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10/18/12

Raisin and Grape Toxicity in Dogs

Although many dog owners and dog trainers have traditionally used raisins and grapes as treats, RAISINS AND GRAPES IN LARGE QUANTITIES CAN BE LETHAL TO DOGS. As few as a handful of raisins or grapes can make a dog ill; however, of the ten cases reported to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC), each dog ingested between nine ounces and two pounds of grapes or raisins

If your dog has ingested large quantities of raisins or grapes, (s)he will immediately begin to vomit repeatedly, and will become extremely hyperactive and jittery. After about 24 hours, the dog will become lethargic and depressed. (S)he may experience abdominal pain and may stop urinating, drinking, and/or eating. (S)he will also become dehydrated. Both his/her vomit and feces will contain partially digested raisins or grapes. His/her breathing may become irregular, and (s)he will also become hypercalcemic (high calcium concentrations) and hyperphosphosphatemic

Ultimately, without treatment, the dog will go into renal (kidney) failure, and may die a horrible very painful death. Of the ten reported cases, only five dogs survived, and these only with early, aggressive, and long-term treatment

The best cure for an overdose, of course, is prevention. Because dogs can get hold of raisins or grapes from a variety of sources—the kitchen counter, the coffee table, vines in a private vineyard, a child’s lunch box—DOG-PROOF YOUR VINEYARDS and REMOVE RAISINS AND GRAPES FROM CANINE REACH. Do not feed your dog raisins/grapes as treats so that you can avoid him/her “getting a taste for them.” Remember that raisins are even more concentrated (and hence more toxic) than grapes—approximately four pounds of grapes equal one pound of raisins. The APCC also warns that any substance in large doses can be toxic.

However, if you suspect your dog has eaten a large amount of raisins or grapes, take your dog to a veterinarian immediately, and have them contact the Animal Poison Control Center for assistance. Have your veterinarian initiate decontamination measures, and administer fluids and/or dialysis to assist/restart the dog’s kidneys. Be aware that initially your veterinarian may suspect rat poison as the above symptoms are very similar to the symptoms of rat poison.

The APCC is still unable to determine the cause of renal (kidney) failure. Possibilities include 1) an agent in grapes and raisins themselves; 2) fungicides, herbicides, or pesticides contamination; 3) heavy metals; 4) high amounts of Vitamin D; or 5) fungus or mold contamination.

Information on raisin and grape toxicity is still very new; therefore, your veterinarian and fellow dog owners may not yet be aware of the danger. Please pass on this information to every dog owner, veterinarian, rescue group, breeder, newsletter, listserve, and pet food store you can.

After Your Dog Eats Chocolate

The ASPCA, Susan Thorpe-Vargas, M.S, Ph.D. in her article "Poisoned," and others strongly encourage pet owners to be prepared for a poisoning. When time can make the difference between life and death, it is important that the owner know steps to take immediately and have the first-aid tools on hand to take those steps.

To prepare, get knowledgeable. You'll avoid panic if you have educated yourself. Videos are great because they're convenient. A video is easy to play, can be viewed by a family together, and is a great way to relax in your easy chair while learning skills that can save the life of your pet.

Check Out This Veterinarian's Helpful Book

Dr. James Griffin and his associate, Lisa Carlson, DVM, wrote this thorough and picture-heavy book from which you can learn doggie CPR, rescue breathing and the Heimlich maneuver, as well as what to do for a wide range of emergencies: poisoning, drowning, bleeding, electric shock, fractures, cold exposure and heat stroke

Next be prepared by having on hand the tools you might need. The first-aid treatment for chocolate poisoning involves removing it from the body, quickly, before too much time passes and the theobromine has circulated, damaging the gastrointestinal tract in the process. The treatment includes:
inducing vomiting, which removes, and then administering
activated charcoal slurry, which absorbs.

The sooner this is done, the less the effects of the poison. That, in itself, explains the importance of dog owners having an emergency kit in their homes plus the knowledge for quick first-aid treatment.

To induce vomiting, Michelle Bamberger in Help! The Quick Guide to First Aid for Your Dog, Howell Bookhouse, New York 1993, recommends using three percent hydrogen peroxide, one-to-two teaspoons by mouth every 15 minutes until vomiting occurs. Alternatively, she suggests using Syrup of Ipecac. Use, she says, two to three teaspoons, only once.

You can get Syrup of Ipecac at almost any pharmacy. You do not need a prescription from your doctor. Syrup of Ipecac is inexpensive and will keep for several years if stored at room temperature.

After vomiting, Bamberger says to give the dog by mouth activated charcoal mixed with water to a slurry consistency. The dosage is 1 teaspoon for dogs who are less than 25 pounds and 2 teaspoons for dogs weighing more than 25 pounds.

Put Activated Charcoal in Your Emergency Kit

Toxiban Activated Charcoal. The substance is a fine powder form of processed charcoal that binds to many types of poisons and can keep them from being absorbed into the bloodstream. This product isn't easy to find online. We did compare prices when we found it and know this is a good deal. Check it out, getting some now, before you forget.

Toxiban might be wise to have in your pet emergency kit because it also is effective in adsorbing other poisonous substances eaten or drunk by dogs or cats. These toxins include, but are not limited to, strychnine, organophosphate and carbamate insecticides, herbicides, rodenticides, depressants and analgesics.

Some people have recommended burnt toast if you do not have activated charcoal on hand. However, at Tueskegee University veterinarians teach their toxicology students that "burned or charred toast is ineffective." 

