DOG CRATE TRAINING

Is it cruel to lock my dog in a crate or cage?
Many people think this is true, as they would certainly not want to be locked in a crate (note that dog crate and dog cage are the same thing) for any length of time themselves. Well, this is not the case for dogs who are 'den' animals. Just look at where they want to spend most of their sleep and relaxation time - under the table, tucked in the corner of a room. In the wild, wolves and wild dogs are known to burrow holes to sleep in.

Hopefully you are getting the picture, basically dogs like to feel safe and secure when sleeping and have somewhere they can be alone. A dog crate is able to provide this safe haven.

Why use a dog crate / cage anyway?
A crate helps address many of the problems that cause stress and anxiety to pet owners. They serve a useful purpose to prevent (and rectify) problems associated with destructive behaviour and fear of strangers or other types of people. They help with house training, with visitors who are afraid of dogs and of course when travelling with your dog.

Where should I put the dog crate?
The best places for a crate or cage are in the corner of rooms, away from too much heat and cold drafts. Dogs like to be near their pack (which is you), so locate the crate where your dog can see and hear you. It's a good idea for the crate to be your dog's only bed.

What do I look for in a dog crate / cage?
A dog crate is a usually a rectangular enclosure constructed of wire, plastic, canvas or even wood. Some people prefer to start out with a wire crate as these are less prone to being chewed in the early days of crate training.

Size: Whichever type of dog crate / cage you get, they should be large enough to allow your dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting their head on the top. Also remember that a dog crate that is too large defeats the purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control.
Materials: avoid cheap thin wire crates they are not worth it! They are more prone to collapsing accidents and dogs can easily chew the wires together making for an unsighly crate.
Dividers: If you are purchasing a crate that is large enough for your dog when fully grown block off part of it initially, so that your dog feels snug and secure. Adjustable crate dividers are perfect for this.
Cover: It is also a good idea to have a cover to darken the inside of the dog crate, this helps to settle your dog and make it less likely for him to be disturbed by distraction outside. Covers can either be a blanket or better still vinyl covers that are easy to keep clean and are not a heaven for fleas. Whichever you choose, make sure your dog’s crate has plenty of ventilation and is not in direct sunlight
Bedding: We always recommend that the bed covers the entire dog crate (i.e. do not leave an area for soiling). This helps build bowl control as your puppy will not want to soil his or her bed. You will have accidents though, so it is a good idea to have a couple of machine washable beds on hand.
Water: Your dog should always have access to water, so we think a good quality clip on crate bowl is essentail.

When should crate / cage training start?
It is best to start crate training when your dog is still a puppy. That's not to say you cannot train an older dog, it just takes a little longer.

How long should I use a crate / cage?
Plan to use the crate until the puppy is ten or twelve months old, well past the chewing stage. You will not need to continue crating once your dog becomes an adult (and is trustworthy), but your dog will probably enjoy the continued use of the crate as its own special place. If you decide not to keep the crate, slowly wean your dog off it.

Crates are not just for puppies, they are also a valuable tool to help solve behavioural problems in adolescent and more mature dogs. Acclimatising older dogs is a lot harder and will require more patience. If you plan to travel a lot with your dog, it may well be worth continued use of the crate.

How do I acclimatise my dog to the crate / cage?
You can't lock your dog in a crate and just expect the whole concept to work - it won't. You will need time and patience to introduce the crate to successfully ensure your dog sees it as its home and special place. Here are a few guidelines:

• Start by leaving the crate door open, and place all your dog’s toys just inside the door. Hence if they want a toy they will have to climb into the crate a bit and retrieve it. You can also use special treats as a further encouragement to enter the crate. Day by day, move the toys or treats further back. It will only take a day or two before your dog starts to go into the crate to lie down.
• After a few days of napping and sleeping in the open crate, quietly close the door (preferably while your dog is asleep) and leave it closed for a few minutes or until they wake up. Once awake, open the door, praise them and release them from the crate.
• Gradually build up the amount of time the crate door is kept closed. Eventually, you will be able to stay in the room, with the door closed, and your dog will lie there quietly until they fall asleep.
• Once this is comfortable for your dog, leave the house, and then return immediately. Move on to leaving your dog for longer and longer periods of time (3 minutes, 5 minutes, 7 minutes, 1/2 an hour, and so on), until you do not hear any barking or crying at any point.
• Continue increasing the time and work on trying to get a fixed routine of leaving the house (i.e. picking up your keys, putting your coat on etc)

After acclimatisation, then what?

Put your dog in its crate at regular intervals during the day up to a maximum of 2 hours.
Don't crate only when you are leaving the house. Place the dog in the crate while you are home as well. Use it as a "safe" zone (thus keeping your sanity).
By crating when you are home AND while you are gone, your dog becomes comfortable in the crate and not worried that you will not return, or that you are leaving him/her alone. This helps to prevent separation anxiety later in life.
Give your dog a chew toy for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tags which could become caught in an opening.
Make it very clear to children that the crate is NOT a playhouse for them, but a "special room" for the dog,
Although the crate is your dog's haven and safe place, it must not be off-limits to humans. Acclimatise your dog from the outset to letting you reach inside at anytime.
Do not let the dog out of the crate while they are barking or they will think that barking is the key to opening the door to the crate. Wait until the barking or whining has stopped for at least 10 seconds before letting them out.
Finally, but most importantly: NEVER USE THE CRATE AS A PUNISHMENT AND NEVER DISCIPLINE YOUR DOG WHILST IN THE CRATE - it is their haven, a place of safety and security and should not be associated with any negative experiences.

Should I allow them to soil their crate?
Most dogs and puppies will not soil their "den", but you should ensure you walk your puppy outside every 1-2 hours. However, accidents will happen, particularly during the night. To minimise this, take them out just before bedtime and first thing early in the morning. If you hear whining during the night, get up and take them outside.

Do not punish the dog if it soils the crate. Remember, a new puppy needs to go out every 1-2 hours. This includes after feeding time, upon waking up, after play sessions and whenever you see them sniffing the floor.

Immediately clean any accidents in the crate with a specialised odour remover cleaner. Do not use ammonia-based cleaners as these will attract further soiling due to their similarity in smelling like urine.

Crate Training

"Private room with a view. Ideal for traveling dogs or for those who just want a secure, quiet place to hang out at home."

That's how your dog might describe his crate. It's his own personal den where he can find comfort and solitude while you know he's safe and secure—and not shredding your house while you're out running errands.

Crating philosophy

Crate training uses a dog's natural instincts as a den animal. A wild dog's den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family. The crate becomes your dog's den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm.

The primary use for a crate is housetraining. Dogs don't like to soil their dens.

The crate can limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other rules, like not to chew on furniture.

Crates are a safe way to transport your dog in the car.

Crating caution!

A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated.

Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.

Don't leave your dog in the crate too long. A dog that’s crated day and night doesn't get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious. You may have to change your schedule, hire a pet sitter, or take your dog to a doggie daycare facility to reduce the amount of time he must spend in his crate every day.

Puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders and bowels for that long. The same goes for adult dogs that are being housetrained. Physically, they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to.

Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily.

Selecting a crate

Several types of crates are available:

Plastic (often called "flight kennels")

Fabric on a collapsible, rigid frame

Collapsible, metal pens

Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores or pet supply catalogs.

Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other. Your local animal shelter may rent out crates. By renting, you can trade up to the appropriate size for your puppy until he’s reached his adult size, when you can invest in a permanent crate.

The crate training process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training:

The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.

Training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.

Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at his leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them:

Bring him over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten him.

Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force him to enter.

Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feed your dog his meals in the crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.

If he remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.

Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating.

If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, don’t let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he'll keep doing it.

Step 3: Lengthen the crating periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you're home.

Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.

Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.

After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door.

Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let him out of the crate.

Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of his sight.

Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave

After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house.

Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate.

Vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.

Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly.

When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.

Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation.

Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Potential problems

Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

Bathing and Shampooing Your Dog

* Do not bathe your dog too often because that will dry out the skin, deplete healthy oils from the coat and skin, and lead to scratching and irritation. Frequency is largely dependent on the breed and activities of the dog. Dogs who spend a lot of time outside or engage in outdoor activities that expose them to dirt, bugs and/or debris typically require more bathing, perhaps every 6 weeks or more frequently. Some groomers recommend bathing double-coated breeds only about 3 times a year and suggest that smooth-coated dogs can go a lot longer between baths than can curly-coated breeds such as poodles. Too frequent bathing can cause the coat to soften and reduce its insulating qualities.

* To keep your dog clean between baths, brush vigorously and regularly -- preferably daily. This is good for the coat and skin, and helps the dog look and smell good. If you are allergic to your pet, wear a mask when you brush...brush outdoors or onto a newspaper indoors to aid in clean up...and wash hands afterwards.

* Remember that after being indoors during the colder months, a dog's fur and skin can become dry. And if your dog grows an undercoat, you need to comb it out in warmer weather. If a dog�s fur gets matted, the skin cannot breathe -- compelling the dog to scratch and pull out fur, which can result in sores.

* Wait until a puppy is more than five weeks old before giving him his first bath.

Preparing your puppy or dog for his first bath:

* Things will go more smoothly if you introduce your pet to the idea of bathing before actually giving him his first bath.

* Help your dog learn to trust you through such actions as touching the paws, handling the ears and opening the mouth several times a day. Praise positive responses and consider reinforcing good behavior with small treats.

* Let the dog sniff grooming tools such as his comb, brush, clippers and tooth brush. As the dog becomes less timid and more accepting of the items, praise and if food-motivated, supplement the positive reinforcement with treats.

* Let your dog get accustomed to the sound of running water. You can reinforce calm behavior and build a positive association by using verbal praise and treats.

* If you plan to use a dryer, slowly introduce the dog to the dryer. Pet dryers are recommended over human blow dryers.

* If you think the dog will balk at his first bath, you might want to have someone help you the first time. You want to make your dog�s first bath to be a good experience so that he will be accepting of future baths.

Before the bath:

* Brush thoroughly and remove all tangles and mats, which you won�t be able to unsnarl when the fur is wet. For badly matted fur, you may have to snip mats with scissors. Proceed with caution; it is easy to nick the dog�s skin, and you do not want to do that.

* If the dog has any ticks, foxtails or other embedded items, remove them carefully. Typically, you will use tweezers. For details about fleas, ticks, insect stings and skin conditions, see the web links listed at the end of this tipsheet.

* If there is paint, tar, pine sap or other sticky substance caught in the fur, try to soften and remove it with petroleum jelly, or soak the area with vegetable oil or mineral oil for 24 hours. Some people have also had success removing sticky and oily substances with Dawn liquid dishwashing detergent. If these techniques do not work, trim away the affected fur. Do not use solvent, paint stripper, concentrated detergent, or fabric softener on dogs, since these substances are toxic when ingested and can also hurt the skin.

* It�s a good idea to trim and file a dog�s nails before a bath, especially if the dog might claw or scratch the floor, tub or you in an attempt to get away.

* You�ll get wet, so wear a smock or old comfortable clothes.

* Pick a suitable location for the bath, such as a room with a closed door. This will prevent the dog from escaping and will also keep the rest of your house from getting sprayed with water. Prepare the room by removing items that could be damaged by water and any items that could injure you or the dog as you move around. You can line the floor and other surfaces with a plastic sheet, an old shower curtain, large cut-open trash bags or sheet.

* Gather your supplies: shampoo, brushes (you may want to use a shampooing brush), comb, washcloth and/or sponge, towels, cotton balls, mineral oil, petroleum jelly...and detangler and moisturizer if you use them. A soft brush is helpful in cleaning around paws. You can place the items in a plastic bucket for easy carrying and access...and open bottle caps beforehand so that you do not have to wrestle with caps while holding onto your dog. You may wish to put a few small tasty treats in a plastic baggie so that you can reward your dog for good, calm behavior.

* A detachable shower spray nozzle makes washing and rinsing much easier. You can find shower hose attachments at home improvement stores. Many attach right behind your regular showerhead.

* If you don�t have a shower spray nozzle, get a pitcher.

* Remove the dog�s regular collar. To help you restrain the dog during the bath, you can use a nylon collar and nylon leash. Do not use leather in the water, since the water can cause the leather to shrink and to leak dye on your dog�s fur. Many groomers recommend using a bathing tether when bathing dogs in tubs.

* If your dog tends to bite when confronted with a bath, you might want to use a muzzle.

* Shampoo. Use a shampoo formulated for dogs, and one that is gentle and will not strip the natural oils of the dog�s coat. Do not use human shampoo, which is not the right pH for doggie fur and skin. Read the directions, and be aware that some shampoos and soaps are not appropriate for all ages or types of dogs. Oatmeal shampoos are good for dogs with itchy skin. Many people use dog shampoos containing chlorhexidine, which has anti-bacterial qualities. Avoid shampoos with insecticides, since the chemicals can be harsh. If your dog has fleas, use a gentle shampoo containing pyrethrin, pyrethrum or citrus oil.

* Here�s a gentle homemade shampoo for pups and dogs with extra dry or troubled skin. Mix 1/3 cup glycerin, 1 cup lemon Liquid Joy, 1 cup white vinegar, and 1 quart water in a liter bottle. Shake the solution before each use to mix thoroughly.

* Use a saline or weak salt and water mix to cotton swab around your dog�s eyes to clean away debris.

* To protect your dog�s eyes from bath water and soap, apply some petroleum jelly or mineral oil around the eyes. In addition, put a drop of mineral oil in each eye to protect against irritation.

* Put a cotton ball in each ear to keep water out. Make sure the cotton ball is large enough that it does not get caught in the ear canal.

* You might want to wipe around the dog�s anal area with a baby wipe or wet-nap before the bath, and/or clip long soil-prone fur beneath the tail around the anus.

* Choose a tub or basin that is not too deep.

