon it's likely he'll be vomiting or experiencing diarrhea.

To answer the question "How much is too much" is not simple. The health and age of your dog must be considered. Obviously if your dog is aged and not in top shape, his reaction to a plate of chocolate is going to be different from a young healthy dog of the same weight.

Another fact that must be considered is this: Not all chocolate is the same. Some has a small amount of theobromine; another type has a large amount and still another contains an amount that is somewhere in between. The quantity has a relationship with the weight of your dog. Small dogs can be poisoned, it is easy to understand, from smaller amounts of theobromine than large dogs.

Which chocolate is the safest, relatively speaking? White chocolate. It has the least amount of theobromine: 1 mg per ounce. Far on the other side of the spectrum is baking chocolate, which has a huge 450 mg of theobromine per ounce!

Here are a few other chocolates for you to ponder: hot chocolate, 12 mg of theobromine per ounce; milk chocolate, 60 mg/oz; and up there near baking chocolate: semi-sweet chocolate with 260 mg/oz.

You might try using this to remember these chocolates from least to most toxic: What Happy Moose Says BAA? Or: White-Hot-Milk-Semi-Baked. If you have a better way to remember, contact us!

Knowing which chocolate is the most toxic is important, but leaves one wondering how much must be eaten to poison a dog. The list in this box should be helpful. Maybe you can clip it and post it on your refrigerator? 
  • White chocolate: 200 ounces per pound of body weight. It takes 250 pounds of white chocolate to cause signs of poisoning in a 20-pound dog, 125 pounds for a 10-pound dog.
  • Milk chocolate: 1 ounce per pound of body weight. Approximately one pound of milk chocolate is poisonous to a 20-pound dog; one-half pound for a 10-pound dog. The average chocolate bar contains 2 to 3 ounces of milk chocolate. It would take 2-3 candy bars to poison a 10 pound dog. Semi-sweet chocolate has a similar toxic level.
  • Sweet cocoa: 0.3 ounces per pound of body weight. One-third of a pound of sweet cocoa is toxic to a 20-pound dog; 1/6 pound for a 10-pound dog.
  • Baking chocolate: 0.1 ounce per pound body weight. Two one-ounce squares of bakers' chocolate is toxic to a 20-pound dog; one ounce for a 10-pound dog.

Could eating chocolate really kill your dog?

Most dog owners go into a panic if their pet makes a lunge for the candy bowl — but is this worry really necessary?

Theobromine, a bitter chemical found in cocoa beans, is the molecule in chocolate tied to illnesses in canines. But how much theobromine is there in most chocolate? And how much theobromine would it take to kill household pets? It turns out, you might be more likely to die by chocolate than your dog.


Theobromine, the danger in chocolate

Structurally, theobromine is one methyl group away from caffeine, and the duo are often found together. When isolated, theobromine is a white, crystalline powderwith a bitter taste. The molecule is naturally found in cocoa beans, the main component of chocolate.

Physiologically, theobromine widens the blood vessels, causing a decrease in blood pressure. The molecule also acts as a diuretic, general cardiac stimulant, and in some cases, it alleviates asthma symptoms. Humans metabolize theobromine very quickly, much quicker than canines, and this is a part of the problem for man's best friend.

Cats lack the capacity to taste sweet foods (dog owners, feel free to use this fact in arguments of dog vs. cat superiority), leaving felines less susceptible to poisoning, since there's little reason to keep eating chocolate — without its sweet and/or bitter flavor, chocolate simply becomes a waxy solid.

How much theobromine is in chocolate?

Dogs dying from a theobromine overdose perish due to a combination of heart problems and respiratory failure. The amount of theorbromine necessary to kill one out of two members of the canine population (the LD50) is 300 milligrams per kilogram of body weight. Toy breeds like Yorkshire Terriers weigh around 3 kilograms, Cocker Spaniels weigh about 15 kilograms, while larger breeds like a Dalmation or St. Bernard weigh in at 25 and 90 kilograms, respectively.

Using this value of LD50, 900 milligrams of theobromine would kill your average Yorkshire Terrier, but is this a lot of chocolate? A single Hershey's Kiss contains 8 milligrams of theobromine — your tiny Yorkshire would need to consume well over 100 milk chocolate kisses before nearing death's door, an unlikely scenario. The considerable difference in weight between breeds also poses a problem here — what would kill a Cocker Spaniel would not even faze a St. Bernard.

Dark chocolate is the killer

As we move from milk chocolate to dark chocolate, the amount of theobromine increases, decreasing the quantity of chocolate your dog needs to eat before finding out if all dogs truly do go to heaven. The boutique Scharffen Berger 82% Cacao Extra Dark Chocolate contains 1100 milligrams per $3-4 bar - enough to easily meet the LD50 for a small 3 kilogram dog. A typical Cocker Spaniel would need to eat five of these large (129 gram) bars before death comes into the equation, quite a large amount of chocolate.

Could dark chocolate kill you?

Theobromine, in substantial quantities, can poison humans, with the elderly particularly sensitive to the molecule. The LD50 (amount of a molecule necessary to kill 50% of the population) for humans for theobromine is 1000 milligrams per kilogram, over three times that of a dog, but a very manageable number — especially when taking into account the human propensity for gluttony.

Looking at a range of human weights between 60 kilograms to 100 kilograms, consuming between 54 and 91 bars Scharffen Berger 82% Cacao Extra Dark Chocolate would allow an individual to reach the LD50 for humans. That's seven kilograms of chocolate for a person weighing 60 kilograms and 12 kilograms for someone weighing 100 kilograms. Eating 12% of your body weight in chocolate is an unusual way to shuffle off this mortal coil, but possible.

A phenomenal amount of milk chocolate is necessary to harm even smaller dogs. Thanks to the enormous amount of chocolate necessary to put your dog in danger, I would argue that you are more likely to die from a theorbromine overdose than your canine pal.

Dogs and Chocolate: Get the Facts

Most of us have heard that chocolate can make dogs sick. But how serious is the risk?

If your canine companion is more family member than pet, you may be in the habit of sharing the foods your family loves with him.

Although some people foods are fine in moderation, this is definitely not the case with chocolate.

Chocolate can sicken and even kill dogs, and it is one of the most common causes of caninepoisoning, veterinarians tell WebMD.

Veterinarian Michelle DeHaven says the worst case of chocolate poisoning she ever saw happened when some owners fed their eight-pound poodle a pound of chocolate on his birthday.

“We had to treat the dog with fluids and anti-seizure medication for five days," says DeHaven, who practices in Smyrna, Ga. "Every time we stopped the meds he would start seizuring again. You wouldn’t feed a kid a pound of chocolate, but they fed it to a small dog.”

No amount of chocolate is OK for your dog to consume. Dark chocolate and baker’s chocolate are riskiest; milk and white chocolate pose a much less serious risk.

What Makes Chocolate Poisonous to Dogs?

Chocolate is made from cocoa, and cocoa beans contain caffeine and a related chemical compound called theobromine, which is the real danger.

The problem is that dogs metabolize theobromine much more slowly than humans, Denver veterinarian Kevin Fitzgerald, PhD, tells WebMD.