In the event your dog has eaten chocolate, always gather as much information as possible. Note the type of chocolate the dog ate, how much chocolate was eaten and approximately when your dog ate it. Write this information down. Should you need medical help, your veterinarian will appreciate any facts you can provide. If you can't get this information quickly, don't belabor it. Write down what you can.

If several hours have passed between the time your dog ate a toxic does of chocolate and your finding of him or her, its possible that your dog is displaying severe symptoms. If your dog is having seizures or is comatose, don't delay, immediately take your dog to your veterinarian.

On the other hand, begin administering emergency treatment and contact your veterinarian or call the pet poison experts at the National Animal Poison Information Center at The University of Illinois in Urbana. Phone toll-free: (888) 252-7387. The Center provides computer-supported telephone consultation for potential poisonings. There is a nominal charge.

If your dog doesn't eat enough chocolate to induce toxicity, but is vomiting (without your prodding) or has diarrhea, it's likely that it's the chocolate's high fat content that is the culprit. Watch your dog carefully. You don't want him or her to dehydrate. Provide plenty of fluids.

If your dog's symptoms don't clear up within eight hours, call your veterinarian. If your dog is very small or young, call your veterinarian within four hours.

A good outcome is likely if treatment is provided within 4 to

Is chocolate poisonous to dogs?

You may have heard people say that chocolate will kill dogs? Does that make sense? If I can eatchocolate, why can't my dog?

Dogs and people are different in lots of ways. For example, dogs can run around in the snow all day in their bare feet and it doesn't cause them any problems. People can run around barefooted in the snow for 30 seconds or so before it hurts. There are lots of differences like that between dogs and people.

It turns out that, for dogs, a chemical in chocolate called theobromine is the source of the problem. Theobromine is similar to caffeine. According to this page, theobromine is toxic to a dog when it ingests between 100 and 150 milligrams per kilogram of body weight.

Different types of chocolate contain different amounts of theobromine: It would take 20 ounces of milk chocolate to kill a 20-pound dog, but only 2 ounces of baker's chocolate or 6 ounces of semisweet chocolate. It is not that hard for a dog to get into something like an Easter basket full of chocolate eggs and bunnies and gobble up a pound or two of chocolate. If the dog is small, that could be deadly.

It turns out that chocolate poisoning is actually not as unusual as it sounds. For a human being, caffeine is toxic at levels of 150 milligrams per kilogram of body weight (see this page). That's the same as for dogs! Humans generally weigh a lot more than dogs, but small children can get into trouble with caffeine or chocolate if they consume too much of it. Infants are especially vulnerable because they don't eliminate caffeine from the bloodstream nearly as quickly as adults.

Why chocolate poisons dogs and how to treat chocolate dog poisoning

While the pathetic begging look that goes across the face of a dog wanting chocolate can weaken the most stoic dog owner, stay firm. Do not give in. Ever.

Once dogs have tasted chocolate, they want more.

And for dogs, that's a bad thing.

You might disagree, thinking back to a time when you noticed a dog enjoying a tidbit of chocolate with no deleterious effect.

Don't be fooled.

The problem, according to veterinary experts, is that eating a speck of chocolate leads a dog to crave more. It can mean that your dog will jump at a opportunity to get any type of chocolate, not knowing that certain chocolates are more lethal than other types. Larger amounts of chocolate, particularly of the most toxic type, can bring about epileptic seizures in some dogs, and in all dogs, can kill.

Poisoning of dogs by chocolate is not as uncommon as you might think.

"Chocolate ingestions are one common reason why pet owners and veterinarians call us," said Dana Farbman, Certified Veterinary Technician and Manager, Client and Professional Relations, ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. "However, it would be difficult to verify an exact ranking in frequency of calls, as the types of substances we receive calls on can vary greatly depending on many factors, including the time of year. We generally do experience somewhat of a rise in chocolate calls around holidays, such as Halloween, Easter, Christmas, Valentine's Day and Mother's Day.

Why is Chocolate Lethal?

Chocolate contains theobromine. A naturally occurring stimulant found in the cocoa bean, theobromine increases urination and affects the central nervous system as well as heart muscle. While amounts vary by type of chocolate, it's the theobromine that is poisonous to dogs.

Symptoms of Chocolate Dog Ingestion and Poisoning

You can recognize that your dog has eaten a toxic dose of chocolate from the symptoms. Within the first few hours, the evidence includes vomiting, diarrhea or hyperactivity. As time passes and there's increased absorption of the toxic substance, you'll see an increase in the dog's heart rate, which can cause arrhythmia, restlessness, hyperactivity, muscle twitching, increased urination or excessive panting.

This can lead to hyperthermia, muscle tremors, seizures, coma and even death.

How Much Chocolate Is Deadly?

If a 50-pound dog eats a teaspoonful of milk chocolate, it's not going to cause serious problems. However, if that same dog gorges himself on a two-layer chocolate cake, his stomach will feel more than upset and soon it's likely he'll be vomiting or experiencing diarrhea.

To answer the question "How much is too much" is not simple. The health and age of your dog must be considered. Obviously if your dog is aged and not in top shape, his reaction to a plate of chocolate is going to be different from a young healthy dog of the same weight.

