Analyzing Dog Behavior and Puppy Behavior

A positive dog trainer and canine behavior expert dispels common and pervasive myths about dogs and their behavior.

Hang with dog folks long enough and you’re sure to hear some pretty interesting theories about dog behavior. Some are, of course, useful and accurate, but the dog training world is littered with myths, many of which are at least several generations old. Some of them are just silly; some have the potential for causing serious damage to the dog-human relationship; and still others are downright dangerous. It’s time to get past the myths.

It's critical that puppies be socialized to other people and other dogs, in safe public settings and well-run puppy classes. Far more dogs are euthanized due to behavior problems than illness from infectious disease.

Veterinary behaviorist Dr. Lore Haug of Sugar Land, Texas, recently compiled a comprehensive list of dog behavior myths. With her blessing, we’re sharing 10 of our “favorites” from her list, and explaining why these “busted” myths should not be used as the justification for a training or behavior modification technique. I am always exhorting my interns, apprentices, and clients to be critical thinkers. When someone offers you an alleged nugget of canine wisdom, regardless of who the someone is, you’re wise to run it through your own rigorous filters before accepting it as real wisdom or adopting it as the basis for a training technique. These should include:

• A scientific filter. Does it make sense scientifically? If someone assures you that shock collar training is actually positive reinforcement training because the shock is no different than someone tapping you on the shoulder to get you to stop a behavior, does that concur with your understanding of positive reinforcement? (That a dog’s behavior makes a good thing happen, so the behavior increases.) Don’t be fooled by the euphemisms “e-collar” and “tingle,” “tap,” or “stim” for the word “shock.”

• A philosophical filter. Is it congruent with your own philosophies about dog training and relationships? Positive punishment (dog’s behavior makes a bad thing happen; behavior decreases) makes sense from a scientific standpoint. That doesn’t mean you want to – or have to – use it with your dog, and risk the damage it can do to your relationship. Trainers with a positive training philosophy generally try to avoid the use of positive punishment, or any methods that work through the use of fear, pain, aversives, and avoidance.

• An “acid test” filter. It may seem sound scientifically, and it may feel okay philosophically, but does it work? If you’re comfortable trying it out and you don’t like the results, feel free to continue on and explore why it’s not working or simply toss it out. Just because it works for someone else doesn’t mean it has to work for you.

Now, keeping these filters in mind, let’s see how some of the most common and harmful myths about canine behavior create a flawed foundation for training.

Myth #1: “Puppies should not go to puppy classes/the mall/friends’ houses until they have had all their vaccinations at 16 weeks/6 months of age.” (Fails all three tests.)

This one lands squarely at the top of the “dangerous myth” category. It’s generally perceived as credible by new puppy owners because it’s often offered by the pup’s veterinarian.

While it appears scientifically sound on its face (an unvaccinated puppy is at risk for contracting deadly diseases!), puppies who aren’t properly socialized are at a much greater risk for developing behavior problems, including aggression, that are likely to shorten their lives.

The vet is right on one hand; the best way to ensure that your pup isn’t exposed to dog germs is to avoid other dogs. It’s certainly true that you want to prevent your pup’s exposure to unknown and/or possibly unhealthy dogs (and their waste). But it’s also critically important that your pup get lots of exposure to the rest of the world, including healthy puppies in a controlled environment, before the critical socialization period ends at 12 to 16 weeks. If he doesn’t, he’ll be at risk of developing serious, sometimes deadly, behavior problems. (See “Shoot for Early Admission,” Whole Dog Journal September 2007, for more information on early education for puppies.)

In addition, during the period leading up to the age of four to six months, your pup has protection from his mother’s immunities, and should receive “puppy shots” to cover that period of time when his mother’s protection starts to decrease. Not only is it “okay” to take your pup places while exercising reasonable caution, you have an obligation to provide him with extensive socialization in order to maximize his chances of leading a long and happy life.

Myth #2: “Dogs pull on leash, jump up on people, (add your own) because they are dominant.” (Fails scientific and philosophical tests.)

Like the first myth discussed, this one can be dangerous, because those who believe this myth are likely to believe that they need to use forceful methods to assert their status over their “dominant” dogs.

No one disputes that dogs living in a group understand and respond to the concepts and dictates of a social hierarchy. The fact that canine social structures share elements with human social structures is probably one of the reasons that dogs make such wonderful companions for us. However, most experts in animal behavior today believe that canine social hierarchies are much more based on deference than dominance, and that most canine behavior that many misguided humans attribute to dominance . . . isn’t!

A dog’s goal in life is to make good stuff happen. Behaviors often labeled “dominant” because they are perceived as pushy and assertive – like pulling on leash and jumping up – simply persist because the dog has learned that the behaviors are reinforced; they make good stuff happen. Pulling on leash gets her where she wants to go. Jumping up gets attention. Behaviors that are reinforced continue, and even increase – but they have nothing to do with social status.

If you remove all reinforcement for the unwelcome behaviors (pulling makes us stop; jumping up makes attention go away) and reinforce more appropriate behaviors in their place, the dog will change her behavior.

Myth #3: “If you let your dog sleep on the bed/eat first/go through doors first/win at tug-o-war, he will become the alpha.” (Fails all three tests.)

This one is mostly just silly. Some sources even suggest that the entire family must gather in the kitchen and take turns buttering and eating a cracker before the dog can be fed. Seriously!

See Myth #2 for the mythbusting response to this one. If you don’t want your dog on the furniture, that’s your lifestyle choice, but you don’t need to defend it with the alpha-garbage argument. I feed my dogs before I eat so I don’t have to feel guilty about them being hungry while I fill my own belly. I teach my dogs to sit and wait for permission to go through the door (“say please!”) because it’s a polite, safe behavior and reinforces deference, but not because I’m terrified that they’ll take over the house. And I like to win tug-o-war a lot because it reinforces polite behavior. You can quit worrying about your dog becoming alpha just because you don’t rule with an iron first.

If you are concerned that your dog is too pushy you can implement a “Say Please” program, where your dog asks politely for all good things by sitting – a nice, polite, deference behavior (see “Be a Benevolent Leader, Whole Dog Journal August, 2003). If you think your dog is potentially aggressive, it’s even more important to avoid conflict; your attempts to physically dominate him are likely to escalate his aggression rather than resolve it. (See “Biscuits, Not Rolls,” July 2006.) If aggression is a real concern, we recommend you consult with a qualified, positive behavior professional who can help you modify your dog’s behavior without the use of force.

Myth #4: “Dogs can’t learn from positive reinforcement. You have to punish them so they know when they are wrong.” (Fails scientific and philosophical tests; fails acid test unless punisher is very skilled.)

This myth has good potential for causing serious harm to the canine-human relationship. Research confirms what positive trainers hold dear: that positive reinforcement training is more effective and has far fewer risks than positive reinforcement training combined with positive punishment.

One study, conducted by scientists at the University of Southampton in the UK and the University of Life Sciences in Norway, evaluated whether punishment was a contributor to behavior problems, and examined the effects of reward, punishment, and rule structure (permissiveness/strictness and consistency) on training and behavior problems. Information was collected via questionnaires from 217 dog guardians. Those who used strong and/or frequent punishment had a significantly higher level of training problems and lower obedience in their dogs. A similar study, conducted at Britain’s University of Bristol, also found that dogs trained only with positive reinforcement exhibited fewer problem behaviors.

For most humans, this makes sense. Do you learn better if someone acknowledges (and rewards) you when you do it right, or slaps you upside the head when you do it wrong? Even if you get rewarded for doing it right, if you also get slapped for doing it wrong, your fear of getting slapped will likely impede your learning and make you more reluctant to try things.

Of course, a good positive training program makes use of management to avoid giving the dog opportunities to be reinforced for unwanted behaviors, and will also make judicious use of negative punishment (dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away) to let him know he made an unrewarding behavior choice.

For more information on why training programs that utilize positive reinforcement are most effective, see “We’re Positive,” January 2007.

Myth #5: “If you use treats to train, you will always need them.” (Fails all three tests.)

This just isn’t true. A good positive training program will quickly “fade” the use of food as a constant reinforcer while moving to a schedule of intermittent reinforcement and expanding the repertoire of reinforcers to include things like toys, play, petting, praise, and the opportunity to perform some other highly reinforcing behavior.

Treats can be a very high-value reinforcer and quite useful in training a wide variety of behaviors, so it’s plain silly to turn your back on them. Just be sure to fade food lures quickly in a training program, move to an intermittent schedule of reinforcement when your dog will perform a behavior on cue 8 out of 10 times, and incorporate a variety of reinforcers so you’re never dependent on any one particular reward choice. (For more information about how some people might fail when applying positive training techniques the wrong way, see “Positive Mistakes,” May 2007.)

