10 steps to calm dogs afraid of thunder, lightning storms

It's the same thing every year. The summer storms ... they stress our dogs unduly. We vets call it "storm phobia." You call it your worst nightmare. (The howling, the hiding, the destruction!)

Either way, we all want the same thing: a calmer dog that doesn't have to suffer the psychological damage done by booming thunder, wicked lightning and plummeting barometric pressures.

And it's not just their psyche (and ours!) at risk. We all know that dogs are capable of doing serious damage to themselves during stormy times of the year. Fractured claws, lacerations, broken teeth and bruises are but a few consequences.

So how do you handle thunderstorm phobia? Here are my suggestions:

•Handle it early on in your dog's life.

Does your dog merely quake and quiver under the bed when it storms outside? Just because he doesn't absolutely freak doesn't mean he's not suffering. Since storm phobia is considered a progressive behavioral disease, signs like this should not be ignored. Each successive thunderstorm season is likely to bring out ever-worsening signs of fear. It's time to take action — NOW.

•Don't heed advice to let her "sweat it out" or not to "baby" her.

I've heard many pet owners explain that they don't offer any consolation to their pets because they don't want to reinforce the "negative behavior" brought on by a thunderstorm. But a severe thunderstorm is no time to tell your dog to "buck up and get strong." Fears like this are irrational (after all, she's safe indoors). Your dog won't get it when you punish her for freaking out. Indeed, it'll likely make her anxiety worse. Providing a positive or distracting stimulus is more likely to calm her down.

•Offer treats, cuddlings and other good stuff when storms happen.

This method is best employed before the phobia sets in –– as pups. Associating loud booms with treats is never a bad thing, right?

•Let him hide — in a crate.

Hiding (as in a cave) is a natural psychological defense for dogs. Getting them used to a crate as pups has a tremendous influence on how comfortable they are when things scare them. Having a go-to place for relaxing or hiding away is an excellent approach, no matter what the fear. Another approach to try, whether he's a pup or not:

•Get him away from the noise, and compete with it.

Creating a comfy place (for the crate or elsewhere) in a room that's enclosed (like a closet or bathroom) may help a great deal. Adding in a loud radio or white noise machine can help, too. Or how about soothing, dog-calming music?

•Counter the effects of electromagnetism.

Though it may sound like voodoo, your dog can also become sensitized to the electromagnetic radiation caused by lightning strikes. One great way to shield your dog from these potentially fear-provoking waves is to cover her crate with a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Another method involves clothing her in a commercially available "Storm Defender" cape that does the same work. If she hides under the bed, consider slipping a layer of aluminum foil between the box-spring and mattress.

•Desensitize him.

Sometimes it's possible to allay the fears by using thunderstorm sound CDs when it's not raging outside. Play it at a low volume while plying him with positive stimuli (like treats and pettings). Increase the volume all the while, getting to those uncomfortable booming sounds over a period of weeks. It works well for some.

•Ask your veterinarian about drugs.

Sure, there's nothing so unsavory as the need for drugs to relieve dogs of their fears, but recognize that some fears will not be amenable to any of these other ministrations without drugs. If that's the case, talk to your vet about it –– please. There are plenty of new approaches to drugs that don't result in a zonked-out dog, so please ask!

•Natural therapies can work.

For severe sufferers, there's no doubt it'll be hard to ask a simple flower essence to do all the heavy lifting, but for milder cases, Bach flower extracts (as in Rescue Remedy), lavender oil (in a diffuser is best) and/or "Dog Appeasing Pheromone" (marketed as D.A.P. in a diffuser, spray or collar) can help.

•Consider seeing a board-certified veterinary behaviorist.

If nothing else works, your dog should not have to suffer. Seek out the advice of your veterinarian, and, if you've gone as far as you can with him/her, consider someone with unique training in these areas –– perhaps a board-certified veterinary behaviorist.

Internal anatomy of a dog

Internal anatomy of a dog: carnivorous domestic mammal raised to perform various tasks for humans.
Encephalon: seat of the intelluctual capacities of a gog.
Spinal column: important part of the nervous system.
Stomach: part of the digestive tract between the esophagus and the intestine.
Spleen: hematopoiesis organ that produces lymphocytes.
Kidney: blood-purifying organ.
Rectum: last part of the intestine.
Bladder: pocket in which urine collects before being eliminated.
Penis: copulative male sexual organ.
Testicle: sperm-producing male sexual organ.
Intestine: last part of the digestive tract.
Liver: bile-producing digestive gland.
Heart: blood-pumping organ.
Lung: respiratory organ.
Trachea: tube that carries air to the lungs.
Esophagus: last part of the digestive tract.
Larynx: part of a dog's throat that contains the vocal cords.

Age of Sexual Maturity in Dogs

Q. At what age do dogs become sexually mature?
A. Male puppies will display mounting behavior at a very young age (3-4 weeks), but are not producing sperm. This puppy mounting behavior will often disappear in a short time and then reappear as the dog approaches puberty. Half of male dogs will display mounting behavior by 5½ months of age, and will become able to sire a litter around that age. Note that some male dogs may be able to sire a litter before 5 months of age - 5 months is the average.

Female dogs become sexually mature (have their first heat) between 5 and 12 months of age. Small breed dogs tend to have their first heat around 5-6 months, while some giant breed dogs will not start to cycle until they are 18-24 months of age.

Although most dogs are sexually mature by one year of age, dogs should not be used for breeding until they are at least 2 years of age.

Sexual Behavior in Dogs

The urge to reproduce is powerful in all higheranimals, including dogs. This is because it isessential for the survival of the species and, in amanner of speaking, is driven by the "selfishgenes" bent only on their own survival. Sexualdrives and desires are absent in the early part ofa dog's life, blaze during puberty and earlyadulthood, and weaken as age advances, takingits toll.

