Know About Canine Gout

Gout in dogs, even though it is rare, does exist. When it does present itself, it is very common to gout in humans in that it will mainly affect the dog's paws as well as the toes on the paws. Canine gout will also affect the dog's neck and elbows and has even been diagnosed in a dog's tongue. Even though gout in dogs has been diagnosed in these many locations, it is most commonly found in the dog's hind feet.

Owners of dogs with gout may notice a lump and/or bleeding on one of the dog's paws or on the dog's toe, there may be lesions in a location on the dog's paw, toe, neck or elbow that has a white, chalky substance seeping out and the dog may have blood in its urine. Other symptoms that may be observed are lumps on the dog's neck, the dog may need to urinate more than usual but have less urine, the dog's urine may appear gritty and the dog may just seem unhappy.

Diagnosing canine gout will be done by a veterinarian once the dog's owner has noticed these symptoms appearing. A diagnosis will probably be done by the vet taking a short medical history, a physical exam and a blood test. The blood test will determine the amount of uric acid in the dog's blood which is the cause of gout in dogs.

Treating gout in dogs is very similar to treating gout in humans. Most vets will prescribe Allopurinal which will reduce the amount of uric acid in the dog's blood. But, the dog owner should be aware of the side effects of Allopurinal, which includes cramping, nausea, diarrhea; pretty much just an upset stomach. Another treatment for canine gout is to change the dog's diet. The uric acid found in the dog's blood is related directly to the dog's diet and changing the diet will often times be the necessary treatment for this disease. A dog with gout should be fed a diet low in protein and high in fat. The dog owner may find other home remedies that work, such as apple cider vinegar added to the dog's water or emu oil massaged into the area on the dog's body where the gout is flaring up.

Anyone who has suffered from gout can definitely relate to the pain that a dog with gout is experiencing. But, with proper care and treatment the dog can have some relief and will be capable of leading a life that is as normal as possible for a dog with this disease. The main thing the owner will have to do is to watch the dog's diet, just like a human with gout.

Obesity in Dogs: How to Help Control It

Obesity may be the number one health problem for domestic pets. And, obesity leads to inactivity, which leads to more obesity and health conditions like heart and liver disease, diabetes, arthritis, and an increased surgical/anesthesia risk. Studies of our pets have shown that a quarter to a third of all American pets could stand to lose weight. As veterinary professionals, even we have trouble keeping a pet with a propensity to be overweight as healthy as we can.

Plump PupsObesity in dogs is unhealthy for more reasons than it is for humans:

Bone and joint problems can be caused or exacerbated by obesity.

An obese dog may have high blood pressure and is at risk for heart disease and more serious lung conditions. Many times the chest wall of the obese pet is layered with fat, which, because of its increased vascularity (many blood vessels), puts an unbelievable strain on the cardiovascular system.

Obesity also plays a major role in liver and kidney disease. Although the pet's organs remain the same size, his bigger body produces more waste products and toxins for the liver and kidneys to filter out. This increases their workload significantly.

In addition, being overweight or obese plays a huge role in cancer, diabetes, reproductive problems, stomach and intestinal problems, and even heat stroke.

The obese pet may even be at greater risk when being anesthetized for surgical procedures. Being obese can decrease your pet's life expectancy and make the life he does have very uncomfortable.

Bred For Fat?

Certain dog breeds have a propensity for fat. Dogs that were bred for working, like Labradors or Golden Retrievers, northern breeds like Malamutes or Huskies whose ancestors needed the extra layer, and Dachshunds, Beagles, and Shelties are among breeds that were created to be active and do work. When a breed that is bred for work does not do that work anymore, that breed tends to put on the pounds. However, this is no excuse for not trying to help your favorite companion be the healthiest he can be!

Ten Ways You Can HelpLong daily walks can help combat excess weight; they're good for you as an owner and they can increase the bond you have with your pet. Playing fetch is also effective.

Try to decrease food amounts. Start by decreasing by about 10% and decrease by 10% increments if your dog is not losing weight.

Treats should be given sparingly. Use lower fat alternatives such as Liver Lite Biscuits or bakedLow Fat Pig's Ears.

Feed a lower calorie food. Be sure that the food is of a high quality, since your pet will not be getting as many calories.

Salt-free canned vegetables, such as string beans, can be used to bulk up the food. If you don't want to spend the extra money on a low sodium product, rinse the vegetables well under running water.

If your dog's constitution can tolerate vegetable scraps like the ends of broccoli or carrots, they are a good way of getting more bulk into your dog's diet.

Use physical aids like ramps or stairs to assist pets that have trouble accessing automobiles or furniture while you work on introducing healthy activity.

Start your pet on a joint support product such as Joint Care 3 before joint issues arise. If your pet already has joint problems, ask your veterinarian abour prescription options.

Make sure your overweight pet has a comfortable bed that provides orthopedic support and elevates your pet off cold, hard floors.

Obesity in Dogs

Most owners don't recognize that their dogs are overweight until theytake them to the veterinarian for another reason. Most pets begin slowly gaining weight and only a historical review ofbody weight reveals the insidious nature of this condition.

Dogs that are overweight may experience difficulty breathing or walking or they may be unable to tolerate heat orexercise.

Diagnosis

Veterinary care should include diagnostic tests to determine overall health and to provide recommendations for weightloss.

Diagnostic tests may include:

A thorough veterinary examination, including an accurate measure of body weight and an assessment of body condition score. A historical review of changes in your dog's body weight is often helpful in establishing a pattern of weight gain and may help identify a particular event or change in environment that relates to the increase in body weight.

