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10/18/12

Holiday Fireworks -- Helping Your Pet Cope

The following tip is timely with Fourth of July just around the corner.

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Humane societies and shelters typically take in more stray animals during the Fourth of July holiday because many pets are scared off by fireworks. Below are some tips to help pets cope with outdoor noises.

Holiday fireworks and other fanfare are often frightful experiences for dogs. The loud noises can hurt their sensitive ears.

Frightened dogs have different reactions: some tremble at their owners' feet, others retreat to a hiding place, some try to run off (traveling for miles), and others display bizarre behavior. According to behavior specialist Dr. Elizabeth Shull, low-frequency, percussive noises such as fireworks and summer thunderstorms trigger wild fear in about 20% of dogs. Under such circumstances, ordinarily well-behaved pets may become aggressive, destructive and/or unpredictable.

Here are some precautions you can take to help your pets:

* Exercise utmost caution when taking a dog into new environments.

* Make sure all pets always are wearing well-fitted collars and securely fastened ID tags. Microchips and tattoos are great ID techniques, too. Even a back-firing car or shot in the woods can be enough to incite a dog to run off, so avoid taking any chances.

* Don't take pets to events with fireworks.

* If fireworks are being set off nearby, or if you're having guests over for a holiday celebration, find a quiet, secure place to keep your pets. Darkening the room can help. Crating is also a good idea -- place the crate in the quietest part of the home. Make sure you put safe chew toys in the crate to occupy and distract the pet during the event. You can close the curtains and turn up the radio, CD player or TV to drown out noise.

* Do not leave pets outside, even in a fenced yard, anytime when fireworks might be set off in the distance.

* Rather than cuddle a frightened dog, try to distract the dog from the disturbing noises with physical activity such as playing ball.

* Remember that scolding or coddling a scared dog will not help. Scolding will scare and confuse the animal, and coddling serves to reinforce fearful behaviors. Instead, assume your pack leader role and act confident and unbothered by the noise and activity outside. You can give your pet a gentle massage, or use Tellington Touch techniques (see the T-Touch Dog Tip on the PAW website) or even just place your hand calmly on the pet's head.

* If the sounds and lights of fireworks frighten your dog, here's an innovative technique from the most recent issue of "Unleashed! The Pet Care Forum's Newsletter for Dog Lovers" (www.vin.com/PetCare/Dogs.htm). Make an "anxiety wrap" using an adult or children's T-shirt. Put the dog's front legs through the arm holes, then knot the hem over the dog's back. This technique is related to the massage and Tellington Touch therapy approaches. Wrapping fabric around an animal can give the pet a feeling of greater security.

* Vets can prescribe tranquilizers for frightened dogs. Also, some people find that non-prescription remedies such as Rescue Remedy or Serene-um calm their dogs.

* If you're going out of town for the holidays, entrust the care and feeding of pets to an adult friend or a boarding kennel you know very well.

* If you know someone whose pet escaped, advise that they call their veterinarian and other local veterinarians, local emergency animal clinics, the local shelters and animal control offices. The owner can post a description and picture of the lost pet or search the Pets 911 database at www.1888PETS911.org (or call toll-free 1-888-PETS911)

Dog scared of fireworks?

Fireworks & DogsIs your dog scared of fireworks? If so, he or she is not alone. The numbers of canines who suffer from fireworks fear (aka noise phobia) is estimated to be an astounding 49% of those dogs who fear loud noises.

Fireworks, thunder and gunshot noise were the most common triggers of fear and many dogs actually exhibit more than just one noise phobic issue.

Over on Facebook I started a poll on what pets think about July 4th Fireworks. (Click over if you want to chime in.) So far the answers are about in alignment with the findings of at least one study on the matter.

If your pet suffers from fear of fireworks, there are short term strategies you can apply. However, long term resolution should be your goal since the problem only escalates over time.

Desensitizing a dog to fireworks and related noise is possible but it takes time and pre-planning. This means that if you haven’t been preparing in advance for the next fireworks event, you have to take actions that will help in the short term.

It is critical to get your canine into the veterinarian for an exam and some blood work first since a large number of behavior problems (an estimated 61%) are attributed to thyroid dysfunctions.

Relieving your pet of unnecessary stress and fear might be easier if you rule out this issue–or find out if it is in fact contributing to the phobia.

Dog Fireworks Fear Symptoms

A few signs that your canine is scared of fireworks include:
  • inability to eat,
  • shaking or trembling,
  • pacing or restlessness,
  • seeking close proximity to the owner,
  • shelter seeking (to hide),
  • excessive salivation,
  • heavy panting,
  • increased yawning,
  • fear positioning (tail tucked, ears back, cringing),
  • destructive behavior (chewing or scratching),
  • self-mutilation (nervous chewing or licking),
  • loss of bladder or bowel control,
  • anal gland discharge,
  • vomiting,
  • stress related vocalizations (whining, howling, barking),
  • attempts to escape (bolting or running blindly).
Perhaps you have your own dog’s symptoms to add to this list?