* Smaller dogs can be bathed in the kind of rubber storage bin available at discount stores. Some folks with little dogs use two basins: one for bathing and the other for rinsing. Metal washtubs are available from agriculture supply merchants.

* Place a nonskid rubber mat in the basin or tub. This will prevent slipping and make the dog feel more secure.

* Choose a warm, draft-free place to bathe and dry the dog.

* While some people have bathed dogs with garden hoses, there are drawbacks such as the water being too cold, the outside air being too cold or windy, and the hose frightening the dog.

During the bath:

* Make sure water is warm but not hot. Then, fill the water to knee level.

* If you plan to use a nylon collar and leash to stablize your dog during bathing, put them on now.

* Lift your dog and place in the tub. Be sure to lift in a way that will not hurt your back. For example...place one arm under the chest in front of the dog's front legs, and place the other arm behind the rear legs and under the tail. Stay fairly upright and lift with your legs -- not with your back. For a heavy dog, have someone help with lifting the dog into and out of the tub.

* Get your dog used to the water by spraying his back and shoulders. Keep the spray on low. (Remember, scaring or hurting your dog will increase his resistance to being bathed in the future.) Be gentle, work gradually, and give the dog time to acclimate. Try to keep the spray nozzle about an inch from the dog so that the water efficiently penetrates the fur.

* After your dog relaxes, wash his head. Never spray water directly in a dog�s face. Slightly lift his face so that the water runs down the back of the head. Use your fingers, a washcloth or sponge to move the water around the eyes, nose, and mouth.

* Lather up the body with shampoo. You can apply a line of shampoo along the dog�s back and back of the head. Massage the suds all the way down to the skin.

* Some experts suggest shampooing the body, then toward his rear end and then the head last. Other experts suggest starting with the head and neck to prevent fleas from moving up the body to the head. In any case, avoid getting soap in the dog�s eyes.

* You can use a rubber brush on a dog with shorter hair to help work the shampoo into the coat. The rubber brush can also be used to remove debris clinging to hair. For dogs with long hair, massage the coat in the direction of hair growth to avoid tangles.

* Work the suds down and under the tail, the underside, legs and all around the paws. And remember to clean under the neck, in facial wrinkles and ear flaps. A soft brush is useful for cleaning around the paw pads and other small areas.

* If the dog�s ears stand up, cup your hand over the ear opening while washing and rinsing.

* Remember, you can reward good behavior by giving your dog a few treats during the bath.

* After thoroughly lathering, rinse the dog with lukewarm, never hot, water. A detachable shower spray nozzle is most convenient. Check the temperature and make sure the spray is not too strong before aiming at the dog. Or use a large pitcher.

* Gently rinse the dog�s face and head first. Cover his eyes with one hand and rinse the top of the head and around the eyes. Next, cover the nose and rinse the rest of the face and neck. Work down the body.

* If the dog is rather dirty, you can repeat the lathering and rinsing steps.

* Rinse until the water runs clear so that no dirt or soap residue remains. Otherwise, the residue can lead to skin irritation or allergic reactions. The pet may also ingest the residue when licking himself. Knead the fur with your hand to help remove soap.

* Mist dog�s coat with a detangler spray for easier combing after the bath. You can also apply a moisturizer.

After the bath:

* Depending on the dog�s coat, use your hands to squeeze excess water from his fur. Start by squeezing water from the tail and paws.

* Wrap the dog in a large, absorbent towel. Gently rub him dry. If he has long hair, avoid heavy rubbing that can tangle the fur; blot instead.

* Remove cotton balls and towel out the remaining moisture in the ears. Moisture left in the ears can lead to infections.

* If your dog has urinary accidents, place a towel under her when drying to absorb any urine released.

* You can let him help by letting him shake his fur.

* If you prefer, you can also use a pet dryer or blow dryer on a low setting. Dryers are often preferable to towel-drying for dogs with frizzy or long fur. FYI, pet dryers are better suited to dog fur than are human blow dryers. Never aim a dryer at a dog�s face. And never use overly warm or hot air, which can dry out the skin and even burn the dog. Use a low setting.

* If using an automated dryer that hangs on the front of a crate, test the temperature before aiming it at the dog, and check on the animal at least every 10 to 15 minutes for safety reasons. * Do not let the dog outside in cool or cold weather until he is completely dry.

Between baths:

* Brush and comb daily. Check for fleas, ticks, debris, foxtails and skin conditions.

* To give your pet a waterless bath, sprinkle on baking soda and brush off the excess.

* And remember, you can also have a professional groom and bathe your dog.

Washing your puppy

How you wash your dog will largely be determined by his breed. But sooner or later, you’re going to have to do it; we’ll explain how:
Wet, wet, wet!

There are two major points to consider when bathing your dog; how often to do it, and how to go about it.
How often?

‘Not too often,’ is the short answer. A dog’s coat needs its natural oils to remain soft and silky and to keep from getting brittle or damaged. If you bathe your dog too often (every week, for example), you will strip away those oils.

A good rule of thumb is to only bathe your dog when he is noticeably dirty or smelly. However, the time between baths will vary from dog to dog (a long-haired dog will get tangled and matted hair if he goes too long between baths), and may also change from one time of year to another.

How to wash your dog – a few tips

• Start young. This will help your dog get used to the process.
• Make it fun and praise your dog throughout.
• Select a location for the wash to take place based on breed size and time of year. A sink or a washtub works fine for puppies and small dogs, whereas big dogs need the bathtub. If it's warm outside, use a hose.
• Put a rubber mat in the bottom of your tub. Your dog will feel more secure if he isn’t slipping all over the place.
• Before starting, gather all the things you need – shampoo, towels, possibly a bucket… Don’t turn your back on a wet dog unless you want to be involved in a chase!
• Make sure the water is lukewarm.
• Only use shampoo that has been formulated specifically for dogs – and if possible, make it a tearless shampoo.
• Avoid getting water or soap in your dog’s eyes and ears.
• Wet your dog’s head last – this will minimise his desire to shake.
• Rinse well. The flaky, itchy discomfort many dogs experience after a bath comes from inadequate shampoo removal (or sometimes by too-frequent bathing).
• In the winter, keep your dog inside until dry. A blow dryer, set on warm or cool – never hot – to avoid burning, can speed things along.
• Dogs love a good shake to remove excess water. A shake starts at the dog’s head, so if you hold his head still, shaking will be limited. Tossing a towel over your dog immediately after the bath is done can prevent too much water on the walls. If you want to avoid getting an unwanted shower entirely, teach your dog to shake on command. This takes a little patience and training, but it’s possible.
• Once you’ve finished washing your dog, tell them to sit/stay. If he starts to shake, quickly guide him back into his sit. Resume sit/stay and get out of the way. Tell him to shake and praise, praise, praise.

Did you know?
Bathing is a good opportunity to check your dog’s skin. Feel all over for lumps or rough areas. Contact your vet if you find any. Keeping puppy well groomed is an essential part of living together happily.