Routine blood work including a complete blood cell count, serum profile and urinalysis are necessary to determine if there is an underlying disease. If the results of these tests indicate a problem, additional tests are warranted to specifically identify the condition before starting a weight loss program.

Assessment of your dog's current daily intake of all food, treats, snacks, table foods and exercise schedule is important in the development of a successful weight loss program. Clearly if the calculated caloric intake exceeds the calculated daily energy requirement of the dog at an ideal body weight, then excessive caloric intake is the cause of the obesity.

Treatment

Treatment of any concurrent or underlying disease that affects obesity is recommended. 

Lower your dog's daily caloric intake by changing the dog food product (there are several diets formulated for weight loss) or the amount fed daily.

Increasing fiber or water intake may sometimes be necessary to satiate your dog.

Increase exercise activity. To enhance exercise, a variety of leashes and toys are available.

Dogs : QUESTIONS and ANSWERS

What should I do if my pet picks up a tick?

A number of sprays, spot-on treatments and collars are licensed to kill and / or repel ticks. Unfortunately even a dead tick can stay attached and the best option may be to remove it. This needs to be done with great care, since simply pulling the tick may result in part of it being left in your pet. Tick removing tools are available to ensure you remove the whole tick, however if you are unsure of how to safely detach the tick you must consult your vet.

How can I tell if my dog has worms?

Unfortunately, in many cases it can be difficult to determine if your dog has worms by simply looking at him or indeed his faeces. Some dogs with a heavy worm burden may look thin and have diarrhoea, however many healthy looking dogs may also have worms. It is recommended that dogs are routinely wormed on a regular basis to eliminate this problem.

How often should I worm my dog?

As a general recommendation adult dogs should be wormed at least every 3 months. Puppies require more frequent worming until they are 6 months old as many pups will already have some worms when they are born. To minimise the amount of worms passed to the pup it is very important that pregnant bitches are also wormed with a product safe to use in pregnancy. Your vet will be able to advise you about the best worming regime based on your dog’s lifestyle.

I think my dog has got fleas. What should I do to get rid of them?

Fleas are a very common problem for dogs and in some cases can cause skin reactions to both dog and owner. Fortunately, in the vast majority of cases, this is a problem that can easily be eliminated. There are many flea preparations available and your vet will be able to advise you on the correct one for your pet. Read the packaging of any medicinal product carefully and do not use dog products on cats unless your vet has instructed you to do this, since some dog treatments are potentially very dangerous when used on cats. 

If you have found fleas on your dog, there is a high possibility that there will also be fleas in your house. Although some products used on cats and dogs have activity on fleas within the home, it is often advisable to treat the house with an appropriate household spray too. You should continue to treat your pet against fleas regularly as a preventative measure to avoid reinfestation.

Should I brush my dog’s teeth?

Many dogs enjoy regular chewing. Rawhide chews are popular and are available in medicated form and this type of exercise can be helpful in delaying the onset of dental disease. However just like people, dog’s teeth can get a build up of tartar on them which ultimately leads to gum and dental disease. It is a good idea to brush your dog’s teeth on a regular basis, preferably every day. This can take some practice at first as your dog gets used to the idea. It is often easiest to start this regime when your dog is a puppy as they are more willing to accept new ideas at this stage. Dog toothbrushes and toothpaste are available and if you are unsure how to brush your dog’s teeth, contact your veterinary practice and one of the vets or nurses will be able to show you. Ensure you only use dog toothpaste as human toothpaste contains a foaming agent which should not be used in dogs. Bad breath, or difficulty experienced in brushing your dog’s teeth may indicate a problem, and a veterinary opinion should be sought.

Should I insure my pet?

Insuring your pet will give you peace of mind that should they be involved in an accident or suffer from illness the veterinary fees will be covered (minus any excess or exemptions). There are many different policies available and it is a good idea to read through the policy details very carefully. Different policies will have different excesses and limits. Some are lifelong policies and some will only cover diseases for one year. Ensure you know what will and won’t be covered with the policy you choose.

What do I need to do if I want to travel abroad with my dog?

Your veterinary practice will be able to advise you on the details of taking your dog abroad. The process involves microchipping, rabies vaccination, blood sampling and a Pet Travel Scheme (PETS) passport. This is a lengthy process and it takes at least 7 months from the vaccination day until your dog would be able to return to the UK. You need to also consider protecting your dog against some infectious diseases that dogs could be exposed to that are not present in the UK. Again, your vet will be able to advise you on the best preventative measures available.

How often should I carry out a healthcheck on my pet?

You should check your pet on a daily basis to make sure there are no signs of disease or injury. Simple changes in behaviour in relation to feeding, activity and toilet habits often give a clue that all is not normal. If in doubt or you find anything abnormal contact your vet for advice.

How often should I take my dog to the vet?

Your dog will require annual vaccination and at this point a full health examination will be carried out by your vet. Your vet may advise more frequent visits if there are aspects of your dog’s health that require regular monitoring. If you have any concerns about your dog, contact your vet for advice.

What diseases should I vaccinate my dog against?

Your vet will be able to advise you on the vaccinations required based on your pet’s lifestyle. The majority of dogs in the UK are vaccinated against canine parvovirus, canine distemper, canine infectious hepatitis, canine parainfluenza and leptospirosis. Dogs that are socialising with other dogs should also be vaccinated against bordetella, which is the major cause of kennel cough. If you are taking your dog abroad it will also need a rabies vaccination.

There’s an outbreak of parvovirus in my area. Should I get my dog vaccinated against the disease?

