Sleeping Arrangements for Puppies

Sleeping arrangements for a new puppy will require some preparation. If you're adopting early, it's very likely that this will be your puppy's first night away from its mother and littermates. To get you ready to accommodate your new addition and make your puppy as comfortable as possible, we've put together some tips that should help smooth the transition.

Before settling in for the night, I recommend tiring the puppy out and making sure that any bathroom needs are taken care of. I strongly suggest you keep the puppy's resting place near your bed for the first few nights to help her feel less lonely. If you plan to use a kennel or crate, wait until the puppy is in a calm submissive and relaxed state before closing her in. It is important that she not feel trapped and that she not associate anything negative with her sleeping arrangements. Remember that your puppy experiences the world with her nose first, so providing a towel, toy, blanket or other object with the familiar scent of her mother and littermates may help her relax. You may also want to include an item or two with the scent of your puppy's new family members to help her become familiar with you and adapt to her new pack.

If your puppy tries to leave her bed, begins to whine, or tries to use chewing as a way to cope with the anxiety of being alone, give her gentle but firm corrections. The puppy's mother set very strict rules for behavior, so she should need very little correction in order to get the point.

Some puppies may miss the feeling of a beating heart next to them when they sleep. To help your puppy along some, "beating heart" plush toys can be purchased at pet stores that mimic the sound of a canine mother's heartbeat.

If you have another balanced dog that has demonstrated a gentle energy around the puppy, you can employ that dog as a surrogate teacher to help the puppy feel safe and get a good night's rest. Remember, the best teacher is a canine one!

Problem: Dog Won’t Sleep Through the Night

Help! My puppy is 1.5 months and he will not let me sleep at night. He sleeps for 1 ½ to 2 hours and then wakes up and wants to play. And so on all night long. How do I get him to sleep through the night? I'm going crazy from lack of sleep.

Advice from Cesar’s good friend and dog trainer Cheri Lucas:

Pack leaders need their sleep, so here’s my advice on how you can turn this situation around!

The concept of creating rules, boundaries and limitations is an essential component for any effective dog-training program. This is especially important when it comes to raising a puppy. Having a puppy gives you the opportunity to work with a “clean slate,” to mold your young dog into the canine companion you’ve always dreamed of. Unfortunately, you also have the opportunity to create a confused and dysfunctional pup if you’re inadvertently setting him up for failure.

When a mother dog gives birth to a litter of pups, she immediately begins creating structure and discipline for her pack. Your job as your pups’ new pack leader is to do the same. The good news is that puppies automatically seek direction and thrive on routine. The rules and boundaries you create for your pup now will have a lasting impression on him as he matures into an adult dog.

Your puppy should be eating three times a day until he is about 8 months old. You should have a solid feeding schedule that you don’t deviate from. A puppy’s digestive system works very quickly, so plan on taking him out to his potty area immediately after he eats. Stay calm and relaxed and don’t rush him. Once he eliminates, you can spend quality time playing or interacting with him.

Now here’s the important part: Get a crate for your pup to sleep in at night and to use during the day for naptime. A dog crate or kennel is the modern day equivalent to a wolf’s den in the wild. Once you properly introduce your pup to his crate, you won’t know what you ever did without this phenomenal tool!

Place the crate in your bedroom and introduce your pup to it gradually. Your energy should be calm and assertive when you take your pup to the crate the first time. If necessary, you can lure him into the crate with a high value treat such as a tiny piece of cheese or chicken. Have him stay in the crate for a few minutes with the gate closed. If he cries, ignore the behavior until he relaxes and stops fussing. Remain calm and relaxed when you release him from the crate – don’t go into an excited, “praise” mode. Practice taking him in and out of his crate multiple times throughout the day, increasing the time he stays in it.

The last meal you feed your pup should be at least 3 hours before you go to bed. This will allow your pup to thoroughly digest his food for the day before sleeping through the night. Two hours before bedtime, remove your pup’s access to water. When you’re ready for bed, take your pup to his crate while remaining calm and assertive.

If you’ve been consistent with your dog’s feeding ritual, potty breaks and exercise, he should be able to sleep throughout the night, or at the very least, for a good 4 or 5 hours without having to eliminate. He may begin to whimper because past experience has taught him that this strategy has been very effective for him to get his way. By taking him out every 1-½ hours to play, he’s essentially giving you a command and you’re obeying him! From his perspective, crying works! If you cave in and let your pup out of the crate at this time, you will be rewarding his behavior and teaching him to repeat it over and over again. Instead, either ignore the whining or correct him with a sharp sound. Chances are, he’ll eventually stop and fall asleep.

If he doesn’t settle down within 20 minutes, take the crate to another room so you can get some sleep. For the next 3 or 4 weeks, you may want to take him out of his crate only ONCE during the middle of the night. This is to eliminate ONLY. If he tries to initiate play, ignore him. You are literally taking care of business and taking him back to bed.

Puppies require more time and commitment than an adult dog in the beginning. Just remember that the structure you’re providing now will be the foundation of a perfectly balanced dog in the future! Now get some sleep!!

Surviving the Night with your New Puppy

"It was the best of times, it was the worst of times."

-Charles Dickens (he must have had a puppy)

That Dickens quote really sums up what it's like having a puppy. There's nothing more exciting than bringing your new puppy home, playing with him and kissing him on his cute little nose... it's the best. And there's nothing more horrifying than realizing that puppies seem to pee and poo constantly and finding out that they have zero respect for your need to sleep at night... it's the worst.

We'll break it to you as gently as we can. If you have a new puppy, you're not going to get a solid 8 hours sleep for a while. If you accept that fact, it'll be easier to do the necessary training to teach your puppy to sleep through the night.

