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10/30/12

off-leash dog charges me

People have asked me what I do when an off-leash dog charges my dog and I while we’re running. Runners have to be especially aware of dogs, since a lot of dogs chase anything that moves.

I run with a large variety of dogs every day through my dog running business. These dogs have various energy levels and very different reactions towards approaching dogs.

Still, my reaction to approaching off-leash dogs is always the same.

The following is my own “expert” advice as someone who runs with dogs every day and has to deal with approaching off-leash dogs fairly often.

Here is what I do when I see an off-leash dog approaching:

First of all, I do all I can to prevent confrontations. I keep the dog I am running under control at all times, in a formal heel position at my left side.

I am aware of my surroundings at all times, always subconsciously scanning yards for approaching dogs or people. I am always listening for people or dogs coming up behind us. I don’t run with headphones.

If I see a dog that might approach us, I slow to a walk or do a quick but relaxed “U-turn” or move to the other side of the street. If the other dog slowly follows us with a relaxed posture or barks but seems insecure, I just ignore the dog and slowly move away. I return to a run once we are about 10 yards away.

If the dog is already charging or if he charges even as we move away, that’s when I turn to face the dog, making sure to use my body to block my own dog. I look the approaching dog right in the eyes with a very dominant, upright posture. I point at him, take a step towards him and firmly say, “NO!” All of this has to happen within about two seconds, but it’s always enough to surprise the dog for a moment and instantly break the tension or excitement. It’s a mind game.

I don’t feel comfortable telling everyone to confront an approaching dog in this way. Most people do not have control of their own dogs, let alone the ability to read the energy of an approaching dog. But I also know many of the people who read this blog are a lot like me and are totally capable of confronting a dog.

What about tossing a handful of treats at the approaching dog?
You may be thinking it would be better to use a positive reinforcement technique. You may want to toss a handful of treats at the approaching dog to distract him. If that works for you, great. It doesn’t work for me.

First of all, I don’t bother to carry treats while I run. Second, if I were to fumble through my pocket to grab a handful of treats, I would lose control of the dog I am walking and the approaching dog would get to us before I had a chance to toss the treats. And finally, most approaching dogs are excited about seeing another dog. They don’t give a damn about pieces of jerky.

What about spraying the approaching dog with pepper spray?
I’m not opposed to running with pepper spray or using it on an approaching dog. I just choose not to bother. I’ve never been in any real danger. I have never been attacked by a dog while running.

If carrying pepper spray would make you feel more comfortable, do it. And don’t be afraid to use it, either. A nice spray to the face will teach the dog a thing or two about charging people! And if the owner gets upset, well, too bad. Maybe she shouldn’t have let her dog act like a maniac.

From my experience, though, simply moving away and avoiding confrontations is the best approach. Show that you are not a threat and that you are not interested. If the dog still doesn’t get the memo, then it usually works to turn and address him.

What about those truly annoying owners?
“Don’t worry! He’s friendly!”

Well, f#@k you. I’m trying to run here. Your lab might be “friendly,” but his tail is straight up and he’s staring right at my dog!

Of course, I don’t actually say that.

Sometimes both dogs truly are friendly and the easiest thing to do is just sigh, let them acknowledge each other, do the sniffing dance for a minute and move on.

What if my dog is aggressive?
Sometimes I am running a dog that is truly reactive to other dogs. Those of you who own leash-reactive dogs know very well how frustrating it is when other people allow their “friendly” dogs to charge your not-so friendly dog.

If the dog I am walking is even the slightest bit reactive to other dogs and some idiot allows his dog to charge us, I always make sure to yell out, “My dog is aggressive!”

Usually that takes the smile off the other owner’s face as he comes running over to collect his dog.

Sometimes your dog might go into a complete tizzy, spinning and snarling. It happens. The approaching dog may have caused the reaction, but your dog is now the one truly out of control. When this happens, the best thing to do is just get control of your own dog and completely ignore the other dog. Then move away as quickly and calmly as you can.

What if there is a dog fight?
What if the dog seriously begins to attack your dog? Fortunately I have never had this happen. If this did happen to me, I know I would make sure not to get my hands in the middle of it. But I would probably try to use my body to block the two dogs from each other. I would also most likely kick the attacking dog in the face, hard.