If your dog is up-to-date with his vaccinations it is unlikely that he will require another vaccination. If you are unsure about your dog’s vaccination status, contact your vet to check. If your dog is not vaccinated or hasn’t been vaccinated for a long time, then vaccination will be the best way to offer your dog protection against this disease. If your dog is already incubating or has already developed a disease, vaccination is unlikely to be effective. Again, contact your vet for advice.

How often should I feed my dog?

Smaller, regular meals are better for your dog’s digestive system than 1 large meal. It is very important not to overfeed your dog as obesity is becoming a big problem. Stick to a measured quantity commercial balanced ‘complete’ diet and try to avoid too many treats as these contribute to obesity. Commercial diet guidelines are only a guide to quantity and the appropriate amount will depend on your dog’s lifestage and activity. Your veterinary surgeon should be able to give more specific advice.

How often should I walk my dog?

Regular daily exercise is essential for your dog’s health. At least 2 walks are recommended each day - the precise amount needed will vary depending on the specific breed and size of dog. Try to do the same amount of exercise every day, rather than a quick 10 minute walk during the week and a 3 hour hike at the weekend.

Should I get my pet microchipped?

A pet microchip is a tiny device containing a unique number. Microchipping your pet is a method of permanently identifying them with this unique number. This means that should your pet get lost or stolen the chances of being reunited with him is much higher. Animal rescue centres, the police and vets will scan any stray animal for a microchip, and if microchipped will be able to return the pet to its owner.

I think my dog is overweight. What should I do?

Obesity is a common problem in pet dogs and can cause many health problems. If you are concerned that your dog is overweight contact your veterinary practice. They will be able to weigh your dog for you and advise you on the target weight and how best to achieve this. They will also monitor your dog’s progress and make sure there are no medical reasons for your dog’s weight problem.

I’ve been bitten by a strange dog. Have I got rabies?

Fortunately the UK is currently free of fox rabies. Bites, however, can still be serious because some very unpleasant bacteria can live in dog’s mouths. Tetanus is also a specific risk that needs to be considered. Contact your vet for advice on dog bites as some infections, if left untreated, can prove to be very serious indeed.

THE HEALTHY DOG

Your dog will rely on you to keep him in good health. A proper diet, regular exercise and grooming, and routine check-ups at the veterinarian will help keep your dog in top form. It’s also important for you to get to know your dog’s habits – eating, drinking, sleeping, and so forth – since sometimes a variation in those habits can be an indication that he isn’t feeling well.

The information on this page should be used as a guide for keeping your dog healthy and identifying problems. Ask your veterinarian for advice on healthcare and prevention and be sure to seek medical advice if you think your dog is ill or hurt. The AKC Pet Healthcare Plan can help with the cost of providing quality healthcare throughout your dog’s life.

Topics on this page: Signs of Good Health, Vaccinations, Spaying and Neutering, When to Call the Vet

Signs of Good Health
Skin – Healthy skin is flexible and smooth, without scabs, growths, white flakes, or red areas. It ranges in color from pale pink to brown or black depending on the breed. Spotted skin is normal, whether the dog has a spotted or solid coat. Check your dog for fleas, ticks, lice, or other external parasites. To do this, blow gently on your dog’s stomach or brush hair backward in a few places to see if any small specks scurry away or if ticks are clinging to the skin. Black "dirt" on your dog’s skin or bedding may be a sign of flea droppings.

Coat – A healthy coat, whether short or long, is glossy and pliable, without dandruff, bald spots, or excessive oiliness.

Eyes – Healthy eyes are bright and shiny. Mucus and watery tears are normal but should be minimal and clear. The pink lining of the eyelids should not be inflamed, swollen, or have a yellow discharge. Sometimes you can see your dog’s third eyelid, a light membrane, at the inside corner of an eye. It may slowly come up to cover his eye as he goes to sleep. The whites of your dog’s eyes should not be yellowish. Eyelashes should not rub the eyeball.

Ears – The skin inside your dog’s ears should be light pink and clean. There should be some yellow or brownish wax, but a large amount of wax or crust is abnormal. There should be no redness or swelling inside the ear, and your dog shouldn’t scratch his ears or shake his head frequently. Dogs with long, hairy ears, such as Cocker Spaniels, need extra attention to keep the ears dry and clean inside and out.

Nose – A dog’s nose is usually cool and moist. It can be black, pink, or self-colored (the same color as the coat), depending on the breed. Nasal discharge should be clear, never yellowish, thick, bubbly, or foul smelling. A cool, wet nose does not necessarily mean the dog is healthy, and a dry, warm nose doesn’t necessarily mean he’s sick. Taking his temperature is a better indication of illness.

Mouth, Teeth and Gums – Healthy gums are firm and pink, black, or spotted, just like the dog’s skin. Young dogs have smooth white teeth that tend to darken with age. Puppies have 23 baby teeth and adults have around 42 permanent teeth, depending on the breed. As adult teeth come in, they push baby teeth out of the mouth.

To check your dog’s mouth, talk to him gently, then put your hand over the muzzle and lift up the sides of his mouth. Check that adult teeth are coming in as they should, and not being crowded by baby teeth. Make sure the gums are healthy and the breath is not foul-smelling. Look for soft white matter or hard white, yellow, or brown matter. This is plaque or tartar and should be brushed away.

Mouth infections can lead to serious problems in the gums and other parts of the body, including the heart, so it's important to give your dog's teeth and mouth special attention.

