Common Causes of Incontinence in Dogs

Incontinence can be incredibly frustrating for both dog and owner alike. Owners may mistakenly believe their dog is simply ignoring house rules or has forgotten his or her housetraining. And dogs may have to cope with waking up covered in urine to face an angry owner. Dog incontinence is not a voluntary problem; your dog has not suddenly regressed. Instead, this is a serious medical problem that requires a consultation with a qualified veterinarian. Here are the most common causes of canine incontinence:

Senility and Cognitive Dysfunction

Just like people, dogs' brain functioning can deteriorate with age. With this deterioration can come a loss of housetraining and bladder control skills. If your dog is suddenly having difficulty following house rules or has forgotten basic commands he's always known, he may be suffering from senility. While in most cases senility must be managed instead of cured, some dog trainers have had success re-teaching senile dogs skills they once knew well. Talk to your vet about medical and training options for your dog.

Bladder Infections

Bladder infections are especially common in unspayed female dogs, but any dog can get one. These infections cause an overwhelming and uncontrollable urge to urinate and are especially likely to lead to a dog peeing in her sleep. If your dog is suddenly struggling with incontinence, it may be a bladder infection.

Spay Incontinence

In some cases, spaying a female dog can cause minor damage to her urethra, leading to a condition called spay incontinence. This condition may occur right after spaying or years later, but is normally very treatable. 

Breed

Some breeds of dog are more susceptible to incontinence throughout the course of their lives, but particularly as they age. The precise reason for this is unknown but could range from minor anatomical differences to minor differences in brain wiring. Labs, Collies, and Miniature Poodles are especially susceptible to incontinence.

Cancer

Bladder or Ureter cancer can cause a blockage that leads to incontinence. If your dog's incontinence has gotten slowly worse over the course of several months or weeks, this may indicate a more severe problem and you should encourage your vet to check your dog for potential tumors and other blockages.

Injury

A dog with an injury, hip dysplasia, or other muscle or bone pain may temporarily appear to be incontinent because it is too difficult or painful to get around. If your dog has recently fallen and is no longer behaving like she is housetrained, she may have a serious injury that is limiting her mobility.

Anxiety and Stress

Just like people, dogs' medical conditions can be exacerbated by stress and anxiety. Moving, a new dog, or a new person living in the house can all make dogs anxious. A dog who has a predisposition toward incontinence may become incontinent if he or she is stressed. If your vet can find nothing physically wrong with your dog, it's important to take a look at anything that may have changed in the environment and made her feel fearful.

Whatever the circumstances surrounding your dog's incontinence, it is important that your dog see a vet right away. Incontinence is unlikely to go away on its own, but the earlier the condition is caught, the more effective treatment will be.

About Urinary Incontinence in Dogs

Urinary incontinence is the involuntary passing of urine. Pets can be incontinent for many different reasons. Those reasons can involve the bladder, the urethra which is the tube from the bladder to the outside, or incontinence can be caused by abnormalities in the parts of the brain and spinal cord that control bladder function. Incontinence can be confused with diseases that cause a pet to urinate frequently. A physical exam and laboratory tests will help in the proper diagnosis.

More than 20% of spayed females are affected with urinary incontinence. Both male and female dogs can be affected, with medium to large breeds being more prone for the problem. The number of cases is likely to increase with the growing number of older dogs, advances in geriatric veterinary care and significant amount of time pets spend indoors. Urethral Sphincter Mechanism Incompetence is the most commonly diagnosed cause of urinary incontinence: 81% of incontinent adult females and 57% of all dogs with involuntary urine loss. Phenylpropanolamine (PPA) is the most frequently dispensed medication for this type of incontinence.

Incontinence can be confused with submissive urination. Submissive urination occurs when a dog is acting submissive to a person or to another dog. Submissive urination occurs more frequently in young animals. The dog usually rolls on its back and urinates. These dogs can also urinate normally.

Young animals may have a birth defect causing incontinence. The most common birth defect that causes incontinence in young dogs is ectopic ureter(s). The ureters carry urine from the kidneys to the bladder. If one or both ureters by-pass the bladder and connect to an abnormal location such as the urethra or vagina, the puppy may drip urine. Siberian Huskies are most often affected. Other breeds that have a higher occurrence of this birth defect include:

• Miniature Poodle
• Labrador Retriever
• Collie
• Welsh Corgi
• Wire-haired Fox Terrier
• West Highland White Terrier

Female dogs are more commonly affected. If only one ureter is abnormal the dog will dribble urine but can also urinate normally. If both ureters are affected then the puppy will only dribble urine and cannot pass urine normally. To diagnose this condition a dye study of the bladder is usually performed. Sometimes the abnormal opening into the vagina can be seen during a careful examination under anesthesia using special equipment. Most puppies with ectopic ureter(s) also have a bladder infection that will improve with antibiotics but the infection will return until the problem is corrected. In some cases the ureter can be surgically moved back to the normal location in the bladder and incontinence may resolve. In other cases, long standing infection of the kidney may have damaged the kidney requiring the removal of one kidney. In yet other cases the abnormality of the ureter can be corrected but the pet remains incontinent, probably due to the presence of other birth defects in the urinary system.

A bladder infection can cause either a strong urge to urinate or if the bladder infection is long standing it can cause scarring of the bladder preventing it from stretching to hold urine. In this case the pet is usually not truly incontinent in that they know they are urinating, but they have such a strong urge to empty their bladder that they may urinate in abnormal locations or urinate very frequently. It is common to evaluate incontinent pets for the presence of a bladder infection. 

Pets with a partial blockage of the urethra with a stone or a tumor may show incontinence. If they cannot empty their bladder completely because something is blocking the path to the outside, the bladder may get so large that the back pressure of urine in the bladder actually forces some urine to leak around the blockage. In these pets the enlarged bladder can be felt on examination. Total blockage of urine flow is usually fatal in 3 to 4 days.

Hormone-responsive incontinence occurs in neutered dogs of both sexes and occasionally in spayed female cats but occurs most commonly in female dogs. The pet can urinate normally, but they leak urine while resting. Physical examination and blood and urine tests are usually normal in these pets. Hormone-responsive incontinence can occur months to years after a pet is neutered. As pets age they may become incontinent. This may be due to a weakening of the muscles that hold urine in the bladder. There are many diseases that can cause a pet to create more urine than normal (polyuria) and several of these occur in older pets. If a pet has one of these diseases and often has a full bladder, the full bladder can push against the weakened sphincter and cause incontinence. Older pets can also develop senility and simply be unaware that they are dribbling urine.

Dogs with brain or spinal cord disease may either dribble urine or be unable to pass urine. Most often they will have other signs of nervous system disease such as muscle weakness or paralysis.

A less common cause of incontinence in female dogs is called vulvovaginal stenosis. It is a condition in which the vagina at the level where the urethra ends is narrowed. Occasionally when the pet urinates, some urine will get trapped in the vagina in front of this narrowed area. Then when they rise after lying down the urine pours out. This condition can be diagnosed by feeling the vagina with a gloved finger. In some dogs the narrowing can be stretched under anesthesia. The incontinence may or may not resolve as sometimes other defects are also present. 

Diagnosis of incontinence

The tests performed to evaluate a pet with incontinence depend upon the age of the pet and on the presence or absence of other signs. It is common to collect a urine sample for bacterial culture and to see if the urine is dilute or shows evidence of an infection. Infections of the urine may be secondary to another cause of incontinence.