But one thing to remember is that most of the time dog confrontations sound a lot worse than they really are. It’s best not to freak out and add more fuel to the fire. It’s also best to keep the leash as loose as possible in order to decrease the tension. Often, it’s actually the owner who causes the dog fight by tightening the leash at the wrong time.

Even if there is a lot of snarling or lunging or yelping, chances are there won’t be actual bites. Even if there is a bite, don’t panic. If your dog is up to date on vaccinations, there is not much to worry about.

You may want to make note of where the off-leash dog lives or at least where you are and contact animal control. I keep the local police departments in my phone for that reason. If the dog appears to be lost or ownerless, you may also want to report it for the safety of others.

Details about how to keep your dog under control in “heel position”

No matter what dog I am running with, I keep the dog under control, at my left side in a formal heel position at all times. I do this even if the dog’s owner normally allows him to run ahead, and even if he has basically no leash manners.

To keep any dog at my left side on a loose leash, I hold the leash close to his collar in my left hand, and I hold the slack in my right hand. The “loop” part of the leash is held with my right hand. I maintain just enough slack on my left side so the leash is not tight.

Some dogs have very good leash manners. Some wear head collars that prevent them from pulling. For the dogs that pull, all I do is keep their collars high on their necks, right under their chins and behind their ears. It doesn’t really matter if they are wearing a flat collar, a martingale, a choke or a prong. It doesn’t matter if the dog has had no basic obedience training. If you keep the collar high on the neck you should be able to keep the dog under control. You will probably have to stop every few minutes to adjust the collar, though.

Whenever the dog sneaks ahead, I give a slight correction by pulling up. I pull up or to the side, not back. If you pull back, not only does it move the collar to the stronger, thicker part of the dog’s neck, but it causes the dog to resist the tension and pull harder.

Always stay relaxed and prevent tension in the leash. The leash should be so free of tension that you could literally hold the leash with two fingers in each hand and the dog wouldn’t break away. Ideally, you could drop the leash and the dog wouldn’t notice or go anywhere.

What tips do you have for dealing with an approaching off-leash dog?

Working with your own dog to achieve a reliable sit-stay no matter what can also go a long way!

Some Things that Bug Dogs

There isn't much out there that bugs a dog. Butthere are times when things can get under theskin of even the "coolest" dogs. Here are some oftheir top pet peeves in dogs ... from the mouthsof dogs themselves. 

1. Leaving the toilet bowl lid down. Humansjust don't understand that the water is cold,fresh and always tastes better there. For thelittle dogs that have never been able to "reach"this delightful experience – you don't know what you are missing. 

2. Not sharing in the fruits of your labor. I don't mean "fruit"

actually. I mean that beautiful, 1 ½ -inch steak you cooked to sucharomatic perfection. We're all part of the pack, right? Why am I not getting my share? 

3. Not understanding my behavior. Okay, so I like to greet strangers by leaping on them. I like to chase my tail bythat lead crystal vase you call an heirloom. I'm not misbehaving; I'm a dog for crying out loud. It's all good, and likeshadow chasing, helps build eye-to-paw coordination. 

4. Bathing. What is with the daily bath "thing" that humans do? And why do they inflict that obscenity upon me onoccasion? Just when I think I am smelling fine, they bathe me. I really don't understand. I'm only going to go out androll in "something" again. They just don't appreciate the effort it takes to get that perfect doggie odor. 

5. Rushing me to potty. Don't they know that there is a true art to finding the right spot? Just because they did not get up in time, they are running late, they want me to "Hurry up and potty." Have a little respect. This is my chance to shine.

6. Being away. I love attention and being around people, noise and excitement. When you are away, at work, or running errands ... this is time away from me. Don't you know? It is ALL about me. Your life should revolve around me AND I can make you regret leaving me behind....

7. Nail trims. They are my nails – I spend lots of time growing them and here they come again touching my feet. I hate that!

8. Not letting me chase the squirrel. They torment me by placing a "glass wall" between me and lots of critters outside. How annoying. All I want to do is "play" with them. The other thing they do is restrain me with this thing called the leash. I want to run forward and I am pulled back. If they can't keep up, they should just let me go. What is a dog to do? 

