1
|
Max
|
2
|
Buddy
|
3
|
Molly
|
4
|
Maggie
|
5
|
Jake
|
6
|
Daisy
|
7
|
Lucy
|
8
|
Rocky
|
9
|
Bailey
|
10
|
Sadie
|
11
|
Ginger
|
12
|
Chloe
|
13
|
Harley
|
14
|
Sophie
|
15
|
Buster
|
16
|
Zoe
|
17
|
Cody
|
18
|
Charlie
|
19
|
Bear
|
20
|
Jack
|
21
|
Princess
|
22
|
Bella
|
23
|
Angel
|
24
|
Toby
|
25
|
Lady
|
26
|
Sasha
|
27
|
Duke
|
28
|
Lucky
|
29
|
Abby
|
30
|
Sam
|
31
|
Roxy
|
32
|
Missy
|
33
|
Brandy
|
34
|
Coco
|
35
|
Shadow
|
36
|
Annie
|
37
|
Katie
|
38
|
Rusty
|
39
|
Samantha
|
40
|
Casey
|
41
|
Murphy
|
42
|
Gracie
|
43
|
Sammy
|
44
|
Zeus
|
45
|
Riley
|
46
|
Rosie
|
47
|
Oscar
|
48
|
Misty
|
49
|
Winston
|
50
|
Emma
|
51
|
Sandy
|
52
|
Tucker
|
53
|
Teddy
|
54
|
Heidi
|
55
|
Gizmo
|
56
|
Samson
|
57
|
Lily
|
58
|
Penny
|
59
|
Oliver
|
60
|
Bandit
|
61
|
Shelby
|
62
|
Madison
|
63
|
Lola
|
64
|
Pepper
|
65
|
Nikki
|
66
|
Belle
|
67
|
Precious
|
68
|
Jasmine
|
69
|
Holly
|
70
|
Chelsea
|
71
|
Amber
|
72
|
Ruby
|
73
|
Dakota
|
74
|
Hunter
|
75
|
Sassy
|
76
|
Beau
|
77
|
Sparky
|
78
|
Sheba
|
79
|
Jackson
|
80
|
Tasha
|
81
|
Cooper
|
82
|
Hannah
|
83
|
Baby
|
84
|
Cleo
|
85
|
Mickey
|
86
|
Rudy
|
87
|
Honey
|
88
|
Cassie
|
89
|
Maximus
|
90
|
Bruno
|
91
|
Dixie
|
92
|
Chester
|
93
|
Spike
|
94
|
Sierra
|
95
|
Simba
|
96
|
Sugar
|
97
|
Gus
|
98
|
Harry
|
99
|
Moose
|
100
|
Rascal
|
12/10/12
Top 100 name of dog so great
More about The Blue Heeler dog
The Blue Heeler, also recognized as the Australian Cattle Dog, Queensland Heeler and Red Heeler is a breed of herding dog developed for herding in Australia. Australian George Elliott developed this breed in 1840 by mixing Collies and native Dingoes with other herding dogs. The Blue Heeler is adored by Australian ranchers and cattlemen because of the breed's work ethic and toughness. These dogs rapidly became well-liked as cattle herders.
The height of the Blue Heelers is 17-20 inches and the weight ranges from 30-35 pounds. Blue Heelers come in blue merle or red speckle. Blue merle is blue or blue-mottle with or without blue, tan or black markings on the head with tan. This breed's coat is waterproof and short and needs brushing only when necessary.
The Blue Heeler is an intelligent, high-energy and active dog. They are not satisfied with just sitting about the house for hours continuously. This breed will persuade you to go outside with them for play and exercise.
Blue Heelers can be one person dogs, like most herding breeds. They as well have an exclusive independence and do not have a need of hugging or affection. This breed will be grateful for positive feedback and proper handling, though firm and tough. At times, the Blue Heeler's herding nature can abruptly show up. They may try to "herd" their human family and nip gently at their heels if the dog desires something.
If nipping tends to be a problem, a toy can resolve this dilemma. Make sure it is a tough one since Blue Heelers can destroy a usual dog toy to shreds in minutes. Always keep your Blue Heeler on a leash since they are extremely inquisitive and love to wander and roam. In addition, they will sometimes have problems with dogs that they don't know.
The Blue Heeler is not a barker but they are nonetheless very protecting of their home. This breed can be guarded and distrustful-a trait that enables them to be outstanding watchdogs. These dogs are sociable and affectionate companions as well.
Blue Heelers require activities, responsibilities and tons of room to run and play, consequently, they are not appropriate for apartment living. This breed is capable of getting into mischief and destructiveness. Blue Heelers are capable of being easily trained and they require a firm hand managing them so that they don't form a relationship with another dominant dog in the neighborhood.
A Blue Heeler in good physical shape usually lives 12-15 years. A few common health concerns with Blue Heelers consist of hip dysplasia, eye problems and deafness.
If you are looking for a strong, intelligent, high-energy dog that loves to work for you, then the Blue Heeler might be the dog for you.
Before You Adopt a Dog
Ask trainer Sue Sternberg where you should get a dog and, without hesitation, she'll tell you to go to an animal shelter. She should know as a nationally recognized dog trainer and owner of Rondout Valley Kennels, a boarding kennel, training and behavior center, and private shelter in Accord, New York, she regularly works with shelters across the country, and counsels families who have adopted from them.
In addition, Sternberg has produced several booklets and videotapes about issues specific to shelter dogs and shelter dog adoption. The booklets include Temperament Testing for Dogs in Shelters and A Guide to Choosing your Next Dog from the Shelter; the videos include The Controversial Pit Bull about temperament testing Pit Bulls in shelters, and Training Your Shelter Dog. She also is a frequent and popular speaker at all sorts of dog-related venues.
Setting aside all of the arguments for buying a puppy from a breeder, Sternberg emphatically pronounces that you should adopt a dog from a shelter because, as she says, 'it's the right thing to do. Because there are great dogs in animal shelters, and because dogs in shelters need homes. There is no need to get a puppy from a breeder in order to raise it right getting your dog at an early age is no guarantee of how he will turn out. Plus, you can find all the great qualities you could ever want in a shelter mixed-breed dog or puppy, or in one of the thousands of purebreds waiting in shelters on any given day.
Of course, there are plenty of canine train wrecks desperately seeking homes in animal shelters as well dogs who will cause heartache and trauma for the average dog owner. Sternberg offers tips to help prospective adopters find the diamonds in the rough world of animal sheltering.
Before you visit a shelterThere are a number of steps you need to take before you even set foot inside the shelter door. Doing some pre-visit homework can greatly increase your odds of finding the perfect pup. Here are Sternberg's suggestions:
Visit Petfinder on-line, This web site lists shelters across the country, and can pinpoint the ones in your area starting with those closest to you. You can also search for specific breeds or breed mixes.
Caution: If all dogs on a particular shelter's website are described the same way (sweet, friendly, loving) then the shelter probably doesn't know the personalities of their dogs very well, or chooses not to be forthcoming with the information. This would be a good shelter to avoid.
Petfinder is not a complete list of all shelters, so you also need to check your local phone book for others in your area. You should be willing to travel a good distance, as much as three hours or more, to find the right dog at the right shelter.
Contact the shelters on your list and ask about their return policy. A good shelter will always accept any dog as a return that they have adopted out at any time in his life, for whatever reason the owner may be unable to keep him. You should not expect a refund if you must return your dog, but shelters that refuse to take a dog back after 30 days (or whatever time limit) are not accepting full responsibility for the lives that pass through their hands.
Ask the shelters about their adoption procedures. You will want to be able to visit with your prospective new family member outside of the kennel. If that is not allowed by a shelter, cross that one off your list.
