THE HEALTHY DOG

Your dog will rely on you to keep him in good health. A proper diet, regular exercise and grooming, and routine check-ups at the veterinarian will help keep your dog in top form. It’s also important for you to get to know your dog’s habits – eating, drinking, sleeping, and so forth – since sometimes a variation in those habits can be an indication that he isn’t feeling well.

The information on this page should be used as a guide for keeping your dog healthy and identifying problems. Ask your veterinarian for advice on healthcare and prevention and be sure to seek medical advice if you think your dog is ill or hurt. The AKC Pet Healthcare Plan can help with the cost of providing quality healthcare throughout your dog’s life.

Topics on this page: Signs of Good Health, Vaccinations, Spaying and Neutering, When to Call the Vet

Signs of Good Health
Skin – Healthy skin is flexible and smooth, without scabs, growths, white flakes, or red areas. It ranges in color from pale pink to brown or black depending on the breed. Spotted skin is normal, whether the dog has a spotted or solid coat. Check your dog for fleas, ticks, lice, or other external parasites. To do this, blow gently on your dog’s stomach or brush hair backward in a few places to see if any small specks scurry away or if ticks are clinging to the skin. Black "dirt" on your dog’s skin or bedding may be a sign of flea droppings.

Coat – A healthy coat, whether short or long, is glossy and pliable, without dandruff, bald spots, or excessive oiliness.

Eyes – Healthy eyes are bright and shiny. Mucus and watery tears are normal but should be minimal and clear. The pink lining of the eyelids should not be inflamed, swollen, or have a yellow discharge. Sometimes you can see your dog’s third eyelid, a light membrane, at the inside corner of an eye. It may slowly come up to cover his eye as he goes to sleep. The whites of your dog’s eyes should not be yellowish. Eyelashes should not rub the eyeball.

Ears – The skin inside your dog’s ears should be light pink and clean. There should be some yellow or brownish wax, but a large amount of wax or crust is abnormal. There should be no redness or swelling inside the ear, and your dog shouldn’t scratch his ears or shake his head frequently. Dogs with long, hairy ears, such as Cocker Spaniels, need extra attention to keep the ears dry and clean inside and out.

Nose – A dog’s nose is usually cool and moist. It can be black, pink, or self-colored (the same color as the coat), depending on the breed. Nasal discharge should be clear, never yellowish, thick, bubbly, or foul smelling. A cool, wet nose does not necessarily mean the dog is healthy, and a dry, warm nose doesn’t necessarily mean he’s sick. Taking his temperature is a better indication of illness.

Mouth, Teeth and Gums – Healthy gums are firm and pink, black, or spotted, just like the dog’s skin. Young dogs have smooth white teeth that tend to darken with age. Puppies have 23 baby teeth and adults have around 42 permanent teeth, depending on the breed. As adult teeth come in, they push baby teeth out of the mouth.

To check your dog’s mouth, talk to him gently, then put your hand over the muzzle and lift up the sides of his mouth. Check that adult teeth are coming in as they should, and not being crowded by baby teeth. Make sure the gums are healthy and the breath is not foul-smelling. Look for soft white matter or hard white, yellow, or brown matter. This is plaque or tartar and should be brushed away.

Mouth infections can lead to serious problems in the gums and other parts of the body, including the heart, so it's important to give your dog's teeth and mouth special attention.

Temperature – A dog’s normal temperature is 101 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit (38.3 to 39.2 degrees Celcius). To take your dog's temperature, you'll need a rectal thermometer. Put some petroleum jelly on the bulb of the thermometer. Ask someone to hold your dog’s head while you lift his tail and insert the thermometer about an inch or so into the rectum. Do not let go of the thermometer. Hold it in until the temperature is read (about 3 minutes for a mercury thermometer), and then remove gently.

Heartbeat and Pulse – Because dogs come in a wide range of sizes, their heartbeats vary. A normal heart beats from 50 to 130 times a minute in a resting dog. Puppies and small dogs have faster speeds, and large dogs in top condition have slower heartbeats. To check your dog’s heartbeat, place your fingers over the left side of the chest, where you can feel the strongest beat. To check the pulse, which is the same speed as the heartbeat, press gently on the inside of the top of the hind leg. There is an artery there and the skin is thin, so it's easy to feel the pulse.

Elimination – Urine is a good indicator of a dog’s health, and should be clear yellow. Most adult dogs have one or two bowel movements a day. Stools should be brown and firm. Runny, watery, or bloody stools, straining, or too much or too little urination warrant a call to the veterinarian.

Weight – A healthy dog’s weight is the result of the balance between diet and exercise. If he is getting enough nutritious food and exercise but still seems over- or underweight, he may have a health problem. Don’t let your dog get fat by giving him too many between-meal snacks; obese dogs often develop serious health problems. The best way to tell if your dog is overweight is to feel his rib-cage area. You should be able to feel the ribs below the surface of the skin without much padding.

Vaccinations
Regular vaccinations from your veterinarian can keep your dog from getting serious and sometimes fatal illnesses such as distemper, parvovirus, hepatitis, leptospirosis, coronavirus, and rabies. A vaccination is also available for kennel cough, a respiratory problem that affects young dogs or dogs exposed to many other dogs.

A puppy’s first vaccines ideally should be given at five or six weeks of age and continue over a period of several weeks, up to sixteen weeks. Afterward, yearly booster shots provide the protection your dog will need. Be sure to stick to the schedule your veterinarian gives you to insure immunity.
Spaying or Neutering Your Dog

Unless you know you are going to show your dog, it is best to have your female spayed or your male neutered. Spaying or neutering is a fail-safe method of birth control.

A spay operation removes the female dog’s ovaries and uterus. A spayed female will not come into season two or three times a year, as unspayed females do. She will not attract male dogs from miles around, she will not discharge on rugs, sofas, or bedding, and she will not be prone to diseases such as pyometra (uterine infection) and mammary cancer.

A neutered male cannot breed successfully. His desire to roam in search of females will be reduced, and he may be less aggressive in defending his territory. Also, he will be less susceptible to prostate cancer.

Apart from these benefits, spaying or neutering will not change your dog’s personality.

