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12/9/12

Why do dogs like chasing things you have thrown?


Why have they evolved this instinct to chase things – or is it a trait from their ancestors?

Dog are descended from wolves that chased after mammals and birds for food, so the chase instinct is already present from birth. But domestication has also created a link between dogs and humans. Dogs actively seek play opportunities with us because they want our approval.


Consider the question from the other perspective: why do we like throwing things for dogs to chase? We like it because the dog enjoys it and we find its happiness rewarding. Dog and owner are engaged in a mutual back-scratching exercise, where the pleasure of one reinforces the pleasure of the other in a cycle.

What things dogs don't likes?

It depends on the individual dog and doesn't matter what the breed (each one has their own personality.) Here are some things some dogs don't like:
  • Their owners yelling at them
  • Being abused physically
  • Being ignored and not given love or any attention
  • Not being fed or given fresh water
  • Loud noises
  • Unexpected noises
  • Riding in the car or truck (some dogs gets motion sickness)
  • Fear of water or just don't care for swimming in water.
  • Having a bath
  • Other dogs ... some dogs may be just 'people dogs' and prefer not to be around other dogs or they can be aggressive towards other dogs.
  • Aggressive towards other people.
  • Strangers on your property or near your vehicle or even your children.
  • Being left in a hot car
  • Being left out of family fun. Dogs can't go everywhere with the family but many dogs will pine for their owners and the family as a whole no matter how nice the kennel is that you put him/her in.

These are a few, but the most common.

8 weird things dogs do

News alert: your dog is not human – it's a dog. This is not as obvious a statement as it seems, since many dog owners treat their pets as just another member of the family. Dogs react on instinct, when untrained, and we forget that they have very wild ancestors.

There are good reasons for the really weird things your dog does, like roll in the mud and eat out of the dustbin. Here are the answers to eight questions about strange dog behaviour:

Q: Why does my dog drink out of the toilet?

A: Dogs don't know what toilets are for, or what you're doing when you sit down on one. For them, the toilet is an amazing natural fountain with a never-ending supply of cool, clean water. Not only does the repeated flushing keep the water fresh, but the greater oxygenation might also make the water “taste better”, as does the material of the toilet bowl itself: porcelain doesn’t alter the taste of water like plastic or metal can. But experts still reckon it’s best to keep the lid down – drinking toilet water can lead to the ingestion of bacteria or of harmful cleaning chemicals.

Q: Why do dogs love to roll in smelly stuff?

A: Quite simply, dogs have a different idea to us of what smells good, and rolling in something stinky is the canine equivalent to dousing yourself in perfume. When presented with a lovely pile of manure, they want to get as close to the smell as possible. But the habit is also evolutionary and instinctual: dogs were once hunters who had to sneak up on their prey, and could do this best by smelling as unlike a dog as possible.

Q: Why do dogs chase cats?

A: Many dogs are perfectly comfortable with, and even affectionate towards, the cats they know, and many others would just as happily chase a cat as a plastic bag. But for dogs who like to hunt, a cat represents the same thing as a squirrel or a bird or a rabbit: dinner. Though some dogs can never be trusted around their feline counterparts, most others can be socialised by exposure to cats at a young age. As an aside, the top speed of cats is 48km/h – that of dogs, 47km/h. Which might be why we still have cats.

Q: When you hit just the right spot on a dog’s tummy/side/rump, why does he pump his leg?

A: It’s an ancient, irrepressible, anti-pest reflex that dogs just can’t control. Your dog’s nerve endings read a crawling flea the same way as a scratching fingernail: they’re both skin irritations, and the dog is hardwired to bring a leg up to scratch them off. Even though your dog knows it’s you doing the scratching and not a flea, he can’t make the leg stay still: it’s an automatic reflex reaction that’s so predictable that vets even use it as a test during neurological exams.

Q: Why do some dogs hump their toys?

A: Mostly because it feels good, but also just because they can. It’s pretty normal behaviour, especially amongst adolescent males, simply because they feel a need to satisfy their sex drive, and rubbing up against something causes a pleasurable sensation. In many cases, neutering can temper this behaviour, but there’s no guarantee. If your dog seems really obsessed with his genitals, consider taking him to a vet for a check-up: there’s a small possibility of a medical problem.

Q: Why do dogs eat grass?

A: No one knows for sure, but there are two main theories. The first is that grass is a good source of fibre and chlorophyll and helps digestion. The second is evolutionary: if a dog ate something offensive it would feel nauseous, then eat some grass so it would get tangled up with the bad stuff (thus irritating the stomach lining) and cause the dog to throw up. So today, even if they haven’t eaten something bad, dogs might just instinctively eat grass when they feel nauseous.

Q: Why does my dog hate the postman?

A: It’s perfectly normal for dogs to bark at the approach of a stranger, and when the stranger leaves, the dog believes he has successfully frightened him off. If the stranger returns, as postmen routinely do, the dog barks even more aggressively to be sure that this time the offender leaves for good. Over time, this routine aggression becomes more and more intense. It’s simple conditioning: your dog learns this hostility through repetition, the same way he learns commands.

Q: Does a wagging tail mean a friendly dog?

A: Not necessarily! Always be sure to look at the whole dog to check for aggression. If the dog is relaxed and smiling it’s more likely to be friendly than a nervous-looking, tense or skittish dog , even if both are wagging their tails. Be on the lookout for a dog with hackles raised with its eyes focused in a hard stare: here, a wagging tail doesnot mean “I’m friendly”. It’s best to check with the owner first before petting any strange dog.

10 Things Your Dog Would Tell You

I am publishing this blog in memory of my dog, Stella (pictured above), who died last year on September 21st.

I saw this list shared by several friends on Facebook yesterday. It is so simple and moving that I felt compelled to share it here. I invite you to share your thoughts below.

1. My life is likely to last ten to fifteen years. Any separation from you will be painful: remember that before you get me.

2. Give me time to understand what you want of me.


3. Place your trust in me—it is crucial to my wellbeing.

4. Do not be angry at me for long, and do not lock me up as punishment.

5. You have your work, your entertainment, and your friends. I only have you.

6. Talk to me sometimes. Even if I don’t understand your words, I understand your voice.

Our dogs spooning. Rocco and Stella (passed on last year)

7. Be aware that however you treat me, I will never forget.

8. Remember before you hit me that I have sharp teeth that could easily hurt you, but I choose not to bite you because I love you.

9. Before you scold me for being uncooperative, obstinate, or lazy, ask yourself if something might be bothering me. Perhaps I might not be getting the right food, or I have been out too long, or my heart is getting too old and weak.

10. Take care of me when I get old. You too will grow old. Accompany me on difficult journeys. Never say: “I cannot bear to watch” or “Let it happen in my absence.” Everything is easier for me if you are there—even my death.

5 Things You're Doing that Drive Your Dog Crazy

Do you ever wonder what your dog would say if he could talk? Do you ever wonder what’s on his mind when he looks up at you with those big, warm, brown eyes?

You might be surprised to learn that what you’re doing to your dog is confusing him—maybe even driving him crazy. Here are five bad habits you need to stop before they wreck your relationship.