Although a young puppy does not have the urge to procreate, males doengage in sexual play in the form of mounting, as early as 5 weeks. Atthis stage, they probably have no idea what they are rehearsing,

though successful mounting presumably establishes something aboutthe relationship between two pups. Human observers ascribe the behavior to the establishment of dominance, whichis true, but then again sex and politics are often intertwined. When puberty arrives, under the influence of a sea ofhormones, dogs and bitches begin to get the true message about the joy of sex and, when opportunities arise, aredriven to act on this compulsion. Dogs and bitches have different approaches to sexual behavior and are on differenttime lines. Males are always interested in an opportunity to mate while the drive to mate is seasonal in bitches.

The Bitch
Bitches have their first estrus ("heat") at the age of 6 to 12 months. Smaller dogs tend to come into heat at theearlier end of this spectrum while larger dogs take longer to mature. The onset of the first heat is heralded by thematuration of a wave of follicles within the bitch's ovary and a sudden rise in blood estrogen level. Initially, what

transpires externally is referred to as proestrus, which is a stage of readiness for, and interest in, mating. Along with an interest in male dogs and flirtation with them (proceptive behavior), there is progressive vulval swelling and some bleeding. If males try to mount a bitch in proestrus, she will often turn and growl or snap to rebuff their efforts. Ten days of proestrus lead to the climax, the internal release of ova, and the beginning of true or "standing" heat in which the bitch will allow herself to be mounted by an interested male. Sometimes bitches are well attended by competent suitors and other times their choice is limited. To attract the attention of a disinterested or otherwise distracted suitor, they will often back into him, deflecting their tail in a provocative way so that he can hardly ignore what is before him. When the dog mounts, the bitch stands firm, even moving her hips to accommodate him to ensure the success of his thrusting. Following introception, the bitch tightens her vaginal muscles around the male's penis and settles in for the duration of copulation, about 20 to 30 minutes.

Post-pubertal bitches come into heat cyclically and are thus receptive and fertile between one and four times per year. The average number of heats annually is two.

The Male
Testosterone levels climb in young male dogs, hitting a first peak at about 5 months of age. By this time, their mounting and thrusting behavior may be becoming a nuisance to their owners. At 7 months, dogs may seek to mate, attracted by pheromones put off by bitches.One such attractant is methyl p-hydoxybenzoate (methyl PHBA), a chemical found in high concentrations in the urine and vaginal secretions of bitches in estrus.

Mating usually occurs for the first time when the dog is around one year of age. During mating, the male first mounts and then intromits, sometimes with a little guiding help from his partner. An erectile section at the base of his penis, the bulbus glandis, expands and is grasped firmly by the bitch's contracted vaginal muscles. The pair is now literally inseparable. At this point in the proceedings, the male may then dismount and turn to face the opposite direction while the couple is still tied. The bulbus glandis must shrink in size before the two dogs can separate.

Variations on the Theme

• Male dogs raised in isolation show abnormal mounting orientation for longer than other uninitiated dogs. This evidence demonstrates that dogs need social and pre-sexual experience in order to know which way is up when it comes to mating. 
• Fear and subordinate status inhibit libido in male dogs.
• Masturbation occurs in "intact" and castrated domestic dogs. Apparently, brain centers that mediate sexual behavior are not completely inactivated by castration but are merely muted.
• Inappropriate mounting of peoples' legs and cushions, sometimes leading to ejaculation, is also expressed by some dogs and can occur despite neutering.
• Mounting can sometimes be used to signal dominance over other dogs or people. 
• Some neutered dogs still show interest in the opposite sex and will mount, intromit and tie as if they are still intact.

What Neutering (Castration) Does to a Male

• Reduces sexual interest
• Reduces incidence of roaming in 90 percent of males
• Reduces competitive aggression between males in 60 percent of males
• Reduces urine marking in 50 percent of males
• Reduces mounting in 67 percent of males (especially mounting of people)

Testosterone levels fall to very low levels immediately after neuter surgery, but behavioral changes, if they are going to occur, may take weeks or months.

Neutering a Bitch
Following ovarohysterectomy ("spaying"), a bitch will not come into heat and will show no interest in male dogs. Neither will she be attractive to them.

A Neutered Dog is a Healthier, Happier Dog
Unneutered dogs display a great interest in sexual behaviors. For males, this interest is more or less continuous whereas for females it occurs during heat periods only. Sex hormones have an effect on sexual interest and behavior in both sexes though the effect is more powerful in inspiring sexual behavior in bitches. Neutering is recommended to prevent unwanted, sexually-driven behavior in all males that are not to be used as studs. Wanderlust, mounting, urine marking, and inter-male aggression are all unnecessary male behavioral baggage that need not be tolerated, except in a select few dogs to be used for breeding. Also, neutering is recommended for health reasons and to prevent unwanted puppies. Neutering females will prevent a bitch's 6-monthly heats, and the appearance of motley bands of wide-eyed, free-roaming would-be suitors. In addition, early neutering of bitches before the first heat virtually eliminates the risk of breast cancer for bitches. This healthful advantage is attenuated after the first heat and lost following the second heat.

Spotting the signs of pregnancy of dogs

is always best to avoid pregnancy by having your bitch neutered, but accidents happen and you may have chosen for your bitch to have a litter. So how do you know your bitch is pregnant? There are a number of signs you can look out for, and tests your vet can perform, but most are not apparent until your bitch is well into her pregnancy (which on average lasts between 61 and 65 days).