When to Call the Vet
You should alert your veterinarian if your dog exhibits any unusual behavior, including the following symptoms:

• Vomiting, diarrhea, or excessive urination for more than twelve hours.
• Fainting.
• Loss of balance, staggering, falling.
• Constipation or straining to urinate.
• Runny eyes or nose.
• Persistent scratching at eyes or ears.
• Thick discharge from eyes, ears, nose, or sores.
• Coughing or sneezing.
• Difficulty breathing, prolonged panting.
• Shivering.
• Whining for no apparent reason.
• Loss of appetite for 24 hours or more.
• Weight loss.
• Dramatic increase in appetite for 24 hours or more.
• Increased restlessness.
• Excessive sleeping or unusual lack of activity.
• Limping, holding, or protecting part of the body.
• Excessive drinking of water.

Havanese dogs breed

The crew at MistyTrails Havanese—Reo at 1.5 years, Conchita at 1 year, Purdy at 4 months, Lucy and Splash at 3 months, Sebastion at 3 years and Catreeya at 4 years old

Description

 If never primped, clipped or altered in any way, the Havanese gives a rugged impression in a little dog. The legs are strong and allow for free and easy movement. The dark eyes and long tail are covered with long, silky hair. The profuse coat varies from wavy to curly to corded. The corded coat is recognized by both the AKC (American Kennel Club) and the CKC (Canadian Kennel Club). The Havanese is a double-coated breed with soft hair, both on the outer coat and undercoat. The adult coat reaches 6 to 8 inches, and has a pearly sheen. Some Havanese carry a shorthaired recessive gene. If two adults with this recessive gene have a litter of puppies, it is possible that some of the puppies will be born with smooth coats. A Havanese with a short coat cannot be shown, as it is a serious fault in the show arena. Some have nicknamed the Havanese born with short coats Shavanese. Eye rims, nose and lips are solid black on all colors except the true chocolate dog. The Havanese comes in any color, including cream, gold, white, silver, blue and black. Also parti and tricolor. In North America, all colors are recognized; no preference is given to one color over another. Black and chocolate are preferred colors with many North American breeders. A chocolate Havanese must retain at least a 1 inch (2.6 cm) patch of chocolate hair. Chocolates also have green or amber eyes. In some European countries the black and chocolate dogs were not always recognized, but the black dogs have been recognized for several years, and the chocolate dogs are now recently recognized. The gait is unique, lively and ”springy," which accentuates the happy character of the Havanese. Tail is carried up over the back when gaiting. The breed is of solid physical type and sound constitution. The Havanese is sturdy, and while a small breed, it is neither fragile nor overdone.

Temperament 

Havanese are natural companion dogs, gentle and responsive. They become very attached to their human families and are excellent with children. Very affectionate and playful with a high degree of intelligence, these cheerful dogs are very sociable and will get along with everyone including people, dogs, cats and other pets. They are easy to obedience train. This curious dog loves to observe what is going on. It is sensitive to the tone of one's voice and will not listen if it senses that it is stronger minded than its owner, however it will also not respond well to harsh discipline. Owners need to be calm, yet possess an air of natural authority. The Havanese has a long reputation of being a circus dogs, probably because it learns quickly and enjoys doing things for people. Few tend to bark a lot, as they can be taught not to do this; it is not their nature to bark a lot. It is best to teach them not to bark unnecessarily while they are still young to prevent it from becoming a habit. Havanese are good watch dogs, making sure to alert you when a visitor arrives, but will quickly welcome the guest once it sees you welcome them. Some dogs that have not been properly socialized may exhibit a degree of shyness around strangers, but this is not characteristic of the breed. Havanese live for your every word and gesture. They should be neither timid nor aggressive—if they are, that is a result of a human who is not providing proper pack leadership and/or nottreating the dog like a canine, but rather a human. The Havanese shows no cowardice, in spite of its size. Do not allow the Havanese to develop Small Dog Syndrome.

Height: 8 - 11 inches (20 - 28 cm)

Weight: 7 - 13 pounds (3 - 6 kg)

Health Problems 

This is a very healthy long-lived breed, however, all long-lived breeds eventually have health problems. Some are prone to hip dysplasia, PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy), poodle eye, juvenile heritable cataracts,, Chonrdodyplasia, patellar luxation (dislocated kneecaps), Legg-Calve Perthes Disease, unilateral and bilateral deafness and dry skin.

Living Conditions Havanese are good for apartment life. They are very active indoors and will do okay without a yard. Havanese are born to live in your home, and not in a patio or a kennel, but at the same time, they require plenty of exercise.

Exercise This playful little dog has an average demand for exercise. This breed needs to be taken on a daily walk. While walking be sure to make the dog heel on the lead. It is an instinct for a dog to migrate daily and to have a leader, and in their mind the leader leads the way. This is very important to raising a well-rounded, balanced pet.

Life Expectancy About 14-15 years

Litter Size 1 - 9 puppies, average 4

Grooming 

For pets, the coat can be clipped short for easier care. If the coat is to be kept long it needs to be thoroughly brushed and combed at least twice a week. There is a lotion available to prevent the hair from splitting. Corded coats require special care. Clip excess hair from between the pads of the feet. The feet themselves may be clipped to look round. Show dogs need a great deal more grooming. There is little to no shedding, so dead hair must be removed by brushing. Check the eyes and ears regularly. If the ears are not kept clean it is prone to get an ear infection. The beauty of a well groomed Havanese is that he still looks tousled and carefree. If you accustom your dog to nail clipping from puppy age, she should accept the routine as an adult. Teeth should be brushed weekly, and this is also best started as a puppy. This breed is good for allergy sufferers. They are a non-shedding, hypo-allergenic dog. However, the Shavanese (Havanese born with a short coat) which have coats more like the average dog and are comparable in looks to a Papillon, do shed. It is believed, but not yet 100% confirmed, that unlike the longhaired Havanese, the short haired Shavanese is not hypo-allergenic and therefore not a good choice for allergy sufferers.