1. You’re trying to communicate with your dogs through words.

You adopt a dog from the shelter, and you know it is not the first time he has been adopted, but you are confident you will be successful. One of your worries is that the previous owner had given the dog a name you don’t like, so you have renamed him Riley. But will that confuse him? Guess what? Dogs don’t care much whether you speak to them in Spanish, or English, or Chinese, because they don’t hear words as words, just as sounds. It’s like the way that people spell out “w-a-l-k” and “l-e-a-s-h”; they may be fooling themselves but they certainly aren’t fooling the dog. That’s one of the reasons I love being with dogs so much—because they sense something much deeper than the words you use; they also read your body language. Which is why you can’t lie to a dog. When you speak to a dog you must speak from the inside, from your mind, your heart, and your body. Otherwise he will be scratching his head with his paw, trying to figure why he can see your lips moving with strange noises coming out.

2. You treat your dog like a child.


We all know those houses, right? The ones with the framed pictures of Twinkles all over the walls. Her name is embroidered on all of her pillows and emblazoned on toys of every kind, scattered from kitchen to bedroom to bath. And Twinkles’s owner never stops fawning over her as though she were a one-year-old. You can see how the human starts to get confused sometimes and starts thinking that Twinkles is a child—but of course Twinkles is under no illusions at all. She is a dog, and she wants to behave like a dog—that is in her DNA. And like all dogs, she wants to run, she loves to chase things, and she wants to use her nose to track. Your “baby” is also a pack animal and needs the structure and discipline in her life to feel fulfilled and not become frustrated. There is nothing wrong with showing your dog love, but remember: first exercise, then discipline, and finally affection.

3. Your dog doesn’t have a job and he’s bored.


So many times people have come to me, worried because their dog has picked up an aggravating habit. Maybe he’s chewing the carpet, or racing in circles around the house, or showing surprising aggression. And so often the answer is the same: Your dog is getting bored—he wants something to do. Dogs aren’t born expecting to be waited on hand and foot, with meals produced whenever they are hungry; no creature in the animal world is. In the wild—from the time they are babies—dogs have to work for their food. They have to hunt it down or go hungry. I like to tell people that in Mexico, where I am from, the dogs are thin but they don’t have psychological problems. Dogs have been bred over the centuries for different jobs—from rounding up cattle to hunting to hauling. When their natural instinct is denied, they become frustrated, and that is when they start to show signs of aggressive behavior. So do what your dog asks and give him a job. Put a pack on his back when you go for walks or create obstacle courses so he can put his scent-tracking abilities to good use. You’ll see right away how happy it makes him.

4. You’re acting like your dog’s playmate, not pack leader.


You’ve watched Dog Whisperer and read my books, so you know how important it is for you to claim the role of pack leader from the time your puppy first joins the family. But then you come home, and it’s a beautiful summer evening, and your pup is telling you that she is ready to play. The next thing you know, you and your dog are racing around the back yard with a ball and all the rules have changed. At least the rules have changed in your mind—until you are ready to call it quits and go inside for dinner. How is your dog supposed to understand what has happened? You gave up on being pack leader to race into playing with her instead of making it clear that play begins only when she is calm and responsive. So now she is all turned around about who’s the boss. Remember: Being a pack leader is not a part-time occupation; it’s all the time. Your dog is always looking for consistency and structure, and without it she is going to become confused about when she is supposed to follow your directions and when you two are just buddies.

5. You’re tense and nervous around your dog

Your sister-in-law is one of your least favorite people. You hate it when she comes to visit—you know she is checking out your home, and you can see the critical disdain in her face. To make matters worse, whenever she’s near Mikey, your otherwise well-behaved mixed-breed dog, he goes crazy, as if to demonstrate your poor dog-handling skills. But he doesn’t know there are problems with you and your sister-in-law; he just knows that his pack leader is tense and nervous, so he may become tense and nervous too. Our dogs are incredibly finely attuned to us—we’ve been living together almost from the beginning of time! That is why they need calm, assertive energy to relax. Remember: Dogs are predators in the wild, so if they become nervous, their fight-or-flight response is almost always more likely to be fight. Nervousness in dogs will soon come out as aggression. It is how they deal with a problem.

Listen to your dogs. Listen to them carefully, for they are trying to tell you what they want. Their needs are really very simple, and if you satisfy those, you will have a happy and harmonious relationship. That is the kind of bond I have with Junior, as you can see from the photos on these pages. And I hope it will be the relationship you have with your dog.

5 Things Your Dog Wants From You

So it’s a New Year, and although he or she can’t tell you, your dog has some resolutions—what he or she wants from you! You may see a seated dog looking up at you waiting for a treat and think all is well, but trust me—it isn’t, she wants more.

Here are the five things your dog really wants from you in this New Year:

1. Love, love, love: Your dog wants you to love her—more! Instead of simply showing everyone the new pic of her on your iPhone, spend time with the gal. Sure I tell the world how obsessed I am with my beagle, Sugar, by the pathetic bumper stickers plastered on my car, but I know she loves our snuggle time. When Sugar’s lying on the couch and I come over to give her a nice long rub and cuddle, her eyelids go to half mast, and doggie bliss has officially descended. She looks into eyes and she holds my gaze—it’s doggie nirvana. So spend more time: car time, couch time, walk time. Whichever way works best for you--show them the love. Step it up a notch.

2. A pack leader: Who’s the boss? My spoiled above-mentioned beagle gets treated like a queen—until she doesn’t. And I decide when that happens. Dogs need a pack leader and if they don’t get one—they become one. You don’t want your dog running your house, even if she runs your heart. Dogs need rules and boundaries that are understood and consistent, or dogs will take advantage. And I know. For example, my beagle is allowed on some couches and chairs and not on others, and she knows which ones. Except every once in a while she’ll jump up someplace she knows she’s not allowed. If I let her get away with it, in a few days she jumps up wherever she wants to. The self-professed Queen needs to revert to princess status. And as much as I hate to do it, if I don’t, I know I will find her lounging on my bed snacking on a bag of chips she’s jumped up on the counter to get. And just in case you think I’m cruel, if you ever find me lounging on my bed snacking on a bag of chips, you can kick me off too.

3. Food: My beagle loves dearly anyone who has ever fed her. It’s a very simple way to be allowed into her very simple little heart. She might get this from me. We are simple creatures. And who doesn’t want more food? I usually do, but I know how to zip my lips. Your dog needs you to make the right decision. She can’t stop the madness on her own. Studies done in 2011 by the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention says 55% of dogs in the U.S. are overweight or obese. No surprise there, but dogs need to rely on their owners to regulate their food intake. They need you to help them stay healthy. If you don’t, it ain’t pretty. Once I can home to find that Sugar consumed an extra-large box of cereal. My unmoving, comatose beagle resembled a stuffed pig. Do your pooch a favor, make sure you’re doling out the right amount of food.

4. Fun: In the immortal words that could have been sung by Cyndi Lauper: “Dogs just wanna have fu-un!” Sugar could spend all day taking a walk, playing tug-o-war, visiting other dogs, and keeping me company. That said: so could I. But life gets in the way. And though I know life can and does, I also know I could spend a little more time having fun with Sugar, for Sugar. What does your dog like to do best? She told me to tell you that she wants it more.

5. Exercise and health: Well, truth be told, Sugar likes exercise more than I do. I look upon a three-mile walk as forty minutes I could spend sitting on the couch reading. But I know it’s good for me and for her to get up and out. Dogs want to be outside, exploring, playing, and rolling around in stinky stuff. They really want exercise, and most dogs need more—it’s the other half of that diet/exercise plan we food lovers need to put into play.