The overall trend is for dog fireworks fear to get worse over time.

Again, take the time to get over to a veterinary clinic for help and specific aids as soon as you can.

If your vet isn’t a board certified behavior specialist, get a referral from him or her to someone who is qualified to help.

Okay, time for some quick tips.

Dog Fireworks Fear Safety Tips

  • Keep your animals primarily inside during firework displays and for a few days to a week prior to and just after the holiday.
  • Make sure you have a tag with current information on your pet during this time.
  • Tire your pet out with good amounts of exercise the days you expect firework displays.
  • Tryptophan helps to relax and calm animals. It is found in turkey and pet supplements. Consider adding it to the diet as a temporary aid.
  • If you take your animal outside for toileting or any other activity, make sure they are under physical restraint via a collar and leash.
  • Leave your pets safely at home instead of taking them to picnics or other holiday events.
  • Play music or turn on a radio station with soothing music to help mask outside noises.
  • Buy a plug-in Dog Appeasing Pheromone (DAP) dispenser. This permeates the air with a calming scent and reduces fear and anxiety.
  • Keep your pet busy with activities or chew items before the height of noise making occurs.
  • Visit your veterinary medical professional and ask for aids such as melatonin. This oral neurohormone often provides help for sensitive animals. Use with the veterinarians dosage recommendation and don’t try to do it yourself.
  • Flower remedies are sometimes helpful and work on an energetic level. Five Flower® or Rescue Remedy® mixes may help reduce your pets anxiety. A holistic veterinariancan guide you on alternative options.
  • Create a safe haven. If your animal is habituated to a crate you may want to provide confinement for security. Other options you may have available include the bathroom, laundry room, garage, basement, or any other “den” area. The room to choose is one where there are no windows to jump through, or where windows can be blocked off and that are too high and narrow to access.
  • Some animals want to hide and will feel safe in a favorite spot, like under the bed. You can create sleeping bag tunnel or similar option for them.
  • Plan a party and play at home instead of participating in other events. Making new traditions can be fun and helpful for your pet.
  • Consider boarding your pet at a professional kennel for the holiday.

Noise phobias in dogs

If your dog is experiencing fear during a thunderstorm and the 4th of July is no picnic well, you're not alone. It is very common for dogs to be sensitive to loud noises.
Determining the level of your dog's sensitivity or fear response will help you to develop a behavior modification plan to ease your dog's anxiety. Some dogs may just shake a little and try to stay close to you while experiencing fear, while other dogs may experience a truly phobic reaction and become destructive in their environment and try to escape. In either situation it is important to find the trigger for your dog's fear and work towards reducing the stress and anxiety your dog is suffering with.Possible Triggers and Behaviors Associated with Fear and StressReducing your pet's fear and stress with a behavior modification plan will involve determining what your dog is afraid of and how it is affecting his behavior.

Some common triggers for fearful behavior are:
??? Thunderstorms
??? Fireworks
??? Fire trucks / Motorcycles / Airplanes (unusually loud engine noise)
??? Vacuum Cleaners (loud household appliances)
??? Sudden unexpected loud noises ??? popping balloon, car backfire, etc.


Your pet may experience fear from a number of noisy situations and narrowing it down to the one that causes your pet to exhibit signs of stress and anxiety will help you move forward with a treatment plan. Some common fearful behaviors your pet may experience
as a result of a noise stimulus are:

??? Hiding under furniture or in other dark secluded areas
??? Shaking
??? Avoidance behaviors (running away / escaping)
??? Defensive aggression (growling, barking, lunging)
??? Fearful body postures ??? submissive (curling up into a ball)
??? Destructive behaviors (often a result of escape attempts)
??? Vocalization
??? Uncontrolled urination or defecation
??? Drooling and or panting
??? Pacing or unwillingness to lie down or stay in one place
??? Shedding


Very intense fear behaviors will be more complicated to modify. You may need to seek professional help from a behaviorist if your pet's fearful response is severe or if after a period of training your pet's condition has not improved.

Managing Your Environment

Having identified what is producing your dog's fear-related behaviors and determined thelevel of fear your dog is experiencing, you can begin to improve your pet's life by reducing his emotional fear. Often managing your environment by limiting exposure to the stimulus or anticipating the onset of anxiety and distracting or redirecting your pet can be helpful in resolving minor issues. For example, if your dog is nervous around fireworks you can knowingly anticipate that the 4th of July and New Years will be target
days for anxiety and fear in your pet.

Put an Action Plan in Place:

??? Plan an active day for your pet with plenty of exercise and one on one time. This will help to create a tired and relaxed atmosphere.

??? Create a safe place for your pet (they may have already chosen a location they prefer) with a soft bed and favorite toys.

??? The use of oral herbal calming remedies to take the edge off is often enough in mild cases to help your dog to relax. DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) plug in and sprays can also help to reduce stress in your dog's environment.