“The buzz we get from eating chocolate may last 20 to 40 minutes, but for dogs it lasts many hours,” he says. “After 17 hours, half of the theobromine a dog has ingested is still in the system.”

Theobromine is also toxic to cats, but there are very few reported cases of theobromine poisoning in felines because they rarely eat chocolate.

Dogs, on the other hand, will eat just about anything.

Even small amounts of chocolate can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. Truly toxic amounts can induce hyperactivity, tremors, high blood pressure, a rapid heart rate, seizures, respiratory failure, and cardiac arrest.

Dogs and Chocolate: How Much is Too Much?

The more theobromine a cocoa product contains, the more poisonous it is to your dog.

Unsweetened baker's chocolate contains about 390 milligrams of theobromine per ounce -- about 10 times more than milk chocolate and more than twice as much as semi-sweet chocolate. White chocolate contains very little theobromine.

According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, one ounce of milk chocolate per pound of body weight is potentially lethal.

But the real danger lies with dark chocolate. Merck warns that deaths have been reported with theobromine doses as low as 115 milligrams per kilogram (2.2 pounds) of body weight.

So 20 ounces of milk chocolate, 10 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate, and just 2.25 ounces of baking chocolate could potentially kill a 22-pound dog, Fitzgerald says.

Serious toxic reactions can occur with ingestion of about 100 to 150 milligrams of theobromine per kilogram of body weight.

That means:
  • A 9-pound dog could be expected to show symptoms of chocolate toxicity after eating 1 ounce of baking chocolate, 3 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate, or 9 ounces of milk chocolate.
  • A 27-pound dog might have such symptoms after eating 3 ounces of baking chocolate, 9 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate, and 27 ounces of milk chocolate.
  • A 63-pound dog might exhibit symptoms after eating 7 ounces of baking chocolate, 21 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate, or 63 ounces of milk chocolate.
“In 27 years of practice, I’ve seen two dogs die from eating chocolate,” says Fitzgerald, who appears regularly on Animal Planet’s hit show Emergency Vets. “Both were under 20 pounds, both were elderly and both ate baking chocolate in very large amounts.”

Although most people would not eat a 4-ounce bar of bitter-tasting baking chocolate, this is not true of dogs, he says.

“Dogs experience the world through tasting it, and they are gorgers,” he says. “Baking chocolate tastes good to them.”

Your Dog Ate Chocolate: Now What?

DeHaven, who owns Cumberland Animal Clinic in Smyrna, says she typically gets two to three calls a month from owners whose dogs have eaten chocolate.

When an owner calls, she asks how much and what kind of chocolate the dog has eaten and the dog’s weight.

“If a 60-pound golden retriever eats a bag of Hershey’s kisses, there isn’t too much to worry about,” she says. “The dog will probably have a stomachache, but not much else.”

After eating a potentially toxic dose of chocolate, dogs typically develop diarrhea and start vomiting.

If the dog isn't vomiting on its own, the vet may advise inducing vomiting immediately to keep as much theobromine as possible from entering the system.

One method is giving the dog a one-to-one solution of hydrogen peroxide and water. But DeHaven says that treatment is now discouraged because it can cause esophageal ulcers.

She recommends syrup of ipecac, which induces vomiting.

When a dog shows signs of hyperactivity and agitation or is having seizures, the faster you get it to the vet the better. But there is no specific antidote for chocolate poisoning.

Usually, after vomiting is induced, activated charcoal is given to help prevent the absorption of the remaining toxins. Fluids are typically given along with intravenous drugs to limit seizures and protect the heart.

Symptoms of theobromine poisoning generally occur within four to 24 hours after chocolate is consumed.

Cocoa Shell Mulch: A Little-Known Danger

Most people don’t realize it, but those increasingly popular cocoa shell mulches used for landscaping can also pose a serious risk to dogs in the same way that chocolate does.

Terry and Dawn Hall found out the hard way several years ago when their beloved 105-pound chocolate lab ‘Moose’ died after eating just eight ounces of cocoa shell mulch used to landscape their Minneapolis yard.

The death prompted the couple to contact Minnesota state senator Scott Dibble, who sponsored a bill to require cocoa mulch sellers to warn customers of the potential danger to dogs. His bill was approved by the Legislature, but vetoed by the governor.

“It is my understanding that theobromine can be removed from cocoa mulch pretty easily, and that some manufacturers do this and others do not,” Dibble tells WebMD. “But right now there is no way for the consumer to know if the mulch they are buying has been treated.”

Nasal Discharge, Sneezing and Nosebleeds in Dogs

A runny nose indicates an irritant in the nasal passages. Because irritants also produce sneezing, these two signs tend to occur together.

Excited and nervous dogs often secrete a clear, watery mucus that drips from the nose. This type of discharge is not accompanied by sneezing and disappears when the dog relaxes.

Any nasal discharge that persists for several hours is significant. A clear, watery dischargeis typical of allergic and viral rhinitis, while a thick discharge suggests a bacterial or fungal infection. A nasal discharge accompanied bygagging and retching indicates a postnasal drip. A discharge from one nostril only is seen with oral nasal fistulas and foreign bodies and tumors in the nose.

Foreign bodies, tumors, and chronic bacterial and fungal infections can erode the mucous membranes and produce a blood-streaked mucus discharge or a nosebleed. Nosebleeds also occur with bleeding disorders such as von Willebrand’s disease and hemophilia. Trauma, such as banging the nose, may also lead to some bloody discharge. If you see blood in the nasal discharge, notify your veterinarian.

Human cold viruses don’t affect dogs. However, dogs are afflicted by a number of serious respiratory diseases that initially produce symptoms similar to those of the human cold. A runny nose, along with an eye discharge and coughing and sneezing, is an indication that you should seek veterinary attention for your dog. A yellowish discharge along with coughing and fever could indicate canine influenza and you should contact your veterinarian immediately.

Sneezing

Sneezing is an important early sign of nasal irritation. Occasional sneezing is normal, but if the sneezing is violent, uninterrupted, or accompanied by a nasal discharge, it’s a serious condition and you should consult your veterinarian. Some dogs will sneeze if your house has a new carpet or new cleaning agents are used. Perfumes, cigarette smoke, hairspray, and even scented candles may cause your dog to sneeze.

Sneezing with a watery nasal discharge and rubbing the face with the paws is typical of canine atopy. A sudden bout of violent sneezing, along with head shaking and pawing at the nose, suggests a foreign body in the nose. Nosebleeds can occur after particularly violent bouts of sneezing.

Prolonged sneezing causes swelling and congestion of the nasal membranes. The result is a sniffling or noisy character to the dog’s breathing.

Nosebleeds

Nosebleeds are caused by foreign bodies, trauma, infections, tumors, or parasites that erode the nasal mucous membranes. Some are caused by lacerations of the nostrils or puncture wounds from objects such as thorns or barbed wire. Nosebleeds are often accompanied by bouts of sneezing that aggravate the bleeding.

A spontaneous nosebleed may be a manifestation of a generalized clotting disorder such as hemophilia or von Willebrand’s disease. Vitamin K deficiency is another cause of spontaneous bleeding. It occurs most often with poisoning by rodenticide anticoagulants.