Temperature – A dog’s normal temperature is 101 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit (38.3 to 39.2 degrees Celcius). To take your dog's temperature, you'll need a rectal thermometer. Put some petroleum jelly on the bulb of the thermometer. Ask someone to hold your dog’s head while you lift his tail and insert the thermometer about an inch or so into the rectum. Do not let go of the thermometer. Hold it in until the temperature is read (about 3 minutes for a mercury thermometer), and then remove gently.

Heartbeat and Pulse – Because dogs come in a wide range of sizes, their heartbeats vary. A normal heart beats from 50 to 130 times a minute in a resting dog. Puppies and small dogs have faster speeds, and large dogs in top condition have slower heartbeats. To check your dog’s heartbeat, place your fingers over the left side of the chest, where you can feel the strongest beat. To check the pulse, which is the same speed as the heartbeat, press gently on the inside of the top of the hind leg. There is an artery there and the skin is thin, so it's easy to feel the pulse.

Elimination – Urine is a good indicator of a dog’s health, and should be clear yellow. Most adult dogs have one or two bowel movements a day. Stools should be brown and firm. Runny, watery, or bloody stools, straining, or too much or too little urination warrant a call to the veterinarian.

Weight – A healthy dog’s weight is the result of the balance between diet and exercise. If he is getting enough nutritious food and exercise but still seems over- or underweight, he may have a health problem. Don’t let your dog get fat by giving him too many between-meal snacks; obese dogs often develop serious health problems. The best way to tell if your dog is overweight is to feel his rib-cage area. You should be able to feel the ribs below the surface of the skin without much padding.

Vaccinations
Regular vaccinations from your veterinarian can keep your dog from getting serious and sometimes fatal illnesses such as distemper, parvovirus, hepatitis, leptospirosis, coronavirus, and rabies. A vaccination is also available for kennel cough, a respiratory problem that affects young dogs or dogs exposed to many other dogs.

A puppy’s first vaccines ideally should be given at five or six weeks of age and continue over a period of several weeks, up to sixteen weeks. Afterward, yearly booster shots provide the protection your dog will need. Be sure to stick to the schedule your veterinarian gives you to insure immunity.
Spaying or Neutering Your Dog

Unless you know you are going to show your dog, it is best to have your female spayed or your male neutered. Spaying or neutering is a fail-safe method of birth control.

A spay operation removes the female dog’s ovaries and uterus. A spayed female will not come into season two or three times a year, as unspayed females do. She will not attract male dogs from miles around, she will not discharge on rugs, sofas, or bedding, and she will not be prone to diseases such as pyometra (uterine infection) and mammary cancer.

A neutered male cannot breed successfully. His desire to roam in search of females will be reduced, and he may be less aggressive in defending his territory. Also, he will be less susceptible to prostate cancer.

Apart from these benefits, spaying or neutering will not change your dog’s personality.

When to Call the Vet
You should alert your veterinarian if your dog exhibits any unusual behavior, including the following symptoms:

• Vomiting, diarrhea, or excessive urination for more than twelve hours.
• Fainting.
• Loss of balance, staggering, falling.
• Constipation or straining to urinate.
• Runny eyes or nose.
• Persistent scratching at eyes or ears.
• Thick discharge from eyes, ears, nose, or sores.
• Coughing or sneezing.
• Difficulty breathing, prolonged panting.
• Shivering.
• Whining for no apparent reason.
• Loss of appetite for 24 hours or more.
• Weight loss.
• Dramatic increase in appetite for 24 hours or more.
• Increased restlessness.
• Excessive sleeping or unusual lack of activity.
• Limping, holding, or protecting part of the body.
• Excessive drinking of water.

Havanese dogs breed

The crew at MistyTrails Havanese—Reo at 1.5 years, Conchita at 1 year, Purdy at 4 months, Lucy and Splash at 3 months, Sebastion at 3 years and Catreeya at 4 years old

Description

 If never primped, clipped or altered in any way, the Havanese gives a rugged impression in a little dog. The legs are strong and allow for free and easy movement. The dark eyes and long tail are covered with long, silky hair. The profuse coat varies from wavy to curly to corded. The corded coat is recognized by both the AKC (American Kennel Club) and the CKC (Canadian Kennel Club). The Havanese is a double-coated breed with soft hair, both on the outer coat and undercoat. The adult coat reaches 6 to 8 inches, and has a pearly sheen. Some Havanese carry a shorthaired recessive gene. If two adults with this recessive gene have a litter of puppies, it is possible that some of the puppies will be born with smooth coats. A Havanese with a short coat cannot be shown, as it is a serious fault in the show arena. Some have nicknamed the Havanese born with short coats Shavanese. Eye rims, nose and lips are solid black on all colors except the true chocolate dog. The Havanese comes in any color, including cream, gold, white, silver, blue and black. Also parti and tricolor. In North America, all colors are recognized; no preference is given to one color over another. Black and chocolate are preferred colors with many North American breeders. A chocolate Havanese must retain at least a 1 inch (2.6 cm) patch of chocolate hair. Chocolates also have green or amber eyes. In some European countries the black and chocolate dogs were not always recognized, but the black dogs have been recognized for several years, and the chocolate dogs are now recently recognized. The gait is unique, lively and ”springy," which accentuates the happy character of the Havanese. Tail is carried up over the back when gaiting. The breed is of solid physical type and sound constitution. The Havanese is sturdy, and while a small breed, it is neither fragile nor overdone.