9. Catnip. Now this is one peeve that really annoys me. I see the cat roll and play and even cry out in joy in response to catnip. I smell it, eat it, lick it and ... nothing happens. Nothing. I don't get it.

10. Not letting me at the mailman. This is so unfair. I wait all day for the mailman and finally he comes. The anticipation is great. Then, they hold me back. Tell me to be quiet. Very annoying. They don't appreciate the fact that the mailman comes everyday and I single handedly scare him away. My bravery and courage are unappreciated. 

11. When my owner is playing with the other dog or cat. This really hurts my feelings. Seeing MY owner play with someone else. It is all about me... They really don't understand. 

12. Won't let me at the litter box. I think of it as an opportunity for a tootsie roll snack. My owners get all grossed out, run around and then actually deny me access to what I desire the most. I am actually helping to clean up. What's the problem? 

13. Expecting me to be at their beck and call. For a treat – I have to do some little humiliating trick and pretend I like it. What about independence, freedom and respect?

14. Sharing the bed. I don't understand why I have to sleep on the floor. Why can't I have the bed and they sleep on the floor? I work hard all day and night. I protect my owners, guard the house and scare away invaders of my castle such as the mailman, cats, squirrels, and a multitude of other creatures. I should be pampered. 

15. Rolling up the windows. I feel such joy from the little words, "wanna go bye bye." This gives me thoughts of having the window down with cool wind blowing through my hair, looking just dynamite as other dogs stare from the curbs in envy and awe. And just when I am really getting into it – head out, ear flapping, they roll up the window. Then I am forced to stare at other dogs going by with their heads out the window. Mega bummer. 

...and one more for good measure:

16. Cats. What really makes me angry is the agility and grace of cats. They have the gifted ability to jump up on things and escape under things with such ease. I really wish I could do that. When I try to do that, I inevitably break or knock something over.

What Do Dog Paws Really Smell Like

A few weeks back, reader K.S. in Atlanta offered her personal view that dogs’ paws smell like Fritos which sparked an onslaught of email, and other comments directed to my Facebook page. In all, I received around 100 comments, and still the controversy rages on. K.S. said she thinks dog paws smell like Fritos, and wondered why? Some readers were shocked that veterinary dermatologist Dr. Karen Campbell, the esteemed head of specialty medicine at the University of Illinois Collage of Veterinary medicine said she never noticed the snack food odor, but did explain that K.S. was likely smelling sweat off the dogs’ paws or maybe the oil gland secretions from their paws – or a combination of both.

Perhaps Campbell never noticed, but you sure have. Here are a few of your comments:

“I am rolling on the floor. I have been saying this for years, referring to my Springer (Spaniel) and now with our Maltipoo- I call them ‘Frito feet.’ I have a pretty good sensory sense so I know we're not all wacky. I have a PhD in Food Science plus 26 years in the food industry. I don't know what to do with this information, but I did get a chuckle and found it affirming. Thanks for having the courage to publish this! (I wonder how many of us smell our dog's paws?). L.K., Saint Paul, MN

“Your article struck my funny bone. We have nicknamed our Boxer named Geep ‘Frito Feet.’ It was enjoyable to know that other pet owners share the same ‘stinky dilemma.’ I wonder what my feet would smell like if I walked around with no socks, never washing them and walking on all sorts of terrain. I think Fritos would not come to mind. Thanks for the chuckle.” C.G., Smithfield, Va.

“I was surprised to hear anyone else say it, but I always joked that my lovely dog’s feet smelled like Fritos! What's with Dr. Campbell? Horse sense always told me the odor is intrinsic to dog feets (I love calling them that). I enjoy your column a lot.” L.B., Las Vegas, NV

“I had a dachshund mix that lived to be 16, and a Doxie purebred that lived to be over 18, and both of the dogs definitely had Frito paws. My last one passed away a little over two years ago and because of circumstances in my life I haven't been able to replace him yet. To this day the smell of Fritos still almost makes me cry!” J.H.B., Williamsburg, Virginia

“Or maybe Frito's (has) engineered their chips to smell like dog paws. Hmmm?” D. H., Greensboro, NC (via Facebook)