Signs of pregnancy

• A slight mucoid vulval discharge may occur around one month after mating.
• The teats will become more prominent, pinker and erect, due to an increase in the blood supply around the base of the nipples. This should appear between 25 and 30 days after mating.
• Body weight will increase from around day 35 onwards and may increase to 50% over normal.
• The abdomen will enlarge and this should be noticeable from around day 40, although first-time mums and bitches carrying few puppies may not show as much of a change.
• Mammary gland enlargement is noticeable around day 40 and some bitches may express a serous fluid from the teats from this time.
• Behaviour may also change, such as displaying slight depression as well as a drop in appetite, but as these signs can also indicate a problem, consult your vet if they occur.
• Many dogs’ appetite will increase in the second half of pregnancy.
• Closer to the delivery date, your bitch will probably start to express her nesting instincts, scratching at the floor or in her bed, and displaying signs of increasing restlessness.

On average, you should be able to tell whether or not your bitch is pregnant at around one month after mating.

Veterinary procedures
If you do suspect that your dog is pregnant, you'll need to see your vet for confirmation.

• The most commonly used method is ultrasound. This can be used after 20 days (no earlier), and foetal heartbeats can be identified at 22 days, but predicting the number of puppies can be challenging. Ultrasound examinations are comfortable because they are not invasive and very reliable in experienced hands.
• Feeling the abdomen from about 30 days can be accurate if performed by an experienced vet, but this may be difficult if the dog is nervous or slightly overweight. If pregnant, the vet will feel a thickening of the uterus and ‘bumps’ within. The method isn't infallible, however, especially if there is just one pup in the womb or if the pregnancy is not as advanced as first thought.
• From approximately 21-25 days endocrine tests detect relaxin, a hormone exclusively produced by pregnant dogs.
• An x-ray will pick up the skeletons of the puppies from around 45 days. It should also be accurate in determining how many there are. However, most vets prefer not to use this method, as there is a possibility that early exposure of the foetus to x-rays can cause problems. This risk is minimal after 45 days, although sedating the bitch to obtain the image may be more of a problem.

Remember to contact your vet as soon as possible if you think your bitch is pregnant. Certain treatments can be given to prevent a pregnancy if you see your dog mating. Neutering, of course, will save you this worry in the future. However, if you are not sure your bitch is pregnant your vet will discuss which test is best for your pet, as some of these procedures may not be suitable at certain stages of pregnancy. Your vet can also advise you on the best care for your bitch during pregnancy, labour and lactation.

Pregnant Dog's Timeline

Now that we've had a successful breeding, the changes in a female and pups are amazing;

PREGNANCY TIMELINE

WEEK ONE :

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Fertilization occurs
+ 2 cell embryos are in the oviduct
+ The embryo is fairly resistant to external interference in development

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Possible morning sickness
+ Possible personality changes

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Normal feeding
+ Check any and all medications with vet prior to administering
+ No insecticides (i.e., flea treatments)
+ No live vaccines

TO DO LIST+ Put together pedigree on litter
+ Write contract
+ Contact AKC for litter registration application
+ Start taking puppy reservations

WEEK TWO (DAYS 8-14)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Embryo will be 4 cell at start of week and 64 cell by end of week
+ Embryo enters the uterus

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Possible morning sickness

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Continue as with Week One

TO DO LIST+ Nothing special this week

WEEK THREE (DAYS 15-21)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Day 19 -- Implantation of embryos in uterus

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ See above

CARE OF THE BITCH+ See above

TO DO LIST+ Nothing special this week

WEEK FOUR (DAYS 22-28)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Development of eyes and spinal cords
+ Faces take shape
+ Fetuses grow from 5-10 mm to 14-15 mm
+ Organogenesis begins-- Embryos are at their most susceptible to defects
+ Days 26 - 32 are the best days to palpitate (i.e.. feel for the puppies)

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Possible clear vaginal discharge
+ Mammary development begins

CARE OF THE BITCH+ After Day 26, palpitation may be possible to diagnose pregnancy
+ Limit strenuous activity (such as working, jumping, long runs)
+ Add 1/4 cup cottage cheese or a hard boiled egg to food on alternating days

TO DO LIST+ Schedule ultrasound or palpitation with vet if desired

WEEK FIVE (DAYS 29-35)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Development of toes, whisker buds, and claws
+ Fetuses look like dogs
+ Gender can be determined
+ Eyes (previously open) now close
+ Fetuses grow from 18 mm - 30 mm
+ Organogenesis ends -- embryos are fairly resistant to interference with development

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Swelling becomes noticeable
+ Loss of "tuck-up"
+ Weight will start to increase

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Slightly increase amount of food and switch to puppy kibble. If you feed one meal a day, add an extra meal. If you feed twice a day, slightly increase one of the meals.
+ Add daily multi-vitamin
+ Palpitation no longer possible due to fluids in uterus

TO DO LIST+ Nothing special this week

WEEK SIX (DAYS 36-42)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Development of skin pigment
+ Fetuses should weigh around 6 grams and be 45 mm long
+ Fetal heartbeats can be heard with stethoscope

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Nipples darken and enlarge
+ Abdomen continues to enlarge

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Add cottage cheese or hard boiled egg to food daily
+ Increase the amount of food in the extra meal
+ Bitch should start sleeping in whelping box
TO DO LIST
+ Assemble whelping box
+ By this time you should be fairly sure that the bitch is pregnant. Notify the people on your puppy list. Let them know when you expect delivery.

WEEK SEVEN (DAYS 43-49)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Growth and development continues

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Abdomen hair will start shedding
+ The bitch will start to look pregnant at this point

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Slightly increase both meals

TO DO LIST+ Stop any roughhousing or jumping
+ Radiographs (X-rays) possible to determine number and size of puppies

WEEK EIGHT (DAYS 50-57)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Fetal movement can be detected when bitch is at rest
+ Puppies can safely be born from now on

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Milk may be squeezed from nipples
+ The bitch will be very large.

