Dog's Skeleton details

About a Dog's Skeleton

Like all other skeletal animals, the dog's skeleton is made to protect vital inner organs, provide a stable base for the body, and allow it to move and perform various functions. The bones of the skeleton also provide essential nutrients and storage of vitamins and minerals for the body. The skeleton of a dog is basically the same as that of a giraffe, a horse, a mouse, and even a human. The differences lie in size, and form more than actual types of bones.

Vertebrate

Dogs, like people, are members of the vertebrate family. This means their bodies are shaped by a skeleton and centered on a spinal column. The spinal column houses the central nervous system and is a primary key to every bodily function.

Number of bones

Dogs have 319 bones on average, with the difference being the possibility of bones being artificially removed with the removal of part of the tail (tail docking). Every dog has the same number of bones regardless of whether it is big or small. A Pomeranian is the same inside as a Great Dane. The differences are in size and length of the bones, not the number of bones.

Skeletal Structure

The canine skeleton is comprised of three main areas: appendicular, axial, and visceral. The appendicular skeleton makes up the bones of the legs and feet, the axial portion of the skeleton is the main axis of support, the head, neck, spine, ribs, and beast bone (sternum). The visceral bones are the small bony parts of such organs as the inner ear.

Bone structure

Bones of all vertebrates are comprised of many layers of tissue. They are not a single solid piece of material like they may appear to be. They are comprised of the periosteum, a membrane that encases the bone; the cortical bone, the firm, thick, material that makes a bone strong; the cancellous bone, the interior part of the bone that is spongy and compartmentalized like a honeycomb. The cencellous portion of the bone actually gives the outer structure more strength. Bones contain marrow in the center medullary cavity that is made up of fat, and in some bones (primarily the appendicular and axial bones) red and white blood cells.

Breed Differences

The differences in bones between breeds are in size and shape. The biggest differences (other than sheer size) are in the bones of the skull.

Skeletal Tendencies for Hereditary Conditions

Some of the man-made size differences in breeds cause inherent difficulties that lead to illness. Many of the larger breeds of dogs have such weight placed on the skeletal capacity that it creates problems such as panosteitis, an inflammation of the long bones located in the marrow cavity. Hip dysplasia is another skeletal problem often occurring in large, heavy breeds, but also in dogs with very long backs

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Why Do Dogs like Bones

I sit watching one of my dogs chewing on a raw beef shank bone and wonder at how blissful the experience seems to be for him. There appears to be no better canine sedative than a bone to gnaw on. However the bone that I gave him had very little meat on it, and those few clinging meat scraps had disappeared quickly. Yet despite the absence of meat he is still chewing on the bone, scraping it or sometimes crushing it when he can get it far enough back into his mouth to work on with his molars. Ultimately he will actually eat most of the bone and that is the scientific puzzle. Why would a dog, or any other carnivore, seem to want such an apparently non-nutritious food source to such a degree that it is willing to spend hours working, crushing and grinding it so that it can be consumed?

Strangely enough we get our first inkling as to what is going on by looking at research on the diet of humans. For example, John D. Speth of the University of Michigan excavated some sites in New Mexico that contained the bones of bison that had been killed around 1450 AD. However there was something strange about these particular deposits. It seems that these ancient hunters left most parts of the female bodies to rot at the butchering site yet dragged home as much of the male carcasses as they could carry. So what was wrong with these female bison?

The clue as to what was happening comes from the season. While most known prehistoric bison kills happened in fall and winter, this New Mexico site contained animals killed in springtime. What makes female animals so unappetizing during the spring turns out to be fat, or rather the lack of it. Pregnant and nursing cows are often severely stressed in the spring because they are carrying a nearly full-grown fetus or nursing a calf, and it is well before there is enough vegetation to use for adequate foraging. As a result they have to live off of their own fat reserves and thus their bodies get fat-depleted. Similar fat depletion can occur when animals are near starvation during cold or dry seasons. At such times an animal's body fat can drop to only a few percent of their total weight which is far less than what appears in even the leanest cuts of beef. It may surprise many people to learn that a diet made up of almost pure protein actually contains too few calories for adequate nutrition and can even lead to protein poisoning. Thus it appears likely that these hunters rejected the meat of the female bison because of its low fat content.

To see how inadequate a high protein diet is in the absence of fat, we can look a historical incident which occurred in the Wyoming during the winter of 1857. A military officer named Randolph Marcy ran out of food and had to march his men all the way to Santa Fe, New Mexico in order to find adequate provisions. His troops survived by eating their pack animals. Unfortunately the poor quality of the meat nearly killed the men. Marcy reported that, "We tried the meat of horse, colt, and mules, all of which were in a starved condition, and of course not very tender, juicy, and nutritious. We consumed the enormous amount of from five to six pounds of this meat per man daily, but continued to grow weak and thin, until, at the expiration of twelve days, we were able to perform but little labor, and were continually craving for fat meat."

This brings us to the importance of bones in the evolution of carnivores. Seasonal changes swinging between warm and cold in the mid-latitudes and wet and dry in the tropics affects the availability of the vegetable matter used as food by the animals that meat eaters depend upon as their prey. The last reservoir of fat in an animal undergoing hard times is in the bones. Bone marrow is particularly rich, with more than half of its composition being fat. In addition, bonded to the calcium making up the bone itself is the so-called bone grease, which, although less digestible and concentrated is still a substantial source of fat. If you are a predator and for some reason your prey is in very poor condition for part of the year, then you will greatly increase the value of the meat that you have if you can get some fat with it. The fat serves as a sort of nutritional multiplier. This means that the ability of carnivores to reach the bone marrow of their prey, and their desire to work at grinding down and consuming the bulk of a bone to access the bone grease could mean the difference between life and death.

A number of carnivorous species, including the hyena and some extinct canines, like the dire wolf, display specialized bone crushing teeth, and powerful jaw muscles to facilitate eating bones. Our domestic dogs have to work harder because they do not have those specialized teeth. On the other hand they do have very strong jaws, and even a small dog can work up a bite strength of around 700 pounds per square inch which can gradually wear down the largest of bones. Most importantly, evolution has left dogs with the desire to work at getting this source of fat. Evolution uses the trick of making necessary behaviors for survival of the individual or species pleasurable (like eating or sex) and so it has made the bone chewing eating behavior dogs such a great satisfaction for them.