So ring in the New Year considering doing what your dog really wants. Who knows, it might just be your best year yet.


CHANGING FOODS FOR DOGS

How do we assess the foods?

Choosing a good dry pet food isn’t that easy. If you’ve ever read the ingredient label on a pet food, you’ll notice that there is one crucial bit of information missing: how much of each ingredient is in the food. That really is crucial information. As we’ve already noted, most dry pet foods are based on grains or other plant material. But the animals we’re feeding them to are carnivores and should be eating a diet that is mainly made up of meat…

You’ll see the crude fat and crude protein content of the food listed on the labelling, but that alone does not tell us very much. Grains contain protein too – but it’s far less bioavailable protein for a carnivore that lacks the digestive enzymes needed to digest plants. Protein derived from meat represents a far higher quality and species-appropriate diet for a carnivore than plant proteins ever can be. What’s the point of a protein if it cannot be properly digested?

Fortunately, it is possible to make an educated guess as to the quality of a pet food. Until or unless the percentages of the ingredients are required to be shown on the ingredient lists or manufacturers disclose that information voluntarily, it can only ever be an educated guess or assessment, based on the knowledge that we do have. But that is far better than relying on the advertising hype. 

What we look for in pet foods:

Meat, meat and more meat products. Cats and dogs are carnivores, and a species appropriate diet for these animals must be based on meat. They have no evolved need of carbohydrates in their diet. Grains are in pet food because they’re cheaper than meat products, and are needed to hold the kibble bits together. Not because they’re species-appropriate nutrition for a carnivorous mammal.

Meat and fat products that are identified by species. If the species cannot be identified, neither can the quality. We suggest avoiding any products that use unidentified “meat”, “animal” or “poultry” products in their foods.

Where grains are used, we look for good quality whole grains. Avoid those products that make prolific use of grain fragments (think floor sweepings) in their foods – these are nutritionless fillers.

Whole fruits and vegetables are appreciated, especially where these replace grains in the foods.

Organic ingredients are appreciated – but note above about the need for a food to contain a high proportion of meat. Organic grains are very nice where grains must be used, but they are no substitute for meat content.

What we avoid:


Foods containing any form of by-products, most especially those of indeterminate origin (“animal”, “poultry”, etc). 

Artificial colours, flavours, sweeteners or preservatives – especially those believed to be carcinogenic or that are banned from use in the human food chain. In dog food, principally these are BHT, BHA, Ethoxyquin, Propyl Gallate. NOTE: Some ingredients, usually fish products, may contain artificial preservatives that are not disclosed on the ingredient list; if they are not added by the manufacturer, they are not required to be listed. We therefore look for assurances by manufacturers using ocean fish products that their foods do NOT contain any artificial preservatives.

Meats and fats that are not identified by species. These could literally be anything, and are almost certainly of very low quality.

Practices and ingredients to be aware of:


Splitting


Splitting is a common practice on dog food labels and it pays to be aware. Ingredients in dog food are listed in order of their weight – so the heaviest ingredients, those that make up the largest portion of the food, are listed first. 

Splitting is when a manufacturer lists different components of the same ingredient as separate items. For example, chicken and chicken meal are both chicken products. Brown rice, white rice, rice, rice bran, rice gluten and rice flour are all parts of the same ingredient – rice. Yes, there is a difference in the nutritional aspects of the different forms of rice – brown rice is more nutritious than white rice, and grain fragments are far lower quality and less nutritious than whole grains. But the issue around splitting is in determining quantity.

The reason for the practice of “splitting” is essentially to make the ingredient list look better. As an example, when there are large quantities of rice in the food, a manufacturer might choose to list the component parts separately. That way, although the total rice products may make up, say, 55% of the food and meat only 25%, it is possible to list the meat product first and then three or four individual rice products that each separately weigh less than the meat product. Combined, however, rice makes up more than double the chicken content.

Manufacturers don’t disclose the quantity of ingredients on the labelling though. So you have to make the best assessment you can from the rest of the information given. Thus, while seeing the component parts of rice (or any other ingredient) is useful for determining the quality of ingredients used, when you’re trying to assess quantity you should always mentally add those component parts together.

Splitting can also serve to increase the level of confidence one has in the quantity of particular ingredients used. When you see two forms of the same meat ingredient, chicken for example, at the head of an ingredient list that can help you come to the reasonable conclusion that there is indeed a reasonable amount of chicken in the food.

The ingredient “chicken” means fresh chicken which is inclusive of its water content. Now water content is of course removed in the process of making dry dog food. It is thus likely that the true position of that ingredient (sans water) should be much further down the ingredient list than is stated. But if that were the first ingredient in a food, and the next ingredient is “chicken meal” then the practice of splitting can tell us that there was sufficient chicken meal in the food for it to be rated ahead of the first grain despite a portion of the ingredient split off. This serves to increase our confidence that the true first ingredient is that named – a form of chicken (meat product).

Be careful though ;) That would not necessarily be the case if the grains behind it were also split, or if there are a lot of different grain products in the food.

Some examples:



Example 1:

Chicken, chicken meal, turkey, turkey meal, brown rice, chicken fat….

That looks excellent. There are “four” meat ingredients at the head of the ingredient list. And only one grain. Once we factor in the removal of water content (which is about 80%) from the ingredients “chicken” and “turkey” then it is likely that these would be more accurately placed somewhat further down the ingredient list. A more likely “true” ingredient list here is thus: chicken meal, turkey meal, brown rice, chicken fat, chicken (sans water), turkey (sans water).

So how does it look now? Actually, still very good. The first two ingredients are still meat products, and there are two further meat products in the food. There is only one grain ahead of the fat content. We could have a very high level of confidence that there really was a decent quantity of meat products in the food.


Example 2:

Chicken meal, brown rice, white rice, rice bran, rice gluten meal, barley, chicken fat…

At first glance, that also looks fairly good. The first ingredient in the food is a meat product – in meal form too, so we don’t have to factor in the effects of water removal. But is it really the first ingredient? Actually, we can’t be confident that it is. Once we add all the different forms of rice together, they may well outweigh the chicken meal. And in fact they probably do, by a significant margin. Note that there’s another grain right behind the rice products in the ingredient list too. In short, it is impossible to be confident that the food contains an adequate amount of meat.

While not strictly an example of splitting, you should also take note of foods that use a lot of different grain products, and mentally add all those grains together to compare against all meat products. 


For example: 

Chicken meal, brown rice, barley, oat groats, ground corn, chicken fat, wheat flour, corn gluten meal, fish meal, millet…

No splitting going on there, so we can read that as a true list. But we should look carefully at the overall meat versus grain content. The first ingredient may be meat, but in this case it is followed immediately by four different grains ahead of the fat content, and three more grains after that. There is one further meat product (a meal) but it’s 9th on the ingredient list. It is likely that the combined grain products outweigh the total meat products by a large margin. This too is a grain heavy food.

The manufacturers won’t tell us the exact proportions of the ingredients that go into the products, so it is really a case of making an assessment based on the information you do have. And when it comes to dog food, it is wiser to err on the side of scepticism than of blind trust.

What DFA does NOT do:

The ratings and reviews on this site are based solely on the ingredients the manufacturers state they use in the foods and other information given. We make no assessment of their ethics, involvement in food recalls, animal testing, phenobarbitol 'scandals' or other practices, believing this to be a matter for the individual consumer. If you wish to include such considerations in your food purchase decision, we would encourage you to research widely prior to purchase.