Origin 

Following the French, Cuban and Russian revolutions, the Havanese were almost extinct. Now rare in Cuba, the breed has been facing a crisis through the 1900s, but is presently on the rise in popularity, having some dedicated believers in the breed who are actively campaigning for its preservation in the USA. This dog belongs to the family of dogs called Bichons. The French word Bichon Frise means "fleecy dog" or "curly lap dog." "Bichon" refers to the bearded appearance of the breed, as the word "barbichon" means little beard, while the word "Frise" means curly. The Bichon Havanese originated in Cuba from an earlier breed known as Blanquito de la Habana (also called Havanese Silk Dog—a now extinct breed). The Bichon Havanese adorned and enlivened the homes of aristocratic Cubans during the 18th and 19th centuries. Bichon lapdogs were being brought to Cuba in 17th century from Europe; they adapted to climate and customs of Cuba. Eventually, these conditions gave birth to a different dog, smaller than its predecessors, with a completely white coat of a silkier texture. This dog was the Blanquito de la Habana. In the 19th century, the Cubans took to liking the French and German Poodles, which were crossed with the existing Blanquito to create today's Bichon Havanese. In the development of the Havanese, the Blanquito was much more dominant than the Poodle. The Bichon Havanese originated in the 19th century (1800-11899). It was continually bred in Cuba all through the 20th century (1900-1999) and was the preferred pet/dog of Cuban families. Breeding the Havanese in the USA only started in the 1970s. In the 1960s many Cubans migrated to USA. Most Cuban refugees settled in Florida and some brought their pets (Havanese). A U.S. breeder, Mrs. Goodale saved the breed from extinction. She advertised in a Florida paper, and found two or three immigrant families who had brought their Havanese from Cuba with papers. From them, Mrs. Goodale got 6 Bichon Havanese with pedigrees: a female with 4 female pups, and a young unrelated male. Later she was able to get 5 more males from Costa Rica. As an experienced breeder, Mrs. Goodale began working with the 11 dogs. Her first lines appeared in 1974. The UKC recognized them in 1991. The AKC recognized them in 1996. The CKC (Canadian Kennel Club) recognized them in 2001. Around 1980, several German breeders started finding odd-coated puppies in litters with regular Havanese. As these pups matured they did not grow full coats like their other littermates. They had feathering on the skirts, tail, legs, chest and ears—the rest of the body hair was close lying. They oddly enough grew up to have smooth coats. Breeders got together and found that this was happening in other litters of Havanese and was not a chance genetic mutation in one single litter, but something carried in a lot of Havanese as a recessive gene. These dogs were called smooth-coated Havanese, but have picked up the name Shavanese somewhere along the line. The short-coated Havanese are not showable or breedable, however they are perfectly healthy.

Common Causes of Incontinence in Dogs

Incontinence can be incredibly frustrating for both dog and owner alike. Owners may mistakenly believe their dog is simply ignoring house rules or has forgotten his or her housetraining. And dogs may have to cope with waking up covered in urine to face an angry owner. Dog incontinence is not a voluntary problem; your dog has not suddenly regressed. Instead, this is a serious medical problem that requires a consultation with a qualified veterinarian. Here are the most common causes of canine incontinence:

Senility and Cognitive Dysfunction

Just like people, dogs' brain functioning can deteriorate with age. With this deterioration can come a loss of housetraining and bladder control skills. If your dog is suddenly having difficulty following house rules or has forgotten basic commands he's always known, he may be suffering from senility. While in most cases senility must be managed instead of cured, some dog trainers have had success re-teaching senile dogs skills they once knew well. Talk to your vet about medical and training options for your dog.

Bladder Infections

Bladder infections are especially common in unspayed female dogs, but any dog can get one. These infections cause an overwhelming and uncontrollable urge to urinate and are especially likely to lead to a dog peeing in her sleep. If your dog is suddenly struggling with incontinence, it may be a bladder infection.

Spay Incontinence

In some cases, spaying a female dog can cause minor damage to her urethra, leading to a condition called spay incontinence. This condition may occur right after spaying or years later, but is normally very treatable. 

Breed

Some breeds of dog are more susceptible to incontinence throughout the course of their lives, but particularly as they age. The precise reason for this is unknown but could range from minor anatomical differences to minor differences in brain wiring. Labs, Collies, and Miniature Poodles are especially susceptible to incontinence.

Cancer

Bladder or Ureter cancer can cause a blockage that leads to incontinence. If your dog's incontinence has gotten slowly worse over the course of several months or weeks, this may indicate a more severe problem and you should encourage your vet to check your dog for potential tumors and other blockages.

Injury

A dog with an injury, hip dysplasia, or other muscle or bone pain may temporarily appear to be incontinent because it is too difficult or painful to get around. If your dog has recently fallen and is no longer behaving like she is housetrained, she may have a serious injury that is limiting her mobility.

Anxiety and Stress

Just like people, dogs' medical conditions can be exacerbated by stress and anxiety. Moving, a new dog, or a new person living in the house can all make dogs anxious. A dog who has a predisposition toward incontinence may become incontinent if he or she is stressed. If your vet can find nothing physically wrong with your dog, it's important to take a look at anything that may have changed in the environment and made her feel fearful.

Whatever the circumstances surrounding your dog's incontinence, it is important that your dog see a vet right away. Incontinence is unlikely to go away on its own, but the earlier the condition is caught, the more effective treatment will be.

About Urinary Incontinence in Dogs

Urinary incontinence is the involuntary passing of urine. Pets can be incontinent for many different reasons. Those reasons can involve the bladder, the urethra which is the tube from the bladder to the outside, or incontinence can be caused by abnormalities in the parts of the brain and spinal cord that control bladder function. Incontinence can be confused with diseases that cause a pet to urinate frequently. A physical exam and laboratory tests will help in the proper diagnosis.

More than 20% of spayed females are affected with urinary incontinence. Both male and female dogs can be affected, with medium to large breeds being more prone for the problem. The number of cases is likely to increase with the growing number of older dogs, advances in geriatric veterinary care and significant amount of time pets spend indoors. Urethral Sphincter Mechanism Incompetence is the most commonly diagnosed cause of urinary incontinence: 81% of incontinent adult females and 57% of all dogs with involuntary urine loss. Phenylpropanolamine (PPA) is the most frequently dispensed medication for this type of incontinence.

Incontinence can be confused with submissive urination. Submissive urination occurs when a dog is acting submissive to a person or to another dog. Submissive urination occurs more frequently in young animals. The dog usually rolls on its back and urinates. These dogs can also urinate normally.