“Yes, they DO smell like Fritos! Perhaps we can turn it into a diet thing. When you get hungry and want to snack, just smell your dog's feet! You get some of the enjoyment of the Fritos without those nasty calories!” D. P., via Facebook

“I always thought they (dogs’ paws) smelled like popcorn.” K. N., Portland, ME (via Facebook)

“I've always thought (dogs’ paws smell like) tortilla chips.” D. G. S., via Facebook

“LIsa (one dog) smells like Italian pillow cookies, the ones with the sesame seeds. Maggie's (another dog) feet smell like popcorn, but the rest of her smells like a nice expensive cheese. My gals are totally delicious.” M. B., New York, NY

“This is a hysterical subject. I’m cracking up. I always thought dogs’ paws smell like caramel corn!! Their mouths smell like parmesan cheese,” J. G., Plainfield, IL. (via Facebook)

“I thought I was the only one who smelled their dogs’ feet. It sounds like we all like it and do it often. Well, I thought at first when Fritos was mentioned it brought that smell up from memory, but I just went and smelled both of my dogs feet and I think more like a musky grass. (I wonder if) anyone likes the smell of horse hooves? I also love to smell my dog’s muzzles, my last Doberman had an especially wonderful scent.” J. K. Sarasota, FL (via Facebook)

“Just wanted you to know that there is one more person who has thought for years that dogs' feet smell like Fritos. Glad to see there are at least two more of us. “ J.S. Grove, OK

“Okey dokey... despite how much I absolutely adore my dog and that she sleeps on my bed, sometimes right up by my pillow, I have to say that I have never smelled her feet. And I'm not planning to.” C.H.V., Chicago, IL (via Facebook)

“Sniffing dog’s paws – and writing about it in the paper – you’re crazy. Get a life!” 

The ways to make dog love you

Dogs are very loyal and intelligent animals. You can create lasting friendships with them. Read on for tips on how to properly love a dog and make one loyal to you.

Steps

1 Be consistent. There's nothing more frustrating for a dog than an owner that can't make up his/her mind. If you hear him/her howling in the night, go to him/her and comfort him/her. Then they will bond with you.

2 Use single word commands like 'sit' and 'stay' and stick to them. Don't use 'stay' one day and 'wait' the next. If you teach a dog to lie down by saying 'down', don't teach him to get off of the couch by saying 'down'. He'll think you want him to lie down; use 'off' instead.

3 Be pleased with your dog. When he behaves favorably, praise him and reward him.

4 Use a friendly tone. When he does something undesired, use a stern, friendly tone.

5 Don't ever hit your dog. Displays of aggression only teach the dog to be defensive and therefore aggressive, when abused.

6 Socialize your dog with people and other dogs. He will learn to be friendly to both if he is familiar with them.

7 Make sure your dog gets all the play, walks and exercise he needs. Dogs with pent up energy tend to become destructive and depressed.

8 Make sure your dog understands the pecking order of his "pack". If you have children, he should be below them on a pack level. The owner or primary caretaker of the dog should be the "alpha" the dog should respect this leader. If the alpha is not present, the dog may try to take charge. Dogs need to be part of a pack to be happy.

9 Give your dog outlets for stress, boredom, or frustration. If he chews, give him or her chew toys or balls. But do not EVER give a dog a raw bone as the dog can and will chew off small shards and can choke on those pieces. If he digs, make him a "dig box" (a wooden frame in the ground, filled with soft dirt, this saves your yard!).

Smell Dogs Hate

Generally, dogs love going for a walk with their master, eating meat and belly rubs, running her and there and chasing other small animals. Everybody knows that the dogs are very sensitive and have the power to smell and find out the wrong person, but do anybody know that also have some exception in smelling. Yes! Dogs hate some smell.

Actually, the dogs hate many smells in that smell of anything citrus hits the top place in the list.
Dogs’ antipathy for citrus fruits like oranges, grapefruit lemons, or food which has this citrus is seen in most of the breeds. Anyway the dog’s hate for citrus smell is useful because it can be used to deter from chewing certain items which you want to keep away from your pet or items which you like to keep it safe.

