Stop your dog urine marking its territory in the house

Why Dogs mark territory with urine &Tips to prevent Dog Peeing (marking) inside the House

Don't confuse urine marking with wanting to pee

If you find large puddles of urine on the floor it is more likely that the dog had to pee and couldn't or didn't want to go out. With urine marking the dog deposits a smaller amount of urine. Marking in the house is usually done to an upright surface such as a doorway, table leg or piece of furniture. The dog will lift his hind leg and mark urine on practically any object in your house. Quite often the object is something new or different with unfamiliar smells that has come into the house but not necessarily so. He is also likely to mark items that he feels belong to him such as anything that he has become possessive about including you. He thinks you are his possession and any objects related to you are also his possessions.

Why do dogs lift their leg and mark territory with urine?

Dog urine marking is not a bathroom training issue but rather an issue concerning a whole range of instinctive behaviors. Your dog may be fully housetrained and would not dream of peeing in the house but to a dog lifting his leg to scent mark is not the same as wanting to have a pee.

We as humans tend to think of dog urine as something unpleasant but to a dog it is something of great interest. A dog leaves it's scent in urine to tell other dogs a message. This message could be about whose territory it is, about the dog's social order or advertising mating availability. 

Dogs use urine marking to show their dominance or to claim something as belonging to them. Dogs with feelings of insecurity or who have separation anxiety may also mark, as territory marking builds the dog's confidence.

Do all dogs urine mark inside the house?

Most dogs that are neutered or spayed at an early age do not mark in the house. Prevention is better than cure.

Male dogs that are not castrated are more likely to mark than castrated dogs.

Although male dogs are more likely to mark urine than females it is not unknown for a female dog to scent mark too. Often a female dog coming into heat or during it will mark to advertise her availability. A dominant female will also mark.

Female dogs may also urinate over a spot where another dog has urinated.

Small breeds tend to pee (mark) in the house more than larger dogs.

Two or more dogs living together in the same house may regard each other as competition and are more prone to urine marking. Urine marking can be a dominance issue. There may be no problem with one dog but when a second dog is introduced into the house then this may be the beginning of marking problems.

Why has my dog suddenly begun marking in the house when he didn't do it before?

Usually it is because of feelings of insecurity or a perceived threat. This perceived threat, for example, can be an introduction of a new baby, a new pet, a visitor or even a new piece of furniture. The smell of other animals on your footwear or clothing can also trigger a dog to feel the need to mark his territory.

For example, a new baby in the home brings new sounds, smells, and people, as well as changes in routine. Your dog may not be getting as much attention as previously. Changes cause him to feel anxious, which may cause him to mark.

Some dogs feel the need to lift their leg and pee on all new things that enter your house, shopping bags, visitors belongings, new furniture, children's toys etc. Many of these dogs are lacking in confidence and by marking new objects it makes them feel more secure having deposited their own scent on these objects.

Some dogs will never mark in their own house but will embarrass you by marking if you visit a friend or relative's home. Your dog feels less secure there and feels the need to make it more comfortable to him by laying down a few of his own familiar scents.

Even a previously housetrained neutered male dog will urine mark under certain circumstances. This doesn’t mean it will become a regular problem. He may urine mark one or twice in a new home and then never do it again.

How to stop your dog marking urine in the house

Below are some tips to prevent or stop your dog peeing in the house.

Neuter

For pet dogs, early neutering will stop marking behavior in the majority of dogs. Neutering at an early age can prevent the habit forming.

For older dogs, neutering may still have the desired effect but marking in the house may have become a habit that you will have to break. Try the supervision method below.

In one study the following was found. "Our research shows that neither age at time of neutering nor duration of the problem behavior has influence on the likelihood that a behavior will change following neutering, thus one need not think that because a male dog has been engaging in problem urine marking or aggressive behavior for five years that it is too late to consider neutering. "Center for Companion Animal Health, UC Davis"

Testosterone seems to play a role in urine marking. At least one study has shown that neutering a dog at any age will help prevent it. It can't be guaranteed that neutering a dog is going to magically cure this problem but if you don't neuter a male dog, your chances of breaking the habit are greatly reduced.

Of course neutering isn't always an option as you may wish to breed your dog.

Supervise and Break the Habit

You MUST catch him in the act! DOGS LEARN QUICKLY FROM THIS

Close supervision is necessary. You must be dedicated to stop the marking behavior of your dog and you must be consistent. A couple of weeks or often much less time of intense supervision and correction can save you a lifetime of tearing your hair out trying to find a quick fix for the problem. Some people have reported that it has only taken a day or two using the intense supervision method.

Confine your dog to one area of the house where you can watch him. Shut doors to other areas of the house or barricade them off with baby gates or improvise with whatever is at hand.

If barricading is not possible another option is to put your dog on a retractable lead while he is in the house with you and for you to have total control at all times.

Make yourself a Shaker Bottle or Shaker Can

A shaker can is simply an empty cola can with a several coins inside it. The opening is taped over to prevent the coins flying out. It makes a lot of noise when you shake it up and down.

A shaker bottle is a plastic bottle with some small pebbles or coins placed inside.

Watch your dog for any signs (such as sniffing and circling) that he is even thinking about marking. The moment he begins to lift his leg shake the can once only to get his attention. The loud noise should startle him and interrupt what he is doing. As he looks towards where the noise has come from. Give him the command in a stern voice 'NO PEE'. Sometimes throwing the can in his general direction works well too but be careful not to hit him with it as you only want to startle him not harm him.

OK, so you have stopped him peeing once. Now you have to be consistent and diligent and continue with the behavior modification each and every time you see him attempt to mark urine.

Do not rant, rave or smack your dog at any time. Punishment will make an insecure dog more insecure.

This method is not intended for house training your puppy, only for urine marking. Potty training is another issue. You may wish to read this article: How to potty train your dog or puppy

Praise him when he pees where you want him to

Don't forget to praise your dog when he marks in an appropriate place. If you are outside and he marks on a tree or other acceptable object or area tell him what a good boy he is. Tell him, 'Pee here, good boy' in a happy voice. Dogs learn quickly from positive responses to their behavior.

The message you are trying to get across to him is that urine marking isn't bad, but that marking inside the house isn't such a good idea.

When you go out

Dogs who suffer separation anxiety may pee while you are out. They are not peeing out of spite because you left them, dogs just don't think like this. They are feeling anxious at being left alone. Try leaving them an item of yourworn clothing with your familiar smells on it. This just might be enough to settle their anxiety.