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Add moderate lunch

TO DO LIST+ Gather whelping kit (see below)
+ Prepare phone list for help/support. It should include your vet's phone number, the emergency clinic's phone number, the number of any friends who will be offering support during whelping, and anyone else you might need to contact before, during, or after whelping (like your office to let them know you won't be in!)
+ Make sure your car is gassed up and ready for a possible emergency trip to the vet's office.

WEEK NINE (DAYS 58-65)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES+ Growth and Development continues

CHANGES IN THE BITCH+ Nesting behavior may be seen
+ Bitch may become distressed (panting, pacing, acting uncomfortable)
+ Temperature should be around 100.2-100.8 degrees Farenheit
+ When temperature drops to around 98-99.4 degrees Farenheit, puppies should be born within 24 hours
+ Appetite may disappear as whelping approaches

CARE OF THE BITCH+ Start taking temperature three times a day

TO DO LIST+ Notify vet or emergency clinic when temperature drops so that they will be ready if you have any problems
+ Keep detailed records on temperature and behavior of bitch
+ Double check that whelping supplies are ready

Post Partum

* Make sure each puppy gets some of the bitch's colostrum (first milk) within first 24 hours.
* Lochia (vaginal discharge) should be reddish to reddish-brown (green is okay on first day). If you see black discharge, contact your vet immediately!
* Within 5-6 hours of last puppy's birth, take bitch and puppies to vet for check up. The vet will ensure that the bitch hasn't retained any puppies or placentas and that the puppies are in good health. You especially want to check for cleft palates as these puppies probably won't survive and should be euthanized now.

IS MY DOG PREGNANT

WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN YOUR DOG IS EXPECTING

There are so many books at the local bookstore about pregnancy in people, but not a single resource on what to do when your most devoted Priscilla von Precious has found herself in the family way.

Is your pup preggars? Not to worry. Here it is: VetCentric’s very own Pregnancy Primer for Dog Owners.

THE HEAT IS ON
Let’s start with the canine heat cycle. The canine heat or estrous cycle varies in length. Many people know that their dog goes into “heat” but don’t realize that unlike the human menstrual cycle, which is a non-fertile stage, dogs that are in heat are preparing to ovulate. There are four stages of the estrous cycle. The first stage is proestrus, which is characterized by increased follicular activity of the ovary, a stage that is necessary prior to the release of the eggs. Outward signs include vulvar swelling and bleeding. During this time, your dog will be attractive to males but not receptive to them. In general, this stage lasts six to 11 days with an average of nine days. The end of this cycle is noted when your pet becomes receptive to the male and will stand to be bred.

The second phase is the actual fertile phase or estrus. During this time, the discharge becomes more straw-colored to light pink and the vulva, although still swollen, is softer. The female is now receptive to males and will stand for breeding. This stage generally lasts five to nine days. Unfortunately, it can last as long as 20 days and still be normal. Each dog is different and must be monitored closely. The end of this stage is characterized by the female no longer accepting the male.

The last two stages of the estrous cycle are diestrus, a non-receptive time when the corpora lutea, which produce progesterone, are active on the ovary and anestrus. During anestrus there is no ovarian activity. Diestrus and anestrus are lengthy periods: diestrus lasts 56 to 60 days and anestrus is variable, but several months long. Most dogs cycle twice a year.

The next step in the course of the pregnancy is the actual conception…well, I hope you know how that works, so I’ll skip that part. It takes about 62 days from the day that your dog is bred for the puppies to be born.

A DOGGIE BISCUIT IN THE OVEN
The next logical question is, “How can you tell if your dog is in the family way?” Confirming pregnancy necessitates a trip to the veterinary office. The earliest method of pregnancy detection is ultrasound—a nice test because it is noninvasive and very reliable. Fetal heartbeats can be detected at around the 25th day from first breeding. This is not, however, considered a reliable way to determine fetal number.

One interesting fact about the canine reproductive cycle is that the dog goes through roughly the same hormonal changes whether or not she is pregnant. For this reason, there is no progesterone blood or urine test to diagnose pregnancy in dogs. There is, however, a blood test that will detect relaxin, a hormone that is produced in pregnant dogs but is not found in non-pregnant dogs. This test may be performed mid gestation, which occurs at around the same time that your veterinarian can palpate the fetuses.

Most experienced veterinarians can determine pregnancy by simply feeling the dog’s abdomen during a certain a window of time—about 20-30 days after conception. During this time period, there is uterine swelling around the placental sites that feels like firm and discrete lumps. After 30 days, the uterine swelling is more diffuse and it is difficult to distinguish the gravid uterus from the feel of the intestinal tract. Dogs that are very large or obese may be difficult to examine in any stage, however.

A third way to detect pregnancy is by taking x-rays. Fetal skeletons can be visualized at about 45 days of pregnancy. This test cannot be done until late in gestation, but it is nice to know about how many of the little creatures you can expect once the actual birthing occurs.

GET OUT THE CLEAN TOWELS
Although it takes an average of 62 days for puppies to gestate, normal variation is from 54-72 days depending on the breeding dates. During this time there is really not a lot for you do—just feed the dog her regular diet for the first month. It is absolutely crucial that you do NOT supplement your dog with vitamins during her pregnancy. Although this seems to be against normal thinking, dogs that are supplemented are unable to efficiently extract calcium from their bones after they give birth, and this predisposes them to suffer from hypocalcemia, which can result in muscular weakness and even seizures. Starting in the second month of pregnancy, you will want to switch her diet over to a good quality puppy food. This will provide her with the extra calories that she needs without providing excess supplementation.