Myth #6: “A dog who urinates inside/destroys the house/barks when he is left alone does so because he is spiteful.” (Fails the scientific and philosophical tests.)

This myth definitely causes harm to the dog-human relationship. Dogs don’t do things out of spite, and to think so gives owners a negative perspective on their relationship with their canine family member. Dogs do things because they feel good, they work to make good stuff happen (or to make bad stuff go away), or because they are reacting to events that occur in their environment. While our dogs share much the same range of emotions as we humans, they don’t seem to indulge in all the same motives. Spite requires a certain amount of premeditation and cognitive thinking that science doesn’t support as being evident in the canine behavior repertoire.

Dogs beg if they have been rewarded for it, whether itfs with human food or dog food.

There are two rational explanations for the behaviors described in this myth. The first is that the dog isn’t fully housetrained and hasn’t yet learned house manners. In the absence of direct supervision, the dog urinates when he has a full bladder (an empty bladder feels good) and becomes destructive because playing with/chewing sofa cushions, shoes, ripping down curtains, tipping over the garbage, and barking are fun and rewarding activities.

The other explanation is that the dog suffers from some degree of isolation distress. These behaviors are often a manifestation of stress and the dog’s attempt to relieve his anxiety over being left alone. If your dog regularly urinates (or worse) in the house or destroys things when he is left alone, he may be suffering from a moderate degree of isolation distress, or more severe separation anxiety. This condition can worsen without appropriate management. For more information, see “Relieving Anxiety,” August 2001 – and consider a consultation with an animal behavior specialist.

Myth #7: “If you feed a dog human food, he will learn to beg at the table.” (Fails all three tests.)

This is silly! One dog owner’s “begging” is another’s “attention” behavior, eagerly sought-after and highly valued. Behaviors that are reinforced continue and/or increase. If you fed your dog his own dog food from the table, he would learn to beg at the table. It has nothing to do with what type of food he’s being fed! If you don’t want your dog to beg at the table, don’t feed your dog from the table.

Whole Dog Journal readers know full well that human-grade food is better for dogs than much of the junk that’s in many brands of dog food. Whether it’s fed in a form that we recognize as something we might consume, or it’s been transformed into something that more resembles our mental concept of “dog food,” it all still comes from the same basic food ingredients.

Myth #8: “He knows he was bad/did wrong because he looks guilty.” (Fails all three tests.)

This myth is damaging to the relationship, as it leads owners to hold dogs to a moral standard that they aren’t capable of possessing. When a dog looks “guilty,” he is most likely responding to a human’s tense or angry body language with appeasement behaviors. He’s probably thinking something like, “I don’t know why, but my human looks upset. I’d better offer some appeasement behaviors so her anger isn’t directed at me!” Even when the “guilty” expression is a direct and immediate result of your dog’s behavior because your punishment was timely – “Hey! Get out of the garbage!” –your dog’s turned head, lowered body posture, averted eyes – are simply an acknowledgement of your anger and his attempt to reconcile with you.

A trainer friend of mine once did an experiment to convince a client that her dearly held “guilty look” belief was a myth. He had the client hold her dog in the living room while he went into the kitchen and dumped the garbage can on the floor, strewing its contents nicely around the room. Then he had the client bring the dog into the kitchen. Sure enough, the dog “acted guilty” even though he had nothing to do with the garbage on the floor. He just knew from past experience that “garbage on floor” turned his owner into an angry human, and he was already offering appeasement behavior in anticipation of her anger, and to divert her ire from his dog-self. (For more information about canine body language, see “I Submit,” April 2006.)

Finally, most owners who have punished a dog for something that was done in their absence can attest to the fact that the punishment generally does not prevent the dog from repeating the behavior another time. What does work is simple management. Put the garbage somewhere that the dog can’t get to it; under a sink with a safety latch on it, for example. Keep counters clear of anything edible. Leave the dog in a part of the house that is comfortable but not easily destroyed. Hire a dog walker to come by in the middle of your dog’s longest days home alone to let him out, give him some stress-relieving exercise, and leave him with a food-filled chew toy. These actions will result in an intact home – and a dog who is not afraid to greet you when you return.

Myth #9: The prong collar works by mimicking a mother dog’s teeth and her corrections. (Fails the scientific and philosophical tests.)

It’s a little discouraging to think that people actually believe this myth. It would be silly if it weren’t so potentially damaging to the relationship and potentially dangerous as well.

Prong collars work because the prongs pressing into the dog’s neck are uncomfortable at best, painful at worst. Because dogs will work to avoid pain and discomfort, the prong collar does work to stop a dog from pulling on the leash, and can shut down other undesirable behaviors as well, at least temporarily. However, like all training tools and techniques that are based on pain and intimidation, there is a significant risk of unintended consequences.

In the case of the prong collar, the primary risk is that the dog will associate the pain with something in his environment at the time he feels it, and this can lead to aggression toward the mistakenly identified cause. A dog’s unmannerly, “I want to greet you” lunge toward another dog or person can turn into, “I want to eat you,” if he decides that the object of his attention is hurting him.

If you have used or are considering the use of a prong collar to control your dog, please consult with a qualified positive behavior consultant to learn about more effective and less potentially harmful methods.

Myth #10: “Aggressive/hand-shy/fearful dogs must have been abused at some point in their lives.” (Fails the scientific test.)

This is a very widespread myth; I hear it so often it makes my brain hurt. Fortunately, while the behaviors described in this myth are problematic, the myth itself may be the most benign of our top 10.

There are many reasons a dog may be aggressive, hand-shy, or fearful. Lack of proper socialization tops the list, especially for fearfulness. If a pup doesn’t get a wide variety of positive social exposures and experiences during the first 12 to 14 weeks of his life, he’s likely to be neophobic – afraid of new things – for the rest of his life (see Myth #1). This neophobia manifests as fear, and for some dogs, as fear-related aggression.

Widely accepted categories of aggression include:

• Defensive (fear-related) aggression

• Possession aggression (resource-guarding)

• Maternal aggression

• Territorial aggression

• Status-related aggression

• Pain-related aggression

• Protection aggression

• Predatory aggression

• Play aggression

• Idiopathic (we don’t know what causes it) aggression

Note that there’s no category for “abuse-related” aggression. Abuse can be one of several causes of fear-related/defensive aggression, but is much less common than the fear-related aggression that results from undersocialization.

Regardless of the cause of a dog’s fearful or aggressive behavior, a myth-corollary to our Myth #10 is that love alone will be enough to “fix” the problem. While love is a vital ingredient for the most successful dog-human relationships, it takes far more than that to help a fearful dog become confident, or an aggressive one become friendly. For more about rehabilitating a chronically fearful dog, see “Fear Itself,” April 2007.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journals’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

Your Dog So Angry?

All dogs have some form of aggression, even those who appear to be pictures of calmness and domestication. “Territorial Aggression” is the most common aggressive behavior commonly exhibited by even the best trained dogs. Not sure if your dog suffers from bouts of territorial aggression, does she go absolutely crazy when you have company or a stranger approaches the house. This is classic territorial aggression.

What encourages a dog to display such aggressiveness?

It is perfectly natural for your dog to want to defend his home and make it known to others that the area is his territory. The following scenarios may cause your dog's aggression over his territory to escalate:

1. When riding in the car, a dog with extreme territorial aggression will bark incessantly at every person he sees and every object, which goes passed the window. Your dog is saying "Hey, You stay away, this is my territory!" While it is clear humans, nobody is actually approaching; the dynamics of movement of the car is lost on your dog. As the car moves away from objects and people, your dog thinks he is "winning". Therefore, the dog will bark even longer to celebrate his victory.

2. Aggressive reactions are reinforced, for example, whenever a delivery person approaches the house drops off a package and THEN leaves the territory, all the while your dog is barking nonstop. Your dog actually believes he drove the stranger away, with his barking, and this in itself creates more aggression.

3. Most dog owners do not realize yelling at their dogs is accomplishing nothing but creating more aggression. Whenever your dog is acting up and barking at the door (for whatever reason) and YOU starts to yell at him in order to quiet him down it creates an ongoing cycle of aggressive behaviors. Your dog thinks that you are "supporting" his aggression towards the approaching stranger or delivery person, by yelling, while he is barking. In short, it has become a unified front, you both against the approaching stranger.

4. Another reason why a dog may develop heightened levels of territorial aggression is he is isolated or locked up when there are guests and strangers inside the house. At first glance, it seems very reasonable to take your barking dog and secure him in a room or crate whenever you have guests. However, during this time, your dog can smell the "intruders" and he feels powerless to do anything about it; therefore, his aggression levels rise dramatically, causing stress and anxiety, which of course leads to more behavioral problems.