Confinement is the only answer for some dogs

Some dogs will never be able to be trusted with the run of the house. Although inconvenient to you it may be necessary to close doors to certain rooms and only allow freedom in the rooms he can be trusted. Another alternative is to use Belly Bands (see below)

Deterrents

Spray Commander is a system which uses a device that is attached to the dog's collar which delivers a harmless but unpleasant spray to the dog. You activate the spray with a remote control when you catch the dog in the act of inappropriate behavior such as urine marking on your furniture.

The system comes complete with everything you need including a detailed instruction guide DVD.

You can buy Spray Commander online. The cost depending on where you buy it is between $100 and $140. For more information visit the Spray Commander website. Watch a video on how it works

ScatMats can also be used to deter pets from entering a certain area. The Scat Mat is a touch-sensitive training pad that quickly conditions pets to avoid prohibited areas with harmless, low-power electronic pulses similar to static electricity.

You may be able to deter your from dog peeing on the furniture by attaching strips of aluminum foil to his favorite spots. The urine will make a noise when hitting the foil and may splash back on him. This may deter some dogs but it will have no effect on others. You could also try putting his water bowl in his favorite spot.

Cleaning is important

You must thoroughly clean areas where your dog has peed in the past and completely remove the scent to discourage your dog from re-offending in the same place. Use a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water and wash the soiled areas well.

Avoid using ammonia based products to clean dog urine. One of the ingredients of dog urine is ammonia and he may well be encouraged to re-offend in the same area. Remember, your dog's sense of smell is a hundred times better than yours.

Visiting Friends

If you think your dog is likely to urine mark in your friend's house don't give him the opportunity to do so. Keep him on a leash at all times. You can walk him around the new environment on the leash and if he gives the slightest hint that he may cock his leg give the leash a quick short tug and tell him 'NO'. Or you could take your Shaker Can with you. You may eventually be able to trust him but if the house you are visiting has pets living there it could be a very challenging task.

New Baby?

If your dog has newly acquired the habit of urine marking since bringing a new baby home you will need to reassure him that he is still loved and part of the family. Involve him in fun activities while the baby is around making the baby and associated baby smells less of a threat to him.

Belly Bands

Sometimes it can be very difficult to stop your dog peeing everywhere in the house, on your furniture and other objects.

Dog Urine Smell Removal

How to get rid of dog urine smells and stains out of carpets and rugs. 

This home remedy for cleaning dog urine from carpets is easy and inexpensive and it really works! Below is a recipe which removes dog urinesmell and stains from carpets and rugs even if the urine has dried and is old.

For whatever reason your dog has peed on the carpet the outcome is the same. A smelly carpet! When your dog pees on the carpet it leaves an odor that your dog may repeatedly return to. Avoid using ammonia based products to clean dog urine. One of the ingredients of dog urine is ammonia and he may well be encouraged to re-offend in the same area. Remember, your dog's sense of smell is a hundred times better than yours.

tep 1 

If the area is still wet you should first attempt to absorb the dog urine. Leaving it there to dry out will only encourage bacterial growth which causes the smell.

The best method is to place several layers of paper towel over the wet area and tread on it so as to soak up as much of the dog urine as you possibly can. You may have to repeat this several times until no more dog urine can be soaked up.

Sometimes dog urine accidents have already dried because you did not notice them previously. You can find dried urine spots on your carpet with the aid of a black light. The dog urine stains will fluoresce under the ultra violet light in a darkened room. Hand held black lights are quite inexpensive usually costing between $15 - $25.

Of course, you can always save the expense of a black light. Find the urine spots by using your nose. Just get down on your carpet and sniff and find the offensive urine odors that way.

Step 2

Mix a solution of fifty percent white vinegar and fifty percent water. You must use a liberal amount of this solution to reach the carpet fibers deep down. Work the solution into the carpet with a scrubbing brush to ensure it penetrates the carpet fibers below.

Then blot the area using the paper towel method above to absorb the vinegar mixture. The vinegar will neutralize the ammonia in the dog urine. If you own a wet/dry vacuum extractor use that to remove excess moisture.

Step 3 

When the area has dried or almost dried sprinkle a good handful of baking soda over the soiled area.

Mix half a cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide with a teaspoon of detergent. Plain liquid dishwashing detergent is required. Do not use caustic dishwasher detergent.

Caution: Do not use hydrogen peroxide that is stronger than 3% or stronger than 10 Volume. Bleaching may occur on some carpets with stronger solutions. A spot test in an inconspicuous area is advised.

Step 4

Slowly pour the hydrogen peroxide and dishwashing detergent mixture over the baking soda. (Alternatively you can use a spray bottle for the hydrogen peroxide solution). Then work the baking soda and hydrogen peroxide mixture well into the carpet with your fingers or with a scrubbing brush.

Allow the area to dry completely. Once the area is thoroughly dry, vacuum up the baking soda. Use a hard bristled brush to loosen up the baking soda if necessary.

That's all there is to it. Your carpet will smell fresh and free from urine odor.

If you don't have hydrogen peroxide on hand you could substitute it in an emergency for a spray laundry stain remover. Check the bottle. If it says 'Oxy' anywhere on the label then it probably contains hydrogen peroxide.

In areas that have been heavily soiled with dog urine you may have to repeat the process again.

Why Dogs Do Strange Things

Part of the reason we love dogs is for their unconditional love and curious nature. Some of their most endearing qualities may also stump us from time to time: the furious digging, the inexplicable rolling in stinky, smelly stuff, and the ritualistic nesting at bedtime.

Many of these strange behaviors common to dogs are believed to be tied to the days when they ran in packs, dug shallow dwellings and gathered their own chow.

Birds Aren’t the Only Nesters

Natalie Wolford of Phoenix, Ariz. has two Chihuahuas, Leo and Bella. Their strange habits include “digging” a bed each night before lying down to sleep.

“Bella goes under the covers near my feet and turns and turns until she starts pawing and pawing before finally plopping down,” says Natalie. “Leo does it sometimes but it’s the same thing every night with Bella.”

So why does Bella nest each night?

Before dogs were domesticated some 100 years back, they dug shallow beds to keep them a bit warmer than simply snoozing on the ground’s surface.

The bedtime ritual might also be linked to a dog’s instinct to mark his or her territory. Dogs mark the area that they consider theirs by scratching the ground with the smell that comes from the sweat glands in their paws.