One caution-if this article has motivated you to give your dog a bone, make sure that it is a raw bone. Cooking sweats out the bone grease and often melts away the fat in the bone marrow, thus making cooked bones less desirable. Furthermore cooked bones are much more brittle and eating sharp bone splinters can injure your dog. For the most part, the raw bones and the fat bonded to them are safely ground down and consumed by dogs.

BANANAS DOG IMAGES

Bananas dogs picture so cute and lively

THE HUMAN FOOD CAN DOGS EAT?

TOP 21 HUMAN FOOD THAT YOU CAN FEED YOUR DOG!

It has happened to all of us dog owners. You are sitting at the dinner table and your dog is sitting right by your feet. He has a look that says he has not eaten in 1,000 years even though you know for a fact that he ate only minutes ago. He is drooling and your heart breaks to see him craving bits and pieces of your meal. Finally, you cave in and want to share some scrapes with him. Before you do so, however, it is crucial to find you what human food can dogs eat.

To find the answer, we called upon Liz Palika, author of “The Ultimate Pet Food Guide,” and animal nutritionist, Susan Lauten, PhD, of Pet Nutrition Consulting, to explain which fresh, frozen and canned foods people typically eat that are safe for dogs to consume too. Here is the top TEN list of human food that is safe for our canine friends to eat.

MELONS

Watermelon, cantaloupe and honeydew are all healthy options for your pooch. “My dogs will take me down over cantaloupe,” says Lauten. “I am required to share the whole thing with them.” Consult animal poison control before feeding your dogs any of the more exotic melons.

SUNFLOWER SEEDS (SHELLED)

Skip the salt if possible, or serve in moderation, recommends Lauten. “Remember, treats should not comprise more than 10 percent of your dog’s daily calorie intake. If your dog gets 500 calories a day, 50 calories could come from treats.”

PEANUT BUTTER

Peanuts don’t appear to cause allergies in dogs like they do in people, says Lauten. “I have some highly food-sensitive dogs for whom peanut butter is a large part of their diet.”

BERRIES (FRESH AND FROZEN)

Blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, huckleberries or raspberries — all are good for your furry friend for the same reason they’re good for humans: free-radical-fighting antioxidants. “A lot of dogs like them frozen,” says Lauten.

COOKED CHICKEN

Ran out of your dog’s regular food? Whether boiled, baked, served rotisserie-style or grilled, this food is a healthy substitute. “Dogs will eat a freshly cooked chicken any way they can get it,” says Lauten.

Healthy dogs can handle cooking oils and seasonings. Just be sure to avoid adding onion or too much garlic. If you’re concerned, non-salt seasonings can be used, but that matters more for the human eater than the dog, explains Lauten. Scrambled eggs, hamburger, rice, pasta and/or oatmeal can serve as meal replacements in a pinch, adds Lauten.

CHEESE

This is a safe snack for dogs, but just like humans, they can experience lactose intolerance, so monitor your dog’s reaction. “Many families use a dollop of cottage cheese with every meal,” says Lauten. To avoid overfeeding, consider giving your dog low- or reduced-fat dairy products.

BANANAS

“My dogs love bananas and I share mine with them regularly,” says Lauten. “All fruits have phytonutrients and required nutrients. They are good for all of us. If the foods are healthy for me, they are more apt to be healthy for the dog,” says Palika.

APPLE SLICES

Lauten recommends serving your pup seedless, organic apple slices, because apple seeds naturally contain cyanide. Citrus fruits such as oranges are good too, but leave off the rinds; they contain many oils and could be too strong for a dog’s digestive system.

BABY CARROTS

Fresh, crunchy vegetables are good for your dog’s teeth, says Lauten. Plus, it’s a bit easier not to overfeed with veggies. “If you’re giving your dog vegetables, you can give a lot more in volume,” because these are low-calorie foods.

GREEN BEANS

Because this veggie fills dogs up, weight-management programs often include green beans, usually canned with no salt added, says Lauten. “An entire can of green beans contains 70 calories. What a bargain, and filling too!”

VEGETABLES

You can feed you dog all of the following vegetables: squash, turnip, pumpkin, potatoes, celery, zucchini, cucumbers, celery, tomatoes, asparagus, carrot, red and green peppers, green beans, peas, and broccoli. There are many awesome dog food recipes that will tell you how to make yummy meals that contain some of these vegetables!

PASTA

You can serve this plain or with a little bit of oil. I would stay away from adding any garlic as some dogs can be very intolerant to it! It is not as dangerous as onion but close enough.

RICE

Rice is great food for dogs, especially if they are not feeling well. Just like humans, sometimes doggy tummies can be well-off eating soft rice and mushed chicken on those odd days.

TURKEY

Yes, dogs can most definitely eat turkey, as a general rule. Many premium dog food blends are made with turkey. What IS NOT good for dogs are turkey skin, bones or turkey fat. Also, make sure that no onions have come in contact with the turkey since onions ARE toxic to dogs.

LAMB

Cooked lamb is a great meal for your dog when fed in the appropriate portions! Make sure this is lamb without bones because cooked bones are soft and have the tendency to splinter. You must keep cooked bones away to keep your dog safe.

LAMB BONES

As with any raw meaty bones, be sure to offer them raw and frozen. Cooked bones have the tendency to splinter, and freezing helps kill off some of the germs we people tend to be so concerned about.

Be sure also that you get a good solid bone and not a thin one because raw or cooked they can splinter. I usually get good beef bones for my Bichon Frise and Cockapoo and then steam them. I stay away from the smoked bones as smoked meats aren’t even good for humans. It’s the marrow in bones that are excellent for your pets, and also chewing on the bones helps keep their teeth healthy.