Most puppies aren't able to sleep through the night when they first come home to their new owners, but almost all puppies sleep through the night by the time they're 16 weeks old. With proper training and scheduling, you should be able to teach Fido to do it even earlier.

Sometimes even adult dogs are unable to sleep through the night without waking up for a potty trip when they first come to a new home. The stress of coming to a new environment and adjusting to a new schedule and possibly a new food can wreak havoc on your new dog's digestive system. The instructions that follow will work for him, too. The good news is that if he's 6 months or older, it'll probably be just a few nights of adjustment before you'll be able to get a full night's sleep.

Where Should Your Puppy Sleep?

This training will work best if your puppy is in your bedroom so you know what he's up to. He'll also be more likely to settle in and sleep if he's in the same room with you instead of alone in a new, unfamiliar environment.

If you aren't willing or able to have little Fido in your room at night, you can do this training with him in another room. If you do this, you might try leaving music, a fan, or a white noise machine on, since the sound may help to soothe and relax him. Since you won't be able to hear Fido if he starts to fidget or fuss when he needs to go potty, you'll need to be extra responsible about getting in there to take him out to potty at regular intervals.

You'll most likely have your puppy sleeping in his crate overnight, so, along with this article, you should also read our article about "Acclimating Your Puppy to his Crate". If necessary, you can get additional help from our articles that teach you what to do if Fido barks in his crate or goes potty in his crate.

If you're doing indoor potty training, your puppy can sleep in his confinement area with his bed and access to his potty area. If you don't want him to be by himself in another area of the house, you can crate him in your bedroom overnight. You should not create an additional indoor potty area for him in your bedroom unless you plan to have one there long-term, so using the crate overnight and his confinement zone with potty area during the day works well for many puppy owners.

Preparing Your Puppy for Bedtime

What you do with Fido in the evening will have a big impact on how well he'll sleep (and how well YOU'LL sleep) at night. Puppies sleep a lot, so he'll probably try to snooze for much of the evening. If you allow this to happen, of course, he'll wake up refreshed and ready to rock and roll at bedtime or in the middle of the night. Don't let Fido sleep too much in the evening... run around in the yard with him, play with him, have your friends come over to visit him and keep him busy. We want him to be good and tired by the time bedtime rolls around.

Fido shouldn't have food or water before going to bed, either, for obvious reasons. If he goes to bed with a full belly and bladder, you're pretty much guaranteed a rough night. Generally, it's best to avoid giving Fido food or water for 3 hours before bedtime. Rarely, a puppy needs to have access to food and water very frequently due to medical issues. This is most common with small-breed puppies. If you have any concern that this may be the case with your puppy, please talk to your vet before setting up Fido's feeding schedule.

Be sure that you have everything you'll need for a potty trip set up and readily accessible before you go to bed so you won't have to scramble around looking for it in the middle of the night. Have something to wear (slippers and robe, shoes and jacket, etc.), Fido's leash if you'll be using it, a flashlight if you need it, poo pick up bags if you'll need them. When you wake up later, you'll be glad everything's ready to go.

Be sure to give your puppy a few chances to empty out during the evening and make sure the very last thing you do before going to bed is take him out to potty, even if he's asleep and you have to wake him to do it.

Your Puppy's Overnight Potty Trip

Overnight potty trips are a little different from potty trips during the day. During the day, you play with Fido and fuss over him after he relieves himself. If you do that at night, you'll have big problems, since Fido will start waking you up just to have a party! Overnight potty trips are strictly business. Take him directly to his potty area and give him a couple of minutes to go. When he goes, calmly tell him he's good, take him back inside, put him in his crate and go back to bed.

Some dogs, especially young puppies, are so sleepy when you take them out that they just lay down in the potty area and try to go back to sleep. This doesn't necessarily mean he doesn't need to go potty... he's just so sleepy he hasn't noticed yet that he needs to go potty. If Fido does this, you should encourage him to move around a bit. You can pick him up and put him back on his feet if you need to... whatever it takes to get him to wake up and get down to business.

When you're up with Fido in the middle of the night, you shouldn't talk much to him, and you shouldn't play with him, take him for a long, fun walk or give him treats, food, water or a chew bone. If he gets to do cool stuff when he wakes up in the middle of the night, he'll start waking you because he wants some attention or a midnight snack. We want him to learn that nighttime is for sleeping and nothing fun happens when he wakes up in the middle of the night.

Overnight Scheduling for Your Puppy

Anticipating and preparing for Fido's need to go potty in the middle of the night is the key to training him to sleep though the night as quickly as possible. Most puppy owners just go to sleep in the middle of the night with their fingers crossed, hoping little Fido will be okay until morning. Not a good plan. He'll likely either have an accident in his crate or start barking and crying in the middle of the night to go potty. When he starts barking, his half-asleep, groggy owner stumbles around in the dark, looking for his slippers and MAYBE gets Fido out for a potty trip before it's too late.

Aside from the obvious problems with that plan, there's the really big problem... that Fido learns he can wake you up by yipping and yowling. Once he learns he has control of whether and when you sleep or wake up, he'll likely wake you up earlier and more often. When you plan his nighttime schedule properly and in advance, you'll be taking control and you'll be able to make wake-up times later and less frequent. A much better plan.

The way to take control of overnight potty times is to set your alarm to wake you up in the middle the night, whether little Fido wakes up or not. We want to beat him to the punch... waking him before he's so uncomfortable that he wakes up and starts to fuss. This way, he never gets into the habit of making noise to wake you.

At first, you'll probably need to set your alarm to go off a few times at night, depending on your puppy's age at the time you're starting his program. If you start him when he's 7-9 weeks old, it'll probably need to be every 2 hours, from 9-14 weeks every 3 hours, 14 weeks and up, every 4 hours. These are general guidelines, of course, and you may find that Fido needs to go out more or less frequently.