To find whether your dog hate this smell, you can take any citrus fruit and peel the skin with your hands so that the hands get covered with sticky juice of the fruit and bring your juicy fingers near to your dog’s nose. If the dog runs away with a troubling face, then your dog belongs to the citrus-hating dog breed. If your dog comes near and start licking your fingers, then you don’t have a dog that hates this smell.

If your dog likes citrus smell, it not means that your dog likes all the smell, it has its own taste and it may hate some other smell. Some of the other common odors that are hated by dogs include coffee grounds, eucalyptus oil, cayenne pepper, peppermint oil, lavender oil, pipe tobacco, lemon grass oil,citronella oil, and mustard oil. This particular quality of sense is very useful for all pet masters as they can use that particular smell to protect their things or foods or whatever.

Plants and Flowers That Dogs Dislike

Placing certain plants near the edges of your garden will deter your dogs.

If you have dogs, you know how difficult it is to keep them out of your garden beds. You can plant certain plants, however, to deter them. Generally, dogs do not like any plants with a strong smell, or plants with thorns. Plant these plants around the edges of your garden, and they work almost as well as a fence. Does this Spark an idea?

Prickly Pear

The prickly pear is a type of blooming cactus characterized by large, circular pads. These pads are covered in long thorns, and the plant produces the prickly pear fruit. This cactus is part of the Opuntia family, found throughout the United States. It is found in United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) hardiness zones 4 through 11, and can grow in elevations over 10,000 feet depending on the variety. The prickly pear cactus can grow up to 7 feet tall and prefers well-drained soil. They also require full sun and generally bloom from late spring through mid-summer.

Pepper Plant

The pepper plant is a part of the Piperaceae family. It creates a black, green, red or white fruit. You can eat this fruit raw or cooked, as in the case of bell and yellow peppers. Or, you can dry this fruit and create peppercorn spices. Pepper plants are a perennial that can grow between 3 and 6 nches tall, and they hardy in USDA zones 3 through 9. They require full sun, and will produce fruit when it's between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Pepper plants generally prefer well-drained soils.

Coleus Canina

This plant is technically a weed, but it works well at keeping both dogs and cats out of gardens. The bluish flowers have a strong smell that only animals can pick up on. Plant around the edges of your garden, and generally animals won't go anywhere near the garden. This plant is often found in natural animal repellents. Coleus canina prefers full sun and well-drained soil. It creates oblong-shaped, lined, green leaves, and it is a part of the Lamiaceae family. This plant reaches about 2 feet tall.

Huckleberry

Evergreen huckleberry is a type of flowering shrub that creates pinkish blossoms. It also creates blue to purple berries, and the fruit is edible. The size of this bush is what usually keeps dogs out of your garden bed; they get up to 12 feet tall and 10 feet wide. They grow in USDA zones 7 through 9, and they flower from March through May. Evergreen huckleberry prefers full sun to shade, and well-drained, moist soil
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Can dogs taste?

Dogs are generally branded as voracious eaters. Dogs would eat anything. Even well fed ones would still raid trash cans and feast on rotten and spoiled food. To the consternation of dog owners that provide the pet with nutrient rich premium quality foods, dogs would not forgo the chance to eat their own or other animal’s poop. Dogs also have the habit of gnawing and eating sneakers, carpets, furniture and other non-edible objects. We know that dogs have heightened scenting, hearing and seeing abilities. With the indiscriminate eating habits, it seems that the taste buds of dogs are not functioning. Do dogs have the ability to taste?

Dog’s sense of taste is not as well developed as its other senses. However, dogs can taste. A dog uses its sense of taste to assess the delectability of the offered food. Dogs are noted for their huge appetites. At the sight and smell of food, a dog would be highly agitated. The dog would salivate, bark and jump excitedly in anticipation of the dog dish filled with kibble. This behavior would be enhanced if the bowl is filled with home cooked doggie food. And yet, a dog may sniff the food, take a first bite and then turn away. Dogs will also leave foods that they don’t like to eat in their bowls. This suggests that dogs can indeed taste.

