Search in this site

12/12/12

Dog Neutering procedure

 Neutering procedure (desexing surgery) - a step by step pictorial guide to canine neutering.

As stated in the opening section, neutering is the surgical removal of a male dog's testicles. During the procedure, each of the dog's testes and testicular epididymi are removed along with sections of the dog's testicular blood vessels and spermatic ducts (vas deferens or ductus deferens). And to be quite honest, from a general, non-veterinary pet owner's perspective, this is probably all of the information that you really need to know about the surgical process of desexing a dog

Desexing basically converts this ...


Information about neutering age: when to neuter a dog

The following subsections discuss current desexing age recommendations and how they have been established as well as the pros and cons of early age (8-16 weeks) neutering.

Current desexing age recommendations.


In Australia and throughout much of the world it is currently recommended that male dogs are neutered at around 5-7 months of age and older (as far as the "older" goes, the closer to the 5-7 months of age mark the better - there is less chance of your dog developing a testicular or testosterone-dependant medical condition if he is desexed at a younger age). 

The reasoning behind this 5-7 month age specification is one of anaesthetic safety for elective procedures.

When asked by owners why it is that a dog needs to wait until 5-7 months of age to be desexed, most veterinarians will simply say that it is much safer for them to wait until this age before undergoing a general anaesthetic procedure. The theory is that the liver and kidneys of very young animals are much less mature than those of older animals and therefore less capable of tolerating the effects of anaesthetic drugs and less effective at metabolising them and breaking them down and excreting them from the body. Younger animals are therefore expected to have prolonged recovery times and an increased risk of suffering from severe side effects, in particular liver and kidney damage, as a result of general anaesthesia. Consequently, most vets will choose not to anesthetize a young dog until at least 5 months of age for an elective procedure such as neutering. 

Dog Neutering pros and cons - the reasons for and against neutering.

The benefits of neutering (the pros of neutering) - why we neuter dogs.

There are many reasons why veterinarians and pet advocacy groups recommend the neutering of entire male dogs. Many of these reasons are listed below, however the list is by no means exhaustive.

1. The prevention of unwanted litters:

Pet overpopulation and the dumping of unwanted litters of puppies (and kittens) is an all-too-common side effect of irresponsible pet ownership. Every year, thousands of unwanted puppies and older dogs are dumped on the street (where they ultimately end up dying from neglect or finding their way into pounds and shelters) or handed in to shelters. Many of these animals do not ever get adopted from the pounds and shelters that take them in and need to be euthanased. This sad waste of healthy life can be reduced by not letting pet dogs breed indiscriminately and one way of preventing any accidental, unwanted breeding from occurring is through the routine neutering of all non-stud (non-breeder) male dogs (and female dogs too, but this is another page). 

What is Dog neutering

Neutering is the surgical removal of a male dog's testicles. During the procedure, each of the dog's testes and testicular epididymi are removed along with sections of the dog's testicular blood vessels and spermatic ducts (vas deferens or ductus deferens). The remainder of the male dog's reproductive tract structures, including: the prostate, urethra, penis, bulbis glandis and much of the dog's testicular blood vessels and spermatic ducts are left intact.


 Basically, the parts of the male reproductive tract that get removed are those which are responsible for sperm production, sperm maturation and the secretion of testosterone (the major male hormone). Removal of these structures plays a big role in canine population control (without sperm, the dog can not father young); genetic disease control (male dogs with genetic disorders can not pass on their disease conditions to any young if they can not breed); prevention and/or treatment of various medical disorders (e.g. castration prevents and/or treats a number of testicular diseases and testosterone-enhanced medical conditions) and male dog behavioural modification (testosterone is responsible for many male-dog behavioural traits that some owners find problematic - e.g. roaming, aggression, inter-male aggression, dominance, leg cocking - and castration, by removing the source of testosterone, may help to resolve these issues).

View full : Dog neutering 

Male Dog Neutering

Male dog neutering, otherwise known as sterilisation, "fixing", desexing, castration (castrating) or by its correct veterinary name: orchiectomy (also termed gonadectomy), is the surgical removal of a male dog's testicles for the purposes of canine population control, medical health benefit, genetic-disease control and behavioral modification. Considered to be a basic component of responsible pet ownership, the neutering of male dogs is a common surgical procedure that is performed by most veterinary clinics all over the world. This page contains everything you, the pet owner, need to know about male dog neutering. Neutering topics are covered in the following order: 


Setting the House Rules for Your Dog


Heel. Sit. Down. Stay. Come. That's what comes to mind when most people think about training their dogs. Training your dog to respond to obedience commands is an important part of training that builds your dog's confidence, teaches your dog to look to you for direction and gives you a means of controlling your dog when you need him to behave.