Speaking of the blessed event, here is your reward for reading this far. If your dog is pregnant, you will want to start taking her temperature (yeah, you know where) about a week prior to her due date. The normal rectal temperature for dogs ranges from 100 to 102.5F. About 24 hours prior to giving birth the dam’s rectal temperature will drop a few degrees. If you record the temperature daily you will know when it is okay to go out to dinner and when you will have a long night ahead of you.

One to two weeks prior to the delivery, get your whelping box and supplies together. Your whelping box should have sides that are high enough so that four to six week-old puppies cannot get out, but when mom needs a Calgon moment she can leave without doing damage to the milking apparatus. It is also important to have a ledge of some kind all around the inside edge so that no puppies are inadvertently smothered by the mother—the pups should be able to slide under the ledge so that mom cannot squish them. Place the box in a familiar but private area and line it with towels.

Get as many clean towels on hand as possible. It is amazing how many you will use trying to keep the canine family clean. You will also want to have sharp scissors (to cut the cords), dental floss (for tying off cords), and povidone iodine (for disinfecting the cord ends) on hand for the delivery.

I COULD HAVE WHELPED ALL NIGHT…
Okay, so now comes the scary part: actual birthing. Let me tell you that this usually starts at 10 o’clock at night—the perfect time to prevent you from getting any sleep and late enough that you will have to go to the emergency clinic if you have problems. You will also want to make sure that you are wearing clothes that can be thrown away. Whelping is a messy business and there is some bright green goo that can be produced that cannot be washed out of anything with any stain remover on the planet. So, it is definitely a dress down event.

There are three stages of labor. The first stage, which will probably go by undetected, occurs when the cervix is dilating and there are some uterine contractions. You may notice some shivering, restlessness, panting, vomiting, and unwillingness to eat, and the dog may seek out a private place. If you do notice this stage (which lasts six to 12 hours), encourage your pet to go to the whelping area.

Stages two and three, active labor and placental expulsion, conclude with the expulsion of the fetus and the placenta, respectively. If your dog has more than one puppy, she will alternate between stages two and three. Once your dog begins actively straining, the first puppy is usually delivered within 10 to 20 minutes. If the active straining has gone on for an hour unproductively it is time to call the vet. She needs some professional assistance. Many dogs will rest between puppies for an hour or so. This does not require intervention since the dog is not actively straining.

It is normal for puppies to be born either head first or breech (rear first). If you try to assist in delivery, never pull on an ear or a foot; instead, try to hook your fingers behind the shoulders or over the hips and use very gentle downward traction. Some dogs will squat to have puppies; others lie down. My dog thought running around in circles and relying upon centrifugal force would facilitate birthing, so really you must be flexible and responsive to what the mother may need. By the same token, some dogs just grunt quietly as they give birth, and others are screamers.

Most puppies are born with the amniotic sac intact. If mom doesn’t attend to them within the first two minutes, it is time for your intervention. This membrane must be ruptured so that the puppy can breathe. Use a child nasal aspirator to clear the fluid from the mouth and with a clean, dry towel—each pup gets its own—dry the puppy and gently rub near the umbilicus to stimulate respiration. Use the dental floss to tie off the cord about an inch from the puppy’s body, and then cut it with the scissors and dip the end of the cord in the povidone iodine.

Now, I usually let mom lick to her heart’s content. If your dog is an experienced mother or seems to want to do all this herself, there is no reason why you shouldn’t let her tear the membrane and chew off the cord. Eating the placenta, however, is another matter. It is an old wives tale that the mother will not produce milk if she doesn’t eat them. Just take them away from her and she will never know the difference.

MAMA’S LITTLE BABIES
Once all the puppies are born, make sure they all get a chance to have their first meal. The first milk is rich with protective antibodies that really help them to start off on the right foot. You will also want to offer mom a light meal and a potty break. Then you can all have a nice rest.

The next morning, call your veterinarian to apprise him or her of the results of the event. Many vets will want you to bring the brood in so that mom can have a quick check up to make sure that all is returning to normal and that there are no more puppies inside.

For the next six to eight weeks, the mother will be producing a reddish brown to bright green odorless discharge called lochia. This is a normal discharge and nothing to be concerned about. If your dog had a bright red bloody discharge, however, call your veterinarian right away. You will also want to continue to take your dog’s temperature and inspect the mammary glands daily so that any uterine or mammary infection can be caught and treated early.

Now that she’s given birth, you can feed her like gangbusters. Lactation increases your dog’s caloric needs by three to four times. So, it’s time to bring on the extra meals. Make sure that the babies are on a high quality puppy food as well. You should also start to supplement calcium in the mother’s diet by providing her with a specific calcium supplement from your vet or by adding some cottage cheese to her diet. Free access to ample quantities of water must be available for your dog, but do not put it in the whelping box where puppies may drown. Use common sense.

So, congratulations on your new family and enjoy the fun. It has been a long road, but we hope every one is happy and healthy at the end.

Breeding and Caring For Your Pregnant Dog

Less than half of the canine pregnancies I see were planned events. When you are fortunate enough to be able to plan ahead, here are some guidelines that you can follow:

First, be sure the mother dog is over one year of age. Many dogs are accidentally bred on their first heat when they are not much more than puppies themselves. I advise my clients to breed their dog on its second or third heat period. By this time, the length of the dog’s estrus cycle will have been established and you can plan for the event. Most dogs cycle every 5-7 months.

Take the mother dog in to for a veterinary examiantion prior to having her bred. Besides a thorough examination you should be certain the dog is free of intestinal parasites and heartworms. A blood test for brucellosis is also a good idea. If the dog is overweight it will be susceptible to more complications than a lean dog. So place the dog on a diet, if it needs one, six month prior to having it bred.