Treatment: Keep the dog as quiet as possible. Apply an ice pack wrapped in cloth to the bridge of the nose. If the nostril is bleeding and the bleeding site is visible, apply steady pressure with a gauze square.

Most nosebleeds subside rather quickly when interference is kept to a minimum. If the bleeding does not stop, or if there is no obvious cause, take your dog at once to the veterinary clinic.

Mouth Breathing

Dogs are nose breathers and usually do not breathe through their mouths except when panting. Mouth breathing indicates that both nasal air passages are blocked. In these dogs, no air is moving through the nose-only through the mouth. This may not be obvious until the dog becomes excited or begins to exercise.

Sneezing And Upper Respiratory Tract Problems In Dogs And Cats

Lots of my articles are plagiarized and altered on the web to market products and services. There are never ads running or anything for sale with my real articles - other than my time. 

Pets and people usually sneeze for one of two reasons: Either the membranes that line their nose are inflamed or a foreign material of some sort is present in their nostrils.

Nasal membranes become inflamed if your pet was exposed to an irritant or when it has contracted an upper respiratory tract infection.

When young dogs sneeze, it is usually due to an upper respiratory tract infection. When young cats sneeze, several common upper respiratory tract pathogens are often involved. When middle aged cats sneeze, it is usually due to the Herpes 1 virus of cats. When older pets develop sneezing problems, the causes are more varied. When older pets also experience drainage from only one nostril, nasal polyps and intra-nasal tumors are often the cause.

Infectious Rhinitis or Sneezing

Most of the sneezing dog that veterinarians examine have contracted an upper respiratory tract infections. Often, the only symptom of these mild infections is the sneezing. Pets commonly get exposed to these organisms at grooming salons, doggy parks and kennels. In people, we would call it a cold and it moves from person to person in the same way. Dogs and cats invariably sniff new objects so the chances of them becoming infected are far greater. These pet “colds” are caused by airborne virus and bacteria. The virus that cause them do not jump from dogs to cats or vice-versa, but the bacteria involved do.

One particular virus of cats that is often the root cause of sneezing is the feline herpes 1 virus (FHV1, rhinotrachitis). You can read more about that virus here.

The two common "cold" viruses of dogs are the Parainfluenza virus and the Type-2 Adenovirus. Both can cause "Kennel Cough signs", both are highly infectious and are both passed by sneezes from other sick dogs or from dogs that silently carry the infection. It is very common for the owners of sneezing pets to tell me that their pet was boarded, groomed or exposed to neighboring pets or a doggy park within the past two week or so. Pets that were recently obtained from animal shelters are also very likely to develop these problems. You can have your dog vaccinated against kennel cough. But these vaccines only reduce the severity of your pet's symptoms - they usually do not prevent infection. 

Very young and very old pets are more at risk. This is because the immune system of young animals is not fully developed. Once the transient immunity that was passed on to these youngsters from their mother subsides, they are susceptible to these organisms until they develop immunity of their own. Older pets may have age-related changes of the nasal membranes that make infections worse and their immune systems may not be as vigorous as they once were. These chronic changes are more common in smush-faced dogs and cats whose nasal passages are narrower than ordinary dogs and cats.

Bacteria and mycoplasma alone can cause sneezing. Both cats and dogs are susceptible to bacterial upper respiratory tract infections caused by Pasteurella, Bordetella, Streptococci, Chlamydia, mycoplasma and pseudomonad bacteria. Alone or combined with the Adeno-2 virus, they are the causes of kennel cough. Many of these respiratory bacteria are not particular about whose nose or eyes they irritate and have been known to cause similar problems in humans.

Some recovered pets silently carry these bacteria and virus in their system. Although these pets appear perfectly healthy, they can spread the infections to any animals that they come in contact with.

Next to the herpes 1 virus , Calicivirus, Chlamydia and mycoplasma are the most common cause of sneezing cats. Although sneezing may be the only sign of infection, most cats also have conjunctivitis (inflamed eye membranes) and some even run a low-grade fever and feel under the weather. Again, many healthy pets harbor these viruses and bacteria and spread them. (When sneezing begins In a household of pets, it is quite rare for more than one or two to show any signs; although all were exposed.)

The herpes1/rhinotracheitis virus is the cause of over two-thirds of the sneezing cats most veterinarians see in their practices. The incubation period after exposure to this virus is about 2-6 days. Relapses are common and cats that harbor this virus are usually infected for life. Only a few of them, however, ever show signs of this virus again. But much like the cold sore virus of humans, stress of any sort will cause a few cats to resume shedding the virus and show nasal signs, ocular (eye) signs or both. It is the bane (annoyance) of cateries and animal shelters alike. Sneezing usually subsides 5-10 days after it begins.

A recent article in the AVMA Journal compared the effectiveness of several antibiotics in combating this problem in shelter cats. Daily ammoxicillin-clavulanic acid (Augmentin) or Doxycycline were more effective than a 14-day cefovacin (Convenia) injection.

What Are Some Noninfectious Causes of Sneezing ?

Household irritants

The same household products that cause you to sneeze can cause you pet to sneeze. The most common culprit for cats is dusty cat litter containing small spicules (sharp crystals) of silica. Perfumes, cigarette smoke, household cleaners, fiberglass, bug spray and deodorants are only a few of the products that can cause your pet to sneeze.

Allergies

Although most pet allergies cause itching or wheezing, some pets sneeze due to pollens and mold in the air. If the problem occurs only seasonally, antihistamines might be of help. However, inhalant allergies in dogs and cats are much more likely to cause generalized itching and food allergies, when they occur, generally cause diarrhea.

Foreign Bodies

It is not uncommon for pets to poke their nose into grassy or dusty areas and come away with a small portion of grass or seedpods lodges in their nostril. Any nasal drainage of this sort will be confined to the side that has the object. Most pets eventually sneeze these objects out but some of them must be physically removed. These lodged objects will also cause drainage from the affected side of their nose.

When this occurs in older dogs and cat, the cause is usually different. These older pets are subject to nasal polyps, tumors and degenerative changes in their airways. As with foreign objects, the problem is usually confined to one nostril.

Tooth Abscesses

In both dogs and cats the third upper premolar tooth has roots that penetrate close to the nasal passages. If this tooth, or the ones adjacent to it, becomes infected, sneezing and nasal drainage may occur. 

Breed Characteristics

Certain breeds of dogs and cats have compressed nasal passages due to the shape of their head. These are called bracheocephalic breeds. Persian cats and other cats with a flat face are more likely to sneeze due to infection or irritating products and to sneeze longer. Any of the dogs breed that snore (Pekingese, pugs, bulldogs, Lhasa Apsos, Shia Tzu etc.) share this problem.

What Treatments Might Help ?

