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12/8/12

THE ART OF ADOPTING A SHELTER OR RESCUE DOG & MAKING IT WORK


Dogs of all breeds, mixes, sizes and types are always available for adoption from shelters or rescues. The selection changes daily, unfortunately. The decision to adopt a "recycled" dog can be a positive one if careful choices are made and a commitment is made to train and socialize the new family member.

DECISIONS, DECISIONS
In order to make your shelter adoption a more informed and less of an emotional decision, certain requirements need to be listed before the trip to the shelter:


SIZE:

Large, medium, or small dog? Keep in mind size does not necessarily designate space required or energy level.

COAT:

Long, short, one that will require grooming/shaving? Keep in mind short-coated dogs such as Labs and Dalmatians shed JUST AS MUCH if not more than longer coated dogs such as Golden Retrievers or Shelties.

BREED:

Purebred? Mix? If a purebred is desired, make sure ALL breed traits are researched - EACH breed has good and bad traits, and those are variable depending on the person!

ACTIVITY LEVEL:

Usually if the breed or mix is known, the level of activity will be able to be ascertained, as well.

AGE:

Puppy or adult or senior? Most dogs find their way to shelters between the ages of 6 months and 1 year of age, because that is the worst behaved time of a dog's life - their adolescence; they WILL misbehave more during that time period. Adult dogs can also come to you with excess baggage of behavior problems from their previous life, but usually they can be worked through. Seniors can sometimes have age-related health or behavior problems, but can be a wonderful laid-back companion.

AT THE SHELTER

When looking for a dog, remember that WYSIWYG!! A shy, cowering dog will take just as much work as an overpowering, in-your-face dog. Dogs in rows of cages or kennel runs may still act like a pack; each one of them may be at their gate barking and clawing! Take each dog you are interested in off to a quieter area away from the masses to evaluate him behaviorally. Ask the shelter worker about the dog. Look into his eyes - I really believe in honest eyes; they can reveal a lot about the dog. A dog that is interested in play, especially fetching, is a very good candidate; you have the start of a good, positive bridge of understanding. Look for a dog that will come up to you - one that is interested in interacting with you. An aloof dog will most likely remain aloof. All family members should meet the adoptive prospect - even down to the smallest child. If the dog shows any fear or aggression to anyone, the adoption should NOT take place!

ONCE YOU BRING YOUR NEW DOG HOME

Establish an area for the new dog that will keep him AND your house safe. The safest way to do this is with a crate (cage). Most shelter dogs spent their time in a cage or a run, so the transition to a crate at your home should run smoothly. A confined area such as a crate will greatly assist with potty training [see article] and give the dog a safe, comfortable place. Time in your house outside the crate should ALWAYS be supervised for several weeks to several months, depending on the dog. The only factor regarding supervision or lack of is your observation of the dog's behavior; age, breed and size are not. Feeding times should be in the crate at first, as well as daily times in the crate even while you are around. Dogs quickly learn when they are crated only when nobody is at home, and some can develop separation anxiety. No matter how old the new dog is when you adopt him, he should ALWAYS be treated like a puppy and not trusted with ANYTHING until he earns it. You have worked too hard for your house and the stuff in it to have it destroyed by a rescue dog!

No matter how old the dog is, potty training should ALWAYS follow the same pattern: outside ON LEASH, with voice command to eliminate, praise during elimination and freedom in the house ONLY after elimination outside. The length of time you will need to do this will depend on the dog - it will vary from days to months

One of the most important things to do with your new dog is to enroll in an obedience class. This class is important for many reasons: · establishes a working relationship and bond between owner and dog · socializes dog to other people and other dogs · helps to reinforce basic training, even if the dog seems to know the basics · helps to teach the dog that he must comply even if many distractions are present

DO NOT make excuses for your new dog! You may observe he is shy around men or strangers; many people think the dog was abused before they got him. He may have had a scary experience, but generally, if you don't know for a fact he was, he was probably just under socialized. To sit on the excuse, "Oh, be careful with him, he was abused as a puppy," is an immobilizing thought. Instead of carefully avoiding things that frighten your dog, give that man/stranger an irresistible treat to give to your dog every time they meet; you may be able to work through the problem! What may have happened in your rescue dog's past doesn't need to cripple him for life!

Unless you worked closely with a shelter veterinarian before the adoption, the first trip after acquiring your new dog should be to a veterinarian. The dog should be evaluated health-wise before he establishes himself in your home and in your heart. The veterinarian will check a stool sample (you need to take a fresh teaspoonful with you) for intestinal parasites, do a general exam, and check him for heartworm (if he is old enough). The veterinarian will also evaluate his vaccination history (which you also need to take to the appointment) and give him any vaccinations he is lacking.

INTRODUCING YOUR NEW DOG TO OTHER PETS

If you have other pets, part of your pre-adoption evaluation should be to observe how your dog-of-choice interacts with other animals. Ask shelter workers what this dog is like, but also see for yourself. Introduce another shelter resident the dog is not familiar with - with the help of a shelter worker, of course! If you have cat(s), ask a shelter worker to bring out a cat who tolerates dogs. Some shelters will allow you to bring your pets for an introduction, others may require it.

If the potential adoptee has a problem with the type of pet(s) you already have a home, that dog should NOT go home with you, UNLESS you are willing to spend A LOT of time with introductions and supervision, as well as A LOT of training and socialization time. You must also realize that a dog- or cat-aggressive dog MAY NOT ever change!

Once you have established that your adoptee seems to tolerate other animals, you will still have to invest time in introduction and supervision of the new dog and existing pets at home. Introductions should happen in controlled settings. The new dog should be ON LEASH, and your existing pets should also be controlled in some way: cat in carrier (you could be bitten or scratched if you hold the cat for the new dog to meet!), other dog(s) on leash - one at a time. Some raised hackles are normal even in friendly introductions. Keep leashes fairly loose or leave dragging on the ground, but always be ready to pull each dog away from the other should an argument ensue. If a fight starts, NEVER put your hands anywhere near to grab dogs! Instead, throw a blanket over them or use a chair to separate them by wedging in between. These introductions work best when a person handles each animal.

The new dog should NOT be alone in the house with your existing pets until you have carefully monitored and controlled their interactions for a period of time. That time period could be anywhere from a couple days to a month or more. The new dog should be crated when you are not able to supervise. The crate can still be in an area where your existing pets can approach to sniff; however, this also needs to be supervised. Your pets could tease the new one, or the new one could be somewhat cage aggressive/protective and lunge and growl.

With careful planning, preparation and training, adopting a shelter or rescue dog can be one that will work for life.

QUICK CHECKLIST FOR ADOPTIONS
  • DON'T USE YOUR HEART in decisions! Think your choices CAREFULLY through. 
  • Make sure the new adoptee will work in your home - with other pets, men, women, children, WHATEVER and WHOEVER he will encounter in his new life with you. 
  • CAREFULLY research: breed choices, size, coat, etc. 
  • CAREFULLY consider WHY you want a dog, and WHY you want a shelter/rescue dog. After all, the idea is to have adoptions WORK! · Consider WHAT you want to do with this dog: vegetate on the couch, long walks, competition flyball or Frisbee, obedience or agility competition? Use this to help in your decisions. 
  • Do you want all that comes with a puppy? Or would you rather start with a dog that is a little more mature? 
  • Do NOT adopt with the idea that you will change a dog! You will be able to work with what you have, but generally a dog is the way he'll be, UNLESS you plan to invest a lot of time and money in training, with no guarantees. 
  • Do NOT hesitate to engage the help of an experienced behaviorist or trainer to help ease the adoptee's transition into your home and your life. 

Rehoming Your Dog

Whether you are forced to give away a beloved companion due to moving, or you have come to the conclusion that you are ill-equipped to care for a special-needs dog, you can take responsibility to improve its life by finding it an appropriate new home.
Checklist of Homing Needs

Once you have determined that it’s impossible to keep or bring your dog with you, the top priority is to assess your dog’s needs. You may want to write an all-inclusive list of requirements for your dog’s ideal new home without “editing” yourself while you brainstorm. Once you have written all the items you can think of, go through and determine what is non-negotiable for your dog’s unique needs, and write an ad using those top “must-haves”.