DUCK

Dogs can eat Duck but you should not feed your dog duck bones as, like Chicken bones, they are quite small and splinter easily. This means your dog could choke on them and cut their mouth and throat on the splinters.18. Venison: Dog’s can eat raw venison. It is very good for them, but go slow on how fast you feed it to them. They can get upset stomachs. But feeding raw is the best. They have vitamins that provide for great coats, and energy! Our vet says it is very healthy. Start feeding to slowly and gradually increase the amount over time. This is to prevent indegestion possibilities and should be done with ALL dog meals whether it is dry or wet food.

FISH

This includes salmon, cod and haddock.

FROZEN CHICKEN

Dogs love frozen raw chicken necks and raw or cooked chicken hearts of liver!

EGGS

Eggs are a good source of omega 3′s and can help coat shine.

Eggs are a source of biotin, Vitamin A, Vitamin D, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B5, Vitamin B6, Vitamin B9, and Vitamin B12, among other things.

The one thing you want to be really carefully with is feeding a lot of egg whites, as they contain a substance that can hinder absorption of biotin in the body. It’s nothing to worry about if you give the egg whole (with the yolk) or cooked, though.

Eggs can be fed raw or cooked. Even though eggs can contain salmonella, RESEARCH SAYS it’s nothing to worry about. Your dog’s digestive system won’t have issues with it. Just make sure you handle any raw foods carefully, same as you would when preparing meals for yourself. (Wash hands and clean surfaces after.)

If you give eggs, it’s best to give them whole, including the shell if your dog will eat it. Egg shells are a good source of calcium. You can put the whole thing in a blender if your dog won’t chew the shells by herself.

Of course every dog is different and you and your vet know best if he or she has any food sensitivities, weight issues or other health concerns that should guide your dog’s diet. It is always a good idea to check with your pet’s doctor if you are planning on changing what your dog eats. Also keep in mind that it is best to introduce new foods to your dog slowly. You don’t want your pooch to get gas, bloating, soft stools or other digestive problems.

Anytime you’re feeding table scraps to your dog, make sure it is in conjunction with his regular diet and make sure it isn’t in excess. Dogs can suffer from a condition called pancreatitis when given too much fatty food.

Pancreatitis is serious and is often fatal if not diagnosed quickly, and there are often very subtle signs, so it is important to avoid too much fat in the diet.

Why Do Dogs Eat Grass?

Dogs explore the world with their noses and mouths. Pica is the medical disorder of eating non-nutritive substances such as grass, metal, clay, coal, sand, dirt, soil, faeces, chalk and pens to name a few! Dogs are remarkably flexible in their tastes; they'll polish off a bowl of dog food and then continue to see if there is anything else that is worth stealing! For dogs, grass could just be seen as attractive, sweet-smelling and accessible; so why not eat it?!

Dogs have been eating grass for thousands or even tens of thousands of years, and there's no evidence that this pica behaviour is bad for them. These are the theories as to why dogs indulge:

1. Wild dogs, wolves and foxes will eat all of an animal which they catch while hunting. Dogs are omnivores, eating meat as well as plants. They don't need grassy nutrients anymore because most commercial dog foods are nutritionally complete, however dogs are not nutritionists and they don't know that they've already received their vitamin or mineral requirements from their food. Their instincts tell them that grass is good, so they eat it.

2. Dogs are also said to eat grass to make themselves sick if they have a stomach irritation. Even dogs who usually don't eat grass will head straight for the nearest patch when they're feeling sick. They'll gobble a few mouthfuls, retch, and then throw up, or at least try to. We still aren't sure if dogs eat grass because their stomachs are upset or if their stomachs get upset after they eat grass. However, many veterinarians suspect it's the former. The stomach contains neuro-receptors that respond to what dogs ingest, they react to acidity, chemical content, and textures. The texture of the grass has a tickle effect on the stomach, which may induce vomiting. Dogs who are sick, often appear almost desperate for grass, they don't chew it carefully, they gobble it!

However, evidence suggests that most dogs that eat grass aren't unwell beforehand, or at least they don't appear so. In fact, according to their owners, fewer than 10% of dogs seem to be ill before eating grass and grass-eating doesn't usually lead to throwing up --in a recent survey less than 25% of dogs that were found to eat grass were sick after grazing.

3. Therefore, another theory is that dogs may eat grass to settle their stomachs if they are suffering from stomach pains. It is speculated that dogs might eat grass to improve digestion, to treat intestinal worms, or to fulfil a nutritional need, such as higher dietary fibre. Dogs that chew grass thoroughly and slowly, reduce the tickling effect on the stomach, enabling them to eat it without getting sick.

4. Some people believe it is a simple behavioural habit or boredom alleviator, especially when practiced by puppies and younger dogs. If you suspect your dog is eating grass because he is bored, ensure he is getting enough exercise and engage him in some fun activities, such as ball throwing, training or chase!

5. It is possible that dogs simply like the taste and even if you're feeding your dog well, he might still fancy some greens! Dogs have survived by scavenging. They simply weren't fussy, and dogs today haven't got any fussier. They are predisposed to like just about everything! In addition, there's some evidence that dogs get cravings for certain foods and for many dogs, a mouthful of grass clearly tastes great. If your dog likes to eats grass, try supplementing their diet by adding some grated green vegetables such as broccoli or green beans into their food.

These theories highlight that we don't entirely understand why dogs eat grass. Experts agree that grazing itself isn't harmful; the danger is in the form insecticides, herbicides and pesticides used on lawns that are toxic if ingested. Fertilisers are often one of the top 10 causes of pet poisoning in the UK, so keep an eye on how much your dog is helping you to keep the lawn at bay!

What food do dogs eat?

A dog diet may include raw or cooked meat, organ meats, vegetables, grains and fruits. There are pros and cons to feeding raw, cooked, or processed food. It is best to research different types of food and talk to a professional before deciding what diet is best for your dog. 

Dogs should not consume: raw onions, garlic, grapes, raisins, or chocolate or anything containing caffeine, alcohol or root vegetables. These can be toxic to their bodies. Some houseplants can be poisonous if eaten by dogs, too. 

