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12/12/12

Dog : Guarding Furniture

How can I stop my dog from guarding furniture? Why does my dog do this?

When a dog jumps up on a couch, chair, table, stairs (whatever it may be) and growls when you come near him, touch him, or protest when you ask him to get down, the dog is telling you he owns it. This behavior must be stopped or this will most certainly lead to biting.

First, let’s look at what it means to the dog. When a dog behaves like this, he is telling you he owns that particular spot. A dominant dog will often seek out high places to watch over his domain, claiming the place as his own. He's communicating with you that he is the boss and he is demanding you respect his space. As anyone approaches they must ask permission to be there. The dog will growl, and eventually snap and bite, in order to correct YOU. He is telling you, as his subordinate, to leave the area, or to get his permission to be there. First comes growling, and later will surely come biting, because this is how a dominant dog communicates; they set a "rule." Your dog is not doing this because he is mean, he is doing this because he wants and/or thinks, he is the boss of your house. The top dog owns everything and makes the rules. This is a primal instinct hardwired into your dog’s brain. It is because of this instinctual behavior, when one owns a dog, the dog owns nothing. Everything must belong to the human, from the furniture to his toys to his food bowl. You, as his leader, will make all of the decisions. You, as the human, own the furniture, and you, as the human, will decide who can and cannot sit on it, and when.

Keeping a Dog OFF the Furniture


Dogs enjoy furniture for the same reasons we do. Some humans enjoy lounging around on the floor, but furniture in homes is certainly common and much used. Also like humans, many dogs have joint problems that make lying on the floor painful.

If you're not going to allow the dog on the furniture, provide a bed with the right padding and warmth for the dog's needs. It doesn't have to be expensive. You can buy egg-crate foam intended for human mattress pads, cut it to the right size, and wrap it with an old sheet for a cool-seeking dog, or use an old blanket for a warmth-seeking dog. For some dogs you'll need warmth for part of the year and coolness for part of the year.


The Right Start

Once a dog forms the habit of getting up on furniture, change is difficult. If you want to keep your dogs off the furniture, your best bet is to start EVERY puppy and new dog in your home with "off the furniture" as the CONSISTENT rule. This means everyone in the family cooperates in keeping the dog off the furniture. Just one uncooperative person can ruin the training, and create a situation unfair to the dog. 

Do not leave the puppy or dog alone around furniture until training is complete. Someone must supervise, just as you will be doing anyway for housetraining and to teach the dog to chew only dog toys, not inappropriate items.
Be gentle when removing the dog from furniture. It's best not to touch the dog at all, other than to lift a puppy or small dog and place gently on the floor. Puppies and small dogs can be injured by jumping off furniture.

For larger dogs who won't be harmed by getting down on their own, it is safer and more effective to lure and/or cue the dog to get off the furniture, and reward the dog for being back on the floor. People often arouse aggression in dogs by angrily ejecting them from furniture, which can both trigger defense drives in dogs and cause pain if the dog has an orthopedic problem. Orthopedic problems, both inherited and injury related, are so common in dogs that this is a frequent cause of a dog reacting aggressively when forced to get up from a comfortable position and jump down to the floor.

If the dog is adult and new to your home, consider keeping a leash on when teaching the dog to get off furniture in order to have good control. A head halter is an additional safeguard if the dog shows any tendency to react defensively.

Don't drag the dog off furniture with the leash. Induce the dog to return to the floor while you simply hold the leash, keeping it slack, with no tension pulling against the dog. The leash is simply a safety, "just in case." If the dog is off-leash, avoid grabbing the collar or otherwise physically forcing the dog. Either of those maneuvers can be dangerous.

Keep temper out of it. You're teaching the dog what you DO want, not scolding or punishing for the behavior you do not want. This approach will lead to everyone in the family eventually being able to remind the dog about furniture when necessary without risking a defensive reaction from the dog.

Remember that you need a place for the dog to comfortably rest. You're teaching the dog WHERE to rest, not just WHERE NOT to rest. So have the comfy bed in place. The place for it is near the family-which means you may need several comfy resting places for the dog-so that obeying you does not place the dog in social isolation. Social isolation is punishment to a dog, and you want doing the right behavior to be rewarding.