Another fact that must be considered is this: Not all chocolate is the same. Some has a small amount of theobromine; another type has a large amount and still another contains an amount that is somewhere in between. The quantity has a relationship with the weight of your dog. Small dogs can be poisoned, it is easy to understand, from smaller amounts of theobromine than large dogs.

Which chocolate is the safest, relatively speaking? White chocolate. It has the least amount of theobromine: 1 mg per ounce. Far on the other side of the spectrum is baking chocolate, which has a huge 450 mg of theobromine per ounce!

Here are a few other chocolates for you to ponder: hot chocolate, 12 mg of theobromine per ounce; milk chocolate, 60 mg/oz; and up there near baking chocolate: semi-sweet chocolate with 260 mg/oz.

You might try using this to remember these chocolates from least to most toxic: What Happy Moose Says BAA? Or: White-Hot-Milk-Semi-Baked. If you have a better way to remember, contact us!

Knowing which chocolate is the most toxic is important, but leaves one wondering how much must be eaten to poison a dog. The list in this box should be helpful. Maybe you can clip it and post it on your refrigerator? 
  • White chocolate: 200 ounces per pound of body weight. It takes 250 pounds of white chocolate to cause signs of poisoning in a 20-pound dog, 125 pounds for a 10-pound dog.
  • Milk chocolate: 1 ounce per pound of body weight. Approximately one pound of milk chocolate is poisonous to a 20-pound dog; one-half pound for a 10-pound dog. The average chocolate bar contains 2 to 3 ounces of milk chocolate. It would take 2-3 candy bars to poison a 10 pound dog. Semi-sweet chocolate has a similar toxic level.
  • Sweet cocoa: 0.3 ounces per pound of body weight. One-third of a pound of sweet cocoa is toxic to a 20-pound dog; 1/6 pound for a 10-pound dog.
  • Baking chocolate: 0.1 ounce per pound body weight. Two one-ounce squares of bakers' chocolate is toxic to a 20-pound dog; one ounce for a 10-pound dog.

Could eating chocolate really kill your dog?

Most dog owners go into a panic if their pet makes a lunge for the candy bowl — but is this worry really necessary?

Theobromine, a bitter chemical found in cocoa beans, is the molecule in chocolate tied to illnesses in canines. But how much theobromine is there in most chocolate? And how much theobromine would it take to kill household pets? It turns out, you might be more likely to die by chocolate than your dog.


Theobromine, the danger in chocolate

Structurally, theobromine is one methyl group away from caffeine, and the duo are often found together. When isolated, theobromine is a white, crystalline powderwith a bitter taste. The molecule is naturally found in cocoa beans, the main component of chocolate.

Physiologically, theobromine widens the blood vessels, causing a decrease in blood pressure. The molecule also acts as a diuretic, general cardiac stimulant, and in some cases, it alleviates asthma symptoms. Humans metabolize theobromine very quickly, much quicker than canines, and this is a part of the problem for man's best friend.

Cats lack the capacity to taste sweet foods (dog owners, feel free to use this fact in arguments of dog vs. cat superiority), leaving felines less susceptible to poisoning, since there's little reason to keep eating chocolate — without its sweet and/or bitter flavor, chocolate simply becomes a waxy solid.

How much theobromine is in chocolate?

Dogs dying from a theobromine overdose perish due to a combination of heart problems and respiratory failure. The amount of theorbromine necessary to kill one out of two members of the canine population (the LD50) is 300 milligrams per kilogram of body weight. Toy breeds like Yorkshire Terriers weigh around 3 kilograms, Cocker Spaniels weigh about 15 kilograms, while larger breeds like a Dalmation or St. Bernard weigh in at 25 and 90 kilograms, respectively.

Using this value of LD50, 900 milligrams of theobromine would kill your average Yorkshire Terrier, but is this a lot of chocolate? A single Hershey's Kiss contains 8 milligrams of theobromine — your tiny Yorkshire would need to consume well over 100 milk chocolate kisses before nearing death's door, an unlikely scenario. The considerable difference in weight between breeds also poses a problem here — what would kill a Cocker Spaniel would not even faze a St. Bernard.

Dark chocolate is the killer

As we move from milk chocolate to dark chocolate, the amount of theobromine increases, decreasing the quantity of chocolate your dog needs to eat before finding out if all dogs truly do go to heaven. The boutique Scharffen Berger 82% Cacao Extra Dark Chocolate contains 1100 milligrams per $3-4 bar - enough to easily meet the LD50 for a small 3 kilogram dog. A typical Cocker Spaniel would need to eat five of these large (129 gram) bars before death comes into the equation, quite a large amount of chocolate.

Could dark chocolate kill you?

Theobromine, in substantial quantities, can poison humans, with the elderly particularly sensitive to the molecule. The LD50 (amount of a molecule necessary to kill 50% of the population) for humans for theobromine is 1000 milligrams per kilogram, over three times that of a dog, but a very manageable number — especially when taking into account the human propensity for gluttony.

Looking at a range of human weights between 60 kilograms to 100 kilograms, consuming between 54 and 91 bars Scharffen Berger 82% Cacao Extra Dark Chocolate would allow an individual to reach the LD50 for humans. That's seven kilograms of chocolate for a person weighing 60 kilograms and 12 kilograms for someone weighing 100 kilograms. Eating 12% of your body weight in chocolate is an unusual way to shuffle off this mortal coil, but possible.

A phenomenal amount of milk chocolate is necessary to harm even smaller dogs. Thanks to the enormous amount of chocolate necessary to put your dog in danger, I would argue that you are more likely to die from a theorbromine overdose than your canine pal.