The Best Food for Dogs

"What is the best food to feed a dog?" Every day veterinarians are asked that question by dog owners. It's a sincere question because most dog owners want to feed the very best to their furry friends. Good health begins with proper nutrition, regardless of price or convenience of acquisition.

Please understand that the entire discussion on this page relates to healthy dogs with no kidney, thyroid, food allergy or other abnormal conditions. Also, the content of this page is my opinion regarding the "best" dry food and how to determine what you think is "best" to feed dogs.

A big reason why it i is strictly an opinion, there is no single answer to the question "What is the best diet to feed a dog?" Or if there is an answer it is, "It depends".

Over the past 37 years I have been examining dogs and cats in my practices I have made it a point to ask the owner "What diet are you feeding?" I have gotten all sorts of answers but in every case I relate the owner's response to what I am seeing in the patient. And over the years my suggestions regarding what to feed have changed.

Originally I took the pet food manufacturer's declarations as fact -- that an assortment of "Complete and Balanced" pet foods were perfectly nourishing because that wording was not legally permitted on pet food labels unless feeding trials demonstrated its veracity. I eventually discovered I was mistaken in the belief that any "Complete and Balanced" dog food was appropriate to feed.

It was in 1978 that I had an awakening. A number of clients were presenting dogs to me that had coarse hair coats and slightly greasy and flaky skin; and often these dogs (and cats!) had chronic itchy skin, hot spots, ear infections and seemed overweight.

So, they were over-caloried but under-nourished. Their calorie intake was up but the food they were consuming simply -- no matter that the pet food label indicated "Complete and Balanced" --was not providing a proper nutrient spectrum to the dog. Sometimes I would simply say that some fatty acid supplements "might help". I was a believer in those "Complete and Balanced" diets. One of the reasons I couldn't see what was going on regarding these dogs with poor health signals relating to diets was that some of the "Complete and Balanced" diets were resulting in well nourished dogs, partly because the owners were feeding table scraps as well.

I'll jump ahead a bit and tell you the defining element that separated the good "Complete and Balanced" diets from the poor ones was this: The poor diets were based on corn -- meaning, corn was listed as the first ingredient in the ingredient list on the label -- and the good diets were based on chicken or some other meat source -- lamb, beef.

I was always instructed, and learned in the few nutrition courses in veterinary school (nutrition is much better covered in veterinary school these days) that an imbalance of calcium and phosphorus in a dog's diet would lead to health disasters. This holds true today, too.

I was instructed that "since meat is high in phosphorus and lower in calcium, too much meat is not good for dogs over long periods of time". (Many people still confuse the disastrous all meat diets with meat-based diets; one is not good the other is ideal.) Grain-based diets for dogs, and even more so for cats, do not make nutritional sense and that was exactly why I was seeing those patients with the dry and flaky, sometimes greasy skin and coarse hair coats. They were eating "Complete and Balanced" grain-based diets with nothing else added. Why add anything when it is "Complete and Balanced" already?

Further confirmation came when I saw another litter owned by a local Bloodhound breeder. This fellow seemed to me to be quiet and a healthy ten-year-old dog with a shiny coat.

When I'd ask him what he was feeding his dogs we would get into our annual nutritional discussion and I'd keep warning him about the home-made recipe and all that meat he had been feeding his dogs for years.

Funny thing was, his dogs were among the very best I had ever seen. All his litters, and adult dogs, were robust, had perfect skin and coats even at six weeks of age, and never had to come in for skin problems, skeletal dysfunction, gastrointestinal problems or oral health issues. This breeder was sending his pups all over the country and there I was trying to tell him to be careful about "feeding too much meat" and I'd talk about such things as "a 'Complete and Balanced' commercial dog food would be best, make sure you don't get skeletal problems". I wondered why I felt rather foolish instructing him because I honestly thought his dogs were in optimum health.

The answer came to me, finally, on its own. It seeped into my consciousness after years of seeing a pattern. The key to the healthy dogs' diets was that they were consuming a diet based upon meat and the poor doers were eating diets based upon grain such as corn!

According to pet industry consultant Dave Geier of Geier Enterprises, Highlands Ranch, CO, "Pet food companies invest over $100 million each year in research and development. This includes both basic research into new and improved formulations as well as the protocols to validate their efficacy."

All this ongoing research and development bodes well for dog owners because the more we know the better we become at taking care of the dogs and puppies in our lives. Geier goes on to say that, "The ingredients in some high-end pet foods have never been better."

I have noticed that today's meat-based diets are far superior to what was commercially available years ago. Dog owners are finally understanding the need for meat and poultry products as a foundation for superior nutrition for dogs. And the myth about "all that protein causing kidney damage" has finally gone the way of such proverbs as milk causing worms and ear cropping preventing ear infections. If you need to know more about the fact that dietary protein does not harm the kidneys

Therefore, one of the parameters you need to know when you are trying to determine the best food to feed your dog is this: Is the diet meat-based or grain-based? The meat-based diets are the best choice. (Remember, we're talking about normal dogs, not those with heart, thyroid or other abnormalities.)


I prefer chicken as the first (main) ingredient when I recommend a dog food because I have seen so many dogs on chicken-based diets that were in really excellent health. Lamb, turkey, fish, beef and venison all are good choices, too, but subtle nutritional variations in amino acid spectrum and the fatty acid composition contributed by the "meat" may be different when these protein sources are compared to chicken. That's just my opinion; don't stop feeding a lamb and rice diet if your dog looks and acts great!

Veterinary nutrition specialist Dan Carey is a co-author of an excellent text calledCanine and Feline Nutrition, and numerous other published articles that all dog owners and breeders should read. He works in Research and Development at The Iams Company. He believes strongly that dogs should be fed properly well before any breeding activities begin.

“The bitch should be at or within five percent of her ideal body weight. Excess weight is associated with increased complications and excess weight in the final third of gestation is associated with over-sized puppies. Her fatty acid status should be normalized by feeding a diet that contains proper amounts and ratios of fatty acids. If she has had previous litters, each successive litter places a nutritional drain on her. One of the nutrient types that are depleted are fatty acids. If the bitch is fed a diet without a balanced ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids (5;1), her own fatty acid index will go down on successive litters.”

Nursing dogs require a higher caloric intake of properly balanced food. So, what’s the best dog food to feed your dog? The answer is it depends. In truth, there seems to be no single dog food that is the best for all dogs and all puppies. So what should you look for in a high quality dog food?

Here’s what I suggest to my clients: Look at the dog food labels. In the GUARANTEED ANALYSIS look for the Protein content to be at least 30 percent, the Fat to be at least 18 percent, preservatives to be via Vitamin E and/or C and look for Omega Fatty Acid to be present. Supplementation can be harmful, especially calcium supplementation to a pregnant bitch. If a good quality dog food is being fed no special supplementation should be needed. If a supplement is required to make the dog look or feel better or whelp healthier pups, you should instead change the food.

Optimum nutrition demands that protein, fat, carbohydrate and micronutrients such as minerals, vitamins, and enzymes are in balance with each other. Therein lies the danger of a breeder supplementing an already properly formulated diet!

Recall Geier’s statement about all that research that’s gone into the food’s formulation. How are you to know what supplement to add and in what quantity to “improve” the foods’ value? Should you be adding whole foods such as eggs, cottage cheese, or meat to the dog’s diet?