Questions that your veterinarian will ask to help identify the cause of your pets problem include:

• The age when incontinence first appeared 
• When the incontinence is usually observed, for example at rest or with activity
• Whether the pet can urinate normally 
• Previous surgeries (such as neutering) and illness 
• Use of medications that might cause the urine to be dilute such as diuretics, anticonvulsants or prednisone 
• How much water the pet drinks
• How frequently the pet urinates and whether the pet seems to be uncomfortable when he or she urinates
• Whether the pet shows any signs of nervous system disease such as weakness or seizures

Blood tests may be performed to look for evidence of kidney damage from infection or for the presence of diseases that might lead to increased urine production. 

Plain and/or dye X-rays or ultrasound may be performed to look at the parts of the urinary tract. 

Treating the Incontinent Patient

Specific treatment of an underlying disease may resolve incontinence; for example, surgery to correct an ectopic ureter. Inappropriate urination caused by behavioral problems may be corrected with training that modifies the pets behavior.

When no specific cause can be identified for the incontinence drugs may be given that increase the tone of the muscles that hold urine in the bladder. Some drugs that are used for this purpose include estrogen, ephedrine and phenylpropanolamine. Phenylpropanolamine is a sympathomimetic, non-hormonal agent which increases sphincter tone and alleviates urinary incontinence by stimulation of the alpha adrenergic receptors in the urethral muscle.

Drug therapy for incontinence may be based on trial of different drugs in various doses. Since some of these drugs can have side effects so low doses are tried first. Some drugs may be slow to have an effect so as long as there are no undesirable side effects, a drug trial should continue for several weeks before the drug is considered not to be effective.

Urinary Incontinence and Bladder Problems in Dogs

Incontinence is loss of voluntary control over the act of voiding. This medical condition must to be differentiated from a housetraining problem and/or submissive urination, especially in young dogs. Incontinent dogs wet their bed or the floor where they are sleeping, urinate inappropriately in the house, sometimes dribble urine, and may void more frequently than normal. There may be an ammonialike odor about the dog’s bedding. The skin around the penis or vulva may be scalded.

There are several types of urinary incontinence.

Horomone-Responsive Incontinence

This common incontinence is seen most often in middle-aged and older spayed females, and less commonly in young females and older neutered males. It is caused by a deficiency of estrogen in females and testosterone in males. Both these hormones are important in maintaining muscle tone of the urethral sphincter.

Hormone-responsive incontinence is much like bedwetting. The dog urinates normally, but wets when relaxed or asleep.

Treatment: Hormone-responsive incontinence in spayed females is treated by giving phenylpropanolamine, a drug that increases the tone of the urethral sphincter. Diethylstilbestrol (estrogen) can be given if phenylpropanolamine is not successful. However, diethylstilbestrol is no longer the first choice for treatment because of the risk of bone marrow suppression. Phenylpropanolamine is periodically taken off the market, because it is also used in human diet supplements and can be abused. If it unavailable, your veterinarian will work with you to use the lowest dose possible of estrogen to control your dog’s incontinence.

Incontinence in neutered males responds well to giving the dog testosterone. Phenylpropanolamine has also been used successfully in males.

Submissive Urination

This is another common problem, characterized by the release of urine caused by contraction of the abdominal wall muscles along with relaxation of the muscles that support the urethra-the normal voiding process. The dog passes small amounts of urine when she is upset or in a stressful situation. It has also been called stress incontinence. This is most common in young puppies in their new homes, and many will simply outgrow it.

Treatment: Submissive urination can be treated with phenylpropanolamine and/or other drugs that increase urethral tone while behavior modification techniques are applied. Keep stress-provoking interactions low key and brief, and avoid bending over the dog or making direct eye contact with her. Do not punish the dog, as this makes the incontinence worse. Working with a dog trainer or canine behaviorist is recommended to address this behavioral issue.

Neurogenic Incontinence

Spinal cord injuries, infections, tumors, and inherited neuropathies can interfere with the nerves that control the bladder. A bladder with a compromised nerve supply lacks muscle tone and cannot contract. The bladder continues to fill until the pressure exceeds the resistance of the sphincter mechanism that closes the urethra. This results in intermittent, uncontrolled dribbling.

Neurogenic incontinence can be confirmed with a cystometrogram. This is a test that measures how forcefully the bladder contracts in response to the introduction of incremental volumes of fluid into it through a catheter. The results also suggest the site of the neurologic deficit (the spinal cord or the bladder).

Treatment: Neurogenic incontinence is treated with long-term catheterization and antibiotics to treat and suppress infection. Drugs that act on the bladder may be of help. This type of incontinence is difficult to treat. The problem may totally resolve, however, in dogs whose spinal cord injuries have been successfully treated.

Incontinence from Overdistension of the Bladder

This type of incontinence is due to a partially obstructed bladder, caused by urethral stones, tumor, or stricture. The signs and symptoms are similar to those of neurogenic incontinence, but the nerve supply to the bladder is undamaged.

Treatment: Dribbling associated with an overdistended bladder is treated by correcting the cause of the obstruction and placing an indwelling catheter until the bladder regains its muscular tone. Drug therapy is also beneficial. Since the bladder is neurologically normal, treatment may eliminate the problem entirely.

Crucial Tips When Thinking To Look At Rescue Dogs

Dogs end up in a Rescue Centre for many varied reasons, they may have simply got lost, their owners have moved – possibly abroad and cannot take them with them, owners passing away, abandoned or rescued from abuse and mistreatment.

The Rescue Centres throughout the country do an amazing job for our canine friends and having visited many, DogSense cannot praise enough the staff and many volunteers, who devote their time and efforts to improving the lives of these dogs and they do all in their power to assist each dog in being re-homed to a caring and loving human pack.

Comforting to know…

It should be remembered that irrespective of a dogs past, they do move on very quickly and do not dwell on past events, it is with this in mind that rescued dogs have moved on to work with the police, customs, search and rescue and even as guide dogs for the blind.

Rescue dogs will make every bit as good a pet as any dog from a breeder and with enough dogs in the world without homes it is a viable option to consider and one that I commend and support.
Planning Ahead Before Taking On A Rescue Dog

It is important before taking on a rescue dog that you research and give great consideration to the idea of bringing one into your home. There is nothing worse for a dog than being given a new home and the owners finding they cannot cope and return the dog to the centre… so I encourage you to think long and hard before committing to this new lifestyle.

	Can you afford to feed the dog, care for and provide the cost of veterinary care if required?
	Give consideration to the change of lifestyle, how much time will your dog be left ‘home alone’?
	What plans will you make for taking holidays abroad? Importantly, will you have time to devote to taking your dog for walks?
	The walk is an important ritual, an opportunity for you to demonstrate your leadership, for the dog to socialise as well as the necessary exercise – if your dog is not getting enough exercise, chances are neither are you!

Do not rush the process of finding a dog.
You should look for a dog that matches the energy levels of you and your family. Look for a dog that is calm and submissive, one that shows interest in you and is not looking to you as a ‘key to the door’.
Bringing Your Rescue Dog Home To Meet His Extended Family

When you bring your dog home, take it for a long walk, this will burn off excess energy, allow the dog to familiarise itself with the new territory and to enable you to bond and establish yourself as the pack leader.

TIP: After the walk, be sure to go through any door first as the leader should and invite the dog to follow.

Once Home, What Now?