Getting Your Dog Ready


Keep in mind that it’s not only what your dog needs, but what prospective adopters will be looking for, so highlight your dog’s best traits in the ad as well. Therefore, make sure that your dog is transition-ready with veterinary care, is spayed or neutered, and freshly groomed.
Advertising

Pre-existing, trusted connections like your friends, neighbors, local veterinarians, and social communities are a good foundation to begin your search. Once you’ve put the word out in these venues, you can also advertise in less familiar places by putting up flyers in local businesses and ads in small and large local publications. Online you can find pet home-matching sites like http://alldog360.blogspot.com/

Interviewing Prospects

You may ask your local pet rescue for the questions they use to screen prospective adopters. By interviewing prospects over the phone first, you can eliminate poor matches.

Once you determine that a prospect is worth meeting, it’s safest and easiest for both parties to find a neutral location to introduce your dog, like a park or pet-friendly coffee shop or café with outdoor seating. If the prospect has children, it is best that they come so you can observe how they get along. If there’s potential, consider conducting a second interview in the prospective adopter’s home so you can see how your dog responds to the environment.

Always listen to your own instincts and don’t fall into the trap of being desperate to rush giving away your dog. Never give your dog away “free to the right person.” Your dog is valuable, so find a reasonable price and stick to your guns.

Transitioning Pet and People


Once you’ve chosen a new caregiver, if your dog has a shyer temperament, you may want them to get as acquainted with the new people as much as possible before saying the final good-bye by having the prospective adopter visit the dog at your home. However, don’t make repeat visits to the adopter’s home — when you leave for good, it could actually be more traumatic for your dog. Usually, you’ll minimize your own grief and your dog’s by making the transition as quickly as possible.
Giving Your Dog Away Due to Behavior Issues

Remember that by adopting a dog to begin with, the dog became your responsibility. Whether you are still in the process of trying to balance and discipline your pet, or you have already come to the conclusion that it’s best to send your dog to a new home, you’ll find some excellent guidance on our Rescue and Resources page
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HOW TO BUY A DOG

 I have organized the following into specific categories for easier reading. However, the order in which this is presented does not necessarily mean that this is the order in which these questions should be asked nor does it signify the importance of one question over another. This is not meant to be a complete list of questions or considerations, just a starting point to get you thinking before making this long term commitment.
I.   Ask yourself "Why do you want a dog?"
     A.   Pet/companion
     B.   Showing 
     C.   Breeding
     D.   All of the above
II.  Learn how to choose the right breed for you
     A.   Read about the breeds that interest you
     B.   Attend a few dog shows and observe the characteristics
          of the breed you have chosen
     C.   Find out what type of grooming or special care this
          breed requires
     D.   Talk to and visit several breeders
          1.   Ask about specific characteristics
          2.   Ask about inherited problems
          3.   Look at adults
          4.   Look at puppies
          5.   Remember: This puppy will be an adult longer than
               it will be a puppy--do you like the adults of this
               breed??
     E.   Always look at more than one litter before deciding on
          a specific puppy (by this I mean visit more than one
          breeder to view two separate litters) this way you have
          some basis for comparison.
     F.   Have you considered rescuing an older dog rather than 
          purchasing a puppy?  Sometimes, an older dog is more 
          appropriate for your household and you work schedule.
III. Questions to ask the breeder

     A.   About the parents & grandparents
          1.   Temperament of the ancestors
               a.   shyness
               b.   viciousness
               c.   hyperactive
               d.   what are they like??
               e.   how are they to live with on a daily basis?
          2.   Known hereditary problems (ask for certification
               that the parents are clear)
               a.   Hip displaysia
               b.   Eye problems
               c.   Thyroid problems
               d.   Bleeding disorders
               e.   others specific to your breed of choice
          3.   Results of prior breedings (if any)
               a.   What type of puppies (mentally and physically)
                    has this dog produced in the past?
               b.   Mental and physical soundness of aunts,
                    uncles, etc.
     B.   About the puppies
          1.   Health record
               a.   What shots have they had
               b.   What shots do they still need
               c.   Have they been wormed
               d.   What type of food are they eating
          2.   Environment they were raised in (home vs. kennel)
          3.   Describe an average day in the puppy's life at age
               6 or 7 weeks. 
          4.   Anticipated temperament of each puppy in this
               litter (it is important to know as much as
               possible about the siblings of your puppy)
          5.   If you are buying a show or breeding quality
               puppy, it is even more important to find out about
               the siblings.
          6.   If you are buying a show or breeding quality be
               certain that the littermates are free of
               hereditary defects (this includes all males having
               both testicles--even if you are buying a bitch
               puppy).
          7.   Which puppy is breeding quality, show quality or
               pet quality (you don't want to get your heart set
               on one puppy then be told that that is a show
               puppy and is not for sale)
          8.   What type of health guarantee does the breeder
               give for a show puppy? a pet puppy?
          9.   Will the breeder take the dog back or assist you
               in placing the dog should you ever decide that you
               cannot keep it?
IV.  Questions the breeder should ask you 

     A.   Why do you want this dog?
     B.   Have you researched this breed and what do you know
          about its character traits?
     C.   Do you have other pets?
     D.   Have you ever owned a dog? One of this breed?
     E.   Were will the dog be kept?  Indoors or outdoors most of
          the time?
     F.   What hours do you work?  Your spouse?
     G.   Do you have children?  What ages?
     H.   Describe a typical week at your house now.
     I.   Describe a typical weekend day at your house now.
     J.   Project a typical week at your house after you get the
          puppy.
     K.   Project a typical weekend at your house after you get
          the puppy.
     L.   Project a typical day once he is an adult.
     M.   Where will the dog go when you go on vacation
     N.   What would you do if you could no longer keep this dog
     O.   To sign a contract stating specific terms and
          agreements of the sale of this puppy.
     P.   Will this dog be spayed or neutered?
     Q.   If you intent to breed this dog, why?
          1.   To show the children the facts of life
          2.   To recuperate the money you are spending to buy a
               purebred dog
          3.   To attempt to produce puppies better than their
               parents
          Note: Answers 1 and 2 are not acceptable reasons for
          breeding.
V.   If you do breed this dog, outline the process you will follow--from choosing the stud to whelping the litter.

     A.   Check for hereditary defects
     B.   Attend shows and ask breeders' recommendations for stud
          choice.
     C.   Shots current before breeding
     D.   Prenatal care, diet of mother, vet care while in whelp,
          etc.
     E.   The whelping
          1.   Where will the litter be whelped (may depend on
               the time of year), indoors? outdoors? the garage?
          2.   Where will you be during this time?
          3.   Alert your vet when she goes into labor (have more
               than one vet available if possible)
     F.   Where will the pups be kept (and until what age)
     G.   What care will the pups receive prior to being sold (at
          what age will they be sent to their new homes)
          1.   Shots
          2.   Worming
          3.   What will they eat (and at what ages)
     H.   How will you sell the puppies
     I.   How will you screen the potential buyers
     J.   What type of follow up will you do once the pups have
          been sold
     K.   Will you offer any guarantees
     L.   How will you arrive at a sales price for the pups
     M.   Will you provide a home for the pups for their ENTIRE
          lifetime (yes, even if they are sold and then returned
          to you for some reason)
VI.  How to evaluate the breeder (not the dogs)