Reward the dog in the chosen resting place. Do this both when you have just cued the dog to go to the place, and also when you notice the dog has gone to that place without a cue. Use tiny treats, special chew toys, praise, petting, toys with food inside them, and other rewards your dog can enjoy while resting on the bed.


If you do this training right from the start, a puppy will never develop the habit of getting up on furniture. A dog new to your home is also more "teachable" about things like this right at first, because so much is new to the dog that there's a special openness to learning new ways, new rules.

Oops, A Habit


When a dog has already formed the habit of getting up on furniture, changing that is more challenging than setting the desired habit from the start. The dog will probably always have some tendency to get up on furniture when no one is around. You will need to keep the dog from having access to the furniture when you're not supervising, for quite some time, and possibly even for life.

Rooms with furniture the dog likes to get on-bedrooms, living room, possibly family rooms-can be gated off so that the dog can't go in there without a human to supervise. Alternatively the dog could be crated, but if furniture is the only reason, gating off the areas gives the dog more room to move joints and exercise muscles and can be healthier than crating.

Some people find a Scat Mat (you can buy it through pet catalogs) will keep a dog off the sofa. It gives the dog a shock. Obviously, you can't have the Scat Mat on the sofa if you're using it. Electric shock also carries the risk of "superstitious behavior," too, with a dog developing fear or aggression toward something experienced at the same time as the shock.

A plastic carpet runner--the kind intended to lie over the carpet to protect it, like at an open house when a house is for sale-can help. Turn the carpet runner upside down, so the plastic points that were intended to grip the carpet are instead pointed up, making an uncomfortable surface for a dog.

Some dogs like to get up high to see things. If this is the case, it can help to either block the dog's view from the furniture, or provide a better view elsewhere. Maybe move the furniture.

Compromise


A popular solution to this problem is to use slipcovers on the furniture. They could be formal ones, beautifully made, or just bed sheets, comforters, blankets, etc. tossed over the sofa to keep it from picking up dog hair and dirt. Then, people may go ahead and allow the dog on the furniture. It's even possible to teach a dog to wait for the sheet to be put on the furniture before getting up there.

Another solution some people use is to get a piece of furniture for the dog, the only one the dog is allowed to use. You can keep an old sofa for this purpose. This furniture has to be in the area of the house where the dog WANTS to be, not somewhere isolated from where the rest of the family hangs out.

Why?


In an all-adult household where every family member happily welcomes the easy-tempered dog on furniture, it might seem unnecessary to keep the dog off the furniture. But before making this choice, take careful thought.

Puppies should not be allowed on furniture until their adult temperaments become evident, during or after puberty. At that point it will become clear that some of them should NEVER be allowed on furniture, due to unsuitable temperament.

Puppies and small dogs can be injured jumping off furniture. If you do decide to allow your small dog on furniture, you'll need to either teach the dog to wait to be lifted down, or provide a ramp and train the dog to consistently use it.

Houses with children are well advised to keep dogs off furniture. Young kids running up to beds startle dogs out of sleep and have their faces in exactly the right place for a bite to cause lifelong disfigurement. If you don't have young children, what about grandchildren or other relatives, children of friends, etc.? If not now, what about 5 or 10 years from now when you still have this dog and habits are set?

If there is anyone in the household who is fussy about dog hair on clothing, or you expect to entertain guests you wouldn't want to offend by covering their clothes with dog hair, those are reasons to teach the dog to stay off furniture. Remember that changing the rules later is very hard on the dog. It's more humane to train the way you will need things to be later, right from the start.

Though you might not imagine your dog could ever have to adjust to a new home, it happens to the vast majority of dogs during their lives. Teaching the dog to stay off furniture gives the dog a better chance of a future home being a permanent home, in the event this ever happens.

"Off the furniture" is a good habit for people to teach their dogs, especially puppies. You can easily change later if the dog's temperament and the circumstances in the home make it reasonable for the dog to share the family's furniture. It's unusual to find a dog who won't learn to get up on furniture when the family desires this change, even after years of the dog never doing so.