Someone who has experience breeding dogs should oversee the actual mating. You can locate these people in your area through grooming shops and boarding kennels. Some veterinary hospitals also specialize in breeding dogs but I do not recommend that dogs be bred at hospitals because sick dogs are often present there.

Vaccinations:

The amount of immunity the puppies have to infectious disease is directly related to the immunity of their mothers. The mother’s immunity is passed on to the puppies through her first milk or colostrum. So see to it that your dog is current on all its vaccinations before it is bred. Normally, I do not administer vaccinations to pregnant dogs.

Parasite Control:

Dogs that are bred should be negative for heartworms and for intestinal parasites. Bring a sample of their stool by your local veterinarian for a parasite check prior to breeding the dog. If you have your dog on monthly heartworm preventative it should be negative for both types of parasites. If not, it should be wormed at least twice with pyrantel pamoate or fenbendazole before it is bred. Mother dogs that have intestinal worms pass these worms on to their puppies through the womb and through their milk. Some of the dogs that do this are negative on fecal examinations because the parasites are encysted in their muscles. This is particularly true of dogs that live in kennels with many other dogs. When kenneled dogs are involved the puppies should be wormed at six, nine and eleven weeks of age with pyrantel pamoate. Continue to give heartworm preventative to the mother dog during pregnancy.

Flea control is especially important once the puppies are born. Since Frontline, Advantage and Advantix have warning about their use in pregnant animals, I would skip application of these products during pregnancy and resume again when the pups are born. Do not apply these products to the newborn puppies – just pick any fleas off of them with tweezers and place the fleas into a jar of alcohol. During pregnancy rely on methoprene premises sprays to control fleas.

Nutrition:

Late pregnancy and nursing vastly increase the nutritional needs of dogs. Nursing mothers require even more nutrients than growing dogs. The first six weeks of pregnancy the mother dog should not eat more than its usual pre-pregnancy amount. But starting at the sixth week the dog’s weight and appetite should begin to increase. Start to put down twenty-five percent more food. I like to switch the mother over to a diet designed for puppies and growing dogs at this time but she should do well on any high-quality dog chow that is marketed for all life stages. Because the puppies are pressing against her internal organs the mother may not be able to eat as much at one sitting as before her pregnancy. Feed her several small meals instead of one or two large ones. Be sure plenty of clean water is available at all times. There is no need to give a vitamin or mineral supplement. If the dog begins to loose weight despite being offered the added food, supplement her diet with canned dog food such as Alpo or Pedigree. As pregnancy progresses the expectant mother will eat more and more. Give her all that she desires unless she has a tendency to get fat as some Labradors and other large breeds do. You should always be able to make out her ribs and she should not become flattened over her rump or have a dimple at her tail head.

Some dogs experience a lack of appetite and something approaching “morning sickness” three or four weeks into pregnancy. This should resolve after a week or so. If it does not, see your veterinarian. Adding calcium to the bitch’s diet can actually increase the likelihood of eclampsia or milk fever once the puppies are born. Adding a vitamin supplement is also unnecessary and probably unwise.

The time after the puppies are born begins the most nutritionally challenging time in a dog's life: Her food consumption will steadily increase over 20 to 30 days following birth as the puppies grow and nurse more and more. By the time the first month is over, the mother should be eating two or four times the amount of food she ate before she became pregnant Give her all she wants to eat. If she begins to become too thin you can encourage her to eat by moistening the food or supplement it with more flavorful canned dog food.

Examination By A Veterinarian:

When the expectant mother is about thirty days pregnant schedule an appointment with your veterinarian if the dog was not examined prior to becoming pregnant. This will be a “wellness” examination at which time the veterinarian will either palpate and confirm that puppies are present manually or use an ultrasound or progesterone hormone analysis to confirm the fact. By this time the dog’s nipples should begin to swell. Some veterinarians suggest an X-ray of the mother three weeks prior to delivery to count the number of puppies so you will know when labor is over and all the pups are out. I do not feel that exposing the dog to radiation for this procedure is warranted.dog

Exercise: 

Regular exercise and walks will help your pregnant dog keep her muscle tone and general health. Working the working breeds, intensive training or taking the dog on a show circuit is not a good idea. Obesity is potential danger in pregnant dogs when delivery time comes so control any tendency to fatness with exercise and careful attention to her revised caloric needs. It is much safer to restrict diet before the dog becomes pregnant than after. During the final three weeks of pregnancy the mother dog should be separated from other dogs in the household as well as dogs from outside the family. This isolation should also protect the mother from exposure to herpesvirus of dogs, which causes innocuous vaginal sores and nasal drainage in the mother but is often fatal to puppies.

Preparing For The Puppies:

Prepare a room for the birth to occur. This room should have an impervious floor that makes cleaning easy. It should not be drafty and should be in a quite area of the home. Prepare a bed for the dog that is lined with towels or unused clothes and get her used to using it. If the mother won’t stay in it, you can encourage her to by petting her and giving her small food snacks. Lead her to the designated nursing area when labor begins. If she has her puppies outside of the pre-assigned area, let her. When she has completed the delivery, move them all into the designated bed. Many dogs become very clingy when labor begins and want you to stay with them at all times. They try to follow you when you leave the room. You will probably need to spend some time with this type of dog to comfort her. After the birth of the first few puppies, the mother usually is preoccupied with her pups and not as dependent on your presence. Other bitches will try to get away from you and hide. Give her the space she needs, but keep checking in on her regularly. It is quite possible that you will miss the birth process entirely. You might wake up one morning or return from work only to find you have a brand new litter of offspring contentedly nursing on their mom. If your nursery room is not warm enough, you can warmer it by wrapping a heating pad in a towel, setting it on "low," and placing it under one half of the nursery bed. This allows the mother and puppies to move away from the heat source if they choose to. Wrap duct tape around the heating pad cord because puppies tend to chew on cords. Read my articles on birthing and caring for newborn puppies: 