But if you want your dog to be a civilized member of your household, there's a lot more to training than teaching commands. There are decisions that you need to make about how you want your dog to behave around the house when he's not on command. These decisions should be made as early in your dog's life as possible, but it's never too late. By setting house rules for your dog, you let him know which behaviors are acceptable and which are unacceptable in your home.

The guidelines you set for your dog's behavior around the house will make a big difference in what kind of companion your dog will be. There's no "right" or "wrong" when it comes to choosing many of these house rules. They are based solely on your personal preferences for what kind of behavior you want to allow.

Dog : Guarding Furniture

How can I stop my dog from guarding furniture? Why does my dog do this?

When a dog jumps up on a couch, chair, table, stairs (whatever it may be) and growls when you come near him, touch him, or protest when you ask him to get down, the dog is telling you he owns it. This behavior must be stopped or this will most certainly lead to biting.

First, let’s look at what it means to the dog. When a dog behaves like this, he is telling you he owns that particular spot. A dominant dog will often seek out high places to watch over his domain, claiming the place as his own. He's communicating with you that he is the boss and he is demanding you respect his space. As anyone approaches they must ask permission to be there. The dog will growl, and eventually snap and bite, in order to correct YOU. He is telling you, as his subordinate, to leave the area, or to get his permission to be there. First comes growling, and later will surely come biting, because this is how a dominant dog communicates; they set a "rule." Your dog is not doing this because he is mean, he is doing this because he wants and/or thinks, he is the boss of your house. The top dog owns everything and makes the rules. This is a primal instinct hardwired into your dog’s brain. It is because of this instinctual behavior, when one owns a dog, the dog owns nothing. Everything must belong to the human, from the furniture to his toys to his food bowl. You, as his leader, will make all of the decisions. You, as the human, own the furniture, and you, as the human, will decide who can and cannot sit on it, and when.

Keeping a Dog OFF the Furniture


Dogs enjoy furniture for the same reasons we do. Some humans enjoy lounging around on the floor, but furniture in homes is certainly common and much used. Also like humans, many dogs have joint problems that make lying on the floor painful.

If you're not going to allow the dog on the furniture, provide a bed with the right padding and warmth for the dog's needs. It doesn't have to be expensive. You can buy egg-crate foam intended for human mattress pads, cut it to the right size, and wrap it with an old sheet for a cool-seeking dog, or use an old blanket for a warmth-seeking dog. For some dogs you'll need warmth for part of the year and coolness for part of the year.


The Right Start

Once a dog forms the habit of getting up on furniture, change is difficult. If you want to keep your dogs off the furniture, your best bet is to start EVERY puppy and new dog in your home with "off the furniture" as the CONSISTENT rule. This means everyone in the family cooperates in keeping the dog off the furniture. Just one uncooperative person can ruin the training, and create a situation unfair to the dog. 

Do not leave the puppy or dog alone around furniture until training is complete. Someone must supervise, just as you will be doing anyway for housetraining and to teach the dog to chew only dog toys, not inappropriate items.
Be gentle when removing the dog from furniture. It's best not to touch the dog at all, other than to lift a puppy or small dog and place gently on the floor. Puppies and small dogs can be injured by jumping off furniture.

For larger dogs who won't be harmed by getting down on their own, it is safer and more effective to lure and/or cue the dog to get off the furniture, and reward the dog for being back on the floor. People often arouse aggression in dogs by angrily ejecting them from furniture, which can both trigger defense drives in dogs and cause pain if the dog has an orthopedic problem. Orthopedic problems, both inherited and injury related, are so common in dogs that this is a frequent cause of a dog reacting aggressively when forced to get up from a comfortable position and jump down to the floor.

If the dog is adult and new to your home, consider keeping a leash on when teaching the dog to get off furniture in order to have good control. A head halter is an additional safeguard if the dog shows any tendency to react defensively.

Don't drag the dog off furniture with the leash. Induce the dog to return to the floor while you simply hold the leash, keeping it slack, with no tension pulling against the dog. The leash is simply a safety, "just in case." If the dog is off-leash, avoid grabbing the collar or otherwise physically forcing the dog. Either of those maneuvers can be dangerous.

Keep temper out of it. You're teaching the dog what you DO want, not scolding or punishing for the behavior you do not want. This approach will lead to everyone in the family eventually being able to remind the dog about furniture when necessary without risking a defensive reaction from the dog.

Remember that you need a place for the dog to comfortably rest. You're teaching the dog WHERE to rest, not just WHERE NOT to rest. So have the comfy bed in place. The place for it is near the family-which means you may need several comfy resting places for the dog-so that obeying you does not place the dog in social isolation. Social isolation is punishment to a dog, and you want doing the right behavior to be rewarding.