Dogs and Chocolate: Get the Facts

Most of us have heard that chocolate can make dogs sick. But how serious is the risk?

If your canine companion is more family member than pet, you may be in the habit of sharing the foods your family loves with him.

Although some people foods are fine in moderation, this is definitely not the case with chocolate.

Chocolate can sicken and even kill dogs, and it is one of the most common causes of caninepoisoning, veterinarians tell WebMD.

Veterinarian Michelle DeHaven says the worst case of chocolate poisoning she ever saw happened when some owners fed their eight-pound poodle a pound of chocolate on his birthday.

“We had to treat the dog with fluids and anti-seizure medication for five days," says DeHaven, who practices in Smyrna, Ga. "Every time we stopped the meds he would start seizuring again. You wouldn’t feed a kid a pound of chocolate, but they fed it to a small dog.”

No amount of chocolate is OK for your dog to consume. Dark chocolate and baker’s chocolate are riskiest; milk and white chocolate pose a much less serious risk.

What Makes Chocolate Poisonous to Dogs?

Chocolate is made from cocoa, and cocoa beans contain caffeine and a related chemical compound called theobromine, which is the real danger.

The problem is that dogs metabolize theobromine much more slowly than humans, Denver veterinarian Kevin Fitzgerald, PhD, tells WebMD.

“The buzz we get from eating chocolate may last 20 to 40 minutes, but for dogs it lasts many hours,” he says. “After 17 hours, half of the theobromine a dog has ingested is still in the system.”

Theobromine is also toxic to cats, but there are very few reported cases of theobromine poisoning in felines because they rarely eat chocolate.

Dogs, on the other hand, will eat just about anything.

Even small amounts of chocolate can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. Truly toxic amounts can induce hyperactivity, tremors, high blood pressure, a rapid heart rate, seizures, respiratory failure, and cardiac arrest.

Dogs and Chocolate: How Much is Too Much?

The more theobromine a cocoa product contains, the more poisonous it is to your dog.

Unsweetened baker's chocolate contains about 390 milligrams of theobromine per ounce -- about 10 times more than milk chocolate and more than twice as much as semi-sweet chocolate. White chocolate contains very little theobromine.

According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, one ounce of milk chocolate per pound of body weight is potentially lethal.

But the real danger lies with dark chocolate. Merck warns that deaths have been reported with theobromine doses as low as 115 milligrams per kilogram (2.2 pounds) of body weight.

So 20 ounces of milk chocolate, 10 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate, and just 2.25 ounces of baking chocolate could potentially kill a 22-pound dog, Fitzgerald says.

Serious toxic reactions can occur with ingestion of about 100 to 150 milligrams of theobromine per kilogram of body weight.

That means:
  • A 9-pound dog could be expected to show symptoms of chocolate toxicity after eating 1 ounce of baking chocolate, 3 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate, or 9 ounces of milk chocolate.
  • A 27-pound dog might have such symptoms after eating 3 ounces of baking chocolate, 9 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate, and 27 ounces of milk chocolate.
  • A 63-pound dog might exhibit symptoms after eating 7 ounces of baking chocolate, 21 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate, or 63 ounces of milk chocolate.
“In 27 years of practice, I’ve seen two dogs die from eating chocolate,” says Fitzgerald, who appears regularly on Animal Planet’s hit show Emergency Vets. “Both were under 20 pounds, both were elderly and both ate baking chocolate in very large amounts.”

Although most people would not eat a 4-ounce bar of bitter-tasting baking chocolate, this is not true of dogs, he says.

“Dogs experience the world through tasting it, and they are gorgers,” he says. “Baking chocolate tastes good to them.”

Your Dog Ate Chocolate: Now What?

DeHaven, who owns Cumberland Animal Clinic in Smyrna, says she typically gets two to three calls a month from owners whose dogs have eaten chocolate.

When an owner calls, she asks how much and what kind of chocolate the dog has eaten and the dog’s weight.

“If a 60-pound golden retriever eats a bag of Hershey’s kisses, there isn’t too much to worry about,” she says. “The dog will probably have a stomachache, but not much else.”

After eating a potentially toxic dose of chocolate, dogs typically develop diarrhea and start vomiting.

If the dog isn't vomiting on its own, the vet may advise inducing vomiting immediately to keep as much theobromine as possible from entering the system.

One method is giving the dog a one-to-one solution of hydrogen peroxide and water. But DeHaven says that treatment is now discouraged because it can cause esophageal ulcers.

She recommends syrup of ipecac, which induces vomiting.

When a dog shows signs of hyperactivity and agitation or is having seizures, the faster you get it to the vet the better. But there is no specific antidote for chocolate poisoning.

Usually, after vomiting is induced, activated charcoal is given to help prevent the absorption of the remaining toxins. Fluids are typically given along with intravenous drugs to limit seizures and protect the heart.

Symptoms of theobromine poisoning generally occur within four to 24 hours after chocolate is consumed.

Cocoa Shell Mulch: A Little-Known Danger

Most people don’t realize it, but those increasingly popular cocoa shell mulches used for landscaping can also pose a serious risk to dogs in the same way that chocolate does.

Terry and Dawn Hall found out the hard way several years ago when their beloved 105-pound chocolate lab ‘Moose’ died after eating just eight ounces of cocoa shell mulch used to landscape their Minneapolis yard.