If you've already been through a few hellish nights with Fido, you probably have some idea how long he can hold it, so you can base your scheduling on that. If your puppy has been waking up screaming every 4 hours, wake him up every 3 or 3 1/2 hours. The goal is just to catch him before his need to go becomes so critical that he starts barking and howling.

Once you've got Fido on a schedule of waking up at intervals during the night, you're going to start to push it so he sleeps longer. This is where the program starts to pay off... since you've taken control of the nighttime schedule, you can adjust the wake up times and work toward the holy grail of puppy training... sleeping through the night.

Once you've been able to wake Fido up and take him out to potty on schedule with no barking, howling or accidents in the middle of the night for three consecutive nights, you can move on. What you're going to do now is set your alarm for 15 minutes later for each potty trip. So, if you've been waking Fido up at 1:30, 3:30 and 5:30, you'll now start waking him at 1:45, 3:45 and 5:45. After another three good nights, you'll move all 3 potty trips ahead by 15 minutes again.

Keep moving the potty trips ahead until the last potty trip coincides with your wake up time. Congratulations... you're now down to two potty trips instead of three! And if you keep pushing ahead by 15 minutes at a time, you'll soon be down to one, then NONE!

What if Your Puppy Barks or Cries Overnight?

Sometimes, you'll get lucky and find that Fido is so knocked out by the excitement of coming to his new home, he'll just sleep like a rock. Sometimes, you won't be so lucky. If your puppy is making noise in his crate when you first put him in, it's likely he's just unhappy about being closed in there, since all of this is new to him. You'll find help for this problem in Acclimating Fido to his Crate and What to do When Fido Barks in his Crate.

if your puppy starts barking, howling or whining in the middle of the night, there's a good chance he needs to go potty, so you should take him out for a quick potty trip as outlined above, even if it isn't his scheduled time to go. Although we don't want Fido to get into the habit of thinking he can wake you up as often and as early as he likes by barking and crying, we need to play it safe, so he should get a chance to relieve himself any time he gets noisy. You should not ignore his crying if it occurs spontaneously in the middle of the night, since you run the risk of forcing him to go potty in his crate and starting him on the path to habitually soiling his crate. This will mess up your housebreaking program and make a lot more work for you in the long run, so get up and get his little butt out for a potty trip!

Crate Training a Puppy at Night

One of the fastest and most effective ways to housebreak your puppy is to crate-train him, according to Perfect Paws. Crate training forces your puppy to restrain himself and eliminate in the right time and place, and it helps him strengthen his bladder and bowels so he can exercise intentional control. Be patient and consistent, and your puppy will learn what you want him to do.

Step 1

Purchase a sturdy crate for your puppy that is just big enough to allow him to stand and turn around. Cushion it with sturdy but soft towels or old sheets.

Step 2

Teach your puppy to love his crate. Give it a name like "place." During the day, teach him that when he goes inside his crate he gets a treat. Keep a safe chew toy inside.

Step 3

Take your puppy outside to relieve himself right before bedtime. Give him enough time to urinate and defecate---at least 10 minutes.

Step 4

Keep the crate near your bed or at least near your bedroom. Your puppy might need to go outside in the middle of the night---at least for the first few weeks. If the crate is nearby, you can hear him cry or rattle the door. If you have other dogs that sleep near you, the puppy should be nearby, too, so he does not feel socially isolated.

Step 5

Tell your puppy it's time for him to go to his "place." When he goes inside, give him a small treat and praise him for being a good boy. For the first few nights, your puppy might cry because he wants to be with you, but resist the temptation to give in. Allowing him to sleep outside the crate prolongs the training.

Step 6

Take him out early in the morning. Your puppy will probably wake up at sunrise and want to go outside. Be sensitive to your puppy's needs and forgo sleeping late for a while.

Step 7

Praise your puppy when he enters his crate, when he leaves it and when he relieves himself outside.

DOG CRATE TRAINING

Is it cruel to lock my dog in a crate or cage?
Many people think this is true, as they would certainly not want to be locked in a crate (note that dog crate and dog cage are the same thing) for any length of time themselves. Well, this is not the case for dogs who are 'den' animals. Just look at where they want to spend most of their sleep and relaxation time - under the table, tucked in the corner of a room. In the wild, wolves and wild dogs are known to burrow holes to sleep in.

Hopefully you are getting the picture, basically dogs like to feel safe and secure when sleeping and have somewhere they can be alone. A dog crate is able to provide this safe haven.

Why use a dog crate / cage anyway?
A crate helps address many of the problems that cause stress and anxiety to pet owners. They serve a useful purpose to prevent (and rectify) problems associated with destructive behaviour and fear of strangers or other types of people. They help with house training, with visitors who are afraid of dogs and of course when travelling with your dog.

Where should I put the dog crate?
The best places for a crate or cage are in the corner of rooms, away from too much heat and cold drafts. Dogs like to be near their pack (which is you), so locate the crate where your dog can see and hear you. It's a good idea for the crate to be your dog's only bed.

What do I look for in a dog crate / cage?
A dog crate is a usually a rectangular enclosure constructed of wire, plastic, canvas or even wood. Some people prefer to start out with a wire crate as these are less prone to being chewed in the early days of crate training.