     A.   If the breeder does not ask you most of the above
          questions, maybe you should choose another breeder.
     B.   Do they seem truly interested in your home environment?
     C.   Have they evaluated the litter into show, pet, or
          breeding stock?
     D.   Have they priced the litter based upon their expenses
          for the litter or upon their honest evaluation of the
          quality of the puppies?
     E.   Are the puppies in a healthy environment?
     F.   How are the adults kept?  Do they receive adequate
          attention, socialization, nutrition?
     G.   Speak to several breeders, if most breeders are telling
          you one thing and one does not, either he is ignorant
          of the fact or he does not care.  Neither situation is
          good.  If they cannot give you a satisfactory answer
          when you directly ask them about this point, choose
          another breeder to buy your puppy from.
     H.   Do you get the feeling that once you walk out the door
          with the puppy, you are on your own?  or do you feel
          that you could call this breeder for help at any time
          in the puppy's life?
VII. How to choose your puppy once you have chosen the breeder

     you wish to work with.
     A.   Male vs. Female
     B.   What type of adult do you want
          1.   Active vs docile
          2.   Show vs. pet
          3.   Will the dog live primarily indoors or outdoors
     C.   Ask the breeder to project a what puppy's temperament
          will be like as an adult 
     D.   Evaluate temperament first as the dog will be your pet
          first and foremost.  He cannot be anything else unless
          he is a good pet.  If you cannot enjoy living with the
          dog, why have it?  We choose to have a dog--it should
          be a pleasure not a burden.
     E.   Coat color, markings and eye color should be the last
          consideration after you have decided on the type of
          temperament you can live with and which sex you prefer. 
          If you are adamant about specific color or markings,
          wait until they are on the puppy with the appropriate
          temperament for you.
     F.   If you are buying a show puppy, attend enough shows,
          read enough books to have a basic idea of what you want
          in a show dog then ask the breeder to help project what
          each puppy may turn out like as an adult.  REMEMBER: 
          No one knows for sure, it is just an educated guess at
          best!
     G.   If you have questions or concerns about your puppy
          (behavior, physical development, etc.) at any time
          after your purchase--call the breeder immediately. 
          Don't be afraid to ask for help!  It could save you a
          lot of heartache in the long run.
     H.   Remember, by purchasing this puppy, you are committing
          to its care for the rest of its life.  But, in the
          event that you cannot keep it as you had planned, call
          the breeder immediately.  A good breeder always wants
          to know where their pups are.  They will also help you
          place the dog or approve a new home if you have lined
          up.
     I.   It is very important that you maintain contact with the
          breeder of your puppy.  If you do not feel comfortable
          doing that, perhaps you chose the wrong breeder to
          purchase a puppy from.  You buy the breeder as well as
          the puppy so try to be sure you get a good one of each!!!

my vet just gave my dog 5 times the usual dosage of steriods for an ear infection.Is he under any kind of danger ?

my vet just gave my dog 5 times the usual dosage of steriods for an ear infection.Is he under any kind of danger ?

I assume they were the most common type used.



Is it Prednizone? If your unsure on the dose, you can call another vet for a second opinion. Which is what I would do. The dose might depend on the weight of the dog. One time I called a pharmacist for drug interactions for my dog because I was unsure on what my vet prescribed. They were very helpful. Maybe you could also try that. Most times, vets, Dr's and pharmacists want to help. Also, I don't know what kind

Some popular Questions About Dogs

Not sure why your furry friend is always sniffing everything? Azula answers all of your burning pet questions.


Why can’t dogs eat chocolate?


—Hannah

Dogs can’t eat chocolate for the same reason parrots like me can’t eat chocolate, Hannah—our bodies don’t know how to digest it. (Bummer, huh?) Chocolate contains something called Theobromine. Humans can digest it no problem, but not dogs. Theobromine can make them puke, get diarrhea, have seizures or worse. Eek!

Your dog doesn’t know that, though, and might still think chocolate looks pretty tasty, so make sure to keep it out of his reach. And next time you indulge in chocolaty goodness, don’t share with your pet—no matter how much he begs!

Oh, and before I forget: If you think your pet is sick from eating chocolate (or eating something else), ask a parent to call your veterinarian, or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.



I heard that when dogs wag their tails, it doesn't always mean they are happy. For example, if a dog is feeling aggressive, does the wagging look different than when he’s happy?


—Bethany

What you heard is right, Bethany! Dogs wag their tails to express many feelings. An aggressive dog might hold his tail high and stiffly wag it back and forth, which is called “flagging,” while a happy dog might just gently wag his tail from side to side.

But it’s important to look at the whole dog to figure out what he’s trying to tell you. What are his ears saying? What about his face? Instead of talking, dogs use their whole bodies to communicate.


Do dogs really sweat through their paws?


—Troy

I see you know your dogs, Troy! Most people think dogs can’t sweat at all, but man’s best friend really does sweat through his footpads. Paw sweating is one of the ways dogs keep cool on a hot summer day, but it’s not the most important. Dogs can also pant to cool down, and they have some other tools in their bodies to beat the heat as well.

Just like you, your dog needs help to stay cool sometimes. Dogs like sitting in the air conditioning when the mercury hits 100, too, and I bet you’d both enjoy ice cubes in your summertime beverages—even though you probably wouldn’t want to drinkyours from a bowl on the floor.


Can dogs control when they wag their tails, or does it happen automatically?


—Lisa

Wow, Lisa, I’m impressed! That’s a very smart question to ask. It proved too hard for this humble parrot, so I got some help from ASPCA expert Dr. Stephen Zawistowski. (You can call him “Dr. Z”—we do!) Here’s what he had to say:

“Think of tail wagging like a smile. Sometimes you smile without knowing, and sometimes you can make yourself smile. I think dogs are the same with their tails. Sometimes it just happens, and other times it seems like they ‘think’ about it.”

That’s the word from the expert. Keep asking questions, and you could be an animal expert one day, too!


Do I need to brush my dog’s teeth?


—Richard

That depends, Richard—does he have dog breath?? But seriously, your dog can get tooth and gum disease just like you can, and brushing his teeth will help keep him healthy. But instead of toothpaste you buy at the drugstore, dogs need special dog toothpaste, in flavors like peanut butter and meat. (Gross to us, delicious to them!) And you can't just get a brush and start scrubbing—you need a special technique to brush your dog's teeth.

So next time you take your pet for a check-up, have the vet show you and your parents how to brush your dog's teeth. He'll have gleaming chompers in no time!


My dog is a breed—sighthound—that chases. I know it was bred into this breed so long ago that it is definitely hardwired in. When she tries to chase humans (e.g., bikers, joggers or cross-country skiers) WHY is she doing it? Is it out of fear, aggression, protection, her take on her job, or some kind of combination?


—Rebecca

Great question, Rebecca! It’s hard to say what’s going on in the minds of our dogs sometimes! But your fourth guess was right—your dog isn’t scared or angry, she’s just been bred to think that chasing things is her job. The drive to chase ANYTHING moving quickly is so much part of her doggie brain that she just can’t help herself. She does it because that’s what sighthounds—like Greyhounds, Whippets, Borzois and Basenjis—do best!

As you know, Rebecca, sighthounds have been around for thousands of years (they even lived with the people who invented the wheel—not kidding). They were bred to use their vision to hunt fast-moving things…and then to chase those things as fast as possible. So celebrate your pup’s special skill, and keep her on a leash when you’re on a walk!


Why do dogs have tails? 


—Jonathan

Lots of us animals have tails—dogs, cats, iguanas, monkeys, parrots—so the better question, Jonathan, is why don’t you??

Dogs use tails for lots of different stuff, like for balance and to change direction when they’re swimming (like a rudder on a boat). Some bushy-tailed dogs, like Huskies and Samoyeds, curl up into a ball to sleep and use their tails to keep their noses warm!

But the coolest thing dogs’ tails do is help them communicate, both with other dogs and people. Dogs wag their tails and hold them high or low to express their mood. If you knew your dog was happy to see you because he wagged his tail quickly, then your dog communicated with you using his tail!


Ew!!!! My dog rolled in something nasty! It is disgusting!! Why do dogs roll around in dead stuff? 


—Olivia

Because it’s easier to roll around in dead stuff than alive stuff?

Just kidding! Actually, Olivia, rolling around in stuff that makes people want to barf—be it dead squirrels, poop or rotting garbage—is an instinct that comes from dogs’ wolf ancestors. Scientists don’t know for sure why dogs have that instinct, but they have a few ideas.

The most popular theory is that dogs roll around in the yucky stuff to cover up their natural smell, giving them camouflage and helping them be sneakier hunters. Another idea is that dogs are putting the funky smell on their bodies so they can alert other dogs to what they found. (When other dogs sniff your dog, they’ll get the exciting news that there’s a dead animal nearby.) Still a third idea is that dogs love to shimmy on gross things to claim them as their own—they don’t want any other dogs getting in on that prime piece of grossness.

So there you have it. Now, go give your dog a bath! He smells terrible!


I want to become an animal cop when I grow up. What college should I go to? 


—Cameron, 11

An animal cop!? That’s awesome, Cameron. We love hearing from peeps of all ages who want to help fight animal cruelty. I got the answer to your question straight from the horse’s mouth. Well, actually, I got it straight from the animal cop’s mouth!