Temperament 

Havanese are natural companion dogs, gentle and responsive. They become very attached to their human families and are excellent with children. Very affectionate and playful with a high degree of intelligence, these cheerful dogs are very sociable and will get along with everyone including people, dogs, cats and other pets. They are easy to obedience train. This curious dog loves to observe what is going on. It is sensitive to the tone of one's voice and will not listen if it senses that it is stronger minded than its owner, however it will also not respond well to harsh discipline. Owners need to be calm, yet possess an air of natural authority. The Havanese has a long reputation of being a circus dogs, probably because it learns quickly and enjoys doing things for people. Few tend to bark a lot, as they can be taught not to do this; it is not their nature to bark a lot. It is best to teach them not to bark unnecessarily while they are still young to prevent it from becoming a habit. Havanese are good watch dogs, making sure to alert you when a visitor arrives, but will quickly welcome the guest once it sees you welcome them. Some dogs that have not been properly socialized may exhibit a degree of shyness around strangers, but this is not characteristic of the breed. Havanese live for your every word and gesture. They should be neither timid nor aggressive—if they are, that is a result of a human who is not providing proper pack leadership and/or nottreating the dog like a canine, but rather a human. The Havanese shows no cowardice, in spite of its size. Do not allow the Havanese to develop Small Dog Syndrome.

Height: 8 - 11 inches (20 - 28 cm)

Weight: 7 - 13 pounds (3 - 6 kg)

Health Problems 

This is a very healthy long-lived breed, however, all long-lived breeds eventually have health problems. Some are prone to hip dysplasia, PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy), poodle eye, juvenile heritable cataracts,, Chonrdodyplasia, patellar luxation (dislocated kneecaps), Legg-Calve Perthes Disease, unilateral and bilateral deafness and dry skin.

Living Conditions Havanese are good for apartment life. They are very active indoors and will do okay without a yard. Havanese are born to live in your home, and not in a patio or a kennel, but at the same time, they require plenty of exercise.

Exercise This playful little dog has an average demand for exercise. This breed needs to be taken on a daily walk. While walking be sure to make the dog heel on the lead. It is an instinct for a dog to migrate daily and to have a leader, and in their mind the leader leads the way. This is very important to raising a well-rounded, balanced pet.

Life Expectancy About 14-15 years

Litter Size 1 - 9 puppies, average 4

Grooming 

For pets, the coat can be clipped short for easier care. If the coat is to be kept long it needs to be thoroughly brushed and combed at least twice a week. There is a lotion available to prevent the hair from splitting. Corded coats require special care. Clip excess hair from between the pads of the feet. The feet themselves may be clipped to look round. Show dogs need a great deal more grooming. There is little to no shedding, so dead hair must be removed by brushing. Check the eyes and ears regularly. If the ears are not kept clean it is prone to get an ear infection. The beauty of a well groomed Havanese is that he still looks tousled and carefree. If you accustom your dog to nail clipping from puppy age, she should accept the routine as an adult. Teeth should be brushed weekly, and this is also best started as a puppy. This breed is good for allergy sufferers. They are a non-shedding, hypo-allergenic dog. However, the Shavanese (Havanese born with a short coat) which have coats more like the average dog and are comparable in looks to a Papillon, do shed. It is believed, but not yet 100% confirmed, that unlike the longhaired Havanese, the short haired Shavanese is not hypo-allergenic and therefore not a good choice for allergy sufferers.

Origin 

Following the French, Cuban and Russian revolutions, the Havanese were almost extinct. Now rare in Cuba, the breed has been facing a crisis through the 1900s, but is presently on the rise in popularity, having some dedicated believers in the breed who are actively campaigning for its preservation in the USA. This dog belongs to the family of dogs called Bichons. The French word Bichon Frise means "fleecy dog" or "curly lap dog." "Bichon" refers to the bearded appearance of the breed, as the word "barbichon" means little beard, while the word "Frise" means curly. The Bichon Havanese originated in Cuba from an earlier breed known as Blanquito de la Habana (also called Havanese Silk Dog—a now extinct breed). The Bichon Havanese adorned and enlivened the homes of aristocratic Cubans during the 18th and 19th centuries. Bichon lapdogs were being brought to Cuba in 17th century from Europe; they adapted to climate and customs of Cuba. Eventually, these conditions gave birth to a different dog, smaller than its predecessors, with a completely white coat of a silkier texture. This dog was the Blanquito de la Habana. In the 19th century, the Cubans took to liking the French and German Poodles, which were crossed with the existing Blanquito to create today's Bichon Havanese. In the development of the Havanese, the Blanquito was much more dominant than the Poodle. The Bichon Havanese originated in the 19th century (1800-11899). It was continually bred in Cuba all through the 20th century (1900-1999) and was the preferred pet/dog of Cuban families. Breeding the Havanese in the USA only started in the 1970s. In the 1960s many Cubans migrated to USA. Most Cuban refugees settled in Florida and some brought their pets (Havanese). A U.S. breeder, Mrs. Goodale saved the breed from extinction. She advertised in a Florida paper, and found two or three immigrant families who had brought their Havanese from Cuba with papers. From them, Mrs. Goodale got 6 Bichon Havanese with pedigrees: a female with 4 female pups, and a young unrelated male. Later she was able to get 5 more males from Costa Rica. As an experienced breeder, Mrs. Goodale began working with the 11 dogs. Her first lines appeared in 1974. The UKC recognized them in 1991. The AKC recognized them in 1996. The CKC (Canadian Kennel Club) recognized them in 2001. Around 1980, several German breeders started finding odd-coated puppies in litters with regular Havanese. As these pups matured they did not grow full coats like their other littermates. They had feathering on the skirts, tail, legs, chest and ears—the rest of the body hair was close lying. They oddly enough grew up to have smooth coats. Breeders got together and found that this was happening in other litters of Havanese and was not a chance genetic mutation in one single litter, but something carried in a lot of Havanese as a recessive gene. These dogs were called smooth-coated Havanese, but have picked up the name Shavanese somewhere along the line. The short-coated Havanese are not showable or breedable, however they are perfectly healthy.