How to Install a Pet Door in a Wood Door

Dog Door

Pet lovers now have a new ally: pet door. Installing a pet door (cat or dog door) into your front house door, will ease your life, allowing your pet to go and come when it wants, with no need for you personally to be forced to open the door. This little door allows your pet to get out without help at any time of day or night. Cats and dogs are very intelligent animals and assertive, so no need to worry that they will not find the way to home. They just need a way to access inside the house and nothing else.


Usually, a pet door comes as a kit with all the necessary hardware. In this kit is included a frame that can be installed over the hole cut into your front door. Of course, models and types vary widely, but in principle, the system is everywhere the same. Such a door is actually a flap-hinged door that is mounted at the entrance of the house. Your pet will push up this flap in its way out, and the flap will automatically swing back into its place once your little quadruped friend is through. This device is generally, found in any pet shop or hardware store in a wide range of shapes, sizes and colors, depending on your pet (cat or dog).

The installation is not difficult and you can do it yourself with some common hand tools.

Materials & Tools

- Pet Door Kit; Level; Pencil; Masking Tape; Metal File;
- Jig Saw; Drill; Drill Bits; Wrench; Hacksaw.

1| So the first thing you must consider is the size of the animal. Make sure that it fits the body relatively easily by opening the door. Measure your pet size, especially its height. The bottom of the pet door should be two inches below the animal’s chest. Make a sign with your pencil at this height in the middle of your wooden front door.

NOTE: If your pet door is installed on a wood door with a panel, set the pet door bottom several inches over the rail at the bottom of your wood door.

2| Place the template bottom that came with the kit with its center to the front door at the mark made by you. However, make sure the template is level. Trace the inside outline of this template and then remove it from your front door.

Cat Door


3| Take your drill and make ½-inch holes in all the four corners of the contour made by you. Make sure the holes do not go outside of the lines. Use a jigsaw and carefully cut along the outline.

4| Nest step is the installation of the inside frame of the pet door over the created hole. Use your level, square it, and then tape it in its place. Make the marks for the boltholes and remove the inside frame. Use a drill bit slightly bigger than the bolts, and drill the holes.

5| Finally, install the pet door-frame. Place the bolts through the holes. Place the outside door-frame over the door bolts and secure it using a wrench. Cut off the door bolts, which protrudes past the nuts. Use a hacksaw to do that. Now the door is ready to be used by your little friend.

Parvovirus Infection In Your Dog Parvo Virus Enteritis - CPV



  1. Where Did Parvovirus Come From ?
  2. Are There Unique Things About The Parvovirus That Make It Particularly Dangerous ?
  3. Is There More Than One Strain Of Dog Parvo ?
  4. Do Current Vaccines Protect Against All Strains Of Dog Parvo - Even The Newest Ones ?
  5. Does Parvo Appear To Be More Severe In Certain Breeds ?
  6. Is Parvovirus Today Primarily A Disease of Puppies and Adolescent Dogs ? 
  7. Can Pets Other Than Dogs Catch Parvo - What About Me ?
  8. Where Do Dogs Catch Parvo ?
  9. How Long Does The Virus Persist Where A Sick Dog Had Been ?
  10. What If I Have Decided To Get My Dog From An Animal Shelter ?
  11. How Long Might It Take After My Dog Is Exposed To Parvo For It To Appear ill ?
  12. What Is Happening Inside My Dog That Is Making It Feel So Bad ?
  13. If My Dog Catches Parvo, What Signs Will I See ?
  14. If My Vet Suspects That My Dog Has Parvo, What Tests Will The Vet Run ?
  15. Is Parvo Always Fatal ?
  16. What Treatments Will Help My Dog ?
  17. What Are Some Key Things My Vet Will Monitor To Tell How Well My Sick Dog Is Responding To Treatment ?
  18. Does My Puppy or Dog Need Special Care Once it Is Out of Danger And Recovering ?
  19. Is The Vaccine Against Parvo Effective ?
  20. Will My Other Pets Catch It ?
  21. At What Age Should My Puppy Be Vaccinated To Prevent Parvo ?
  22. My Puppy Got His Vaccinations – But He Still Caught Parvo - Why !!
  23. How Often Does My Adult Dog Need A Parvo Shot To Keep It Protected ?
  24. Is There An Alternative To Booster Vaccinations For My Adult Dog ?
  25. Can My Dog Catch Parvo More Than Once ?
  26. Are There Ways I Can Disinfect My Home And Yard After A Case of Parvo ?
  27. If I Decide To Get Another Dog, How Long Should I Wait ?
  28. What About The Parvo Cures I See For Sale On The Internet ?