The development and correction of canine aggression.

Introduction

Aggression in dogs is the most serious behavior problem that pet owners must deal with, and it is largely preventable if the owner understands canine growth periods and the factors that influence the development of aggressive behavior.

Health authorities report that more than one million people are bitten each year, but this number probably represents only half the actual bites; the rest go unreported. Although many bite wounds are minor, experts have reported that bites account for one percent of all emergency room admissions and cost about $30 million in annual health care. At least half of dog bite victims are young children, usually under 10 years of age.

Critical periods of socialization

Knowledge of the early growth periods of dogs helps to understand canine aggression. Puppies have a critical need for socialization from three weeks of age, when they can see and hear, until 14 weeks of age. Puppies should best be purchased between seven and eight weeks of age for proper socialization in the new home. Eight to 10 weeks is a fearful period, during which the puppy must not be harshly disciplined and must be handled gently by adults and children.

Fourteen weeks starts the juvenile period -- the dreaded adolescence -- that ends when the pup achieves sexual maturity, usually at about 14-15 months of age. If a puppy has not been socialized by the time he is 14 weeks old, he may never be trustworthy around people or other dogs.

Puppies raised in kennels where they receive very little human handling will often remain shy of people, particularly if they are not sold prior to 14 weeks of age. They may always be fearful, especially under stressful conditions.

Dogs reach sexual maturity at six to 14 months of age. During this period, they usually begin to bark at strangers and become more protective, and males begin lifting a leg to urinate. Introduction to strangers (adults, children, and other dogs) on the home property during this period is important as well, especially if the pup has missed out on early socialization.

Factors influencing aggression

Genetic and hereditary factors play a major role in aggression. Protective breeds such as Dobermans, Akitas, and Rottweilers are expected to be more aggressive than Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers. Feisty terriers were bred to kill small game, and they still retain this characteristic.

Inbreeding can create unstable temperaments, and hormones can contribute to aggressive tendencies in intact male dogs, females in heat or in a false pregnancy, and females nursing puppies.

Environment -- living conditions, lack of socialization, excessive punishment, being attacked or frightened by an aggressive dog, being spoiled or given too much unwarranted praise by owners, being isolated from human contact or being exposed to frequent teasing by children or aggravation by joggers --can also influence aggression.

Obviously, dogs are not people. They have a pack order that determines their social rank, a pack order that is established and maintained by body language. Some dogs occupy dominant or alpha status, and some have low rank or omega status. When dogs live with people, they look at humans as members of the pack and try to establish their place in the social order by challenging the more submissive family members, particularly the children. If dogs display a dominant gesture such as growling while guarding the food dish, and they are not corrected for this behavior, they have established a bit of dominance to build on with any or all family members. If these dominant gestures remain uncorrected, the dog slowly but surely gains in status over one or all family members.

The subtle signs of dominance usually go unnoticed or are explained away until the dog bites the human for infringement on his alpha position. The owner misunderstands the progression of behaviors and blames the dog for biting "for no reason." These dogs frequently end up at animal shelters and are destroyed because their owners misunderstood the development of aggressive behavior.

Types of aggression

There are several types of aggression: defensive or induced by fear, pain, or punishment; dominant; possessive; territorial; intra-sexual (male-to-male or female-to-female); predatory; or parental. A dog may exhibit more than one type of aggression.

Dominant-aggressive dogs are characterized as confident, macho, and "on the muscle." They stand tall, up on their toes, with their ears up and forward. They carry their tails high and wag it slowly and stiffly from side to side. They often have their hackles up, stare menacingly, and emit a low growl with lips pursed and teeth exposed. They will place a paw on the shoulder of another dog, mount people's legs, and push children aside when going through a door. Dominant-aggressive dogs are demanding of attention. They demand to go outside, demand excessive affection, are possessive of their sleeping areas, and stop eating when approached. Many of these dogs will not obey commands, especially submissive commands (such as "down" or "wait"). Males lift their legs on everything, even in the house, even if their bladder is empty. Most dominant-aggressive dogs are purebred males.

Defensive-aggressive dogs are much more ambivalent in their behavior. They display submissive body language (ears back, often flat against the head; avoidance of direct eye contact; lowering of the head and body; tucking tail between the legs; submissive urination) and they lick hands and roll over to expose their bellies. They resist handling, hate to have their feet touched, don't like to be groomed, and often shy away from human hands. These are the fear-biters; they may snap if cornered and will often bite at people who turn and walk away.

Preventing aggression

The primary goal is simple -- never allow any dog to achieve dominant status over any adult or child. If dogs always know their social ranking and are never allowed to challenge people, they will usually be good family members.

The first rule for preventing problems is to match the right breed and puppy to the right owner. In other words, the Rottweiler or Akita is not a suitable breed for a meek or mild owner or the macho owner looking for a tough, aggressive dog; the Dalmatian and the Flat-Coated Retriever do not fit sedentary lifestyles; the Shetland Sheepdog or the Chihuahua do not like boisterous, rowdy children, etc. Likewise, the litter bully will take over the home of a submissive owner and the shy puppy needs extra attention to adjust to an active household.

Puppy testing done by the breeder can help. The test includes social attraction, following, restraint, social dominance and elevation dominance.

Aggression prevention includes early socialization. Puppies should be handled gently, especially between three and four months of age. They should be hand-fed by children and adults and taught to take food without grabbing or lunging. They should not be allowed to chase children or joggers, jump on people, mount legs, or growl for any reason. They should never receive or be part of rough, aggressive play such as hand-fighting, wrestling, or tug-of-war games. Puppies should never be physically punished for aggressive behavior; instead, they should be denied the rewards of aggression, restrained from repeating the infraction, and taught alternative behavior.

If puppies bite at or jump on children, the children should take charge by screaming "Off!" and crossing their arms (to protect hands and arms from being grabbed) and turning away. Puppies love to play; if fun is denied when they get too rough, they will learn to play more calmly.

Puppy parties, where children of all ages visit and play gentle games and offer food rewards are helpful for the children and the puppy.

The puppy should be part of the family pack and should learn to accept delivery people, repairmen, and other strangers. Once they have been vaccinated against the common canine diseases, puppies should be exposed to non-aggressive dogs so they learn that other dogs as well as other people are friendly.

Older dogs

Food rewards help train young puppies, but as dogs get older, they must receive praise for good behavior and mild discipline for bad behavior. Dogs should earn everything they receive from their owners. They should sit to receive petting or treats, sit before going out the door, sit before getting out of the car, sit to have the leash attached to the collar. These exercises constantly reinforce the notion that the owner is boss.

Dogs should not be left unsupervised with children, especially children who do not live in the household. Children should be taught to use the basic obedience commands so they can exert some control over the pet as well.

Dogs should not receive excessive praise (or constant petting), especially for doing nothing. Excessive praise and petting elevates the dog's social status and sends him mixed signals.

Neutering male dogs will not solve all problems, but will help prevent dominance aggression and inter-male fighting, particularly when done before the pup reaches sexual maturity.

Finally, prevention of aggression requires that the owner win each and every confrontation with the dog. If the dog wins a showdown by growling when you try to get him off the sofa or take his toy or approach his food bowl, he receives a 'go' signal for the next step in an attempted takeover.

Genes + environment = temperament

Please remember this, if you don't remember anything else: Once a dog has reached dominant status, punishment cannot be used to correct a dominant aggressive dog!

The trainer may make the dog revert to a submissive-aggressive or defensive-aggressive animal, and the dog may respond to that person out of fear, but it will never be trustworthy around others, even family members. The most that may be accomplished is to reduce the frequency and severity of the aggressive acts.

With biting dogs, humane euthanasia is often the kindest form of treatment. Biting animals often go from home to home and lead a life of fear and severe, inhumane punishment.

Treatment

Treating aggressive behavior is best handled by a professional animal behaviorist or a very experienced, reputable animal trainer. There are a number of individuals who call themselves animal behaviorists or trainers who are poorly qualified. They often resort to brutal and sadistic methods such as "hanging" and shock collars to correct aggressive dogs. Excessive force and punishment are their main tools.

When seeking a professional trainer, always seek advice from your veterinarian and carefully interview trainers to find the one who uses the least amount of force necessary.

Treatment consists of listing all the things that trigger aggressive behavior and preventing these situations from developing. For example, if the dog growls when you try to remove it from the couch, don't allow it to get on the couch.