Ask the shelters about their criteria for making dogs available for adoption. Good shelters do temperament testing, and do not make dogs available who have a prior history of biting. Some dogs are not appropriate for our human society. A shelter who places all dogs up for adoption and never euthanizes is doing a disservice to potential adopters. Don't go to such a shelter.
Sit in on a dog training class (or several). Find a trainer you like, who is kind to dogs and motivates them with treats, toys, and praise. (A selection of trainers from across the country is available from the APDT Trainer Locator at www.apdt.com.) Ask the instructor for good shelter referrals. If there are students in the class with shelter dogs, ask them which shelter they adopted from and what their experiences were. Avoid shelters where others have had negative experiences.
Talk to the trainer you like about accompanying you to the shelter to select a dog. You should expect to pay a fee for this service, so you may want to arrange to have her visit with you once you find one or more possible adoption candidates.
When you do start visiting shelters, look beyond a slick exterior. A good shelter is made up by people who care, and the good dogs in their kennels. There are lots of old, rundown, dark and damp shelters that have great dogs and are staffed by wonderful people, and there are others that are just as wretched as they look. There are also bright, pretty, high-tech modern shelters that treat people and animals well, and still others that are all window-dressing, forgetting to treat their human and canine clients with compassion.
Avoid rigid preconceptions about what kind (age, breed, sex, size, color, coat length) of dog you want. Be prepared to enter the shelter with an open mind. Size, for example, is not a good indicator of energy level or adaptability to a small house many large dogs are better suited to apartment life than are the typically high-energy but small Jack Russell Terriers.
The shelter visitAlthough it's best to avoid preconceptions about what model of dog you are looking for, Sternberg advises that it is very important to know what to look for behaviorally. 'A high level of sociability will contribute more to a dog's success in a home than any other trait, Sternberg says. 'Overall, be looking for a dog that really likes people and wants to be with them, who is affectionate, congenial, and bonds easily and strongly. These are the dogs who are most fun, and the least worry to live with.
Stand firm on this behavior criteria as you progress through Sternberg's 12-step program for adoption success:
As you enter the shelter, get a reading on the attitude of staff and volunteers. Are you greeted warmly and treated well? If you are asked to fill out a questionnaire, are the interviewers genuinely interested in who you are and helping you find the right dog, or are you grilled like a criminal? Any concerns about your answers should be used to help educate, not condemn you. If you feel like you are getting the thumbscrews and third-degree, leave. It would be almost impossible to concentrate on your task in an environment like this.
When you enter the kennels, make a quick pass through without stopping to schmooze the dogs. Pen and paper in hand, make note of any dogs that stand out for you. Ideally, you might find four or five who do.
On your second pass-through, stop and visit with each of the dogs you noted. Put your hand up to the kennel wire or bars. The dog should readily come up to visit you and sniff your hand. Remember, these dogs are socially deprived, and should be seeking your attention. When a candidate sniffs your hand, tell him he's a good dog, and move your hand back and forth, slowly, several times, about five inches each way. A social dog will follow your hand. Remember, you want a social dog a well-socialized, outgoing, and friendly dog is the least liable to be aggressive. If the dog jumps at your faces, barks at you, lunges or, alternatively clings to or retreats to the back of the kennel, cross him off your list and move on to the next dog.
When you have identified the dogs on your list who are very social, take them out of their kennels one at a time, to a quiet room if possible. (Not all shelters can provide this luxury. Do the best you can find a relatively quiet corner somewhere.) Stand with the dog for five minutes, and totally ignore him. The dog should look at you in a warm way, and try to worm his way into your affections leaning on you, nudging, licking, trying to cuddle. Jumping up is okay if it is done as attention-seeking, not in an attempt to bowl you off your feet as he bounces away from you. If an employee is with you and the dog is seeking attention from the employee, that's okay it just means the dog has already formed a bond with that person. If in five minutes the dog shows little or no interest in you or in other humans who are with you, put him back. He is not a good candidate.
If he is very social, pet him slowly and gently down his back. He should stand still and enjoy this, or lean into you, seeking more contact. If he shakes you off after you've touched him ('Yuck, people cooties!) or moves or lunges away from your touch, he's telling you he doesn't like being petted, or being around you. This dog is at risk for being aggressive anytime people touch him in a way that offends him. Put him back.
If he passes the petting test, ask a shelter staff member if you can feed him a meal a small bowl of kibble, or a handful of biscuits that you brought with you. You want to test him for resource guarding another behavior that puts him at high risk for biting. Put a bowl of food or pile of treats on the floor, enough that it will take him about 45 seconds to finish it. Now (BE CAREFUL!) talk to him, then pet him gently on the back. (Do not try to take the food away!) You want him to wag his tail, wag his tail harder, or even stop and look at you as if to say, 'Hi! I'm eating right now, I'll be back with you shortly. He may even stop eating and prefer to be with you. However, if he stiffens, blocks you with his body, glares at you, lowers his head into the dish, growls, or tries to move the food away from you, he is a resource guarder, and not a good adoption choice.
If he passes the first food test, up the ante. Ask the shelter staff if you can give him a chew hoof, pig ear, rawhide, or some other very valuable object. Again, you want to see if he is cooperative or competitive with this resource. Slowly move toward him and look for any of the guarding signs described in the previous step. If you see them, stop the test. If not, slowly reach for the object from a distance of at least two feet, then jerk your hand back. Repeat this step three times. You are looking for a dog who is relaxed about your approach. If you see any signs of guarding, don't adopt. Have the staff person retrieve the valuable object and put the dog away.
If the dog is still with you, your next step is to pet him all over. He should actively enjoy being petted, perhaps wag his tail, even lick you. He should not mouth you, even gently. If he does, put him away. Mouthiness, even done gently, is a sign of resistance, and may escalate to a bite if someone, such as a child, ignores the sign and keeps on petting or touching.
Now take out a toy (that you brought with you for this purpose, or one that the shelter provides, if they prefer) and see if he will play some sort of game with you: fetch, tug-o-war, or chase. Play the game for three to four minutes enough to get him excited and aroused. Then abruptly stop the play, and put the toy up, preferably on a shelf where he can see it. Take note of how long it takes him to disengage from playing and return to you to settle and socialize, perhaps sit or lie down next to you. Ideally, he will do this within two minutes. If he is still aroused after five minutes, put him away. This is the kind of energy level that the average dog household is not equipped to deal with. (If, on the other hand, you are looking for the next World Frisbee or Agility Champion, he might be a candidate.)
Take the dog for a walk on leash, outside if possible. Don't worry if he pulls, or is very distracted these are behaviors that are normal for shelter dogs, and can be retrained. Do watch for aggressive behavior toward other dogs or people while he is on leash. If you see any, put him away and cross him off your list.
If this dog is still on your list when your walk is done, have a staff person put him back in his kennel, then watch him as other strangers pass by,especially children, big men, and anyone who moves or dresses oddly. Avoid a dog who barks or lunges at anyone who walks by this is a sign of inadequate socialization. If your dog will be around children, look for a dog who wants to greet passing children first. A dog who will live with children must worship little humans, not just tolerate them.
If you still have one or more candidates in the running, ask the shelter staff if you can put them on temporary hold while you make arrangements to return with your kids and spouse (if you have them) and trainer. You may also want to bring your current dog, if you have one, so your trainer can help with the first introduction. Shelter staff may tell you that they can't put a dog on hold, because if someone else wants to adopt in the meantime and you don't return for some reason, he might miss out on his best chance for a home. This is reasonable. However, they should be willing to note that you are interested on the dog's paperwork, and give you a reasonable amount of time to return, so the dog isn't selected for euthanasia before you can get back with your crew in tow. When you do return, your trainer will be able to help you make an educated final decision about which of the dogs on your short list is the best choice for a long relationship with your family.