There was a time, - not that long ago - that parvovirus of dogs did not exist - at least not in the developed Western World. Before 1967, distemper was our most serious viral disease of dogs. But in that year, alert veterinarians at Walter Reed Army Institute in D.C. discovered a new virus in the feces of military dogs that were suffering respiratory problems.  The vets named it minute virus of canines, or canine parvovirus 1 (CPV 1). By 1976 veterinarians realized that they had a new and highly dangerous disease to deal with. 

Since those early panic days, the number of dogs dying from parvo has decreased. That is due almost entirely to the superb protection our anti-parvo vaccines produce (although the virus ran out of susceptible adult dogs with no immunity as well). But the virus is still out there throughout the World, taking advantage of unprotected dogs that either received no vaccine or received it improperly.

Dog Birthday Cake Recipes

Dog Birthday Cake Recipes

Peanut Butter Delight: Dog Birthday Cake


Margaret Thatcher (Maggie) celebrates her fourth birthday with a little Peanut Butter Delight. Note: She only ate half!
  • 1 cup white or whole wheat flour 
  • 1 tsp baking soda 
  • 1/4 cup peanut butter 
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil 
  • 1 cup shredded carrots 
  • 1 tsp vanilla 
  • 1/3 cup honey 
  • 1 egg

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C)

Mix together flour and baking soda. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Pour into a ring mold sprayed with a nonstick spray. Bake for approximately 40 minutes.

Once cake is cool, frost cake with low fat cottage cheese and decorate with carrot pieces. Store in refrigerator for up to one week, or slice thinly and freeze in individual plastic baggies.


Peanut Butter Delight

Banana Carob Chip Dog Birthday Cake

  • 2 cups water
  • 2 ripe bananas
  • 1/8 tsp vanilla
  • 3 cups whole wheat flour
  • 1/2 Tbs baking powder
  • 1 egg
  • 2 Tbs honey
  • 1/2 cup carob chips

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C)

In a mixing bowl combine water, bananas, vanilla, egg and honey. Add whole wheat flour and baking powder. Mix well. Pour mixture into an 8-inch cake pan sprayed with a nonstick spray. Sprinkle carob chips on top. Bake for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.

Decorating suggestion: Make both the Cinnamon and Carob frostings (below), then ice the cake with one, and use the other as a decorative trim.

Cinnamon Frosting:

Combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:
12 ounces nonfat cream cheese (room temperature)
3 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp honey

Carob Frosting:

Combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:
12 ounces nonfat cream cheese (room temperature)
3 tsp carob
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp honey

Makes One 8-inch cake.


Banana Peanut Dog Birthday Party Cake

  • 2/3 cup ripe mashed bananas
  • 1/2 cup softened safflower margarine
  • 3 large eggs
  • 3/4 cup Water
  • 2 cups unbleached white flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 2 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/2 cup chopped peanuts

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C)

In mixing bowl, beat together mashed banana and butter until creamy. Add eggs and water. Beat well. Stir in dry ingredients. Beat until smooth. Add nuts. Spoon batter evenly into oiled and floured bundt pan. Bake for about 35 minutes. Cool on wire rack 5 minutes, remove from pan, replace on rack and cool.

To make Banana Carob frosting, combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:

2 cups ripe banana, mashed
1 Tbs butter
6 Tbs carob powder
2 tsp vanilla
3 Tbs Unbleached flour
1 tsp cinnamon

Sprinkle with chopped peanuts and enjoy!!