The first impulse is to minimize contact between an aggressive dog and the person or people he is most aggressive to. However, this scheme only encourages the dog to become dominant to more and more people and tightens his control of the household. Therefore, the individual who is having the most difficulty with the dog should become the main provider for everything the dog needs food, water, exercise, praise, affection, and all play activity. This person must be able to train the dog to obey basic obedience commands of sit, stay, come, and down. He will probably need a lot of help with the down command (which puts the animal in a submissive position) so he doesn't get bitten.

All other family members must totally ignore the dog no play, food, or affection. The dog must look on that one person as its sole provider of everything.

The dog must be rewarded for any signs of submissive behavior such as ears back, looking away (avoiding eye contact), rolling over, licking, crouching, or lowering the head when being reached for. Any dominant gestures that the dog will tolerate should be used frequently and the dog must be praised and given occasional food rewards for submitting. The dog must earn everything.

Once a dog starts to respond, then counter-conditioning can be started, but this should only be done with a qualified behaviorist-trainer. Counter-conditioning includes working with a dog that doesn't like its feet or hindquarters handled; it is also referred to as desensitizing the dog to certain stimuli or conditions.

To counter-condition a dog that does not like its hindquarters handled, first teach the dog to stand on command, then, with an experienced handler controlling the dog's head, the gently touch the rear end. If the dog submits, praise and give a food treat. Repeat praise and reward for each positive response. Gradually increase the duration and frequency of handling and praise the dog for each act of submission, no matter how small.

Aggressive dogs can be retrained under the right circumstances. Keep in mind, however, before anyone starts a program to correct an aggressive dog, he must realize that the dog may never be trustworthy around other people or children and may bite if provoked. Owners should always be given the cold, hard facts: they should never feel guilty for having an aggressive dog euthanized, but they should also realize that, if they are likely to make the same mistakes with another dog, they should not get another dog.

Do you suspect that your dog is aggressive?

The late Dr. Harvey Braaf VMD listed the following symptoms of dog aggression. None of these symptoms should be ignored; each can be a predictor of serious aggressive behavior. A professional trainer should be contacted if the owner cannot deal with the problem.In no case should the animal be abandoned to a shelter or rescue organization for adoption by an unsuspecting new owner.

• If you think your dog is aggressive check the following symptoms
• Excessive barking;
• A tendency to snarl, growl, or snap to protect food;
• Overprotectiveness of possessions;
• Fearfulness in new situations or around strangers;
• Severe attacks on other animals, such as cats or livestock;
• Attempts to mount people's legs;
• Snapping and snarling when petted, groomed, or lifted;
• Frequent attempts to chase moving objects such as bicycles, skateboards, cars and trucks;
• Repeated escapes from home and long periods spent roaming free

How to Avoid Dog Attacks.

• Avoid going onto private property unless specifically invited.
• Do not run when confronted with a threatening dog. Running only stimulates the dog to increase its aggression.
• Hold your ground and demonstrate moderate dominance by telling the dog firmly to go home. This usually works wonders. Firmly saying "no" and "sit" may also work.
• Avoid direct eye contact, which the dog interprets as a challenge. Instead, appear nonchalant.
• When the dog begins to back away, slowly retreat also, keeping the dog in view without paying much attention to it. If the dog begins to come back, stop and wait until it moves off again.
• Do not try to outdistance the dog on a bicycle. Stop, dismount and stand with the bicycle between you and the dog. Without something to chase, the dog may lose interest.
• Do not try to pet a strange, free-roaming dog.
• Never attempt to touch or pet a dog that is eating or sleeping.
• Do not be embarrassed to jump on a car, climb a tree, or call for help if you are threatened.
• Do not be embarrassed to ask a dog owner to restrain the dog until it clearly recognizes you as a friend.
• Avoid any encounters with guard-trained dogs. Find out if any are patrolling before you walk in a new area.
• Report all aggressive loose dogs or incidents of actual bites.
• Keep still and try to remain calm. Do not scream or run. (J. Michael Cornwell, DVM, advises children to "be a tree," with feet together, elbows against your chest and hands under your neck.)
• Glance at the dog so you know where it is, but don't stare it in the eyes.
• Don't turn your back on the barking animal.
• Let the dog sniff you. In most cases, it will leave as soon as it realizes that you aren't really a threat.
• Speak to the dog only in a calm voice. You might try: "Go away," "Go home" or "Nice dog."
• Wait until the dog leaves, then slowly back away until it's out of sight.
• As a last resort, throw or pretend to throw an object at an aggressive dog.
• If attacked, "feed" the dog something else--your jacket, bike, purse, books--to distract it.
• If knocked down, curl into a ball, and use your hands to protect your head and neck.
• Seek immediate medical attention for dog bites. All bites should also be reported to the police or animal-control department.

Dogs Bite Owners

Any dog can bite, but large dogs can inflict more harm.

When a dog bites its owner, the issue isn't a dog problem, but an owner problem. In most cases, dogs bite their owners because they don't respect the hand that feeds them--they feel entitled to enforce their rules because their owners have not properly trained them. In many cases, the owner has missed many warning signs from the dog before the bite. Other causes include abuse, frustration and fear.

Dog Breeds

Any dog can bite--but some dogs, simply because of their size and strength, can inflict more damage. People who want a dog for intimidation often choose larger dogs typically developed as guardians, such as German shepherds, Rottweilers and chow chows, or dogs with a reputation for biting, such as pit bulls. These dogs typically require a lot of training and exercise in order to become canine good citizens. If they aren't trained and don't respect their owner, they will challenge authority and move up in the pack hierarchy--and they may feel entitled to bite if challenged.

Causes

Dog aggression is a very complex topic, but in the dog's mind, its reasons for biting may be quite simple. If it bites when its resources--food, its position on the furniture or a toy--are threatened, it feels entitled to "punish" the owner for encroaching on its territory. Dogs that spend most of their time chained and isolated become very frustrated. Dogs are active, social animals and chaining a high-energy working dog creates such built-up frustration that it's more likely to bite the owner, children or passers by. Habitually abused dogs, dogs that suffer chronic pain, or that are unsocialized and anxious may bite out of pain and fear.

Warning

Most dogs give ample warning before they bite, but many owners don't understand what the dog is telling them. Dogs communicate by body language, often subtle and easily missed if you don't understand what the dog is "saying." A wagging tail may mean the dog is relaxed or friendly--or that the dog is warning you that it's ready to bite. Sherry Woodard, writing for the Best Friends Animal Society, cautions that some dogs give only a brief warning before they bite.

Bite Inhibition

Puppies learn bite inhibition--inhibiting the force of their bite--from their mother, littermates and through early training and socializing by their owners, according to the Partnership for Animal Welfare. A dog with good bite inhibition doesn't bite too hard when playing, fighting or when warning another dog or person to stay away. A dog that has never learned bite inhibition is more likely to bite instead of give a warning snap.

Prevention/Solution

Fair, consistent training and rules are the best way to prevent your dog from biting you for any reason. Puppies are cute, but as they mature into adolescents, they may start to challenge their owner's authority if the owner hasn't laid the first building blocks of training early. At the first sign of growling, guarding or threatening, get professional help from a good dog trainer. Deb McKean's Nothing in Life is Free, or NILIF, program is designed to be implemented into daily living, and merely involves requiring the dog to "work" by executing a basic command before every reward, meal, treat or walk. See the Resource section for more detail

Ask : Why Dogs Bite

Every year in the United States, 800,000 dog bites are severe enough to need medical treatment; 17 are fatal. Fifty percent of all American children are bitten by a dog before the age of 13. Literally every dog has the potential to bite. Luckily for us, most don't. Understanding what causes this phenomenon might help you to avoid becoming next year's dog-bite statistic. The following are six common reasons why dogs bite.

Dominance aggression

In cases of dogs who bite due to dominance aggression, members of the dog's human family are most often the victims. Innocently attempt to move a dog off the bed to change the linens; push down on his rump to ensure compliance with a sit command; step over a dog who's resting inconveniently in the doorway and the dog erupts in a "you'd better not do that" vocal warning, followed by a bite.

In each situation, the dog believes that he is in charge - that his humans have not earned the status to tell him what to do. Dominance aggression is most commonly - but not exclusively - seen in unneutered males and in confident breed types, such as rottweilers, chow chows, Lhasa apsos, English springer spaniels, Old English sheepdogs and Rhodesian ridgebacks, to name but a few. Obedience training as early as possible can abate a dog's tendency toward dominance aggression, but dogs who are naturally and intractably dominant aggressive must be closely monitored and kept clear of situations known to trigger the negative behavior. Hollywood trainer Shelby Marlo, author of "Shelby Marlo's New Art of Dog Training: Balancing Love and Discipline," states, "Management is underrated. There is nothing wrong with knowing the dog's limitations and living within those boundaries."