Again, if a high quality, highly digestible commercial food is fed that meets the previously mentioned percentages of nutrients, adding table food may undo some of the balance and quantities of nutrients being fed to the dog.

So be cautious and self-critical about supplementing a dog’s diet in the hope of improving an already balanced, scientifically established formula. 

In conclusion: I recommend that a dog owner look at the pet food label. Look at the ingredient list and a meat such as chicken should be listed as the first ingredient. Look at the guaranteed analysis to see that the protein level is at 30 percent or more. The fat content should be at 18 percent or more. And if there is a rather wide spectrum of ingredients such as omega fatty acids and vitamin E, that's good, too. There should be NO FOOD COLORING!

If you find a few diets that meet this criteria, and there are quite a few from which to choose, you just might have the confidence that you are feeding the best dog food you can get.

Dogs Travel management

With so many methods of transport, it is hardly surprising that for a percentage we observe a few problems. I will not go through all of them but the cures are normally all the same so you can adopt them as necessary. Many of these are in fact traceable back to the apprehension of the owners. We can be our dog’s worst enemy in assuming such a little bundle of fur is so fragile and needs our protection. We have the “Arrr” factor that turns us into illogical carers. Evolution taught a puppy to lean at an amazing rate to accustom itself to its ever-changing environment in order that it can survive and yet we try to interfere thinking we are doing the right thing. We must try to stand back and let it learn only giving guidance by caring, reward or appropriate chastisement when it is deemed necessary. Watching a puppy learn is exciting and wonderful to see and helps us to better understand then. By watching, we learn about the character of our puppy and how to communicate with it as well as making some needed changes.

Do not make a lot of fuss showing your concern or worries as this only reinforces to the dog that there is something to concern it. Be calm and let that be the influence you convey to your dog. Think happy thoughts or jolly hockey sticks if you are a Roger Mugford fan (I do have my concerns about him) as this controls your body language that your pup is reading. (Anyone who has done acting will know what I mean)

The most common problems are usually associated with cars and are probably a result from its very first encounter. Many breeders and rescue shelters now recognise this and are beginning to take puppies out for short trips in the car in order to accustom them to car travel in preparation for the new owners.

We all are aware that changing homes is stressful for humans as it is for dogs and their reactions to traveling for the first time in a car will surface in differing ways. We can have howling, barking, running around, cowering, sickness, urinating even defecation or they just settle down and go to sleep. If this is its first trip in a car think of the changes, it is making and loosing all the other puppies and its mother. (Gut wrenching stuff) If you think about it the new dog receives a first car trip, new people, new home, new bedding, new food, new toys, new sounds and a new silence. Bringing a new dog home is adoption and would you not take some time if you were to adopt a child so do you not think the dog is at least entitled to getting to know you. Try not to make too many changes all in one go.

Make this first car trip before the puppy’s normally feeding time and let food be the reward on arriving at its new home. Give the dog some exercise before the trip to wear it out and then it is looking for a chance to rest. If you have taken a blanket some days or weeks before for all the puppies to use as bedding and having become impregnated with the puppies smell you can lay this down in the car to help to reduce the stress.

Make a short trip first before actually setting off like just around the car park and then let the dog out for a short walk and give lots of praise. Take the pup for a short circular trip and then return to the kennel as if you are returning it to the kennels. (We are wicked are we not)? This will make the pup think the next trip will also be back to the kennel. You can offer a toy to play with or a nice juicy bone to occupy its time. An arm through the dog guard stroking the dog may also help calm the dog. Do prepare for the eventuality that the trip may not go so well and try not to frighten your dog if it is sick or shows any signs of fear. Act normally and take your dog’s mind off it and onto something else. Be cautious and aware of the potential dangers of letting your dog sit on your lap. You do not intend to do this forever so why start now.

Other problems in traveling are dogs taken for a walk usually end up caked in mud or wet from swimming and should stay in the back but how many jump forward and wet your lovely upholstery making it look like a riverbed. How many of you still have the spot marks all over the car interior after a dog shook itself. Dogs locked in the car start to renovate your upholstery trying to dig themselves out of the windows or down at the doors. It is for these reasons I prefer a covered pickup and particular cab pickups. No longer are these considered as only workers vehicles, because now they are elevated to status symbols because they are so well equipped and wet smelly dogs are happy in the back drying off peacefully.

To solve most of these problems and for far greater canine safety one item I would advise purchasing is a training/traveling crate. Wolves and dogs naturally love a den of their own for their own feeling of security. To familiarise them to your dog take it into the house as they love and need somewhere to call home. There are many times dog are confined for travel, kennels or at the vets so if they are familiar with having a den then such times will be less stressful for your dog.

Strong steel mesh Crates are a real benefit used in the back of the car as the dog is under control and safer in the event of any accident for both dogs and humans. Imagine a loose dog in a sudden stop accident flying forward due to inertia. How many times has your dog slid off the seat when you had to break hard? (In Spain that is at least once every day) Driving with a dog wandering around the car is dangerous. I am not keen on the dog harnesses as they restrict the dog to turn around and appear generally uncomfortable. In big estate cars even with a dog-guard, the dog has too much room and in an accident results in injury when thrown about. They are also not that secure, as they are additions and not permanently fixed into place. If you stop and open a door, your dog could jump out in front of another vehicle. How many times have you opened the tailgate and tried to stop your dog jumping out? The designs of the lifting tailgates never considered dog behaviour. One further advantage is that you can leave tailgates and windows open allowing better air circulation and keep your dogs cool. With the grills that fit into the lowered windows, they are not that secure and I have known many dogs dislodge these as well as dog guards to gain an escape.

I fitted crates in the back of my covered pickup and whenever I left the back open to allow the air to circulate, I inevitably found the dogs asleep in their own crates. My dogs traveled all over the country so to them their beds simply went with them. They always slept in their own crate. Given the choice of sleeping at home in their individual runs and kennels or in the back of the pickup the pickup was the most popular.

One problem with big dogs is not all cars or even estate cars can accommodate standard crates. If you check out places that do welding, they may be able to fashion one for your particular car and appropriate for your dog. Sometimes if you have more that one dog then you may find a duel crate useful to stop any dog arguments in the back of the car. If you only have the one dog, it stops it checking your food purchases. (I could have sworn I bought some lamb chops today)

Ideally, you need to purchase new ones as your dog grows but this is expensive. If you can only buy one then, buy one that will fit a fully-grown dog. This should be big enough that your dog can stand without head bowed. Length will be one and a half the dog’s length with its tail down. The width should be the height of the dog to its shoulders. The dog can see all around and they are brilliant for any problem solving if any were to arise. Standard ones usually have a gate at the end and one at the side so this allows choice of fitting into your car.

It is important that you focus on the need to teach your dog to use its crate of its own accord. In the house leave this open as its sleeping quarters and teach your dog this is its place of retreat and where it can feel quite safe. Teach your dog to go into its crate occasionally after a meal to sleep. Once settled in preparation for use in the car just try moments of locking the door if your dog barks to come out say ‘quiet’ or ignore it until it is quiet and then let the dog out to show that only being quiet opens the door. Placed outside with the gate open and with a sun screen on the top allows for a perfect cool place for your dog to sleep in the sun with the air able to blow through. Our cats love to sleep in their wicker travel cases for the same reason. Before they would disappear whenever they saw the basket as it usually meant a trip to the vet.