When to Start Bathing a Puppy

Q. When can I start giving my puppies baths?

A. Although the mother dog performs lots of canine hygiene chores by licking her puppies clean, sometimes they get awfully dirty from poop, newsprint if they are being paper-trained, dog food, or just plain dirt. Most times, all you need to do is sponge them off with a warm moist washcloth or a disposable wipe, but sometimes only a bath will do.

Even if they are just a few weeks old, if you do it carefully, you can safely bathe them. In fact, if your puppies are a breed that will require professional grooming, it’s a good idea to get them used to the bathing process early on. It’s also important to instruct new owners on the proper way to bathe a puppy before they go to a new home. 

Bathing a young puppy is not much different than bathing a human baby. First and foremost, you need to keep them warm when they are bathed: a warm room, warm water that is comfortable on your own skin, nice fluffy towels, and warm air – not hot – from a blow dryer if they are full-coated and need blow drying. Of course, you should never allow them to go outdoors if they are damp. Not only could they catch a chill, they just might roll in whatever is handy, including grass, gravel, and mud, undoing all of your work in the process.

Fluffy-coated puppies need to be brushed thoroughly before they are bathed. Water adds volume to mats and tangles, tightening them up during the bathing process. Most puppies can be bathed right in the kitchen sink. Place them on a rubber mat to prevent slipping and using the dish-spray hose or a hand-held shampoo attachment used for travel, wet them down from the back end with a gentle spray so they won’t panic. 

In most cases, a puppy tearless shampoo works best, but if your baby is really stinky, you may have to use a deodorizing shampoo. If the skin is dry or flaky, a soothing oatmeal shampoo would be a good choice, leaving the lather on for ten minutes before rinsing. If the puppy has fleas, for safety’s sake use a natural flea shampoo rather than harsh chemicals to get rid of those unwelcome visitors. Do not use shampoos made for humans; they have a different pH level and often contain harsher detergents than quality pet products.

No matter which shampoo you use, be sure to keep the lather out of the puppy’s eyes. I like to wash and rinse the face with a washcloth so spraying that area won’t be necessary. Always rinse very thoroughly as any shampoo left in the coat will cause dryness and itching. If you start bathing puppies when they are young, bath time will be a normal experience in their lives, not a traumatic experience.

How to Bathe a Puppy for the First Time

It's completely natural and expected for puppies to get dirty very easily, but it's disgusting when they look and smell awful. When you finally decide it's time to give your puppy a bath, many questions and concerns may come to your mind - you most definitely wouldn't want to do the wrong thing and hurt your puppy! Fortunately for you, this article will teach you all the basic steps to bathing a puppy for the first time - plus, there are little tips and tricks to make bath time an enjoyable moment for both you and the puppy!

Preparation

1 Prepare your puppy by playing with it in the bath or sink without water a few times, giving treats and generally making it a fun place to be. Let them sniff everything — they won't be comfortable until they've done so!

2 Play with them with a little bit of water in the bath. Get them used to splashes, the sound of the water running, the bowl or jug, the sensation of water, and the noise of the shower head or faucet.

3 Buy dog shampoo from a pet store. Let your dog get used to the smell, even if they will probably always hate it!

Human shampoo is not acceptable or desirable for bathing puppies or dogs because the pH (acid/alkaline balance) of dog skin is different from the human pH level.

4 If the puppy is very small, bathe it in the kitchen sink. That will be more comfortable for you and it as well.

5 Place a clean wet wash cloth on the bottom of the sink/bath so the pup won't slip.

6 Unless you want the puppy to think of bath time as an unpleasant, noisy time, bathe the puppy without children in the house. They will giggle and screech and this will stress out your puppy! Don't let anyone tease the puppy about the bath or it will learn that bathing is something to be feared!

7 Properly relax! Put on some calming, quiet music to soothe you. This is for you - not the dog. If you are stressed, your puppy will pick up on your stress! To the puppy, you are pack leader - if you are calm the puppy will be calm(er). To make it easier for the both of you, do whatever it takes to wind down and be relaxed.

8 Dress in comfortable clothes that need to be washed. Expect them to get wet and possibly dirty, as there may be wet cuddles and frequent shakes from the puppy involved. Your bathroom may also get wet, so be prepared for that.

9 Think ahead and try to prevent any distractions that may occur while you're bathing the puppy. If those distractions turn out to be unavoidable, ignore them. Such distractions can be the phone, door or oven - you should never leave a young creature or any kind of animal in the water unsupervised!

10 Make sure the house, and the bathroom particularly, is warm.

11 Dogs feel heat more strongly than humans do, so run the bath water about 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

12 Test the water the way you would a baby bath, using your wrist or elbow. If it feels warm enough for your bath, it's too hot for the puppy! The water should be about half the dog's height, as you do not want it to drown.

13 Once you have filled your bathtub or whatever you're planning to wash your puppy in, fetch a plastic bowl or jug. Also, bring some treats along but keep them out of the splash zone - you may need them to calm the puppy down!

14 Make sure the puppy has gone to the toilet recently - if not, all that water could be too much excitement for it!

15 When you're ready, clear your mind again and call the puppy. Puppies seem to have an innate ability to sense when they are getting a bath (they are picking up keys from you), so they might run and hide. Patiently and slowly pursue them if necessary. This is easy if you have tired them out with a walk first! If you can pull off lazy indifference, you'll have more success.

16 One in the bathroom, close the door so that your puppy will be unable to escape. Before bath time, have some cuddles with your puppy so that it's relaxed.

Bath Time

1 Gently immerse the puppy into the water, keeping the head above the water but getting the body wet all over. Talk soothingly, giving it treats and praise.

2 Pour a little bit of shampoo into a cupped hand and work it in with your fingers. A little shampoo goes a long way - you don't want to be rinsing it out of your puppy's fur forever! It's easier to add more than take it off.

3 Don't forget to wash the tail!

4 Keep a soothing hand on top of the puppy's back when washing the legs and tummy, or your puppy may try to leap out of the water! Be careful when washing the legs, for if your puppy twists the wrong way, it could end up getting hurt.

5 When you have the body all soaped up and worked into the coat, rinse thoroughly in a normal patting motion. If necessary, drain out the soapy water and refill the sink with clean water to rinse away the soap - but bear in mind your puppy might get cold and start shivering, which you don't want. If you have a shower head where the water comes at a constant heat (not too hot) and pressure, this can be useful for the puppy's body, but keep the puppy close and don't let it splash too much.

6 It is very important that all the soap is removed from the coat. Not only will it taste bad if the puppy licks some by mistake, but it can also be harmful for the puppy!

7 Using the jug or plastic bowl you fetched earlier, gently pour warm water over the puppy's head - from behind the skull and avoiding the face. While you're doing this, tip the puppy's nose up so that the water runs down and over the body, away from the nose and eyes.

8 There is usually no need to wash a dog's head unless it is visibly dirty or considerably smelly! It is normal and right for a puppy to have a light dog smell. If you do find that it's necessary to wash your puppy's head, follow the steps below:

Squeeze a tiny amount of shampoo onto your hand and gently lather. Work this the ears and neck and under the chin, avoiding the eyes and mouth.