Young animals may have a birth defect causing incontinence. The most common birth defect that causes incontinence in young dogs is ectopic ureter(s). The ureters carry urine from the kidneys to the bladder. If one or both ureters by-pass the bladder and connect to an abnormal location such as the urethra or vagina, the puppy may drip urine. Siberian Huskies are most often affected. Other breeds that have a higher occurrence of this birth defect include:

• Miniature Poodle
• Labrador Retriever
• Collie
• Welsh Corgi
• Wire-haired Fox Terrier
• West Highland White Terrier

Female dogs are more commonly affected. If only one ureter is abnormal the dog will dribble urine but can also urinate normally. If both ureters are affected then the puppy will only dribble urine and cannot pass urine normally. To diagnose this condition a dye study of the bladder is usually performed. Sometimes the abnormal opening into the vagina can be seen during a careful examination under anesthesia using special equipment. Most puppies with ectopic ureter(s) also have a bladder infection that will improve with antibiotics but the infection will return until the problem is corrected. In some cases the ureter can be surgically moved back to the normal location in the bladder and incontinence may resolve. In other cases, long standing infection of the kidney may have damaged the kidney requiring the removal of one kidney. In yet other cases the abnormality of the ureter can be corrected but the pet remains incontinent, probably due to the presence of other birth defects in the urinary system.

A bladder infection can cause either a strong urge to urinate or if the bladder infection is long standing it can cause scarring of the bladder preventing it from stretching to hold urine. In this case the pet is usually not truly incontinent in that they know they are urinating, but they have such a strong urge to empty their bladder that they may urinate in abnormal locations or urinate very frequently. It is common to evaluate incontinent pets for the presence of a bladder infection. 

Pets with a partial blockage of the urethra with a stone or a tumor may show incontinence. If they cannot empty their bladder completely because something is blocking the path to the outside, the bladder may get so large that the back pressure of urine in the bladder actually forces some urine to leak around the blockage. In these pets the enlarged bladder can be felt on examination. Total blockage of urine flow is usually fatal in 3 to 4 days.

Hormone-responsive incontinence occurs in neutered dogs of both sexes and occasionally in spayed female cats but occurs most commonly in female dogs. The pet can urinate normally, but they leak urine while resting. Physical examination and blood and urine tests are usually normal in these pets. Hormone-responsive incontinence can occur months to years after a pet is neutered. As pets age they may become incontinent. This may be due to a weakening of the muscles that hold urine in the bladder. There are many diseases that can cause a pet to create more urine than normal (polyuria) and several of these occur in older pets. If a pet has one of these diseases and often has a full bladder, the full bladder can push against the weakened sphincter and cause incontinence. Older pets can also develop senility and simply be unaware that they are dribbling urine.

Dogs with brain or spinal cord disease may either dribble urine or be unable to pass urine. Most often they will have other signs of nervous system disease such as muscle weakness or paralysis.

A less common cause of incontinence in female dogs is called vulvovaginal stenosis. It is a condition in which the vagina at the level where the urethra ends is narrowed. Occasionally when the pet urinates, some urine will get trapped in the vagina in front of this narrowed area. Then when they rise after lying down the urine pours out. This condition can be diagnosed by feeling the vagina with a gloved finger. In some dogs the narrowing can be stretched under anesthesia. The incontinence may or may not resolve as sometimes other defects are also present. 

Diagnosis of incontinence

The tests performed to evaluate a pet with incontinence depend upon the age of the pet and on the presence or absence of other signs. It is common to collect a urine sample for bacterial culture and to see if the urine is dilute or shows evidence of an infection. Infections of the urine may be secondary to another cause of incontinence.

Questions that your veterinarian will ask to help identify the cause of your pets problem include:

• The age when incontinence first appeared 
• When the incontinence is usually observed, for example at rest or with activity
• Whether the pet can urinate normally 
• Previous surgeries (such as neutering) and illness 
• Use of medications that might cause the urine to be dilute such as diuretics, anticonvulsants or prednisone 
• How much water the pet drinks
• How frequently the pet urinates and whether the pet seems to be uncomfortable when he or she urinates
• Whether the pet shows any signs of nervous system disease such as weakness or seizures

Blood tests may be performed to look for evidence of kidney damage from infection or for the presence of diseases that might lead to increased urine production. 

Plain and/or dye X-rays or ultrasound may be performed to look at the parts of the urinary tract. 

Treating the Incontinent Patient

Specific treatment of an underlying disease may resolve incontinence; for example, surgery to correct an ectopic ureter. Inappropriate urination caused by behavioral problems may be corrected with training that modifies the pets behavior.

When no specific cause can be identified for the incontinence drugs may be given that increase the tone of the muscles that hold urine in the bladder. Some drugs that are used for this purpose include estrogen, ephedrine and phenylpropanolamine. Phenylpropanolamine is a sympathomimetic, non-hormonal agent which increases sphincter tone and alleviates urinary incontinence by stimulation of the alpha adrenergic receptors in the urethral muscle.

Drug therapy for incontinence may be based on trial of different drugs in various doses. Since some of these drugs can have side effects so low doses are tried first. Some drugs may be slow to have an effect so as long as there are no undesirable side effects, a drug trial should continue for several weeks before the drug is considered not to be effective.

Urinary Incontinence and Bladder Problems in Dogs

Incontinence is loss of voluntary control over the act of voiding. This medical condition must to be differentiated from a housetraining problem and/or submissive urination, especially in young dogs. Incontinent dogs wet their bed or the floor where they are sleeping, urinate inappropriately in the house, sometimes dribble urine, and may void more frequently than normal. There may be an ammonialike odor about the dog’s bedding. The skin around the penis or vulva may be scalded.

There are several types of urinary incontinence.

Horomone-Responsive Incontinence

This common incontinence is seen most often in middle-aged and older spayed females, and less commonly in young females and older neutered males. It is caused by a deficiency of estrogen in females and testosterone in males. Both these hormones are important in maintaining muscle tone of the urethral sphincter.

Hormone-responsive incontinence is much like bedwetting. The dog urinates normally, but wets when relaxed or asleep.

Treatment: Hormone-responsive incontinence in spayed females is treated by giving phenylpropanolamine, a drug that increases the tone of the urethral sphincter. Diethylstilbestrol (estrogen) can be given if phenylpropanolamine is not successful. However, diethylstilbestrol is no longer the first choice for treatment because of the risk of bone marrow suppression. Phenylpropanolamine is periodically taken off the market, because it is also used in human diet supplements and can be abused. If it unavailable, your veterinarian will work with you to use the lowest dose possible of estrogen to control your dog’s incontinence.