Never treat crates like a cage or any type of dog bed as a punishment box like shouting ‘get in your bed’ as this will encourage your dog to wish to sleep somewhere else. Do not simply place your dog into it and lock the door expecting your dog to get use to it. It will in a fashion but it is cruel and likely to cause problems.

Training a dog to travel in a car does depend on the dog’s reaction. If it is not a keen traveler, you have to make car trips exciting and end with a reward like walking or other activities that your dog likes. If your dog always gets excited in the car and starts to bark incessantly we have to make trips to nowhere so there is no reward at the end of every trip. If your dog always wants to go out in the car as it does not want to be alone you have to teach it the delights of remaining at home. A dog given a juicy bone then taken on a short trip will want to get home as soon as possible. Some dogs will not get in a car and some will not get out. The old way to cure this was ether to yank the dog in or out of the car using a choker shouting, “get in” or “get out”. Thank goodness for more enlightenment times. We have cases where ordinarily docile pooches turn into the hound of the Baskervilles when they learn to start to guard the car. (Are all these problems making you wish to put the paper down and give up?)

It is not as bad as it would seem if we just remember to ask yourself what does a dog get out of whatever it is doing and break it down to a simple action to reaction solution. Guarding is from the first time your dog barks in fear as someone approaches your car and watch them walk away or flee. This rewards and each occasion reinforces to the dog its guarding abilities and it will just get worse as time goes by. The solution is to let people come up to your car with you there and just ignore the barking and eventually it will give up. If it barks when left in the car just start with short periods and then build it up. When you approach the car come from different directions so once out of sight they do not know where you have gone and so as in the wild they must just settle down and wait for your return. Try leaving them in the car at home with the tailgate open then they learn you cannot leave without them.

If dogs do not want to get in a car then find them a reason to want to jump in like a game or feed them in the back of the car. The reverse works for not getting out. If it gets out at home but not anywhere else then take its food with you and then it will get out or find a good game. Instead of issuing commands and thereby make getting out an issue why not just walk or run away and do something exciting at some distance away.

If your dog barks at you to let it out wait until it is quiet or if you have taught the speak command then say quiet and not let it out until it is. If your dog barks when you are getting near a place your dog likes just do not stop but go somewhere else. If you can see a dogs face when you drive right past where it thought it was going it is one of disbelief. If your dog barks whilst you are traveling find a quiet road and when the dog is barking, just stop and ignore the dog. Only when it is quiet do you set off again. Do not try this on the motorways. Remember do not reward bad or inappropriate behaviour.

Dogs will take to any form of travel given the right training but most more important is that your approach should be without showing any signs of concern. Trust in evolution that dogs are capable of being expert survivors.

Next week I have a 7-year-old staffy type dog that fiercely attacks all other dogs, defecates and urinates when restricted to the bedroom and will sit shaking in fear for no apparent reason. We will follow the dog through a behaviourist’s normal approach to these cures. (Not me I am just being nosy and need his bombproof dogs for this one.) If you have any questions or queries, please contact me.

Shih Tzu dogs breed

The compact Shih Tzu is the ideal canine companion. Originally bred for royalty in China, this little guy still considers himself a prince among dogs. A true sweetheart, his purpose in life is to love and be loved. Playful and mischievous, he will steal your shoes.

Once the prized lap dog of Chinese emperors, the Shih Tzu doesn’t see any reason to accept the slightest reduction in status. But his assumption that the world revolves around him rarely comes with arrogance or aggressiveness. The Shih Tzu is, somewhat inexplicably given his willingness to be spoiled, one of the sweeter of toy breeds and one of the more popular, too.



Shih Tzus do not guard, hunt, or tunnel into the earth, although they may retrieve balls for you to throw again. They are bred to do one thing, and they do it well: They are companion dogs who give love to the world and soak it back in. They’re an in-your-lap kind of dog. They’ll bark to alert you that someone is at the door; once whoever it is comes inside, there's a good chance your dog will like the person as long as you do, because they are trusting creatures.

Intelligent dogs, Shih Tzu like learning. They are good in obedience classes and can do great at agility and obedience competitions. They may take a little more time during training, and housebreaking can be a problem that requires perception and consistency on your end.

A Shih Tzu should get a short walk daily, but if you can’t, most will be content with using the furniture as a track course.

Colors in the breed are gold and white, red and white, black mask gold, solid red, black and white, solid black, solid liver, liver and white, blue and white, brindle and white, and silver and white.

A terrific apartment dog who does equally well in mansions and farms, he will adapt to whatever living arrangement you provide. What he can’t do is live outside. The Shih Tzu is too small, too human oriented, and too heat sensitive to live outdoors. He may not need a palace, but he definitely needs a home.



Other Quick Facts

  • Shih Tzus are often called chrysanthemum dogs because of the way their hair grows up from the nose and around the face in all directions.
  • The Shih Tzu may have originated in Tibet, bred by Tibetan lamas to be a tiny replica of a lion, which is associated with Buddhist mythology.
  • The Shih Tzu is prized for his small size, sweet nature, flowing coat, and intelligent mind.
  • The name is pronounced SHEED-zoo.


The History of Shih Tzus


Little is known about the origins of the Shih Tzu, but genetic testing tells us that he is one of the more ancient breeds in existence. It’s thought that he originated in Tibet, bred by Tibetan lamas to be a tiny replica of a lion, which is associated with Buddhist mythology. The smallest of the Tibetan breeds, he is noted for his heavy coat and tail that curves over the back. The Shih Tzu served as companions and watchdogs to the monks in the lamaseries. The happy and entertaining little dogs were surrounded by myths. One belief held that they were incarnations of mischievous household gods; another that they carried the souls of lamas who had not yet achieved nirvana, the transcendence of human desire.

The lamas presented the dogs as tribute to Chinese rulers, and it was at the Chinese imperial court that they received the name Shih Tzu, meaning “little lion” or “lion dog.” The Chinese also gave the Shih Tzu another name — chrysanthemum dog — because the hair on the face grows in all directions like the petals of the flower.

In China, the Shih Tzu was bred to have a stylized appearance. A fanciful “recipe” for the breed’s creation reads “a dash of lion, several teaspoons of rabbit, a couple of ounces of domestic cat, one part court jester, a dash of ballerina, a pinch of old man (Chinese), a bit of beggar, a tablespoon of monkey, one part baby seal, a dash of teddy bear, and the rest dogs of Tibetan and Chinese origin.”

The Peking (now Beijing) Kennel Club, when it wrote a breed standard for the Shih Tzu, also waxed poetic, describing the breed as having “the head of a lion, the round face of an owl, the lustrous eyes of a dragon, the oval tongue of a peony petal, the mouth of a frog, teeth like grains of rice, ears like palm leaves, the torso of a bear, the broad back of a tiger, the tail of a Phoenix, the legs of an elephant, toes like a mountain range, a yellow coat like a camel, and the movement of a fish.”

After the end of imperial rule in China, the little dogs might have disappeared, spurned as a reminder of bygone days, but fortunately some of them had been presented to foreigners, in particular General Douglas and Lady Brownrigg. They and others took some of the dogs to England. All modern Shih Tzu descend from only fourteen dogs.