Rescue Centres – Here Are Some Tips For Rescue Dogs:

	Deal with any problems at once, do not allow them to escalate because you feel sorry for this dog who may have had a previous bad time, as mentioned dogs move on – feeling sorry is a weak energy and your dog will not look to you for leadership if you are unbalanced.
	Never shout at or use any physical punishment.
	All good behaviour should be rewarded – *ignore all unwanted behaviour.
	Provide regular exercise and stimulate your dogs mind mentally.
	Allow other family members to assist in the tasks of exercise, feeding, grooming etc. Do not allow the dog to become reliant on one individual family member. The pack depends on balance and consistency.
	Ignore all attention seeking behaviour.
	Be patient, calm but assertive when dealing with behaviour problems, it may take time to modify unwanted behaviour.
	Remember you can do anything with your dog – allow him on the sofa, to sleep in your bed; however anything your dog does must be on your terms.
	Any behaviour that you do not feel comfortable in modifying, particularly issues with aggression, it is always advisable to consult a professional.

PLEASE NOTE: *ignore unwanted behaviour – this means when you or you family feel guilty when he pines or when you feel guilty just soon after you have reprimanded him. It is good for you to turn your back or walk away from this type of behaviour. His mother would do it too.

A balanced dog has a home and a pack, it is loved, well trained and socialised and it has regular walks, play and motivation. Your dog should always have a job. A balanced and happy dog does not stress if left alone for short periods, it should be easily handled and groomed.

If you have enjoyed reading so far, be sure to subscribe to my monthly newsletter and your comments are always welcome…

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THE ART OF ADOPTING A SHELTER OR RESCUE DOG & MAKING IT WORK

Dogs of all breeds, mixes, sizes and types are always available for adoption from shelters or rescues. The selection changes daily, unfortunately. The decision to adopt a "recycled" dog can be a positive one if careful choices are made and a commitment is made to train and socialize the new family member.

DECISIONS, DECISIONS
In order to make your shelter adoption a more informed and less of an emotional decision, certain requirements need to be listed before the trip to the shelter:


SIZE:

Large, medium, or small dog? Keep in mind size does not necessarily designate space required or energy level.

COAT:

Long, short, one that will require grooming/shaving? Keep in mind short-coated dogs such as Labs and Dalmatians shed JUST AS MUCH if not more than longer coated dogs such as Golden Retrievers or Shelties.

BREED:

Purebred? Mix? If a purebred is desired, make sure ALL breed traits are researched - EACH breed has good and bad traits, and those are variable depending on the person!

ACTIVITY LEVEL:

Usually if the breed or mix is known, the level of activity will be able to be ascertained, as well.

AGE:

Puppy or adult or senior? Most dogs find their way to shelters between the ages of 6 months and 1 year of age, because that is the worst behaved time of a dog's life - their adolescence; they WILL misbehave more during that time period. Adult dogs can also come to you with excess baggage of behavior problems from their previous life, but usually they can be worked through. Seniors can sometimes have age-related health or behavior problems, but can be a wonderful laid-back companion.

AT THE SHELTER

When looking for a dog, remember that WYSIWYG!! A shy, cowering dog will take just as much work as an overpowering, in-your-face dog. Dogs in rows of cages or kennel runs may still act like a pack; each one of them may be at their gate barking and clawing! Take each dog you are interested in off to a quieter area away from the masses to evaluate him behaviorally. Ask the shelter worker about the dog. Look into his eyes - I really believe in honest eyes; they can reveal a lot about the dog. A dog that is interested in play, especially fetching, is a very good candidate; you have the start of a good, positive bridge of understanding. Look for a dog that will come up to you - one that is interested in interacting with you. An aloof dog will most likely remain aloof. All family members should meet the adoptive prospect - even down to the smallest child. If the dog shows any fear or aggression to anyone, the adoption should NOT take place!

ONCE YOU BRING YOUR NEW DOG HOME

Establish an area for the new dog that will keep him AND your house safe. The safest way to do this is with a crate (cage). Most shelter dogs spent their time in a cage or a run, so the transition to a crate at your home should run smoothly. A confined area such as a crate will greatly assist with potty training [see article] and give the dog a safe, comfortable place. Time in your house outside the crate should ALWAYS be supervised for several weeks to several months, depending on the dog. The only factor regarding supervision or lack of is your observation of the dog's behavior; age, breed and size are not. Feeding times should be in the crate at first, as well as daily times in the crate even while you are around. Dogs quickly learn when they are crated only when nobody is at home, and some can develop separation anxiety. No matter how old the new dog is when you adopt him, he should ALWAYS be treated like a puppy and not trusted with ANYTHING until he earns it. You have worked too hard for your house and the stuff in it to have it destroyed by a rescue dog!

No matter how old the dog is, potty training should ALWAYS follow the same pattern: outside ON LEASH, with voice command to eliminate, praise during elimination and freedom in the house ONLY after elimination outside. The length of time you will need to do this will depend on the dog - it will vary from days to months

One of the most important things to do with your new dog is to enroll in an obedience class. This class is important for many reasons: · establishes a working relationship and bond between owner and dog · socializes dog to other people and other dogs · helps to reinforce basic training, even if the dog seems to know the basics · helps to teach the dog that he must comply even if many distractions are present

DO NOT make excuses for your new dog! You may observe he is shy around men or strangers; many people think the dog was abused before they got him. He may have had a scary experience, but generally, if you don't know for a fact he was, he was probably just under socialized. To sit on the excuse, "Oh, be careful with him, he was abused as a puppy," is an immobilizing thought. Instead of carefully avoiding things that frighten your dog, give that man/stranger an irresistible treat to give to your dog every time they meet; you may be able to work through the problem! What may have happened in your rescue dog's past doesn't need to cripple him for life!

Unless you worked closely with a shelter veterinarian before the adoption, the first trip after acquiring your new dog should be to a veterinarian. The dog should be evaluated health-wise before he establishes himself in your home and in your heart. The veterinarian will check a stool sample (you need to take a fresh teaspoonful with you) for intestinal parasites, do a general exam, and check him for heartworm (if he is old enough). The veterinarian will also evaluate his vaccination history (which you also need to take to the appointment) and give him any vaccinations he is lacking.

INTRODUCING YOUR NEW DOG TO OTHER PETS

If you have other pets, part of your pre-adoption evaluation should be to observe how your dog-of-choice interacts with other animals. Ask shelter workers what this dog is like, but also see for yourself. Introduce another shelter resident the dog is not familiar with - with the help of a shelter worker, of course! If you have cat(s), ask a shelter worker to bring out a cat who tolerates dogs. Some shelters will allow you to bring your pets for an introduction, others may require it.

If the potential adoptee has a problem with the type of pet(s) you already have a home, that dog should NOT go home with you, UNLESS you are willing to spend A LOT of time with introductions and supervision, as well as A LOT of training and socialization time. You must also realize that a dog- or cat-aggressive dog MAY NOT ever change!

Once you have established that your adoptee seems to tolerate other animals, you will still have to invest time in introduction and supervision of the new dog and existing pets at home. Introductions should happen in controlled settings. The new dog should be ON LEASH, and your existing pets should also be controlled in some way: cat in carrier (you could be bitten or scratched if you hold the cat for the new dog to meet!), other dog(s) on leash - one at a time. Some raised hackles are normal even in friendly introductions. Keep leashes fairly loose or leave dragging on the ground, but always be ready to pull each dog away from the other should an argument ensue. If a fight starts, NEVER put your hands anywhere near to grab dogs! Instead, throw a blanket over them or use a chair to separate them by wedging in between. These introductions work best when a person handles each animal.