Dog Birthday Cake Frosting Recipes


~ Cinnamon Frosting ~

Combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:

12 ounces nonfat cream cheese (room temperature)
3 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp honey

Carob Frosting

Combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:

12 ounces nonfat cream cheese (room temperature)
3 tsp carob powder
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp honey

Banana Carob Frosting

Combine the following ingredients and blend thoroughly:

2 cups mashed ripe banana
1 Tbs butter
6 Tbs carob powder
2 tsp vanilla
3 Tbs Unbleached flour
1 tsp cinnamon

Dog Birthday Party Planning Guide

If there’s ever a day to spoil your dog, it’s on your dog's birthday. Throwing your dog a birthday party is a fun way to celebrate your four-legged friend and to say “thank you” for being a beloved companion. It’s an excuse to rally your dog’s furry friends, to decorate your home in paw prints, and to purchase some special treats for your dog and its pals. From the theme to the guests and decorations, we show you how to plan the perfect birthday party for your pup. Follow the steps below to make your dog’s big day a special and memorable one.
Dog Birthday Party DateHave the party on your dog’s birthday or on a day surrounding it that works best for you. If you have an adopted dog and aren’t sure of its actual birth date, celebrate the day that you first took your dog home from the shelter or wherever you got it from.

Dog Birthday Party Theme


Pick a theme that best represents your dog. You can coordinate your theme with the type of dog breed that you have. If you have a Dalmatian, for example, decorate your party with black and white party favors. If you have a poodle, throw a “Pink Poodle” party. You can also model your dog’s birthday bash after a famous dog—have a Scooby-Doo or Snoopy themed party. Have a luau party and put dog-friendly leis on guests as they arrive or do a Western theme and have dogs come wearing bandanas around their necks.

Dog Birthday Party Location


When planning the location for your dog’s birthday, it’s best to find a grassy outdoor area such as a backyard. Make sure that the yard is fenced in so off-leash dogs won’t be able to run away. Choose a location that has a nice open area for the dogs to play safely as well as a shaded spot for resting. You can also have your dog’s friends meet up at a dog park or dog beach. Another option is to rent out a dog-friendly space, such as a room at a doggie day care facility.
Dog Birthday Party DecorationsDraw paw prints with sidewalk chalk outside of your home to greet your guests. Pick out cute bowls to hold treats for your dog’s friends. Hang up photos of your dog around the party. Purchase party hats for your dog’s friends to wear. Draw bones and paw prints on balloons and tie them to tables and chairs around the yard. Throw a dog-print tablecloth down and dress up the room with crepe paper and garland. If you have a theme party, coordinate your decorations to match (i.e., use traditional green, purple, and gold colors for a Mardi Gras birthday bash).

Guests

Think about your dog’s network of playmates. Make sure that everyone you invite is neutered or spayed, up to date on vaccinations, and well socialized. Refrain from inviting dogs that have aggression issues and make sure you have enough humans on site to manage the number of doggie guests so that the dogs will be well supervised at all times.

Dog Birthday Party Invitations

Purchase dog birthday invitations online or from a nearby pet store. Make your own by cutting stationery in the shape of bones. Include a photo of your pet inside along with the date, time, and location of the party. Make sure you note any special directions such as items to bring or theme requirements inside the invitations. You can also send out an email invitation such as an Evite to the human owners of the guests invited.
Dog Birthday Party Food

Make sure to have plenty of fresh water on hand for your dog and its friends to sip during play breaks. Put dog treats in bowls on the table to be distributed throughout the party. Pick up a canine birthday cake at a nearby pet store or whip up a quick one at home. Make sure to serve finger foods, drinks, and snacks for the humans attending the party as well.