ASPCA Special Agent Kristi Adams told me that it’s less about what college you go to and more about what courses you take. Says Agent Adams, “If you really want to get involved in humane law enforcement, it is good to take a few criminal justice classes or animal behavior classes.”

She also recommends that you volunteer or work at a veterinary office, animal shelter or law enforcement establishment. “But most importantly,” says Agent Adams, “you must have compassion and respect for animals.”


Why do dogs eat so fast? 


—Jasmine

Let me just wolf down my breakfast so I can begin researching your question. Just kidding, Jasmine—but that expression is no joke!

You know how sometimes you’re stuffed at dinner and you just can’t eat those last few French fries? Well, it’s not like that for most dogs. Dogs are evolved from wolves, who live in the wild and eat as much as they can, whenever they can. If they don’t gobble their food quickly, other animals might take it—and who knows when they’ll get a chance to eat again?

Nowadays, some pet dogs take their time when they eat—they know there’s no threat lurking, and they know they get regular food and treats. Still, many dogs take after their wild ancestors, and chow down big time at mealtime.


What should I do if I see an animal being abused? 


—La’Tayra, 10

Great question, La’Tayra. If you see someone hurting an animal, it's important to get help fast! Don't try to help the animal yourself, but be sure to tell an adult you trust. Together, you and an adult can call the police or your local animal shelter. As the ASPCA animal cops know, good back-up is essential!

It’s also a smart idea to write down everything you see happen, who was involved, the date of the incident and where it took place.


If your dog runs away, should you spank him on the bottom? 



—Adrian

Ouch! The answer is no way, Adrian. No one likes to get spanked, not even dogs. Besides, we know that hitting animals is wrong, and that they feel pain just like you humans do. Some people will try to punish their dogs by using cruel types of discipline, like hitting. But this never works. Dogs need kindness and patience to learn. But more importantly, dogs need their human families to keep them safe. That includes keeping dogs safe inside with the front door closed, or safe in the backyard. It's important for a dog to be loved and protected by his family. Being hurt by someone you love or trust is just no fun.


Why do cats and dogs fight whenever they see each other? 


—Mary Jane, 10

Well, Mary Jane, have you ever heard the phrase “fighting like cats and dogs?” That’s a well-known expression for a reason! The truth is, cats and dogs fight simply because they don’t speak the same language. For example, cats tend to lash their tails when they’re mad, but dogs growl. And while cats purr when they’re happy, dogs wag their tails. So, there are really a lot of mixed signals going on!

The good news is, once they’re familiar with each other, cats and dogs can learn to talk to each other—especially if they’re introduced when they’re young. And dogs and cats can even become the best of friends—playing together, greeting each other nose-to-nose and even sharing the same water bowl!


Hey ho! Ho hey! I have a special tweet for you this week! That's right, ASPCA Special Agent Kristi Adams is in the house—the bird house, that is—and she's here to answer a few of your questions about what it's like to be an ASPCA Humane Law Enforcement agent. 



Thanks, Agent Adams, for all you to do rescue animals from abuse—and for taking the time to answer all our questions!


We really love our small dog, but the problem we are having is his HAIR. He is the worst shedder ever! What can I do? 


—Mary

Talk about having bad hair day, Mary! Seriously, I’m glad you have such a great little dog! Some dogs were built to shed, and that’s just the way they are—but sometimes, dogs can shed a lot more than they should if they’re sick or if something is wrong with their skin.

So first, please make sure your little guy is healthy by taking him to see his veterinarian. If the vet says your furball is fine, you are going to have to stock up on lint rollers and find ways to cope with his major shedding.

One thing that will help is for you to brush him a lot—every day, if you can. A lot of his dead hair, which was going to come out anyway all over your house, will come out in the brush instead! If you want even less of a mess, have your daily brushing sessions outside. Your dog will look great and you’ll get some extra exercise—and lots of dogs loooove being brushed, so it’s a fun way for you to bond with your doggie. Good luck, and we hope the situation doesn’t get too hairy!


How do dogs learn to swim? 


—Rebecca, 12

It totally depends on the dog, Rebecca. Some pooches just run into the water and instinctively know how to kick their legs in order to stay afloat. Other dogs are scared of the water, but they may learn to like if it they are introduced gently to warm, comfortable water in a bathtub. But most dogs do what most human beings do when they first hit the water—the doggie paddle! P.S. If you ever see a dog doing the butterfly stroke, let us know!


Why do beagles bark so much more than other breeds? 


- Carrie, 12

Woof! Yap! Bow wow! Arooooo! Well, it’s true that beagles certainly aren’t shy, Carrie. They’re a friendly and alert breed of dog, and because they were bred to hunt, they like a lot of stimulation. We’ve heard about beagles who will bark if they’re left alone for too long and get bored. Like many other dogs, they may also bark at strangers in the house and at other animals passing by.

To find out more, let’s explore the boisterous world of beagle barks. Beagles have different barks, and some can get very loud. Some beagles are big on howling, because their ancestors would howl loudly to let hunters know they had caught their prey. Beagles will also bay—a kind of half-howl—when they catch the scent of something that interests them.

If you have a beagle and you’d like to teach him not to express himself quite so loudly, you can train him. Just make sure to be patient, and don’t give up. It might take him a few months for a beagle to understand what it means when you say “Quiet!” 


Why do dogs poop worms? It’s GROSS!!! 



- Evelyn, 8

Well, Evelyn, it is pretty yucky when you see worms in a dog’s poop. But it actually is a very important clue that either a dog needs medicine to get rid of the worms (also called internal parasites, if you want to get technical) or that he is already taking medicine to get rid of worms, and it is working.

There are different kinds of worms, and they all look different. Some are long, and some are very short—but none of them are healthy for dogs or humans! You should never touch a dog’s poop, especially if there are worms in it, because they can get you sick. 
We hope that answers your question, Evelyn. And we hope that all of the dogs you meet are happy and healthy!

P.S. How about a joke to lighten things up?

Q. Is there anything worse than finding a worm in an apple?

A. Finding half a worm!


Do dogs poop every day and every night? 


―Eleanor

Great question, Eleanor! No one loves pooping more than dogs―except maybe us parrots!

But seriously, the average healthy dog poops between one and three times a day. How often a dog poops depends on his age, his lifestyle, and the amount of food he eats and how good the food is. High-quality food contains less “filler” than low-quality food, so less food is wasted...or should we say, pooped?!

However, it’s more important for pup parents to pay attention to the “state” of the poop than how many poops are pooped. Unhealthy-looking poop can be a sign of a sick pup!

Wow, I’m totally pooped from answering this question!

Why do dogs eat poop? 

―Lizzy, 11

Well, we'll just have to dig right into this one, huh?

Gross as it sounds (and smells!), it's not unusual for companion canines to eat poop—their own, the family cat's, or even another dog's. Scientists used to think that dogs who ate poop were lacking an important nutrient in their diet, but now experts believe that poop munching is just a normal doggie thing to do.

Before they were domesticated, or bred to live in homes with humans, companion canines were scavengers. They never knew where their next meal was coming from, so they'd eat whenever they found food—and whatever they found (and boy, do we mean whatever). So if you see a dog wolfing down something unsavory (something unsavory like poop, that is), he's just acting like his wild ancestors would.

But the debate on poop eating in pooches hasn't been completely settled. Some animal behaviorists think it could be a way to get attention, or even something that a dog might do if he's bored or anxious. If your dog is a poop eater, the whole family should make an effort to prevent him from doing so—he could get sick from parasites or other diseases that could be found in his favorite snack!


How many babies can a dog have? 


―Asmine, 8

An average-sized dog will give birth to 5 to 7 puppies at a time. Smaller dogs, such as miniature poodles or Pekingese, have smaller litters of 2 to 4 puppies. And some breeds, especially Labrador retrievers, can have 15 or more offspring in a litter.

How’s that for an answer to your “pup” quiz?!


Is it true that dogs see only in black and white? 


―Chelsea

Nope—we think! Scientists believe that canines can see part of the range of colors in the visible spectrum. Humans like you can see all the colors—red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet—but dogs probably see mostly in shades of yellow and blue. But remember, this is only a THEORY, since we can't really find out if a color appears the same way to dogs as it does to people.