??? Massaging your pet or using Tellington Touch techniques will reassure and help to calm some pets.

??? During the actual event distract your dog with a favorite game he enjoys. This will take his mind off the scary noises and associate something good with the event.

??? Food distractions (treats) may also be helpful.

??? Do not be afraid to soothe your dog with kind words and petting. Fear is an emotion and not a behavior.

Helping your pet through a mild fear episode can be more successful if you plan ahead.
A phobic response may be much more intense and is often identified with destructive, escape behaviors. Your pet is trying to escape the thing that is causing the fear. A phobia is defined as a fear response that is persistent, maladaptive, and out of proportion to the situation. Resolving phobic fear issues often require the assistance of a behaviorist
and or your veterinarian.

Reducing Anxiety and Building Confidence

The goal with the behavior modification plan will be to change the way your pet feels about the things he is most afraid of. Your goal is to have your dog experience a pleasant outcome (food treat, verbal praise, playing with a favorite toy or anything he may see as a reward) whenever he encounters the frightening stimulus. It will be very important to proceed with these exercises at a gradual pace and allow plenty of time for your dog or puppy to become adjusted to this new experience before proceeding. Never force your pet into an interaction with a frightening stimulus and always start from his level of tolerance. If you see a stress or fearful response from your pet then you have gone too far ahead in the training and will need to go back and repeat certain exercises until your pet is more comfortable. For purposes of instruction, we will outline an exercise for your dog to help reduce the anxiety associated with thunderstorms.

The type of training you will be using is counter-conditioning and desensitizing and the
same process will work with a variety of fear-inducing stimulus.

??? Purchase or make your own recording of a thunderstorm.

??? In your first training session play the recording at a very low volume so that a fear response is not elicited in your pet. Play your dog's favorite game and feed him special treats. Give positive attention to create a good association with the background noise (the thunderstorm recording).

??? In your next session gradually increase the volume of the recording while providing the positive reinforcement.

??? If you notice any fearful response you have gone beyond your dog's threshold of tolerance. Stop and take a break, reduce the volume and continue at a slower pace.

??? Gradually increase the volume over a period of weeks or months.

??? This type of training will require short, frequent training sessions. Your dog's fear will not subside over night. Changing an emotional response to something scary will take time and patience.It may be difficult to completely recreate all the components of a thunderstorm. Lightning, wind, changes in barometric pressure and darkness; some or all of these things may already be precursors to your dog's fear episodes by creating anticipatory anxiety. Trying to duplicate the triggers at significantly lower exposure levels will
allow your dog to associate good things (playing with you and getting treats) with the onset of the scary thing (thunderstorm).

Avoiding the Pitfalls

You should never punish your dog or puppy for having a fearful response. Using punishment will only cause your pet to be more frightened and complicate the training process. Punishment will not help your pet to overcome his fears and accept a frightening situation as non-threatening. Using a desensitizing process will gradually help your pet be less frightened and more confident in his environment.

Tips and Hints

??? Never force your pet to interact with something he is afraid of. Trying to show him there is "nothing to be afraid of" will only cause him to experience the situation under extreme stress and possibly make the problem and the fear worse.

??? Providing a safe place for your pet such as a spare bedroom where his feeding area and sleeping area can be isolated from the rest of the house is important and allows him to have a comfortable refuge.

??? Avoid any new stimulus if your dog is already fearful and keep his routine as normal as possible.

??? Always make sure the behavior problem your pet is experiencing is not related to a medical condition and review your pet's problem thoroughly with your vet.

??? Helping your pet work through his fear-related issues will take time. There is no "quick fix." Patience will be an important factor in the success of your pet's adjustment and acclimation.

Dogs Fear of Thunder and Lightning

his 3-part tipsheet includes a good article from the Humane Society of the United States website.

Part 1

While a good "kraack" or "boom" may have been good while Batman was taking down the Joker, such startling sounds are no joke for your dog. Firecrackers, thunder and other loud, out-of-nowhere sounds often leave dogs frightened and wanting to flee to a safer place. These types of fears may develop even though your dog has had no traumatic experiences associated with the sound. The good news is that many fear-related problems can be successfully resolved. If left untreated, however, your dog's fearful behavior will probably get worse.


The most common behavior problems associated with fear of loud noises are destruction and escaping. When your dog becomes frightened, she tries to reduce her fear. She may try to escape to a place where the sounds of thunder or firecrackers are less intense. If she feels less afraid by leaving the yard or going into a certain room or area of the house, then the escape or destructive behavior is reinforced because it successfully lessens her fear. For some dogs, just the activity or physical exertion associated with one of these behaviors may be an outlet for their anxiety. Unfortunately, escape and/or destructive behavior can be a problem for you and could also result in physical injury to your dog.