Incontinence in neutered males responds well to giving the dog testosterone. Phenylpropanolamine has also been used successfully in males.

Submissive Urination

This is another common problem, characterized by the release of urine caused by contraction of the abdominal wall muscles along with relaxation of the muscles that support the urethra-the normal voiding process. The dog passes small amounts of urine when she is upset or in a stressful situation. It has also been called stress incontinence. This is most common in young puppies in their new homes, and many will simply outgrow it.

Treatment: Submissive urination can be treated with phenylpropanolamine and/or other drugs that increase urethral tone while behavior modification techniques are applied. Keep stress-provoking interactions low key and brief, and avoid bending over the dog or making direct eye contact with her. Do not punish the dog, as this makes the incontinence worse. Working with a dog trainer or canine behaviorist is recommended to address this behavioral issue.

Neurogenic Incontinence

Spinal cord injuries, infections, tumors, and inherited neuropathies can interfere with the nerves that control the bladder. A bladder with a compromised nerve supply lacks muscle tone and cannot contract. The bladder continues to fill until the pressure exceeds the resistance of the sphincter mechanism that closes the urethra. This results in intermittent, uncontrolled dribbling.

Neurogenic incontinence can be confirmed with a cystometrogram. This is a test that measures how forcefully the bladder contracts in response to the introduction of incremental volumes of fluid into it through a catheter. The results also suggest the site of the neurologic deficit (the spinal cord or the bladder).

Treatment: Neurogenic incontinence is treated with long-term catheterization and antibiotics to treat and suppress infection. Drugs that act on the bladder may be of help. This type of incontinence is difficult to treat. The problem may totally resolve, however, in dogs whose spinal cord injuries have been successfully treated.

Incontinence from Overdistension of the Bladder

This type of incontinence is due to a partially obstructed bladder, caused by urethral stones, tumor, or stricture. The signs and symptoms are similar to those of neurogenic incontinence, but the nerve supply to the bladder is undamaged.

Treatment: Dribbling associated with an overdistended bladder is treated by correcting the cause of the obstruction and placing an indwelling catheter until the bladder regains its muscular tone. Drug therapy is also beneficial. Since the bladder is neurologically normal, treatment may eliminate the problem entirely.

Crucial Tips When Thinking To Look At Rescue Dogs

Dogs end up in a Rescue Centre for many varied reasons, they may have simply got lost, their owners have moved – possibly abroad and cannot take them with them, owners passing away, abandoned or rescued from abuse and mistreatment.

The Rescue Centres throughout the country do an amazing job for our canine friends and having visited many, DogSense cannot praise enough the staff and many volunteers, who devote their time and efforts to improving the lives of these dogs and they do all in their power to assist each dog in being re-homed to a caring and loving human pack.

Comforting to know…

It should be remembered that irrespective of a dogs past, they do move on very quickly and do not dwell on past events, it is with this in mind that rescued dogs have moved on to work with the police, customs, search and rescue and even as guide dogs for the blind.

Rescue dogs will make every bit as good a pet as any dog from a breeder and with enough dogs in the world without homes it is a viable option to consider and one that I commend and support.
Planning Ahead Before Taking On A Rescue Dog

It is important before taking on a rescue dog that you research and give great consideration to the idea of bringing one into your home. There is nothing worse for a dog than being given a new home and the owners finding they cannot cope and return the dog to the centre… so I encourage you to think long and hard before committing to this new lifestyle.

	Can you afford to feed the dog, care for and provide the cost of veterinary care if required?
	Give consideration to the change of lifestyle, how much time will your dog be left ‘home alone’?
	What plans will you make for taking holidays abroad? Importantly, will you have time to devote to taking your dog for walks?
	The walk is an important ritual, an opportunity for you to demonstrate your leadership, for the dog to socialise as well as the necessary exercise – if your dog is not getting enough exercise, chances are neither are you!

Do not rush the process of finding a dog.
You should look for a dog that matches the energy levels of you and your family. Look for a dog that is calm and submissive, one that shows interest in you and is not looking to you as a ‘key to the door’.
Bringing Your Rescue Dog Home To Meet His Extended Family

When you bring your dog home, take it for a long walk, this will burn off excess energy, allow the dog to familiarise itself with the new territory and to enable you to bond and establish yourself as the pack leader.

TIP: After the walk, be sure to go through any door first as the leader should and invite the dog to follow.

Once Home, What Now?

Rescue Centres – Here Are Some Tips For Rescue Dogs:

	Deal with any problems at once, do not allow them to escalate because you feel sorry for this dog who may have had a previous bad time, as mentioned dogs move on – feeling sorry is a weak energy and your dog will not look to you for leadership if you are unbalanced.
	Never shout at or use any physical punishment.
	All good behaviour should be rewarded – *ignore all unwanted behaviour.
	Provide regular exercise and stimulate your dogs mind mentally.
	Allow other family members to assist in the tasks of exercise, feeding, grooming etc. Do not allow the dog to become reliant on one individual family member. The pack depends on balance and consistency.
	Ignore all attention seeking behaviour.
	Be patient, calm but assertive when dealing with behaviour problems, it may take time to modify unwanted behaviour.
	Remember you can do anything with your dog – allow him on the sofa, to sleep in your bed; however anything your dog does must be on your terms.
	Any behaviour that you do not feel comfortable in modifying, particularly issues with aggression, it is always advisable to consult a professional.

PLEASE NOTE: *ignore unwanted behaviour – this means when you or you family feel guilty when he pines or when you feel guilty just soon after you have reprimanded him. It is good for you to turn your back or walk away from this type of behaviour. His mother would do it too.

A balanced dog has a home and a pack, it is loved, well trained and socialised and it has regular walks, play and motivation. Your dog should always have a job. A balanced and happy dog does not stress if left alone for short periods, it should be easily handled and groomed.