Dogs are descended from meat-eating wolves, therefore meat should be included as a main ingredient in the most preferable diet for dogs. Dogs (wolves) are basically carnivorous in nature (at least biologically). Grains, fruit (e.g., blueberries and apples, but not citrus) and cereals should also be included in their diet in moderation. Vegetables are important for other nutrients and fiber and are included in most premium commercial dog foods, carrots are an excellent choice as a healthy treat, in bite sized pieces. Avoid sweets, salty items and overly fat foods. Too much fat in their diets can cause health problems and obesity just like in humans. It can also cause diarrhea if too much. A small amount of fat is needed to keep their skin and coats healthy, however. 

Table scraps are usually too fat, too salty and not nutritious enough and bad for their teeth. Brittle cooked bones, especially small bones like from chicken, can splinter and be dangerous and even puncture bowels, do not give those to your dog. Therefore, avoid these strict no-no's if you want your dog to be healthy. 

Giving your dog a quarter of a cup of canned pumpkin (like you use for pies, although not the kind with sugar, etc. already in it...just plain pumpkin) mixed in their food every day is very good for them nutritionally, helps their coats be healthy, and provides fiber that helps diarrhea or constipation. They love it, too.

well if your dog has digestion or stomach problems then iams is a good choice just make sure you use the food that best suits your dog's weight and health.

Some Foods dogs'd not eat

Want a happy, healthy pooch? avoid giving them these foods

A list of foods dogs should not eat if you want to keep them healthy and happy. Avoid feeding your dog these things and you will sleep well at night.

You will also learn the truth about what goes into your dog's food!

Contents at a Glance

• Why what you put into your dog's tummy i...
• Attention
• 17 Foods Dogs Should Not Eat
• This Is A MUST Watch
• What do you think about foods dogs shoul...

Why what you put into your dog's tummy is important

Just like you, what your dog eats is essential to their healthy and well-being, but did you know that feeding them the right things and cutting out the bad stuff can improve their life on a deeper level? What am I talking about?

Let's put it this way - our pets bring us so much joy. Hard day at work? snuggle up to your hound! worried about adult matters? give your dog a hug and it all goes away. It's a fact that animals like canines know an amazing sense of happiness that is so beautiful and joyous that they often times have dog programs working with hospitals to bring that same happiness to people who don't have much to look forward to.

Point is - when you realize how essential your dog is to your own well-being, you don't ever want to think about losing them, and if you have ever departed with a pet, you know just how hard it can be. I say this, because you can actually keep your dog around longer by changing their diet. Just like you and me, we can actually improve their longevity if we feed them the right things.

So now I want to tell you what foods dogs should not eat - including yours.

Attention

You can't imagine what the industry puts into your pet's dog food. The average life expectancy with this garbage nutrition is 11 years. Changing their diet can result into a 27 year lifespan. 

17 Foods Dogs Should Not Eat

A list of things you should not feed to man's best friend

There are many things that your dog should not eat, and for complete information on dog nutrition, I suggest checking out Dog Food Secrets which will guide you through the process of keeping your pet safe. Certain foods can make your dog have digest problems, cause them to be seriously ill and at the very worst lead to death. Here are some that you should avoid.

Cat Food Anyone could easily make the mistake of giving their canine friend cat food, and why not? cat's eat it and we tend to have both, but the truth is that cat food is way too high in protein and fatty acids for a dog's stomach.

Avocado : All parts of avocado contain Persin which can lead to vomiting and problems with diarrhea.

Caffeine : Coffees, teas or chocolates contain high amounts of caffeine which can be hard on their heart and nervous system.

Fish : Any type of fish, either raw or cooked is bad for your dog. It will cause a vitamin B deficiency which can lead to a seizure.

Grapes : Grapes contain a toxin that causes damage to a dog's kidneys.

Dairy : Dogs will experience issues with extreme diarrhea if given milks, cheeses and other dairy products.

Mushrooms : These contain many different toxins that can lead to death or cause them to go into shock.

Raw Meat : In movies you may see a raw piece of meat thrown to a hungry hound, but in actual fact it will give them problems with vomiting and diarrhea.

Salt : Salt is harmful to dogs because it causes problems with their electrolyte levels.

Onions or Garlic :Both of these items destroy red blood cells in dogs and can lead to anemia.

Macadamia Nuts : It only takes 6 of these to make a dog sick. It can cause their heart rate to increase dramatically, lead to paralysis, vomiting and even death.

Xylitol : Xylitol is found in candies, gum and even toothpaste. If your dog is given this liver failure is an extreme risk and they can go into seizures.

Scraps of Fat :Many people will commonly give their dogs table scraps, but this is unwise. Fat trimmings can cause pancreatitis in your dog. Scrap bones can cause them to choke.

Peach and Plum Pits : The pits in both peaches and plums contain minute traces of cyanide, which in small dosage may not be harmful to humans, but to dogs it could be another story. Pits also cause inflammation in the smell intestine.

Raw Eggs : Eggs in raw form can often contain E.coli and salmonella. Plus eggs can cause your dog to have skin problems.

Yeast : Yeast can have a reaction in your dog's stomach and cause stomach pains.

Human Medication : I can't specify everything here, and some people might think that common answers to simple human problems might be good for their dog, but most of the time this is not the case. You should always check with your vet first about what you can and cannot give a dog.

10 life-threatening behavior myths in dogs

Do you think puppy classes pose health risks? Does your dog seem to act angry with you? Do you punish your dog? If so, read on and see the truth behind these and other common misconceptions when it comes to dogs’ behavior.

Myth #1I’m embarrassed to talk to my veterinarian about my pet’s behavior. I’m afraid that I’m the cause of the problem!

A variety of factors play a role in the development of behavior problems, including a pet’s genetics, early experiences, and environment. While you can certainly worsen a pet’s behavior problem with inappropriate training methods, it is highly unlikely that you caused your pet’s behavior problems. 

Many medical conditions and medications can also contribute to behavior changes, so your veterinarian is the best person to consult first when your pet exhibits worrisome behaviors.

FACT: Don’t hesitate to ask your veterinarian about any problem that may affect your pet’s health and well-being. Most behavior problems are at least manageable—if not valarie v. tynes, Dvm, DaCvB

Premier veterinary Behavior always curable. But the sooner you seek qualified advice, the higher the likelihood you can successfully treat the problem.