World War II interrupted the breed’s development in England, but it survived and then thrived in the 1950s and 1960s. The American Kennel Club recognized the breed in 1969. Today the Shih Tzu is popular for his loyal, gentle, cheerful attitude. He ranks 10th among the breeds registered by the AKC, a position that has held steady for a decade.




Shih Tzu Temperament and Personality


Whatever you do, a Shih Tzu is willing to be there with you. He’s up for anything and isn’t demanding. He’s not high strung, either, and can make a great companion for a senior. If you’re doing something mundane like cleaning the refrigerator, he will sit by and watch in solidarity. If you’re watching TV, he’ll watch too. If you’re up for play, the Shih Tzu is too. If you’re tired, he’ll take a snooze along with you. He doesn’t care what you do as long as he’s doing it with you. Left with toys to play with, he can entertain himself and doesn’t mind if you work all day as long as you come home to him and give him some love.

Shih Tzus tend to like dogs and children. They enjoy play dates and can make great therapy dogs. Some like cats and some don’t; it seems to be entirely an individual preference rather than a breed trait.

He is playful and, on occasion, mischievous. He will steal your shoes. He may want you to chase him after he steals them. On the other hand, if he really wants them, he just might bury them. He’s not above taking toys from other dogs.

Toy breeds can easily become picky eaters, but that problem is often unintentionally created by people. Don’t let your Shih Tzu get away with it. GIve him time to adapt to what he is supposed to eat, as opposed to lunging for your cheesecake.

A Shih Tzu can be stubborn, but it’s hardly the hallmark of the breed. He may not give training the same priority that you do, and it may require some patience and extra time on your part to fully housebreak him. He can be terrific at agility, so he can certainly learn to follow commands. This vivacious little clown is confident and may have a bit too much self-importance, but that’s only to be expected given his imperial background.

Some Shih Tzus can chew too much stuff, nip a bit too often, jump on people, and lick enough to lose fur. The Shih Tzu feels that he is large and in charge, and he can growl to protect his food and toys if he isn’t taught to play nicely and share.

Any dog, no matter how sweet or small, can develop obnoxious levels of barking, chewing, and other undesirable behaviors if he is bored, untrained, or unsupervised. Start training your puppy the day you bring him home. He is capable of soaking up everything you can teach him. Never wait until he is 6 months old to begin training, or you will have a more headstrong dog to deal with. If possible, get him into puppy kindergarten class by the time he is 10 to 12 weeks old, and socialize, socialize, socialize. However, be aware that many puppy training classes require certain vaccines (like kennel cough) to be up to date, and many veterinarians recommend limited exposure to other dogs and public places until puppy vaccines (including rabies, distemper and parvovirus) have been completed. In lieu of formal training, you can begin training your puppy at home and socializing him among family and friends until puppy vaccines are completed.

Talk to the breeder, describe exactly what you’re looking for in a dog, and ask for assistance in selecting a puppy. Breeders see their puppies daily and can make uncannily accurate recommendations once they know something about your lifestyle and personality.

The perfect Shih Tzu doesn’t spring fully formed from the whelping box. He’s a product of his background and breeding. Whatever you want from a Shih Tzu, look for one whose parents have nice personalities and who has been well socialized from early puppyhood.


What You Need to Know About Shih Tzu Health


All dogs have the potential to develop genetic health problems, just as all people have the potential to inherit a particular disease. Run, don’t walk, from any breeder who does not offer a health guarantee on puppies, who tells you that the breed is 100 percent healthy and has no known problems, or who tells you that her puppies are isolated from the main part of the household for health reasons. A reputable breeder will be honest and open about health problems in the breed and the incidence with which they occur in her lines.

The Shih Tzu suffers from many of the health problems common to tiny dogs and has a few particular health problems of his own. Shih Tzus can have teeth that are misaligned or missing. Because their small mouths contribute to tooth crowding, they're also prone to periodontal disease and require regular veterinary dental care. They can also be born with a cleft lip and/or palate.

Like many small dogs, their kneecaps can pop out of position easily — the common condition known as luxating patellas. Their eyes protrude and can be easily scratched or injured, and their breathing can be full of snuffles and wheezes that sometimes turn into major respiratory problems.

Then there’s renal dysplasia, an inherited condition in which the dog’s kidneys don't develop normally. This is something a puppy inherits from his parents, so buy puppies only from breeders who test all their dogs for renal dysplasia. You’ll want to see documentation that both parents’ kidney function is normal. Unfortunately, not even normal kidney biopsies in both parents can guarantee puppies won’t develop renal dysplasia. Shih Tzu owners need to watch their puppies carefully for excessive thirst, failure to gain weight, or signs that they’re not thriving.

The Shih Tzu is prone to several inherited eye diseases, including cataracts and progressive retinal atrophy (PRA). A cataract is an opaque cloudiness that affects the eye lens. Vision is affected and the effects can range from slight impairment to blindness. Cataracts can be treated surgically. Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) is an inherited disease that leads to blindness. Shih Tzus are also prone to dry eye, or keratoconjunctivitis sicca -- a condition in which inadequate tear production leads to corneal dryness, pain, corneal ulcers, and other complications.

Dogs with bulging eyes, such as the Shih Tzu, are more likely to have an injury to the eyeball that causes the eyeball to bulge out of the orbit, called proptosis. When proptosis occurs, blood flow is cut off, and the lack of oxygen can result in blindness. It is a medical emergency.

Ingrown eyelashes, known as distichiasis, scrape and irritate the eye and can even scar it. Sometimes eyelash hairs burst through the eyelid (ectopic cilia). Both of these conditions can create corneal ulcers.

Like other brachycephalic (short-headed) breeds, Shih Tzus can have respiratory issues because of the shape of their head, face, and airways. Some brachycephalic dogs have an obstruction in their upper airways that makes it hard for the dogs to breathe. This by no means indicates that every flat-faced dog will have these issues. Severe problems can be treated surgically.

The Shih Tzu’s teeth come in a bit later than other breeds’, and they often fall out earlier than other breeds’. Shih Tzus can have underbites (or "undershot jaw") in which the lower jaw extends past the upper jaw, resulting in trauma to the gums and malocclusion of the teeth. They are also prone to periodontal disease and should have their teeth brushed daily.

The breeder should show you written documentation that both the puppy’s parents have had Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) patella (kneecap) evaluations, as well as eye clearances from the Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF).

If a breeder tells you she doesn’t need to do those tests because she’s never had problems in her lines, her dogs have been vet checked, or any of the other excuses bad breeders have for skimping on the genetic testing of their dogs, walk away immediately.

Careful breeders screen their breeding dogs for genetic disease and breed only the healthiest and best-looking specimens, but sometimes Mother Nature has other ideas and a puppy develops one of these diseases despite good breeding practices. Advances in veterinary medicine mean that in most cases the dogs can still live good lives. If you’re getting a puppy, ask the breeder about the ages of the dogs in her lines and what they died of.

Remember that after you’ve taken a new puppy into your home, you have the power to protect him from one of the more common health problems in dogs: obesity. Keeping a Shih Tzu at an appropriate weight is one of the easiest ways to extend his life. Make the most of diet and exercise to help ensure a healthier dog for life.


The Basics of Shih Tzu Grooming


Is it the Shih Tzu’s flowing locks of gold and white that made you fall in love with him? The Chinese emperors probably had an entire army of servants who did nothing but comb their dogs, because even one day without grooming and that coat can become a tangled mess.