Rinse the head twice with warm water from the cup, again pouring from back of the skull to front, as before. Give the head a little smell - it should smell pleasantly of wet dog with just a hint of the shampoo.

Towel dry the head and face. Make a fuss over the puppy with lots of praise.

The reason to wash the head last is because water on the head results in automatic shaking of the whole body. Since the pup is secured in a towel while you wash the head, you avoid having water sprayed all over the house when the head gets wet.

9 Once your are finished washing your puppy, remove it from the basin and wrap it well in a towel, leaving its head exposed.

10 Never dry your puppy with a hairdryer! It is very easy to burn a puppy with a hairdryer. Instead, use an old ugly towel (you might want to make this your dedicated dog towel) and dry as thoroughly as possible. If you make enough of a fuss, your puppy will enjoy bath time because it gets to have cuddle time!

11 Keep the puppy inside in warm rooms; don't let it go out as soon as its bath time is finished. Close off the door to other rooms such as bedrooms and the kitchen, for it probably will run around and shake water off - this is to be expected! It's easiest to embrace this as part of puppy life.

Tips

• Be very gentle with the puppy, since it's the first time.
• Don't bathe the puppy unless he is dirty or very smelly.
• Too much bathing will strip the protective oils from the puppy's coat.
• Don't be surprised if you see dandruff on the puppy's fur while you dry and brush it. Dandruff is a normal reaction to a stressful situation and means nothing, so don't panic!
• Make very sure that the water is not too hot, but also that it's not way too cold.

Warnings

Don't promptly dump the puppy into the water. Let it explore it a little bit first before gently setting it into the water.

Don't leave the puppy alone in the water without supervision, as this can result in a mess or the puppy drowning.

Never be rough or hurt the puppy in any way. Since it's the puppy's first bath, the natural reaction is for it to be surprised and scared.

Things You'll Need

• A sink or anything that's not too big for the puppy
• Treats
• Dog shampoo
• A bowl or anything else you can fill with water
• Old clean towels

How to Choose the Right Dog for You

Are you thinking of getting a dog? Choosing to bring a new dog into your life is a major decision. Be sure you are ready for a dogbefore you start the process. It is also essential that you understand the cost of dog ownership. If you have decided that the time is right, congratulations! Now it is time to figure out what type of dog is right for you. There are several factors to consider before choosing a dog. Most importantly, examine your current lifestyle and consider what adjustments you are willing to make for a dog. Look at the needs of your family – especially if you have children or other pets. People with allergies, or those who prefer low-shedding dogs, might want to look into hypoallergenic dog breeds. Next, think about the ideal size, energy level and age of your new dog. Then, determine where to get your new dog. Just remember that getting a dog requires a firm commitment to responsible dog ownership. Here are some tips to help you choose the best dog for you and your family.

Size

You may already know you want a little lap dog that you can carry around. Or, you might have your heart set on a large or giant dog breed. If you cannot decide, then perhaps a medium sized dog is a good choice.

Remember that some small dogs are delicate and vulnerable. Being stepped on or mishandled can cause serious injury. Also, little dogs can be much more sensitive to colder temperatures, so be ready to help keep them warm. Don’t forget that small dogs need obedience training too! Some little dogs can develop “tough dog” attitudes, seemingly to compensate for their small size. Be sure you are prepared for this possibility.

Very large dogs need a bit more space to move around. Big, happy dogs with long, whip-like tails need "wagging space" to avoid tail injury or damage to household objects. Another consideration is expense: the larger the dog, the more expensive things like dog food, dog supplies and medical treatments become. Training is also a key factor here. If you get a large or giant breed puppy that is allowed to act like a lap dog when young, he will grow up to walk all over you – literally!

Activity Level

You probably already know that some dogs have more energy than others. A dog’s activity level is often determined by breed, but it does not mean you can rely on breed alone to determine how energetic your dog could become. Every dog needs routine exercise, regardless of breed or size, so make sure you can to provide this. If you know you can not commit to more than one or two casual walks per day, then you will probably be better off with a lower energy dog, such as a Basset Hound. If you are looking for a dog that can be a jogging partner, agility competitor or “disc dog,” consider a breed like the Border Collie.

Be willing to adjust the amount of exercise and attention you give your dog if necessary. A dog that is barking constantly, digging up your yard, destroying your home, or acting out in some other way is most likely in need of extra activities. Manybehavior problems are the result of excess energy. Unfortunately, many dogs are given up or even euthanized because of a behavior problem that could have easily been avoided with the proper amount of exercise and attention.

Physical Maintenance

Your dog’s appearance has a lot to do with his maintenance needs. All dogs need basic grooming, but certain types need more based on the type of hair coat. If you get a dog with hair that keeps growing, then advanced routine grooming is essential. Most short haired, smooth-coated dogs are major shedders, so be prepared to do some extra cleaning up. Somegrooming tools can help reduce shedding. Be aware that dogs with long, floppy ears are more prone to ear infections and require frequent thorough ear cleanings. In addition, certain types of dogs can do a lot of drooling. Many owners of Mastiffs, Bloodhounds and similar dogs actually carry a “slobber cloth” with them to wipe the drool. If they shake their heads – watch out!

Age

Puppies require the greatest amount of training and attention, especially over the first six months. Be prepared to dedicate much of your time to housebreaking and raising your new puppy. You dog will likely have plenty of accidents in the house and will probably chew your furniture and personal belongings. These problems will gradually resolve with dedicated training, but patience is a must. You should also be aware that your puppy might grow up to be different then you expected, especially if you adopt a mixed-breed dog. This is not necessarily a bad thing, just something to keep in mind.

Adult dogs can be an excellent choice. An adult might be a better choice if you want to have a good idea of the true energy level, attitude, and temperament of your new dog. However, just because the dog is an adult does not mean he is trained, so you should still expect some degree of dedicated training at first. Fortunately, many adult dogs have been trained and socialized to some degree and can easily adjust to their new lives in their forever homes.

Senior dogs should not be forgotten! Welcoming a senior dog into your home can be a wonderful way to bring joy to the golden years of a dog. Unfortunately, senior dogs are less likely to be adopted and often end up living out their lives in shelters or being euthanized. A senior dog can make a wonderful companion if you are looking for a lower energy dog. However, it is important to know that your senior dog needs special attention, more frequent veterinary check-ups and is more likely to develop heath problems that cost time and money to address. Unlike a puppy or adult dog, you must know that you will not have as many years with your senior dog. If you are willing to accept the responsibilities, consider adopting a senior dog. It can be one of the most compassionate things you can do for these precious creatures.

Purebred or Mixed-Breed Dog?

Purebred dogs are undeniably popular. Many people are attracted to a specific dog breed for various reasons. Perhaps you were raised around the breed or have spent a lot of time with the breed in your life. Maybe you really love the way a certain breed looks and acts. Or, you might feel the breed is right for you based upon what you have read or heard about the breed. If you want a purebred dog, be sure you thoroughly research the breed. Determine if you are willing to take on potential challenges with temperament, grooming needs and health problems. Make sure the breed will fit in with your family and lifestyle – including other dogs.