Myth #2 Puppies shouldn’t go to puppy classes until they have had all of their shots or they will get sick.

The critical period for socialization in dogs lasts from the fourth to the 14th week of life. During this time, dogs learn about their environment, other dogs, and people. Poorly socialized dogs are more likely to exhibit behaviors that make them unsuitable as a pet and result in relinquishment to an animal shelter or euthanasia. Thus, the likelihood of death due to poor socialization is greater than the likelihood of illness or death due to contagious disease—as long as the puppy class is managed properly. 

All puppy classes should

• Only mix puppies of similar age

• Require that all puppies have their first vaccination several days before the beginning of the class

• Be held on an indoor surface that can be sanitized

• Clean all puppy waste immediately and disinfect the soiled area

• Not allow any puppies into the class that show signs of illness.

FACT: Proper early socialization can save a dog’s life and is the best way to ensure that you end up with a pet that is well adjusted and a joy to live with for many years.

Myth #3My dog is aggressive/fearful/shy because he/she was abused as a puppy.

While this may be a possibility in the case of some re-homed dogs whose exact histories are unknown, the most common cause of fearful behavior in dogs is inadequate or inappropriate early socialization. Fearful behavior is also 

heritable, so some dogs are born with a predisposition to shyness or fearfulness. 

Proper socialization may be even more critical in these individuals.

FACT: No matter the cause, dogs that exhibit fearful or anxious behavior frequently may be suffering and should be evaluated by a veterinarian. These animals can be helped in many different ways.

Myth #4I want that new medication I heard about to treat my pet’s <insert behavior problem here>.

Medications alone rarely completely solve a behavior problem. Behavior modification and environmental modification are usually necessary to achieve long-term, lasting improvement. Some medications 

have been shown to increase the speed with which the behavior modification takes effect and can be considered another useful tool in treating behavior problems, but they are not the sole remedy.

FACT: Medications can play an important role in the treatment of a behavior problem but only if used appropriately as a part of a complete treatment plan.

Myth #5Dogs that are aggressive are acting dominant.While some dogs truly exhibit dominance aggression, they are much rarer than the popular media would have you believe. The problem with outdated 

dominance theories is that they result in the recommendation of confrontational styles of training based on the 

erroneous belief that owners have to physically dominate their dogs. Not only is this dangerous, but it is usually ineffective and has resulted in damage to the human-animal bond far more often than it has led to success.

FACT: Most dogs with aggression problems are anxious or afraid and are more likely to respond to reward-based training under the supervision of a qualified animal behaviorist or board-certified veterinary behaviorist.

Myth #6 He must be angry with me. He knows what he did was wrong.Many dogs show submissive behaviors when their owners arrive home. These behaviors of tucking the tail, lowering the ears, avoiding eye contact, and slinking away do not mean “I am sorry” in dog language. They mean “Quit acting angry at me.” They mean that the dog has learned to associate the return of people to the home with the presence of 

feces, garbage, or other destroyed items on the floor. The dog is not angry—he is afraid because in the past when people arrived and these items were on the floor, he was yelled at or hit. Even if the dog was not yelled at or hit, the angry body language of the human is clear to the dog, and the dog still learns to feel fear when people arrive. Punishment in these circumstances does not teach the dog anything (except to fear the arrival of people). The dog is completely incapable of associating any punishment with the behavior he performed minutes or hours before.

FACT: Dogs do not eliminate on the floor or destroy items out of spite. The most likely cause of the behavior is anxiety or lack of appropriate exercise and stimulation (or incomplete housetraining). Rather than being angry at your dog, seek help from a professional. Your dog may be suffering.

Myth #7If you use treats to train a dog, you will always need them to get the dog to obey your commands.

The principles that govern the laws of learning have shown this to be completely untrue. Treats are an excellent means of reinforcing a behavior. Clear and consistent reinforcement is necessary when you initially begin teaching any animal a new behavior. For some animals, a vocal reward, toys, or petting may serve as 

good reinforcers, but food is for many animals the most salient reinforcement there is. The rules of learning show that when first teaching a new behavior, reinforcing every single time the behavior is performed on cue will lead to the fastest rate of learning. Once a behavior is learned, intermittent reinforcement is the best means of maintaining the behavior and making it most resistant to extinction. This means that you only 

have to use the treats periodically once the behavior is learned. People who believe that an animal is 

not responding because it knows there is no treat available have usually failed Information from your veterinarian

 ❖ 10 behavior mythsto use reinforcement appropriately or don’t realize that the animal has actually not learned the behavior. It is common for pet owners to think that an animal has learned a command long before it actually has.

FACT: When used correctly, positive reinforcement training with food rewards is far more likely to be effective and has less chance of doing harm than most other forms of training.

Myth #8 Dogs chase their tails or spin in circles because they are bored.Repetitive behaviors such as pacing, spinning, tail chasing, and foot licking have many causes. To infer they are caused by boredom oversimplifies a complicated problem. These behaviors may be caused by frustration or conflict. They may often be secondary to certain medical problems that cause itching, pain, or discomfort in a body part. Sometimes they are caused by seizures, and in other cases they result from other forms of brain dysfunction.

FACT: Repetitive behaviors are complex problems that require evaluation, diagnosis, and treatment by a veterinarian.

Myth #9 Oh, he has a behavior problem? Send him to a trainer.The behavior of all animals is a result 

of a complex interaction among their genetics, early development, and environment. For this reason, behavior 

problems can vary greatly in their underlying causes and must be treated by an appropriate professional. If your dog simply needs to be trained to sit, lie down, or heel, then a trainer is the best person to consult with. If, however, your dog is fearful of other animals, strange people, loud noises, or other benign stimuli; is aggressive under any circumstances; or is destructive when left alone, then you should consult with 

a veterinarian first. Veterinarians are trained to rule out primary medical causes for these problems and recognize when a problem requires referral to a specialist such as a board-certified veterinary behaviorist.

FACT: Anyone can call himself or herself a trainer or a behaviorist. This does not mean that he or she is the appropriate person to help you with your pet’s particular behavior problem. It is important to be aware of the variety of professionals available to help with pet behavior problems and to choose the proper individual for the problem. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior’s website (avsabonline.org) contains more information about these professionals and how to choose the right one for you and your pet.