The death prompted the couple to contact Minnesota state senator Scott Dibble, who sponsored a bill to require cocoa mulch sellers to warn customers of the potential danger to dogs. His bill was approved by the Legislature, but vetoed by the governor.

“It is my understanding that theobromine can be removed from cocoa mulch pretty easily, and that some manufacturers do this and others do not,” Dibble tells WebMD. “But right now there is no way for the consumer to know if the mulch they are buying has been treated.”

Nasal Discharge, Sneezing and Nosebleeds in Dogs

A runny nose indicates an irritant in the nasal passages. Because irritants also produce sneezing, these two signs tend to occur together.

Excited and nervous dogs often secrete a clear, watery mucus that drips from the nose. This type of discharge is not accompanied by sneezing and disappears when the dog relaxes.

Any nasal discharge that persists for several hours is significant. A clear, watery dischargeis typical of allergic and viral rhinitis, while a thick discharge suggests a bacterial or fungal infection. A nasal discharge accompanied bygagging and retching indicates a postnasal drip. A discharge from one nostril only is seen with oral nasal fistulas and foreign bodies and tumors in the nose.

Foreign bodies, tumors, and chronic bacterial and fungal infections can erode the mucous membranes and produce a blood-streaked mucus discharge or a nosebleed. Nosebleeds also occur with bleeding disorders such as von Willebrand’s disease and hemophilia. Trauma, such as banging the nose, may also lead to some bloody discharge. If you see blood in the nasal discharge, notify your veterinarian.

Human cold viruses don’t affect dogs. However, dogs are afflicted by a number of serious respiratory diseases that initially produce symptoms similar to those of the human cold. A runny nose, along with an eye discharge and coughing and sneezing, is an indication that you should seek veterinary attention for your dog. A yellowish discharge along with coughing and fever could indicate canine influenza and you should contact your veterinarian immediately.

Sneezing

Sneezing is an important early sign of nasal irritation. Occasional sneezing is normal, but if the sneezing is violent, uninterrupted, or accompanied by a nasal discharge, it’s a serious condition and you should consult your veterinarian. Some dogs will sneeze if your house has a new carpet or new cleaning agents are used. Perfumes, cigarette smoke, hairspray, and even scented candles may cause your dog to sneeze.

Sneezing with a watery nasal discharge and rubbing the face with the paws is typical of canine atopy. A sudden bout of violent sneezing, along with head shaking and pawing at the nose, suggests a foreign body in the nose. Nosebleeds can occur after particularly violent bouts of sneezing.

Prolonged sneezing causes swelling and congestion of the nasal membranes. The result is a sniffling or noisy character to the dog’s breathing.

Nosebleeds

Nosebleeds are caused by foreign bodies, trauma, infections, tumors, or parasites that erode the nasal mucous membranes. Some are caused by lacerations of the nostrils or puncture wounds from objects such as thorns or barbed wire. Nosebleeds are often accompanied by bouts of sneezing that aggravate the bleeding.

A spontaneous nosebleed may be a manifestation of a generalized clotting disorder such as hemophilia or von Willebrand’s disease. Vitamin K deficiency is another cause of spontaneous bleeding. It occurs most often with poisoning by rodenticide anticoagulants.

Treatment: Keep the dog as quiet as possible. Apply an ice pack wrapped in cloth to the bridge of the nose. If the nostril is bleeding and the bleeding site is visible, apply steady pressure with a gauze square.

Most nosebleeds subside rather quickly when interference is kept to a minimum. If the bleeding does not stop, or if there is no obvious cause, take your dog at once to the veterinary clinic.

Mouth Breathing

Dogs are nose breathers and usually do not breathe through their mouths except when panting. Mouth breathing indicates that both nasal air passages are blocked. In these dogs, no air is moving through the nose-only through the mouth. This may not be obvious until the dog becomes excited or begins to exercise.

Sneezing And Upper Respiratory Tract Problems In Dogs And Cats

Lots of my articles are plagiarized and altered on the web to market products and services. There are never ads running or anything for sale with my real articles - other than my time. 

Pets and people usually sneeze for one of two reasons: Either the membranes that line their nose are inflamed or a foreign material of some sort is present in their nostrils.

Nasal membranes become inflamed if your pet was exposed to an irritant or when it has contracted an upper respiratory tract infection.

When young dogs sneeze, it is usually due to an upper respiratory tract infection. When young cats sneeze, several common upper respiratory tract pathogens are often involved. When middle aged cats sneeze, it is usually due to the Herpes 1 virus of cats. When older pets develop sneezing problems, the causes are more varied. When older pets also experience drainage from only one nostril, nasal polyps and intra-nasal tumors are often the cause.

Infectious Rhinitis or Sneezing

Most of the sneezing dog that veterinarians examine have contracted an upper respiratory tract infections. Often, the only symptom of these mild infections is the sneezing. Pets commonly get exposed to these organisms at grooming salons, doggy parks and kennels. In people, we would call it a cold and it moves from person to person in the same way. Dogs and cats invariably sniff new objects so the chances of them becoming infected are far greater. These pet “colds” are caused by airborne virus and bacteria. The virus that cause them do not jump from dogs to cats or vice-versa, but the bacteria involved do.

One particular virus of cats that is often the root cause of sneezing is the feline herpes 1 virus (FHV1, rhinotrachitis). You can read more about that virus here.