Fortunately, the long coat is mostly seen in the show ring; retired champions and house pets mostly sport a short puppy clip. Some pet owners can do it themselves with a pair of scissors (difficult) or electric clippers, but keeping your Shih Tzu beautiful and free of mats and skin problems often requires regular professional grooming as well as daily combing at home. Tools you’ll need include a wire pin brush and a stainless steel comb with fine and coarse teeth.

Many Shih Tzu puppies who are approaching a year old tend to change coat; during this period they shed so profusely that you wouldn’t think it possible if you didn’t see it. Keep brushing daily, if not more often, through the change. Thankfully this is a short-term condition that lasts only about three weeks.

The coat is easier to care for after it changes. How much you need to brush or comb a Shih Tzu depends greatly on the texture of his particular coat. Some require daily care, and some need it only once a week. A softer coat gets matted more quickly — even more so if it is thick. A dirty coat will also mat quickly.

Bathe your Shih Tzu as often as you like, but be sure to comb out any tangles before you bathe him. They will tighten up when they get wet. Blow-dry the coat thoroughly to keep your Shih Tzu from getting chilled.

Comb the moustache and topknot daily. A puppy will have enough hair for a topknot when he is about 5 months old. Use a latex band sold at dog shows or good pet supply stores to tie the topknot. Rubber bands will break the hair.

The rest is basic care. Trim the nails as needed, usually every week or two. Clean the inner corners of the eyes daily with a damp washcloth to minimize staining. To keep the hind end clean, trim the fur around the anus. Brush the teeth with a vet-approved pet toothpaste for good overall health and fresh breath.


Finding a Shih Tzu


Whether you want to go with a breeder or get your dog from a shelter or rescue, here are some things to keep in mind.
Choosing a Shih Tzu Breeder

Finding a good breeder is a great way to find the right puppy. A good breeder will match you with the right puppy and will, without question, have done all the health certifications necessary to screen out health problems as much as possible. She is more interested in placing pups in the right homes than making big bucks.

Good breeders will welcome your questions about temperament, health clearances, and what the dogs are like to live with, and come right back at you with questions of their own about what you’re looking for in a dog and what kind of life you can provide for him. A good breeder can tell you about the history of the breed, explain why one puppy is considered pet quality while another is not, and discuss what health problems affect the breed and the steps she takes take to avoid those problems.

The American Shih Tzu Club is a good place to start your search for a responsible breeder. Look for a breeder who abides by the club’s code of ethics, which does not permit the sale of puppies through brokers, auctions, or commercial dealers such as pet stores. Breeders should sell puppies with written contracts guaranteeing they’ll take back the dogs at any time during their lives if the owners become unable to keep them, and with written documentation that both their puppies’ parents (and if possible, his other close relatives) have at a minimum had their knees and eyes examined and certified by the appropriate health organizations.

A Shih Tzu should weigh between 9 and 16 pounds, but some breeders produce, and some misguided puppy buyers want, even smaller dogs. So-called Teacup or Imperial Shih Tzus are simply dogs below the minimum healthy size for the breed. They’re marketed as something special, but are plagued with health problems and often live very short lives. The code of ethics of the ASTC specifically bars its members from breeding undersize dogs or using those terms to describe their puppies.

Avoid breeders who seem interested only in how quickly they can unload a puppy on you and whether your credit card will go through. You should also bear in mind that buying a puppy from a website that offers to ship your dog to you immediately can be a risky venture, as it leaves you no recourse if what you get isn’t exactly what you expected. Put at least as much effort into researching your puppy as you would into choosing a new car or expensive appliance. It will save you money in the long run.

Lots of reputable breeders have websites, so how can you tell who’s good and who’s not? Red flags include puppies always being available, multiple litters on the premises, having your choice of any puppy, and the ability to pay online with a credit card. Quickie online purchases are convenient, but they are almost never associated with reputable breeders.

Whether you’re planning to get your new best friend from a breeder, a pet store, or another source, don’t forget that old adage “let the buyer beware”. Disreputable breeders and facilities that deal with puppy mills can be hard to distinguish from reliable operations. There’s no 100% guaranteed way to make sure you’ll never purchase a sick puppy, but researching the breed (so you know what to expect), checking out the facility (to identify unhealthy conditions or sick animals), and asking the right questions can reduce the chances of heading into a disastrous situation. And don’t forget to ask your veterinarian, who can often refer you to a reputable breeder, breed rescue organization, or other reliable source for healthy puppies. 

And before you decide to buy a puppy, consider whether an adult Shih Tzu might better suit your needs and lifestyle. Puppies are loads of fun, but they require a lot of time and effort before they grow up to become the dog of your dreams. An adult Shih Tzu may already have some training and will probably be less active, destructive, and demanding than a puppy. 

With an adult, you know more about what you’re getting in terms of personality and health and you can find adults through breeders or shelters. If you are interested in acquiring an older dog through breeders, ask them about purchasing a retired show dog or if they know of an adult dog who needs a new home. If you want to adopt a dog, read the advice below on how to do that.

Adopting a Dog From a Shih Tzu Rescue or Shelter

There are many great options available if you want to adopt a dog from an animal shelter or breed rescue organization. Here is how to get started.

1. Use the Web

Sites like alldog360 can have you searching for a Shih Tzu in your area in no time flat. The site allows you to be very specific in your requests (housetraining status, for example) or very general (all the Shih Tzus available on Petfinder across the country). http://alldog360.blogspot.com/ can help you find animal rescue groups in your area. Also some local newspapers have “pets looking for homes” sections you can review.

Social media is another great way to find a dog. Post on your Facebook page that you are looking for a specific breed so that your entire community can be your eyes and ears.

2. Reach Out to Local Experts

Start talking with all the pet pros in your area about your desire for a Shih Tzu. That includes vets, dog walkers, and groomers. When someone has to make the tough decision to give up a dog, that person will often ask her own trusted network for recommendations.

3. Talk to Breed Rescue

Most people who love Shih Tzus love all Shih Tzus. That’s why breed clubs have rescue organizations devoted to taking care of homeless dogs. The American Shih Tzu Club can help you find a dog that may be the perfect companion for your family. You can also search online for other Shih Tzu rescues in your area.

The great thing about breed rescue groups is that they tend to be very upfront about any health conditions the dogs may have and are a valuable resource for advice. They also often offer fostering opportunities so, with training, you could bring a Shih Tzu home for a trial to see what the experience is like.

4. Key Questions to Ask

You now know the things to discuss with a breeder, but there are also questions you should discuss with shelter or rescue group staff or volunteers before you bring home a pup. These include:

What is his energy level?

How is he around other animals?

How does he respond to shelter workers, visitors, and children?

What is his personality like?

What is his age?

Is he housetrained?

Has he ever bitten or hurt anyone that they know of?

Are there any known health issues?

Wherever you acquire your Shih Tzu, make sure you have a good contract with the seller, shelter, or rescue group that spells out responsibilities on both sides. Petfinder offers an Adopters Bill of Rights that helps you understand what you can consider normal and appropriate when you get a dog from a shelter. In states with “puppy lemon laws,” be sure you and the person you get the dog from both understand your rights and recourses.

Puppy or adult, a breeder purchase or a rescue, take your Shih Tzu to your veterinarian soon after adoption. Your veterinarian will be able to spot problems and will work with you to set up a preventive regimen that will help you avoid many health issues.
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