Myth #10Some punishment is required to teach dogs proper behavior.Punishment should never be used as the first or only method of dealing with an unwanted behavior. Punishment can cause far more problems than it solves, especially if applied incorrectly or used on a dog with fear- or anxiety-related problems. It is 

extremely difficult for most people to use punishment effectively, since punishment is only effective if administered within one or two seconds of the unwanted behavior and is administered every time the behavior is performed. Inappropriately used punishment can severely damage your relationship with your pet and worsen many behavior problems.

FACT: It is much easier and more effective for you to teach your dog what behaviors you want it to perform and reward it for those behaviors than it is to punish your dog for unwanted behaviors.

Analyzing Dog Behavior and Puppy Behavior

A positive dog trainer and canine behavior expert dispels common and pervasive myths about dogs and their behavior.

Hang with dog folks long enough and you’re sure to hear some pretty interesting theories about dog behavior. Some are, of course, useful and accurate, but the dog training world is littered with myths, many of which are at least several generations old. Some of them are just silly; some have the potential for causing serious damage to the dog-human relationship; and still others are downright dangerous. It’s time to get past the myths.

It's critical that puppies be socialized to other people and other dogs, in safe public settings and well-run puppy classes. Far more dogs are euthanized due to behavior problems than illness from infectious disease.

Veterinary behaviorist Dr. Lore Haug of Sugar Land, Texas, recently compiled a comprehensive list of dog behavior myths. With her blessing, we’re sharing 10 of our “favorites” from her list, and explaining why these “busted” myths should not be used as the justification for a training or behavior modification technique. I am always exhorting my interns, apprentices, and clients to be critical thinkers. When someone offers you an alleged nugget of canine wisdom, regardless of who the someone is, you’re wise to run it through your own rigorous filters before accepting it as real wisdom or adopting it as the basis for a training technique. These should include:

• A scientific filter. Does it make sense scientifically? If someone assures you that shock collar training is actually positive reinforcement training because the shock is no different than someone tapping you on the shoulder to get you to stop a behavior, does that concur with your understanding of positive reinforcement? (That a dog’s behavior makes a good thing happen, so the behavior increases.) Don’t be fooled by the euphemisms “e-collar” and “tingle,” “tap,” or “stim” for the word “shock.”

• A philosophical filter. Is it congruent with your own philosophies about dog training and relationships? Positive punishment (dog’s behavior makes a bad thing happen; behavior decreases) makes sense from a scientific standpoint. That doesn’t mean you want to – or have to – use it with your dog, and risk the damage it can do to your relationship. Trainers with a positive training philosophy generally try to avoid the use of positive punishment, or any methods that work through the use of fear, pain, aversives, and avoidance.

• An “acid test” filter. It may seem sound scientifically, and it may feel okay philosophically, but does it work? If you’re comfortable trying it out and you don’t like the results, feel free to continue on and explore why it’s not working or simply toss it out. Just because it works for someone else doesn’t mean it has to work for you.

Now, keeping these filters in mind, let’s see how some of the most common and harmful myths about canine behavior create a flawed foundation for training.

Myth #1: “Puppies should not go to puppy classes/the mall/friends’ houses until they have had all their vaccinations at 16 weeks/6 months of age.” (Fails all three tests.)

This one lands squarely at the top of the “dangerous myth” category. It’s generally perceived as credible by new puppy owners because it’s often offered by the pup’s veterinarian.

While it appears scientifically sound on its face (an unvaccinated puppy is at risk for contracting deadly diseases!), puppies who aren’t properly socialized are at a much greater risk for developing behavior problems, including aggression, that are likely to shorten their lives.

The vet is right on one hand; the best way to ensure that your pup isn’t exposed to dog germs is to avoid other dogs. It’s certainly true that you want to prevent your pup’s exposure to unknown and/or possibly unhealthy dogs (and their waste). But it’s also critically important that your pup get lots of exposure to the rest of the world, including healthy puppies in a controlled environment, before the critical socialization period ends at 12 to 16 weeks. If he doesn’t, he’ll be at risk of developing serious, sometimes deadly, behavior problems. (See “Shoot for Early Admission,” Whole Dog Journal September 2007, for more information on early education for puppies.)

In addition, during the period leading up to the age of four to six months, your pup has protection from his mother’s immunities, and should receive “puppy shots” to cover that period of time when his mother’s protection starts to decrease. Not only is it “okay” to take your pup places while exercising reasonable caution, you have an obligation to provide him with extensive socialization in order to maximize his chances of leading a long and happy life.

Myth #2: “Dogs pull on leash, jump up on people, (add your own) because they are dominant.” (Fails scientific and philosophical tests.)

Like the first myth discussed, this one can be dangerous, because those who believe this myth are likely to believe that they need to use forceful methods to assert their status over their “dominant” dogs.

No one disputes that dogs living in a group understand and respond to the concepts and dictates of a social hierarchy. The fact that canine social structures share elements with human social structures is probably one of the reasons that dogs make such wonderful companions for us. However, most experts in animal behavior today believe that canine social hierarchies are much more based on deference than dominance, and that most canine behavior that many misguided humans attribute to dominance . . . isn’t!

A dog’s goal in life is to make good stuff happen. Behaviors often labeled “dominant” because they are perceived as pushy and assertive – like pulling on leash and jumping up – simply persist because the dog has learned that the behaviors are reinforced; they make good stuff happen. Pulling on leash gets her where she wants to go. Jumping up gets attention. Behaviors that are reinforced continue, and even increase – but they have nothing to do with social status.

If you remove all reinforcement for the unwelcome behaviors (pulling makes us stop; jumping up makes attention go away) and reinforce more appropriate behaviors in their place, the dog will change her behavior.

Myth #3: “If you let your dog sleep on the bed/eat first/go through doors first/win at tug-o-war, he will become the alpha.” (Fails all three tests.)

This one is mostly just silly. Some sources even suggest that the entire family must gather in the kitchen and take turns buttering and eating a cracker before the dog can be fed. Seriously!