Why do dogs bark? 


―Miguel

They don't call them BOW WOWS for nothing, Miguel! Dogs bark for many reasons. It's their way of saying, "Hey, I'm here! Come over and see me!" to their human families and other pooch pals. Dogs also bark to warn their owners about intruders on their turf--and to scare these intruders away.

Canines bark to get attention, too. When you are watching your favorite TV show, has your dog ever parked himself in front of you and went "WOOF! WOOF! WOOF!" until you threw his tennis ball?


Why does my dog always sniff everything—even people’s butts? 


—Alexis, 11

Great question, Alexis! And the answer is simple—your dog is simply trying to catch up on the news!

You can surf the Web or watch TV for the latest information, but dogs find out what’s going on with the world through their noses. They have 25 times more smell receptors than human beings do, and with special supersonic sniffing cells hidden deep in their noses, they can pretty much out-smell you in any situation. (Don’t feel bad, though--when it comes to some smells, that’s not always a good thing! Case in point: a pair of socks worn last week in gym class…)

Seriously, a dog can sniff out one drop of blood in five quarts of water. And if you see a dog sniffing a clean sidewalk, he’s probably figuring out what other pooches have been in the neighborhood recently, or what kind of sandwich someone dropped a few days earlier.


What's the most popular dog in the world? 


—Michaela

No contest here! The title goes to the mixed-breed dog—otherwise known as the mutt. If you have a mixed-breed dog, you're lucky—you've got a real one-of-a-kind pet. There can be no other dog who looks exactly like her!

If you were wondering about specific breeds, the most popular (or should we say PUPular?!) canine in the United States is the Labrador retriever. 

My dog is three. How old is that in people's years? 
—Catherine

Dogs grow a lot in their first 2 years—so much that each year equals 12 people years! A dog of 12 months is just entering the teen scene, and by the end of the second year he's a young adult at 24. Starting with the third year, every dog year equals 4 people years. Your pooch is 28 in human years. Do you know how old you are in dog years?


Whenever it rains, my dog gets scared and goes into the tub. Why does she do that? 


—Lauren

Your dog’s not the only scaredy cat, Lauren! A lot of pooches don’t like rain, especially when it comes with strong wind, lightning and thunder.

I checked with the ASPCA's Carmen Buitrago, a certified dog trainer who studies why dogs do the things they do, and she says it’s not all that uncommon for dogs to jump in the tub during storms. “We actually don’t know why they do that, but some people think that it’s because there’s static build-up in the air during a storm—and dogs try to ground themselves near the pipes in toilets or bathtubs,” says Buitrago. It could also just be that the tub is small and snug, and makes your dog feel more comfortable!

Whatever the reason, our doggie expert says you should make sure your pup can get to the tub to comfort herself during storms. You could also play the radio or TV at a loud volume to mask the noise of the storm.


Why do dogs have black lips? 


―Nathan, 10

As you have noticed, Nathan, some breeds of dog have black skin around their mouths, on their noses and on their eye rims. Skin gets its color from something the body produces called pigment—which has nothing to do with pigs!

Darker skin is one way that evolution protects animals from the sun, because darker noses don’t sunburn as easily as lighter ones. So in the beginning, certain dogs simply evolved to have black lips—probably dogs who lived in really sunny places.

So that’s how it started, but in the last hundred years or so, doggy features—including black lips and noses—have probably been influenced more by people than by nature. Humans have taken a big interest in breeding dogs for beauty. Certain breeds of dogs who look good with black lips will be more likely to be chosen by humans to have puppies, thereby passing their black lips on to future generations.


Why does my dog drool? 


―Stefanie

Well, Stefanie, it's not because he has bad table manners. Your pooch uses his saliva to make his food wet and mushy and easier to swallow; it also aids in digestion, too. He's so good at making the ooey-gooey stuff that he can whip up a bunch even when he's just thinking about eating, like if he sees you opening a can or bag of dog food.

Sometimes, though, he produces so much saliva that he can't keep it all in his mouth—and he's no fool, he's gotta drool! Dogs with shortened faces, like bulldogs, tend to drool more 'cause there's less room in their mouths to hold it all. And bow-wows with big lips are big drippers, too.


What kind of toys do dogs like? 


—Sandul, 11

When it comes to toys, Sandul, dogs are like people—everybody has a favorite! Some dogs love stuffed animals, while others prefer to toss around a tennis ball all day, every day. Size matters, too—some dogs prefer teeny, tiny toys and really enjoy batting them like a cat would, while other dogs feel that bigger is better, and get very excited about toys they can’t even fit in their mouths. Ever seen a doggie carrying around a basketball?!

A lot of dogs like to run around like crazy while they play. These dogs love balls, Frisbees and anything you can throw far for them. Then there there are dogs who go bonkers for noisy, squeaky toys, rope toys, puzzle toys and bouncy toys—and then others who turn up their noses at toys entirely!

You just never know what a dog is going to like to play with. Some are crazy about chewing, so the best toys for these pups are safe, hard toys made especially for dogs like them. In fact, it’s important to make sure that all the toys you give your pets are made specifically for them. Since dogs play with their mouths, their toys need to be made extra strong so they don’t get hurt or swallow little pieces that might splinter off. Keep an eye on your dog’s toys and throw them away when they get worn out. Your dog won’t mind, because that just means he gets a new one!


Why do dogs throw up and then eat it? 


—Brittany

Great question, Brittany, but I’m glad I got your email before lunch! Most veterinarians aren’t sure why dogs eat their own throw up, but scientists do have one theory. When dogs lived in the wild, long before they started living with human families in houses, they didn’t like to leave any traces behind that would allow predators or hunters to find them. So they made sure not to leave any trace behind. They covered up their pee and poop with dirt. And if they threw up, they had to hide it somehow—so they ate it.

This is only one theory, Brittany. There may be another answer out there that we don’t know about, but because so many dogs do this, many people just accept it as doggie behavior.


How old is the oldest dog? 


—Shelby, 10

Great timing, Shelby—because, Chanel, the world’s oldest living dog, just celebrated her 21st birthday in May 2009! Officially recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records, Chanel is a cream-colored dachshund mix who lives on Long Island, NY, and wears special goggles to protect her eyes from the sun.

Now, 21 may not seem that old to you, but dogs age differently than humans do. Dogs grow a lot in their first 2 years—so much that each year equals 12 people years! Starting with the third year, every dog year equals 4 people years. When you do the math, Chanel’s age is equal to 100 people years!

P.S. Wondering how Chanel celebrated her big day? She took a trip to the doggy spa with her best buddies, of course!


Why do dogs always lick their noses? 


—Sarah, 12

Because they never remember to carry tissues?!

OK, well, maybe not! That’s actually a great question, Sarah. Dogs use body language to tell us how they are feeling, just like you humans do. You may see a person scratching his head and know that he is confused. Or you may see someone biting her fingernails and know that she is nervous. When a dog licks his nose, it may mean he is feeling a little stressed out.

Scientists who study why dogs act the way they do call this kind of behavior a calming signal. It’s a dog’s way of telling other dogs and people that he may be feeling a bit anxious, but he doesn’t want to take any other action, like growling or fighting. He might lick his nose when he’s deciding whether or not to go up to a dog or person he doesn’t know, or he might lick his nose if he’s getting used to a new place or situation. He’s feeling stressed, but he’s working it out calmly.

Of course, if this happens just after he’s eaten, he may just be trying to get that last bit of lunch off his nose!

Why do dogs eat so fast? 


—Jasmine

Let me just wolf down my breakfast so I can begin researching your question. Just kidding, Jasmine—but that expression is no joke!

You know how sometimes you’re stuffed at dinner and you just can’t eat those last few French fries? Well, it’s not like that for most dogs. Dogs are evolved from wolves, who live in the wild and eat as much as they can, whenever they can. If they don’t gobble their food quickly, other animals might take it—and who knows when they’ll get a chance to eat again?

Nowadays, some pet dogs take their time when they eat—they know there’s no threat lurking, and they know they get regular food and treats. Still, many dogs take after their wild ancestors, and chow down big time at mealtime.

Can dogs smell odors better than people? 