Entertainment


Fill the party with a variety of toys, balls, and Frisbees for your canine guests to play with. Purchase interactive games for dogs to try their hand at with the help of their owners. Have humans show off their dog’s talents and have a “Best Trick” contest. Set up a backyard obstacle course and have owners take turns navigating their dogs through it.
Party favors

Give your guests little bags of goodies upon their exit. Fill decorative bags with a variety of treats. Throw a toy or a ball into the bag. Let your dog’s guests take their party hats home as a souvenir. Take pictures at the party and email them out to guests after the event.
Safety tips/Things to keep in mind:

If small children are invited to the party, reach out to the owners to make sure their dogs do well with kids. Speak with dog owners regarding dietary restrictions before feeding treats to guests. Have guests’ veterinarian information on hand in case of an incident and keep first aid items nearby. Provide owners with plenty of bags for cleaning up poop and purchase stain remover in case one of the dogs has an accident. Keep an eye on the party guests at all times. Have a separate area gated off to contain dogs that aren’t playing well with others so as to avoid incidents. Make sure that you don’t have anything out that dogs can get into and keep all people food away from canine guests.

If you have more ideas for throwing your dog an unforgettable party, please share them in the Comments section below
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Distemper in Dogs

About Distemper

Canine distemper is a highly contagious and sometimes fatal disease that is seen in dogs worldwide. Though its incidence has diminished greatly due to vaccination, distemper cases and outbreaks are still seen sporadically.

Cause

Canine distemper is caused by the canine distemper virus. This virus can also infect several other species including ferrets and wild animals such as coyotes, foxes, wolves, skunks, and raccoons. Animals usually become infected by direct contact with virus particles from the secretions of other infected animals (generally via inhalation). Indirect transmission (i.e., carried on dishes or other objects) is not common because the virus does not survive for long in the environment. The virus can be shed by dogs for several weeks after recovery.

Risk Factors

Puppies under four months of age (before vaccinations are fully protective) and unvaccinated dogs are most at risk. Because canine distemper also occurs in wild animals, contact with wild animals may contribute to the spread of distemper to domestic dogs.

Signs and Symptoms of Distemper

Canine distemper causes symptoms in multiple body systems, including the gastrointestinal tract, respiratory tract, and the brain and spinal cord. The appearance of symptoms and course of distemper can be variable, ranging from very mild illness to fatal disease. Any of the following can be seen:
  • fever (often one episode a few days after infection that may not be noticed, followed by a second episode a few days later when the other symptoms begin to show up)
  • discharge from the eyes and nose
  • loss of appetite
  • lethargy
  • vomiting and diarrhea
  • coughing
  • labored breathing
  • hardening of footpads and nose (distemper has sometimes been called hardpad disease)
  • inflammation of various parts of the eye
  • secondary bacterial infections
  • neurological symptoms are variable
Neurological symptoms of distemper may not develop at all or develop later in the disease (sometimes even after several weeks). Neurological symptoms of distemper may include any of the following:
  • muscle twitching
  • weakness or paralysis
  • seizures (of any part of the body, but seizures that look as if the dog is chewing gum are unique to distemper)
  • uncoordinated movements
  • increased sensitivity to touch or pain

Diagnosis of Distemper

Diagnosis is based primarily on the the history and clinical signs. Because signs are variable and may take time to appear, and secondary infections are common, diagnosis can be complicated. Additionally, other infections can produce similar signs to distemper. A variety of laboratory tests can help confirm the diagnosis (and some may be done to rule out other infections).

Treatment of Distemper

There is no treatment specific to the distemper virus, so treatment involves managing the various symptoms and secondary infections. Even with treatment, distemper can be fatal. Treatment depends on the symptoms shown, and may include fluids to combat dehydration, medication to reduce vomiting, antibiotics and other medications to treat pneumonia, antibiotics for secondary infections, and anticonvulsants to treat seizures. Neurological symptoms may get progressively worse and not respond to treatment, and even with recovery some neurological effects may persist.

Prevention of Distemper

Vaccination is effective at preventing distemper. Puppies are typically vaccinated starting at 6 weeks of age and at regular intervals (every 2-4 weeks) until they are 14-16 weeks old (as with other vaccines, presence of antibodies received from the mother can interfere with vaccines so a puppy is not considered fully protected until the final vaccine in the series has been given). Vaccination should be repeated a year later, then at regular intervals. Your vet will discuss an appropriate vaccination schedule for your dog based on your dog's history and risk factors.

Until puppies have received all the vaccinations in the series (at 14-16 weeks) it is prudent to be careful about exposing them to unknown dogs (e.g., at dog parks) to avoid exposure to the virus as much as possible.