When labor is eminent the mother’s appetite will disappear. By their third or fourth week the puppies should be starting to eat on their own. Encourage them to eat solids by themselves in order to remove the stress of milk production from the mother. By six to eight weeks the puppies should be fully weaned so the mother’s food can revert back to the amount she ate prior to pregnancy. When you wean the puppies help the mother’s milk supply to dry up. Do this by withholding food and only offering her half the water she normally consumes. The following day, give her only a quarter of her pre-pregnancy food supply and one half the water. From the second day on give her all the water she wants. Slowly increase her food over five days until it is back to her prepregnancy level. If she has lost weight during the pregnancy adjust her food intake upward to make up the lost weight.

Dog Pregnancy Stages Of Your Dog's Pregnancy

Dog Pregnancy Time Line - In Heat

To understand dog pregnancy, you should first get a general comprehension of how her body works. Your dog will experience a heat cycle before she is able to get pregnant. Veterinarians suggest that you do not breed her during her first heat period unless it happens after she is 1 year old. Any earlier would stunt the growth of your young female.

Most dogs go into heat 2 times a year, but it is common to skip one on occasion. While in heat she will be able to breed with more than the one male. She will be in heat for 3 weeks and her cycle will arrive every 6-9 months.

The first thing you will recognize when your dog goes into heat is aswollen vulva and bloody discharge. Eggs are not released yet in this phase of her heat cycle. Male dogs will be chemically drawn to her more than ever before. She still will not show a major interest in them, until this 6-11 day stage comes to an end.

In the second stage of heat she is actually fertile. Her posture willtransform to a stance that invites procreation. Her bleeding will change from light pink to a golden sand color. Her vulva will remain swollen but is softer than before. The most common duration for this stage is 5-9 days but has been known to go on for nearly 20 days for different dogs. Once this stage is finished she will no longer be inviting male attention.

Signs of Dog Pregnancy

Early signs of dog pregnancy include a decreased appetite, a sudden decrease in activity, nipple growth, and behavioral changes. The decreased appetite is similar to a human's morning sickness. If she feels exhausted more than normal, is far more affectionate than her regular behavior or just wants to be left alone, it is because of the hormonal changes triggered by her pregnancy. The tissue and glands underneath her nipples will swell to make room for her baby's milk. Her pregnancy will last between 60-64 days.

After the first few weeks her appetite will reappear and she will rapidly start gaining weight. Her abdomen will thicken and be firm to the touch. Smaller breeds look larger when pregnant than bigger breeds because they have less room to carry all of their puppies. You will be able to feel the puppy movement during the last week of her pregnancy because that is when the babies are getting into position for birth. Don't be surprised to see several drops of milk leaking from her nipples prior to the labor.

You should have prepared her with a whelping box by now. Any location comfortably designated for her nesting needs is good enough to be her whelping area. You can use old blankets or towels to make a soft environment for the babies to be born into. With no whelping box, your female may shred your couch, or invade your closet, to make her own nest.

Dog Pregnancy - Giving Birth

Take her temperature periodically. It is normally 101-102 degrees Fahrenheit. Once you see it drop into the 97-99 degrees range, and notice it has been the same consistently for 2 readings taken 12 hours apart, this is when you can be sure the delivery will happen within the next 24 hours.

Her labor will go through 3 clear stages. The third stage is repeated with the birth of each puppy:

Stage One: She will appear restless and have anxiety. She will often separate herself from any attention. No food will interest her, not even her favorite treats. Take her out to go to the bathroom because it may be her last chance before delivery.

Stage Two: Her contractions will have begun. A green sac of fluid will protrude from her vulva. The puppies will start to appear either headfirst or rear first. Both are normal positions for dogs to be born in. Do not be alarmed to see them quiet and listless directly after birth. Leave her alone to stand or pace, as she needs to. The mother's instincts will cause her to open the sac, and lick the pups to clean them. She will sever the umbilical cord herself, but sometime you may interject if the natural process takes too long. The sac should always be removed immediately if it remained unbroken during the delivery. You may clean the puppies by rubbing them gently with a fresh cloth. Keep rubbing to stimulate their circulation. The mother's tongue or your rubs are what gets them to start squirming and crying.

If the mother struggles with a puppy that becomes lodged then you can try to assist the birth by grasping the puppy with a clean clothe. Firmly exert steady traction but do not jerk or pull suddenly. If you have any questions then call your vet right away.

Stage Three: Her resting period will last a few hours as her mild contractions fade away. If she delivered two pups closer together than her comfort level allowed, then her contractions will take longer to end.

This Is What To Expect When Your Dog Gives Birth

When There Is An Emergency

A vet should always be called:

• If a puppy is lodged and unable to be removed.
• If your dog's labor occurs for 2 hours with no delivery.
• If there is a 4 hour window since the last pup was born and before more are delivered.
• If the delivery of pups doesn't commence after she showed the normal greenish-black discharge in the beginning of the birthing process.
• If her pregnancy has past 65 days.
• If she experiences any uncontrollable tremors, vomiting, or panting.

After The Puppies Arrive - Post-Natal Care

You can periodically examine the mother's nipples to make sure they are not infected, and even palpate them with a warm damp cloth to clean the area. Clip any puppies' nails that can irritate her skin.

She will pass soft stool for a few days due to the natural change in her new eating habit and from the residue she consumed while cleaning her pups.