Protection of valuables

The protectiveness some people seek when acquiring a dog can prove to be a liability. Some dogs believe the only way to protect their valuables is through an act of aggression. A dog's list of valuables may include food, toys, territory (a house or a car) or even their human family members. Dogs have been known to "protect" one family member from another, driving crying children away from their mothers or chasing amorous husbands out of bedrooms.

The protection of territory is most often seen in males of guarding/herding breeds, such as German shepherds and rottweilers, while certain cocker spaniels and Labrador retrievers - females more often than males - put on ferocious displays over toys and chewies resulting in punishing bites to hands and faces.

Again, early training and/or lifelong management are the only solutions.

Fear aggression

The fear aggression response is most often directed toward strangers. Veterinarians learn early in their careers: when in doubt, muzzle. Like people, dogs are naturally fearful of unfamiliar and potentially threatening situations. A dog raised in a quiet adult household will be distraught by noisy, fast-moving youngsters. The dog may bark and lunge to drive them away and deliver a stinging nip to children who do not heed the warning.

There is no particular breed or gender predilection for fear aggression, but these biters commonly lack early socialization to a wide variety of people and experiences. ASPCA Vice President of Behavioral Medicine, Amy Marder, V.M.D., states that "with a dedicated owner and a responsive dog, fear aggression can be greatly improved."

Maternal aggression

The first two to three weeks after a female dog gives birth, her puppies rely on her for all they need to survive: warmth, nutrition, stimulation to prompt elimination and protection. Even the most outgoing, well-trained dog may show signs of maternal aggression if she feels her newborns are at risk. No training is indicated here, rather an awareness of the new mother's innate need for a safe space. By limiting visitors to the whelping box to one to two adult family members during those first couple of weeks, the new mother will stay relaxed and focused on the job at hand. There will be plenty of time for socialization once the pups' eyes are open and they are toddling about under their own steam.

Redirected aggression

An attempt to break up a dog fight is the most common scenario for this category of biting. Two canine opponents are barking, posturing and biting at each other when all of a sudden hands reach in and grab at collars, tails and hind legs. The adrenaline-pumped dogs blindly whip around and land oral blows to body parts of the interrupters.

Fights are best broken up by loud noises or strong blasts of water when available. However, sometimes that is not enough. If you must lay hands on fighting dogs, stay as far away from the mouth as possible and move swiftly and decisively.

Pain-induced aggression

While pain-sensitive breeds like Chihuahuas are common perpetrators, any dog may bite if hurting, depending on the degree of pain. An otherwise gentle dog will bite a beloved owner's hand trying to soothe, bandage or examine wounds. Like us, each dog has a unique pain threshold and tolerance. A sweet floppy-eared dog suffering from otitis externa may bite on getting his ears tousled; a dog with hip dysplasia may turn on a handler pressing down on his hips to enforce the sit command.

Of course, any dog can be provoked to bite by overly zealous physical disciplining.

Pestered beyond limits

There are dog biting incidents that don't fit into the aforementioned categories. Perhaps a new category is required, called "Pestered Beyond Limits." Bites in this category are often prompted by children (or adults) who simply don't understand that even a dog has limits. Hug a sleeping dog, blow puffs of air in his face, put a rubber banded knee-sox on his nose to turn him into an "elephant dog," ride him like a pony, stuff him inside a pillowcase just to see if he'll fit, poke, prod, tickle him, and sooner or later, the dog will say "NO!" the only way he knows how - through a bite.

There are three keys to bite prevention: learn to understand canine behavior, take the time to socialize and train all dogs - the younger the better - and teach children to respect all dogs, starting with their furry buddies at home. With this accomplished, there is no telling how low bite statistics can go.

If you are approached by a menacing dog:

• do not attempt to run
• stay quiet, and remember to breathe
• be still, with arms at sides or folded over chest with hands in fists
• avoid eye contact

The Dog And The Meter Reader

In 1997, the safety division of Con Edison, New York City's utility supplier, set a goal of a 20 percent reduction in worker accidents for 1998. By October, they were on target in every category except dog bites, having surpassed 1997's 24 bites in the third quarter. Bernard Duffy, project specialist for Environmental Health and Safety, and The ASPCA worked together to create a mandatory half-hour program for all Con Edison customer field representatives. The program aimed at preventing utility worker/dog interactions and minimizing injury should an interaction take place.

Field worker Edwin Gomez credits this ASPCA Bite Prevention Workshop for saving him from a serious injury. Upon arriving at a customer's home to read the electric meter, Edwin Gomez followed Con Edison's company policy, and requested that the family dog be secured in another room. That done, Gomez went to work. Before he finished, however, the dog escaped from isolation, flew at Gomez and grabbed his arm.

Fortunately, Gomez remembered the advice he learned at the Bite Prevention Workshop: "If bitten, push into the dog's mouth instead of pulling away." And push he did, using his flashlight against his arm for added pressure. Sensing he was no longer in control of the bite, the dog let go and ran away, leaving Gomez shaken but with no more than a couple of small punctures in his sleeve and a sore arm from the tetanus shot he got "just in case." At last count, dog bite incidents were reduced by more than 50 percent from last year.

Understanding And Correcting Aggressive Behavior : Your Dog Bites

The most common non-medical problem that dog owners ask me about is aggression toward people and other dogs. There is enormous variation in aggressiveness or assertiveness among dogs. Certain breeds such as chows are famous for this quality; but there is wide variation within any breed as well. Experiences in puppyhood influence aggressiveness as adults but genetics also plays a key role in this problem. Owner temperament is also a very important factor. The size of the dog involved determines the seriousness of this problem. Toy dogs can be almost cute when they growl and posture but large dogs are quite dangerous.

The dynamics of dog bites is not well understood by the public. Few people realize that the dogs involved tend to be family pets and not strays. Also, more than two-thirds of dog bites happen to people who are acquainted with the dog. More than half the dog bites occur to the very young and the very old and almost half of all bites to children are on areas of the face. Almost half of the claims made against homeowner’s insurance policies are due to dog bites.

Healthy mature dogs do not normally become aggressive. I can detect predisposition to aggressiveness in puppies as early as seven weeks of age. When I do detect signs that a pup will be an aggressive biter or a fear biter I caution the breeder or new owner that this particular puppy will need special care and training.

The Early Window Of Socialization

To understand canine dysfunctional aggression you need to understand factors in play when the dog was a puppy. Beginning at three weeks, when their eyes open, and lasting until fourteen weeks of age, puppies develop bonds and sensitivity to the people and animals in their life. If a puppy is not exposed to positive interaction with dogs during this period they may grow up without the skills they need to deal with other dogs. If they are not exposed to people in a positive way during this period they may never be comfortable with people. The middle of this learning window (8 weeks) is the best time to purchase a puppy.

Puppies brought to their new home at ten to twelve weeks of age may be more fearful and slower to bond with their new family. If the socialization process is delayed until the puppy is twelve weeks old or older the dog may never be relaxed or interactive with people or other dogs.

This is particularly true if the puppy has a natural shyness and fearfulness or if it is very aggressive by nature. If you do accept a puppy of this age be sure that you and your children handle it frequently and gently and not scold or speak to it harshly to it. Holding the puppy firmly and resisting the temptation to let go of it when it squirms to be released minimizes later aggression and dominant behavior. 

A puppy’s teenage years begin with it is sixteen weeks old and end when the pup is twelve to sixteen month old. Near the end of this period a hormonal surge causes dogs become protective and territorial. Males begin to lift their leg to urinate and females enter their first heat period. This will be the time that a normal dog begins to bark at strangers and guard the family and your property. This is also the time that some dogs begin to show objectionable aggressive behavior.

Factors Influencing Aggression

Besides age at socialization, individual genetics and breed are major factors in determining aggression. Guard dogs such as Rottweilers, German Shepherds and Akitas were bred to be more aggressive than the hunting and companion breeds. Terriers were bred as ratters and still retain their urge to snap. Hormones at play in intact male dogs and in females nursing puppies both increase aggressive behavior. Excessive punishment, teasing, chaining in the yard can all contribute to problem behavior. Too much undeserved praise also confuse dogs and lead to frustration and aggression.

Types Of Aggression

There are a number of types of aggression. The most common forms are dominant and territorial aggression. Some dogs show fearful, possessive or intra-sexual (male to male and female to female) aggression while others have a predatory form of this trait. Some dogs have more than one type of aggression.

Dominance Aggression

The Problem:

Dominant aggressive dogs are overly protective of their possessions and status. This is the most common form of aggression. These dogs tend to snarl and growl or snap when a family member approaches them near their food bowl. They attack other dogs as well as cats and farm yard animals. They often attempt to sexually mount people’s legs. When petted, groomed or detained in any way they will growl and snap. They often chase cars and bicycles. They love to wander and escape and will ignore commands that they return or heel. 