Veterinarians try to prevent upper respiratory tract infections in dogs and cats by vaccinating against the organisms that are commonly involved. However, most cats have already acquired the herpes 1 virus before their first kitten-hood vaccination and vaccine immunity to most upper-respiratory pathogens in dogs and cats is short-lived. So keeping your pets isolated from infected and carrier animals or places where they frequent is a much better approach. (That goes for crowded veterinary waiting rooms and vaccination clinics as well)

There is a joke among veterinarians that sneezing left untreated lasts all of 2 weeks; but if properly treated it passes in 14 days. This has a basis in fact and sneezing pets rarely warrant antibiotics. But it is not always so - sometimes sneezing the only the first sign of a more serious respiratory tract infection. This is particularly so when your pet's activity level and appetite are diminished.

One helpful way to tell if the problem is minor or more major is to take your pet’s temperature with a rectal thermometer. (Don’t bother to see if its nose is warm or cold – that never works) If the pet's temperature or its appetite, respiratory rate or activity level has changed significantly, just bring the pet in to your vet to be examined.

The normal temperature of a cats and dogs is about 101.5 - 102.5F (38.6- 39C) If the pet's temperature is over 102.7 it might indicate that the problem will develop into a more serious respiratory tract infection. In that case, antibiotics and other treatment could shorten its period of illness. Otherwise, rest, a comfortable environment and good nutrition will probably be sufficient. Feed your pets savory and strong aroma foods during periods of nasal congestion because their appetite depends on their ability to smell of food and that ability may be diminished.

If its nostrils become raw and inflamed, a bland ophthalmic ointment and frequent cleaning of the nose with warm, wet plegets of cotton might be all that is required.

When Herpes1/Rhinotracheitis virus is the cause of the sneezing in cats, it is difficult to permanently cure them. When this disease attacks cats repeatedly when it re-emerges from the pet's nervous system where it lays dormant. It sometimes causes irreversible erosions and changes in linings of the nasal passages (naso-turbinate bones) that can be helped but never entirely cured. As I mentioned , this virus persists in cats throughout their lifetime - but usually in a dormant form similar to shingles in humans . Low stress, good nutrition, vitamin A and antibiotics to combat secondary bacterial infections usually cause the disease to go back into remission.

If that treatment does not cure the cat's sneezing in a few weeks, Medications like trifluridine (Viroptic) or idoxuridine ophthalmic drops administered in their nose up to four times a day sometimes will. Steam administration, nebulization, or taking the pet with you into a hot shower area (don't get it wet) will helps cleanse its nose of exudates and open its nasal passages. Some veterinarians give acyclovir but I have not found it much help.

The amino acid, l-lysine, seems to help many cases of herpes1/rhinotracheitis resolve. This amino acid is thought to reduce the amount of another amino acid, arginine, that is present in the cat's body. Arginine is thought to be necessary for herpesvirus to reproduce. The suggested lysine dose is 250-500 mg per day sprinkled on canned cat food. Some give this supplement until the acute flare-up has resolved. But many cat owners continue the supplement indefinitely. Lysine can be purchased at health food stores. Pick a brand that is propylene glycol-free.

Sometimes, nasal corticosteroid spray (such as Nasocort) are helpful to dogs and cats with chronic nasal problems that lead to sneezing (chronic rhinitis). Placing a few drops of an ophthalmic or nasal saline rinse into the pet's nostrils three times a day might also help if your pet will put up with that. Some owners find antihistamines like Benadryl (diphenhydramine) help. (Remember to only give pets doses that are appropriate for there weight)

Foreign bodies that have lodged in the nose require different treatment. With time, the drainage from such objects becomes thick and yellow-greenish in color. The drainage is sometimes pinkish with blood.

It is very difficult for veterinarians to see into the nasal passages of small dogs and cats. X-rays often do not visualize small objects or tumors - CAT scans and MRI's are somewhat better. An instrument called a nasal endoscope will sometimes allow veterinarians to look into the pet's nasal passages - but it is most successful in larger animals. When one is lucky, objects can be grasped with an alligator forceps and remove or tissue biopsies can be removed for study. More commonly veterinarians dispense antibiotic drops and nasal saline drops to the affected nostril and hope the pet will sneeze any foreign object out with time. When that isn't successful, the object can sometimes be flushed out with a catheter under anesthesia. When the problem turns out to be a tumor, surgery is complicated, disfiguring and rarely curative. These pets do have a chemotherapy/radiation option.

I am always most concern when I encounter one-sided drainage in older dogs and cats that persists beyond a week or two. Most do turn out to have a tumor growing within the nasal passages and most of these tumors are malignant. They are often adenocarcinomas. But because of their location, it is very difficult to obtain a portion of these masses for pathological examination.

Are There New Options To Determine The Infectious Causes Of Sneezing and URIs ?

Yes,

Within the last few years, veterinarians have been given a tremendous tool for sorting out the various bacteria and virus that cause chronic sneezing in pets. These are the Real Time Polymerase Chain Reaction Tests (RT-PCR) that identify minute amounts of pathogen genetic material without having to grow the organisms in the laboratory. One of my favorite is the Taqman lab at UC Davis. They use RT-PCR to look for six of the most common causes of upper respiratory, nasal and/or chronic eye problems in cats (bordatella, chlamydia, calicivirus, herpes 1,influenza and mycoplasma). Similar panels are available for dogs. If your kitty has persistent sneezing, some of these organisms are not the likely cause; but the panels often test for all of them. The test's limitation is that the most common cause of sneezing, the Herpes-1 virus, is so stealthy that it can avoid detection with the PCR test when the cat is not experiencing a virus flare-up. So if the PCR test is positive for herpes-1, your cat is definitely a carrier of this virus. But if it is negative, the virus might still be sleeping somewhere deep in the cat's nerve cells. It is best run during a flare-up.

My Dog is Sneezing

A sneeze here and there is a normal event in a dog's life. You and I probably feel like it's a good thing to sneeze once in a while. Repeated sneezing, however, is not normal and may indicate a serious problem. If it goes on for too long, it may even lead to bleeding, and the sneezing will then turn into a bloody spray. If your dog is sneezing more than you think is normal, there are a few things you can do in order to get a better idea how serious it is.

What to Look For

Start your assessment by offering your dog a drink of water. Occasionally a drink alone will clear the oronasal passage of some irritant and resolve the sneezing. Next, look your dog straight in the eye and get an idea if there are any asymmetries of his eyes, face, or muzzle. If you have some sort of protective face- and eyewear, use it to prevent getting oral or ocular exposure to your dog's nasal discharge. Listen carefully to your dog's breathing in between the sneezing episodes. Try blocking first one nostril, then the other, to determine whether there is any form of partial or complete obstruction in either of the nasal passages. Use your flashlight and try to get a look into each of your dog's nasal openings.