Pit Bulls: How to Separate the Time Bombs from
the Tender Buddies
Twenty-five years ago, Pit Bulls were an unusual sight in animal shelters. They exploded onto the scene in the 1980s, and today it's a rare shelter that doesn't include one or more of these distinctive and powerful dogs in its kennel population at any given time. Their history as fighting dogs, their recent record as one of the breeds most responsible for human dog-bite fatalities (surpassed only recently by Rottweilers), and their potential for mayhem has landed them in the middle of an intense debate about the breed's suitability as a companion animal.
At one time, shelters almost universally euthanized all Pit Bulls that were in their custody. Over time, that position has softened, and while some shelters still refuse to place Pit Bulls for adoption, others routinely do, with screening protocols that vary in rigor.
Sue Sternberg has had extensive experience with surrendered and stray Pit Bulls and Pit Bull mixes and has strong opinions about the dogs. This isn't unusual; join any debate about Pit Bulls, and you will encounter devotees who swear that they would trust their Pit Bulls to baby-sit their firstborn heir, and at the opposite extreme, parents who turn deathly pale and snatch up their children at the sight of any dog that even remotely resembles a Pit. Sternberg has seen many dogs that deserve the former reaction sweet, devoted, tolerant dogs as well as dogs that deserve the latter reaction aloof, dominant, and aggressive animals.
'There are many appropriate and lovely Pit Bulls and Pit mixes, she says. 'But because they are so strong and have such potential to do damage, however, you need to be more careful when adopting one. These are very athletic and physical dogs, far more capable than the average Beagle or Cocker Spaniel of doing serious damage, if and when they do choose to bite.
Last year, Sternberg produced an 80-minute videotape, 'The Controversial Pit Bull, that explores the differences between Pits and Pit-mixes and most non-Pit shelter dogs. The video puts special emphasis on observing and temperament testing Pit Bulls in order to weed out potentially dangerous dogs from the candidates for placement in homes. This is especially important with Pit Bulls, because, Sternberg explains, 'At first glance, there may not be any discernible differences between a good Pit and a scary one; the average owner will think that both dogs are just being effusively friendly. Most Pit Bulls will greet you by wriggling all over and wagging their tails exuberantly, their tongues hanging out with big grins. A temperament problem is more evident in most other dogs; in Pit Bulls, it's very hard for the average person to appreciate until it's too late.
Fortunately, there are some subtle but important differences in the behavior of Pit Bulls with latent aggressive tendencies, and Sternberg often presents lectures to shelter and training professionals on recognizing those differences. To name just a few, some of the behaviors that Sternberg regards as signs of a potentially aggressive dog include:
A dog who is quick to arouse (the dog becomes fully animated and competitive after just a moment or two of engagement with a toy or game) and slow to calm down.
A dog who repeatedly avoids petting or mild restraint, moving forcefully away, shaking you off, or using his mouth (even in a gentle way) to avoid or escape your touch.
Most Pits love to play tug-of-war, but look out for dogs who quickly and repeatedly 're-grip, climbing up the rope in an effort to get it away from you, or, worse, leap at your hand or arm to gain control of the game.
Sternberg recommends that anyone adopting a Pit Bull or, for that matter, any of the 'big, macho breeds confer with a professional trainer/behavior consultant. 'My rule of thumb is that if you are selecting a dog that is heavier or stronger than any of your family members, talk to a pro first, she advises.
If you choose to own a Pit Bull, your already significant responsibilities as a dog owner are magnified, both by the dog's potential as well as by the eye of public scrutiny. When it comes to Pit Bulls, many people will leap to condemn a behavior that might be overlooked in a different breed of dog. And, face it: A mistake in judgment with even small dogs can have serious consequences. A judgment lapse with a Pit Bull can prove deadly.
But What About the Others?
Some people who are familiar with Sternberg's shelter dog selection criteria and temperament testing procedure regard her methods as overcautious and too restrictive. If everyone followed Sternberg's guidelines, some say, an awful lot of shelter dogs would get passed over and be euthanized.
Sternberg admits that her guidelines are designed for the least common denominator; the average adopter from a shelter is a family with children, perhaps with another dog already, perhaps with a cat in the household, whose parents are relatively inexperienced in handling and training dogs. If followed to a T, her guidelines will identify the dogs who have the greatest potential for success in any household a friendly, confident dog who really likes people, and does not have any blatant tendencies toward resource guarding or aggression. She also recognizes that some of the dogs that would be cast aside by her evaluation would make great canine companions in the right (experienced, perhaps dog-, cat-, and kid-free) hands and homes. But these homes are in short supply.
And, in fact, an awful lot of shelter dogs do get euthanized. The current estimate is that 3 to 4 million dogs are put to death in shelters in this country every year. Many are euthanized after being returned to a shelter several times in succession, after not adjusting well to several homes, after breaking the hearts of several families in the process, and stressing the dog repeatedly.
If dogs must be euthanized until this country's pet overpopulation problem is solved, it is by far the lesser of two evils that the best dogs be adopted to lifelong loving homes, rather than dogs with serious behavior problems who are recycled through numerous homes, with rare success.
Besides, some of the dogs with more challenging behaviors will be adopted by experienced owners who are prepared to direct high energy and assertive personalities into appropriate channels. Others will be adopted by well-intentioned and kindhearted folks who resign themselves to managing difficult behaviors for the rest of their dogs' lives.
When you find yourself feeling sorry for the poor, unsocialized dog huddling in the back of her kennel, or tempted by the challenge of the dog who avoids your advances, stop and think about it. You and your family are making a commitment to this dog for the next 10 to 15 years of your lives. You can look forward to 10 to 15 years of joy, sharing a bond with your dog that is based on mutual trust and respect, or you can face the prospect of a decade or more of headache and heartache while you manage difficult behaviors. You decide which is the right thing to do.
In addition, Sternberg has produced several booklets and videotapes about issues specific to shelter dogs and shelter dog adoption. The booklets include Temperament Testing for Dogs in Shelters and A Guide to Choosing your Next Dog from the Shelter; the videos include The Controversial Pit Bull about temperament testing Pit Bulls in shelters, and Training Your Shelter Dog. She also is a frequent and popular speaker at all sorts of dog-related venues.
Setting aside all of the arguments for buying a puppy from a breeder, Sternberg emphatically pronounces that you should adopt a dog from a shelter because, as she says, 'it's the right thing to do. Because there are great dogs in animal shelters, and because dogs in shelters need homes. There is no need to get a puppy from a breeder in order to raise it right getting your dog at an early age is no guarantee of how he will turn out. Plus, you can find all the great qualities you could ever want in a shelter mixed-breed dog or puppy, or in one of the thousands of purebreds waiting in shelters on any given day.
Of course, there are plenty of canine train wrecks desperately seeking homes in animal shelters as well dogs who will cause heartache and trauma for the average dog owner. Sternberg offers tips to help prospective adopters find the diamonds in the rough world of animal sheltering.
Before you visit a shelterThere are a number of steps you need to take before you even set foot inside the shelter door. Doing some pre-visit homework can greatly increase your odds of finding the perfect pup. Here are Sternberg's suggestions:
Visit Petfinder on-line, This web site lists shelters across the country, and can pinpoint the ones in your area starting with those closest to you. You can also search for specific breeds or breed mixes.