Mixed breed dogs can become wonderful additions to your world. The combination of two or more dog breeds can often balance out their personalities and physical characteristics. Just be sure to expect the unexpected, especially if you adopt a “pound puppy.” There is no way of knowing exactly how your puppy will look when grown up, and you cannot really predict health problems. However, many experts believe that mixed-breed dogs end up with fewer health problems than purebred dogs. Overall they tend to be good-natured and intelligent. Plus, adopting a mixed-breed dog usually means you are saving that dog from euthanasia or a lonely shelter life!

Where to Find Your New Dog

Once you have narrowed down your options, it is time to start looking for your new dog. There are many options out there, but some are better than others. Research the organization or person from whom you will get your new dog to determine if they are reputable. Then, go see the location where the dogs are kept to make sure your new dog comes from a healthy environment. Please consider dog adoption first. Here are some sources to help get you started.

Animal Shelters: These can be great places to look for a new dog. Though lots of dogs in shelters are mixed-breed dogs, many times you can even find a purebred dog! Shelter dogs often have previous training and socialization, though others may unfortunately come from troubled backgrounds. Talk to the shelter staff members and volunteers about each dog you are considering to get an idea of background and personality. You can also try searching online adoption sites like Petfinder.com.

Rescue Organizations: Rescue groups are dedicated to finding the best families for homeless dogs, some are even devoted to specific dog breeds. Most rescue organizations keep their dogs in foster homes until they can find forever homes for them. These foster parents have usually forged a bond with the dogs and can tell you a lot about their history and personalities. Rescue organizations are typically very selective because they care so much about getting their dogs into the right homes, so be prepared to answer a lot of questions.

Reputable Breeders: If you choose to purchase a purebred dog, be certain you find a knowledgeable,experienced breeder with a good reputation – not abackyard breeder or puppy mill. Ask your vet and other dog owners for referrals, or get a referral from a rescue organization recommended by a national kennel club, such as the AKC Breeder Referral Contacts. A responsible breeder should be willing to show you the premises and tell you about the parents’ histories. Be certain that the breeder’s home or kennel is clean and odor-free. The adult dogs and puppies should appear healthy and lively. If you are not comfortable with the breeder, do not purchase a puppy.

Precautionary Notes

Please, do not purchase your dog from a pet store. Tragically, these dogs are often frompuppy mills. Though you might be “saving” the dog from poor conditions, you are supporting a terrible industry that should be put to an end. Some online kennels are actually puppy mills too, so do your research before doing business with an online kennel. Ideally, you should be able to visit the kennel first.

Be careful about getting your dog through newspaper ads and signs with statements like “free to a good home.” Unfortunately, these dogs might come from poor conditions and irresponsible dog owners. Not only might you end up with an unhealthy dog, you may also be encouraging inconsiderate people who do not spay and neuter their pets.

Making Your Final Decision

Once you think you have found the right dog, make sure he appears healthy. He should be bright eyed and lively with a shiny coat and good appetite. If the puppy or dog has special needs of some kind (usually due to physical or temperament issues), make sure you are prepared to handle them. Be aware that dogs or puppies that show signs of aggression, fear or other behavior problems will likely need extra training and attention from you. It does not mean that the dog is any less worthy of a good home, but it is best that you know what you are getting into. It is certainly not good for anyone if you have to return your new dog or puppy to the breeder, shelter or rescue group.

Before bringing your new dog home, you should obtain a new dog/puppy packet from the breeder or adoption group that contains general information about caring for your new dog. Make sure your home is prepared for a new dog. In addition, be sure to bring your new dog to a vet for a general examination right away. If you adopted your dog, know what to expect for the first few weeks. If you are getting a puppy, learn all about proper puppy care.

Congratulations on your new dog - I am sure you and your dog will enjoy a long, happy life together!

Take Care of Puppies

You've finally received what you've been wanting for a long time - a brand new, beautiful and adorable puppy!! But the question is, "How can I take care of my puppy?" If this question is somewhere in your mind, keep on reading for helpful tips on how to take care of and raise your puppy. Remember, this page is for people who have just adopted, purchased or found a new eight week old or older puppy. Pups are usually weaned at 8-weeks and it is unhealthy for them to be taken away from their mother before that age. When you get a puppy you should give the new pup as much attention as possible. If he/she has a training problem do not result into physical pain take them to training school. When they are out, play with them a lot and that`s how you take care of your puppy.

Bringing the Puppy Home

 

1 Make sure that the puppy you are getting is right for you. Does its coat suit your climate? Is it small enough to live in your apartment? Do its energy levels suit the amount of exercise it will get? These are all important questions to answer to ensure the well-being of your puppy and the overall happiness of your household.

2 Puppy-proof your house. Puppies love to explore with their mouths, so to keep your puppy and your house safe, you'll need to take a few precautions. Remove breakable items from the area where you plan to keep your puppy. Keep all electrical cords raised or covered and close all low windows. You should also lock away cleaning supplies/chemicals that are toxic to puppies. Get a trash can that is too tall for your puppy to get into and too heavy to be knocked over. Think about getting a folding gate to keep your puppy confined to a certain room or area.

3 Buy necessary supplies. The kitchen or bathroom is an ideal place for the bed because they generally are warm and have washable floors. Here is a list of things you'll need to get you started:

Two metal bowls. These are better than glass because they do not chip and stay cleaner. One for food and one for water. If you have other pets, be sure to give the puppy bowls to avoid conflict.

A puppy bed. Some options are: crate with a crate pillow, a snuggle nest, or a wicker basket with a lot of towels. Whatever you choose, make sure it is always soft, comfy, and dry. Also keep in hand for a blanket in case of cool weather. Make sure that your puppy has its own bed to avoid conflict with your other pets.

Toys. Your puppy will be a ball of boundless energy, so make sure you get plenty of toys. You should have chew toys and soft toys . Make sure the toys are indestructible, if not your pup can choke and die. Also remember that you should not give rawhide to pups as a toy. It's only for treats.

Puppy treats. Make sure you get a variety: Crunchy and soft. The soft will be good for training, and the crunchy will help clean teeth.

Puppy food: Do some research on dog food. Kibble, canned, home cooked, and feeding a raw diet are all options for a puppy. Make sure you buy a puppy food with no dyes or artificial flavors or preservatives in it as many dogs, like people, are allergic to these additives.

Basic grooming tools. Get a bristle brush, comb, rubber gloves, nail clippers, dog shampoo, dog conditioner, dog toothpaste, toothbrush, and towels.

A harness and tag. Get a nylon harness, and metal tag. It hurts their necks and can injure their throats. Remember when sizing the harness that puppies will grow.

4 Get the puppy comfortable in your home. It can be scary getting introduced to a new home for the first time, so make sure to give your puppy extra love and attention the first few days. Have your puppy sleep in your room at night so that they don't feel isolated or alone.

Take a blanket or dog bed to the breeder or pound from which you will pick up the puppy. Do this a few days before you pick up the puppy so that your new companion can sleep on the blanket and begin to get accustomed to your home before it even gets there.