While Natalie’s dogs conduct harmless pawing, some dogs shred whatever they can get their paws on. If this is the case, get your dog a bed of her own with a lose fill such as cedar chips. (Dogs are more likely to adapt to a bed placed in spots they already consider their territory.)

Many of these strange behaviors common to dogs are believed to be tied to the days when they ran in packs.

Dogs Dig Digging

Dogs dig for lots of reasons: As a means to get somewhere, hide food, explore and, frankly, just for fun.

This knack for getting dirt between the paws goes back to the days when they dug dens and buried their leftovers. Watching other dogs and owners dig can also encourage the urge to make a hole of their own.

If digging causes a problem, fill favorite spots with rocks and a smell they dislike such as chili pepper or their own feces. You can nudge them into digging in a designated spot by burying a treat there and cheering them on as they make the discovery.

Your dog could be sending you a message by the holes he’s digging, according to The Secret Lives of Dogs:

Holes near fences indicate something of interest on the other side or boredom.

Holes adjacent to the house could mean your dog is lonely and wants to come in.

Shallow holes could mean your dog is trying to get comfortable by warming up or cooling down.

What’s That Smell?

Many a pooch enjoys rolling in some smelly stuff from piles of autumn leaves to dirt, snow and, unfortunately, even the droppings and carcasses of other creatures.

Dogs might prefer a good roll to itch a scratch. Dogs who sometimes rub around after a bath might be attempting to remove the sweet shampoo smell.

Reeling in something smelly could be your dog’s way of saying that he found something interesting and he wants you to know. Or he could be marking his territory. He may enjoy the smell of something so much that chafing against it is his way of taking that lovely smell along with him.

Most rolling and rubbing is harmless. But if your dog picks up a totally unruly scent, freshen him up with odor neutralizers rather than shampoos, which may enhance the stench – err – scent.

Approach a Strange Dog

Making contact with a dog you’ve never met can be a dangerous proposition. Always remember that he is possibly frightened by your attention, and if your friendly overtures are mistaken for threats, the dog may become violent.

How to tell a friendly dog from a potentially unfriendly one?

You’ll know the friendly dog right away from his attitude and body language: He'll come up to you openly, his nose sniffing to catch your scent, his tail wagging and held high, and he may or may not throw in a friendly bark for good measure. But how to tell if a dog is potentially friendly but also shy? Maybe he’d like to become your buddy but he’s wary of you. Always exercise caution with any dog you don’t know, but if you follow these steps there’s a good chance the shy dog may feel comfortable enough to become your new friend.

Get the dog’s attention: Make a soft noise with your tongue, or talk to him quietly. Whatever you do, don’t startle him.

Approach the dog VERY slowly. Try to appear as small as possible by moving in a half-crouch, coming down toward the dog’s level, but remember to stay attentive to his posture and attitude. Do NOT get down on your hands and knees, since that would make it harder for you to get away if the dog decided to attack. Stop when you get within 10-15 feet of him.

Be patient. Allow the dog to come the rest of the way to meet you. Call to him in a soothing voice. He’ll either take you up on your offer or he won’t. Be respectful of his choice, and do not move any closer to him. You may wish to toss him a bit of food at this point, if you have some. Slowly and gently, toss the morsel underhand to one side of him. Never throw the food directly at the dog.

If he does come the rest of the way to meet you:

• Be careful not to make “threatening gestures”: Never stare the dog directly in the eye. Dogs interpret this as a sign of aggression, and may think you’re looking for a fight. Instead, look off to one side of the dog. Stretch out your hand toward him so that the back of your hand is facing him. This is less threatening than an open hand, and also lessens the chances that your fingers could be bitten.
• Remain motionless as the dog sniffs at your hand. Let him take as long as he needs to accomplish this task – it’s very important to him! Let him finish his examination of your hand, then SLOWLY move the same hand to just behind one of his ears, and scratch or pet gently. Watch constantly for his reaction, and don’t insist if your movement makes him nervous. If he doesn’t like having you move your hand where he can’t see it, pat the side of his neck or his chest instead.

If he declines your invitation and decides not to approach you: 

• Watch his body language very carefully. Dogs always give plenty of warning before they attack. If a dog is showing signs of fear or unease (especially if he’s cornered or restrained and can’t run away), leave him alone immediately. Your attention is not welcome. But if he seems neutral or curious and is exhibiting none of the warning signs mentioned below, you may slowly - VERY slowly - start to take a few SMALL steps in his direction if you think he’s undecided but just shy. Stay alert as you do so. Calmly and slowly stop and back away if he starts to snarl, bare his teeth or exhibit any threatening signs at all. Do NOT run away. Remaining calm is always your best defense.

Some of the common fear or attack signals you should watch out for: 

• Shrill barking
• Teeth bared, with or without growling
• Hackles raised
• Staring directly in your eye
• Crouching with muscles tensed and with tail held rigid, possibly between the legs
• Standing with muscles tensed and with tail held rigid at ‘half-mast’
• Ears flattened
• Coming directly toward you with head lowered
• Attempting to circle and get behind you

What to do if a strange dog approaches you:

• Stop. Stand still and do not move your hands or body.
• Speak softly to him.
• Wait to see what the dog’s attitude is. If he’s friendly, crouch down and react carefully as described earlier, always watching to make sure his attitude remains friendly and non-threatening. If he seems agitated in any way, remain calm and do nothing to approach him or interact with him.
• If he tries to circle and get behind you, pivot slowly, so that you are always facing him. Do not move your arms or legs as you pivot.
• Never turn your back on a dog that is moving toward you. Do NOT panic and run. Wait until he stops moving before you move, and then move slowly, backing away from him. Stop when he moves again.
• Never strike or kick or make any threatening physical moves toward any dog, whether a strange dog or one you already know.

Some Tips for Greeting a Strange Dog

How do you greet a strange dog? One of our posts last week dealt with our unorthodox solution to stop people from getting in Ty’s face. This guest post from Deborah Flick is an awesome follow up. Thanks Deborah!

Last fall I attended a weekend-long presentation by dog trainer, behaviorist, and author extraordinaire, Jean Donaldson, at the Humane Society of Boulder Valley. Jean presented a litany of offenses that humans, with the best of intentions, commit against unsuspecting canines. I cringed as she went down her list.