The two common "cold" viruses of dogs are the Parainfluenza virus and the Type-2 Adenovirus. Both can cause "Kennel Cough signs", both are highly infectious and are both passed by sneezes from other sick dogs or from dogs that silently carry the infection. It is very common for the owners of sneezing pets to tell me that their pet was boarded, groomed or exposed to neighboring pets or a doggy park within the past two week or so. Pets that were recently obtained from animal shelters are also very likely to develop these problems. You can have your dog vaccinated against kennel cough. But these vaccines only reduce the severity of your pet's symptoms - they usually do not prevent infection. 

Very young and very old pets are more at risk. This is because the immune system of young animals is not fully developed. Once the transient immunity that was passed on to these youngsters from their mother subsides, they are susceptible to these organisms until they develop immunity of their own. Older pets may have age-related changes of the nasal membranes that make infections worse and their immune systems may not be as vigorous as they once were. These chronic changes are more common in smush-faced dogs and cats whose nasal passages are narrower than ordinary dogs and cats.

Bacteria and mycoplasma alone can cause sneezing. Both cats and dogs are susceptible to bacterial upper respiratory tract infections caused by Pasteurella, Bordetella, Streptococci, Chlamydia, mycoplasma and pseudomonad bacteria. Alone or combined with the Adeno-2 virus, they are the causes of kennel cough. Many of these respiratory bacteria are not particular about whose nose or eyes they irritate and have been known to cause similar problems in humans.

Some recovered pets silently carry these bacteria and virus in their system. Although these pets appear perfectly healthy, they can spread the infections to any animals that they come in contact with.

Next to the herpes 1 virus , Calicivirus, Chlamydia and mycoplasma are the most common cause of sneezing cats. Although sneezing may be the only sign of infection, most cats also have conjunctivitis (inflamed eye membranes) and some even run a low-grade fever and feel under the weather. Again, many healthy pets harbor these viruses and bacteria and spread them. (When sneezing begins In a household of pets, it is quite rare for more than one or two to show any signs; although all were exposed.)

The herpes1/rhinotracheitis virus is the cause of over two-thirds of the sneezing cats most veterinarians see in their practices. The incubation period after exposure to this virus is about 2-6 days. Relapses are common and cats that harbor this virus are usually infected for life. Only a few of them, however, ever show signs of this virus again. But much like the cold sore virus of humans, stress of any sort will cause a few cats to resume shedding the virus and show nasal signs, ocular (eye) signs or both. It is the bane (annoyance) of cateries and animal shelters alike. Sneezing usually subsides 5-10 days after it begins.

A recent article in the AVMA Journal compared the effectiveness of several antibiotics in combating this problem in shelter cats. Daily ammoxicillin-clavulanic acid (Augmentin) or Doxycycline were more effective than a 14-day cefovacin (Convenia) injection.

What Are Some Noninfectious Causes of Sneezing ?

Household irritants

The same household products that cause you to sneeze can cause you pet to sneeze. The most common culprit for cats is dusty cat litter containing small spicules (sharp crystals) of silica. Perfumes, cigarette smoke, household cleaners, fiberglass, bug spray and deodorants are only a few of the products that can cause your pet to sneeze.

Allergies

Although most pet allergies cause itching or wheezing, some pets sneeze due to pollens and mold in the air. If the problem occurs only seasonally, antihistamines might be of help. However, inhalant allergies in dogs and cats are much more likely to cause generalized itching and food allergies, when they occur, generally cause diarrhea.

Foreign Bodies

It is not uncommon for pets to poke their nose into grassy or dusty areas and come away with a small portion of grass or seedpods lodges in their nostril. Any nasal drainage of this sort will be confined to the side that has the object. Most pets eventually sneeze these objects out but some of them must be physically removed. These lodged objects will also cause drainage from the affected side of their nose.

When this occurs in older dogs and cat, the cause is usually different. These older pets are subject to nasal polyps, tumors and degenerative changes in their airways. As with foreign objects, the problem is usually confined to one nostril.

Tooth Abscesses

In both dogs and cats the third upper premolar tooth has roots that penetrate close to the nasal passages. If this tooth, or the ones adjacent to it, becomes infected, sneezing and nasal drainage may occur. 

Breed Characteristics

Certain breeds of dogs and cats have compressed nasal passages due to the shape of their head. These are called bracheocephalic breeds. Persian cats and other cats with a flat face are more likely to sneeze due to infection or irritating products and to sneeze longer. Any of the dogs breed that snore (Pekingese, pugs, bulldogs, Lhasa Apsos, Shia Tzu etc.) share this problem.

What Treatments Might Help ?

Veterinarians try to prevent upper respiratory tract infections in dogs and cats by vaccinating against the organisms that are commonly involved. However, most cats have already acquired the herpes 1 virus before their first kitten-hood vaccination and vaccine immunity to most upper-respiratory pathogens in dogs and cats is short-lived. So keeping your pets isolated from infected and carrier animals or places where they frequent is a much better approach. (That goes for crowded veterinary waiting rooms and vaccination clinics as well)

There is a joke among veterinarians that sneezing left untreated lasts all of 2 weeks; but if properly treated it passes in 14 days. This has a basis in fact and sneezing pets rarely warrant antibiotics. But it is not always so - sometimes sneezing the only the first sign of a more serious respiratory tract infection. This is particularly so when your pet's activity level and appetite are diminished.