If you have enjoyed reading so far, be sure to subscribe to my monthly newsletter and your comments are always welcome…

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THE ART OF ADOPTING A SHELTER OR RESCUE DOG & MAKING IT WORK

Dogs of all breeds, mixes, sizes and types are always available for adoption from shelters or rescues. The selection changes daily, unfortunately. The decision to adopt a "recycled" dog can be a positive one if careful choices are made and a commitment is made to train and socialize the new family member.

DECISIONS, DECISIONS
In order to make your shelter adoption a more informed and less of an emotional decision, certain requirements need to be listed before the trip to the shelter:


SIZE:

Large, medium, or small dog? Keep in mind size does not necessarily designate space required or energy level.

COAT:

Long, short, one that will require grooming/shaving? Keep in mind short-coated dogs such as Labs and Dalmatians shed JUST AS MUCH if not more than longer coated dogs such as Golden Retrievers or Shelties.

BREED:

Purebred? Mix? If a purebred is desired, make sure ALL breed traits are researched - EACH breed has good and bad traits, and those are variable depending on the person!

ACTIVITY LEVEL:

Usually if the breed or mix is known, the level of activity will be able to be ascertained, as well.

AGE:

Puppy or adult or senior? Most dogs find their way to shelters between the ages of 6 months and 1 year of age, because that is the worst behaved time of a dog's life - their adolescence; they WILL misbehave more during that time period. Adult dogs can also come to you with excess baggage of behavior problems from their previous life, but usually they can be worked through. Seniors can sometimes have age-related health or behavior problems, but can be a wonderful laid-back companion.

AT THE SHELTER

When looking for a dog, remember that WYSIWYG!! A shy, cowering dog will take just as much work as an overpowering, in-your-face dog. Dogs in rows of cages or kennel runs may still act like a pack; each one of them may be at their gate barking and clawing! Take each dog you are interested in off to a quieter area away from the masses to evaluate him behaviorally. Ask the shelter worker about the dog. Look into his eyes - I really believe in honest eyes; they can reveal a lot about the dog. A dog that is interested in play, especially fetching, is a very good candidate; you have the start of a good, positive bridge of understanding. Look for a dog that will come up to you - one that is interested in interacting with you. An aloof dog will most likely remain aloof. All family members should meet the adoptive prospect - even down to the smallest child. If the dog shows any fear or aggression to anyone, the adoption should NOT take place!

ONCE YOU BRING YOUR NEW DOG HOME

Establish an area for the new dog that will keep him AND your house safe. The safest way to do this is with a crate (cage). Most shelter dogs spent their time in a cage or a run, so the transition to a crate at your home should run smoothly. A confined area such as a crate will greatly assist with potty training [see article] and give the dog a safe, comfortable place. Time in your house outside the crate should ALWAYS be supervised for several weeks to several months, depending on the dog. The only factor regarding supervision or lack of is your observation of the dog's behavior; age, breed and size are not. Feeding times should be in the crate at first, as well as daily times in the crate even while you are around. Dogs quickly learn when they are crated only when nobody is at home, and some can develop separation anxiety. No matter how old the new dog is when you adopt him, he should ALWAYS be treated like a puppy and not trusted with ANYTHING until he earns it. You have worked too hard for your house and the stuff in it to have it destroyed by a rescue dog!

No matter how old the dog is, potty training should ALWAYS follow the same pattern: outside ON LEASH, with voice command to eliminate, praise during elimination and freedom in the house ONLY after elimination outside. The length of time you will need to do this will depend on the dog - it will vary from days to months

One of the most important things to do with your new dog is to enroll in an obedience class. This class is important for many reasons: · establishes a working relationship and bond between owner and dog · socializes dog to other people and other dogs · helps to reinforce basic training, even if the dog seems to know the basics · helps to teach the dog that he must comply even if many distractions are present

DO NOT make excuses for your new dog! You may observe he is shy around men or strangers; many people think the dog was abused before they got him. He may have had a scary experience, but generally, if you don't know for a fact he was, he was probably just under socialized. To sit on the excuse, "Oh, be careful with him, he was abused as a puppy," is an immobilizing thought. Instead of carefully avoiding things that frighten your dog, give that man/stranger an irresistible treat to give to your dog every time they meet; you may be able to work through the problem! What may have happened in your rescue dog's past doesn't need to cripple him for life!

Unless you worked closely with a shelter veterinarian before the adoption, the first trip after acquiring your new dog should be to a veterinarian. The dog should be evaluated health-wise before he establishes himself in your home and in your heart. The veterinarian will check a stool sample (you need to take a fresh teaspoonful with you) for intestinal parasites, do a general exam, and check him for heartworm (if he is old enough). The veterinarian will also evaluate his vaccination history (which you also need to take to the appointment) and give him any vaccinations he is lacking.

INTRODUCING YOUR NEW DOG TO OTHER PETS

If you have other pets, part of your pre-adoption evaluation should be to observe how your dog-of-choice interacts with other animals. Ask shelter workers what this dog is like, but also see for yourself. Introduce another shelter resident the dog is not familiar with - with the help of a shelter worker, of course! If you have cat(s), ask a shelter worker to bring out a cat who tolerates dogs. Some shelters will allow you to bring your pets for an introduction, others may require it.

If the potential adoptee has a problem with the type of pet(s) you already have a home, that dog should NOT go home with you, UNLESS you are willing to spend A LOT of time with introductions and supervision, as well as A LOT of training and socialization time. You must also realize that a dog- or cat-aggressive dog MAY NOT ever change!

Once you have established that your adoptee seems to tolerate other animals, you will still have to invest time in introduction and supervision of the new dog and existing pets at home. Introductions should happen in controlled settings. The new dog should be ON LEASH, and your existing pets should also be controlled in some way: cat in carrier (you could be bitten or scratched if you hold the cat for the new dog to meet!), other dog(s) on leash - one at a time. Some raised hackles are normal even in friendly introductions. Keep leashes fairly loose or leave dragging on the ground, but always be ready to pull each dog away from the other should an argument ensue. If a fight starts, NEVER put your hands anywhere near to grab dogs! Instead, throw a blanket over them or use a chair to separate them by wedging in between. These introductions work best when a person handles each animal.

The new dog should NOT be alone in the house with your existing pets until you have carefully monitored and controlled their interactions for a period of time. That time period could be anywhere from a couple days to a month or more. The new dog should be crated when you are not able to supervise. The crate can still be in an area where your existing pets can approach to sniff; however, this also needs to be supervised. Your pets could tease the new one, or the new one could be somewhat cage aggressive/protective and lunge and growl.