Reward the dog in the chosen resting place. Do this both when you have just cued the dog to go to the place, and also when you notice the dog has gone to that place without a cue. Use tiny treats, special chew toys, praise, petting, toys with food inside them, and other rewards your dog can enjoy while resting on the bed.


If you do this training right from the start, a puppy will never develop the habit of getting up on furniture. A dog new to your home is also more "teachable" about things like this right at first, because so much is new to the dog that there's a special openness to learning new ways, new rules.

Oops, A Habit


When a dog has already formed the habit of getting up on furniture, changing that is more challenging than setting the desired habit from the start. The dog will probably always have some tendency to get up on furniture when no one is around. You will need to keep the dog from having access to the furniture when you're not supervising, for quite some time, and possibly even for life.

Rooms with furniture the dog likes to get on-bedrooms, living room, possibly family rooms-can be gated off so that the dog can't go in there without a human to supervise. Alternatively the dog could be crated, but if furniture is the only reason, gating off the areas gives the dog more room to move joints and exercise muscles and can be healthier than crating.

Some people find a Scat Mat (you can buy it through pet catalogs) will keep a dog off the sofa. It gives the dog a shock. Obviously, you can't have the Scat Mat on the sofa if you're using it. Electric shock also carries the risk of "superstitious behavior," too, with a dog developing fear or aggression toward something experienced at the same time as the shock.

A plastic carpet runner--the kind intended to lie over the carpet to protect it, like at an open house when a house is for sale-can help. Turn the carpet runner upside down, so the plastic points that were intended to grip the carpet are instead pointed up, making an uncomfortable surface for a dog.

Some dogs like to get up high to see things. If this is the case, it can help to either block the dog's view from the furniture, or provide a better view elsewhere. Maybe move the furniture.

Compromise


A popular solution to this problem is to use slipcovers on the furniture. They could be formal ones, beautifully made, or just bed sheets, comforters, blankets, etc. tossed over the sofa to keep it from picking up dog hair and dirt. Then, people may go ahead and allow the dog on the furniture. It's even possible to teach a dog to wait for the sheet to be put on the furniture before getting up there.

Another solution some people use is to get a piece of furniture for the dog, the only one the dog is allowed to use. You can keep an old sofa for this purpose. This furniture has to be in the area of the house where the dog WANTS to be, not somewhere isolated from where the rest of the family hangs out.

Why?


In an all-adult household where every family member happily welcomes the easy-tempered dog on furniture, it might seem unnecessary to keep the dog off the furniture. But before making this choice, take careful thought.

Puppies should not be allowed on furniture until their adult temperaments become evident, during or after puberty. At that point it will become clear that some of them should NEVER be allowed on furniture, due to unsuitable temperament.

Puppies and small dogs can be injured jumping off furniture. If you do decide to allow your small dog on furniture, you'll need to either teach the dog to wait to be lifted down, or provide a ramp and train the dog to consistently use it.

Houses with children are well advised to keep dogs off furniture. Young kids running up to beds startle dogs out of sleep and have their faces in exactly the right place for a bite to cause lifelong disfigurement. If you don't have young children, what about grandchildren or other relatives, children of friends, etc.? If not now, what about 5 or 10 years from now when you still have this dog and habits are set?

If there is anyone in the household who is fussy about dog hair on clothing, or you expect to entertain guests you wouldn't want to offend by covering their clothes with dog hair, those are reasons to teach the dog to stay off furniture. Remember that changing the rules later is very hard on the dog. It's more humane to train the way you will need things to be later, right from the start.

Though you might not imagine your dog could ever have to adjust to a new home, it happens to the vast majority of dogs during their lives. Teaching the dog to stay off furniture gives the dog a better chance of a future home being a permanent home, in the event this ever happens.

"Off the furniture" is a good habit for people to teach their dogs, especially puppies. You can easily change later if the dog's temperament and the circumstances in the home make it reasonable for the dog to share the family's furniture. It's unusual to find a dog who won't learn to get up on furniture when the family desires this change, even after years of the dog never doing so.

How to Install a Pet Door in a Wood Door

Dog Door

Pet lovers now have a new ally: pet door. Installing a pet door (cat or dog door) into your front house door, will ease your life, allowing your pet to go and come when it wants, with no need for you personally to be forced to open the door. This little door allows your pet to get out without help at any time of day or night. Cats and dogs are very intelligent animals and assertive, so no need to worry that they will not find the way to home. They just need a way to access inside the house and nothing else.


Usually, a pet door comes as a kit with all the necessary hardware. In this kit is included a frame that can be installed over the hole cut into your front door. Of course, models and types vary widely, but in principle, the system is everywhere the same. Such a door is actually a flap-hinged door that is mounted at the entrance of the house. Your pet will push up this flap in its way out, and the flap will automatically swing back into its place once your little quadruped friend is through. This device is generally, found in any pet shop or hardware store in a wide range of shapes, sizes and colors, depending on your pet (cat or dog).