Caution: If all dogs on a particular shelter's website are described the same way (sweet, friendly, loving) then the shelter probably doesn't know the personalities of their dogs very well, or chooses not to be forthcoming with the information. This would be a good shelter to avoid.
Petfinder is not a complete list of all shelters, so you also need to check your local phone book for others in your area. You should be willing to travel a good distance, as much as three hours or more, to find the right dog at the right shelter.
Contact the shelters on your list and ask about their return policy. A good shelter will always accept any dog as a return that they have adopted out at any time in his life, for whatever reason the owner may be unable to keep him. You should not expect a refund if you must return your dog, but shelters that refuse to take a dog back after 30 days (or whatever time limit) are not accepting full responsibility for the lives that pass through their hands.
Ask the shelters about their adoption procedures. You will want to be able to visit with your prospective new family member outside of the kennel. If that is not allowed by a shelter, cross that one off your list.
Ask the shelters about their criteria for making dogs available for adoption. Good shelters do temperament testing, and do not make dogs available who have a prior history of biting. Some dogs are not appropriate for our human society. A shelter who places all dogs up for adoption and never euthanizes is doing a disservice to potential adopters. Don't go to such a shelter.
Sit in on a dog training class (or several). Find a trainer you like, who is kind to dogs and motivates them with treats, toys, and praise. (A selection of trainers from across the country is available from the APDT Trainer Locator at www.apdt.com.) Ask the instructor for good shelter referrals. If there are students in the class with shelter dogs, ask them which shelter they adopted from and what their experiences were. Avoid shelters where others have had negative experiences.
Talk to the trainer you like about accompanying you to the shelter to select a dog. You should expect to pay a fee for this service, so you may want to arrange to have her visit with you once you find one or more possible adoption candidates.
When you do start visiting shelters, look beyond a slick exterior. A good shelter is made up by people who care, and the good dogs in their kennels. There are lots of old, rundown, dark and damp shelters that have great dogs and are staffed by wonderful people, and there are others that are just as wretched as they look. There are also bright, pretty, high-tech modern shelters that treat people and animals well, and still others that are all window-dressing, forgetting to treat their human and canine clients with compassion.
Avoid rigid preconceptions about what kind (age, breed, sex, size, color, coat length) of dog you want. Be prepared to enter the shelter with an open mind. Size, for example, is not a good indicator of energy level or adaptability to a small house many large dogs are better suited to apartment life than are the typically high-energy but small Jack Russell Terriers.
The shelter visitAlthough it's best to avoid preconceptions about what model of dog you are looking for, Sternberg advises that it is very important to know what to look for behaviorally. 'A high level of sociability will contribute more to a dog's success in a home than any other trait, Sternberg says. 'Overall, be looking for a dog that really likes people and wants to be with them, who is affectionate, congenial, and bonds easily and strongly. These are the dogs who are most fun, and the least worry to live with.
Stand firm on this behavior criteria as you progress through Sternberg's 12-step program for adoption success:
As you enter the shelter, get a reading on the attitude of staff and volunteers. Are you greeted warmly and treated well? If you are asked to fill out a questionnaire, are the interviewers genuinely interested in who you are and helping you find the right dog, or are you grilled like a criminal? Any concerns about your answers should be used to help educate, not condemn you. If you feel like you are getting the thumbscrews and third-degree, leave. It would be almost impossible to concentrate on your task in an environment like this.
When you enter the kennels, make a quick pass through without stopping to schmooze the dogs. Pen and paper in hand, make note of any dogs that stand out for you. Ideally, you might find four or five who do.
On your second pass-through, stop and visit with each of the dogs you noted. Put your hand up to the kennel wire or bars. The dog should readily come up to visit you and sniff your hand. Remember, these dogs are socially deprived, and should be seeking your attention. When a candidate sniffs your hand, tell him he's a good dog, and move your hand back and forth, slowly, several times, about five inches each way. A social dog will follow your hand. Remember, you want a social dog a well-socialized, outgoing, and friendly dog is the least liable to be aggressive. If the dog jumps at your faces, barks at you, lunges or, alternatively clings to or retreats to the back of the kennel, cross him off your list and move on to the next dog.
When you have identified the dogs on your list who are very social, take them out of their kennels one at a time, to a quiet room if possible. (Not all shelters can provide this luxury. Do the best you can find a relatively quiet corner somewhere.) Stand with the dog for five minutes, and totally ignore him. The dog should look at you in a warm way, and try to worm his way into your affections leaning on you, nudging, licking, trying to cuddle. Jumping up is okay if it is done as attention-seeking, not in an attempt to bowl you off your feet as he bounces away from you. If an employee is with you and the dog is seeking attention from the employee, that's okay it just means the dog has already formed a bond with that person. If in five minutes the dog shows little or no interest in you or in other humans who are with you, put him back. He is not a good candidate.
If he is very social, pet him slowly and gently down his back. He should stand still and enjoy this, or lean into you, seeking more contact. If he shakes you off after you've touched him ('Yuck, people cooties!) or moves or lunges away from your touch, he's telling you he doesn't like being petted, or being around you. This dog is at risk for being aggressive anytime people touch him in a way that offends him. Put him back.
If he passes the petting test, ask a shelter staff member if you can feed him a meal a small bowl of kibble, or a handful of biscuits that you brought with you. You want to test him for resource guarding another behavior that puts him at high risk for biting. Put a bowl of food or pile of treats on the floor, enough that it will take him about 45 seconds to finish it. Now (BE CAREFUL!) talk to him, then pet him gently on the back. (Do not try to take the food away!) You want him to wag his tail, wag his tail harder, or even stop and look at you as if to say, 'Hi! I'm eating right now, I'll be back with you shortly. He may even stop eating and prefer to be with you. However, if he stiffens, blocks you with his body, glares at you, lowers his head into the dish, growls, or tries to move the food away from you, he is a resource guarder, and not a good adoption choice.
If he passes the first food test, up the ante. Ask the shelter staff if you can give him a chew hoof, pig ear, rawhide, or some other very valuable object. Again, you want to see if he is cooperative or competitive with this resource. Slowly move toward him and look for any of the guarding signs described in the previous step. If you see them, stop the test. If not, slowly reach for the object from a distance of at least two feet, then jerk your hand back. Repeat this step three times. You are looking for a dog who is relaxed about your approach. If you see any signs of guarding, don't adopt. Have the staff person retrieve the valuable object and put the dog away.
If the dog is still with you, your next step is to pet him all over. He should actively enjoy being petted, perhaps wag his tail, even lick you. He should not mouth you, even gently. If he does, put him away. Mouthiness, even done gently, is a sign of resistance, and may escalate to a bite if someone, such as a child, ignores the sign and keeps on petting or touching.
Now take out a toy (that you brought with you for this purpose, or one that the shelter provides, if they prefer) and see if he will play some sort of game with you: fetch, tug-o-war, or chase. Play the game for three to four minutes enough to get him excited and aroused. Then abruptly stop the play, and put the toy up, preferably on a shelf where he can see it. Take note of how long it takes him to disengage from playing and return to you to settle and socialize, perhaps sit or lie down next to you. Ideally, he will do this within two minutes. If he is still aroused after five minutes, put him away. This is the kind of energy level that the average dog household is not equipped to deal with. (If, on the other hand, you are looking for the next World Frisbee or Agility Champion, he might be a candidate.)
Take the dog for a walk on leash, outside if possible. Don't worry if he pulls, or is very distracted these are behaviors that are normal for shelter dogs, and can be retrained. Do watch for aggressive behavior toward other dogs or people while he is on leash. If you see any, put him away and cross him off your list.