Your dog may also begin to associate a particular startling noise with other things in her environment, and she may grow afraid of these other things because she associates them with the loud noise that frightens her. For example, dogs who are afraid of thunder may later become afraid of the wind, dark clouds, and flashes of light that often precede the sound of thunder. Dogs who do not like the sound of firecrackers may become fearful of the children who have the firecrackers or may become afraid to go in the backyard, if that's where they usually hear the noise.

What You Can Do to Help

Create a Safe Place: Try to create a safe place for your dog to go to when she hears the noises that frighten her. But remember, this must be a safe location from her perspective, not yours. Notice where she goes, or tries to go, when she's frightened, and if at all possible, give her access to that place. If she's trying to get under your bed, give her access to your bedroom.

You can also create a "hidey hole" that is dark, small, and shielded from the frightening sound as much as possible. Encourage her to go there when you're home and the thunder or other noise occurs. Consider using a fan or radio near the spot to help block out the sound. Feed her in that location and help your dog associate that spot with other "good things" happening to her there. She must be able to come and go from this location freely. Confining her in the "hidey hole" when she doesn't want to be there will only cause more problems. The "safe place" approach may work with some dogs, but not all. Some dogs are motivated to move and be active when frightened and "hiding out" won't help them feel less fearful.

Distract Your Dog: This method works best when your dog is just beginning to get anxious. Encourage her to engage in any activity that captures her attention and distracts her from behaving fearfully. Start when she first alerts you to the noise and is not yet showing a lot of fearful behavior, but is only watchful. Immediately try to interest her in doing something that she really enjoys. Get out the tennis ball and play fetch (in an escape-proof area), or practice some commands that she knows. Reward her with praise and treats for paying attention to the game or the commands.

As the storm or other noise builds, you may not be able to keep her attention on the activity, but it might delay the start of the fearful behavior for longer and longer each time you do it. If you can't keep her attention and she begins acting fearfully, stop the process. If you continue, you may inadvertently reinforce her fearful behavior.

Behavior Modification: Behavior modification techniques are often successful in reducing fears and phobias. The appropriate techniques are called "counter-conditioning" and "desensitization." These techniques condition or teach your dog to respond in non-fearful ways to sounds and other stimuli that have previously frightened her.

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Part 2

Fear of Thunder

Many dogs are disturbed by thunderstorms; some have full-blown thunderstorm phobia. "Affected dogs relentlessly seek the attention of their owner or some safe place and puff and pant as they pace to and fro, sometimes losing control of their bladder or bowels in their anxiety.... In extreme cases, dogs have been known to tear through screens and hurl themselves out of windows," writes Dr. Nicholas Dodman in "The Dog Who Loved Too Much." Dogs who display no fear of storms as puppies may develop this fear later in life, and often, thunder-phobics exhibit other anxieties as well.

Dr. Dodman writes that phobia treatment usually involves careful reintroduction to the fear-inducing stimulus, also know as desensitization. (For example, using tape recordings of storm sounds.) However, many times dogs have a relapse.

The respected Tufts University vet proposes another theory: that frightened dogs are being affected by a build-up of static charge, explaining why some dogs retreat to bathrooms -- to discharge the build-up. TheyUre seeking out conductive surfaces such as sinks, pressing on the pipes in the bathroom. A sink is typically supplied by metal pipes and therefore acts as an electrical grounding device. Says Dr. Dodman: If the cause of thunderstorm phobia is that dogs are receiving small static shocks during storms, it would explain why programs focused on desensitizing dogs to the sound of thunder meet with little success. He suggests that measures to prevent status electrical charge build-up may have preventive value and might benefit as part of a desensitization program. Anti-anxiety medication such as buspirone can help.

An effective technique that PAW's Nancy Klein uses for her doggie Auggie, suggested by a certified specialist in the Bach Flower Essences:

Add Rescue Remedy to the dogs' water on days when the weather report calls for thunderstorms, and to use Rock Rose specifically (for terror) when the storms are occurring. The drops can be placed on the tongue, or mixed with purified water and misted in the dog's face.

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Part 3

The following tips were condensed from an article by golden retriever owner Gwen Thee:

Crate Training
Crate-trained dogs may cope better during the storm if confined to their own safe place. An airline crate, or a wire crate that is covered, may work better than an open wire crate.

Calm Reassurance
Some dogs need to be reassured that there is nothing to fear. If the storm makes you nervous, your dog may be picking that up. However, be careful not to inadvertently rewarding the dog for a fear reaction. If you positively reinforce fear reactions with soothing sounds or stroking when the dog exhibits fear, the reactions will continue.

By ignoring the storm and carrying on with a normal routine, you convey that the storm is no big deal. Another way to reassure the dog without reinforcing the fear reaction is to massage or brush your dog in long even strokes.

Positive Reinforcement
If your dog has a favorite indoor game, or a special treat, try to absorb him in that during the storm. Practice this during storms, and hopefully the dog will eventually associate the storm with good things.