1. Neglect to ask the dog’s person for permission to meet their dog. GUILTY

2. Reach over the dog’s head and pat, pat, pat. GUILTY

3. Put your face up close to the dog’s face and coo, “Gimme a kiss.” GUILTY.

4. Spot a dog you want to meet, make direct, unblinking eye contact, and quicken your step as you walk directly toward the dog while making high- pitched vocalizations. GUILTY

5. You see an irresistible bundle of fur and walk up to the dog from the rear and enthusiastically rub his or her cute little tush. GUILTY

6. Approach a dog by looking directly at her and as you near with your arms extended clap, clap, clap your hands or click your fingers right at the dog’s face.GUILTY

7. You see a sweet dog laying down. You crouch over at the waist, outstretch your arm and very slowly slink toward the dog while looking directly into her eyes.GUILTY

8. Assume that because you love dogs, all dogs love you, too, and that you possess a special affinity for dogs and they with you, and therefore, you can forego the formalities that ordinary humans should observe. GUILTY

Guilty … and lucky. Any one of these situations could have ended in disaster for me and maybe, unfortunately, for the poor unsuspecting dog.

So, I set up an experiment. I asked my partner to catch me unaware, stare me in the eye while approaching, and then rapidly swish his hand past my eyes, over my forehead, and pat, pat, pat me on the head. (Go on, try it.) We talked about this little experiment on a Sunday, life intervened, and I forgot about the conversation. On the following Wednesday, he rapidly approached, flashed his hand past my eyes and pat, pat, patted my head. I ducked, scrunched my face in disgust and pulled my head away. He continued to stare, smiling and squealing how cute I was and then pat, pat, patted again. I ducked again and backed farther away. If I had canines for teeth I might have been tempted to flash them and growl to warn him off – and I know this man. Imagine if I didn’t!

Well, that’s pretty much what our dog’s experience and that’s Jean Donaldson’s point! Dogs have their own language and protocols for meeting strange dogs (and people) and it’s high time we learned what they are. After all, it just doesn’t seem fair that the full burden of figuring out how to live with another species should fall entirely on our dogs. We need to hold up our end of the relationship by learning to politely greet a stranger.

So … How do you greet a strange dog? Here are some do’s and don’ts:

1. Don’t approach the dog. Pretend you are ignoring the dog. Dogs prefer not to be zeroed in on by strangers. Have you ever noticed how well-mannered dogs meeting for the first time turn their heads away from each other?

2. Ask the dog’s person for permission to meet their dog. Assuming they say yes, follow the steps below.

3. Stay relaxed. You can yawn, put on an easy smile, or slowly blink your eyelids. Keep you body loose. All these signal to the dog that you are not a threat.

4. Do not look the dog in the eyes. While eye contact signals trustworthiness to most Westerners, in the dog world it signals aggression or threat.

5. Turn your body so you are not facing the dog. Again, being face-to-face is polite to most of us, but can signal threat or aggressive intentions to a dog. Notice how well-mannered dogs greet – as they approach they make a half-moon curve as they pass each other and turn nose to butt.

6. Stand straight or squat. Do not crouch over the dog. I doubt you want to be crouched over by a stranger and neither does your dog. It’s threatening.

7. Allow the dog to come to you. Most dogs are naturally curious and they will let you know if they are interested in you. If not, don’t take it personally.

8. If the dog shows interest by sniffing you with a relaxed posture, tail wag (not all dogs will wag and not all wagging is friendly), perhaps looking at you with soft eyes – then you can slowly offer the dog your hand for investigation.

9. Let the dog sniff your hand, if she wants to, and then gently touch the dog on the shoulder, neck or chest, not the top of the head.

10. The dog will clearly tell you if she wants more interaction or if she is finished with you. Listen to her.

11. If at any time during the interaction the dog backs away, stop what you are doing.

If you take one thing away from this post, make it this: NEVER bend over and reach your out-stretched arm to a strange dog. Dogs will love you for it.

Male Dog’s Reproductive System

The male reproductive system in a dog is made up of the scrotum, testicles, epididymides, deferent ducts, spermatic cords, prostate, penis and urethra. Understanding the structure and function of these organs can help you identify when any problems crop up which may need veterinary attention.

Elements of the reproductive tract

Hanging between the dog’s hind legs is a sac known as the scrotum which holds and protects the testicles. The scrotal pouch is divided into two separate areas by a thin wall running down the middle. Inside each area are one testicle, one epididymis, and the head of one spermatic cord. The scrotal sac, which does not contain any insulating fat, keeps the testicles several degrees cooler than the abdomen, which is important for sperm motility.

The testicles are oval shaped, with the left testicle usually hanging slightly behind the right. Inside the testicles are seminiferous tubules, responsible for the production of sperm. Sertoli cells fill the area around the tubules, supporting the tubules and providing nutrition to the sperm cells. The Leydig cells of the testicles are responsible for the production of the male hormone testosterone.

The epididymis (plural: epididymides) begins at the front of the testicle and runs along the edge to the back. It is responsible for storing and carrying sperm to the ductus deferens prior to ejaculation. The sperm stays in the epididymides for a relatively long period of time, allowing the cells to mature.

Spermatic cords are composed of vessels and nerves which nourish the testicles. The ductus deferens are also contained inside the spermatic cords. The ductus runs into the abdominal cavity through the inguinal canal, then leaves the abdomen, running through the prostate and ending at the urethra.

Although the exact function of the prostate gland is unknown, it is thought that it secretes substances necessary to protect and activate the sperm. This accessory sex gland contributes as much as 90% of the fluid that is released when the dog ejaculates.

Once they have matured in the epididymis, the sperm cells enter the ductus deferens, which has strong muscular walls. The muscular walls of the ductus contract to push the sperm into the urethra, which runs the length of the penis. The urethra then releases sperm into the female when the dog ejaculates.

The penis has three portions: the root, the body, and the glans. The root and body are made of spongy tissue surrounding a bone known as the os penis. The glans is soft but swells with blood during sexual stimulation. This swelling is important because it keeps the penis locked into the female dog’s vagina, allowing the dogs to “tie” to each other to promote successful passage of sperm from the male to the female.

Covering the penis is the prepuce, a tubular piece of skin which protects the penis. The prepuce secrets a lubricating liquid known as smegma which keeps the penis moist.