Show your puppy around the house as soon as you bring him home. Let him walk in all the rooms and backyard.

5 Pet your puppy often. It's important to stroke your pet's body, legs, and head several times daily. This will help your puppy feel loved, as well as allow you to create a strong bond with your puppy.

6 Handle your puppy with care. Puppies, like human babies, are fragile. Gently scoop up your puppy if you need to pick it up, keeping one hand under its chest at all times.

7 Protect your puppy. Puppies are naturally curious, and even with the most attentive care they sometimes get out of the yard and get lost. Make sure your puppy wears a comfortable collar—fitted at about 5 weeks and loosened gradually to accommodate the puppy's growth—with a tag listing its name and your address and/or phone number. Many jurisdictions require licensing of dogs, but it's a good idea to get your puppy licensed even if it's not required. You can also have a tiny microchip implanted in your puppy to assist in locating it if it gets lost.

Provide a safe area for your puppy to play. A securely-fenced yard is ideal and experiment a little to find which toys he or she likes best.

Feeding

1 Choose your dog food. While it's tempting to go for the cheap stuff, this is generally not the best choice for your dog. Look for foods that incorporate high quality proteins from fish, chicken, lamb, and/or eggs. Also look for a way to feed your dogs fatty acids to keep its coat shiny and healthy. Generally, you'll want to feed your dogs a ratio of 5:1 omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids. This can come in your food or in supplements such as salmon oil especially designed to give to your dog. 

2 Feed your puppy properly. Feed your puppy small amounts of specially-formulated puppy food several times a day. Dry food is best as it cleans their teeth and lessens gum disease. The amount of food for each feeding depends on the breed; look up the recommended amounts for your specific breed. Feed your puppy only the smallest amount recommended for its breed, age, and size, and increase this if the puppy seems to be too thin or as directed by your veterinarian. The number of daily feedings depend on the puppy's age:

6-8 weeks: 4 times daily

12-20 weeks: 3 times daily

20+ weeks: 2 times daily

3 Avoid buffet-style feeding. While it may be easier for you to just throw out a bunch of food for your puppy to eat when hungry, this is not a healthy way to feed your dog. Dogs, especially puppies, will generally eat a lot of food if a lot is available; they don't stop just when they're full.

Make sure your puppy always has adequate fresh water available. Unlike food, you should leave a full bowl of fresh water out for your dogs at all times. Be aware that they're going to have to pee shortly after they drink large amounts of water. Take them outside so that they don't have accidents in your house.

4 Watch your puppy eat. Watching your puppy eat is a good way to gauge their health; if they seem uninterested in their food, something is wrong. In addition, feeding your puppy some of their food out of your hand and/or being extremely present during their feeding process will help better the puppy/owner bond.

5 Avoid harmful foods. It's tempting just to feed your puppy table scraps, but remember that human food can make your dog unhealthily obese. Even more serious, grapes, raisins, tea, alcohol, garlic, onions, avocados, salt, and chocolate, among other things, are toxic to your dog. If your dog has ingested one of these things, you should call the Animal Poison Control Center ((888).426.4435 in the US).

In addition to posing a serious health risk, feeding your dogs table scraps can train them to beg. Begging is one of the hardest habits to break. To ensure good health, only feed your dog food that is specifically designed for dogs and ignore them completely while you're eating at the table.

Health

1 Keep your puppy's environment safe. An unsafe or dirty environment can be detrimental to the well being of your puppy and can cost you a lot of money in veterinary bills.

Air out your puppy's bedding daily, and wash or replace it weekly. House-train your puppy when appropriate, and immediately replace your puppy's bedding if he or she has had an accident in it.

Get rid of harmful plants. There are a number of household plants that are actually toxic to puppies who like to chew. Keep lily of the valley, oleander, azalea, yew, foxglove, rhododendron, rhubarb, and shamrock far away from your puppy.

2 Make sure your puppy gets plenty of exercise. Different breeds require different amounts of exercise (this is a factor you should consider when choosing a puppy). As puppies' bodies are still developing, try to avoid any sort of rough play or strenuous exercise such as long (over 2 mile) runs. Take the puppy into the yard or garden after meals, and begin taking your puppy for short walks about a week after its second round of vaccinations.

Try to give your puppy about an hour of walk time a day, broken into 2 to 4 walks. Allow them to interact with other (friendly) dogs they meet (assuming your puppy has had its shots) and to leave scent markings. This is important for your dogs confidence, especially if he is a boy.

Socialize your puppy. Once vaccinated, puppies should be encouraged to play with friendly puppies, grown dogs, and other animals. Make sure the other animal tolerates the puppy well, and do not leave the animals alone for even a minute at first.

3 Schedule a visit to the vet. Choose a vet. Like with physicians, it's a good idea to ask your friends for vet recommendations. Get a few choices and visit each clinic. Find one that is friendly, well managed, and smells clean. Ask questions to the vet and the staff—they should always answer to the best of their ability. Be sure you feel comfortable with whichever vet you choose.

When your puppy is 6 to 9 weeks old, you'll want to take it to the vet to get vaccinated. Make sure you talk to your vet about distemper, parainfluenza, canine hepatitis, and parvovirus. They may have suggestions for other important vaccines as well, depending on the risks of your particular dog.

Make sure to get deworming medication during your first vet visit. This is not only a good idea for your puppy's health, but also for your own: many of the parasites that infect your puppy can be passed to humans and cause health problems in your family.

In addition to your first visit, you'll want to go to the vet when your puppy is 12 to 16 weeks old to get a rabies vaccination.

Begin thinking about whether you want to spay or neuter your dog. This is usually done when your dog is around 20 weeks old. Unless you foresee wanting to have puppies, it's a good idea to spay and neuter; thousands of unwanted puppies end up in pounds each year.

Schedule a vet check-up for your puppy at least every six months. Also, schedule vet appointments for the proper vaccinations. Teach your puppy that going to the vet is an enjoyable (or at least tolerable) experience by bringing treats with you while you are there.

4 Watch for health problems.Keep an eye on your puppy and you can catch any problems early. The eyes should be bright, and the eyes and nostrils should be free of discharge. The puppy's coat should be clean and shiny; watch out for matting or thinning. Watch out for bumps, inflammation, or rashes on the skin, as well as signs of diarrhea around the tail.

Grooming

1 Brush your puppy daily. Brushing keeps your pet clean and healthy and allows you to check its skin and fur for any problems. The type of brush and other grooming and washing requirements vary by breed, so check with your veterinarian or breeder for more information. Brush all over the puppy, including its belly and hind legs. Start when your puppy is young so that they are not afraid of the brush.

2 Trim your puppy's nails. Start clipping your puppy's nails early on to avoid Ask your vet to show you the proper nail cutting technique to use so you avoid hurting your puppy. Nails that are too long can cause strain to your dog's wrists as well as damage floors, furniture, and possibly people. Plan to trim your puppy's nails weekly unless directed otherwise by your vet.