One helpful way to tell if the problem is minor or more major is to take your pet’s temperature with a rectal thermometer. (Don’t bother to see if its nose is warm or cold – that never works) If the pet's temperature or its appetite, respiratory rate or activity level has changed significantly, just bring the pet in to your vet to be examined.

The normal temperature of a cats and dogs is about 101.5 - 102.5F (38.6- 39C) If the pet's temperature is over 102.7 it might indicate that the problem will develop into a more serious respiratory tract infection. In that case, antibiotics and other treatment could shorten its period of illness. Otherwise, rest, a comfortable environment and good nutrition will probably be sufficient. Feed your pets savory and strong aroma foods during periods of nasal congestion because their appetite depends on their ability to smell of food and that ability may be diminished.

If its nostrils become raw and inflamed, a bland ophthalmic ointment and frequent cleaning of the nose with warm, wet plegets of cotton might be all that is required.

When Herpes1/Rhinotracheitis virus is the cause of the sneezing in cats, it is difficult to permanently cure them. When this disease attacks cats repeatedly when it re-emerges from the pet's nervous system where it lays dormant. It sometimes causes irreversible erosions and changes in linings of the nasal passages (naso-turbinate bones) that can be helped but never entirely cured. As I mentioned , this virus persists in cats throughout their lifetime - but usually in a dormant form similar to shingles in humans . Low stress, good nutrition, vitamin A and antibiotics to combat secondary bacterial infections usually cause the disease to go back into remission.

If that treatment does not cure the cat's sneezing in a few weeks, Medications like trifluridine (Viroptic) or idoxuridine ophthalmic drops administered in their nose up to four times a day sometimes will. Steam administration, nebulization, or taking the pet with you into a hot shower area (don't get it wet) will helps cleanse its nose of exudates and open its nasal passages. Some veterinarians give acyclovir but I have not found it much help.

The amino acid, l-lysine, seems to help many cases of herpes1/rhinotracheitis resolve. This amino acid is thought to reduce the amount of another amino acid, arginine, that is present in the cat's body. Arginine is thought to be necessary for herpesvirus to reproduce. The suggested lysine dose is 250-500 mg per day sprinkled on canned cat food. Some give this supplement until the acute flare-up has resolved. But many cat owners continue the supplement indefinitely. Lysine can be purchased at health food stores. Pick a brand that is propylene glycol-free.

Sometimes, nasal corticosteroid spray (such as Nasocort) are helpful to dogs and cats with chronic nasal problems that lead to sneezing (chronic rhinitis). Placing a few drops of an ophthalmic or nasal saline rinse into the pet's nostrils three times a day might also help if your pet will put up with that. Some owners find antihistamines like Benadryl (diphenhydramine) help. (Remember to only give pets doses that are appropriate for there weight)

Foreign bodies that have lodged in the nose require different treatment. With time, the drainage from such objects becomes thick and yellow-greenish in color. The drainage is sometimes pinkish with blood.

It is very difficult for veterinarians to see into the nasal passages of small dogs and cats. X-rays often do not visualize small objects or tumors - CAT scans and MRI's are somewhat better. An instrument called a nasal endoscope will sometimes allow veterinarians to look into the pet's nasal passages - but it is most successful in larger animals. When one is lucky, objects can be grasped with an alligator forceps and remove or tissue biopsies can be removed for study. More commonly veterinarians dispense antibiotic drops and nasal saline drops to the affected nostril and hope the pet will sneeze any foreign object out with time. When that isn't successful, the object can sometimes be flushed out with a catheter under anesthesia. When the problem turns out to be a tumor, surgery is complicated, disfiguring and rarely curative. These pets do have a chemotherapy/radiation option.

I am always most concern when I encounter one-sided drainage in older dogs and cats that persists beyond a week or two. Most do turn out to have a tumor growing within the nasal passages and most of these tumors are malignant. They are often adenocarcinomas. But because of their location, it is very difficult to obtain a portion of these masses for pathological examination.

Are There New Options To Determine The Infectious Causes Of Sneezing and URIs ?

Yes,

Within the last few years, veterinarians have been given a tremendous tool for sorting out the various bacteria and virus that cause chronic sneezing in pets. These are the Real Time Polymerase Chain Reaction Tests (RT-PCR) that identify minute amounts of pathogen genetic material without having to grow the organisms in the laboratory. One of my favorite is the Taqman lab at UC Davis. They use RT-PCR to look for six of the most common causes of upper respiratory, nasal and/or chronic eye problems in cats (bordatella, chlamydia, calicivirus, herpes 1,influenza and mycoplasma). Similar panels are available for dogs. If your kitty has persistent sneezing, some of these organisms are not the likely cause; but the panels often test for all of them. The test's limitation is that the most common cause of sneezing, the Herpes-1 virus, is so stealthy that it can avoid detection with the PCR test when the cat is not experiencing a virus flare-up. So if the PCR test is positive for herpes-1, your cat is definitely a carrier of this virus. But if it is negative, the virus might still be sleeping somewhere deep in the cat's nerve cells. It is best run during a flare-up.

My Dog is Sneezing

A sneeze here and there is a normal event in a dog's life. You and I probably feel like it's a good thing to sneeze once in a while. Repeated sneezing, however, is not normal and may indicate a serious problem. If it goes on for too long, it may even lead to bleeding, and the sneezing will then turn into a bloody spray. If your dog is sneezing more than you think is normal, there are a few things you can do in order to get a better idea how serious it is.