—TooBusyB

Great question, TooBusyB! To answer it, let me put it this way…don’t even think about winning the “Ewww…What’s That Smell?” contest if pooches are allowed to enter!

Some scientists say that dogs can identify smells anywhere from 100 to 1,000 times better than you humans can. You have 5 million scent-detecting cells in your nose. Sounds like a lot, right? Well, a bloodhound has…ahem..300 million of these supersonic sniffing cells!

Dogs don’t use just their noses to detect odors. Every canine has a tiny duct in his mouth that leads to a special gland called the Jacobson’s organ. This organ allows him to “taste” certain odors.

If you see your dog scrunching up his face, lifting his upper lip and opening his mouth (and maybe even drooling!) he is probably using his Jacobson’s organ to get more info about a particular smell. (Unfortunately, a lot of times the smell turns out to be stinky garbage and/

or another dog’s poop!)
—Christin

Believe it or not, Christin, I'm not going to make any silly comments about how your pooch probably just needs a new pair (make that 2!) of shoes. I'm sorry she's being destructive. I talked to one of our certified pet dog trainers at the ASPCA Animal Behavior Center, and she told me some things you can try to change your dog's behavior:

1. Make sure your dog has plenty of her own things to chew on. Dogs like yours often enjoy getting their meals served in special toys made to hold food. They have to work to get their dinner, and that's good exercise for their bodies AND brains!


2. It can really help to give your dog at least 20 minutes of running exercise every day. Twice a day would be even better! We're not talking just walking-you'll need to have her play fetch, take her to the dog park or teach her to go jogging!


3. You can spray the things you don't want your dog to chew with a product like Bitter Apple, which you can find at pet stores. There are other things you can do to help prevent destructive chewing, and you can 

4. Go to school! (We know you're already in school-we mean your dog!) You and your family could take your dog to an obedience class, where she'd learn good manners. (And it's kinda fun, too, even if I do say so myself!)

Good luck! And just think, with all this experience, you may be a shoe-in for a career as a dog trainer!

Dog Adoption Guide

Dog adoption is a wonderful thing. There are millions of pets in shelters and rescues waiting for forever homes. By adopting a dog, you can help homeless pets and set a great example for others. Dog adoption is not right for everyone, and it is not something you should enter into lightly. Getting a dog is major decision that will affect your life for many years. If you have decided that dog adoption is for you, great news! Bringing an adopted dog into your home should be a rewarding experience for you and your family. Before you look for your future best friend, arm yourself with the knowledge to navigate the world of dog adoption and make the best decision possible.

What Kind of Dog?If you have decided on dog adoption, you may have your heart set on one specific breed. It is possible to adopt purebred dogs from shelters and rescues if you plan ahead. However, if you are not set on a certain breed, you should still have an idea of the type of dog you want. Consider age, size, grooming needs, health issues and activity level. Have your desires in mind before you go looking. Better yet, make a list of dog features broken down into three areas: what you absolutely need in a dog, what you'd like in a dog (but can live without), and what is not acceptable. This way, when you get out there and see all those cute faces, you will know where to begin.

Where to AdoptYou can adopt a dog from an animal shelter, a general rescue group, or a breed-specific rescue group. The internet is a great way to find dogs for adoption in your area, but be careful to visit reliable sites. Go to the official websites of shelters and rescues or search a reputable site like Petfinder.com, where many rescue groups and shelters list their available dogs. If you want to go out and meet some dogs, contact groups in advance to find out if they hold special adoption days. Learn their hours of operation so you can allow yourself time to spend with the dogs and talk to staff.

Research shelters and rescues before visiting. The organization should have a good reputation and ideally be not-for-profit. The adoption fee should be reasonable ($100-$200 give or take), and it should go to benefit the organization and pay for the expenses of that dog. Very high fees (over $300) are suspicious. The facility should be clean and safe, and the dogs well cared for. Adults should be spayed or neutered. You should be able to tour the facility, see all dogs, and talk with staff or volunteers.

Unfortunately, some irresponsible groups operate under the guise of shelter or rescue, but are actually unethical or illegal businesses. Make sure you do not end up "adopting" from a puppy mill or similar operation. If something does not feel right, ask about it. If you still feel suspicious or uneasy, you should leave. As much as you may want to "rescue" a dog from poor conditions, purchasing the dog will only support them. Instead, contact your local authorities if you suspect abuse, neglect or other inhumane conditions.

Purchasing a dog from a pet store is not adoption, and it is not recommended. Sadly, these dogs may come from puppy mills, something you do not want to support. If you want a purebred dog and do not wish to go through a breed rescue group, you should find an experienced breeder.
Picking the OneSome say that when you find the right dog, you just know. This is not always the case. You may fall in love with more than one dog and be faced with a decision. Perhaps none of the dogs you met were for you. It's alright - you do not have to choose that day. After all, this is your new best friend. You may be spending the next 12-15 years together. You want it to be right, so sleep on it. You can always go back another day. If the dog you wanted is not there, maybe it was meant to be. The serious commitment of dog ownership should not begin with uncertainty.
The Adoption ProcessCongratulations! You have found your new dog. Now it's time for the formalities. Most organizations require an application before you can adopt. This is to prevent pets from ending up in the wrong hands. While it may seem like an interrogation, these groups have policies in place for a reason. Fortunately, most people have no trouble getting approved. Some groups require a waiting period before taking your new dog home, possibly due to a medical procedure that was done. Some dogs can have a waiting list, so ask questions up front.

Find out what the adoption fee includes (vaccines, spay/neuter, etc). Before signing the contract, learn what is expected of you and what the group will do to assist you. If the dog is too young to be spayed or neutered, the contract will require you to have this done in the future. Also find out what happens if you cannot keep the dog. Most organizations ask that you return the dog to them if you can no longer care for it (not give it away to someone else). Find out what is known about the dog's history and what health issues, if any, were noted while the dog was in their care.
Coming HomeGreat news! You have a new companion. What now? At the time of adoption, you may have received a kit or packet of some type that offers advice about caring for your new dog, so refer to this first. They may have provided a food sample and other supplies, but plan to go out and get some basic dog gear. Next, you should puppy-proof the house, even for an adult dog (in case he is extra curious). Find a veterinarian and bring your new dog in for a wellness exam as soon as possible. In the beginning, your dog will be adjusting to his new environment. Sights, sounds and smells will be unique and maybe even a bit scary. Depending on your dog's background, the concept of life in a house may be completely foreign. Be patient and try to make your home a positive environment for your dog. You may need to separate him from other pets at first. As he adjusts, you can gradually begin to work on training, bonding and preparing for your life together.

How do I find something on About Dogs?

Question: How do I find something on About Dogs?

Answer: Sometime navigating this site can be pretty confusing. Luckily, there are a few easy ways to find whatever you are looking for.

The fastest method is the Search box located in the top, right-hand corner, inside the dark grey bar. Type in what you are looking for and you should be able to find it quickly in the results.

About Dogs also has a very extensive A to Z site map located here. However the pages are listed by title, and can sometimes be confusing if you are not sure what you are looking for.

Some of the main areas of About Dogs are :
  • Dog Breed Index
  • Dog Rescue Listings
  • Breed Club Listings
  • Photo Gallery
  • Glossary
  • Site Map
  • Article Archives

These pages are always updated, and if what you are looking for is not available when you first check, be sure to check again in a week, and it may be there.

You can also join us on the Dog Park Forum, where many dog lovers and dog experts gather to chat about our favourite species and share knowledge. You can browse the discussions as a Guest, or you can join to become an About Member here: http://alldog360.blogspot.com, and post any questions you might have. Joining is free and easy.

10 Best Hunting Dog Breeds

Every avid hunter needs a companion to help him find game, retrieve game, and keep his hunter company. There are many AKC registered dog breeds for hunting. If you are looking for a hunting dog, consider one of these best hunting dog breeds.

Brittany

The Brittany is a bird hunting dog. It is both a pointer and a retriever. Males and females both grow to between 30 and 40 pounds. The Brittany requires a great deal of exercise. It is a highly social dog that needs a lot of attention from its owner. They require very little grooming.

Labrador Retriever

Labrador Retrievers are popular family dogs, but they are also an excellent hunting dog breed. They are water retrievers and are experts at duck hunting. Male labs grow to between 65 and 80 pounds. Females grow to between 55 and 70 pounds. Labs are devoted and obedient, making them easy to train and one of the best hunting dog breeds. Labs need weekly grooming.