If this dog is still on your list when your walk is done, have a staff person put him back in his kennel, then watch him as other strangers pass by,especially children, big men, and anyone who moves or dresses oddly. Avoid a dog who barks or lunges at anyone who walks by this is a sign of inadequate socialization. If your dog will be around children, look for a dog who wants to greet passing children first. A dog who will live with children must worship little humans, not just tolerate them.
If you still have one or more candidates in the running, ask the shelter staff if you can put them on temporary hold while you make arrangements to return with your kids and spouse (if you have them) and trainer. You may also want to bring your current dog, if you have one, so your trainer can help with the first introduction. Shelter staff may tell you that they can't put a dog on hold, because if someone else wants to adopt in the meantime and you don't return for some reason, he might miss out on his best chance for a home. This is reasonable. However, they should be willing to note that you are interested on the dog's paperwork, and give you a reasonable amount of time to return, so the dog isn't selected for euthanasia before you can get back with your crew in tow. When you do return, your trainer will be able to help you make an educated final decision about which of the dogs on your short list is the best choice for a long relationship with your family.
Pit Bulls: How to Separate the Time Bombs from
the Tender Buddies
Twenty-five years ago, Pit Bulls were an unusual sight in animal shelters. They exploded onto the scene in the 1980s, and today it's a rare shelter that doesn't include one or more of these distinctive and powerful dogs in its kennel population at any given time. Their history as fighting dogs, their recent record as one of the breeds most responsible for human dog-bite fatalities (surpassed only recently by Rottweilers), and their potential for mayhem has landed them in the middle of an intense debate about the breed's suitability as a companion animal.
At one time, shelters almost universally euthanized all Pit Bulls that were in their custody. Over time, that position has softened, and while some shelters still refuse to place Pit Bulls for adoption, others routinely do, with screening protocols that vary in rigor.
Sue Sternberg has had extensive experience with surrendered and stray Pit Bulls and Pit Bull mixes and has strong opinions about the dogs. This isn't unusual; join any debate about Pit Bulls, and you will encounter devotees who swear that they would trust their Pit Bulls to baby-sit their firstborn heir, and at the opposite extreme, parents who turn deathly pale and snatch up their children at the sight of any dog that even remotely resembles a Pit. Sternberg has seen many dogs that deserve the former reaction sweet, devoted, tolerant dogs as well as dogs that deserve the latter reaction aloof, dominant, and aggressive animals.
'There are many appropriate and lovely Pit Bulls and Pit mixes, she says. 'But because they are so strong and have such potential to do damage, however, you need to be more careful when adopting one. These are very athletic and physical dogs, far more capable than the average Beagle or Cocker Spaniel of doing serious damage, if and when they do choose to bite.
Last year, Sternberg produced an 80-minute videotape, 'The Controversial Pit Bull, that explores the differences between Pits and Pit-mixes and most non-Pit shelter dogs. The video puts special emphasis on observing and temperament testing Pit Bulls in order to weed out potentially dangerous dogs from the candidates for placement in homes. This is especially important with Pit Bulls, because, Sternberg explains, 'At first glance, there may not be any discernible differences between a good Pit and a scary one; the average owner will think that both dogs are just being effusively friendly. Most Pit Bulls will greet you by wriggling all over and wagging their tails exuberantly, their tongues hanging out with big grins. A temperament problem is more evident in most other dogs; in Pit Bulls, it's very hard for the average person to appreciate until it's too late.
Fortunately, there are some subtle but important differences in the behavior of Pit Bulls with latent aggressive tendencies, and Sternberg often presents lectures to shelter and training professionals on recognizing those differences. To name just a few, some of the behaviors that Sternberg regards as signs of a potentially aggressive dog include:
A dog who is quick to arouse (the dog becomes fully animated and competitive after just a moment or two of engagement with a toy or game) and slow to calm down.
A dog who repeatedly avoids petting or mild restraint, moving forcefully away, shaking you off, or using his mouth (even in a gentle way) to avoid or escape your touch.
Most Pits love to play tug-of-war, but look out for dogs who quickly and repeatedly 're-grip, climbing up the rope in an effort to get it away from you, or, worse, leap at your hand or arm to gain control of the game.
Sternberg recommends that anyone adopting a Pit Bull or, for that matter, any of the 'big, macho breeds confer with a professional trainer/behavior consultant. 'My rule of thumb is that if you are selecting a dog that is heavier or stronger than any of your family members, talk to a pro first, she advises.
If you choose to own a Pit Bull, your already significant responsibilities as a dog owner are magnified, both by the dog's potential as well as by the eye of public scrutiny. When it comes to Pit Bulls, many people will leap to condemn a behavior that might be overlooked in a different breed of dog. And, face it: A mistake in judgment with even small dogs can have serious consequences. A judgment lapse with a Pit Bull can prove deadly.
But What About the Others?
Some people who are familiar with Sternberg's shelter dog selection criteria and temperament testing procedure regard her methods as overcautious and too restrictive. If everyone followed Sternberg's guidelines, some say, an awful lot of shelter dogs would get passed over and be euthanized.
Sternberg admits that her guidelines are designed for the least common denominator; the average adopter from a shelter is a family with children, perhaps with another dog already, perhaps with a cat in the household, whose parents are relatively inexperienced in handling and training dogs. If followed to a T, her guidelines will identify the dogs who have the greatest potential for success in any household a friendly, confident dog who really likes people, and does not have any blatant tendencies toward resource guarding or aggression. She also recognizes that some of the dogs that would be cast aside by her evaluation would make great canine companions in the right (experienced, perhaps dog-, cat-, and kid-free) hands and homes. But these homes are in short supply.
And, in fact, an awful lot of shelter dogs do get euthanized. The current estimate is that 3 to 4 million dogs are put to death in shelters in this country every year. Many are euthanized after being returned to a shelter several times in succession, after not adjusting well to several homes, after breaking the hearts of several families in the process, and stressing the dog repeatedly.
If dogs must be euthanized until this country's pet overpopulation problem is solved, it is by far the lesser of two evils that the best dogs be adopted to lifelong loving homes, rather than dogs with serious behavior problems who are recycled through numerous homes, with rare success.
Besides, some of the dogs with more challenging behaviors will be adopted by experienced owners who are prepared to direct high energy and assertive personalities into appropriate channels. Others will be adopted by well-intentioned and kindhearted folks who resign themselves to managing difficult behaviors for the rest of their dogs' lives.
When you find yourself feeling sorry for the poor, unsocialized dog huddling in the back of her kennel, or tempted by the challenge of the dog who avoids your advances, stop and think about it. You and your family are making a commitment to this dog for the next 10 to 15 years of your lives. You can look forward to 10 to 15 years of joy, sharing a bond with your dog that is based on mutual trust and respect, or you can face the prospect of a decade or more of headache and heartache while you manage difficult behaviors. You decide which is the right thing to do.
Choosing a dog
Dogsindepth: The Online Dog EncyclopediaChoosing a Dog for Your Lifestyle
So you are considering getting a dog.
Choosing a dog is a big decision. This guide to Choosing a Dog for Your Lifestyle offers you all the information you need to make the best decision when choosing a dog.
Did you know it's not just choosing a dog, it’s adding a new being into your life? Depending upon the age of a dog, their needs are similar to that of a new baby, a spouse or an elderly person. A dog needs food, shelter, exercise, grooming, health care and companionship. Some dogs need less, some dogs need more, but each and every dog requires at least these things from you. A dog is a commitment in time and money. A dog is a long-term permanent responsibility.
There are enough folks who go out of their way to bring suffering to a dog. You may have good intentions for getting a dog, but be sure you are not buying on a whim, that you are quite ready, meaning that should you ever need to undergo a change of living space, or get married and have children, you will be able to keep your dog with you. Surprisingly, one of the top 10 reasons why dogs and puppies are surrendered to shelters each year is due to "lifestyle change".