Hormonal control of the male canine reproductive system

The cells of the testicles are under the control of the hypothalamus and pituitary gland of the brain. The hypothalamus releases gonadal releasing factor, which stimulates the pituitary to secrete follicle stimulating hormone and luteinizing hormone. Both hormones travel to the testicles, where FSH stimulates the seminiferous tubules to produce sperm and LH stimulates the Leydig cells to produce testosterone.

Sperm, of course, is used to impregnate female dogs. Testosterone is responsible for the development of male sexual characteristics during puberty. This includes higher muscle mass, thicker bones, more red blood cells, and a higher metabolic rate.

Diseases of the male reproductive tract in dogs

Before a puppy is born, his testicles reside in his abdominal cavity. At birth, they begin to move slowly through the groin area and into the scrotum. The trip should be complete by 6 – 8 weeks of age. In some puppies, one or both of the testicles may fail to descend at all, or may get stuck part of the way through the trip. This condition, known as cryptorchidism or undescended testicle, keeps the testicle trapped in the relatively high temperature of the pelvic cavity, making the affected testicle incapable of producing sperm. Undescended testicles have a higher incidence of tumor development as the dog ages. This condition has a genetic component, so dogs with an undescended testicle should not be bred.

Other problems which may occur in the testicles are inflammation known as orchitis or torsion, which occurs when the testicle becomes twisted on itself. Both of these conditions cause your dog considerable pain as well as infertility. You may notice your dog walking strangely or wanting to lay on cold surfaces to relieve the pain.

The epididymis may become inflamed due to bacterial or viral infections, trauma, or diseases of the immune system.

The most common problem which occurs in the prostate is benign prostatic hypertrophy (BPH). In un-neutered dogs, the continual influence of testosterone causes the prostate to gradually enlarge. The enlargement may block both the urinary tract and the rectum causing the dog to strain when he relieves himself. Other problems of the prostate include infection, cysts, and tumors, which are usually malignant.

The prepuce can also be the site of several disorders. If the opening of the prepuce is abnormally small, the dog may not be able to protrude his penis through the opening, making sexual intercourse impossible. This condition is known as phimosis.

At the other end of the spectrum, if the dog cannot withdraw his penis into the prepuce, the condition is known as paraphimosis. This condition can be treated by applying ice to the dog’s penis to encourage it to become less erect, allowing the dog to retract it.

Priapism is a condition where the dog’s penis remains erect in the absence of sexual activity. This is typically the result of an infection or a spinal cord injury.

The prepuce may become inflamed due to infections, which may include sexually-transmitted diseases.

How will the vet check my dog for reproductive problems?

Your vet will first interview you to find out about the dog’s medical history so he can choose which tests will be most beneficial. It is important that you spend enough time observing your dog’s normal behavior in order to know when something has changed. You are your dog’s best advocate, so make sure you can give your vet an accurate description of any problems you are seeing.

Next, your vet may want to run an analysis of the dog’s blood and urine. This will help her rule out any systemic infections which may be causing the problems. Serologic testing of the blood can indicate the presence or absence of Brucellosis, a bacterial infection that is often the cause of reproductive tract disorders in male dogs.

X-rays of the abdomen can point out problems with internal structures, as can ultrasound inspection of the prostate and testicles.

If a tumor is suspected, your vet may take a biopsy of solid tissues or may aspirate the liquid from a fluid-filled tumor for microscopic analysis.

If you are concerned about your dog’s fertility, your vet may want to examine a sperm sample under the microscope to check for the quantity and quality / motility of the cells. Sperm may be collected by using what is known as a “teaser bitch”, which is just what it sounds like, or by the vet stimulating the dog by hand.

The importance of neutering

Neutering a dog involves the removal of both testicles, making the dog unable to produce sperm. Within a week or two after the surgery, your dog’s scrotal sacs will simply shrink and become unnoticeable. If you value the look of an intact dog, there are prosthetic testicles which can be inserted to maintain the scrotal sac size. The penis is not removed during neutering because it houses the urethra and has a function other than carrying sperm. It also carries urine from the bladder, directing it outside of the body.

Aside from reducing overpopulation problems, there are health reasons for neutering your dog as soon as possible after he joins your family. For example, a neutered dog cannot develop testicular cancer or benign prostatic hypertrophy. There is also some evidence that a neutered dog will be less aggressive than an intact dog.

Female Dog Reproductive System

The sex orgasms exist as a means of producing the next generation. Eggs are produced by the female, sperm by the male. When an egg panda sperm unite a new being is started. The process of multiplying and dividing begins. Mammals are arranged so that the fertilized egg or eggs develop within the female.

Female Organs: The female's ovaries contain her hermitic the germ plasma of which she is the custodian and that created her. At certain intervals the ovaries produce eggs in blister like follicles. The eggs arc conducted to a resting place, the uterus, but before they arrive they can be fertilized by the sperm, a tiny tadpole cell containing the male's heredity. This heredity from the male is in a form so small you would have to magnify it a hundred times to be able to sec even its crudest details.

The Uterus: The uterus in which the fertilized eggs rest is an organ of various shapes in the different species. In the bitch it consists of a short stem and two long horns, something like the letter Y. At the lower end of the uterus is a muscular ring known as the cervix. The cervix also constitutes the upper end of the vagina that part of the reproductive tract into which the penis of the male is inserted during copulation. Close to the opening of the vagina (the vulva) is the clitoris, a small glandular organ known to be the female equivalent of the penis. If female puppy is regularly injected with enough male sex hormone, this clitoris will grow to be almost as large as the penis of a male of the same species. The function of the clitoris in mammals is not known. Being of erectile tissue, it becomes somewhat enlarged at times. Probably it assists in making the sexual act pleasant for the dog and, if so, is helpful in stimulating procreation.

The Vulva: The vulva, which is located below the anus, is the termination of the reproductive system of the female. Into it urine is discharged, so that the organ actually serves two functions. During the mating cycle, the vulva enlarges considerably. The breasts of the female mammal are the milk producing glands of the skin. The process of milk production, or lactation, has given rise toga number of misconceptions. Except for a small amount held in reservoir, milk is not made up in advance and then drained out. Rather it is produced by the breasts from blood while the young are nursing. Otherwise the breasts could not possibly contain the amounts of milk required to feed the average litter. At first, little or no milk may come forth, but eventually it may come so fast in some dog that it acts u - ally has been known to flow freely from teats to which no young reattached. This is because the mother exerts an involuntary pressure that forces the milk out easily.