See Myth #2 for the mythbusting response to this one. If you don’t want your dog on the furniture, that’s your lifestyle choice, but you don’t need to defend it with the alpha-garbage argument. I feed my dogs before I eat so I don’t have to feel guilty about them being hungry while I fill my own belly. I teach my dogs to sit and wait for permission to go through the door (“say please!”) because it’s a polite, safe behavior and reinforces deference, but not because I’m terrified that they’ll take over the house. And I like to win tug-o-war a lot because it reinforces polite behavior. You can quit worrying about your dog becoming alpha just because you don’t rule with an iron first.

If you are concerned that your dog is too pushy you can implement a “Say Please” program, where your dog asks politely for all good things by sitting – a nice, polite, deference behavior (see “Be a Benevolent Leader, Whole Dog Journal August, 2003). If you think your dog is potentially aggressive, it’s even more important to avoid conflict; your attempts to physically dominate him are likely to escalate his aggression rather than resolve it. (See “Biscuits, Not Rolls,” July 2006.) If aggression is a real concern, we recommend you consult with a qualified, positive behavior professional who can help you modify your dog’s behavior without the use of force.

Myth #4: “Dogs can’t learn from positive reinforcement. You have to punish them so they know when they are wrong.” (Fails scientific and philosophical tests; fails acid test unless punisher is very skilled.)

This myth has good potential for causing serious harm to the canine-human relationship. Research confirms what positive trainers hold dear: that positive reinforcement training is more effective and has far fewer risks than positive reinforcement training combined with positive punishment.

One study, conducted by scientists at the University of Southampton in the UK and the University of Life Sciences in Norway, evaluated whether punishment was a contributor to behavior problems, and examined the effects of reward, punishment, and rule structure (permissiveness/strictness and consistency) on training and behavior problems. Information was collected via questionnaires from 217 dog guardians. Those who used strong and/or frequent punishment had a significantly higher level of training problems and lower obedience in their dogs. A similar study, conducted at Britain’s University of Bristol, also found that dogs trained only with positive reinforcement exhibited fewer problem behaviors.

For most humans, this makes sense. Do you learn better if someone acknowledges (and rewards) you when you do it right, or slaps you upside the head when you do it wrong? Even if you get rewarded for doing it right, if you also get slapped for doing it wrong, your fear of getting slapped will likely impede your learning and make you more reluctant to try things.

Of course, a good positive training program makes use of management to avoid giving the dog opportunities to be reinforced for unwanted behaviors, and will also make judicious use of negative punishment (dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away) to let him know he made an unrewarding behavior choice.

For more information on why training programs that utilize positive reinforcement are most effective, see “We’re Positive,” January 2007.

Myth #5: “If you use treats to train, you will always need them.” (Fails all three tests.)

This just isn’t true. A good positive training program will quickly “fade” the use of food as a constant reinforcer while moving to a schedule of intermittent reinforcement and expanding the repertoire of reinforcers to include things like toys, play, petting, praise, and the opportunity to perform some other highly reinforcing behavior.

Treats can be a very high-value reinforcer and quite useful in training a wide variety of behaviors, so it’s plain silly to turn your back on them. Just be sure to fade food lures quickly in a training program, move to an intermittent schedule of reinforcement when your dog will perform a behavior on cue 8 out of 10 times, and incorporate a variety of reinforcers so you’re never dependent on any one particular reward choice. (For more information about how some people might fail when applying positive training techniques the wrong way, see “Positive Mistakes,” May 2007.)

Myth #6: “A dog who urinates inside/destroys the house/barks when he is left alone does so because he is spiteful.” (Fails the scientific and philosophical tests.)

This myth definitely causes harm to the dog-human relationship. Dogs don’t do things out of spite, and to think so gives owners a negative perspective on their relationship with their canine family member. Dogs do things because they feel good, they work to make good stuff happen (or to make bad stuff go away), or because they are reacting to events that occur in their environment. While our dogs share much the same range of emotions as we humans, they don’t seem to indulge in all the same motives. Spite requires a certain amount of premeditation and cognitive thinking that science doesn’t support as being evident in the canine behavior repertoire.

Dogs beg if they have been rewarded for it, whether itfs with human food or dog food.

There are two rational explanations for the behaviors described in this myth. The first is that the dog isn’t fully housetrained and hasn’t yet learned house manners. In the absence of direct supervision, the dog urinates when he has a full bladder (an empty bladder feels good) and becomes destructive because playing with/chewing sofa cushions, shoes, ripping down curtains, tipping over the garbage, and barking are fun and rewarding activities.

The other explanation is that the dog suffers from some degree of isolation distress. These behaviors are often a manifestation of stress and the dog’s attempt to relieve his anxiety over being left alone. If your dog regularly urinates (or worse) in the house or destroys things when he is left alone, he may be suffering from a moderate degree of isolation distress, or more severe separation anxiety. This condition can worsen without appropriate management. For more information, see “Relieving Anxiety,” August 2001 – and consider a consultation with an animal behavior specialist.

Myth #7: “If you feed a dog human food, he will learn to beg at the table.” (Fails all three tests.)

This is silly! One dog owner’s “begging” is another’s “attention” behavior, eagerly sought-after and highly valued. Behaviors that are reinforced continue and/or increase. If you fed your dog his own dog food from the table, he would learn to beg at the table. It has nothing to do with what type of food he’s being fed! If you don’t want your dog to beg at the table, don’t feed your dog from the table.

Whole Dog Journal readers know full well that human-grade food is better for dogs than much of the junk that’s in many brands of dog food. Whether it’s fed in a form that we recognize as something we might consume, or it’s been transformed into something that more resembles our mental concept of “dog food,” it all still comes from the same basic food ingredients.

Myth #8: “He knows he was bad/did wrong because he looks guilty.” (Fails all three tests.)