Do not be alarmed if she eats her pup's feces in the beginning. That is a common thing for new mothers to do and will generally not hurt her. She will still have some remaining vaginal discharge with passing blood clots for a week. Any longer is not normal and should be addressed.

The new mother will take care of the puppies after birth so there is very little you need to do to assist them. She may even act territorial or aggressive initially. This behavior will slow down over time. They will start nursing 2-4 hours after birth. Never place a heating pad down for the puppies, but do realize that the low floor can be 10 degrees cooler than the rest of the room. The puppies need a comfortable room temperature. Their eyes open at 10-14 days old. Their first visit to the vet is at 3 weeks for routine de-worming and a health exam. They need to be weaned at 3-4 weeks of age.

During the weaning process, cut their milk intake down gradually by substituting the remainder of their diet with watered down puppy food and milk replacer. It is good if they start taking solid food, but if you are still having difficulty then never deprive the puppy of the mother's milk until he is able to eat solids for however long it takes.

Make sure to keep the puppies' bed area clean daily. Watch their feeding habits and weight gain to know which puppies need extra nutrients. Never feed human milk. Milk replacer is the only nutritional boost you should feed a small puppy. One or two runts in a litter are common. You may give them a separate feeding time to have an equal chance of achieving a full diet. Always rid their area of fleas because a flea infestation could drain the little pups of blood at a dangerous rate.

Once they reach 6-8 weeks old then they are at the age to be adopted out.

African wild dog

FACT FILE: 
Swahili Name: Mbwa Mwitu
Scientific Name: Lycaon pictus
Size: 30 inches at the shoulder
Weight: 55 to 70 pounds
Lifespan: 10 to 12 years
Habitat: Dense forest to open plains
Diet: Carnivorous/forager
Gestation: 21/2 months
Predators: Humans

The African wild dog, also called the hunting dog, is a vanishing species in East Africa. Field studies have shown that the wild dog is a highly intelligent and social animal. Like most predators, it plays an important role in eliminating sick and weak animals, thereby helping maintain a natural balance and ultimately improving prey species. The stereotype of the wild dog as a cruel butcher is slowly being replaced by a less harsh image.

Physical Characteristics
The African wild dog is long-legged, with massive jaws and very large, erect batlike ears. Although it resembles some domestic dogs, it differs in that it has four toes on each foot instead of five.

The Latin name for the African wild dog means “painted wolf,” which aptly describes the colorful coat of dark brown, black and yellow patches. Wild dogs have bushy tails with white tips that may serve as a flag to keep the pack in contact while hunting

Habitat
Wild dogs live mostly in arid zones and in the savanna. They also are found in woodland and montane habitats where their prey lives.

Behavior
Wild dogs live in packs of six to 20. If the pack numbers fall below six, hunting efficiency is eroded. The dogs have a peculiar rather playful ceremony that bonds them for a common purpose and initiates each hunt. They start circulating among the other pack members, vocalizing and touching until they get excited and are ready to hunt. They start the hunt in an organized, cooperative manner. When prey is targeted, some of the dogs run close to the animal, while others follow behind, taking over when the leader tired. They can run long distances, at speeds up to about 35 miles per hour.

Of the large carnivores, wild dogs are the most efficient hunters – targeted prey rarely escapes. They tear the flesh until the animal falls, consuming even if it is still alive. This behavior may prejudice people against them, although in reality it may be no worse than the prolonged kills of other carnivores. Apart from its undeniable bloodiness, the remarkable aspect of the their hunting is the complete lack of aggression toward each other. Wild dogs have a social hierarchy but unlike many other social animals, there is little obvious intimidation. They have elaborate greeting rituals, accompanied by twittering and whining. Their large range of vocalizations includes a short bark of alarm, a rallying howl and a bell-like contact call that can be heard over long distances.

Diet
They usually hunt in the early morning and again in late evening, prettying on gazelles and other antelopes, warthogs, wildebeests calves and rat and birds. They may raid domestic stock, but as wild dogs seldom stay in one place for long, this damage is not extensive

Caring for the Young
A nuclear pack of about six dogs usually consists of one dominant breeding pair and several nonbreeding adult male helpers. Occasionally another female in the pack forms a subordinate breeding pair with one of the other males. A breeding female gives birth about once a year, with litters averaging about 10 pups, thought as many as 19 have been recorded. They pups are born in a shelter of thick bush or grass, or in a hole. Usually twice as many males are born. Unlike many other species, the female offspring leave the natal group when they reach maturity, not the males.

The hunting members of the pack return to the den where they regurgitate meat for the nursing female and pups. Although litters are very large, very few pups survive. Sometimes the dens are flooded, or the pups die from exposure or disease. When pack numbers are reduced, hunting is not as efficient and adults may not bring back sufficient food for the pups. The entire pack is involved in the welfare of the pups; both males and females babysit the young and provide food for them.

Predators
Throughout Africa wild dogs have been shot and poisoned by farmers, hunters and, at one time, by rangers who considered them as bloodthirsty raiders of livestocks and dispersers of wild herds. As the numbers of these wild dogs dwindle, they become more mysterious, elusive and enigmatic, reappearing suddenly in places they have not inhabited for months and then vanishing again a few days later. Even though protected in parks and reserves, wild dog populations have declined to the point that packs may no longer be viable. In some areas they are close to extinction.

Did you know? 

No two wild dogs are marked exactly the same, making it easy to identify different individuals. Why such a pattern should develop, and how it serves the hunting dog, has long intrigued scientists.
Wild dogs are usually on the move over a very large range, covering for example, some 900 square miles in the Serengeti. After a litter is born, however, they will limit their travelling and hunting to areas closer to the den.