Vizsula

Vizsulas are fairly rare in the United States. Vizsulas are bird dogs that originated in Hungary. They are pointers and are used in pointing field trials. Males and females both grow to between 45 and 65 pounds. The Vizsula is an energetic hunting dog breed that requires a great deal of exercise. They are runners and must be allowed to run every day. Grooming is minimal for Vizsulas.

German Shorthaired Pointer

The German Shorthaired Pointer is another bird hunting dog breed. As their name implies, they are bred to be pointers. Males are between 55 and 70 pounds. Females are between 45 and 60 pounds. As with other breeds of bird dogs, the German Shorthaired Pointer needs plenty of exercise. An occasional brushing is all the German Shorthaired Pointer needs to be well groomed.

Golden Retriever

Another highly popular dog breed is the Golden Retriever. Like Labrador Retrievers, they are great dogs to have along on a duck hunt. Males are between 65 and 75 pounds. Females are between 55 and 65 pounds. They are obedient and easy to train. Both the mind and body of a Golden Retriever needs exercise, as they are highly intelligent dogs. The Golden Retriever's coat should be brushed twice a week.

Black and Tan Coonhound

The Black and Tan Coonhound is used to hunt raccoons. They are members of the hound group. Males and females are both between 55 and 75 pounds. The Black and Tan Coonhound is a mellow hunting dog breed. Once its nose picks up a scent, it can be hard to get it to leave the trail. They drool a bit, so their faces will need to be wiped. The Black and Tan Coonhound's coat requires only basic brushing.

Beagle

Beagles are used for rabbit hunting. Their noses can pick up the scent of a rabbit and trail it for the hunter. Males and females grow to between 18 and 30 pounds. Beagles are loving and good family dogs. They tend to wander off if they are outside and pick up a scent, so they need to be in a yard with a fence. A beagles coat does not require much maintenance.

Weimaraner

The beautiful gray Weimeraner is a pointer. Weimeraners love to run and need plenty of exercise. They grow to between 55 and 90 pounds. Weimaraners are a highly social hunting dog breed. The only grooming this hunting dog breed requires is an occasional brushing.

Pointer

Pointers are, obviously, pointers. This is a bird hunting dog breed. Males are between 55 and 75 pounds. Females range from 45 to 65 pounds. Pointers have a great deal of stamina, which will keep them hunting for hours. This means they need a lot of exercise. Like most bird dogs, Pointers only require minimal grooming.

Chesapeake Bay Retriever

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a water retriever. Thanks to its coat, this hunting dog breed can dive into icy waters to retrieve game. These hunting dogs grow to between 65 and 80 pounds for males and 55 to 70 pounds for females. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever, or "Chessie", needs daily exercise. A simple weekly brushing will keep this breed well groomed.

Top 10 Badass Guard Dogs

In the last decade the pitbull was seen as the badest, meanest breed of dog. Wrong! There are dogs that will wipe the floor with any breed of pitbull you can get. But that’s not the point here. A 30 kgs pitbull can be easily put down by a man who doesn’t fear dogs… but how about a 100 kg Caucasian Shepherd? So, if you want your home defended, here is a list of the Top 10 Badass guard dogs.

10. The German Shepherd


This breed has a personality marked by direct, fearless willingness to protect human children. The dog must be approachable, quietly standing its ground and showing confidence and willingness to meet overtures without itself making them. It is poised, but when the occasion demands, eager and alert; both fit and willing to serve in its capacity as a companion and watchdog.

9. Doberman Pinscher


Doberman Pinschers are, in general, a gentle, loyal, loving, and highly intelligent breed. Although there is variation in temperament, a typical pet Doberman attacks only if it believes that it, its property, or its family are in danger. According to the US Centers for Disease Control, the Doberman Pinscher is less frequently involved in attacks on humans resulting in fatalities than several other dog breeds such as pit bulls, because they can be trained to restrain an unwelcome intruder but not kill him. The breed was used extensively by the U.S. Marines in World War II, and 25 Marine War Dogs died in the Battle of Guam in 1944: there is a memorial in Guam in honor of these Doberman Pinschers

8. Rottweiler


In the hands of a responsible owner, a well-trained and socialized Rottweiler can be a reliable, alert dog and a loving companion. However, any poorly trained dog can become a danger in the wrong circumstances. The Rottweiler is a steady dog with a self-assured nature, but early socialization and exposure to as many new people, animals, and situations as possible are very important in developing these qualities. The Rottweiler also has a natural tendency to assert dominance if not properly trained. Rottweilers’ large size and strength make this an important point to consider: an untrained, poorly trained, or abused Rottweiler can learn to be extremely aggressive and destructive.

7. Pyrenean Mountain Dog


The Great Pyrenees (Pyrenean Mountain Dog) is a capable and imposing guardian, devoted to his family, and very wary of strangers. Males weigh in at about 100-160 pounds (45-73 kilograms), and when not provoked it is calm and somewhat serious. Courageous, very loyal, and obedient, devoted to family even if self-sacrifice is required. During World War II the dogs were used to haul artillery over the Pyreneean Mountain range to and from Spain and France.

6. Greater Swiss Mountain Dog


The Greater Swiss Mountain Dog is a large, muscular, tricolour (black, rust, and white; typically with a white blaze) dog. Males should weigh around 60 – 70 kg the height is 65 – 72 cm at the shoulders. Swissies have a very strong pack instinct. They are protective of their family and training is important for them to learn their place. They want the pack to be together and gets distressed when a member wanders off.










5. The Moscow Watchdog


After World War II, breeders in Moscow wanted to create a watchdog that would be particularly receptive to spoken orders. They took the Caucasian Ovtcharka (caucasian shepherd) – possessing wariness and ferocity, and the Saint Bernard – a larger breed with a gentle temperament, and now, over fifty years later, the Moscow Watchdog possesses the mental and physical attributes desired by the original breeders.

4. Boerboel


The Boerboel, the only breed of dog solely and specifically bred to defend the homestead. The dog should give the overall impression of immense substance, strength, power, and physical ability, and should be able to more than amply demonstrate this in his day to day work. Boerboels are a very dominant but intelligent breed, with a strong watchdog instinct. They are self-assured and fearless, but responsive to the needs of the family displaying an intuitive ability to sense if the family is in danger. Like other large dogs with a strong guard instinct, the Boerboel needs to be watched around strangers always, and introduced to friends and other dogs early on to avoid aggression, and like all dogs should never be left with young children unattended.

3. Argentinian Mastiff


The Dogo Argentino or argentinian mastiff, is a large, muscular and athletic white-coated dog with an unusual history. They are excessively tolerant of children due to their high pain tolerance, derived from selective breeding to be big game hunters. They are protective of what they perceive as their territory and will guard it without fear against any intruder. The minimum height for the male is 62 cm (24.3 inches).

2. Cane Corso


The Cane Corso is a medium-large guard dog native to Southern Italy. Its stable temperament and powerful body make him particularly valued as a guard dog and protection dog. Traditionally, rural Southern Italy has always used this rustic type of dog for the hunting of big game and for guard and protection work. These dogs were known under various regional names: Vucciuriscu (or Bucciuriscu) in Sicily, Cane della masseria in Puglia, Cane da Macellaio (Butchers Dog). The official FCI standard calls for dogs to stand from 60-68 centimeters at the withers (23.6-26.7 inches).

1. Caucasian Shepherd


I’m a dog owner and breeder, and I tell you, if you have a place (house, yard, facility) to protect, This is the dog you need. Excessive softness or vicious temperaments are considered serious faults for the breed some say, but if you really want the bigest, meanest dog around, he’s the one. This breed is very rustic and adapts quickly to every climate. The Caucasian Shepherd is well adjusted and active. However, he is highly suspicious of strangers, and he may become aggressive.

Bonus Dog: The Wolfdog


The Wolfdog. Half wolf, half some large shepherd breed. Vicious, hard to train, eats a lot, not very a very loving pet, but who would dare break into your home when you got wolves in the back yard? The dog pictured above is a Wolf-German Shepherd cross.