A dog’s basic taste is pretty similar to humans. Our furry friends can taste sour, sweet, bitter and salty. The taste varies from dog to dog but generally, dogs would prefer sweet over bitter and sour. A dog that has developed a taste for fruits would eat banana but would commonly turn away from lemons and other citrus fruits. Generally, dogs hate the bitter taste. Dogs may not be able to complain about the bitter or sour taste of a home cooked meal but given the huge appetite of dogs, it would be obvious that the food is not to the dog’s liking if the doggie bowl was ignored. Pet owners use bitter substances on furniture and on other objects to stop the chewing habit of the pet. Dogs are noted to have more receptors for savory taste. This explains the dog’s preference for meats.

At the tip of the tongue are sensitive water receptors. When dogs eat sweet and salty foods, these receptors became more responsive. More liquids are necessary to process these particular foods so that when dogs are given sweets, hams or any other salty and sweet human foods they would require more water. Because of these sensitive water receptors, dogs are noted to be rather choosy with the water they drink.

Dogs have one thousand seven hundred six gustative receptors. These taste buds are mostly located on the upper surface of the tongue, at the mucosa of the palate and at the epiglottis and pharynx. Studies have shown that the less developed sense of taste is influenced to a great extent by the dog’s acute sense of smell. Dogs may sometimes lose their appetite. When the dog turns away from the food it is not because the meal is unpalatable or that the dog food that was provided by the owner day in and day out has become boring. Unlike humans, dogs do not need varied menus. Because a dog’s sense of taste is not very well developed, it would eat the same type of food over and over again. Sick dogs would commonly refuse to eat. A perfectly healthy dog may refuse food if the smell is not attractive to the dog. Dogs would smell first before eating. In the wild, dogs would know what plants are toxic simply by smelling. And yet dog owners would wonder… if the dog’s less developed taste is greatly influenced by the sense of smell, why then do dogs have the propensity to eat poop?

Dog's Skeleton details

About a Dog's Skeleton

Like all other skeletal animals, the dog's skeleton is made to protect vital inner organs, provide a stable base for the body, and allow it to move and perform various functions. The bones of the skeleton also provide essential nutrients and storage of vitamins and minerals for the body. The skeleton of a dog is basically the same as that of a giraffe, a horse, a mouse, and even a human. The differences lie in size, and form more than actual types of bones.


Vertebrate


Dogs, like people, are members of the vertebrate family. This means their bodies are shaped by a skeleton and centered on a spinal column. The spinal column houses the central nervous system and is a primary key to every bodily function.


Number of bones


Dogs have 319 bones on average, with the difference being the possibility of bones being artificially removed with the removal of part of the tail (tail docking). Every dog has the same number of bones regardless of whether it is big or small. A Pomeranian is the same inside as a Great Dane. The differences are in size and length of the bones, not the number of bones.



Skeletal Structure


The canine skeleton is comprised of three main areas: appendicular, axial, and visceral. The appendicular skeleton makes up the bones of the legs and feet, the axial portion of the skeleton is the main axis of support, the head, neck, spine, ribs, and beast bone (sternum). The visceral bones are the small bony parts of such organs as the inner ear.


Bone structure


Bones of all vertebrates are comprised of many layers of tissue. They are not a single solid piece of material like they may appear to be. They are comprised of the periosteum, a membrane that encases the bone; the cortical bone, the firm, thick, material that makes a bone strong; the cancellous bone, the interior part of the bone that is spongy and compartmentalized like a honeycomb. The cencellous portion of the bone actually gives the outer structure more strength. Bones contain marrow in the center medullary cavity that is made up of fat, and in some bones (primarily the appendicular and axial bones) red and white blood cells.


Breed Differences


The differences in bones between breeds are in size and shape. The biggest differences (other than sheer size) are in the bones of the skull.


Skeletal Tendencies for Hereditary Conditions


Some of the man-made size differences in breeds cause inherent difficulties that lead to illness. Many of the larger breeds of dogs have such weight placed on the skeletal capacity that it creates problems such as panosteitis, an inflammation of the long bones located in the marrow cavity. Hip dysplasia is another skeletal problem often occurring in large, heavy breeds, but also in dogs with very long backs
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Why Do Dogs like Bones

I sit watching one of my dogs chewing on a raw beef shank bone and wonder at how blissful the experience seems to be for him. There appears to be no better canine sedative than a bone to gnaw on. However the bone that I gave him had very little meat on it, and those few clinging meat scraps had disappeared quickly. Yet despite the absence of meat he is still chewing on the bone, scraping it or sometimes crushing it when he can get it far enough back into his mouth to work on with his molars. Ultimately he will actually eat most of the bone and that is the scientific puzzle. Why would a dog, or any other carnivore, seem to want such an apparently non-nutritious food source to such a degree that it is willing to spend hours working, crushing and grinding it so that it can be consumed?