Most dogs and puppies that end up in pounds or kill shelters are euthanized. In the U.S. alone, it is estimated that 8-10 million dogs and puppies are euthanized each year at the cost to the taxpayers of $2 billion dollars per year.
When surrendering a dog, should it have health problems, disclose the information. If it is a contractible illness don't jeopardize the health of the other dogs and puppies in the facility. Don't cause your dog or puppy added suffering by denying them their medication. It will also give a potential adopter the information they need to better care for your former dog or puppy.
Here is a brief overview of what owning a dog would require.
First consider why you might want a dog.
as a family pet
as an active companion
for sport - hunting, retrieving, obedience trials
for protection
for police work or rescue
for assistance
for show competitions
Consider whether you are home enough to prevent your dog from being lonely. Dogs are social creatures and enjoy company. Depending on the breed, you might consider having two dogs so they can keep each other company if you are away from home for long hours.
Consider whether you are or are not active. Will determine your choosing a dog with a laid back demeanor or a very active one.
Consider who else might be affected. Take into consideration when choosing a dog the other family members, family members yet to come, family members with allergies, other pets, your landlord, neighbors or others if you live in an apartment building that may be affected.
Consider the financial costs of owning a dog.
Price to purchase
Dog food
Healthcare – shots, spay, neuter, medications (including flea, tick, wormer) - dogs suffer from many of the same illnesses as humans: cancers, blindness, heart disease, cataracts, epilepsy, hip dysplasia, deafness
Equipment – dog food and water bowls, dog bedding, dog collars, leash, licensing, ID tags, dog toys, clothes
Grooming – hair and tooth brushes, combs, dog nail clippers, shampoos, toothpaste, dog skin and ear care products
Medical procedures - extended veterinary costs
Consider the commitment of time.
Regular affection - a dog will need and demand it of you
Feeding - a dog needs food and fresh water every day
Exercising - some dog breeds require high levels of exercise
Grooming - some dogs require hours of grooming to maintain cleanliness
Training - some dogs or puppies require more patience to train
Administering medications if needed
Consider how you might obtain a dog.
Wherever, inspect the premises for cleanliness. If you cannot travel to the location of the litter and inspect the premises, ask for references and contact them regarding the dog breeder or rescue organization.
•rescues – some folks think only bad dogs are given up, but that is not the case. There are many wonderful dogs waiting in shelters - with or without pedigrees - simply because they acted like their breed or in a manner their owner didn’t expect, or because there was a lifestyle change - the family had to move, there was a breakup, a downsize of living space, a family member developed an allergy, a new baby has taken up their time, or their owner has become ill or disabled.
•shelters/pound - these dogs and pups are in most need of adoption since they are on death row. Try to find out all you can about the dog or puppy, there might be health or vet records available. Do not adopt simply on the word of the shelter staff. Bring as many family members down to the shelter/pound and vigorously interact with the dog to gauge its level of sociability.
•a small kennel / hobby breeder - that has few litters per year and offers only one or two breeds, exerts the effort to hold and socialize the pups and breeds and screens to prevent such illnesses as: cancers, blindness, heart disease, cataracts, epilepsy, hip dysplasia and deafness. Ask how long they have been breeding a particular breed. Ask them what happens if you cannot keep the puppy or dog. Will they take it back? A good way to find a reputable breeder is to get a referral from a rescue organization recommended by a national kennel club.
So you are considering getting a dog.
Choosing a dog is a big decision. This guide to Choosing a Dog for Your Lifestyle offers you all the information you need to make the best decision when choosing a dog.
Did you know it's not just choosing a dog, it’s adding a new being into your life? Depending upon the age of a dog, their needs are similar to that of a new baby, a spouse or an elderly person. A dog needs food, shelter, exercise, grooming, health care and companionship. Some dogs need less, some dogs need more, but each and every dog requires at least these things from you. A dog is a commitment in time and money. A dog is a long-term permanent responsibility.
There are enough folks who go out of their way to bring suffering to a dog. You may have good intentions for getting a dog, but be sure you are not buying on a whim, that you are quite ready, meaning that should you ever need to undergo a change of living space, or get married and have children, you will be able to keep your dog with you. Surprisingly, one of the top 10 reasons why dogs and puppies are surrendered to shelters each year is due to "lifestyle change".
Most dogs and puppies that end up in pounds or kill shelters are euthanized. In the U.S. alone, it is estimated that 8-10 million dogs and puppies are euthanized each year at the cost to the taxpayers of $2 billion dollars per year.
Consider what will happen if you do give your dog or puppy up.
If you can no longer keep your dog, try to find a loving person or family or select a rescue organization or a no kill shelter first. If you must surrender your dog or puppy to a shelter, try not do do it during a holiday. Shelters and pounds are usually packed to capacity during these times and more than likely your dog or puppy will be euthanized before it has any chance of being adopted.When surrendering a dog, should it have health problems, disclose the information. If it is a contractible illness don't jeopardize the health of the other dogs and puppies in the facility. Don't cause your dog or puppy added suffering by denying them their medication. It will also give a potential adopter the information they need to better care for your former dog or puppy.
Here is a brief overview of what owning a dog would require.
First consider why you might want a dog.
as a family pet
as an active companion
for sport - hunting, retrieving, obedience trials
for protection
for police work or rescue
for assistance
for show competitions
Consider whether you are home enough to prevent your dog from being lonely. Dogs are social creatures and enjoy company. Depending on the breed, you might consider having two dogs so they can keep each other company if you are away from home for long hours.
Consider whether you are or are not active. Will determine your choosing a dog with a laid back demeanor or a very active one.
Consider who else might be affected. Take into consideration when choosing a dog the other family members, family members yet to come, family members with allergies, other pets, your landlord, neighbors or others if you live in an apartment building that may be affected.
Consider the financial costs of owning a dog.
Price to purchase
Dog food
Healthcare – shots, spay, neuter, medications (including flea, tick, wormer) - dogs suffer from many of the same illnesses as humans: cancers, blindness, heart disease, cataracts, epilepsy, hip dysplasia, deafness
Equipment – dog food and water bowls, dog bedding, dog collars, leash, licensing, ID tags, dog toys, clothes
Grooming – hair and tooth brushes, combs, dog nail clippers, shampoos, toothpaste, dog skin and ear care products
Medical procedures - extended veterinary costs
Consider the commitment of time.
Regular affection - a dog will need and demand it of you
Feeding - a dog needs food and fresh water every day
Exercising - some dog breeds require high levels of exercise
Grooming - some dogs require hours of grooming to maintain cleanliness
Training - some dogs or puppies require more patience to train
Administering medications if needed
Consider how you might obtain a dog.
Wherever, inspect the premises for cleanliness. If you cannot travel to the location of the litter and inspect the premises, ask for references and contact them regarding the dog breeder or rescue organization.
•rescues – some folks think only bad dogs are given up, but that is not the case. There are many wonderful dogs waiting in shelters - with or without pedigrees - simply because they acted like their breed or in a manner their owner didn’t expect, or because there was a lifestyle change - the family had to move, there was a breakup, a downsize of living space, a family member developed an allergy, a new baby has taken up their time, or their owner has become ill or disabled.
•shelters/pound - these dogs and pups are in most need of adoption since they are on death row. Try to find out all you can about the dog or puppy, there might be health or vet records available. Do not adopt simply on the word of the shelter staff. Bring as many family members down to the shelter/pound and vigorously interact with the dog to gauge its level of sociability.