Size: Whichever type of dog crate / cage you get, they should be large enough to allow your dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting their head on the top. Also remember that a dog crate that is too large defeats the purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control.
Materials: avoid cheap thin wire crates they are not worth it! They are more prone to collapsing accidents and dogs can easily chew the wires together making for an unsighly crate.
Dividers: If you are purchasing a crate that is large enough for your dog when fully grown block off part of it initially, so that your dog feels snug and secure. Adjustable crate dividers are perfect for this.
Cover: It is also a good idea to have a cover to darken the inside of the dog crate, this helps to settle your dog and make it less likely for him to be disturbed by distraction outside. Covers can either be a blanket or better still vinyl covers that are easy to keep clean and are not a heaven for fleas. Whichever you choose, make sure your dog’s crate has plenty of ventilation and is not in direct sunlight
Bedding: We always recommend that the bed covers the entire dog crate (i.e. do not leave an area for soiling). This helps build bowl control as your puppy will not want to soil his or her bed. You will have accidents though, so it is a good idea to have a couple of machine washable beds on hand.
Water: Your dog should always have access to water, so we think a good quality clip on crate bowl is essentail.

When should crate / cage training start?
It is best to start crate training when your dog is still a puppy. That's not to say you cannot train an older dog, it just takes a little longer.

How long should I use a crate / cage?
Plan to use the crate until the puppy is ten or twelve months old, well past the chewing stage. You will not need to continue crating once your dog becomes an adult (and is trustworthy), but your dog will probably enjoy the continued use of the crate as its own special place. If you decide not to keep the crate, slowly wean your dog off it.

Crates are not just for puppies, they are also a valuable tool to help solve behavioural problems in adolescent and more mature dogs. Acclimatising older dogs is a lot harder and will require more patience. If you plan to travel a lot with your dog, it may well be worth continued use of the crate.

How do I acclimatise my dog to the crate / cage?
You can't lock your dog in a crate and just expect the whole concept to work - it won't. You will need time and patience to introduce the crate to successfully ensure your dog sees it as its home and special place. Here are a few guidelines:

• Start by leaving the crate door open, and place all your dog’s toys just inside the door. Hence if they want a toy they will have to climb into the crate a bit and retrieve it. You can also use special treats as a further encouragement to enter the crate. Day by day, move the toys or treats further back. It will only take a day or two before your dog starts to go into the crate to lie down.
• After a few days of napping and sleeping in the open crate, quietly close the door (preferably while your dog is asleep) and leave it closed for a few minutes or until they wake up. Once awake, open the door, praise them and release them from the crate.
• Gradually build up the amount of time the crate door is kept closed. Eventually, you will be able to stay in the room, with the door closed, and your dog will lie there quietly until they fall asleep.
• Once this is comfortable for your dog, leave the house, and then return immediately. Move on to leaving your dog for longer and longer periods of time (3 minutes, 5 minutes, 7 minutes, 1/2 an hour, and so on), until you do not hear any barking or crying at any point.
• Continue increasing the time and work on trying to get a fixed routine of leaving the house (i.e. picking up your keys, putting your coat on etc)

After acclimatisation, then what?

Put your dog in its crate at regular intervals during the day up to a maximum of 2 hours.
Don't crate only when you are leaving the house. Place the dog in the crate while you are home as well. Use it as a "safe" zone (thus keeping your sanity).
By crating when you are home AND while you are gone, your dog becomes comfortable in the crate and not worried that you will not return, or that you are leaving him/her alone. This helps to prevent separation anxiety later in life.
Give your dog a chew toy for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tags which could become caught in an opening.
Make it very clear to children that the crate is NOT a playhouse for them, but a "special room" for the dog,
Although the crate is your dog's haven and safe place, it must not be off-limits to humans. Acclimatise your dog from the outset to letting you reach inside at anytime.
Do not let the dog out of the crate while they are barking or they will think that barking is the key to opening the door to the crate. Wait until the barking or whining has stopped for at least 10 seconds before letting them out.
Finally, but most importantly: NEVER USE THE CRATE AS A PUNISHMENT AND NEVER DISCIPLINE YOUR DOG WHILST IN THE CRATE - it is their haven, a place of safety and security and should not be associated with any negative experiences.

Should I allow them to soil their crate?
Most dogs and puppies will not soil their "den", but you should ensure you walk your puppy outside every 1-2 hours. However, accidents will happen, particularly during the night. To minimise this, take them out just before bedtime and first thing early in the morning. If you hear whining during the night, get up and take them outside.

Do not punish the dog if it soils the crate. Remember, a new puppy needs to go out every 1-2 hours. This includes after feeding time, upon waking up, after play sessions and whenever you see them sniffing the floor.

Immediately clean any accidents in the crate with a specialised odour remover cleaner. Do not use ammonia-based cleaners as these will attract further soiling due to their similarity in smelling like urine.

Crate Training

"Private room with a view. Ideal for traveling dogs or for those who just want a secure, quiet place to hang out at home."

That's how your dog might describe his crate. It's his own personal den where he can find comfort and solitude while you know he's safe and secure—and not shredding your house while you're out running errands.

Crating philosophy

Crate training uses a dog's natural instincts as a den animal. A wild dog's den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family. The crate becomes your dog's den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm.

The primary use for a crate is housetraining. Dogs don't like to soil their dens.

The crate can limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other rules, like not to chew on furniture.

Crates are a safe way to transport your dog in the car.

Crating caution!

A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated.

Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.

Don't leave your dog in the crate too long. A dog that’s crated day and night doesn't get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious. You may have to change your schedule, hire a pet sitter, or take your dog to a doggie daycare facility to reduce the amount of time he must spend in his crate every day.

Puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for that long. The same goes for adult dogs that are being housetrained. Physically, they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to.

Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily.

Selecting a crate

Several types of crates are available:

Plastic (often called "flight kennels")

Fabric on a collapsible, rigid frame

Collapsible, metal pens

Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores or pet supply catalogs.

Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other. Your local animal shelter may rent out crates. By renting, you can trade up to the appropriate size for your puppy until he’s reached his adult size, when you can invest in a permanent crate.

The crate training process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training:

The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.

Training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.

Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at his leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them:

Bring him over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten him.

Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force him to enter.

Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feed your dog his meals in the crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.

If he remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.

Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating.

If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, don’t let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.

Step 3: Lengthen the crating periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home.

Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.

Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.

After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door.

Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let him out of the crate.

Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight.

Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave

After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house.

Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate.

Vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.

Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly.

When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.

Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation.

Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Potential problems

Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

Bathing and Shampooing Your Dog

* Do not bathe your dog too often because that will dry out the skin, deplete healthy oils from the coat and skin, and lead to scratching and irritation. Frequency is largely dependent on the breed and activities of the dog. Dogs who spend a lot of time outside or engage in outdoor activities that expose them to dirt, bugs and/or debris typically require more bathing, perhaps every 6 weeks or more frequently. Some groomers recommend bathing double-coated breeds only about 3 times a year and suggest that smooth-coated dogs can go a lot longer between baths than can curly-coated breeds such as poodles. Too frequent bathing can cause the coat to soften and reduce its insulating qualities.

* To keep your dog clean between baths, brush vigorously and regularly -- preferably daily. This is good for the coat and skin, and helps the dog look and smell good. If you are allergic to your pet, wear a mask when you brush...brush outdoors or onto a newspaper indoors to aid in clean up...and wash hands afterwards.

* Remember that after being indoors during the colder months, a dog's fur and skin can become dry. And if your dog grows an undercoat, you need to comb it out in warmer weather. If a dog�s fur gets matted, the skin cannot breathe -- compelling the dog to scratch and pull out fur, which can result in sores.

* Wait until a puppy is more than five weeks old before giving him his first bath.

Preparing your puppy or dog for his first bath:

* Things will go more smoothly if you introduce your pet to the idea of bathing before actually giving him his first bath.

* Help your dog learn to trust you through such actions as touching the paws, handling the ears and opening the mouth several times a day. Praise positive responses and consider reinforcing good behavior with small treats.

* Let the dog sniff grooming tools such as his comb, brush, clippers and tooth brush. As the dog becomes less timid and more accepting of the items, praise and if food-motivated, supplement the positive reinforcement with treats.

* Let your dog get accustomed to the sound of running water. You can reinforce calm behavior and build a positive association by using verbal praise and treats.

* If you plan to use a dryer, slowly introduce the dog to the dryer. Pet dryers are recommended over human blow dryers.

* If you think the dog will balk at his first bath, you might want to have someone help you the first time. You want to make your dog�s first bath to be a good experience so that he will be accepting of future baths.

Before the bath:

* Brush thoroughly and remove all tangles and mats, which you won�t be able to unsnarl when the fur is wet. For badly matted fur, you may have to snip mats with scissors. Proceed with caution; it is easy to nick the dog�s skin, and you do not want to do that.

* If the dog has any ticks, foxtails or other embedded items, remove them carefully. Typically, you will use tweezers. For details about fleas, ticks, insect stings and skin conditions, see the web links listed at the end of this tipsheet.

* If there is paint, tar, pine sap or other sticky substance caught in the fur, try to soften and remove it with petroleum jelly, or soak the area with vegetable oil or mineral oil for 24 hours. Some people have also had success removing sticky and oily substances with Dawn liquid dishwashing detergent. If these techniques do not work, trim away the affected fur. Do not use solvent, paint stripper, concentrated detergent, or fabric softener on dogs, since these substances are toxic when ingested and can also hurt the skin.

* It�s a good idea to trim and file a dog�s nails before a bath, especially if the dog might claw or scratch the floor, tub or you in an attempt to get away.

* You�ll get wet, so wear a smock or old comfortable clothes.

* Pick a suitable location for the bath, such as a room with a closed door. This will prevent the dog from escaping and will also keep the rest of your house from getting sprayed with water. Prepare the room by removing items that could be damaged by water and any items that could injure you or the dog as you move around. You can line the floor and other surfaces with a plastic sheet, an old shower curtain, large cut-open trash bags or sheet.

* Gather your supplies: shampoo, brushes (you may want to use a shampooing brush), comb, washcloth and/or sponge, towels, cotton balls, mineral oil, petroleum jelly...and detangler and moisturizer if you use them. A soft brush is helpful in cleaning around paws. You can place the items in a plastic bucket for easy carrying and access...and open bottle caps beforehand so that you do not have to wrestle with caps while holding onto your dog. You may wish to put a few small tasty treats in a plastic baggie so that you can reward your dog for good, calm behavior.

* A detachable shower spray nozzle makes washing and rinsing much easier. You can find shower hose attachments at home improvement stores. Many attach right behind your regular showerhead.

* If you don�t have a shower spray nozzle, get a pitcher.

* Remove the dog�s regular collar. To help you restrain the dog during the bath, you can use a nylon collar and nylon leash. Do not use leather in the water, since the water can cause the leather to shrink and to leak dye on your dog�s fur. Many groomers recommend using a bathing tether when bathing dogs in tubs.

* If your dog tends to bite when confronted with a bath, you might want to use a muzzle.

* Shampoo. Use a shampoo formulated for dogs, and one that is gentle and will not strip the natural oils of the dog�s coat. Do not use human shampoo, which is not the right pH for doggie fur and skin. Read the directions, and be aware that some shampoos and soaps are not appropriate for all ages or types of dogs. Oatmeal shampoos are good for dogs with itchy skin. Many people use dog shampoos containing chlorhexidine, which has anti-bacterial qualities. Avoid shampoos with insecticides, since the chemicals can be harsh. If your dog has fleas, use a gentle shampoo containing pyrethrin, pyrethrum or citrus oil.