The installation is not difficult and you can do it yourself with some common hand tools.

Materials & Tools

- Pet Door Kit; Level; Pencil; Masking Tape; Metal File;
- Jig Saw; Drill; Drill Bits; Wrench; Hacksaw.

1| So the first thing you must consider is the size of the animal. Make sure that it fits the body relatively easily by opening the door. Measure your pet size, especially its height. The bottom of the pet door should be two inches below the animal’s chest. Make a sign with your pencil at this height in the middle of your wooden front door.

NOTE: If your pet door is installed on a wood door with a panel, set the pet door bottom several inches over the rail at the bottom of your wood door.

2| Place the template bottom that came with the kit with its center to the front door at the mark made by you. However, make sure the template is level. Trace the inside outline of this template and then remove it from your front door.

Cat Door


3| Take your drill and make ½-inch holes in all the four corners of the contour made by you. Make sure the holes do not go outside of the lines. Use a jigsaw and carefully cut along the outline.

4| Nest step is the installation of the inside frame of the pet door over the created hole. Use your level, square it, and then tape it in its place. Make the marks for the boltholes and remove the inside frame. Use a drill bit slightly bigger than the bolts, and drill the holes.

5| Finally, install the pet door-frame. Place the bolts through the holes. Place the outside door-frame over the door bolts and secure it using a wrench. Cut off the door bolts, which protrudes past the nuts. Use a hacksaw to do that. Now the door is ready to be used by your little friend.

Parvovirus Infection In Your Dog Parvo Virus Enteritis - CPV



  1. Where Did Parvovirus Come From ?
  2. Are There Unique Things About The Parvovirus That Make It Particularly Dangerous ?
  3. Is There More Than One Strain Of Dog Parvo ?
  4. Do Current Vaccines Protect Against All Strains Of Dog Parvo - Even The Newest Ones ?
  5. Does Parvo Appear To Be More Severe In Certain Breeds ?
  6. Is Parvovirus Today Primarily A Disease of Puppies and Adolescent Dogs ? 
  7. Can Pets Other Than Dogs Catch Parvo - What About Me ?
  8. Where Do Dogs Catch Parvo ?
  9. How Long Does The Virus Persist Where A Sick Dog Had Been ?
  10. What If I Have Decided To Get My Dog From An Animal Shelter ?
  11. How Long Might It Take After My Dog Is Exposed To Parvo For It To Appear ill ?
  12. What Is Happening Inside My Dog That Is Making It Feel So Bad ?
  13. If My Dog Catches Parvo, What Signs Will I See ?
  14. If My Vet Suspects That My Dog Has Parvo, What Tests Will The Vet Run ?
  15. Is Parvo Always Fatal ?
  16. What Treatments Will Help My Dog ?
  17. What Are Some Key Things My Vet Will Monitor To Tell How Well My Sick Dog Is Responding To Treatment ?
  18. Does My Puppy or Dog Need Special Care Once it Is Out of Danger And Recovering ?
  19. Is The Vaccine Against Parvo Effective ?
  20. Will My Other Pets Catch It ?
  21. At What Age Should My Puppy Be Vaccinated To Prevent Parvo ?
  22. My Puppy Got His Vaccinations – But He Still Caught Parvo - Why !!
  23. How Often Does My Adult Dog Need A Parvo Shot To Keep It Protected ?
  24. Is There An Alternative To Booster Vaccinations For My Adult Dog ?
  25. Can My Dog Catch Parvo More Than Once ?
  26. Are There Ways I Can Disinfect My Home And Yard After A Case of Parvo ?
  27. If I Decide To Get Another Dog, How Long Should I Wait ?
  28. What About The Parvo Cures I See For Sale On The Internet ?


There was a time, - not that long ago - that parvovirus of dogs did not exist - at least not in the developed Western World. Before 1967, distemper was our most serious viral disease of dogs. But in that year, alert veterinarians at Walter Reed Army Institute in D.C. discovered a new virus in the feces of military dogs that were suffering respiratory problems.  The vets named it minute virus of canines, or canine parvovirus 1 (CPV 1). By 1976 veterinarians realized that they had a new and highly dangerous disease to deal with. 

Since those early panic days, the number of dogs dying from parvo has decreased. That is due almost entirely to the superb protection our anti-parvo vaccines produce (although the virus ran out of susceptible adult dogs with no immunity as well). But the virus is still out there throughout the World, taking advantage of unprotected dogs that either received no vaccine or received it improperly.
dog
Power by xinh xinh