The new dog should NOT be alone in the house with your existing pets until you have carefully monitored and controlled their interactions for a period of time. That time period could be anywhere from a couple days to a month or more. The new dog should be crated when you are not able to supervise. The crate can still be in an area where your existing pets can approach to sniff; however, this also needs to be supervised. Your pets could tease the new one, or the new one could be somewhat cage aggressive/protective and lunge and growl.

With careful planning, preparation and training, adopting a shelter or rescue dog can be one that will work for life.

QUICK CHECKLIST FOR ADOPTIONS

• DON'T USE YOUR HEART in decisions! Think your choices CAREFULLY through. 
• Make sure the new adoptee will work in your home - with other pets, men, women, children, WHATEVER and WHOEVER he will encounter in his new life with you. 
• CAREFULLY research: breed choices, size, coat, etc. 
• CAREFULLY consider WHY you want a dog, and WHY you want a shelter/rescue dog. After all, the idea is to have adoptions WORK! · Consider WHAT you want to do with this dog: vegetate on the couch, long walks, competition flyball or Frisbee, obedience or agility competition? Use this to help in your decisions. 
• Do you want all that comes with a puppy? Or would you rather start with a dog that is a little more mature? 
• Do NOT adopt with the idea that you will change a dog! You will be able to work with what you have, but generally a dog is the way he'll be, UNLESS you plan to invest a lot of time and money in training, with no guarantees. 
• Do NOT hesitate to engage the help of an experienced behaviorist or trainer to help ease the adoptee's transition into your home and your life. 

Rehoming Your Dog

Whether you are forced to give away a beloved companion due to moving, or you have come to the conclusion that you are ill-equipped to care for a special-needs dog, you can take responsibility to improve its life by finding it an appropriate new home.
Checklist of Homing Needs

Once you have determined that it’s impossible to keep or bring your dog with you, the top priority is to assess your dog’s needs. You may want to write an all-inclusive list of requirements for your dog’s ideal new home without “editing” yourself while you brainstorm. Once you have written all the items you can think of, go through and determine what is non-negotiable for your dog’s unique needs, and write an ad using those top “must-haves”.

Getting Your Dog Ready

Keep in mind that it’s not only what your dog needs, but what prospective adopters will be looking for, so highlight your dog’s best traits in the ad as well. Therefore, make sure that your dog is transition-ready with veterinary care, is spayed or neutered, and freshly groomed.
Advertising

Pre-existing, trusted connections like your friends, neighbors, local veterinarians, and social communities are a good foundation to begin your search. Once you’ve put the word out in these venues, you can also advertise in less familiar places by putting up flyers in local businesses and ads in small and large local publications. Online you can find pet home-matching sites like http://alldog360.blogspot.com/

Interviewing Prospects

You may ask your local pet rescue for the questions they use to screen prospective adopters. By interviewing prospects over the phone first, you can eliminate poor matches.

Once you determine that a prospect is worth meeting, it’s safest and easiest for both parties to find a neutral location to introduce your dog, like a park or pet-friendly coffee shop or café with outdoor seating. If the prospect has children, it is best that they come so you can observe how they get along. If there’s potential, consider conducting a second interview in the prospective adopter’s home so you can see how your dog responds to the environment.

Always listen to your own instincts and don’t fall into the trap of being desperate to rush giving away your dog. Never give your dog away “free to the right person.” Your dog is valuable, so find a reasonable price and stick to your guns.

Transitioning Pet and People

Once you’ve chosen a new caregiver, if your dog has a shyer temperament, you may want them to get as acquainted with the new people as much as possible before saying the final good-bye by having the prospective adopter visit the dog at your home. However, don’t make repeat visits to the adopter’s home — when you leave for good, it could actually be more traumatic for your dog. Usually, you’ll minimize your own grief and your dog’s by making the transition as quickly as possible.
Giving Your Dog Away Due to Behavior Issues

Remember that by adopting a dog to begin with, the dog became your responsibility. Whether you are still in the process of trying to balance and discipline your pet, or you have already come to the conclusion that it’s best to send your dog to a new home, you’ll find some excellent guidance on our Rescue and Resources page
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HOW TO BUY A DOG

 I have organized the following into specific categories for easier reading. However, the order in which this is presented does not necessarily mean that this is the order in which these questions should be asked nor does it signify the importance of one question over another. This is not meant to be a complete list of questions or considerations, just a starting point to get you thinking before making this long term commitment.
I.   Ask yourself "Why do you want a dog?"
     A.   Pet/companion
     B.   Showing 
     C.   Breeding
     D.   All of the above
II.  Learn how to choose the right breed for you
     A.   Read about the breeds that interest you
     B.   Attend a few dog shows and observe the characteristics
          of the breed you have chosen
     C.   Find out what type of grooming or special care this
          breed requires
     D.   Talk to and visit several breeders
          1.   Ask about specific characteristics
          2.   Ask about inherited problems
          3.   Look at adults
          4.   Look at puppies
          5.   Remember: This puppy will be an adult longer than
               it will be a puppy--do you like the adults of this
               breed??
     E.   Always look at more than one litter before deciding on
          a specific puppy (by this I mean visit more than one
          breeder to view two separate litters) this way you have
          some basis for comparison.
     F.   Have you considered rescuing an older dog rather than 
          purchasing a puppy?  Sometimes, an older dog is more 
          appropriate for your household and you work schedule.
III. Questions to ask the breeder

     A.   About the parents & grandparents
          1.   Temperament of the ancestors
               a.   shyness
               b.   viciousness
               c.   hyperactive
               d.   what are they like??
               e.   how are they to live with on a daily basis?
          2.   Known hereditary problems (ask for certification
               that the parents are clear)
               a.   Hip displaysia
               b.   Eye problems
               c.   Thyroid problems
               d.   Bleeding disorders
               e.   others specific to your breed of choice
          3.   Results of prior breedings (if any)
               a.   What type of puppies (mentally and physically)
                    has this dog produced in the past?
               b.   Mental and physical soundness of aunts,
                    uncles, etc.
     B.   About the puppies
          1.   Health record
               a.   What shots have they had
               b.   What shots do they still need
               c.   Have they been wormed
               d.   What type of food are they eating
          2.   Environment they were raised in (home vs. kennel)
          3.   Describe an average day in the puppy's life at age
               6 or 7 weeks. 
          4.   Anticipated temperament of each puppy in this
               litter (it is important to know as much as
               possible about the siblings of your puppy)
          5.   If you are buying a show or breeding quality
               puppy, it is even more important to find out about
               the siblings.
          6.   If you are buying a show or breeding quality be
               certain that the littermates are free of
               hereditary defects (this includes all males having
               both testicles--even if you are buying a bitch
               puppy).
          7.   Which puppy is breeding quality, show quality or
               pet quality (you don't want to get your heart set
               on one puppy then be told that that is a show
               puppy and is not for sale)
          8.   What type of health guarantee does the breeder
               give for a show puppy? a pet puppy?
          9.   Will the breeder take the dog back or assist you
               in placing the dog should you ever decide that you
               cannot keep it?
IV.  Questions the breeder should ask you 

     A.   Why do you want this dog?
     B.   Have you researched this breed and what do you know
          about its character traits?
     C.   Do you have other pets?
     D.   Have you ever owned a dog? One of this breed?
     E.   Were will the dog be kept?  Indoors or outdoors most of
          the time?
     F.   What hours do you work?  Your spouse?
     G.   Do you have children?  What ages?
     H.   Describe a typical week at your house now.
     I.   Describe a typical weekend day at your house now.
     J.   Project a typical week at your house after you get the
          puppy.
     K.   Project a typical weekend at your house after you get
          the puppy.
     L.   Project a typical day once he is an adult.
     M.   Where will the dog go when you go on vacation
     N.   What would you do if you could no longer keep this dog
     O.   To sign a contract stating specific terms and
          agreements of the sale of this puppy.
     P.   Will this dog be spayed or neutered?
     Q.   If you intent to breed this dog, why?
          1.   To show the children the facts of life
          2.   To recuperate the money you are spending to buy a
               purebred dog
          3.   To attempt to produce puppies better than their
               parents
          Note: Answers 1 and 2 are not acceptable reasons for
          breeding.
V.   If you do breed this dog, outline the process you will follow--from choosing the stud to whelping the litter.