With careful planning, preparation and training, adopting a shelter or rescue dog can be one that will work for life.

QUICK CHECKLIST FOR ADOPTIONS

• DON'T USE YOUR HEART in decisions! Think your choices CAREFULLY through. 
• Make sure the new adoptee will work in your home - with other pets, men, women, children, WHATEVER and WHOEVER he will encounter in his new life with you. 
• CAREFULLY research: breed choices, size, coat, etc. 
• CAREFULLY consider WHY you want a dog, and WHY you want a shelter/rescue dog. After all, the idea is to have adoptions WORK! · Consider WHAT you want to do with this dog: vegetate on the couch, long walks, competition flyball or Frisbee, obedience or agility competition? Use this to help in your decisions. 
• Do you want all that comes with a puppy? Or would you rather start with a dog that is a little more mature? 
• Do NOT adopt with the idea that you will change a dog! You will be able to work with what you have, but generally a dog is the way he'll be, UNLESS you plan to invest a lot of time and money in training, with no guarantees. 
• Do NOT hesitate to engage the help of an experienced behaviorist or trainer to help ease the adoptee's transition into your home and your life. 

Rehoming Your Dog

Whether you are forced to give away a beloved companion due to moving, or you have come to the conclusion that you are ill-equipped to care for a special-needs dog, you can take responsibility to improve its life by finding it an appropriate new home.
Checklist of Homing Needs

Once you have determined that it’s impossible to keep or bring your dog with you, the top priority is to assess your dog’s needs. You may want to write an all-inclusive list of requirements for your dog’s ideal new home without “editing” yourself while you brainstorm. Once you have written all the items you can think of, go through and determine what is non-negotiable for your dog’s unique needs, and write an ad using those top “must-haves”.

Getting Your Dog Ready

Keep in mind that it’s not only what your dog needs, but what prospective adopters will be looking for, so highlight your dog’s best traits in the ad as well. Therefore, make sure that your dog is transition-ready with veterinary care, is spayed or neutered, and freshly groomed.
Advertising

Pre-existing, trusted connections like your friends, neighbors, local veterinarians, and social communities are a good foundation to begin your search. Once you’ve put the word out in these venues, you can also advertise in less familiar places by putting up flyers in local businesses and ads in small and large local publications. Online you can find pet home-matching sites like http://alldog360.blogspot.com/

Interviewing Prospects

You may ask your local pet rescue for the questions they use to screen prospective adopters. By interviewing prospects over the phone first, you can eliminate poor matches.

Once you determine that a prospect is worth meeting, it’s safest and easiest for both parties to find a neutral location to introduce your dog, like a park or pet-friendly coffee shop or café with outdoor seating. If the prospect has children, it is best that they come so you can observe how they get along. If there’s potential, consider conducting a second interview in the prospective adopter’s home so you can see how your dog responds to the environment.

Always listen to your own instincts and don’t fall into the trap of being desperate to rush giving away your dog. Never give your dog away “free to the right person.” Your dog is valuable, so find a reasonable price and stick to your guns.

Transitioning Pet and People

Once you’ve chosen a new caregiver, if your dog has a shyer temperament, you may want them to get as acquainted with the new people as much as possible before saying the final good-bye by having the prospective adopter visit the dog at your home. However, don’t make repeat visits to the adopter’s home — when you leave for good, it could actually be more traumatic for your dog. Usually, you’ll minimize your own grief and your dog’s by making the transition as quickly as possible.
Giving Your Dog Away Due to Behavior Issues

Remember that by adopting a dog to begin with, the dog became your responsibility. Whether you are still in the process of trying to balance and discipline your pet, or you have already come to the conclusion that it’s best to send your dog to a new home, you’ll find some excellent guidance on our Rescue and Resources page
.

HOW TO BUY A DOG

 I have organized the following into specific categories for easier reading. However, the order in which this is presented does not necessarily mean that this is the order in which these questions should be asked nor does it signify the importance of one question over another. This is not meant to be a complete list of questions or considerations, just a starting point to get you thinking before making this long term commitment.
I.   Ask yourself "Why do you want a dog?"
     A.   Pet/companion
     B.   Showing 
     C.   Breeding
     D.   All of the above
II.  Learn how to choose the right breed for you
     A.   Read about the breeds that interest you
     B.   Attend a few dog shows and observe the characteristics
          of the breed you have chosen
     C.   Find out what type of grooming or special care this
          breed requires
     D.   Talk to and visit several breeders
          1.   Ask about specific characteristics
          2.   Ask about inherited problems
          3.   Look at adults
          4.   Look at puppies
          5.   Remember: This puppy will be an adult longer than
               it will be a puppy--do you like the adults of this
               breed??
     E.   Always look at more than one litter before deciding on
          a specific puppy (by this I mean visit more than one
          breeder to view two separate litters) this way you have
          some basis for comparison.
     F.   Have you considered rescuing an older dog rather than 
          purchasing a puppy?  Sometimes, an older dog is more 
          appropriate for your household and you work schedule.
III. Questions to ask the breeder

     A.   About the parents & grandparents
          1.   Temperament of the ancestors
               a.   shyness
               b.   viciousness
               c.   hyperactive
               d.   what are they like??
               e.   how are they to live with on a daily basis?
          2.   Known hereditary problems (ask for certification
               that the parents are clear)
               a.   Hip displaysia
               b.   Eye problems
               c.   Thyroid problems
               d.   Bleeding disorders
               e.   others specific to your breed of choice
          3.   Results of prior breedings (if any)
               a.   What type of puppies (mentally and physically)
                    has this dog produced in the past?
               b.   Mental and physical soundness of aunts,
                    uncles, etc.
     B.   About the puppies
          1.   Health record
               a.   What shots have they had
               b.   What shots do they still need
               c.   Have they been wormed
               d.   What type of food are they eating
          2.   Environment they were raised in (home vs. kennel)
          3.   Describe an average day in the puppy's life at age
               6 or 7 weeks. 
          4.   Anticipated temperament of each puppy in this
               litter (it is important to know as much as
               possible about the siblings of your puppy)
          5.   If you are buying a show or breeding quality
               puppy, it is even more important to find out about
               the siblings.
          6.   If you are buying a show or breeding quality be
               certain that the littermates are free of
               hereditary defects (this includes all males having
               both testicles--even if you are buying a bitch
               puppy).
          7.   Which puppy is breeding quality, show quality or
               pet quality (you don't want to get your heart set
               on one puppy then be told that that is a show
               puppy and is not for sale)
          8.   What type of health guarantee does the breeder
               give for a show puppy? a pet puppy?
          9.   Will the breeder take the dog back or assist you
               in placing the dog should you ever decide that you
               cannot keep it?
IV.  Questions the breeder should ask you 