This myth is damaging to the relationship, as it leads owners to hold dogs to a moral standard that they aren’t capable of possessing. When a dog looks “guilty,” he is most likely responding to a human’s tense or angry body language with appeasement behaviors. He’s probably thinking something like, “I don’t know why, but my human looks upset. I’d better offer some appeasement behaviors so her anger isn’t directed at me!” Even when the “guilty” expression is a direct and immediate result of your dog’s behavior because your punishment was timely – “Hey! Get out of the garbage!” –your dog’s turned head, lowered body posture, averted eyes – are simply an acknowledgement of your anger and his attempt to reconcile with you.

A trainer friend of mine once did an experiment to convince a client that her dearly held “guilty look” belief was a myth. He had the client hold her dog in the living room while he went into the kitchen and dumped the garbage can on the floor, strewing its contents nicely around the room. Then he had the client bring the dog into the kitchen. Sure enough, the dog “acted guilty” even though he had nothing to do with the garbage on the floor. He just knew from past experience that “garbage on floor” turned his owner into an angry human, and he was already offering appeasement behavior in anticipation of her anger, and to divert her ire from his dog-self. (For more information about canine body language, see “I Submit,” April 2006.)

Finally, most owners who have punished a dog for something that was done in their absence can attest to the fact that the punishment generally does not prevent the dog from repeating the behavior another time. What does work is simple management. Put the garbage somewhere that the dog can’t get to it; under a sink with a safety latch on it, for example. Keep counters clear of anything edible. Leave the dog in a part of the house that is comfortable but not easily destroyed. Hire a dog walker to come by in the middle of your dog’s longest days home alone to let him out, give him some stress-relieving exercise, and leave him with a food-filled chew toy. These actions will result in an intact home – and a dog who is not afraid to greet you when you return.

Myth #9: The prong collar works by mimicking a mother dog’s teeth and her corrections. (Fails the scientific and philosophical tests.)

It’s a little discouraging to think that people actually believe this myth. It would be silly if it weren’t so potentially damaging to the relationship and potentially dangerous as well.

Prong collars work because the prongs pressing into the dog’s neck are uncomfortable at best, painful at worst. Because dogs will work to avoid pain and discomfort, the prong collar does work to stop a dog from pulling on the leash, and can shut down other undesirable behaviors as well, at least temporarily. However, like all training tools and techniques that are based on pain and intimidation, there is a significant risk of unintended consequences.

In the case of the prong collar, the primary risk is that the dog will associate the pain with something in his environment at the time he feels it, and this can lead to aggression toward the mistakenly identified cause. A dog’s unmannerly, “I want to greet you” lunge toward another dog or person can turn into, “I want to eat you,” if he decides that the object of his attention is hurting him.

If you have used or are considering the use of a prong collar to control your dog, please consult with a qualified positive behavior consultant to learn about more effective and less potentially harmful methods.

Myth #10: “Aggressive/hand-shy/fearful dogs must have been abused at some point in their lives.” (Fails the scientific test.)

This is a very widespread myth; I hear it so often it makes my brain hurt. Fortunately, while the behaviors described in this myth are problematic, the myth itself may be the most benign of our top 10.

There are many reasons a dog may be aggressive, hand-shy, or fearful. Lack of proper socialization tops the list, especially for fearfulness. If a pup doesn’t get a wide variety of positive social exposures and experiences during the first 12 to 14 weeks of his life, he’s likely to be neophobic – afraid of new things – for the rest of his life (see Myth #1). This neophobia manifests as fear, and for some dogs, as fear-related aggression.

Widely accepted categories of aggression include:

• Defensive (fear-related) aggression

• Possession aggression (resource-guarding)

• Maternal aggression

• Territorial aggression

• Status-related aggression

• Pain-related aggression

• Protection aggression

• Predatory aggression

• Play aggression

• Idiopathic (we don’t know what causes it) aggression

Note that there’s no category for “abuse-related” aggression. Abuse can be one of several causes of fear-related/defensive aggression, but is much less common than the fear-related aggression that results from undersocialization.

Regardless of the cause of a dog’s fearful or aggressive behavior, a myth-corollary to our Myth #10 is that love alone will be enough to “fix” the problem. While love is a vital ingredient for the most successful dog-human relationships, it takes far more than that to help a fearful dog become confident, or an aggressive one become friendly. For more about rehabilitating a chronically fearful dog, see “Fear Itself,” April 2007.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journals’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

Your Dog So Angry?

All dogs have some form of aggression, even those who appear to be pictures of calmness and domestication. “Territorial Aggression” is the most common aggressive behavior commonly exhibited by even the best trained dogs. Not sure if your dog suffers from bouts of territorial aggression, does she go absolutely crazy when you have company or a stranger approaches the house. This is classic territorial aggression.

What encourages a dog to display such aggressiveness?

It is perfectly natural for your dog to want to defend his home and make it known to others that the area is his territory. The following scenarios may cause your dog's aggression over his territory to escalate:

1. When riding in the car, a dog with extreme territorial aggression will bark incessantly at every person he sees and every object, which goes passed the window. Your dog is saying "Hey, You stay away, this is my territory!" While it is clear humans, nobody is actually approaching; the dynamics of movement of the car is lost on your dog. As the car moves away from objects and people, your dog thinks he is "winning". Therefore, the dog will bark even longer to celebrate his victory.

2. Aggressive reactions are reinforced, for example, whenever a delivery person approaches the house drops off a package and THEN leaves the territory, all the while your dog is barking nonstop. Your dog actually believes he drove the stranger away, with his barking, and this in itself creates more aggression.

3. Most dog owners do not realize yelling at their dogs is accomplishing nothing but creating more aggression. Whenever your dog is acting up and barking at the door (for whatever reason) and YOU starts to yell at him in order to quiet him down it creates an ongoing cycle of aggressive behaviors. Your dog thinks that you are "supporting" his aggression towards the approaching stranger or delivery person, by yelling, while he is barking. In short, it has become a unified front, you both against the approaching stranger.

4. Another reason why a dog may develop heightened levels of territorial aggression is he is isolated or locked up when there are guests and strangers inside the house. At first glance, it seems very reasonable to take your barking dog and secure him in a room or crate whenever you have guests. However, during this time, your dog can smell the "intruders" and he feels powerless to do anything about it; therefore, his aggression levels rise dramatically, causing stress and anxiety, which of course leads to more behavioral problems.