Common Causes of Incontinence in Dogs

Incontinence can be incredibly frustrating for both dog and owner alike. Owners may mistakenly believe their dog is simply ignoring house rules or has forgotten his or her housetraining. And dogs may have to cope with waking up covered in urine to face an angry owner. Dog incontinence is not a voluntary problem; your dog has not suddenly regressed. Instead, this is a serious medical problem that requires a consultation with a qualified veterinarian. Here are the most common causes of canine incontinence:

Senility and Cognitive Dysfunction

Just like people, dogs' brain functioning can deteriorate with age. With this deterioration can come a loss of housetraining and bladder control skills. If your dog is suddenly having difficulty following house rules or has forgotten basic commands he's always known, he may be suffering from senility. While in most cases senility must be managed instead of cured, some dog trainers have had success re-teaching senile dogs skills they once knew well. Talk to your vet about medical and training options for your dog.

Bladder Infections

Bladder infections are especially common in unspayed female dogs, but any dog can get one. These infections cause an overwhelming and uncontrollable urge to urinate and are especially likely to lead to a dog peeing in her sleep. If your dog is suddenly struggling with incontinence, it may be a bladder infection.

Spay Incontinence

In some cases, spaying a female dog can cause minor damage to her urethra, leading to a condition called spay incontinence. This condition may occur right after spaying or years later, but is normally very treatable. 

Breed

Some breeds of dog are more susceptible to incontinence throughout the course of their lives, but particularly as they age. The precise reason for this is unknown but could range from minor anatomical differences to minor differences in brain wiring. Labs, Collies, and Miniature Poodles are especially susceptible to incontinence.

Cancer

Bladder or Ureter cancer can cause a blockage that leads to incontinence. If your dog's incontinence has gotten slowly worse over the course of several months or weeks, this may indicate a more severe problem and you should encourage your vet to check your dog for potential tumors and other blockages.

Injury

A dog with an injury, hip dysplasia, or other muscle or bone pain may temporarily appear to be incontinent because it is too difficult or painful to get around. If your dog has recently fallen and is no longer behaving like she is housetrained, she may have a serious injury that is limiting her mobility.

Anxiety and Stress

Just like people, dogs' medical conditions can be exacerbated by stress and anxiety. Moving, a new dog, or a new person living in the house can all make dogs anxious. A dog who has a predisposition toward incontinence may become incontinent if he or she is stressed. If your vet can find nothing physically wrong with your dog, it's important to take a look at anything that may have changed in the environment and made her feel fearful.

Whatever the circumstances surrounding your dog's incontinence, it is important that your dog see a vet right away. Incontinence is unlikely to go away on its own, but the earlier the condition is caught, the more effective treatment will be.

About Urinary Incontinence in Dogs

Urinary incontinence is the involuntary passing of urine. Pets can be incontinent for many different reasons. Those reasons can involve the bladder, the urethra which is the tube from the bladder to the outside, or incontinence can be caused by abnormalities in the parts of the brain and spinal cord that control bladder function. Incontinence can be confused with diseases that cause a pet to urinate frequently. A physical exam and laboratory tests will help in the proper diagnosis.

More than 20% of spayed females are affected with urinary incontinence. Both male and female dogs can be affected, with medium to large breeds being more prone for the problem. The number of cases is likely to increase with the growing number of older dogs, advances in geriatric veterinary care and significant amount of time pets spend indoors. Urethral Sphincter Mechanism Incompetence is the most commonly diagnosed cause of urinary incontinence: 81% of incontinent adult females and 57% of all dogs with involuntary urine loss. Phenylpropanolamine (PPA) is the most frequently dispensed medication for this type of incontinence.

Incontinence can be confused with submissive urination. Submissive urination occurs when a dog is acting submissive to a person or to another dog. Submissive urination occurs more frequently in young animals. The dog usually rolls on its back and urinates. These dogs can also urinate normally.

Young animals may have a birth defect causing incontinence. The most common birth defect that causes incontinence in young dogs is ectopic ureter(s). The ureters carry urine from the kidneys to the bladder. If one or both ureters by-pass the bladder and connect to an abnormal location such as the urethra or vagina, the puppy may drip urine. Siberian Huskies are most often affected. Other breeds that have a higher occurrence of this birth defect include:

• Miniature Poodle
• Labrador Retriever
• Collie
• Welsh Corgi
• Wire-haired Fox Terrier
• West Highland White Terrier

Female dogs are more commonly affected. If only one ureter is abnormal the dog will dribble urine but can also urinate normally. If both ureters are affected then the puppy will only dribble urine and cannot pass urine normally. To diagnose this condition a dye study of the bladder is usually performed. Sometimes the abnormal opening into the vagina can be seen during a careful examination under anesthesia using special equipment. Most puppies with ectopic ureter(s) also have a bladder infection that will improve with antibiotics but the infection will return until the problem is corrected. In some cases the ureter can be surgically moved back to the normal location in the bladder and incontinence may resolve. In other cases, long standing infection of the kidney may have damaged the kidney requiring the removal of one kidney. In yet other cases the abnormality of the ureter can be corrected but the pet remains incontinent, probably due to the presence of other birth defects in the urinary system.