•a small kennel / hobby breeder - that has few litters per year and offers only one or two breeds, exerts the effort to hold and socialize the pups and breeds and screens to prevent such illnesses as: cancers, blindness, heart disease, cataracts, epilepsy, hip dysplasia and deafness. Ask how long they have been breeding a particular breed. Ask them what happens if you cannot keep the puppy or dog. Will they take it back? A good way to find a reputable breeder is to get a referral from a rescue organization recommended by a national kennel club.
12/9/12
Why do dogs like chasing things you have thrown?
Why have they evolved this instinct to chase things – or is it a trait from their ancestors?
Dog are descended from wolves that chased after mammals and birds for food, so the chase instinct is already present from birth. But domestication has also created a link between dogs and humans. Dogs actively seek play opportunities with us because they want our approval.
Consider the question from the other perspective: why do we like throwing things for dogs to chase? We like it because the dog enjoys it and we find its happiness rewarding. Dog and owner are engaged in a mutual back-scratching exercise, where the pleasure of one reinforces the pleasure of the other in a cycle.
What things dogs don't likes?
It depends on the individual dog and doesn't matter what the breed (each one has their own personality.) Here are some things some dogs don't like:
These are a few, but the most common.
- Their owners yelling at them
- Being abused physically
- Being ignored and not given love or any attention
- Not being fed or given fresh water
- Loud noises
- Unexpected noises
- Riding in the car or truck (some dogs gets motion sickness)
- Fear of water or just don't care for swimming in water.
- Having a bath
- Other dogs ... some dogs may be just 'people dogs' and prefer not to be around other dogs or they can be aggressive towards other dogs.
- Aggressive towards other people.
- Strangers on your property or near your vehicle or even your children.
- Being left in a hot car
- Being left out of family fun. Dogs can't go everywhere with the family but many dogs will pine for their owners and the family as a whole no matter how nice the kennel is that you put him/her in.
These are a few, but the most common.
8 weird things dogs do
News alert: your dog is not human – it's a dog. This is not as obvious a statement as it seems, since many dog owners treat their pets as just another member of the family. Dogs react on instinct, when untrained, and we forget that they have very wild ancestors.
There are good reasons for the really weird things your dog does, like roll in the mud and eat out of the dustbin. Here are the answers to eight questions about strange dog behaviour:
Q: Why does my dog drink out of the toilet?
A: Dogs don't know what toilets are for, or what you're doing when you sit down on one. For them, the toilet is an amazing natural fountain with a never-ending supply of cool, clean water. Not only does the repeated flushing keep the water fresh, but the greater oxygenation might also make the water “taste better”, as does the material of the toilet bowl itself: porcelain doesn’t alter the taste of water like plastic or metal can. But experts still reckon it’s best to keep the lid down – drinking toilet water can lead to the ingestion of bacteria or of harmful cleaning chemicals.
Q: Why do dogs love to roll in smelly stuff?
A: Quite simply, dogs have a different idea to us of what smells good, and rolling in something stinky is the canine equivalent to dousing yourself in perfume. When presented with a lovely pile of manure, they want to get as close to the smell as possible. But the habit is also evolutionary and instinctual: dogs were once hunters who had to sneak up on their prey, and could do this best by smelling as unlike a dog as possible.
Q: Why do dogs chase cats?
A: Many dogs are perfectly comfortable with, and even affectionate towards, the cats they know, and many others would just as happily chase a cat as a plastic bag. But for dogs who like to hunt, a cat represents the same thing as a squirrel or a bird or a rabbit: dinner. Though some dogs can never be trusted around their feline counterparts, most others can be socialised by exposure to cats at a young age. As an aside, the top speed of cats is 48km/h – that of dogs, 47km/h. Which might be why we still have cats.
Q: When you hit just the right spot on a dog’s tummy/side/rump, why does he pump his leg?
A: It’s an ancient, irrepressible, anti-pest reflex that dogs just can’t control. Your dog’s nerve endings read a crawling flea the same way as a scratching fingernail: they’re both skin irritations, and the dog is hardwired to bring a leg up to scratch them off. Even though your dog knows it’s you doing the scratching and not a flea, he can’t make the leg stay still: it’s an automatic reflex reaction that’s so predictable that vets even use it as a test during neurological exams.
Q: Why do some dogs hump their toys?
A: Mostly because it feels good, but also just because they can. It’s pretty normal behaviour, especially amongst adolescent males, simply because they feel a need to satisfy their sex drive, and rubbing up against something causes a pleasurable sensation. In many cases, neutering can temper this behaviour, but there’s no guarantee. If your dog seems really obsessed with his genitals, consider taking him to a vet for a check-up: there’s a small possibility of a medical problem.
Q: Why do dogs eat grass?
A: No one knows for sure, but there are two main theories. The first is that grass is a good source of fibre and chlorophyll and helps digestion. The second is evolutionary: if a dog ate something offensive it would feel nauseous, then eat some grass so it would get tangled up with the bad stuff (thus irritating the stomach lining) and cause the dog to throw up. So today, even if they haven’t eaten something bad, dogs might just instinctively eat grass when they feel nauseous.
Q: Why does my dog hate the postman?
A: It’s perfectly normal for dogs to bark at the approach of a stranger, and when the stranger leaves, the dog believes he has successfully frightened him off. If the stranger returns, as postmen routinely do, the dog barks even more aggressively to be sure that this time the offender leaves for good. Over time, this routine aggression becomes more and more intense. It’s simple conditioning: your dog learns this hostility through repetition, the same way he learns commands.
Q: Does a wagging tail mean a friendly dog?
A: Not necessarily! Always be sure to look at the whole dog to check for aggression. If the dog is relaxed and smiling it’s more likely to be friendly than a nervous-looking, tense or skittish dog , even if both are wagging their tails. Be on the lookout for a dog with hackles raised with its eyes focused in a hard stare: here, a wagging tail doesnot mean “I’m friendly”. It’s best to check with the owner first before petting any strange dog.
10 Things Your Dog Would Tell You
I am publishing this blog in memory of my dog, Stella (pictured above), who died last year on September 21st.
I saw this list shared by several friends on Facebook yesterday. It is so simple and moving that I felt compelled to share it here. I invite you to share your thoughts below.
1. My life is likely to last ten to fifteen years. Any separation from you will be painful: remember that before you get me.
2. Give me time to understand what you want of me.
3. Place your trust in me—it is crucial to my wellbeing.
4. Do not be angry at me for long, and do not lock me up as punishment.
5. You have your work, your entertainment, and your friends. I only have you.
6. Talk to me sometimes. Even if I don’t understand your words, I understand your voice.
Our dogs spooning. Rocco and Stella (passed on last year)
7. Be aware that however you treat me, I will never forget.
8. Remember before you hit me that I have sharp teeth that could easily hurt you, but I choose not to bite you because I love you.
9. Before you scold me for being uncooperative, obstinate, or lazy, ask yourself if something might be bothering me. Perhaps I might not be getting the right food, or I have been out too long, or my heart is getting too old and weak.
10. Take care of me when I get old. You too will grow old. Accompany me on difficult journeys. Never say: “I cannot bear to watch” or “Let it happen in my absence.” Everything is easier for me if you are there—even my death.
5 Things You're Doing that Drive Your Dog Crazy
Do you ever wonder what your dog would say if he could talk? Do you ever wonder what’s on his mind when he looks up at you with those big, warm, brown eyes?
You might be surprised to learn that what you’re doing to your dog is confusing him—maybe even driving him crazy. Here are five bad habits you need to stop before they wreck your relationship.