Home Care for a Dog with Distemper

Dogs suspected of having distemper should be isolated from other dogs. Other dogs in a household from which a dog has been diagnosed with distemper should be vaccinated if they are not currently vaccinated. The canine distemper virus does not typically survive long outside the body so thorough disinfection of the home is not as critical as with some other viruses (routine cleaning with any disinfectant should be sufficient). Check with your vet for recommendations on waiting times to introduce a new puppy to a household with a dog that has been diagnosed with distemper.

Please note: this article has been provided for informational purposes only. If your pet is showing any signs of illness, please consult a veterinarian as quickly as possible.

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog The Bang Performance

Difficulty: Hard


Great work! You've made it to the final trick. Your dog has mastered the basics now, moved on to harder and more advanced ones, and now you're ready to attempt Bang, the final, hardest, most extraordinary trick combination in this book. Now don't get discouraged before you even begin—it's not going to be easy, it will take a lot of work to master, but this is the single best show-stopper that's sure to leave your friends speechless. Your dog must be incredibly smart to have made it this far, and now he's just one trick away from knowing all 52. You can do it! Don't stop now!


A dog shows its teeth and growls, staring unblinking into a gun barrel. He stands protectively before its wounded master lying on the floor of a wet ally. It charges towards the gun. A muzzle-flash bolts in every direction. A lead bullet whisks through the air and strikes home. The dog stops in shock and its teeth fades from view.

It limps retreating from the gunman. It trips to the ground and crawls, crawls to its master. It reaches his side and whines. Rolls on its back, belly upturned, then is still.

A moment's pause. A voice in the sky authoritative and commanding deep and resonate over all things: "CUT" it says. Everything around flips with action, speeding movements in a whirlwind of excitement. The voice speaks again: "Check the gate."

The dog jumps to its paws and looks around, panting. A man chants over a headset to a person invisible. He pets the dog and feeds it a large treat. "Good boy, Max!" he says, "get ready for the next take, buddy."


Step 1: Tell your dog to limp, crawl, and play dead, clicking and treating after he performs each action.

Step 2: Now, give him all three commands again, this time keeping the treat until the end. Repeat several times.

Step 3: Now say "BANG!" before giving the three commands and while he is in his "play dead" position. Click and treat.

Step 4: Continue to practice this, eventually getting rid of your three initial commands so that he does all three together as soon as he hears "BANG!"

OUR EXPERIENCE

The biggest challenge here is the individual tricks themselves. Caspian had to be well-acquainted with each of the individual tricks, and so we began by drilling them over and over again. The hardest one of these, by far, was limp. Once he was able to perform this consistently, we began to string them together. Once you have the individual tricks down, putting them together isn't as much of a challenge. However, repetition is key, and if you're working on a trick such as Bang as a performance trick for your next barbeque, make sure you drill it over and over again in different parts of the house. We found that Caspian can perform a trick perfectly in one room—but if we try it in a different part of the house, he has trouble. When teaching tricks such as this one, teach in a wide variety of places. Be creative: maybe train some at a local dog park. If your dog can perform amidst all the distractions and interesting things going on around him, you've been highly successful.

TEACHING TROUBLE


My dog will respond, but it takes him too long to get it.
Work with your dog to obey you right as you give this command for a great performance. But if your dog is too excited when you want to show him off, you can still make things fun. If he doesn't respond to "Bang" right away, just shrug and say, "So sometimes I'm not that great of a shot."

Tip: "You could also add 'Speak' as a yelp of pain to make the demonstration even more thrilling!"

Dog Trick- Teach Your Dog To Play Dead

Difficulty: Moderate

This is a famous trick that many dog owners teach their dogs. There are two ways to teach this trick: the first is by catching the behavior with the clicker. Many dogs lay on their backs, especially if they're looking for a belly rub. If you notice your dog doing this often, click this behavior and then associate the action with the command, Play Dead. The second way of teaching this trick is by using the touch stick to shape your dog's behavior. This method is outlined below. Play Dead is a fun trick to teach, and can be used in conjunction with Limp and Crawl for the Bang performance:



Step 1: Have your dog lay down. Take your touch stick, or with your treat in hand, slowly guide it so that your dog moves into the 'Play Dead' position. Click and treat. Repeat until he gets into the 'Play Dead' position without help from the touch stick.