Noise Desensitization
Exposing your dog to different loud noises, and always making sure something good happens, can help to reduce the dogUs sensitivity to loud noises. You can play tapes of storms, starting at a low volume and working up to very high volume, and stroke, play with, and teach the dog to ignore the sound. (K-9 Consultants produced a tape with sound effects and instructions available at some pet supply outlets or by calling 800-952-6517.)

Severe Reactions
These may require behavior modification (see a canine behavior specialist) and/or drug therapy involving such drugs as Tranxene and buspirone, or beta-blockers such as Propanolol and Inderol (administered only by a veterinarian).

Homeopathic Remedies

Phosphorus HPUS 30C: Drop 3-5 pellets down back of dog's throat (without touching them yourself) every 15 minutes until you see improvement in the dog's behavior, then stop. Dosage may be repeated if necessary.

Aconitum Napellus 30C: Given in the same way Phosphorus is used.

For milder thunderstorm fears, the Bach Flower (Rescue Remedy or Natu

10 steps to calm dogs afraid of thunder, lightning storms

It's the same thing every year. The summer storms ... they stress our dogs unduly. We vets call it "storm phobia." You call it your worst nightmare. (The howling, the hiding, the destruction!)

Either way, we all want the same thing: a calmer dog that doesn't have to suffer the psychological damage done by booming thunder, wicked lightning and plummeting barometric pressures.

And it's not just their psyche (and ours!) at risk. We all know that dogs are capable of doing serious damage to themselves during stormy times of the year. Fractured claws, lacerations, broken teeth and bruises are but a few consequences.


So how do you handle thunderstorm phobia? Here are my suggestions:

•Handle it early on in your dog's life.

Does your dog merely quake and quiver under the bed when it storms outside? Just because he doesn't absolutely freak doesn't mean he's not suffering. Since storm phobia is considered a progressive behavioral disease, signs like this should not be ignored. Each successive thunderstorm season is likely to bring out ever-worsening signs of fear. It's time to take action — NOW.

•Don't heed advice to let her "sweat it out" or not to "baby" her.

I've heard many pet owners explain that they don't offer any consolation to their pets because they don't want to reinforce the "negative behavior" brought on by a thunderstorm. But a severe thunderstorm is no time to tell your dog to "buck up and get strong." Fears like this are irrational (after all, she's safe indoors). Your dog won't get it when you punish her for freaking out. Indeed, it'll likely make her anxiety worse. Providing a positive or distracting stimulus is more likely to calm her down.

•Offer treats, cuddlings and other good stuff when storms happen.

This method is best employed before the phobia sets in –– as pups. Associating loud booms with treats is never a bad thing, right?

•Let him hide — in a crate.

Hiding (as in a cave) is a natural psychological defense for dogs. Getting them used to a crate as pups has a tremendous influence on how comfortable they are when things scare them. Having a go-to place for relaxing or hiding away is an excellent approach, no matter what the fear. Another approach to try, whether he's a pup or not:

•Get him away from the noise, and compete with it.

Creating a comfy place (for the crate or elsewhere) in a room that's enclosed (like a closet or bathroom) may help a great deal. Adding in a loud radio or white noise machine can help, too. Or how about soothing, dog-calming music?

•Counter the effects of electromagnetism.

Though it may sound like voodoo, your dog can also become sensitized to the electromagnetic radiation caused by lightning strikes. One great way to shield your dog from these potentially fear-provoking waves is to cover her crate with a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Another method involves clothing her in a commercially available "Storm Defender" cape that does the same work. If she hides under the bed, consider slipping a layer of aluminum foil between the box-spring and mattress.

•Desensitize him.

Sometimes it's possible to allay the fears by using thunderstorm sound CDs when it's not raging outside. Play it at a low volume while plying him with positive stimuli (like treats and pettings). Increase the volume all the while, getting to those uncomfortable booming sounds over a period of weeks. It works well for some.

•Ask your veterinarian about drugs.

Sure, there's nothing so unsavory as the need for drugs to relieve dogs of their fears, but recognize that some fears will not be amenable to any of these other ministrations without drugs. If that's the case, talk to your vet about it –– please. There are plenty of new approaches to drugs that don't result in a zonked-out dog, so please ask!

•Natural therapies can work.

For severe sufferers, there's no doubt it'll be hard to ask a simple flower essence to do all the heavy lifting, but for milder cases, Bach flower extracts (as in Rescue Remedy), lavender oil (in a diffuser is best) and/or "Dog Appeasing Pheromone" (marketed as D.A.P. in a diffuser, spray or collar) can help.

•Consider seeing a board-certified veterinary behaviorist.

If nothing else works, your dog should not have to suffer. Seek out the advice of your veterinarian, and, if you've gone as far as you can with him/her, consider someone with unique training in these areas –– perhaps a board-certified veterinary behaviorist.