The first warning you will have that you have a dog prone to dominant aggression is when, as a small puppy, it growls when you approach it at its food dish or toy. This is the earliest sign of dominance. As this type of dog personality grows it will attempt to take charge of the house and the decision making process. Dogs that have dominant type aggression are very confident in new situations. Dominant aggressive dogs have very distinctive body language. They stand with their heads erect and their ears bent forward. They carry their tails proudly and stare intently at strange people and pets. They stand still facing the new individual and emit a low steady growl while they curl their lips and expose their teeth. These dogs will mount other dogs until the second dog assumes a submissive posture. They demand to be the center of attention in all situations and must make the decision as to who does what and when. They are oblivious to commands from their owner and never heal or look to their owner for advice or reassurance. They often urine mark new areas such as my veterinary office walls. Most of these dogs are unneutered males.

Dogs as part of the family see humans as members of their pack and attempt to establish their place in the social hierarchy by challenging more submissive family members, especially children. When dogs show dominant gestures like growling while guarding their food dish, and they aren’t scolded for this behavior, they inch up in dominance surpassing certain family members. Subtle signs of dominance can go unnoticed. Because we love them we explained these faults away until the dog finally bites a human who infringed on its alpha position. Owners often do not realize what occurred and think the dog bit for no reason." These dogs are often surrendered to animal shelters and are killed because their owners did not understand how aggressive behavior comes about.

The Solution:

Passive, submissive family members often have insurmountable problems correcting aggressive dogs. Obedience school is very helpful with this form of aggression but you must be willing and able to dominate the pet. The first thing to do when trying to correct this problem is to change the peck order of the pack – in this case the hierarchy within your family. Dogs are always happier not to have to be pack leaders. The dog needs to be at the bottom of the pack. You must become the pack leader. Husbands are often more assertive than their wives that is why many dogs that I see in my practice obey the husband and not the wife. To gain control of your dog you need to dominate every aspect of the dog’s life. When you play tug of war with the pup or dog; do not let it end up with the ball or rope when you are finished. When you feed the dog do not let it eat until you command it to come. Do not let dominant-prone dogs sleep in your bed or in the bedroom. Reserve that space for your family. Purchase a muzzle. Put it on just after you feed dog and take it off and give treats. Do not feed these dogs from the table. Instead, crate them during meals and feed them last. Neutering a young male dog significantly decreases aggression. Neutering them later in life is much less effective. If the dog has already begun to bite owners hiring a professional dog trainer is a good idea. You need to realize that not all dogs can be cured of aggression and that a trained dog may revert to its previous bad habits once the trainer has left.

General Rules For Preventing Aggression

Puppies:

Aggression ceases to be a problem when the pup becomes the lowest ranking member of the family. Once a dog accepts this social status he is well on his way to becoming a welcome addition to the family. dog bite agressive behavior

The first step goes back to before you purchase or accept a pup. Be sure that the breed and the individual puppy you choose are the right for your family. Sit alone in a room with the entire litter and observe them for a while. The more dominant pups will soon take charge of play activities and seek out strangers in the room. The fearful pups will be the ones that sit by themselves in the corner looking downcast. If you want a well behaved pet, do not choose the most dominant or the most fearful puppy. Breeds such as German Shepherds, Akitas and Rottweilers are not good breeds for timid owners. They need a family in which all members are willing to exert their authority. Lap dogs are wonderful pets but they do not like rowdy active children. If you choose a shy puppy you must be willing to spend extra time coaxing its courage in new situations. Realize that it will never become a confident dog.

All puppies need to be handled gently, firmly and frequently between the ages of six and eighteen weeks. They should be hand-fed by all members of the family and taught to accept food slowly and daintily without snapping or lunging. They should be verbally scolded or affection denied when they jump up on people, chase running joggers and children, ride legs or growl for any reason. Aggression-prone dogs should not be rough housed with, wrestled with or engaged in tug of war. Instead of physically punishing them one should speak to with a sharp “No” when they break the rules and then deny them affection and interaction for ten minutes. When they begin to understand what you consider objectionable actions reward them with a food treat.

Puppies learn good behavior from other dogs. It is good to expose them to well trained, people-friendly, non-aggressive dogs as playmates. It is amazing how quickly good behavior rubs off on misbehaving pets.

Adult Dogs:

Once a dog has assumed a dominance aggressive temperament it can be very difficult and sometimes impossible to change his outlook. Through fear, he may allow one or two members of the family to dominate him but he may never be fully trustworthy around lower ranking members of the family and children. I personally think these dogs are unhappy in their roles and long to have more assertive owners.

Adult dogs should always receive rewards for good behavior and be denied rewards for bad behavior. Normal dogs love to be petted and have their heads patted.. If you have a dog that is prone to aggression or bad behavior of any kind always have your dog sit and heel before petting, going outside, or entering and exiting the car. Dogs should be taught to sit calmly when you snap on their leash. These may not seem like important things but they help define the rules that apply to all activities that you and your pet will share. They also teach the dog that you set the rules. You must be totally consistent in your praise or criticisms. The dog will quickly learn that a given behavior always illicits a given positive or negative response from you. Never let him win a showdown or take charge. If you give an inch they will take a mile.

Praising and loving a dog spontaneously out of the blue confuses the dog. It also elevates the dog’s social status and can lead to dominance aggression. It is much better to have him shake hands, sit or fetch and then give him all the praise you want.

Neutering a dog in adolescence also decreases the likelihood that dominance aggression will be a problem.

You can try to alter triggers in your home that lead to outbursts of dominance aggression. For instance, if a dog growls when you approach it on the sofa make the sofa off limits to the dog.

Rather than limit the amount of contact that the family member(s) who are having the biggest problem with the dog have, make that person(s) the primary care giver for the dog. During this period have other family members ignore the dog. Dogs do not dominate people on whom they must rely.

Always reward these pets when they show signs of submission. These signs include laying their ears back on their heads, licking their lips, rolling over, sitting, avoiding eye contact and curling in their tails. Once a dog is displaying some of these activities begin slowly counter conditioning the dog to submission. This is done by getting the dog to allow you to handle its paws, hold it in a sitting or laying position and holding its head still. Make the dog lay down before it is allowed to fetch. Praise him and give him a food treat when he cooperates and gradually increase the length of his lessons.

Dogs that are severely dominant aggressive often stubbornly resist change to their status in the family. There are professional dog trainers who will attempt to modify your behavior toward the dog and the dog’s behavior toward you. But they are not always successful or they may only be moderately successful. Rather than martyr you and your family to a long term, unhappy situation I suggest that families in this situation find another home for their pet. It is amazing how much better a dog’s behavior can be in a new home.

Fear Biting Dogs

The Problem:

These dogs are very uncertain and tentative in their actions. They are sometimes called defensive - aggressive dogs. When faced with new situations with people or dogs they avoid direct eye contact and assume a low submissive stance. They stand with their ears flat against their heads and their tails tucked between their legs. They bend their head and neck toward any individual that seeks their attention while they lick their lips. They will often roll on their backs exposing their belly. Their expression is one of profound worry. They are very fearful about being touched and shy away from being petted stroked or brushed. At any instant they may snap and bite in fear. They strike out silently like a snake, never locking their jaws on another person or pet. They will often urinate and defecate in fear.

The Solution:

Most fear biting dogs were genetically born shy. It is highly unusual for a shy puppy to be born from gregarious, confident parents. One needs to do everything possible to build up these dog’s sense of confidence. Do this with verbal praise, petting and treats. Enlist your friends in this activity. In order not to get bitten, begin this process with a muzzled dog. Just remove the muzzle for the dog to eat. Only feed the dog from your hands. You can crate the dog and let the neighbors feed it when it gets very hungry. If a shy dog comes to you of its own free will it will not bit unless a sudden movement or loud sound is made. Sometimes the pets are so shy that the food treat needs to be put on a long stick at first. With the dog muzzled take him wherever you go to expose him to new people and situations. Begin slowly – no more than the mall parking lot. Try to calm and stroke the dog as you go. Take dog wherever you go. Keep the leash short and taunt. Calm and stroke the pet. Obedience training is very helpful for dogs that are not too shy to go to class.

I find that a small dose of Acepromazine tranquilizer is extremely helpful in starting these dogs in their education. Valium seems to have little effect on dogs. I give acepromazine at 0.38mg/pound. You can pick it up at your veterinarians and give it in a food treat thirty minutes before lessons. 