Step 2: Keep repeating the process while saying, "Play Dead!" See if he'll do it at your command.

Step 3: In different training sessions, shape and perfect the trick by only clicking when he is in the exact position you want him to be in (i.e., legs in the air, paws bent, unmoving, etc.).

OUR EXPERIENCE


When I taught Caspian this trick, I started by having him lay down. I slowly moved the touch stick saying softly, "Touch," from one side of his head to the other side to get him to roll onto his back. When he got onto his back, I clicked and treated. I repeated this several times until he understood that he had to roll onto his back to get his treat. I stopped using the touch stick at this point and instead used a hand signal (hold first three fingers out, rotating hand around) as he did his trick each time. At this point, I got picky. I would only treat if he was in the exact position I wanted, with his paws bent and his legs sticking up in the air. Each time he did this, I would click and treat, saying my command, "Play Dead" until he could respond to my command.

TEACHING TROUBLE


He stands up to touch the stick rather than roll over to do it.
This part of the training process depends on you. Be very gentle in your movements and commands. Move the touch stick around slowly as you say in a low voice, "T...o...u...c..h..." If you are slow and steady in your voice and actions, your dog's actions will be less reckless, too!

Tip: "Combine this trick with Limp and Crawl for the 'Bang' performance!"

Dog Trick- Teach Your Dog To Crawl

Difficulty: Moderate

The dog jumps over trenches and dodges humming bullets. The mud is blanketed with a sheet of barbed wire fence, mangled from explosions. He must escape the raining bullets, the thundering explosions. He drops to his belly and crawls underneath the barbed wire. Bullets fly and dent the ground. Clumps of dirt and rock cling to his fur. He crawls, scratches his muzzle on a barb, but still crawls. Crawls to safety.

Whether or not your dog is a movie dog like this one, crawl is an easy trick that yours should know. With it, you can teach all sorts of other tricks—as well as teach him to navigate obstacle courses and other tricks and games. Teaching this trick will also pave the way for teaching 


Step 1: Tell your dog to lay down.
Step 2: With treat in hand, coax your dog to move forward with the touch stick. Make sure he does so while in the down position.
Step 3: Repeat several times. Once your dog is crawling naturally, begin saying 'Crawl' before you click and treat.
Step 4: Try stepping back from your dog and giving him the command, 'Crawl.' Click and jackpot if he responds to 'Crawl.' If not, revert to previous steps.

OUR EXPERIENCE


Teaching Caspian to crawl was one of the first tricks we did when he was a puppy. I remember the very first trick we taught him was Touch, touching the touch-stick on command. The next tricks we taught him were sit and down. And, I believe, the trick that we taught after that was crawl. We wanted to put his new-found knowledge of the touch-stick to good use. Even though he was a puppy, and extremely prone to becoming distracted, he was able to learn this cute trick in only a few training sessions. We first had him lay down. We put the touch stick right in front of him and asked him to touch. I'm sure we expected him to crawl to the touch stick, but that's not what he did. Crawling is hard, so he jumped to his feet to touch the stick. We compensated, and the next time, positioned the touch stick only an inch in front of his nose. As he was lying there in the down position, he stretched forward to touch the stick. We clicked and gave him a really good treat. We continued this method, and gradually moved the touch stick further and further from him. Each time, he would inch forward, and before long, he was crawling to get the touch-stick.

TEACHING TROUBLE


Help! My dog won't crawl forwards to get the treat, but gets up from his "down" position.
Don't ever give him the treat if this happens. This is a trick where you have to exercise patience, and don't get too excited! If you act excited, your dog will get excited too. Make sure you have a great treat to lure and give him commands in low tones. If you have to, you can keep a hand on his body to discourage him from getting up.

Tip: "Use this for dance routines, funny comedy sketches, or to retrieve something in a cramped place too small for a human."
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