10/15/12

Internal anatomy of a dog




Internal anatomy of a dog: carnivorous domestic mammal raised to perform various tasks for humans.
Encephalon: seat of the intelluctual capacities of a gog.
Spinal column: important part of the nervous system.
Stomach: part of the digestive tract between the esophagus and the intestine.
Spleen: hematopoiesis organ that produces lymphocytes.
Kidney: blood-purifying organ.
Rectum: last part of the intestine.
Bladder: pocket in which urine collects before being eliminated.
Penis: copulative male sexual organ.
Testicle: sperm-producing male sexual organ.
Intestine: last part of the digestive tract.
Liver: bile-producing digestive gland.
Heart: blood-pumping organ.
Lung: respiratory organ.
Trachea: tube that carries air to the lungs.
Esophagus: last part of the digestive tract.
Larynx: part of a dog's throat that contains the vocal cords.

Age of Sexual Maturity in Dogs

Q. At what age do dogs become sexually mature?
A. Male puppies will display mounting behavior at a very young age (3-4 weeks), but are not producing sperm. This puppy mounting behavior will often disappear in a short time and then reappear as the dog approaches puberty. Half of male dogs will display mounting behavior by 5½ months of age, and will become able to sire a litter around that age. Note that some male dogs may be able to sire a litter before 5 months of age - 5 months is the average.

Female dogs become sexually mature (have their first heat) between 5 and 12 months of age. Small breed dogs tend to have their first heat around 5-6 months, while some giant breed dogs will not start to cycle until they are 18-24 months of age.

Although most dogs are sexually mature by one year of age, dogs should not be used for breeding until they are at least 2 years of age.


Sexual Behavior in Dogs


The urge to reproduce is powerful in all higheranimals, including dogs. This is because it isessential for the survival of the species and, in amanner of speaking, is driven by the "selfishgenes" bent only on their own survival. Sexualdrives and desires are absent in the early part ofa dog's life, blaze during puberty and earlyadulthood, and weaken as age advances, takingits toll.

Although a young puppy does not have the urge to procreate, males doengage in sexual play in the form of mounting, as early as 5 weeks. Atthis stage, they probably have no idea what they are rehearsing,

though successful mounting presumably establishes something aboutthe relationship between two pups. Human observers ascribe the behavior to the establishment of dominance, whichis true, but then again sex and politics are often intertwined. When puberty arrives, under the influence of a sea ofhormones, dogs and bitches begin to get the true message about the joy of sex and, when opportunities arise, aredriven to act on this compulsion. Dogs and bitches have different approaches to sexual behavior and are on differenttime lines. Males are always interested in an opportunity to mate while the drive to mate is seasonal in bitches.

The Bitch
Bitches have their first estrus ("heat") at the age of 6 to 12 months. Smaller dogs tend to come into heat at theearlier end of this spectrum while larger dogs take longer to mature. The onset of the first heat is heralded by thematuration of a wave of follicles within the bitch's ovary and a sudden rise in blood estrogen level. Initially, what

transpires externally is referred to as proestrus, which is a stage of readiness for, and interest in, mating. Along with an interest in male dogs and flirtation with them (proceptive behavior), there is progressive vulval swelling and some bleeding. If males try to mount a bitch in proestrus, she will often turn and growl or snap to rebuff their efforts. Ten days of proestrus lead to the climax, the internal release of ova, and the beginning of true or "standing" heat in which the bitch will allow herself to be mounted by an interested male. Sometimes bitches are well attended by competent suitors and other times their choice is limited. To attract the attention of a disinterested or otherwise distracted suitor, they will often back into him, deflecting their tail in a provocative way so that he can hardly ignore what is before him. When the dog mounts, the bitch stands firm, even moving her hips to accommodate him to ensure the success of his thrusting. Following introception, the bitch tightens her vaginal muscles around the male's penis and settles in for the duration of copulation, about 20 to 30 minutes.

Post-pubertal bitches come into heat cyclically and are thus receptive and fertile between one and four times per year. The average number of heats annually is two.

The Male
Testosterone levels climb in young male dogs, hitting a first peak at about 5 months of age. By this time, their mounting and thrusting behavior may be becoming a nuisance to their owners. At 7 months, dogs may seek to mate, attracted by pheromones put off by bitches.One such attractant is methyl p-hydoxybenzoate (methyl PHBA), a chemical found in high concentrations in the urine and vaginal secretions of bitches in estrus.

Mating usually occurs for the first time when the dog is around one year of age. During mating, the male first mounts and then intromits, sometimes with a little guiding help from his partner. An erectile section at the base of his penis, the bulbus glandis, expands and is grasped firmly by the bitch's contracted vaginal muscles. The pair is now literally inseparable. At this point in the proceedings, the male may then dismount and turn to face the opposite direction while the couple is still tied. The bulbus glandis must shrink in size before the two dogs can separate.