Dog Breeds That Don't Shed

Find dog breeds that don't shed or are less likely to shed. There are many small, medium and large breeds of dogs that don't shed or are light shedders.

The level of shedding is a question many prospective pet owners ask when deciding upon which dog to choose. It may be a matter of allergies or some people simply don’t want to deal with the housekeeping issue involved with dogs that shed heavily. Whether it’s a matter of cleaning or allergens that pose a problem, you are in luck. There are many wonderful dog breeds that are neither heavy shedders nor copious allergen producers.

There is no such thing as a completely non-shedding dog. Like humans, all dogs shed at least a little hair at one time or another. However there are dogs that shed little hair and these are the best choice for allergy sufferers and, pardon the expression, neat freaks.

Dog Shedding and Allergies
Most dog allergies are caused by dog dander, not the hair they shed. Dander is the dead skin that falls off the dog, depositing itself all over the house and wafting through the air into your nose and eyes in the process. All dogs produce dander, but some dogs create a lot less of it. Low-shedding breeds are considered to be more hypoallergenic, which means they don't produce as many allergens through flaky dead skin and dander as other breeds do.

Dogs also are pollen transmitters and many people are allergic to this powdery substance that helps propagate our trees and flowers. Pets pick it up outside, carrying it home to add to their owners’ allergy woes. The thicker the coat, the more of this stuff they can carry.

Understanding dog shedding
Shedding is affected by hormonal changes that are tied to photoperiod (day length). When kept mainly indoors, the amount of shed hair is affected by the amount of daylight, which also stimulates hormones and promotes shedding. It is also affected by the temperature of your home and influenced by the pet’s level of nutrition and general state of health. In addition to natural seasonal shedding, a dog may drop coat after surgery, anesthesia, or whelping puppies.

Dogs that don’t shed or shed less
Here are some of my favorite breeds that don't shed or are light shedders, listed by size to help you find the right companion for you and your family.


Small dogs that don't shed:

Affenpinscher A spunky terrier blend, the Affenpinscher charms owners with well-timed spirited antics. Active indoors, the breed does well in an apartment if taken for daily walks. Generally good with children and other pets, Affiepinschers are intelligent with a streak of stubbornness.
Australian Terrier Looking for a small, entertaining watchdog? The Australian Terrier is on the job. The Australians created this breed from several terriers, including the Dandie Dinmont. The Australian Terrier’s coarse-haired coat and topknot make this dapper dog easy to care for with a good brushing and some light trimming.
Basenji Although known for not barking, don’t think that this muscular, lightly built, medium-sized dog doesn’t make any sound. The Basenji yodels, mumbles, whimpers, chortles and can even screech like a siren. This intelligent and active dog is best for the dog-experienced family.
Bedlington Terrier Weighing 17 to 23 pounds, the Bedlington Terrier typically has a mild and gentle temperament, but he can also be full of energy. Some say that this medium-sized dog has a lamblike appearance. Check out the breed's nice topknot at the crown of the head and long drop ears with hair that forms a tassel at the end.
Bichon Frise This breed was favored by the French nobility during the 1500s, but had become a common companion in France by 1800. Most note the dog’s powder puff appearance at first glance, but the Bichon Frise is a sturdy, playful dog known for a cheerful and affectionate temperament.
Bolognese The sweet, playful and affectionate Bolognese gets along with children and other animals. Sometimes this all-white dog has champagne coloring on his back or ears, and his long soft, almost cotton-like coat covers his entire body. The Bolognese needs daily brushing to keep the beautiful coat free of tangles.
Border Terrier One of England’s oldest terrier breeds, the Border Terrier does well with children and other dogs, but he views small animals as prey. This breed’s alert, active and affectionate nature makes him a favorite with active individuals or families. The small, sturdy Border Terrier weighs about 11.5 to 15.5 pounds.
Brussels Griffon This full-of-personality toy dog breed comes in two different coats: rough or smooth. The rough is dense and wiry and the smooth is short and straight. The Brussels Griffon’s intelligence and confidence can make him more challenging to train for inexperienced dog owners.
Cairn Terrier This friendly and lively terrier craves affection and gets along with other animals and children. A good family dog, the Cairn Terrier is a small dog, weighing in at about 13 to 14 pounds. Most people know this breed because one played the part of Toto in the Wizard of Oz.
Chinese Crested Along with being small, fine-boned, active and playful, the Chinese Crested comes in two distinctive varieties: the hairless and the powderpuff. The hairless has special skin care needs, such as protection from the sun. Socialize this dog breed and it will do well with children and other animals.
Coton de Tuléar This cheerful, playful small dog was named for Madagascar’s port city of Tuléar. The Coton de Tuléar has a beautiful, soft, cotton-like coat. He is more commonly seen in the white color variety, although there is also atricolor and a black and white variety. Dachshund (Smooth and Wirehaired and Lonhaired varieties) Called a sausage dog and a wiener, the Doxie will entertain you with its comical and self-important demeanor. Its low-slung body was bred to tunnel after badgers. The longhaired one needs lots of brushing and the wirehair, which occasionally needs to be hand-stripped.
Dachshund (Smooth and Wirehaired and Lonhaired varieties) Called a sausage dog and a wiener, the Doxie will entertain you with its comical and self-important demeanor. Its low-slung body was bred to tunnel after badgers. The longhaired one needs lots of brushing and the wirehair, which occasionally needs to be hand-stripped.
Dandie Dinmont Terrier This breed does well with just one owner or a family, in the city or the country.The Dandie Dinmont Terrier weighs in at 18 to 24 pounds and is known for being independent and intelligent, although reserved. He is affectionate with his family and has a moderate activity level.
Havanese First kept as a companion by the Cuban aristocracy, this breed became popular with the middle class and was brought to the United States with Cuban refugees after the 1959 revolution. Attentive, intelligent and trainable, the friendly Havanese makes a quiet and gentle pet.
Italian Greyhound The small, finely boned Italian Greyhound does well with an individual owner or a family with older children. His short, smooth coat comes in many colors, such as blue, fawn, seal, red and white.This affectionate breed likes attention.
Lhasa Apso Got an apartment? This breed does well in one with his low activity level and small but hardy build. Of course, the Llhasa Apso still needs daily walks, but random dog petters should ask before petting. The Llhasa Apso can be wary of strangers and children, although affectionate with his owner and friends.
Maltese Weighing in between 4 and 7 pounds, this small, white breed is quite fearless considering his size. He trusts his friends but can be wary of strangers. The affectionate and playful Maltese has a silky, flat coat hanging to either side of the body from a center part.
Miniature Poodle Almost identical to the Standard Poodle and the Toy Poodle except for size, the Miniature Poodle weighs in at 14 to 16 pounds. This intelligent breed is highly trainable and affectionate. It is known for its curly coat, which can be clipped or left to cord.
Miniature Schnauzer This small, sturdy and square dog resembles the Standard Schnauzer from which the breed was developed. The Miniature Schnauzer weighs around 14 to 18 pounds. Alertness, spirit, loyal and intelligent are just a few of the words used to describe this breed. 

Tips for handling dog hair:
Even for low shedding breeds, hair control can be a maintenance issue. If you do fall head over heels with a dog that sheds, or there are some things you can do to manage the situation.
Regular brushing is the key - the hair will end up in your brush rather than on the carpet, the couch and your clothes.
Vacuum your floors and furniture frequently, using a machine with a HEPA (high-efficiency particulate arresting) filter.
Keep at least one room of the house dog-free. Your bedroom is a good choice but this may take training and will power if your pet has gotten used to sleeping with you!
Fit your home with a central air purifier that uses a HEPA filter and use it at least four hours a day to remove allergens.
Clean your dog’s dog bedding frequently.
Wash clothes you wear while interacting with your dog before putting them back in the closet or bureau drawer.
Limit the number of rugs, upholstered furniture, and drapes in your home. Opt for hardwood floors rather than wall-to-wall carpeting.
Bathe your dog regularly and brush or comb him daily, outdoors if possible.
Always wash your hands after touching your dog and avoid touching your eyes and face until you do.

Many of these dog breeds have high-maintenance grooming needs, but are breeds that shed a significant amount less than others. As always, thorough research and evaluation of your lifestyle are important when selecting a dog breed. I wish you well in your search and hope you find the one that is just right for you!
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