Territorially Aggressive Dogs

The Problem:

Fiercely guarding their home is common characteristic of dogs. Dogs have an innate need dominate their own real estate. As puppies grow to dogs they begin to regard the yard, the home and their car as their personal property. I live on Sarasota bay on the Gulf of Mexico and here dogs guard their sailboat homes and the dock from strangers just as fiercely. Territorial aggression is what gets the mailman and the meter reader bitten.

Territorial aggression is a prized attribute in guard dog breeds such as German Shepherds, Rottweilers and Akitas. If you do not want an aggressive guard dog do not purchase these type of breeds. Some dogs readily learn to differentiate between welcome guests and intruders but others do not. They are very good at sensing your attitude toward strangers. If you are fearful, these dogs know it and will become protective.

The Solution:

To control a territorial dog you must first dominate the dog as the leader of the pack. In wolf packs an alpha-type individual leads the pack. In domestication you need to be that alpha individual. Becoming the pack leader is the first step in making the dog obedient to you. You set the rules and you decide who is friend and who is foe. The dog should look at you for advice when a stranger approaches. Enlist some friends to help you by approaching the house when the dog is hungry and cautiously feeding it some treats. Let your friends or willing strangers take the dog on short walks on a leash. Fence your yard so the limits of its territory is clear to the dog.

Predatory Aggression:

The Problem:

Australian shepherds, healers, border collies and other herding dogs have an instinctive drive to chase, worry and nip. It takes a supreme effort on their part not to apply their herding talents to children of the family as well.

The Solution:

Obedience training by every member of the family – especially the children helps correct this problem. These dogs are basically loving. They just have a very strong natural urge to boss and herd. This can be overcome if you make the dog aware that it is a problem. A sharp reprimand and a “no” is usually sufficient. You have to occasionally remind them of the rules. Dogs will usually not express this behavior when they are on a short leash.

New Developments:

A recent issue of Veterinary Practice News mentions studies on aggression in dogs that responded to suplementation with 5-hydroxytriptophan or 5-HTP as well as to 5-HTP given in conjuction with a low protein diet. . This ammino acid derivative of tryptophan is important in the production of seritonin in the brain. Brain seritonin levels have been linked to mood, agression and obsessive-compulsive behavior, in humans, dogs and primates. Neutraceutical grade 5-HTP is available online. A dose was not given.

20 Reasons Why Your Dog Doesn't Listen.

It's time to put an end to all the guesswork as to why your dog plays dumb, deaf, or you swear you’ve become invisible, especially when it comes to _________________ (fill in the blank).

I bet you had no idea that there are twenty factors. This section is my favorite and the longest chapter of my book. It can easily be a mini book of its own. Some call it the crown jewels of the book. Let's see if you agree!

Reason #1:Your Dog is Testing You or Doesn’t Feel Like Listening

Maybe you've been the provider, the spoiler, the mommy, the daddy, the buddy, the observer, or just the nagger, but definitely NOT the leader.

If we could read the doggie’s thoughts in a bubble above his head, it would read, “Oh come on. Who gave you the idea that I should listen to YOU now? Sit down, shut up and give me some treats or else I’ll pee andpoo on your bed tonight. Take that, you dog trainer wannabe!” 

Even if you are somewhat in charge, your dog rarely responds to you when it TRULY counts. This means he is testing you or even worse, playing dumb at that moment and at that location. 

Reason #2: You've Been Brainwashed into Using Treats for Everything

“As long as you keep those treats coming, I’ll do whatever you ask” is what crosses your dog’s mind as you keep shoving goodies down his throat and call it training.

Be honest. Do you have your voice and praise with you at all times or a bag of beef jerky? Even those trainers who advocate bribery can't do much without their pouch of hot dogs. If you don't believe me, challenge them on it and wait for that "deer in the headlights" look.

This debate has already been discussed in great detail in chapter four (Biggest Scam in Modern Dog Training). If you haven’t read it, please do so. It is the most controversial chapter of my book for a reason. Otherwise, it's like watching a movie halfway through. You can’t always guess what happened earlier.

Reason #3: You Are Mixing Commands and Not Being Consistent

You or another member of your family isn’t consistent or crystal clear with your commands. For example, one day, to stop your dog's constant barking, you yell out his name hoping that will do the trick. And the next, you change it to: “Hey,” “Shush,” or “Knock it off.” And when you finally lose it, you grab a shoe and start chasing after your dog, screaming, "Shut the %amp;# up!"

If the poor dog could talk, he'd say, “So which is it? Sounds like you guys don't even know what you want! How should I?”

One of the key elements in achieving solid results is being clear and consistent with your dog. Most owners and even some trainers practice every day and still end up with a very weak or sloppy-trained dog. Again, this could very well be due to poor communication and inconsistency in your training method.

Reason #4: You Thought All Along that it Must Be Your "Voice"

Sorry, but there is no need to sound like your husband, boyfriend, son, or your father-in-law in order for your dog to take you seriously. In case you didn't know, over ninety percent of dog trainers in America, and probably around the world, are actually women! I find it funny when some of you sound like Mickey Mouse when you are supposed to get firm with your dog, and growl like The Hulk when you need to come across as friendly or non-threatening.

Many of you make the mistake of dragging out the command, like: “Siiiiiiiiiit,” “Leave iiiiiiiiiiit,” or “Dowwwwn.” But, by doing so, you actually sound as if you are asking or singing to your dog.

Here's the Secret: There should be no melody in your voice while giving a command. So if it sounds like a request, a nag, or a drill sergeant, you've been misled. I always tell my clients, “Don’t nag it, don't drag it, and certainly don't shout it.” 

Even some trainers make the mistake of raising their voice while giving commands. Don't forget the undeniable fact that dogs can hear three to four times better than us. So why bother yelling at any living thing that can hear better than both of us combined? Unless it is a real emergency, save those lungs when you REALLY need to shout in order to get your dog's attention.

It makes me laugh every time I see a guy yell out a command and the walls in the room start to shake. All because the dog refused to sit, stay or lie down. Take it easy. Nobody's getting killed, for crying out loud. Trust me; you'll impress people far more when they see your dog responding to your instructions in anormal tone of voice. Let's face it; any moron can scream!

Reason #5:Your Dog is Spoiled. These Dogs Always Challenge Authority

You've probably already read this on my (Spoiled Dog Test,) and it can't hurt to bring it up again: Spoiled pooches, just like spoiled kids, rarely listen to you or anyone else. These dogs have you wrapped around their paw and they know it. All it takes is a temper-tantrum of barking, whining, scratching, jumping or bouncing back and forth; and you become hypnotized, find yourself giving in to your dog. 

Perhaps the reason you let your dog run the show is because he happens to be too old, too young, too small, too handicapped or just too darned cute. Or maybe your dog has had a rough past so now you've given him a free pass to be a jerk or do as he pleases. 

Some of you let your dog get away with murder because he's missing a leg, an eye, or even worse, has a few months to live. The truth is you can still modify ALL of your dog's bad habits to meet your expectations. Cesar Millan said it best: “Dogs don’t live in the past, but live in the moment.” Ironically, they are known to adapt to any circumstance and lifestyle.

Be honest. Your dog knows exactly what works on you and what doesn’t. So if you constantly baby her, you’d better be prepared for her to one day totally ignore you, or worse, embarrass you in front of your guests or out in public. From experience, your dog knows that you rarely follow through on what you say. 

Sometimes it's the spoiler who comes to the rescue. And I'm betting that person is most likely going to be your spouse, one of the kids, a relative, or the grandparents. These dogs pee and poo everywhere, beg for food, whine, and of course, use their annoying bark to get your attention. Some go from snapping and lunging, to full-on biting to make their point. (You guessed it; they are a lot like spoiled kids. Hopefully your kids don’t bite!)

Regardless of your method or philosophy, I think every expert out there would agree that the more you spoil your dog, the more he will ignore, challenge, attack people, other dogs, or some day, may eventually turn on YOU!

Reason #6: Your Training Technique Lacks "Diversity"!

We’ve all heard the saying, "Practice makes perfect." But if I get a bit technical here, it is actually correctpractice that will get you eye-catching results. In fact, when you carefully study topnotch trainers, you’ll find that they don’t always care about how often they work with their dogs. To them, how you train is far more important!

Think of dancing for a minute. Anybody can hit the dance floor and shake their booty and call it dancing. You see the same boring moves over and over again. There is no skill, no technique, no swag, no originality, and yet this person breaks a sweat honestly believing that they're one of the best dancers in town.

Whether it is dancing or dog training, your technique, your timing, your posture, your attitude and yourwillingness to take constructive criticism, will ultimately determine your raw success!