What to Do

Ask yourself a few questions to figure out what to do next:
  • Does your dog suffer from allergies? Respiratory allergies are often the cause for seasonal bouts of episodic sneezing.
If your dog has allergies to various seasonal plants or pollens, this may explain the sneezing and your dog may respond well to an antihistamine such as Tavist, Claritin, or even Benadryl. In general, check with your vet for dosage and to confirm that your dog has no specific additional health risks that would prevent you from using them safely.
  • Has your dog been outside and/or unsupervised for any period of time recently? Inquisitive dogs are prone to sniffing new and interesting plants, objects, and substances, some of them dangerous. Any of these things can be inhaled, resulting in partial or complete obstruction of a nasal passage, pain, inflammation, and the resultant sneezing. Sometimes, even after one of these is evacuated, the irritation it has caused will promote continued sneezing episodes. A bee sting is a perfect example and one that can continue to get worse with time if left untreated. If at any time during your evaluation of your dog's sneezing, the symptoms worsen, get him to your vet immediately.
  • Did you see any swelling or asymmetry to your dog's face? Blunt trauma and insect bites or stings are common causes of facial swelling associated with sneezing. If blunt trauma is suspected, get him to your vet. If an insect bite or sting is your suspicion, as long as his breathing is not labored or wheezy, a dose of Benadryl may reduce the swelling and could even solve the problem.
  • Does there appear to be any sign of infection? Any yellow to green discharge from the nostrils, eyes, or mouth could explain the sneezing and point you toward your veterinarian for medical treatment.
  • Did you see any bleeding from your dog's nostrils? Though it is possible that repeated sneezing will traumatize your dog's nasal passages enough to cause bleeding, any blood from his nostrils is enough to merit a visit with his veterinarian.
  • Does the airflow through your dog's nostrils seem difficult or uneven?Nasal inflammation or obstruction will result in difficulty passing air through those openings. If this is the case, and the use of over- the-counter antihistamines like Benadryl, Tavist, or Claritin results in no improvement, seek your veterinarian's help.

How to Make Your Dog Like Your Cat

It's a classic tale that dogs have always hated cats, and vise versa. With lots of training and positive reinforcement you can do get them to like each other.

Steps

1 Basic tricks. Teach your dog "Uh-uh".Whenever they do something bad, wrong, or don't do something you say,say "Uh-uh" and they should stop. Now, teach them "Leave it". Say "Leave it" if your dog is sniffing something they shouldn't, or you drop food on the floor and they try to eat it, etc. They should look or walk away. Also, teach them "Stay". This one should be a bit harder to teach. After you say "Stay", they should stay where they are even if you disappear from view. The last command they need to know is "Come" (if they already come when you say their name, you can skip this part). Your dog should simply walk to you when they hear "Come". Be sure to practice these daily and when they do something correct, give them a treat and lots of love and praise. This is key.

2 Watch your pets. Leave them in the same room alone but still under close eye. Do this every couple days and record results. They should like each other more.Any other results than the following I don't know what to do about. Here are some possible outcomes and what to do about them:
  • If the dog goes towards the cat and the cat seems uncomfortable, then say "Leave it" to your dog. If your dog does not walk or look away, say "Uh-uh" until they do. Then say "Come" and give praise/treat. This reaction means that your pets do not really like each other but it is possible to fix.
  • If your dog walks up to the cat and the cat seems fine or is ignoring the dog, you may my not even need to read the rest of this. Your pets like each other. Give BOTH pets lots of praise.
  • If your dog leaves your cat alone, again, you may not even need to read the rest of this. Your pets do not hate each other and do not like each other either. This is good. Give BOTH pets lots of praise.
3 Talk with your cat. Get your cat alone and make sure the dog, any other people, or any other pets are not around. A good time to talk is during feeding time. Tell your cat it will be okay,that you love them and that you ARE working with the dog and making progress. Reassure them. Love them. Do this weekly and even though it may seem silly, it does work.

4 Don't pick favorites. Whenever you are hugging one pet, make sure the other is not near. Or if they are, when you are done go hug them. Also,when you walk into a room and both pets are there, look at them BOTH, and go to the cat as equally as you go to the dog.This is because when you have one pet and bring a new pet into the family, often the first pet may get jealous. Don't let this happen.

5 Extra help. By now, your cat and dog should be pretty good with each other. If not, there is one more thing I suggest. Put your cat on the floor where they are happy and put the collar on your dog. Put several dog treats in your pocket and have several cat treats nearby.grab hold of the collar and walk slowly past the cat. Keep the animals around 5 or 6 feet apart. If your pets do well, give the dog a treat. If not, say "Uh-uh". Every time they do good, move them a 1/2 foot closer, until they are within a foot. give the cats most of the cat treats and the dog a couple of the leftover dog treats.

Top 3 Dog-Like Cat Breeds



When Dogs Just Aren't Allowed

Cats acting like dogs? It happens, and it most certainly does not mean the end is near. Oh, and by acting like dogs we do not mean barking (that would just be plain silly), but some breeds do have dog-like qualities. Here are three of our most favorite dog-like cat breeds.


#3 The Manx



Famous for being tailless, the Manx, in fact, is not always tailless! It is, however, known to be very affectionate and friendly. Many people call the Manx a "dog-cat” because it wants to be around people. It will even come when you whistle or call his or her name, and will actually respond to the command “no,” unlike other cats that simply sit there and stare.


#2 The Abyssinian





Another water-loving cat, this extremely loyal feline will play fetch and carry its favorite toys around in its mouth, just like a dog. And like dogs, the Abyssinian will follow their humans around, help out (whether you want it to or not), and respond to leash training, too. However, as with dogs, they need a lot of attention and will become depressed if left alone often.

#1 The Burmese



The Burmese is not only a beautiful cat, but one that has decidedly doggy-like qualities. It is great with kids and will play with them happily. The Burmese is also known to sit and wait for food in the same manner that dogs do. Just make sure this kitty has a sitter if you are going away for a few days. The Burmese is extremely dependent on its owners.

Resident develops new breed of dog-like cat - the puppykat

LAKE ELSINORE -- It's not a dog; it's a cat that acts like a dog. Confused? Don't be. It's a "puppykat," a new breed of cat developed by Lake Elsinore resident Dawn Houston.

Houston says she stumbled across the puppykat seven years ago, when two wild cats she had rescued mated. Their offspring were very puppylike, she said, so she gave them the new moniker and began breeding more of them.

Three years ago, she said, she began breeding them full time.

Houston, who said she has rescued animals most of her life, has big plans for the puppykat.

Already, she has registered the breed with the Rare and Exotic Feline Registry.

And she plans to continue to breed and sell puppykats -- she guesses she has already sold more than 40 of them in the last seven years for between $275 and $675 -- so that she can raise enough money to fund future cat-rescue efforts. Those efforts include plans for responsible breeding education programs and plans to get lax breeding regulations changed.

The puppykat, Houston said, has become popular with people who like their pets to have certain traits more commonly found in dogs. Like their canine counterparts, puppykats are more social, curious and playful, she said. They'll even come when you call.

Their physical traits -- mainly their folded ears and shorter tails -- are also doglike.

"A lot of people that would have never gotten a cat are now open to owning a cat," Houston said.

Kent Broussard bought two cats from Houston about a year ago. One of them was a Manx, the other was a puppykat.

He said that, while the Manx is standoffish and tends be content on its own, the puppykat craves the attention of humans and is much more playful.

"She just has to be around people," the Laguna Beach resident said. "She loves being petted. She's a little sweetie.

"She definitely follows you in the other room like a puppy. That's a perfect name."

While the results may be adorable and Houston may have found a market for the puppykat, her breeding hasn't been received positively by everybody.