* Here�s a gentle homemade shampoo for pups and dogs with extra dry or troubled skin. Mix 1/3 cup glycerin, 1 cup lemon Liquid Joy, 1 cup white vinegar, and 1 quart water in a liter bottle. Shake the solution before each use to mix thoroughly.

* Use a saline or weak salt and water mix to cotton swab around your dog�s eyes to clean away debris.

* To protect your dog�s eyes from bath water and soap, apply some petroleum jelly or mineral oil around the eyes. In addition, put a drop of mineral oil in each eye to protect against irritation.

* Put a cotton ball in each ear to keep water out. Make sure the cotton ball is large enough that it does not get caught in the ear canal.

* You might want to wipe around the dog�s anal area with a baby wipe or wet-nap before the bath, and/or clip long soil-prone fur beneath the tail around the anus.

* Choose a tub or basin that is not too deep.

* Smaller dogs can be bathed in the kind of rubber storage bin available at discount stores. Some folks with little dogs use two basins: one for bathing and the other for rinsing. Metal washtubs are available from agriculture supply merchants.

* Place a nonskid rubber mat in the basin or tub. This will prevent slipping and make the dog feel more secure.

* Choose a warm, draft-free place to bathe and dry the dog.

* While some people have bathed dogs with garden hoses, there are drawbacks such as the water being too cold, the outside air being too cold or windy, and the hose frightening the dog.

During the bath:

* Make sure water is warm but not hot. Then, fill the water to knee level.

* If you plan to use a nylon collar and leash to stablize your dog during bathing, put them on now.

* Lift your dog and place in the tub. Be sure to lift in a way that will not hurt your back. For example...place one arm under the chest in front of the dog's front legs, and place the other arm behind the rear legs and under the tail. Stay fairly upright and lift with your legs -- not with your back. For a heavy dog, have someone help with lifting the dog into and out of the tub.

* Get your dog used to the water by spraying his back and shoulders. Keep the spray on low. (Remember, scaring or hurting your dog will increase his resistance to being bathed in the future.) Be gentle, work gradually, and give the dog time to acclimate. Try to keep the spray nozzle about an inch from the dog so that the water efficiently penetrates the fur.

* After your dog relaxes, wash his head. Never spray water directly in a dog�s face. Slightly lift his face so that the water runs down the back of the head. Use your fingers, a washcloth or sponge to move the water around the eyes, nose, and mouth.

* Lather up the body with shampoo. You can apply a line of shampoo along the dog�s back and back of the head. Massage the suds all the way down to the skin.

* Some experts suggest shampooing the body, then toward his rear end and then the head last. Other experts suggest starting with the head and neck to prevent fleas from moving up the body to the head. In any case, avoid getting soap in the dog�s eyes.

* You can use a rubber brush on a dog with shorter hair to help work the shampoo into the coat. The rubber brush can also be used to remove debris clinging to hair. For dogs with long hair, massage the coat in the direction of hair growth to avoid tangles.

* Work the suds down and under the tail, the underside, legs and all around the paws. And remember to clean under the neck, in facial wrinkles and ear flaps. A soft brush is useful for cleaning around the paw pads and other small areas.

* If the dog�s ears stand up, cup your hand over the ear opening while washing and rinsing.

* Remember, you can reward good behavior by giving your dog a few treats during the bath.

* After thoroughly lathering, rinse the dog with lukewarm, never hot, water. A detachable shower spray nozzle is most convenient. Check the temperature and make sure the spray is not too strong before aiming at the dog. Or use a large pitcher.

* Gently rinse the dog�s face and head first. Cover his eyes with one hand and rinse the top of the head and around the eyes. Next, cover the nose and rinse the rest of the face and neck. Work down the body.

* If the dog is rather dirty, you can repeat the lathering and rinsing steps.

* Rinse until the water runs clear so that no dirt or soap residue remains. Otherwise, the residue can lead to skin irritation or allergic reactions. The pet may also ingest the residue when licking himself. Knead the fur with your hand to help remove soap.

* Mist dog�s coat with a detangler spray for easier combing after the bath. You can also apply a moisturizer.

After the bath:

* Depending on the dog�s coat, use your hands to squeeze excess water from his fur. Start by squeezing water from the tail and paws.

* Wrap the dog in a large, absorbent towel. Gently rub him dry. If he has long hair, avoid heavy rubbing that can tangle the fur; blot instead.

* Remove cotton balls and towel out the remaining moisture in the ears. Moisture left in the ears can lead to infections.

* If your dog has urinary accidents, place a towel under her when drying to absorb any urine released.

* You can let him help by letting him shake his fur.

* If you prefer, you can also use a pet dryer or blow dryer on a low setting. Dryers are often preferable to towel-drying for dogs with frizzy or long fur. FYI, pet dryers are better suited to dog fur than are human blow dryers. Never aim a dryer at a dog�s face. And never use overly warm or hot air, which can dry out the skin and even burn the dog. Use a low setting.

* If using an automated dryer that hangs on the front of a crate, test the temperature before aiming it at the dog, and check on the animal at least every 10 to 15 minutes for safety reasons. * Do not let the dog outside in cool or cold weather until he is completely dry.

Between baths:

* Brush and comb daily. Check for fleas, ticks, debris, foxtails and skin conditions.

* To give your pet a waterless bath, sprinkle on baking soda and brush off the excess.

* And remember, you can also have a professional groom and bathe your dog.

Washing your puppy

How you wash your dog will largely be determined by his breed. But sooner or later, you’re going to have to do it; we’ll explain how:
Wet, wet, wet!

There are two major points to consider when bathing your dog; how often to do it, and how to go about it.
How often?