A bladder infection can cause either a strong urge to urinate or if the bladder infection is long standing it can cause scarring of the bladder preventing it from stretching to hold urine. In this case the pet is usually not truly incontinent in that they know they are urinating, but they have such a strong urge to empty their bladder that they may urinate in abnormal locations or urinate very frequently. It is common to evaluate incontinent pets for the presence of a bladder infection. 

Pets with a partial blockage of the urethra with a stone or a tumor may show incontinence. If they cannot empty their bladder completely because something is blocking the path to the outside, the bladder may get so large that the back pressure of urine in the bladder actually forces some urine to leak around the blockage. In these pets the enlarged bladder can be felt on examination. Total blockage of urine flow is usually fatal in 3 to 4 days.

Hormone-responsive incontinence occurs in neutered dogs of both sexes and occasionally in spayed female cats but occurs most commonly in female dogs. The pet can urinate normally, but they leak urine while resting. Physical examination and blood and urine tests are usually normal in these pets. Hormone-responsive incontinence can occur months to years after a pet is neutered. As pets age they may become incontinent. This may be due to a weakening of the muscles that hold urine in the bladder. There are many diseases that can cause a pet to create more urine than normal (polyuria) and several of these occur in older pets. If a pet has one of these diseases and often has a full bladder, the full bladder can push against the weakened sphincter and cause incontinence. Older pets can also develop senility and simply be unaware that they are dribbling urine.

Dogs with brain or spinal cord disease may either dribble urine or be unable to pass urine. Most often they will have other signs of nervous system disease such as muscle weakness or paralysis.

A less common cause of incontinence in female dogs is called vulvovaginal stenosis. It is a condition in which the vagina at the level where the urethra ends is narrowed. Occasionally when the pet urinates, some urine will get trapped in the vagina in front of this narrowed area. Then when they rise after lying down the urine pours out. This condition can be diagnosed by feeling the vagina with a gloved finger. In some dogs the narrowing can be stretched under anesthesia. The incontinence may or may not resolve as sometimes other defects are also present. 

Diagnosis of incontinence

The tests performed to evaluate a pet with incontinence depend upon the age of the pet and on the presence or absence of other signs. It is common to collect a urine sample for bacterial culture and to see if the urine is dilute or shows evidence of an infection. Infections of the urine may be secondary to another cause of incontinence.

Questions that your veterinarian will ask to help identify the cause of your pets problem include:

• The age when incontinence first appeared 
• When the incontinence is usually observed, for example at rest or with activity
• Whether the pet can urinate normally 
• Previous surgeries (such as neutering) and illness 
• Use of medications that might cause the urine to be dilute such as diuretics, anticonvulsants or prednisone 
• How much water the pet drinks
• How frequently the pet urinates and whether the pet seems to be uncomfortable when he or she urinates
• Whether the pet shows any signs of nervous system disease such as weakness or seizures

Blood tests may be performed to look for evidence of kidney damage from infection or for the presence of diseases that might lead to increased urine production. 

Plain and/or dye X-rays or ultrasound may be performed to look at the parts of the urinary tract. 

Treating the Incontinent Patient

Specific treatment of an underlying disease may resolve incontinence; for example, surgery to correct an ectopic ureter. Inappropriate urination caused by behavioral problems may be corrected with training that modifies the pets behavior.

When no specific cause can be identified for the incontinence drugs may be given that increase the tone of the muscles that hold urine in the bladder. Some drugs that are used for this purpose include estrogen, ephedrine and phenylpropanolamine. Phenylpropanolamine is a sympathomimetic, non-hormonal agent which increases sphincter tone and alleviates urinary incontinence by stimulation of the alpha adrenergic receptors in the urethral muscle.

Drug therapy for incontinence may be based on trial of different drugs in various doses. Since some of these drugs can have side effects so low doses are tried first. Some drugs may be slow to have an effect so as long as there are no undesirable side effects, a drug trial should continue for several weeks before the drug is considered not to be effective.

Urinary Incontinence and Bladder Problems in Dogs

Incontinence is loss of voluntary control over the act of voiding. This medical condition must to be differentiated from a housetraining problem and/or submissive urination, especially in young dogs. Incontinent dogs wet their bed or the floor where they are sleeping, urinate inappropriately in the house, sometimes dribble urine, and may void more frequently than normal. There may be an ammonialike odor about the dog’s bedding. The skin around the penis or vulva may be scalded.

There are several types of urinary incontinence.

Horomone-Responsive Incontinence

This common incontinence is seen most often in middle-aged and older spayed females, and less commonly in young females and older neutered males. It is caused by a deficiency of estrogen in females and testosterone in males. Both these hormones are important in maintaining muscle tone of the urethral sphincter.

Hormone-responsive incontinence is much like bedwetting. The dog urinates normally, but wets when relaxed or asleep.

Treatment: Hormone-responsive incontinence in spayed females is treated by giving phenylpropanolamine, a drug that increases the tone of the urethral sphincter. Diethylstilbestrol (estrogen) can be given if phenylpropanolamine is not successful. However, diethylstilbestrol is no longer the first choice for treatment because of the risk of bone marrow suppression. Phenylpropanolamine is periodically taken off the market, because it is also used in human diet supplements and can be abused. If it unavailable, your veterinarian will work with you to use the lowest dose possible of estrogen to control your dog’s incontinence.

Incontinence in neutered males responds well to giving the dog testosterone. Phenylpropanolamine has also been used successfully in males.

Submissive Urination

This is another common problem, characterized by the release of urine caused by contraction of the abdominal wall muscles along with relaxation of the muscles that support the urethra-the normal voiding process. The dog passes small amounts of urine when she is upset or in a stressful situation. It has also been called stress incontinence. This is most common in young puppies in their new homes, and many will simply outgrow it.