Breeders and cat lovers from across the country have sent dozens of e-mails and letters criticizing her for mixing the Scottish fold, Manx and polydactyl breeds, something they consider dangerous to the health of the cats.

But Houston asserts she's being responsible.

She takes great care to make sure the cats she uses in breeding don't carry the same dominant genes, she said, thus eliminating potential dangerous genetic threats to the cats.

Plus, she isn't doing what many breeders do, Houston said, in overbreeding their cats by inbreeding or by making individual cats have too many litters. Those can each have detrimental effects on generations and generations of cats, she said.

"If you do it wrong, it could be traumatic," Houston said.

Houston also shot back at the animal rights organization People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, whose members have heavily criticized her the last several weeks after reading a news report about her breeding. They have sent dozens of e-mails and letters, she said, many of which have been less than pleasant.

PETA researcher Dan Paden said that his organization was contacted by more than 100 people who complained that, through her breeding, Houston is contributing to the overpopulation of cats.

The organization issued an action alert through its Web site, he said, asking people to contact Houston and ask her to stop the breeding. It also urged them to ask her to donate the money she has made through selling puppykats to spaying and neutering programs.

The alert calls Houston's plan of breeding puppykats in an effort to help rescue other cats the "most dim-witted idea ever." It states that breeders like Houston "have created a tremendous overpopulation problem that forces animal shelters across the nation to put millions of dogs and cats to death every year."

Paden said PETA has never before issued an action alert for a breeder like Houston.

"No one before has ever proposed that purposefully breeding animals is a good way to help fight the overpopulation crisis," he said. "It's unique in its irony. It's unique in our response."

But Houston said that those who have accused her of contributing to the overpopulation problem don't know what they're talking about.

There will always be people out there, she said, who prefer to buy cats from professional breeders instead of shelters. That market will always exist, she said.

More importantly, Houston said, every cat she sells is spayed or neutered before it is released to its new owner.

All the fuss raised over her puppykat breeding is much ado about nothing, she said.

"I know what I'm doing," Houston said.

What Dog Breed is Right for Me

Selecting the right breed of dog for your family is simple when you break it down. While almost any dog can be trained to fit into a household, it makes the assimilation process easier if you consider some issues beforehand and choose a breed accordingly.

Several criteria are addressed below and examples of dog breeds given but, remember, choosing a dog is also somewhat of a love affair and if you fell in love with a Chihuahua even though you're a big, husky guy, go for it!

Space

The easiest issue to consider when you're choosing the right breed is space. Do you live in an apartment? Do you have a backyard? Do you have access to outside walks?

If you live in the country or suburbs and have a fenced-in backyard, almost any breed of puppy will work. In a small space, such as an apartment, something like the Bichon is a good choice. But some bigger dogs are excellent for this, too, including the Greyhound.

The main thing for keeping ANY dog healthy is giving them enough exercise.

Activity Level

In conjunction with space limitations, you should consider the activity level of the breed you get. An elderly person would be poorly matched with an Irish Setter, while someone active might be disappointed with a Papillion.

Terriers have that tenacious, speedy gene that keeps them on the move. Many guard dogs, such as the Neapolitan Mastiff are low-key because they're only expected to be "on" in the presence of an intruder.

Temperament

Dogs are as different in personality as people are. Some are extroverted, some are introverts. Some listen well, others prefer to lead.

In general, you'll find that Terriers are tenacious, friendly, trainable, and good with kids. They work well with someone who wants a constant companion who likes to run around in circles.

The Bully dogs, such as the American Staffordshire Terrier and the Pit Bull, also make great companions but their owners should be prepared for dog aggression.

The Northern breeds tend to be loyal, reserved and intelligent. They are fine with children but not usually playful. Guardian dogs are only fairly recently house dogs. Despite that, many are very affectionate toward their family, but are wary with strangers. They tend to be good with kids and ignore all other dogs.

The Border Collie is usually what is thought of first in the Herding group. They are friendly, sweet, intelligent, and highly trainable. Usually good with other dogs, they are also good with children when supervised.

Hounds are laid-back creatures who croon at the moon. They are slow when not in pursuit of something, and are good-natured. They tend to be great with children and other dogs and have a tendency to be goofy.

Companion dogs tend to be small and cuddly. They tend to be sweet and affectionate with people (including children), alert, and stubborn. A few are better off in adult-only households.
Some Dogs That Are NOT Usually Good With Children:
  • Chihuahua
  • Akita
  • Pekinese
Some Dogs That Are Easy-Going And Adaptable:
  • Mastiff
  • Lab
  • Great Dane
Some Dogs That Are Usually Dignified And Reserved:
  • Siberian Husky
  • Greyhound(though you do occasionally meet a clown of a Greyhound)
  • Sharpei
Size

Some people are nervous of big dogs. Some people don't consider little dogs canines at all. Consider a few things when you look at size: can I control this dog out walking if an incident occurs, can this dog handle family rough-housing, and how much space do I have?

Some Little Dogs:
  • Parson's Terrier
  • Boston Terrier
  • French Bulldog

Some Medium Dogs:
  • Beagle
  • Staffordshire Bull Terrier
  • Cocker Spaniel
Some Large Dogs:
  • Doberman Pinscher
  • Golden Retriever
  • Dalmatian

When looking at breeds, look at temperament and activity level first. It's nice if your dog immediately fits into your lifestyle. But, if you find, that you got a Cairn Terrier when a Pug would have been better, don't worry. With training and patience, it's possible to make almost any kind of dog a good member of your family.

Dog Fear of Water

Some dogs, and specific breeds of dogs, love to swim and frolic in the water. Yet other dogs are so terrified of water that any exposure to water causes extreme reactions. Why do dogs fear water? There are a number of different causes that can contribute to a fear of water, and a patient and understanding owner will be able to work with their dog to slowly overcome this fear.

Introduction

Some dogs, and specific breeds of dogs, love to swim and frolic in the water. Yet other dogs are so terrified of water that any exposure to water causes extreme reactions. Why do dogs fear water? There are a number of different causes that can contribute to a fear of water, and a patient and understanding owner will be able to work with their dog to slowly overcome this fear.

Why Some Dogs Fear Water

Many dogs that have an overwhelming fear of water suffer from anxiety and extreme sensitivity. Dogs have a very complex psychological mind, and just like people they can suffer from unreasonable fears due to anxiety. This type of anxiety can be inherited from their parents, it can develop from abuse, or it can just occur as a result of extremely sensitive emotions.

Some dogs develop a fear of water due to a bad experience with water in the past. Perhaps as a puppy they almost drowned; maybe they had a previous owner who used to douse them in water as a punishment, or maybe they found themselves in a situation where they were unable to get out of water. At some point in their lives, these dogs experienced something which made them associate water with something bad; as a result they develop a terrifying fear of water.

Other dogs develop a fear of water because they have lost their trust in people. Perhaps they were abused in the past; even if this abuse did not include water, the abuse was severe enough to make them fear all people. Dogs that have been severely abused are often frightened of water, and they will need time to overcome this fear and learn to trust their owner.

You may never find out why your dog suffers from this fear, but through patience, plenty of praise and encouragement, and developing a strong bond of trust you will be able to help your dog overcome this fear.