3 Keep your puppy's teeth and gums healthy. Chew toys help a puppy keep its teeth healthy. Toothbrushes and toothpaste made specifically for dogs are also very helpful in keeping your pup's teeth clean and healthy. Be sure to acclimate your puppy to having their teeth brushed slowly so that it is a positive experience for them.

4 Only bathe your puppy once every 3 weeks or so. If they smell bad, use dog scent spray instead, and look into what could be causing the odor. Washing more than that can dry out dog skin and strip important oils from their coat.

Training

1 Housebreak your dog. Start housebreaking your dog the first day you bring it home. The longer you wait, the more mess you'll have to deal with, and the harder it will be to train your dog. Consider using training pads for the first few days. While these should not be used instead of taking your dog outside, they're useful as an intermediate stage, especially if you don't have a backyard.

2 Consider crate training your dog. Crate training is helpful for many reasons. First of all, it curbs destructive behavior, allowing you to sleep and leave your dog alone without worrying. Second of all, it is a very effective method of potty training (when used correctly).

3 Teach your dog basic commands. Your puppy will be most able to learn commands while he is young, so begin teaching as soon as possible. In addition, you can use basic commands as a basis for more complicated tricks later.

4 Get your dog used to car rides. Take your puppy on regular car rides to get him used to traveling with you. Otherwise, every time you get in the car he will think he is being taken to a vet. Then, he will start whining, and it will just get you frustrated.

5 Enter in an obedience class. Not only will this help you better train your dog, but it will socialize your puppy, helping him learn how to act around unfamiliar dogs and people.

Tips

Wash your puppy's food bowls daily with warm water and a little dish soap. Or, just throw them in the dishwasher. Washing food bowls prevents illness, bacteria from growing, and it makes each meal time more enjoyable.

Clean your puppy's eyes daily to prevent infections and tear stains (even breeds without white coats can get tear stains and inflammation of the skin around the eye!!!). Clean ears bi-weekly to prevent wax and stink.

Be sure to give your puppy lots of love, attention and gentle guidance about good behavior.

Make sure your puppy gets an adequate amount of rest.

Warnings

This page is only for puppies eight weeks old and older. You should not buy a puppy younger than eight weeks old.

Don't expose your puppy to other dogs before it receives its vaccinations.

Do not leave anything lying around that your puppy could choke on.

Do not train your puppy too late. It may become a problem if trained later, so start early.

What should I do when I bring home a new puppy?

It is absolutely essential to thoroughly research the basics of pet care before acquiring any new pet. RSPCA Australia recommends you take the time to find a detailed book on puppy and dog care before bringing your new pet home, so that you are well prepared for its arrival. Once you have done your research and decided on a suitable pet there will be several things you need to consider upon bringing your puppy home: 

Desexing, microchipping and registration, vaccination
All dogs that are adopted from RSPCA shelters are desexed and microchipped. Desexing your dog prevents unplanned pregnancy and has positive effects on behaviour and health. Desexed animals are less likely to wander or fight over territory; in turn reducing the likelihood of car injuries and bite wounds. Desexing also comes with health benefits for both male and female dogs. Female dogs desexed early are far less likely to suffer from mammary tumours later in life and male dogs are less likely to develop prostatic disease. You puppy can be desexed as early as 8 weeks of age when the operation is straight forward and recovery is very quick. Your local vet can provide this service. Some RSPCA veterinary clinics offer desexing at a discounted rate. You are legally required to have your puppy microchipped and registered with council so that he is easily identifiable, should he go missing. Your vet will be able to microchip your puppy at the same time he is desexed. Microchipping is a permanent form of identification. The chip itself is about the size of a grain of rice, and is inserted just under the skin, usually between the shoulder blades. Microchipping is a very quick, simple procedure and most animals show little sign of discomfort. The fee for registering desexed animals is lower than for non-desexed animals. Remember to change your microchip registration details if you move house. 

Your vet will also be able to advise you about vaccination. Puppies are vulnerable to a host of infectious diseases, some of which can be fatal. It is important that your puppy receives the necessary immunisations to protect against these infections, please contact your local vet clinic for more information. Booster injections are usually administered annually and are particularly important if you plan to board your dog at any time. Most boarding kennels will not accept animals that are not vaccinated.

Training and socialisation
Training and socialisation should be started in puppyhood and are important for several reasons. Obedience training will ensure that your puppy learns how to behave around people and other animals. It is important to set basic ground rules early to ensure that your pet learns to behave well from an early age and to reduce the likelihood of behavioural problems emerging later in life. Training is also great fun for your puppy as it provides an outlet for mental stimulation and a chance to interact with you. Obedience training takes time and will require patience and consistency from you and your family.

Proactively socialising your puppy is very important. Puppies have what is called a 'critical socialisation period' between approximately 3 -17 weeks of age. The puppy’s experiences during this critical period of learning and development can influence and shape their behaviour well into adulthood. Providing plenty of opportunities for socialisation and exposure to different environments during this time can help to ensure your puppy grows into a well-adjusted adult that relates well to other dogs, other animals and people.

The best way to begin socialising your pet is to take him to puppy school classes – these are often offered through veterinary clinics. You can also take your puppy to meet with the puppies and dogs of your friends and family, either at your house or their house. But you should make sure that the other dogs and puppies are friendly, healthy and up-to-date with their vaccinations.

Training should be based on positive reinforcement. Aversion therapy and physical punishment must not be used in trainng programs because of the potential for cruelty.

Exercise
Exercise is an important aspect of your pet’s day to day care. Often a walk is a dog’s favourite part of the day - they are able to explore the neighbourhood and spend time with you. Exercise also provides various health benefits and provides a good opportunity for your dog to socialise with other dogs which is vital for their behavioural development. It is important to avoid over-exercising your puppy, please see the article "How should I exercise my puppy?" for more information. Please check with your local vet when your dog will be sufficiently vaccinated to be taken out in public.

Obesity is a huge problem in Australian pets so before you commit to a pet make sure that you can fit your dog’s exercise into your daily routine.

Diet
Puppies should be fed a combination of both natural foods and a high quality commercial puppy food. Natural foods include fresh raw meat, raw meaty bones and some vegetable matter. Please see the article titled "What should I feed my puppy?" for detailed information about puppy nutrition.

When you leave your dog alone
Your puppy will require a lot of care and attention from you. At some stage, however, you may have to leave your puppy alone for short periods. Try and make this a gradual process to avoid causing separation anxiety – leaving for very short amounts of time and rewarding him upon returning with a walk or play. Gradually increase the length of time you are away so that your puppy realises that you will always come back and he will have a walk to look forward to. A good way to avoid boredom while you are away is to leave toys for him to play with. Keep a stash of toys hidden and give him different toys to play with on different days. Look for toys such as the Kong or Buster Cube which can be filled with healthy doggie treats to keep him entertained while you are away.

Purchasing a pet should never be an impulsive decision. RSPCA shelters receive thousands of unwanted and abandoned animals each year, these are often the result of an ill considered decision. Before you become a pet owner make sure you can fully commit to the responsibilities of owning a pet and do the necessary research to make sure that your new puppy is well cared for when he comes home with you.