Variations on the Theme
  • Male dogs raised in isolation show abnormal mounting orientation for longer than other uninitiated dogs. This evidence demonstrates that dogs need social and pre-sexual experience in order to know which way is up when it comes to mating. 
  • Fear and subordinate status inhibit libido in male dogs.
  • Masturbation occurs in "intact" and castrated domestic dogs. Apparently, brain centers that mediate sexual behavior are not completely inactivated by castration but are merely muted.
  • Inappropriate mounting of peoples' legs and cushions, sometimes leading to ejaculation, is also expressed by some dogs and can occur despite neutering.
  • Mounting can sometimes be used to signal dominance over other dogs or people. 
  • Some neutered dogs still show interest in the opposite sex and will mount, intromit and tie as if they are still intact.

What Neutering (Castration) Does to a Male
  • Reduces sexual interest
  • Reduces incidence of roaming in 90 percent of males
  • Reduces competitive aggression between males in 60 percent of males
  • Reduces urine marking in 50 percent of males
  • Reduces mounting in 67 percent of males (especially mounting of people)
Testosterone levels fall to very low levels immediately after neuter surgery, but behavioral changes, if they are going to occur, may take weeks or months.

Neutering a Bitch
Following ovarohysterectomy ("spaying"), a bitch will not come into heat and will show no interest in male dogs. Neither will she be attractive to them.

A Neutered Dog is a Healthier, Happier Dog
Unneutered dogs display a great interest in sexual behaviors. For males, this interest is more or less continuous whereas for females it occurs during heat periods only. Sex hormones have an effect on sexual interest and behavior in both sexes though the effect is more powerful in inspiring sexual behavior in bitches. Neutering is recommended to prevent unwanted, sexually-driven behavior in all males that are not to be used as studs. Wanderlust, mounting, urine marking, and inter-male aggression are all unnecessary male behavioral baggage that need not be tolerated, except in a select few dogs to be used for breeding. Also, neutering is recommended for health reasons and to prevent unwanted puppies. Neutering females will prevent a bitch's 6-monthly heats, and the appearance of motley bands of wide-eyed, free-roaming would-be suitors. In addition, early neutering of bitches before the first heat virtually eliminates the risk of breast cancer for bitches. This healthful advantage is attenuated after the first heat and lost following the second heat.

Spotting the signs of pregnancy of dogs

is always best to avoid pregnancy by having your bitch neutered, but accidents happen and you may have chosen for your bitch to have a litter. So how do you know your bitch is pregnant? There are a number of signs you can look out for, and tests your vet can perform, but most are not apparent until your bitch is well into her pregnancy (which on average lasts between 61 and 65 days).

Signs of pregnancy
  • A slight mucoid vulval discharge may occur around one month after mating.
  • The teats will become more prominent, pinker and erect, due to an increase in the blood supply around the base of the nipples. This should appear between 25 and 30 days after mating.
  • Body weight will increase from around day 35 onwards and may increase to 50% over normal.
  • The abdomen will enlarge and this should be noticeable from around day 40, although first-time mums and bitches carrying few puppies may not show as much of a change.
  • Mammary gland enlargement is noticeable around day 40 and some bitches may express a serous fluid from the teats from this time.
  • Behaviour may also change, such as displaying slight depression as well as a drop in appetite, but as these signs can also indicate a problem, consult your vet if they occur.
  • Many dogs’ appetite will increase in the second half of pregnancy.
  • Closer to the delivery date, your bitch will probably start to express her nesting instincts, scratching at the floor or in her bed, and displaying signs of increasing restlessness.

On average, you should be able to tell whether or not your bitch is pregnant at around one month after mating.

Veterinary procedures
If you do suspect that your dog is pregnant, you'll need to see your vet for confirmation.
  • The most commonly used method is ultrasound. This can be used after 20 days (no earlier), and foetal heartbeats can be identified at 22 days, but predicting the number of puppies can be challenging. Ultrasound examinations are comfortable because they are not invasive and very reliable in experienced hands.
  • Feeling the abdomen from about 30 days can be accurate if performed by an experienced vet, but this may be difficult if the dog is nervous or slightly overweight. If pregnant, the vet will feel a thickening of the uterus and ‘bumps’ within. The method isn't infallible, however, especially if there is just one pup in the womb or if the pregnancy is not as advanced as first thought.
  • From approximately 21-25 days endocrine tests detect relaxin, a hormone exclusively produced by pregnant dogs.
  • An x-ray will pick up the skeletons of the puppies from around 45 days. It should also be accurate in determining how many there are. However, most vets prefer not to use this method, as there is a possibility that early exposure of the foetus to x-rays can cause problems. This risk is minimal after 45 days, although sedating the bitch to obtain the image may be more of a problem.

Remember to contact your vet as soon as possible if you think your bitch is pregnant. Certain treatments can be given to prevent a pregnancy if you see your dog mating. Neutering, of course, will save you this worry in the future. However, if you are not sure your bitch is pregnant your vet will discuss which test is best for your pet, as some of these procedures may not be suitable at certain stages of pregnancy. Your vet can also advise you on the best care for your bitch during pregnancy, labour and lactation.