Treatment: Submissive urination can be treated with phenylpropanolamine and/or other drugs that increase urethral tone while behavior modification techniques are applied. Keep stress-provoking interactions low key and brief, and avoid bending over the dog or making direct eye contact with her. Do not punish the dog, as this makes the incontinence worse. Working with a dog trainer or canine behaviorist is recommended to address this behavioral issue.

Neurogenic Incontinence

Spinal cord injuries, infections, tumors, and inherited neuropathies can interfere with the nerves that control the bladder. A bladder with a compromised nerve supply lacks muscle tone and cannot contract. The bladder continues to fill until the pressure exceeds the resistance of the sphincter mechanism that closes the urethra. This results in intermittent, uncontrolled dribbling.

Neurogenic incontinence can be confirmed with a cystometrogram. This is a test that measures how forcefully the bladder contracts in response to the introduction of incremental volumes of fluid into it through a catheter. The results also suggest the site of the neurologic deficit (the spinal cord or the bladder).

Treatment: Neurogenic incontinence is treated with long-term catheterization and antibiotics to treat and suppress infection. Drugs that act on the bladder may be of help. This type of incontinence is difficult to treat. The problem may totally resolve, however, in dogs whose spinal cord injuries have been successfully treated.

Incontinence from Overdistension of the Bladder

This type of incontinence is due to a partially obstructed bladder, caused by urethral stones, tumor, or stricture. The signs and symptoms are similar to those of neurogenic incontinence, but the nerve supply to the bladder is undamaged.

Treatment: Dribbling associated with an overdistended bladder is treated by correcting the cause of the obstruction and placing an indwelling catheter until the bladder regains its muscular tone. Drug therapy is also beneficial. Since the bladder is neurologically normal, treatment may eliminate the problem entirely.

Crucial Tips When Thinking To Look At Rescue Dogs

Dogs end up in a Rescue Centre for many varied reasons, they may have simply got lost, their owners have moved – possibly abroad and cannot take them with them, owners passing away, abandoned or rescued from abuse and mistreatment.

The Rescue Centres throughout the country do an amazing job for our canine friends and having visited many, DogSense cannot praise enough the staff and many volunteers, who devote their time and efforts to improving the lives of these dogs and they do all in their power to assist each dog in being re-homed to a caring and loving human pack.

Comforting to know…

It should be remembered that irrespective of a dogs past, they do move on very quickly and do not dwell on past events, it is with this in mind that rescued dogs have moved on to work with the police, customs, search and rescue and even as guide dogs for the blind.

Rescue dogs will make every bit as good a pet as any dog from a breeder and with enough dogs in the world without homes it is a viable option to consider and one that I commend and support.
Planning Ahead Before Taking On A Rescue Dog

It is important before taking on a rescue dog that you research and give great consideration to the idea of bringing one into your home. There is nothing worse for a dog than being given a new home and the owners finding they cannot cope and return the dog to the centre… so I encourage you to think long and hard before committing to this new lifestyle.

	Can you afford to feed the dog, care for and provide the cost of veterinary care if required?
	Give consideration to the change of lifestyle, how much time will your dog be left ‘home alone’?
	What plans will you make for taking holidays abroad? Importantly, will you have time to devote to taking your dog for walks?
	The walk is an important ritual, an opportunity for you to demonstrate your leadership, for the dog to socialise as well as the necessary exercise – if your dog is not getting enough exercise, chances are neither are you!

Do not rush the process of finding a dog.
You should look for a dog that matches the energy levels of you and your family. Look for a dog that is calm and submissive, one that shows interest in you and is not looking to you as a ‘key to the door’.
Bringing Your Rescue Dog Home To Meet His Extended Family

When you bring your dog home, take it for a long walk, this will burn off excess energy, allow the dog to familiarise itself with the new territory and to enable you to bond and establish yourself as the pack leader.

TIP: After the walk, be sure to go through any door first as the leader should and invite the dog to follow.

Once Home, What Now?

Rescue Centres – Here Are Some Tips For Rescue Dogs:

	Deal with any problems at once, do not allow them to escalate because you feel sorry for this dog who may have had a previous bad time, as mentioned dogs move on – feeling sorry is a weak energy and your dog will not look to you for leadership if you are unbalanced.
	Never shout at or use any physical punishment.
	All good behaviour should be rewarded – *ignore all unwanted behaviour.
	Provide regular exercise and stimulate your dogs mind mentally.
	Allow other family members to assist in the tasks of exercise, feeding, grooming etc. Do not allow the dog to become reliant on one individual family member. The pack depends on balance and consistency.
	Ignore all attention seeking behaviour.
	Be patient, calm but assertive when dealing with behaviour problems, it may take time to modify unwanted behaviour.
	Remember you can do anything with your dog – allow him on the sofa, to sleep in your bed; however anything your dog does must be on your terms.
	Any behaviour that you do not feel comfortable in modifying, particularly issues with aggression, it is always advisable to consult a professional.

PLEASE NOTE: *ignore unwanted behaviour – this means when you or you family feel guilty when he pines or when you feel guilty just soon after you have reprimanded him. It is good for you to turn your back or walk away from this type of behaviour. His mother would do it too.

A balanced dog has a home and a pack, it is loved, well trained and socialised and it has regular walks, play and motivation. Your dog should always have a job. A balanced and happy dog does not stress if left alone for short periods, it should be easily handled and groomed.

If you have enjoyed reading so far, be sure to subscribe to my monthly newsletter and your comments are always welcome…

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