     A.   Check for hereditary defects
     B.   Attend shows and ask breeders' recommendations for stud
          choice.
     C.   Shots current before breeding
     D.   Prenatal care, diet of mother, vet care while in whelp,
          etc.
     E.   The whelping
          1.   Where will the litter be whelped (may depend on
               the time of year), indoors? outdoors? the garage?
          2.   Where will you be during this time?
          3.   Alert your vet when she goes into labor (have more
               than one vet available if possible)
     F.   Where will the pups be kept (and until what age)
     G.   What care will the pups receive prior to being sold (at
          what age will they be sent to their new homes)
          1.   Shots
          2.   Worming
          3.   What will they eat (and at what ages)
     H.   How will you sell the puppies
     I.   How will you screen the potential buyers
     J.   What type of follow up will you do once the pups have
          been sold
     K.   Will you offer any guarantees
     L.   How will you arrive at a sales price for the pups
     M.   Will you provide a home for the pups for their ENTIRE
          lifetime (yes, even if they are sold and then returned
          to you for some reason)
VI.  How to evaluate the breeder (not the dogs)

     A.   If the breeder does not ask you most of the above
          questions, maybe you should choose another breeder.
     B.   Do they seem truly interested in your home environment?
     C.   Have they evaluated the litter into show, pet, or
          breeding stock?
     D.   Have they priced the litter based upon their expenses
          for the litter or upon their honest evaluation of the
          quality of the puppies?
     E.   Are the puppies in a healthy environment?
     F.   How are the adults kept?  Do they receive adequate
          attention, socialization, nutrition?
     G.   Speak to several breeders, if most breeders are telling
          you one thing and one does not, either he is ignorant
          of the fact or he does not care.  Neither situation is
          good.  If they cannot give you a satisfactory answer
          when you directly ask them about this point, choose
          another breeder to buy your puppy from.
     H.   Do you get the feeling that once you walk out the door
          with the puppy, you are on your own?  or do you feel
          that you could call this breeder for help at any time
          in the puppy's life?
VII. How to choose your puppy once you have chosen the breeder

     you wish to work with.
     A.   Male vs. Female
     B.   What type of adult do you want
          1.   Active vs docile
          2.   Show vs. pet
          3.   Will the dog live primarily indoors or outdoors
     C.   Ask the breeder to project a what puppy's temperament
          will be like as an adult 
     D.   Evaluate temperament first as the dog will be your pet
          first and foremost.  He cannot be anything else unless
          he is a good pet.  If you cannot enjoy living with the
          dog, why have it?  We choose to have a dog--it should
          be a pleasure not a burden.
     E.   Coat color, markings and eye color should be the last
          consideration after you have decided on the type of
          temperament you can live with and which sex you prefer. 
          If you are adamant about specific color or markings,
          wait until they are on the puppy with the appropriate
          temperament for you.
     F.   If you are buying a show puppy, attend enough shows,
          read enough books to have a basic idea of what you want
          in a show dog then ask the breeder to help project what
          each puppy may turn out like as an adult.  REMEMBER: 
          No one knows for sure, it is just an educated guess at
          best!
     G.   If you have questions or concerns about your puppy
          (behavior, physical development, etc.) at any time
          after your purchase--call the breeder immediately. 
          Don't be afraid to ask for help!  It could save you a
          lot of heartache in the long run.
     H.   Remember, by purchasing this puppy, you are committing
          to its care for the rest of its life.  But, in the
          event that you cannot keep it as you had planned, call
          the breeder immediately.  A good breeder always wants
          to know where their pups are.  They will also help you
          place the dog or approve a new home if you have lined
          up.
     I.   It is very important that you maintain contact with the
          breeder of your puppy.  If you do not feel comfortable
          doing that, perhaps you chose the wrong breeder to
          purchase a puppy from.  You buy the breeder as well as
          the puppy so try to be sure you get a good one of each!!!

my vet just gave my dog 5 times the usual dosage of steriods for an ear infection.Is he under any kind of danger ?

my vet just gave my dog 5 times the usual dosage of steriods for an ear infection.Is he under any kind of danger ?

I assume they were the most common type used.


Is it Prednizone? If your unsure on the dose, you can call another vet for a second opinion. Which is what I would do. The dose might depend on the weight of the dog. One time I called a pharmacist for drug interactions for my dog because I was unsure on what my vet prescribed. They were very helpful. Maybe you could also try that. Most times, vets, Dr's and pharmacists want to help. Also, I don't know what kind

Some popular Questions About Dogs

Not sure why your furry friend is always sniffing everything? Azula answers all of your burning pet questions.

Why can’t dogs eat chocolate?

—Hannah

Dogs can’t eat chocolate for the same reason parrots like me can’t eat chocolate, Hannah—our bodies don’t know how to digest it. (Bummer, huh?) Chocolate contains something called Theobromine. Humans can digest it no problem, but not dogs. Theobromine can make them puke, get diarrhea, have seizures or worse. Eek!

Your dog doesn’t know that, though, and might still think chocolate looks pretty tasty, so make sure to keep it out of his reach. And next time you indulge in chocolaty goodness, don’t share with your pet—no matter how much he begs!

Oh, and before I forget: If you think your pet is sick from eating chocolate (or eating something else), ask a parent to call your veterinarian, or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

I heard that when dogs wag their tails, it doesn't always mean they are happy. For example, if a dog is feeling aggressive, does the wagging look different than when he’s happy?

—Bethany

What you heard is right, Bethany! Dogs wag their tails to express many feelings. An aggressive dog might hold his tail high and stiffly wag it back and forth, which is called “flagging,” while a happy dog might just gently wag his tail from side to side.

But it’s important to look at the whole dog to figure out what he’s trying to tell you. What are his ears saying? What about his face? Instead of talking, dogs use their whole bodies to communicate.

Do dogs really sweat through their paws?

—Troy

I see you know your dogs, Troy! Most people think dogs can’t sweat at all, but man’s best friend really does sweat through his footpads. Paw sweating is one of the ways dogs keep cool on a hot summer day, but it’s not the most important. Dogs can also pant to cool down, and they have some other tools in their bodies to beat the heat as well.

Just like you, your dog needs help to stay cool sometimes. Dogs like sitting in the air conditioning when the mercury hits 100, too, and I bet you’d both enjoy ice cubes in your summertime beverages—even though you probably wouldn’t want to drinkyours from a bowl on the floor.

Can dogs control when they wag their tails, or does it happen automatically?