Pregnant Dog's Timeline

Now that we've had a successful breeding, the changes in a female and pups are amazing;

PREGNANCY TIMELINE

WEEK ONE :

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Fertilization occurs
+ 2 cell embryos are in the oviduct
+ The embryo is fairly resistant to external interference in development

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Possible morning sickness
+ Possible personality changes

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Normal feeding
+ Check any and all medications with vet prior to administering
+ No insecticides (i.e., flea treatments)
+ No live vaccines

TO DO LIST+ Put together pedigree on litter
+ Write contract
+ Contact AKC for litter registration application
+ Start taking puppy reservations

WEEK TWO (DAYS 8-14)


DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Embryo will be 4 cell at start of week and 64 cell by end of week
+ Embryo enters the uterus

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Possible morning sickness

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Continue as with Week One

TO DO LIST+ Nothing special this week

WEEK THREE (DAYS 15-21)


DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES
+ Day 19 -- Implantation of embryos in uterus

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ See above

CARE OF THE BITCH+ See above

TO DO LIST+ Nothing special this week

WEEK FOUR (DAYS 22-28)


DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Development of eyes and spinal cords
+ Faces take shape
+ Fetuses grow from 5-10 mm to 14-15 mm
+ Organogenesis begins-- Embryos are at their most susceptible to defects
+ Days 26 - 32 are the best days to palpitate (i.e.. feel for the puppies)

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Possible clear vaginal discharge
+ Mammary development begins

CARE OF THE BITCH+ After Day 26, palpitation may be possible to diagnose pregnancy
+ Limit strenuous activity (such as working, jumping, long runs)
+ Add 1/4 cup cottage cheese or a hard boiled egg to food on alternating days

TO DO LIST+ Schedule ultrasound or palpitation with vet if desired

WEEK FIVE (DAYS 29-35)


DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Development of toes, whisker buds, and claws
+ Fetuses look like dogs
+ Gender can be determined
+ Eyes (previously open) now close
+ Fetuses grow from 18 mm - 30 mm
+ Organogenesis ends -- embryos are fairly resistant to interference with development

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Swelling becomes noticeable
+ Loss of "tuck-up"
+ Weight will start to increase

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Slightly increase amount of food and switch to puppy kibble. If you feed one meal a day, add an extra meal. If you feed twice a day, slightly increase one of the meals.
+ Add daily multi-vitamin
+ Palpitation no longer possible due to fluids in uterus

TO DO LIST+ Nothing special this week

WEEK SIX (DAYS 36-42)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Development of skin pigment
+ Fetuses should weigh around 6 grams and be 45 mm long
+ Fetal heartbeats can be heard with stethoscope

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Nipples darken and enlarge
+ Abdomen continues to enlarge

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Add cottage cheese or hard boiled egg to food daily
+ Increase the amount of food in the extra meal
+ Bitch should start sleeping in whelping box
TO DO LIST
+ Assemble whelping box
+ By this time you should be fairly sure that the bitch is pregnant. Notify the people on your puppy list. Let them know when you expect delivery.

WEEK SEVEN (DAYS 43-49)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Growth and development continues

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Abdomen hair will start shedding
+ The bitch will start to look pregnant at this point

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Slightly increase both meals

TO DO LIST+ Stop any roughhousing or jumping
+ Radiographs (X-rays) possible to determine number and size of puppies

WEEK EIGHT (DAYS 50-57)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Fetal movement can be detected when bitch is at rest
+ Puppies can safely be born from now on

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Milk may be squeezed from nipples
+ The bitch will be very large.

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Add moderate lunch

TO DO LIST+ Gather whelping kit (see below)
+ Prepare phone list for help/support. It should include your vet's phone number, the emergency clinic's phone number, the number of any friends who will be offering support during whelping, and anyone else you might need to contact before, during, or after whelping (like your office to let them know you won't be in!)
+ Make sure your car is gassed up and ready for a possible emergency trip to the vet's office.

WEEK NINE (DAYS 58-65)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Growth and Development continues

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Nesting behavior may be seen
+ Bitch may become distressed (panting, pacing, acting uncomfortable)
+ Temperature should be around 100.2-100.8 degrees Farenheit
+ When temperature drops to around 98-99.4 degrees Farenheit, puppies should be born within 24 hours
+ Appetite may disappear as whelping approaches

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Start taking temperature three times a day

TO DO LIST+ Notify vet or emergency clinic when temperature drops so that they will be ready if you have any problems
+ Keep detailed records on temperature and behavior of bitch
+ Double check that whelping supplies are ready

Post Partum

* Make sure each puppy gets some of the bitch's colostrum (first milk) within first 24 hours.
* Lochia (vaginal discharge) should be reddish to reddish-brown (green is okay on first day). If you see black discharge, contact your vet immediately!
* Within 5-6 hours of last puppy's birth, take bitch and puppies to vet for check up. The vet will ensure that the bitch hasn't retained any puppies or placentas and that the puppies are in good health. You especially want to check for cleft palates as these puppies probably won't survive and should be euthanized now.
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