1. You’re trying to communicate with your dogs through words.
You adopt a dog from the shelter, and you know it is not the first time he has been adopted, but you are confident you will be successful. One of your worries is that the previous owner had given the dog a name you don’t like, so you have renamed him Riley. But will that confuse him? Guess what? Dogs don’t care much whether you speak to them in Spanish, or English, or Chinese, because they don’t hear words as words, just as sounds. It’s like the way that people spell out “w-a-l-k” and “l-e-a-s-h”; they may be fooling themselves but they certainly aren’t fooling the dog. That’s one of the reasons I love being with dogs so much—because they sense something much deeper than the words you use; they also read your body language. Which is why you can’t lie to a dog. When you speak to a dog you must speak from the inside, from your mind, your heart, and your body. Otherwise he will be scratching his head with his paw, trying to figure why he can see your lips moving with strange noises coming out.
2. You treat your dog like a child.
We all know those houses, right? The ones with the framed pictures of Twinkles all over the walls. Her name is embroidered on all of her pillows and emblazoned on toys of every kind, scattered from kitchen to bedroom to bath. And Twinkles’s owner never stops fawning over her as though she were a one-year-old. You can see how the human starts to get confused sometimes and starts thinking that Twinkles is a child—but of course Twinkles is under no illusions at all. She is a dog, and she wants to behave like a dog—that is in her DNA. And like all dogs, she wants to run, she loves to chase things, and she wants to use her nose to track. Your “baby” is also a pack animal and needs the structure and discipline in her life to feel fulfilled and not become frustrated. There is nothing wrong with showing your dog love, but remember: first exercise, then discipline, and finally affection.
3. Your dog doesn’t have a job and he’s bored.
So many times people have come to me, worried because their dog has picked up an aggravating habit. Maybe he’s chewing the carpet, or racing in circles around the house, or showing surprising aggression. And so often the answer is the same: Your dog is getting bored—he wants something to do. Dogs aren’t born expecting to be waited on hand and foot, with meals produced whenever they are hungry; no creature in the animal world is. In the wild—from the time they are babies—dogs have to work for their food. They have to hunt it down or go hungry. I like to tell people that in Mexico, where I am from, the dogs are thin but they don’t have psychological problems. Dogs have been bred over the centuries for different jobs—from rounding up cattle to hunting to hauling. When their natural instinct is denied, they become frustrated, and that is when they start to show signs of aggressive behavior. So do what your dog asks and give him a job. Put a pack on his back when you go for walks or create obstacle courses so he can put his scent-tracking abilities to good use. You’ll see right away how happy it makes him.
4. You’re acting like your dog’s playmate, not pack leader.
You’ve watched Dog Whisperer and read my books, so you know how important it is for you to claim the role of pack leader from the time your puppy first joins the family. But then you come home, and it’s a beautiful summer evening, and your pup is telling you that she is ready to play. The next thing you know, you and your dog are racing around the back yard with a ball and all the rules have changed. At least the rules have changed in your mind—until you are ready to call it quits and go inside for dinner. How is your dog supposed to understand what has happened? You gave up on being pack leader to race into playing with her instead of making it clear that play begins only when she is calm and responsive. So now she is all turned around about who’s the boss. Remember: Being a pack leader is not a part-time occupation; it’s all the time. Your dog is always looking for consistency and structure, and without it she is going to become confused about when she is supposed to follow your directions and when you two are just buddies.
5. You’re tense and nervous around your dog
Your sister-in-law is one of your least favorite people. You hate it when she comes to visit—you know she is checking out your home, and you can see the critical disdain in her face. To make matters worse, whenever she’s near Mikey, your otherwise well-behaved mixed-breed dog, he goes crazy, as if to demonstrate your poor dog-handling skills. But he doesn’t know there are problems with you and your sister-in-law; he just knows that his pack leader is tense and nervous, so he may become tense and nervous too. Our dogs are incredibly finely attuned to us—we’ve been living together almost from the beginning of time! That is why they need calm, assertive energy to relax. Remember: Dogs are predators in the wild, so if they become nervous, their fight-or-flight response is almost always more likely to be fight. Nervousness in dogs will soon come out as aggression. It is how they deal with a problem.
Listen to your dogs. Listen to them carefully, for they are trying to tell you what they want. Their needs are really very simple, and if you satisfy those, you will have a happy and harmonious relationship. That is the kind of bond I have with Junior, as you can see from the photos on these pages. And I hope it will be the relationship you have with your dog.
5 Things Your Dog Wants From You
So it’s a New Year, and although he or she can’t tell you, your dog has some resolutions—what he or she wants from you! You may see a seated dog looking up at you waiting for a treat and think all is well, but trust me—it isn’t, she wants more.
Here are the five things your dog really wants from you in this New Year:
1. Love, love, love: Your dog wants you to love her—more! Instead of simply showing everyone the new pic of her on your iPhone, spend time with the gal. Sure I tell the world how obsessed I am with my beagle, Sugar, by the pathetic bumper stickers plastered on my car, but I know she loves our snuggle time. When Sugar’s lying on the couch and I come over to give her a nice long rub and cuddle, her eyelids go to half mast, and doggie bliss has officially descended. She looks into eyes and she holds my gaze—it’s doggie nirvana. So spend more time: car time, couch time, walk time. Whichever way works best for you--show them the love. Step it up a notch.
2. A pack leader: Who’s the boss? My spoiled above-mentioned beagle gets treated like a queen—until she doesn’t. And I decide when that happens. Dogs need a pack leader and if they don’t get one—they become one. You don’t want your dog running your house, even if she runs your heart. Dogs need rules and boundaries that are understood and consistent, or dogs will take advantage. And I know. For example, my beagle is allowed on some couches and chairs and not on others, and she knows which ones. Except every once in a while she’ll jump up someplace she knows she’s not allowed. If I let her get away with it, in a few days she jumps up wherever she wants to. The self-professed Queen needs to revert to princess status. And as much as I hate to do it, if I don’t, I know I will find her lounging on my bed snacking on a bag of chips she’s jumped up on the counter to get. And just in case you think I’m cruel, if you ever find me lounging on my bed snacking on a bag of chips, you can kick me off too.
3. Food: My beagle loves dearly anyone who has ever fed her. It’s a very simple way to be allowed into her very simple little heart. She might get this from me. We are simple creatures. And who doesn’t want more food? I usually do, but I know how to zip my lips. Your dog needs you to make the right decision. She can’t stop the madness on her own. Studies done in 2011 by the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention says 55% of dogs in the U.S. are overweight or obese. No surprise there, but dogs need to rely on their owners to regulate their food intake. They need you to help them stay healthy. If you don’t, it ain’t pretty. Once I can home to find that Sugar consumed an extra-large box of cereal. My unmoving, comatose beagle resembled a stuffed pig. Do your pooch a favor, make sure you’re doling out the right amount of food.
4. Fun: In the immortal words that could have been sung by Cyndi Lauper: “Dogs just wanna have fu-un!” Sugar could spend all day taking a walk, playing tug-o-war, visiting other dogs, and keeping me company. That said: so could I. But life gets in the way. And though I know life can and does, I also know I could spend a little more time having fun with Sugar, for Sugar. What does your dog like to do best? She told me to tell you that she wants it more.
5. Exercise and health: Well, truth be told, Sugar likes exercise more than I do. I look upon a three-mile walk as forty minutes I could spend sitting on the couch reading. But I know it’s good for me and for her to get up and out. Dogs want to be outside, exploring, playing, and rolling around in stinky stuff. They really want exercise, and most dogs need more—it’s the other half of that diet/exercise plan we food lovers need to put into play.
So ring in the New Year considering doing what your dog really wants. Who knows, it might just be your best year yet.