Training Tips

The process of helping your dog overcome fear of water needs to be taken in baby steps. Begin by exposing your dog to very small amounts of water. Choose a time when your dog is relaxed and happy. Carry a small bowl of water over to your dog, sit next to your dog, and start rubbing your dog’s stomach and softly saying words of encouragement. Slowly dip one hand into the water, let the dog sniff that hand, and then start to slowly wet the dog with the water. Throughout this process continually dip your hand in the water, let the dog smell your hand, and then run your hand over your dog. Repeat this process once a day for a number of days in a row. When you are finished, give your dog a treat.

Once your dog is use to a small sponge bath, slowly start to drip the water on your dog. Increase the amount of water you put on your dog over time, begin to make splashing noises in the bowl, and keep up the encouragement, praise, and treat rewards.

During bath times try to keep the volume levels down, and make sure you have everything ready before you begin the bath. During your dog’s bath give your dog lots of encouragement, praise, and an occasional favorite treat. Try to turn bath times into a fun game and your dog will slowly begin to associate water with affection, fun, and rewards.

Train a Dog Not to Afraid of Swimming

Most dogs love swimming, especially if they can do it together with their owner. However, quite typical is the story when you come to a lake (or wherever you swim) just to find out your dog is afraid of the water.

Should you accept your dog won’t be a diving champion or should you try to create an interest of swimming in him?

It’s not a simple question to answer in a website as every case must be examined separately.

The levels of stress in dogs vary in a large amplitude. If your dog is afraid a lot, think twice if you need to expose your dog to a large stress for swimming. Maybe it’s not worth it? Do you have a reason for your dog to swim good enough to outweigh the effort? Only you can answer this question, sorry. I won’t help you here.

Don’t push your dog into water
If you take a decision that you should give it a try, number one rule to remember is: “Don’t push!” Throwing a dog into water won’t help. It’ll just make the fear even larger, and your dog might never accept swimming as a pleasant activity.
  • Go to a place with shallow water. This will make it possible to play in water without the hardest part – swimming.
  • Observe how close to water your dog is willing to come. No matter if he likes to get his feet wet of if he feels safe only on a shore, you must note the border, your dog is not crossing. And most importantly – you should respect this border, for now.
  • If your dog feels comfortable on shore, start playing there. Use toys, treats, praises. Run with him without crossing the safe border, perform some training commands. In two words: “Have fun!”
  • After some time, you might try to come near the water or even enter it. Do it seamlessly without getting too much attention to your dog.
  • If your dog is not following, you may try to encourage him. Show a treat or throw a toy. Splash the water with your hand to create an interest. If your dog is still resistant, step aside. It’s not the time yet, and you need to play more at a safe distance. For how long – it depends on the dog. Might be enough with a short break or might try to take a day off.
  • If your dog comes near the water or enters it, praise. Give a treat, play and keep having fun. But carefully observe his behavior. Don’t hold him physically if he wants to go back. Once back in a safety, praise and show how proud you are.
  • Now it’s a good to take a short break. Don’t play or run. Let him do whatever he wants.
Following the previous pattern you might be able to enter the water with your dog and slowly move deeper. Of course, remember not to push him. Encourage coming deeper only with having fun. And stop whenever your dog gets tired.

When you get to actual swimming, your dog will probably still feel unsafe. Allow him to swim a small circle and return on shore. May try to lead him with your hands and hold his back, so it does not go down.

Remember to praise your dog constantly. When he starts to swim, when he swims and when he returns back. It will take some time before he’ll feel safe, but if you get this far – it will probably be okay. If you retain patience.

How to Help Your Dog Overcome a Fear of Water

Why are some dogs afraid of water? I have read that some breeds are predisposed to a fear of water, but I don’t agree with that. If a dog is afraid of water, many experts feel it is because they had a bad experience when they were younger. Another reason a dog may be afraid of water is because they don’t know what it is. Water comes in several forms and is found in many places and situations.

A dog growing up in a kennel situation, going outside to go potty in a cement run covered from the weather will have no experience with wet grass on their paws or feeling snow or raindrops on their skin. It makes sense that a dog in that situation would not have any experience with water and may not understand it. I think instinct may have to do with the initial fear of water some dogs have. If a dog is wary of something they don’t understand and keeps their distance, it is less apt to harm them.

Wolves are not afraid of water and they have to hunt to feed their families whether it is raining or snowing. They cover long distances and depending on the season have to cross water, ice and snow to get from one place to another. Our domestic dogs haven’t had to live outdoors for hundreds of years and are no longer as in tune to the changes in weather that their wild counterparts are. Don’t get me wrong, dogs do feel the barometric pressure change when a storm is moving in. However, most are inside where the temperature is constant and they don’t feel the cold or heat of the day; and they don’t sit watching the weather outside change.

How do you get your dog used to water? You can train your dog to be accepting of water gradually, using understanding, patience, praise and dog treats as bait (if you need them). It may take several tries if they have gotten scared by water in the past. Try not to become frustrated if it doesn’t happen the way you want the first time you try it. If your dog is afraid of rain, take their favorite toy outside and play a game with them while it is raining. You can use this method when it is snowing too; just make sure you can see the toy in the snow. Praise them and offer a treat when they bring the toy back. If they have a problem with dewy grass, take them for a walk in the early morning or invite one of their dog friends over for an early morning play session while the grass is still wet. They will be interested in playing and forget about the wet grass.

Maybe your dog is fearful of taking a bath because they fell in the bathtub when they were young, went under and got a mouth full of water. Try getting them used to shallow water using a kiddie pool with a piece of non-skid shelf liner in the bottom so they won’t fall. Fill it with a few inches of water, get in and coax them in with you using a treat. Gently apply water to them and show them it isn’t as scary as they think. If you have a small dog, use a dishpan filled with warm water instead.

If your dog is afraid of water in general, try taking them to a lake with a beach or a gentle sloping bank that allows them to walk in on their own. Plan your trip on a day when the wind is calm, so there will be less wave action that may make them nervous. Attach a six foot lead to their collar and use praise and a treat to coax them into the water. If they don’t want to enter the water don’t force the issue. Return another day and repeat the exercise.

Skye is one of those dogs that isn’t entirely sure about water. She’s not afraid of a bath, though she is glad when it is over. She doesn’t like rain but she loves playing in the snow and has to be cajoled to come back inside. I had to teach Skye about the water in her kiddie pool but she goes charging into the river when we take a walk there. She wasn’t always so accepting of water, but over time she discovered that it isn’t the demon she thought it was. By understand your dog and using patience, praise and treats, you can help a dog who is fearful of water, learn to enjoy getting wet.

Dogs Hate Men

Q: My Chihuahua, Crystal, hates men. This is ruining my chances for romance. What should I do? - Leila, San Jose, CA

A: Dear Leila, It is unlikely that Crystal "hates" men. Hate is an inimitably human foible. More likely, Crystal is fearful of men. Indeed, being afraid of men is very common for dogs living with single women, since the dogs have had little opportunity to interact with men on a daily basis. What Crystal needs now is what she has always needed since puppyhood-the opportunity to socialize with men-lots of them. The resolution to the problem is going to be pretty easy and, of course, man-socialization for Crystal also means man-socialization for you.