‘Not too often,’ is the short answer. A dog’s coat needs its natural oils to remain soft and silky and to keep from getting brittle or damaged. If you bathe your dog too often (every week, for example), you will strip away those oils.

A good rule of thumb is to only bathe your dog when he is noticeably dirty or smelly. However, the time between baths will vary from dog to dog (a long-haired dog will get tangled and matted hair if he goes too long between baths), and may also change from one time of year to another.

How to wash your dog – a few tips

• Start young. This will help your dog get used to the process.
• Make it fun and praise your dog throughout.
• Select a location for the wash to take place based on breed size and time of year. A sink or a washtub works fine for puppies and small dogs, whereas big dogs need the bathtub. If it's warm outside, use a hose.
• Put a rubber mat in the bottom of your tub. Your dog will feel more secure if he isn’t slipping all over the place.
• Before starting, gather all the things you need – shampoo, towels, possibly a bucket… Don’t turn your back on a wet dog unless you want to be involved in a chase!
• Make sure the water is lukewarm.
• Only use shampoo that has been formulated specifically for dogs – and if possible, make it a tearless shampoo.
• Avoid getting water or soap in your dog’s eyes and ears.
• Wet your dog’s head last – this will minimise his desire to shake.
• Rinse well. The flaky, itchy discomfort many dogs experience after a bath comes from inadequate shampoo removal (or sometimes by too-frequent bathing).
• In the winter, keep your dog inside until dry. A blow dryer, set on warm or cool – never hot – to avoid burning, can speed things along.
• Dogs love a good shake to remove excess water. A shake starts at the dog’s head, so if you hold his head still, shaking will be limited. Tossing a towel over your dog immediately after the bath is done can prevent too much water on the walls. If you want to avoid getting an unwanted shower entirely, teach your dog to shake on command. This takes a little patience and training, but it’s possible.
• Once you’ve finished washing your dog, tell them to sit/stay. If he starts to shake, quickly guide him back into his sit. Resume sit/stay and get out of the way. Tell him to shake and praise, praise, praise.

Did you know?
Bathing is a good opportunity to check your dog’s skin. Feel all over for lumps or rough areas. Contact your vet if you find any. Keeping puppy well groomed is an essential part of living together happily.

When to Start Bathing a Puppy

Q. When can I start giving my puppies baths?

A. Although the mother dog performs lots of canine hygiene chores by licking her puppies clean, sometimes they get awfully dirty from poop, newsprint if they are being paper-trained, dog food, or just plain dirt. Most times, all you need to do is sponge them off with a warm moist washcloth or a disposable wipe, but sometimes only a bath will do.

Even if they are just a few weeks old, if you do it carefully, you can safely bathe them. In fact, if your puppies are a breed that will require professional grooming, it’s a good idea to get them used to the bathing process early on. It’s also important to instruct new owners on the proper way to bathe a puppy before they go to a new home. 

Bathing a young puppy is not much different than bathing a human baby. First and foremost, you need to keep them warm when they are bathed: a warm room, warm water that is comfortable on your own skin, nice fluffy towels, and warm air – not hot – from a blow dryer if they are full-coated and need blow drying. Of course, you should never allow them to go outdoors if they are damp. Not only could they catch a chill, they just might roll in whatever is handy, including grass, gravel, and mud, undoing all of your work in the process.

Fluffy-coated puppies need to be brushed thoroughly before they are bathed. Water adds volume to mats and tangles, tightening them up during the bathing process. Most puppies can be bathed right in the kitchen sink. Place them on a rubber mat to prevent slipping and using the dish-spray hose or a hand-held shampoo attachment used for travel, wet them down from the back end with a gentle spray so they won’t panic. 

In most cases, a puppy tearless shampoo works best, but if your baby is really stinky, you may have to use a deodorizing shampoo. If the skin is dry or flaky, a soothing oatmeal shampoo would be a good choice, leaving the lather on for ten minutes before rinsing. If the puppy has fleas, for safety’s sake use a natural flea shampoo rather than harsh chemicals to get rid of those unwelcome visitors. Do not use shampoos made for humans; they have a different pH level and often contain harsher detergents than quality pet products.

No matter which shampoo you use, be sure to keep the lather out of the puppy’s eyes. I like to wash and rinse the face with a washcloth so spraying that area won’t be necessary. Always rinse very thoroughly as any shampoo left in the coat will cause dryness and itching. If you start bathing puppies when they are young, bath time will be a normal experience in their lives, not a traumatic experience.

How to Bathe a Puppy for the First Time

It's completely natural and expected for puppies to get dirty very easily, but it's disgusting when they look and smell awful. When you finally decide it's time to give your puppy a bath, many questions and concerns may come to your mind - you most definitely wouldn't want to do the wrong thing and hurt your puppy! Fortunately for you, this article will teach you all the basic steps to bathing a puppy for the first time - plus, there are little tips and tricks to make bath time an enjoyable moment for both you and the puppy!

Preparation

1 Prepare your puppy by playing with it in the bath or sink without water a few times, giving treats and generally making it a fun place to be. Let them sniff everything — they won't be comfortable until they've done so!

2 Play with them with a little bit of water in the bath. Get them used to splashes, the sound of the water running, the bowl or jug, the sensation of water, and the noise of the shower head or faucet.

3 Buy dog shampoo from a pet store. Let your dog get used to the smell, even if they will probably always hate it!

Human shampoo is not acceptable or desirable for bathing puppies or dogs because the pH (acid/alkaline balance) of dog skin is different from the human pH level.