What to Look For

Start your assessment by offering your dog a drink of water. Occasionally a drink alone will clear the oronasal passage of some irritant and resolve the sneezing. Next, look your dog straight in the eye and get an idea if there are any asymmetries of his eyes, face, or muzzle. If you have some sort of protective face- and eyewear, use it to prevent getting oral or ocular exposure to your dog's nasal discharge. Listen carefully to your dog's breathing in between the sneezing episodes. Try blocking first one nostril, then the other, to determine whether there is any form of partial or complete obstruction in either of the nasal passages. Use your flashlight and try to get a look into each of your dog's nasal openings.


What to Do

Ask yourself a few questions to figure out what to do next:
  • Does your dog suffer from allergies? Respiratory allergies are often the cause for seasonal bouts of episodic sneezing.
If your dog has allergies to various seasonal plants or pollens, this may explain the sneezing and your dog may respond well to an antihistamine such as Tavist, Claritin, or even Benadryl. In general, check with your vet for dosage and to confirm that your dog has no specific additional health risks that would prevent you from using them safely.
  • Has your dog been outside and/or unsupervised for any period of time recently? Inquisitive dogs are prone to sniffing new and interesting plants, objects, and substances, some of them dangerous. Any of these things can be inhaled, resulting in partial or complete obstruction of a nasal passage, pain, inflammation, and the resultant sneezing. Sometimes, even after one of these is evacuated, the irritation it has caused will promote continued sneezing episodes. A bee sting is a perfect example and one that can continue to get worse with time if left untreated. If at any time during your evaluation of your dog's sneezing, the symptoms worsen, get him to your vet immediately.
  • Did you see any swelling or asymmetry to your dog's face? Blunt trauma and insect bites or stings are common causes of facial swelling associated with sneezing. If blunt trauma is suspected, get him to your vet. If an insect bite or sting is your suspicion, as long as his breathing is not labored or wheezy, a dose of Benadryl may reduce the swelling and could even solve the problem.
  • Does there appear to be any sign of infection? Any yellow to green discharge from the nostrils, eyes, or mouth could explain the sneezing and point you toward your veterinarian for medical treatment.
  • Did you see any bleeding from your dog's nostrils? Though it is possible that repeated sneezing will traumatize your dog's nasal passages enough to cause bleeding, any blood from his nostrils is enough to merit a visit with his veterinarian.
  • Does the airflow through your dog's nostrils seem difficult or uneven?Nasal inflammation or obstruction will result in difficulty passing air through those openings. If this is the case, and the use of over- the-counter antihistamines like Benadryl, Tavist, or Claritin results in no improvement, seek your veterinarian's help.

How to Make Your Dog Like Your Cat

It's a classic tale that dogs have always hated cats, and vise versa. With lots of training and positive reinforcement you can do get them to like each other.

Steps

1 Basic tricks. Teach your dog "Uh-uh".Whenever they do something bad, wrong, or don't do something you say,say "Uh-uh" and they should stop. Now, teach them "Leave it". Say "Leave it" if your dog is sniffing something they shouldn't, or you drop food on the floor and they try to eat it, etc. They should look or walk away. Also, teach them "Stay". This one should be a bit harder to teach. After you say "Stay", they should stay where they are even if you disappear from view. The last command they need to know is "Come" (if they already come when you say their name, you can skip this part). Your dog should simply walk to you when they hear "Come". Be sure to practice these daily and when they do something correct, give them a treat and lots of love and praise. This is key.

2 Watch your pets. Leave them in the same room alone but still under close eye. Do this every couple days and record results. They should like each other more.Any other results than the following I don't know what to do about. Here are some possible outcomes and what to do about them:
  • If the dog goes towards the cat and the cat seems uncomfortable, then say "Leave it" to your dog. If your dog does not walk or look away, say "Uh-uh" until they do. Then say "Come" and give praise/treat. This reaction means that your pets do not really like each other but it is possible to fix.
  • If your dog walks up to the cat and the cat seems fine or is ignoring the dog, you may my not even need to read the rest of this. Your pets like each other. Give BOTH pets lots of praise.
  • If your dog leaves your cat alone, again, you may not even need to read the rest of this. Your pets do not hate each other and do not like each other either. This is good. Give BOTH pets lots of praise.
3 Talk with your cat. Get your cat alone and make sure the dog, any other people, or any other pets are not around. A good time to talk is during feeding time. Tell your cat it will be okay,that you love them and that you ARE working with the dog and making progress. Reassure them. Love them. Do this weekly and even though it may seem silly, it does work.

4 Don't pick favorites. Whenever you are hugging one pet, make sure the other is not near. Or if they are, when you are done go hug them. Also,when you walk into a room and both pets are there, look at them BOTH, and go to the cat as equally as you go to the dog.This is because when you have one pet and bring a new pet into the family, often the first pet may get jealous. Don't let this happen.

5 Extra help. By now, your cat and dog should be pretty good with each other. If not, there is one more thing I suggest. Put your cat on the floor where they are happy and put the collar on your dog. Put several dog treats in your pocket and have several cat treats nearby.grab hold of the collar and walk slowly past the cat. Keep the animals around 5 or 6 feet apart. If your pets do well, give the dog a treat. If not, say "Uh-uh". Every time they do good, move them a 1/2 foot closer, until they are within a foot. give the cats most of the cat treats and the dog a couple of the leftover dog treats.
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