—Lisa

Wow, Lisa, I’m impressed! That’s a very smart question to ask. It proved too hard for this humble parrot, so I got some help from ASPCA expert Dr. Stephen Zawistowski. (You can call him “Dr. Z”—we do!) Here’s what he had to say:

“Think of tail wagging like a smile. Sometimes you smile without knowing, and sometimes you can make yourself smile. I think dogs are the same with their tails. Sometimes it just happens, and other times it seems like they ‘think’ about it.”

That’s the word from the expert. Keep asking questions, and you could be an animal expert one day, too!

Do I need to brush my dog’s teeth?

—Richard

That depends, Richard—does he have dog breath?? But seriously, your dog can get tooth and gum disease just like you can, and brushing his teeth will help keep him healthy. But instead of toothpaste you buy at the drugstore, dogs need special dog toothpaste, in flavors like peanut butter and meat. (Gross to us, delicious to them!) And you can't just get a brush and start scrubbing—you need a special technique to brush your dog's teeth.

So next time you take your pet for a check-up, have the vet show you and your parents how to brush your dog's teeth. He'll have gleaming chompers in no time!

My dog is a breed—sighthound—that chases. I know it was bred into this breed so long ago that it is definitely hardwired in. When she tries to chase humans (e.g., bikers, joggers or cross-country skiers) WHY is she doing it? Is it out of fear, aggression, protection, her take on her job, or some kind of combination?

—Rebecca

Great question, Rebecca! It’s hard to say what’s going on in the minds of our dogs sometimes! But your fourth guess was right—your dog isn’t scared or angry, she’s just been bred to think that chasing things is her job. The drive to chase ANYTHING moving quickly is so much part of her doggie brain that she just can’t help herself. She does it because that’s what sighthounds—like Greyhounds, Whippets, Borzois and Basenjis—do best!

As you know, Rebecca, sighthounds have been around for thousands of years (they even lived with the people who invented the wheel—not kidding). They were bred to use their vision to hunt fast-moving things…and then to chase those things as fast as possible. So celebrate your pup’s special skill, and keep her on a leash when you’re on a walk!

Why do dogs have tails? 

—Jonathan

Lots of us animals have tails—dogs, cats, iguanas, monkeys, parrots—so the better question, Jonathan, is why don’t you??

Dogs use tails for lots of different stuff, like for balance and to change direction when they’re swimming (like a rudder on a boat). Some bushy-tailed dogs, like Huskies and Samoyeds, curl up into a ball to sleep and use their tails to keep their noses warm!

But the coolest thing dogs’ tails do is help them communicate, both with other dogs and people. Dogs wag their tails and hold them high or low to express their mood. If you knew your dog was happy to see you because he wagged his tail quickly, then your dog communicated with you using his tail!

Ew!!!! My dog rolled in something nasty! It is disgusting!! Why do dogs roll around in dead stuff? 

—Olivia

Because it’s easier to roll around in dead stuff than alive stuff?

Just kidding! Actually, Olivia, rolling around in stuff that makes people want to barf—be it dead squirrels, poop or rotting garbage—is an instinct that comes from dogs’ wolf ancestors. Scientists don’t know for sure why dogs have that instinct, but they have a few ideas.

The most popular theory is that dogs roll around in the yucky stuff to cover up their natural smell, giving them camouflage and helping them be sneakier hunters. Another idea is that dogs are putting the funky smell on their bodies so they can alert other dogs to what they found. (When other dogs sniff your dog, they’ll get the exciting news that there’s a dead animal nearby.) Still a third idea is that dogs love to shimmy on gross things to claim them as their own—they don’t want any other dogs getting in on that prime piece of grossness.

So there you have it. Now, go give your dog a bath! He smells terrible!

I want to become an animal cop when I grow up. What college should I go to? 

—Cameron, 11

An animal cop!? That’s awesome, Cameron. We love hearing from peeps of all ages who want to help fight animal cruelty. I got the answer to your question straight from the horse’s mouth. Well, actually, I got it straight from the animal cop’s mouth!

ASPCA Special Agent Kristi Adams told me that it’s less about what college you go to and more about what courses you take. Says Agent Adams, “If you really want to get involved in humane law enforcement, it is good to take a few criminal justice classes or animal behavior classes.”

She also recommends that you volunteer or work at a veterinary office, animal shelter or law enforcement establishment. “But most importantly,” says Agent Adams, “you must have compassion and respect for animals.”

Why do dogs eat so fast? 

—Jasmine

Let me just wolf down my breakfast so I can begin researching your question. Just kidding, Jasmine—but that expression is no joke!

You know how sometimes you’re stuffed at dinner and you just can’t eat those last few French fries? Well, it’s not like that for most dogs. Dogs are evolved from wolves, who live in the wild and eat as much as they can, whenever they can. If they don’t gobble their food quickly, other animals might take it—and who knows when they’ll get a chance to eat again?

Nowadays, some pet dogs take their time when they eat—they know there’s no threat lurking, and they know they get regular food and treats. Still, many dogs take after their wild ancestors, and chow down big time at mealtime.

What should I do if I see an animal being abused? 

—La’Tayra, 10

Great question, La’Tayra. If you see someone hurting an animal, it's important to get help fast! Don't try to help the animal yourself, but be sure to tell an adult you trust. Together, you and an adult can call the police or your local animal shelter. As the ASPCA animal cops know, good back-up is essential!

It’s also a smart idea to write down everything you see happen, who was involved, the date of the incident and where it took place.

If your dog runs away, should you spank him on the bottom? 

—Adrian

Ouch! The answer is no way, Adrian. No one likes to get spanked, not even dogs. Besides, we know that hitting animals is wrong, and that they feel pain just like you humans do. Some people will try to punish their dogs by using cruel types of discipline, like hitting. But this never works. Dogs need kindness and patience to learn. But more importantly, dogs need their human families to keep them safe. That includes keeping dogs safe inside with the front door closed, or safe in the backyard. It's important for a dog to be loved and protected by his family. Being hurt by someone you love or trust is just no fun.

Why do cats and dogs fight whenever they see each other? 

—Mary Jane, 10

Well, Mary Jane, have you ever heard the phrase “fighting like cats and dogs?” That’s a well-known expression for a reason! The truth is, cats and dogs fight simply because they don’t speak the same language. For example, cats tend to lash their tails when they’re mad, but dogs growl. And while cats purr when they’re happy, dogs wag their tails. So, there are really a lot of mixed signals going on!

The good news is, once they’re familiar with each other, cats and dogs can learn to talk to each other—especially if they’re introduced when they’re young. And dogs and cats can even become the best of friends—playing together, greeting each other nose-to-nose and even sharing the same water bowl!

Hey ho! Ho hey! I have a special tweet for you this week! That's right, ASPCA Special Agent Kristi Adams is in the house—the bird house, that is—and she's here to answer a few of your questions about what it's like to be an ASPCA Humane Law Enforcement agent. 

Thanks, Agent Adams, for all you to do rescue animals from abuse—and for taking the time to answer all our questions!

We really love our small dog, but the problem we are having is his HAIR. He is the worst shedder ever! What can I do? 

—Mary

Talk about having bad hair day, Mary! Seriously, I’m glad you have such a great little dog! Some dogs were built to shed, and that’s just the way they are—but sometimes, dogs can shed a lot more than they should if they’re sick or if something is wrong with their skin.

So first, please make sure your little guy is healthy by taking him to see his veterinarian. If the vet says your furball is fine, you are going to have to stock up on lint rollers and find ways to cope with his major shedding.