Strangely enough we get our first inkling as to what is going on by looking at research on the diet of humans. For example, John D. Speth of the University of Michigan excavated some sites in New Mexico that contained the bones of bison that had been killed around 1450 AD. However there was something strange about these particular deposits. It seems that these ancient hunters left most parts of the female bodies to rot at the butchering site yet dragged home as much of the male carcasses as they could carry. So what was wrong with these female bison?

The clue as to what was happening comes from the season. While most known prehistoric bison kills happened in fall and winter, this New Mexico site contained animals killed in springtime. What makes female animals so unappetizing during the spring turns out to be fat, or rather the lack of it. Pregnant and nursing cows are often severely stressed in the spring because they are carrying a nearly full-grown fetus or nursing a calf, and it is well before there is enough vegetation to use for adequate foraging. As a result they have to live off of their own fat reserves and thus their bodies get fat-depleted. Similar fat depletion can occur when animals are near starvation during cold or dry seasons. At such times an animal's body fat can drop to only a few percent of their total weight which is far less than what appears in even the leanest cuts of beef. It may surprise many people to learn that a diet made up of almost pure protein actually contains too few calories for adequate nutrition and can even lead to protein poisoning. Thus it appears likely that these hunters rejected the meat of the female bison because of its low fat content.

To see how inadequate a high protein diet is in the absence of fat, we can look a historical incident which occurred in the Wyoming during the winter of 1857. A military officer named Randolph Marcy ran out of food and had to march his men all the way to Santa Fe, New Mexico in order to find adequate provisions. His troops survived by eating their pack animals. Unfortunately the poor quality of the meat nearly killed the men. Marcy reported that, "We tried the meat of horse, colt, and mules, all of which were in a starved condition, and of course not very tender, juicy, and nutritious. We consumed the enormous amount of from five to six pounds of this meat per man daily, but continued to grow weak and thin, until, at the expiration of twelve days, we were able to perform but little labor, and were continually craving for fat meat."

This brings us to the importance of bones in the evolution of carnivores. Seasonal changes swinging between warm and cold in the mid-latitudes and wet and dry in the tropics affects the availability of the vegetable matter used as food by the animals that meat eaters depend upon as their prey. The last reservoir of fat in an animal undergoing hard times is in the bones. Bone marrow is particularly rich, with more than half of its composition being fat. In addition, bonded to the calcium making up the bone itself is the so-called bone grease, which, although less digestible and concentrated is still a substantial source of fat. If you are a predator and for some reason your prey is in very poor condition for part of the year, then you will greatly increase the value of the meat that you have if you can get some fat with it. The fat serves as a sort of nutritional multiplier. This means that the ability of carnivores to reach the bone marrow of their prey, and their desire to work at grinding down and consuming the bulk of a bone to access the bone grease could mean the difference between life and death.

A number of carnivorous species, including the hyena and some extinct canines, like the dire wolf, display specialized bone crushing teeth, and powerful jaw muscles to facilitate eating bones. Our domestic dogs have to work harder because they do not have those specialized teeth. On the other hand they do have very strong jaws, and even a small dog can work up a bite strength of around 700 pounds per square inch which can gradually wear down the largest of bones. Most importantly, evolution has left dogs with the desire to work at getting this source of fat. Evolution uses the trick of making necessary behaviors for survival of the individual or species pleasurable (like eating or sex) and so it has made the bone chewing eating behavior dogs such a great satisfaction for them.

One caution-if this article has motivated you to give your dog a bone, make sure that it is a raw bone. Cooking sweats out the bone grease and often melts away the fat in the bone marrow, thus making cooked bones less desirable. Furthermore cooked bones are much more brittle and eating sharp bone splinters can injure your dog. For the most part, the raw bones and the fat bonded to them are safely ground down and consumed by dogs.

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