4 If the puppy is very small, bathe it in the kitchen sink. That will be more comfortable for you and it as well.

5 Place a clean wet wash cloth on the bottom of the sink/bath so the pup won't slip.

6 Unless you want the puppy to think of bath time as an unpleasant, noisy time, bathe the puppy without children in the house. They will giggle and screech and this will stress out your puppy! Don't let anyone tease the puppy about the bath or it will learn that bathing is something to be feared!

7 Properly relax! Put on some calming, quiet music to soothe you. This is for you - not the dog. If you are stressed, your puppy will pick up on your stress! To the puppy, you are pack leader - if you are calm the puppy will be calm(er). To make it easier for the both of you, do whatever it takes to wind down and be relaxed.

8 Dress in comfortable clothes that need to be washed. Expect them to get wet and possibly dirty, as there may be wet cuddles and frequent shakes from the puppy involved. Your bathroom may also get wet, so be prepared for that.

9 Think ahead and try to prevent any distractions that may occur while you're bathing the puppy. If those distractions turn out to be unavoidable, ignore them. Such distractions can be the phone, door or oven - you should never leave a young creature or any kind of animal in the water unsupervised!

10 Make sure the house, and the bathroom particularly, is warm.

11 Dogs feel heat more strongly than humans do, so run the bath water about 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

12 Test the water the way you would a baby bath, using your wrist or elbow. If it feels warm enough for your bath, it's too hot for the puppy! The water should be about half the dog's height, as you do not want it to drown.

13 Once you have filled your bathtub or whatever you're planning to wash your puppy in, fetch a plastic bowl or jug. Also, bring some treats along but keep them out of the splash zone - you may need them to calm the puppy down!

14 Make sure the puppy has gone to the toilet recently - if not, all that water could be too much excitement for it!

15 When you're ready, clear your mind again and call the puppy. Puppies seem to have an innate ability to sense when they are getting a bath (they are picking up keys from you), so they might run and hide. Patiently and slowly pursue them if necessary. This is easy if you have tired them out with a walk first! If you can pull off lazy indifference, you'll have more success.

16 One in the bathroom, close the door so that your puppy will be unable to escape. Before bath time, have some cuddles with your puppy so that it's relaxed.

Bath Time

1 Gently immerse the puppy into the water, keeping the head above the water but getting the body wet all over. Talk soothingly, giving it treats and praise.

2 Pour a little bit of shampoo into a cupped hand and work it in with your fingers. A little shampoo goes a long way - you don't want to be rinsing it out of your puppy's fur forever! It's easier to add more than take it off.

3 Don't forget to wash the tail!

4 Keep a soothing hand on top of the puppy's back when washing the legs and tummy, or your puppy may try to leap out of the water! Be careful when washing the legs, for if your puppy twists the wrong way, it could end up getting hurt.

5 When you have the body all soaped up and worked into the coat, rinse thoroughly in a normal patting motion. If necessary, drain out the soapy water and refill the sink with clean water to rinse away the soap - but bear in mind your puppy might get cold and start shivering, which you don't want. If you have a shower head where the water comes at a constant heat (not too hot) and pressure, this can be useful for the puppy's body, but keep the puppy close and don't let it splash too much.

6 It is very important that all the soap is removed from the coat. Not only will it taste bad if the puppy licks some by mistake, but it can also be harmful for the puppy!

7 Using the jug or plastic bowl you fetched earlier, gently pour warm water over the puppy's head - from behind the skull and avoiding the face. While you're doing this, tip the puppy's nose up so that the water runs down and over the body, away from the nose and eyes.

8 There is usually no need to wash a dog's head unless it is visibly dirty or considerably smelly! It is normal and right for a puppy to have a light dog smell. If you do find that it's necessary to wash your puppy's head, follow the steps below:

Squeeze a tiny amount of shampoo onto your hand and gently lather. Work this the ears and neck and under the chin, avoiding the eyes and mouth.

Rinse the head twice with warm water from the cup, again pouring from back of the skull to front, as before. Give the head a little smell - it should smell pleasantly of wet dog with just a hint of the shampoo.

Towel dry the head and face. Make a fuss over the puppy with lots of praise.

The reason to wash the head last is because water on the head results in automatic shaking of the whole body. Since the pup is secured in a towel while you wash the head, you avoid having water sprayed all over the house when the head gets wet.

9 Once your are finished washing your puppy, remove it from the basin and wrap it well in a towel, leaving its head exposed.

10 Never dry your puppy with a hairdryer! It is very easy to burn a puppy with a hairdryer. Instead, use an old ugly towel (you might want to make this your dedicated dog towel) and dry as thoroughly as possible. If you make enough of a fuss, your puppy will enjoy bath time because it gets to have cuddle time!

11 Keep the puppy inside in warm rooms; don't let it go out as soon as its bath time is finished. Close off the door to other rooms such as bedrooms and the kitchen, for it probably will run around and shake water off - this is to be expected! It's easiest to embrace this as part of puppy life.

Tips

• Be very gentle with the puppy, since it's the first time.
• Don't bathe the puppy unless he is dirty or very smelly.
• Too much bathing will strip the protective oils from the puppy's coat.
• Don't be surprised if you see dandruff on the puppy's fur while you dry and brush it. Dandruff is a normal reaction to a stressful situation and means nothing, so don't panic!
• Make very sure that the water is not too hot, but also that it's not way too cold.

Warnings

Don't promptly dump the puppy into the water. Let it explore it a little bit first before gently setting it into the water.

Don't leave the puppy alone in the water without supervision, as this can result in a mess or the puppy drowning.

Never be rough or hurt the puppy in any way. Since it's the puppy's first bath, the natural reaction is for it to be surprised and scared.

Things You'll Need

• A sink or anything that's not too big for the puppy
• Treats
• Dog shampoo
• A bowl or anything else you can fill with water
• Old clean towels