Bitches have been known to produce up to five quarts of milk a day, proportionally out producing the world - champion Holstein cow, who would have to give three hundred quarts to equal a five - quart - a - day bitch (the best cow on record has given no more than eighty). When it comes to butterfat, the bitch's milk is nearly three times as rich, so shies an infinitely better producer.

Male Organs: The male organs are pairs of the following:

• The Testicle: In which the sperm are produced.
• An Epidermis: In which they are stored and which is connected directly on the outside of the testicle.
• A Vas Deferens: Through which the sperm are transported to a common duct. Unlike humans, most male pet dog has no seminal vesicle. The vas deferens from one testicle joins the one from the other.

In puppies, the testicles are descended at birth, which is not the casein some species humans, for example in which they descend considerably later through two slits in the abdominal muscles. Each testicle, besides having the vas deferens leading away, has a vein and artery panda muscle (the creaser), which together compose the spermatic cord. This enters the body through the same opening in the abdomen through which the testicles descend.

Many mammals, including dogs, have a bone in their penis. Called the Os penis, it adds rigidity to an erection but it can be the cause of problems if a bladder stone, or calculus, descends the urethra to be - come lodged at the Os penis. The urethra passes through part of this bone and at that point the urethra cannot expand. This bone very occasionally is fractured by an injury.

Nerves: The nerves may be thought of as the telegraph wires of the body .Thousands of miles of these fibers control the body's activities. They stimulate the muscles to contract, and each of even the tiniest muscles has its nerve supply. The brain is the central station from which the nerves radiate through several pathways, the principal one being the spinal cord. Most of the conscious body movements are regulated by the brain and spinal cord. These two organs are exceedingly well protected, entirely enclosed in bone the skull and spine.

Nerves carry impulses to the brain from distant parts of the body, such as the delicate nerves in the skin which telegraph messages via other nerves to the brain. Feeling is a function of these nerves of the skin sensitivity to temperature, to electrical stimuli, to wetness or dryness, to sharpness, as in the case of a pin prick. Some diseases rabies, for example may destroy the skin's sensitivity, so that a rabid dog may not even feel the bites of another dog.

Whereas telegraph wires carry messages both ways, nerves conduct impulses in only one direction, some to the brain and some away from it. Suppose a dog touches a hot electric light bulb. The sense organs alert the brain with the speed of electricity, and instantly the muscles are given an impulse that pulls them away from the hot object. We used to acknowledge five basic senses, but today psychologists recognize many more: the kinesthetic sense, or muscle sense; the sense of balance, which can be demonstrated even while dog are embryos; and the sex sense, to mention only a few.

The nerves are unlike other cells in that they are long, thin fibers. Many fibers may he associated in bundles, and the largest bundle of all is the spinal cord, which gives out and takes in pairs of nerves (cranial nerves) between every vertebra of the backbone. The bundles of fibers branch here and there (the trunk divides into branches) until the final divisions are tiny individual fibers innervating some small area of the body.

In addition to the spinal cord there are other nerves that leave the brain and extend to orgasms and other parts of the body. All of the body organs, muscles, glands, the intestines is controlled by the spinal cord and by these cranial nerves.

For every sensitive area in the body there is a corresponding centering the brain. When a dog has a twitch in a leg, it is difficult to realize that the origin of that twitch is a part of the brain or spinal cord. Nor, when we see a pet scratch, do we think that a nerve somewhere in the skin telegraphed the brain, which set in motion the pet's hind leg. Have you ever scratched a dog on its back close to the tail and observed the dog immediately scratch its shoulder? This is due to the so - called reflex action. A human knee jerk is a reflex, and dog is not unlike us in having such areas. Anyone who has groomed a Scottish Terrier knows that there is a large patch on each of its sides that, when combed or clipped, makes the dog scratch involuntarily.

Contrasted to that of a human, the brain of a dog is very small, chiefly because the fore part, called the cerebrum, is relatively no much smaller in all lower dog. The positive, willing, conscious actions are evolved in this portion of the brain. Involuntary living is a concern of the rear part, called the cerebellum. There are other parts, most of which, like the two already mentioned, are arranged in pairs.

Without the cerebrum, dog can function mechanically but have no memory, can't learn, and lack the will to do anything. Their existence is almost like that of what we consider a human vegetable. They can breathe, eat if their faces are held over the pan, defecate, urinate, sleep, wander aimlessly around, bite or growl when hurt. But by the way some of our pets are trained (or not trained) one might conclude that all they had were cerebellums.

The cerebrum is the part of the brain that responds most to training. Let no one think a pet can have its brain cluttered up by training. Once a pet learns what is wanted of it and is properly rewarded, each succeeding act or trick is easier to teach than the previous one. The most highly educated dogs find learning easier and easier. Unfortunately our pets do not live long enough: just as they become almost human mentally, they break down physically and die or must be destroyed.

The eye is, surprisingly, far less complex and much tougher than most people believe it to be. Its parts include the cornea, the large, round, transparent area. Surrounding this is a ring of glistening clear white tissue, the sclera. In the lower part of the eye socket some dog, including dogs, have a third eyelid, the nictitating membrane .Inside the socket, next to the nose, dogs have glandular tissue that often becomes inflamed and causes the membrane to protrude and exhibit a swollen, red, spongy - looking tumor. This usually has to be removed surgically.

In the middle of the eye we see the pupil. This is only a name for an opening between the two chambers of the eye. The pupils get larger or smaller, depending on the amount of light the eye needs for vision, or by drug action, or brain disease. A dog looking at bright light shows a very small pupil; when there is less light or darkness, the pupil enlarges. If its vision is unimpaired, a dog shows a round spot. The colored tissue around the pupil is called the iris. It ranges in pets from pearl, yellow, green, and blue in some to blood color in albinos and dark brown in still others; a dog may have two different - colored eyes, but this is rare.

Behind the pupil lies the lens. It is tough, fibrous, and crystalline .Through it light rays are bent so that the image comes to rest on sensitive nerve - laden area behind the lens, known as the retina. The retinal nerves in turn transmit visual images via the optic nerve to the brain.

People so often think that scratches on the cornea constitute a cataract that it should be stated that a cataract is opacity in the lens. When you look at the pupil and see a cloudy or white area it may be cataract. As the normal pupil should enlarge and contract with change of light, the cataracts pupil will react to light also, but it appears white no matter how dilated or contracted the iris is. Really all we see is the white lens, since, and the pupil is actually an opening in front of it.