One thing that will help is for you to brush him a lot—every day, if you can. A lot of his dead hair, which was going to come out anyway all over your house, will come out in the brush instead! If you want even less of a mess, have your daily brushing sessions outside. Your dog will look great and you’ll get some extra exercise—and lots of dogs loooove being brushed, so it’s a fun way for you to bond with your doggie. Good luck, and we hope the situation doesn’t get too hairy!

How do dogs learn to swim? 

—Rebecca, 12

It totally depends on the dog, Rebecca. Some pooches just run into the water and instinctively know how to kick their legs in order to stay afloat. Other dogs are scared of the water, but they may learn to like if it they are introduced gently to warm, comfortable water in a bathtub. But most dogs do what most human beings do when they first hit the water—the doggie paddle! P.S. If you ever see a dog doing the butterfly stroke, let us know!

Why do beagles bark so much more than other breeds? 

- Carrie, 12

Woof! Yap! Bow wow! Arooooo! Well, it’s true that beagles certainly aren’t shy, Carrie. They’re a friendly and alert breed of dog, and because they were bred to hunt, they like a lot of stimulation. We’ve heard about beagles who will bark if they’re left alone for too long and get bored. Like many other dogs, they may also bark at strangers in the house and at other animals passing by.

To find out more, let’s explore the boisterous world of beagle barks. Beagles have different barks, and some can get very loud. Some beagles are big on howling, because their ancestors would howl loudly to let hunters know they had caught their prey. Beagles will also bay—a kind of half-howl—when they catch the scent of something that interests them.

If you have a beagle and you’d like to teach him not to express himself quite so loudly, you can train him. Just make sure to be patient, and don’t give up. It might take him a few months for a beagle to understand what it means when you say “Quiet!” 

Why do dogs poop worms? It’s GROSS!!! 

- Evelyn, 8

Well, Evelyn, it is pretty yucky when you see worms in a dog’s poop. But it actually is a very important clue that either a dog needs medicine to get rid of the worms (also called internal parasites, if you want to get technical) or that he is already taking medicine to get rid of worms, and it is working.

There are different kinds of worms, and they all look different. Some are long, and some are very short—but none of them are healthy for dogs or humans! You should never touch a dog’s poop, especially if there are worms in it, because they can get you sick. 

We hope that answers your question, Evelyn. And we hope that all of the dogs you meet are happy and healthy!

P.S. How about a joke to lighten things up?

Q. Is there anything worse than finding a worm in an apple?

A. Finding half a worm!

Do dogs poop every day and every night? 

―Eleanor

Great question, Eleanor! No one loves pooping more than dogs―except maybe us parrots!

But seriously, the average healthy dog poops between one and three times a day. How often a dog poops depends on his age, his lifestyle, and the amount of food he eats and how good the food is. High-quality food contains less “filler” than low-quality food, so less food is wasted...or should we say, pooped?!

However, it’s more important for pup parents to pay attention to the “state” of the poop than how many poops are pooped. Unhealthy-looking poop can be a sign of a sick pup!

Wow, I’m totally pooped from answering this question!

Why do dogs eat poop? 

―Lizzy, 11

Well, we'll just have to dig right into this one, huh?

Gross as it sounds (and smells!), it's not unusual for companion canines to eat poop—their own, the family cat's, or even another dog's. Scientists used to think that dogs who ate poop were lacking an important nutrient in their diet, but now experts believe that poop munching is just a normal doggie thing to do.

Before they were domesticated, or bred to live in homes with humans, companion canines were scavengers. They never knew where their next meal was coming from, so they'd eat whenever they found food—and whatever they found (and boy, do we mean whatever). So if you see a dog wolfing down something unsavory (something unsavory like poop, that is), he's just acting like his wild ancestors would.

But the debate on poop eating in pooches hasn't been completely settled. Some animal behaviorists think it could be a way to get attention, or even something that a dog might do if he's bored or anxious. If your dog is a poop eater, the whole family should make an effort to prevent him from doing so—he could get sick from parasites or other diseases that could be found in his favorite snack!

How many babies can a dog have? 

―Asmine, 8

An average-sized dog will give birth to 5 to 7 puppies at a time. Smaller dogs, such as miniature poodles or Pekingese, have smaller litters of 2 to 4 puppies. And some breeds, especially Labrador retrievers, can have 15 or more offspring in a litter.

How’s that for an answer to your “pup” quiz?!

Is it true that dogs see only in black and white? 

―Chelsea

Nope—we think! Scientists believe that canines can see part of the range of colors in the visible spectrum. Humans like you can see all the colors—red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet—but dogs probably see mostly in shades of yellow and blue. But remember, this is only a THEORY, since we can't really find out if a color appears the same way to dogs as it does to people.

Why do dogs bark? 

―Miguel

They don't call them BOW WOWS for nothing, Miguel! Dogs bark for many reasons. It's their way of saying, "Hey, I'm here! Come over and see me!" to their human families and other pooch pals. Dogs also bark to warn their owners about intruders on their turf--and to scare these intruders away.

Canines bark to get attention, too. When you are watching your favorite TV show, has your dog ever parked himself in front of you and went "WOOF! WOOF! WOOF!" until you threw his tennis ball?

Why does my dog always sniff everything—even people’s butts? 

—Alexis, 11

Great question, Alexis! And the answer is simple—your dog is simply trying to catch up on the news!

You can surf the Web or watch TV for the latest information, but dogs find out what’s going on with the world through their noses. They have 25 times more smell receptors than human beings do, and with special supersonic sniffing cells hidden deep in their noses, they can pretty much out-smell you in any situation. (Don’t feel bad, though--when it comes to some smells, that’s not always a good thing! Case in point: a pair of socks worn last week in gym class…)

Seriously, a dog can sniff out one drop of blood in five quarts of water. And if you see a dog sniffing a clean sidewalk, he’s probably figuring out what other pooches have been in the neighborhood recently, or what kind of sandwich someone dropped a few days earlier.

What's the most popular dog in the world? 

—Michaela

No contest here! The title goes to the mixed-breed dog—otherwise known as the mutt. If you have a mixed-breed dog, you're lucky—you've got a real one-of-a-kind pet. There can be no other dog who looks exactly like her!

If you were wondering about specific breeds, the most popular (or should we say PUPular?!) canine in the United States is the Labrador retriever. 

My dog is three. How old is that in people's years? 

—Catherine

Dogs grow a lot in their first 2 years—so much that each year equals 12 people years! A dog of 12 months is just entering the teen scene, and by the end of the second year he's a young adult at 24. Starting with the third year, every dog year equals 4 people years. Your pooch is 28 in human years. Do you know how old you are in dog years?

Whenever it rains, my dog gets scared and goes into the tub. Why does she do that? 

—Lauren

Your dog’s not the only scaredy cat, Lauren! A lot of pooches don’t like rain, especially when it comes with strong wind, lightning and thunder.

I checked with the ASPCA's Carmen Buitrago, a certified dog trainer who studies why dogs do the things they do, and she says it’s not all that uncommon for dogs to jump in the tub during storms. “We actually don’t know why they do that, but some people think that it’s because there’s static build-up in the air during a storm—and dogs try to ground themselves near the pipes in toilets or bathtubs,” says Buitrago. It could also just be that the tub is small and snug, and makes your dog feel more comfortable!