Now, don’t contact me for dancing lessons. I love to watch others dance, but I don’t dance, run or jog. Besides, I’ve watched enough Law & Order and know too well that joggers are the ones who always find dead bodies or become the victims of an assault. That’s why I’m sitting safe and sound leaving my butt print on my couch, watching "So You Think You Can Dance". And if you ever catch me running, it means the dog is chasing the Dog Prodigy! 

Reason #7: Your Dog isn't Off-Leash Trained to Listen From a Distance 

Don't you have a doubt or that nagging fear of how your dog may act once he gets loose? After all, no matter how careful you are, someday, somehow, your dog will run wild and play the “catch me if you can" game.

What's sad is even if you are the careful or the responsible one in your family, you can't always depend on your spouse, the kids, your roommate, or your gardener to close the gate behind him. This is why being able to get your dog to listen from a distance is a MUST!

It's even worse if you are one of those careless owners who prefer to walk your untrained dog with no leash. Ask yourself: Are you confident enough in his command response when he's not within your reach? How about when out of the blue another dog comes face-to-face with yours?

What if a kid wants to pet your dog, and he jumps up on him to show his affection or to take a chunk out of him? Don't forget the neighborhood cats, the squirrels, or if you live in the country, the chickens, horses, skunks, bears or even sheep and deer. And I'm sure there are some of you who put up with lots of coyotes and mountain lions.

Sadly, the majority of dog owners are completely helpless in these situations. Be my guest! Yell out, “NO,” “HEY,” or “Get over here,” all you want, but you can almost hear your dog laughing, “Yeah right. You honestly expect me to listen to you when I’m not even attached to anything? Suuuuuuuure. I don’t obey much when I'm across the room or across the yard. So why should I mind you when I'm totally free? Keep dreaming... human!”

This is what you get when you feel sorry for your dog and let him have some fun by running free to get a little exercise.

Your ultimate goal should be for your dog to respond from a distance, in any room, any yard, any park, or any beach, just with voice control.

Keep in mind; a truly off-leash trained dog means a dog that obeys from a distance and around hard-to-avoiddistractions. In simple terms, off-leash means complete verbal control of your dog under ANY circumstances. I'm not just referring to obedience commands like Sit, Stay, Down, Heel or Come. This also applies when you reprimand your dog from a distance with, "NO," "Leave it," "Off," "Calm Down," "Shush," "Be Nice," or any other command of your choice.

When you really think about it, even in your home or your backyard, 99.9% of the time your dog is withouta leash and not within your reach. You need to be prepared for that "what-if" moment! I am known to challenge pet owners and even trainers with my "what-if" questions. In fact—

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The more you think and prepare for every possible "what-if" scenario, the 

more you are preparing your dog and yourself for the real-world.

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If a trainer cannot prepare you for those "what if" moments, find a different one. As this clearly indicates their training only works around little or no distractions. I’ve seen trainers’ dogs act unruly and embarrass their handlers when they got loose around tempting distractions.

Dog schools that advertise advanced off-leash response and those who actually can back up their claim with their own dogs—or even better, with their clients’ dogs—are very hard to come by. After all, they should practice what they preach. Talk is cheap.

I’ve witnessed a few dogs attacking people or other dogs that belonged to these so-called trainers. Yes, you read that correctly! The trainer's dog needed more help! So you can imagine what kind of “expert” these folks were dealing with. (It reminds me of a mechanic who push-starts his own car to work every day.)

Reason #8:You Haven't Mastered the Art of Distraction-Proofing

We all know that life is full of distractions, yet many of you have little or no control over your dog when he is faced with your visitors, other dogs, or the mailman.

It's all about that progression. You see, in order to distraction-proof a dog properly, you need to start in your backyard. Within a few training sessions, move to your front yard. Once you are able to get your dog's attention in one area, see how well he obeys in an entirely new location.

After mastering those locations, move on to more challenging zones. As I mentioned in chapter one: You need to make your pooch street-smart. There are many circumstances out there that throw off even the mostseasoned pet owners. This is why it’s best to be prepared for ANY possible scenario!

For example, your dog should never break the stay command. I don’t care if dinosaurs come back to life and start walking the streets, stay means stay. No matter what, your dog should NOT move from that spot.

Prior to hiring me, many of my clients could not make their dogs stay for more than a few seconds. And the dogs that were able to do it for a minute or so, wouldn't even do that around dogs or when company was present.

Again, the main reason these dogs did not hold a solid stay was simple: All of them were taught to stay just because they were going to get a treat. My radar always went up every time I caught them licking their lips. The owners kept repeating, stay, stay, stay... gooood stayyyyyy...while the dog was drooling and staring at the treat five feet away from him. (WOW! Now that's what you call the highest level of difficulty!)

Don't you ever forget practicality in your training! You want to be so prepared that virtually nothing can catch you two off guard. We all know that relying on treats isn't a part of real life. Even show confirmation, agility training, or flyball aren't considered a part of our day-to-day routine.

Besides, how many of you really care about showing your dog? Yeah. Good luck competing at the next Westminster Dog Show with your fixed, mixed, or shelter dog. I know some of you might own a champion pedigree with real show potential, but from experience, I’ve noticed that the majority of people get their dogs spayed and neutered as soon as possible.

Are You on the Same or the "Sane Page" with Your Trainer?

In my years of dealing with thousands of dog owners from all walks of life, I discovered that people actually prefer a polite pet far more than a super-trained dog. And it makes perfect sense. Think about it: The majority of you could care less if your dog wins you bunch of titles, ribbons and trophies. (Maybe you'd enroll your pooch in “The Cutest Dog Contest,” but that’s about it.)

Don’t get me wrong; I have a tremendous respect for those who compete in obedience trials. Just like the Olympics, this is where you expect to see perfection! But let's face it; not everyone is or can be a perfectionist. How about you? Would you rather have a dog that has manners or a dog that obeys like a soldier? And if you pay close attention to obedience competitions, you’ll notice that all of those dogs are performing a routine, a task, or another well-rehearsed drill. What you don't know is even most of thoseexercises can't always be put to use out in the real world. (Like doing bunch of black-flips: Impressive to watch and fun to do; especially if you can DO them—but just not practical.)

Now, be honest. Do you really care if your dog can jump over obstacles, sniff out a dumbbell, and drop it by your feet? I seriously doubt it. How about a marvelous heel right next to you? Just being able to walk the dog on a loose leash is enough for most people to throw a party. And I'm also certain that not all of you are crazy about teaching your dog to come to you with his nose perfectly aligned to your crotch. (Only a few of you caught what I just described there. Folks, I just went over a number of exercises in obedience trials.)

Bottom line, if you can get your dog to come to you every time, that is a wonderful thing! I think I’ve made my point. The Canine Good Citizen Test is what I actually recommend. Since this test really prepares you and your dog for practical things. There are no dumbbells, no hoops to jump through, and no need to have your dog constantly looking at you or your cool hand signals. But even this test will challenge your trainingfoundation to its core.

Here's why: If you are struggling to get your dog's attention around minor distractions in your home, why make a fool of yourself in front of ten new dogs and strangers? It has been proven that dogs and people learn much quicker in a one-on-one setting rather than in groups.

In conclusion, you should always look for ways to get your dog to listen to you in real-world. And it can easily be accomplished without yelling, hitting or relying on that bribery nonsense.

This is where many desperately seek my help. They say, “Kevin, everything stops working when my dog _______ (fill in your reason). In most of these cases, I found that the owners didn't have the slightest idea how to desensitize their dog.

Let me clarify: Why should you even bother asking your dog to stay for you in front of another dog, in front of your cat, or frequent visitors, when you can’t even get her to stay in one spot in your yard, living room or in your kitchen for at least ten to fifteen minutes? Can you honestly get your dog to stay put ten feet away from you with your front door/gate wide open? How about risking it without the leash?

!!! Here's How Pros Distraction-Proof Their Dogs !!!

Top trainers are really into desensitization. Their goal is to get their dogs used to all kinds of diversions. Here’s a glimpse of their routine: They get their dogs accustomed to loud noises, kids playing and dogs that act differently. They practice around cats, squirrels, moving cars, garbage trucks, the vacuum cleaner and even the lawnmower.

From working around kids on skateboards and scooters, to soccer moms pushing strollers, they do it all. They condition their dogs to behave in front of the mail carrier, men in uniform, people in wheelchairs, and anyone wearing shades or baseball caps. And of course, they also get their dogs used to people of a different ethnicity and gender. Otherwise, any of these could set ANY dog off and cause him to bark, growl, lunge, or get very scared. My point is it should not even matter where you are, or even if you happen to run into someone who looks or acts differently! You and your pooch must remain cool, calm and collected.