The color of the pupil is a good indicator of a dog's age. The pupil sofa young dog will be a dark clear blue whereas a very old dog, free of cataracts, will have nearly white pupils. Dogs of intermediate ages show gradations of the whitish tinge. Five - year - old dogs show enough white so the blue is a lighter shade. There is no better way of roughly approximating a mature dog's age than this. Teeth cannot be relied upon to reveal the age of the adult.

Dogs, like most domesticated mammals, are color - blind (that is, they see colors as shades of gray) and so can distinguish a bright red from ad ark green as only lighter and darker gray.

The Ear. As the eye is an intricately designed organ, so is the ear, the device for catching sounds and carrying the impressions to the brain through nerves. The four - legged dog has cupped erect ears to enable it to pick up distant or faint sounds. When the head is turned, the sounds can be picked up in the same manner as by a trumpet or radar antenna. The sounds are conducted downward through the external canal. Surely most pet owners have looked down into their pets' cars, probably cleaned them, and know the projections to be found there. And that is the entire ear most people know about. They may often wonder about the possibility of piercing the eardrum when the yare cleaning the canal. As long as they clean downward, they do no harm. The canal becomes smaller at the bottom, then turns inward slightly and terminates in a very delicate membrane, the eardrum. The rest of the ear is within the solid bone of the skull.

Behind the eardrum are three tiny delicate bones which constitute remarkable mechanism activated by sound vibrations. The three bones transmit these vibrations, via the semicircular canal, to nerves which in turn carry them to the brain via the auditory nerve. From the small cavity (the middle ear) in which the three bones are found, a tube called the Eustachian tube runs into the throat. Its function is to equalize pressure on the eardrum. If we travel up a mountain, or under arriver in a subway, we may feel a sensation in our middle ear. If we swallow, the pressure is relieved or, in other words, equalized. If it were not for this provision, the delicate eardrum might be broken by abrupt changes in atmospheric pressure. 

Why do dog and bitch get locked by sex organs when they have sex?

The female dog's (bitch) vagina muscles tighten up to ensure that all semen is put into her. When a male dog ejaculates, the semen drips out little by little. Some say that the "tie" is to ensure that another male is not able to get to the bitch.

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The dog's penis, when fully erect and engaged in the mating, swells at the base, which is referred to as the 'knot'. When this round portion is inserted into the bitch's vagina, the bitch has a restrictive muscle near the opening which holds the dog's penis in place while ejaculation occurs. This is to insure that not only do no other dogs get at the female until the odds of pregnancy have decreased, and also to keep the dog's semen inside the female as it has a rather low viscosity (meaning it's more 'watery') and therefore increase the odds that it will impregnate the bitch.

The penis of the dog contains a bone that allows it to penetrate the bitch's vagina before the penis becomes erect. 

Once it has penetrated, the penis then becomes engorged, including swelling at the base, which is known as the bulbus glandis, that then locks the two animals together for the duration of the mating in what is known as a dog breeding tie.

The tie or lock can last up to an hour but is usually 10 to 20 minutes long.

However, it is always advisable to supervise the mating so that the male dog's reproductive parts aren't inadvertently damaged by the two coupled dogs twisting or dragging each other about. Some bitches will struggle and need gentle but firm restraint and reassurance to keep them still and calm.

Don't try to separate the dogs during the tie! It can injure either or both animals. After some time, they will part naturally.

The next thing that we are going to do now begin to get him aroused. I find that the best way is to first gently stroke his cock through his sheath until it begins to enlarge and slip out.

You should continue to gently stoke him with your hand while you begin to slowly move you mouth back and forth over his cock. As you do this, his cock will continue to enlarge until he reaches full erection. 

As he gets closer to his climax you will notice that at the base of his cock there is a very large bulge known as his "knot". This knot is used to hold his cock inside a female (dog or human) until he has finished ejaculating. If you are considering going further then you should make a mental note of the size of his cock and knot. The average large dog has a cock, when aroused, that is 5 to 7 inches long and 1 and half to 2 inches wide. The knot for a dog whose cock is 6 inches long and 1 and a half wide can be two inches long and 4 inches wide. A dog is different than most mammals as from the time they begin to become aroused until they begin to get soft they will have some form of ejaculate coming from their cocks. At first arousal there is a clear thin fluid that tastes like iron and has the consistency of water. This is his precum that is for lubrication so his knot will slip into the female's vagina. At full arousal is when he actually will produce his sperm and you can tell when this happens as his cum will begin to have a slightly salty taste to it. You should be aware that his cum will never be as thick as a man's but he will produce about twice as much as a man will.

dogs images so cute cute cute and cute

What is my Dog Trying to Tell me

Think for a moment about going to a bridal shower after a long day at the office, a 90-minute traffic snarl, and four customer service misunderstandings to get your bank card reactivated. Most likely, you aren’t in the mood for a “fun” time. Nevertheless, it’s an important event for the bride. Putting on a fresh dress and your best party face, you go, even though you would rather snuggle up with the dogs on the couch and throw in a movie. When you arrive, your sister takes one look at you and says “You’ve had a rough day! Coffee or wine?”

How does she know? How do we pick out that the bride is tense, the bride’s mother is proud, the maid of honour is excited, and the groom’s mother is disaffected?

In humans, we send body language signals without even thinking about them, and we read them accurately through long experience and a certain amount of innate knowledge. Although there are some cultural differences in how body language is spoken around the world, for the most part, we have a base language that we all share. Tense people tend to be rigid in their movements, nervous people tend to move quickly and with jerky movements, and relaxed people tend to move fluidly and gracefully.

How often do you watch your dog and read him just as well? Dogs have a rich body language that they use to great effect. We can eavesdrop on what a dog is telling you by knowing a little bit about how dogs behave when they are relaxed, happy, nervous, frustrated or angry.

Imagine, for a moment, that instead of walking into a bridal shower, you were walking into your living room at the end of the weekend. By considering a dog’s posture, path of travel, gait, eye shape, and tongue, you could quickly assess what that dog was experiencing just as well as you read a friend’s body language.

Standing Still

Standing still may only last for a split second, so you have to watch carefully to see what is happening. When a dog is standing still, he bears his weight in one of three ways:

• Feet four-square and balanced. This dog is calm and confident. (See the Doberman Pinscher in Photo 1. The Collie in Photo 1 is demonstrating the curved approach as discussed

on page 96.)