     A.   Why do you want this dog?
     B.   Have you researched this breed and what do you know
          about its character traits?
     C.   Do you have other pets?
     D.   Have you ever owned a dog? One of this breed?
     E.   Were will the dog be kept?  Indoors or outdoors most of
          the time?
     F.   What hours do you work?  Your spouse?
     G.   Do you have children?  What ages?
     H.   Describe a typical week at your house now.
     I.   Describe a typical weekend day at your house now.
     J.   Project a typical week at your house after you get the
          puppy.
     K.   Project a typical weekend at your house after you get
          the puppy.
     L.   Project a typical day once he is an adult.
     M.   Where will the dog go when you go on vacation
     N.   What would you do if you could no longer keep this dog
     O.   To sign a contract stating specific terms and
          agreements of the sale of this puppy.
     P.   Will this dog be spayed or neutered?
     Q.   If you intent to breed this dog, why?
          1.   To show the children the facts of life
          2.   To recuperate the money you are spending to buy a
               purebred dog
          3.   To attempt to produce puppies better than their
               parents
          Note: Answers 1 and 2 are not acceptable reasons for
          breeding.
V.   If you do breed this dog, outline the process you will follow--from choosing the stud to whelping the litter.

     A.   Check for hereditary defects
     B.   Attend shows and ask breeders' recommendations for stud
          choice.
     C.   Shots current before breeding
     D.   Prenatal care, diet of mother, vet care while in whelp,
          etc.
     E.   The whelping
          1.   Where will the litter be whelped (may depend on
               the time of year), indoors? outdoors? the garage?
          2.   Where will you be during this time?
          3.   Alert your vet when she goes into labor (have more
               than one vet available if possible)
     F.   Where will the pups be kept (and until what age)
     G.   What care will the pups receive prior to being sold (at
          what age will they be sent to their new homes)
          1.   Shots
          2.   Worming
          3.   What will they eat (and at what ages)
     H.   How will you sell the puppies
     I.   How will you screen the potential buyers
     J.   What type of follow up will you do once the pups have
          been sold
     K.   Will you offer any guarantees
     L.   How will you arrive at a sales price for the pups
     M.   Will you provide a home for the pups for their ENTIRE
          lifetime (yes, even if they are sold and then returned
          to you for some reason)
VI.  How to evaluate the breeder (not the dogs)

     A.   If the breeder does not ask you most of the above
          questions, maybe you should choose another breeder.
     B.   Do they seem truly interested in your home environment?
     C.   Have they evaluated the litter into show, pet, or
          breeding stock?
     D.   Have they priced the litter based upon their expenses
          for the litter or upon their honest evaluation of the
          quality of the puppies?
     E.   Are the puppies in a healthy environment?
     F.   How are the adults kept?  Do they receive adequate
          attention, socialization, nutrition?
     G.   Speak to several breeders, if most breeders are telling
          you one thing and one does not, either he is ignorant
          of the fact or he does not care.  Neither situation is
          good.  If they cannot give you a satisfactory answer
          when you directly ask them about this point, choose
          another breeder to buy your puppy from.
     H.   Do you get the feeling that once you walk out the door
          with the puppy, you are on your own?  or do you feel
          that you could call this breeder for help at any time
          in the puppy's life?
VII. How to choose your puppy once you have chosen the breeder

     you wish to work with.
     A.   Male vs. Female
     B.   What type of adult do you want
          1.   Active vs docile
          2.   Show vs. pet
          3.   Will the dog live primarily indoors or outdoors
     C.   Ask the breeder to project a what puppy's temperament
          will be like as an adult 
     D.   Evaluate temperament first as the dog will be your pet
          first and foremost.  He cannot be anything else unless
          he is a good pet.  If you cannot enjoy living with the
          dog, why have it?  We choose to have a dog--it should
          be a pleasure not a burden.
     E.   Coat color, markings and eye color should be the last
          consideration after you have decided on the type of
          temperament you can live with and which sex you prefer. 
          If you are adamant about specific color or markings,
          wait until they are on the puppy with the appropriate
          temperament for you.
     F.   If you are buying a show puppy, attend enough shows,
          read enough books to have a basic idea of what you want
          in a show dog then ask the breeder to help project what
          each puppy may turn out like as an adult.  REMEMBER: 
          No one knows for sure, it is just an educated guess at
          best!
     G.   If you have questions or concerns about your puppy
          (behavior, physical development, etc.) at any time
          after your purchase--call the breeder immediately. 
          Don't be afraid to ask for help!  It could save you a
          lot of heartache in the long run.
     H.   Remember, by purchasing this puppy, you are committing
          to its care for the rest of its life.  But, in the
          event that you cannot keep it as you had planned, call
          the breeder immediately.  A good breeder always wants
          to know where their pups are.  They will also help you
          place the dog or approve a new home if you have lined
          up.
     I.   It is very important that you maintain contact with the
          breeder of your puppy.  If you do not feel comfortable
          doing that, perhaps you chose the wrong breeder to
          purchase a puppy from.  You buy the breeder as well as
          the puppy so try to be sure you get a good one of each!!!

my vet just gave my dog 5 times the usual dosage of steriods for an ear infection.Is he under any kind of danger ?

my vet just gave my dog 5 times the usual dosage of steriods for an ear infection.Is he under any kind of danger ?

I assume they were the most common type used.


Is it Prednizone? If your unsure on the dose, you can call another vet for a second opinion. Which is what I would do. The dose might depend on the weight of the dog. One time I called a pharmacist for drug interactions for my dog because I was unsure on what my vet prescribed. They were very helpful. Maybe you could also try that. Most times, vets, Dr's and pharmacists want to help. Also, I don't know what kind