Whatever the reason, our doggie expert says you should make sure your pup can get to the tub to comfort herself during storms. You could also play the radio or TV at a loud volume to mask the noise of the storm.

Why do dogs have black lips? 

―Nathan, 10

As you have noticed, Nathan, some breeds of dog have black skin around their mouths, on their noses and on their eye rims. Skin gets its color from something the body produces called pigment—which has nothing to do with pigs!

Darker skin is one way that evolution protects animals from the sun, because darker noses don’t sunburn as easily as lighter ones. So in the beginning, certain dogs simply evolved to have black lips—probably dogs who lived in really sunny places.

So that’s how it started, but in the last hundred years or so, doggy features—including black lips and noses—have probably been influenced more by people than by nature. Humans have taken a big interest in breeding dogs for beauty. Certain breeds of dogs who look good with black lips will be more likely to be chosen by humans to have puppies, thereby passing their black lips on to future generations.

Why does my dog drool? 

―Stefanie

Well, Stefanie, it's not because he has bad table manners. Your pooch uses his saliva to make his food wet and mushy and easier to swallow; it also aids in digestion, too. He's so good at making the ooey-gooey stuff that he can whip up a bunch even when he's just thinking about eating, like if he sees you opening a can or bag of dog food.

Sometimes, though, he produces so much saliva that he can't keep it all in his mouth—and he's no fool, he's gotta drool! Dogs with shortened faces, like bulldogs, tend to drool more 'cause there's less room in their mouths to hold it all. And bow-wows with big lips are big drippers, too.

What kind of toys do dogs like? 

—Sandul, 11

When it comes to toys, Sandul, dogs are like people—everybody has a favorite! Some dogs love stuffed animals, while others prefer to toss around a tennis ball all day, every day. Size matters, too—some dogs prefer teeny, tiny toys and really enjoy batting them like a cat would, while other dogs feel that bigger is better, and get very excited about toys they can’t even fit in their mouths. Ever seen a doggie carrying around a basketball?!

A lot of dogs like to run around like crazy while they play. These dogs love balls, Frisbees and anything you can throw far for them. Then there there are dogs who go bonkers for noisy, squeaky toys, rope toys, puzzle toys and bouncy toys—and then others who turn up their noses at toys entirely!

You just never know what a dog is going to like to play with. Some are crazy about chewing, so the best toys for these pups are safe, hard toys made especially for dogs like them. In fact, it’s important to make sure that all the toys you give your pets are made specifically for them. Since dogs play with their mouths, their toys need to be made extra strong so they don’t get hurt or swallow little pieces that might splinter off. Keep an eye on your dog’s toys and throw them away when they get worn out. Your dog won’t mind, because that just means he gets a new one!

Why do dogs throw up and then eat it? 

—Brittany

Great question, Brittany, but I’m glad I got your email before lunch! Most veterinarians aren’t sure why dogs eat their own throw up, but scientists do have one theory. When dogs lived in the wild, long before they started living with human families in houses, they didn’t like to leave any traces behind that would allow predators or hunters to find them. So they made sure not to leave any trace behind. They covered up their pee and poop with dirt. And if they threw up, they had to hide it somehow—so they ate it.

This is only one theory, Brittany. There may be another answer out there that we don’t know about, but because so many dogs do this, many people just accept it as doggie behavior.

How old is the oldest dog? 

—Shelby, 10

Great timing, Shelby—because, Chanel, the world’s oldest living dog, just celebrated her 21st birthday in May 2009! Officially recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records, Chanel is a cream-colored dachshund mix who lives on Long Island, NY, and wears special goggles to protect her eyes from the sun.

Now, 21 may not seem that old to you, but dogs age differently than humans do. Dogs grow a lot in their first 2 years—so much that each year equals 12 people years! Starting with the third year, every dog year equals 4 people years. When you do the math, Chanel’s age is equal to 100 people years!

P.S. Wondering how Chanel celebrated her big day? She took a trip to the doggy spa with her best buddies, of course!

Why do dogs always lick their noses? 

—Sarah, 12

Because they never remember to carry tissues?!

OK, well, maybe not! That’s actually a great question, Sarah. Dogs use body language to tell us how they are feeling, just like you humans do. You may see a person scratching his head and know that he is confused. Or you may see someone biting her fingernails and know that she is nervous. When a dog licks his nose, it may mean he is feeling a little stressed out.

Scientists who study why dogs act the way they do call this kind of behavior a calming signal. It’s a dog’s way of telling other dogs and people that he may be feeling a bit anxious, but he doesn’t want to take any other action, like growling or fighting. He might lick his nose when he’s deciding whether or not to go up to a dog or person he doesn’t know, or he might lick his nose if he’s getting used to a new place or situation. He’s feeling stressed, but he’s working it out calmly.

Of course, if this happens just after he’s eaten, he may just be trying to get that last bit of lunch off his nose!

Why do dogs eat so fast? 

—Jasmine

Let me just wolf down my breakfast so I can begin researching your question. Just kidding, Jasmine—but that expression is no joke!

You know how sometimes you’re stuffed at dinner and you just can’t eat those last few French fries? Well, it’s not like that for most dogs. Dogs are evolved from wolves, who live in the wild and eat as much as they can, whenever they can. If they don’t gobble their food quickly, other animals might take it—and who knows when they’ll get a chance to eat again?

Nowadays, some pet dogs take their time when they eat—they know there’s no threat lurking, and they know they get regular food and treats. Still, many dogs take after their wild ancestors, and chow down big time at mealtime.

Can dogs smell odors better than people? 

—TooBusyB

Great question, TooBusyB! To answer it, let me put it this way…don’t even think about winning the “Ewww…What’s That Smell?” contest if pooches are allowed to enter!

Some scientists say that dogs can identify smells anywhere from 100 to 1,000 times better than you humans can. You have 5 million scent-detecting cells in your nose. Sounds like a lot, right? Well, a bloodhound has…ahem..300 million of these supersonic sniffing cells!

Dogs don’t use just their noses to detect odors. Every canine has a tiny duct in his mouth that leads to a special gland called the Jacobson’s organ. This organ allows him to “taste” certain odors.

If you see your dog scrunching up his face, lifting his upper lip and opening his mouth (and maybe even drooling!) he is probably using his Jacobson’s organ to get more info about a particular smell. (Unfortunately, a lot of times the smell turns out to be stinky garbage and/

or another dog’s poop!)

—Christin

Believe it or not, Christin, I'm not going to make any silly comments about how your pooch probably just needs a new pair (make that 2!) of shoes. I'm sorry she's being destructive. I talked to one of our certified pet dog trainers at the ASPCA Animal Behavior Center, and she told me some things you can try to change your dog's behavior:

1. Make sure your dog has plenty of her own things to chew on. Dogs like yours often enjoy getting their meals served in special toys made to hold food. They have to work to get their dinner, and that's good exercise for their bodies AND brains!

2. It can really help to give your dog at least 20 minutes of running exercise every day. Twice a day would be even better! We're not talking just walking-you'll need to have her play fetch, take her to the dog park or teach her to go jogging!

3. You can spray the things you don't want your dog to chew with a product like Bitter Apple, which you can find at pet stores. There are other things you can do to help prevent destructive chewing, and you can 

4. Go to school! (We know you're already in school-we mean your dog!) You and your family could take your dog to an obedience class, where she'd learn good manners. (And it's kinda fun, too, even if I do say so myself!)

Good luck! And just think, with all this experience, you may be a shoe-in for a career as a dog trainer!