• Balanced on his hindquarters. This dog is ready to spring forward, and is confident and willing to interact. (Rottweiler in Photo 2)

• Balanced in such a way that he can bolt away from you (or what he is looking at). This dog is fearful and likely to flee. (Small dog in Photo 2)

Dogs may stand in a variety of off- balanced ways that show you which way they would like to dart away. Darting away indicates fear, so if your dog is standing off balance, try and determine what is frightening him.

Photo 3 shows a dog that is balanced on his forefeet in a meta signal called a play bow, and, although he is confident, he is highly aroused and ready to play, not calm.

When you look at a dog, it is important to consider his emotional state. Human body language tells us if someone is afraid, confident, or relaxed, and we react appropriately. In the same way, we can help our canine friends by reading their bodies carefully. It is unfair to ask a fearful dog to approach things that frighten him, and likewise it is foolish to approach a dog who is broadcasting aggression unless you know more about his intent.

Wither Do You Wander?

The path of approach tells us a lot about someone’s intent. If you are approaching the customer service desk to return a damaged item, you will most likely walk assertively and directly to the person at the counter. If you approach a friend this way, he or she will likely be intimidated and fearful. The same is true of the dogs you meet. Dogs traveling in straight lines (Photo 4) are more likely to be aggressive, while curved lines of travel (see Collie in Photo 1) indicate a friendly encounter.

If a dog approaches you in a direct line, looking aggressive, turn away, keeping one eye on her. You will often see this sort of rude behaviour from adolescent dogs who are trying out assertive behaviour, albeit in the wrong context. Standing still, looking down at the ground, and yawning may diffuse the situation.

A dog that is moving on a curve does not likely intend harm, although with a large dog, she might knock someone over. If you see a dog doing this while playing, it is a good idea to bend your knees in case she slams into you by accident.

Photo 6 shows a Dalmatian in danger. You can clearly see that the dog is balanced in such a way that he can flee. The Border Collie on his back legs is bearing his weight on his hind quarters and is willing to bolt forward and hurt the Dalmatian. The third dog, a Springer Spaniel, is standing squarely on all four feet, still and confident, preventing the Dalmatian from escaping.

The Rocking Horse Run

When dogs are playing, they run in a very particular way. They move vertically almost as much as they move horizontally, rocking back and forth like a child’s rocking horse. Running in this way is inefficient, and reflects that play is all about fun and games, not about running your friends down and tackling them. (Photo 5)

A dog running towards you in this manner is being playful, but it may not be safe—this playful behaviour can be very rough and you can easily be knocked over.The opposite of rocking horse running is flat, efficient movement. (Photo 4) When a dog moves in this way, he is in a hurry and going as quickly as he can. We often see dogs doing this sort of movement during an aggressive incident.

The Eyes Have It

It is said that you can read the soul through the eyes. There is nothing as special as looking at the eyes of someone close to you—you can achieve an instant connection. You can also read a lot about a dog’s state of mind in the shape and look of his eyes.

Almond-shaped, relaxed eyes are a reflection of a calm demeanour (Collie in Photo 7). Rounded eyes can indicate arousal and surprise (Chihuahua in Photo 11). If you can see the sclera or whites of a dog’s eyes, beware; the dog is tense and upset and may bite you. Behaviour specialists call this “whale eye” (Photos 8 and 9).

The Rottweiler cross in Photo 10 has a very threatening and dangerous expression.

Hard eyes and loose lips are the sort of ambiguity seen in dogs who have been punished for growling in warning. This dog is resource guarding the toy he has.

The Tell-tale Tongue Tongues have a lot to say, and they are one of the ways that dogs communicate very differently than humans do. When a dog’s tongue and lips are loose and floppy, don’t worry about that growl—everything is meant in play (Photo 12).

When a dog is actually going to bite, he pulls his lips and tongue back and out of the way so that his teeth can do their work (Photo 13).

A Tail to Tell

As with tongues, tail talk is different than human body language communication. Dogs use their tails the way that people use smiles. The idea that a wagging tail indicates happiness is similar to thinking that every smile means only one thing. A low, fast-wagging tail is like a nervous laugh.

A high tail wagging slowly is the confident smile of someone who is going to make you do something you don’t want to do. (Miniature Dachshund in Photo 14) And the middle-level, fast, wide wag where the tail hits or almost hits the body is comparable to the excited grin of a child waiting at the airport for Grandma to come out of the luggage area. (Golden Retriever in Photo 15)

When looking at tails, look at the base of the tail where it attaches to the body; a dog with a very short tail has as much to say as a dog with a very long tail, and the base of the tail is more telling than the tip. A tail drawn as low as possible in a long-tailed dog will cover the genitals. A tail this tightly tucked indicates extreme fear. The short-tailed dogs are trying hard, and you can only see that if you look at the base of the tail. A high tail may curve upwards and over the back and this can be confusing in a dog who has a tail that naturally curls over his back, so again, it is important to look at the base instead of the tip to learn the dog’s mood and intent.

Do You Hear What I Hear?

Dogs can move their ears independently and almost 180 degrees from the front to the back. In general, consider that the more forward your dog’s ears are, the more confident he is about a given situation. The further back and pinned against his head and neck your dog’s ears are, the more fearful he is. (Photo 16)

However, ears serve a dual purpose and can be a bit difficult to read; just when your dog is using his ears to communicate something, he hears something that causes him to pop them out of an easily readable position. Upright, forward ears are attending to what is directly in front of him. (German Shepherd in Photo 17)

Then the phone rings and one of his confident, forward ears flicks back to listen. Ears pulled back tight against the neck tell us that the dog is nervous and concerned (Photos 16 and 18) but then the neighbour’s dog barks and the dog flicks one ear forward to listen to that!

Pay attention to the general drift of the dog’s ear and as with the tail, the base is more important than the tip.

When you open the door to reading a dog’s body language, you will learn a lot about what they intend, how they feel about their surroundings, and how they interpret your actions. Dogs don’t lie with their body language, so they are always telling us exactly what they mean by how they stand, move, look, and act. As humans, we are more aware of our verbal communication than our visual communication. Dogs function in a world that depends primarily upon visual communication, so they often read our body language better than we read theirs, but with a little practice we can hone our skills. The payoff to learning to read what your dog is saying is better responsiveness to the dog’s needs. When you respond to your dog’s needs, you set up a situation where your dog can gain confidence and your relationship with your dog will improve.