Put Crystal's food bowl in the cupboard. No more meals from her food bowl until she loves the company, attention, and affection of men. For two days, handfeed Crystal ALL of her daily ration of kibble. (If you feed her canned food or raw diet, change to feeding kibble for now.)

For another five days, invite a number of female friends to handfeed her. From this, she learns the game she is later going to play with men. Fearful responses are exacerbated by not knowing how to act. You are going to imbue confidence in Crystal by teaching her how to act, first around women, then around men. Practice "come-sit-kibble" over and over. Then add a little variation: "come sit- stay-kibble-kibble-kibble."

Finally, for several weeks, or as long as it takes, invite men to handfeed her. You must not feed her anything. Resist those sweet, pleading eyes. During this time, the only food Crystal eats must come from the hand of a man. We want Crystal to make the association between male guests and a lengthy, yummy dinnertime. We want Crystal to learn to love the presence and presents of men.

When you start this phase, Crystal may not approach right away. Sit the man comfortably in a chair (with a sports program on the telly) and be patient. When Crystal has approached to her safe distance, instruct the man to toss a bit of kibble over her head so that she has to retreat to get it. As Crystal sniffs the kibble, have the man toss three treats between her and him. As Crystal approaches again, she will be rewarded with three tasty treats. Practice this over and over.

Ignore Crystal if she barks or snaps, but be sure to praise her whenever she is brave. Let her know how proud you are when she acts confidently.

Now, I am assuming Crystal currently shies away from men or, at the very most, yips and yaps, snaps and lunges, or maybe nips men. The prognosis is good so long as you act right away. If not, her behaviour towards men will get progressively worse and eventually, Crystal will bite someone. Even though she is a small dog and her bites will be small, biting (puncturing the skin) is a serious problem. If she is already biting, contact a certified pet dog trainer (CPDT) right away

Speedy treatment is also important because, apart from hurting men's feelings and curtailing their (and your) amorous intentions, Crystal is hurting, too. It is simply not pleasant to be scared of something and then have to confront that fear on an irregular basis.

So where do you find male volunteers for this project? Just ask. Ask all your female friends about likely candidates. Ask men from work. Ask a local trainer whether you may recruit men from puppy classes. You only want to recruit trained men, not those who might think it funny to tease Crystal and frighten her. Maybe ask the trainer to help you with the training as well.

It is always a sound plan to invite a bunch of men plus a few female friends at the same time. Not only is this a sensible safety precaution, but also some of your unmarried female friends might find a good man, too. Watching a man working with a small dog (or a large dog, or almost any animal for that matter) is an open window into his heart and soul. You never know, maybe Crystal's fear of men will prompt the ringing of many sets of wedding bells. ■

Pet Information Sheets

Fear of Men

Proper socialization of a puppy is the best solution for preventing and eliminating most fears – including the fear of different types of people, situations and objects.

Unfortunately, you may realize that you have a grown dog that is afraid of children, men, men with beards or people with certain characteristics. The fear may have been caused by just never being exposed before or an event that your dog felt was traumatic. First, you must determine if they are afraid of all men or just men with beards or hats.

Desensitize Training

Planning is imperative to desensitize your dog. First, determine your dog’s favorite treat; hot dogs, cheese, chicken are good choices. Keep the treats small; you do not want a fat dog. No biscuits or large dog bones.

Assuming your dog does not like men in hats, have a man friend (with the treats) enter the room wearing a hat. If your dog appears fearful, have the man turn sideways and look up or away. This is a very non-threatening pose. Have your friend throw a few treats at a distance. Slowly decrease the distance as the dog becomes more confident and less fearful. Be calm.

Don’t Push or Scold
Careful - do not push your dog. If you are afraid of snakes, you do not want one in your lap right away. If you push, someone may get bitten. Most dog bites are fear related. The dog may also become more fearful and react negatively more quickly next time.

Do not reprimand, scold or tell your dog, “No”. Your dog believes their fear is rational and a “No” is only reinforcing their belief. To a dog, the “No” translates to, “No, do not go near that scary person”, not “No, don’t growl at that perfectly nice person with the hat.”

You’re OK, I’m OK

Your dog is very aware of your emotions. So if you are worried that your dog will be afraid, both of you are fearful and your dog knows this. Your dog will assume you fear the same man with the hat; not just worried about them. So be confident, keep your voice calm and add some laughter. Be relaxed and calm; don’t worry. Tell you dog everything is fine with confidence.

Keep the Focus

If you encounter someone or something fearful on a walk, do not focus on the feared person or object. Turn your back on the feared object and keep your dog’s focus. Turning your back tells your dog, you have no fear. Talk to your dog, give it a treat and ignore the object. One trick is put a treat in your hand and let your dog see it or smell it. Take a few moments before you release the treat. Keep your dog’s attention. 

My Dog Is Afraid of Men!

(Please, PLEASE note that fear issues can be very tricky. While these training tips may help to start a dog get over her problem, it is always best to work face to face with a trainer or behaviorist who is comfortable dealing with aggression. Remember that a dog who feels trapped may feel that her teeth are her only defense.  

When dealing with a fearful dog, be sure that safety is the top priority, with setting the dog up for success coming a close second.)

It would be wonderful if everyone who got a puppy knew how to socialize it to a variety of different people and situations so that she would grow up to be a confident, well-adjusted adult dog. However, this isn’t always the case. And sometimes, even in dogs that were properly socialized, traumatic events or basic temperament may make dogs afraid of certain people. For the basis of this article I will be focusing on dogs that are afraid of men. These training techniques can be expanded and altered to fit a fear of any type or gender of person and in some cases some objects.

If a dog is afraid of men, try to decide if it is all men, or just certain kinds of men.Some dogs can't stand beards, mustaches, hats, different skin color, glasses, etc. Once you determine what triggers the dog’s fear response, you can try to work to desensitize the dog to this type of people.

If you can set things up in advance, that would be great, but if not, you can certainly work around it. Find out what treats your dog adores. In my house, cut up hot dogs work well, Natural Balance dog food rolls, and pieces of deli meat.

Whenever the dog encounters someone that scares her, ask the person to turn sideways to her, look slightly away (both of these things tell the dog that this person isn't a threat), and have him toss treats in the dog’s direction. They might have to throw treats quite a ways to begin with, but can gradually get closer as the dog feels more confident and less scared.

Don't push her to accept anyone - if she feels really threatened there is always the possibility that she'll bite. If she can work toward someone on her own level she feels much safer.Also, be sure that if you're talking to the dog that you're not scolding, which can make her think that men = scolding, and also that you're not reassuring her in a soft voice. That can sound an awful lot like praise and she may think that you're telling her that it's good to be scared of the man. As strange as this may sound, try laughing at the dog when she's scared (I usually tack on a "silly puppy!" when I laugh in these situations.) Your laughter may cue the dog that there is nothing for her to be afraid of. If that seems too weird, just be sure that if you talk to the dog when she shows fear, that you use a very matter of fact voice. Kind of a
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