Dog Trick : Teaching Your Dog to Stay

Difficulty: Easy

Consider this scenario:Company arrives, and your dog goes wild. You can't keep him away from them; sniffing, nudging, licking. If only he knew to stay when you told him, to keep a good distance between himself and your company.
You seat yourself at the dining table. The meal is laid out before you, its scent arising around you, ice cold tea poured in the glass next to the salad bowl, and beside you hangs your dog's dripping tongue and his eyes pierce you in want of the food you have yet to taste.

You tell him to get out. He does, but not allowing quite enough time to let you sip your tea, or take a bite, or say a word to your dinner guest as he unfolds a dark-red napkin onto his lap. The dog is back; you give him nothing. He trots past you and lays his large muzzle on top of the black suit pants of your guest, onto his red napkin, stares into his eyes, towards his plate, again into his eyes.

He comes and he goes, and he comes. Lock him outside on the screened-porch? He'll only bark. Loudly. You'll force him out of the room, but he won't stay even if you tell him to. He doesn't know how. You haven't trained him.

Although this command may be unnecessary, since teaching your dog to sit or lay down should keep him in that position until you give the release command, it is sometimes helpful to have a stay command for longer periods of waiting, or if you want your dog to freeze in the middle of an action.

Step 1: Have your dog sit. Click and treat.

Step 2: Say 'stay.' Wait six seconds. Say 'release' then click and treat.

Step 3: Say 'sit,' 'stay' and wait ten seconds. Say 'release' then click and treat. 

Step 4: Repeat four or five times per session.

Step 5: Practice this trick in multiple sessions every day, gradually building up to several minutes before releasing.

OUR EXPERIENCE

We don't usually use the stay command with Caspian, unless we want to emphasize that we want him to freeze and not move. We tell him to stay when we balance a treat or toy on his nose before giving him a release command to catch it. In addition to using the clicker, we would physically restrain him by holding his collar. We would gradually lessen our hold each time until he would stay on his own. We did this because Caspian gets excited really easily, and will sometimes "jump the gun" so to speak.

TEACHING TROUBLE

My dog is so impatient!
Dogs are impatient, it's true. You have him sit, you tell him to stay, but he might have other ideas. You haven't quite reached the ten second mark, and he's running towards you. He's impatient and wants a treat now. He knows that sooner or later he'll get it, and he prefers sooner.

Sometimes, it's the dog owners who are impatient. You tell your dog to stay, but he won't stay so you get frustrated. But screaming at your dog won't help. Be patient. In order for a dog to 'stay,' patience must be put to order, for both the dog and his owner. Go over the steps, and soon you're dog will get the message. Don't relent if they come begging before you reach your set time limit, and don't treat them. You might have to go back a few seconds, or even half a minute. But make sure your dog is staying still as a statue until you say 'release.'

Tip: "Make sure your dog is staying still as a statue until you say release."

Dog Trick : Teaching Dog Come

Difficulty: Moderate 

Items Needed: Clicker, Treats

If you only teach your dog one thing from this book, teach him this command—it could save your dog's life. If your dog will not always come when called, he is not safe off leash. Teaching your dog to come when called is not only valuable for your dog's safety but also makes spending time with your dog more enjoyable knowing that he will not cause trouble by running away. If you teach your dog to come when called, and practice it every day, then you will build a trusting relationship with your dog.

Step 1: Load the cue instead of the clicker. Here's how: 

Go up to your dog and give the command that you will use to call the dog, then treat him. For example: Say the word "here Puddles" and give him a piece of bacon. Repeat multiple times during the day and each time give different treats (bacon, chicken, kibble, tug game; but in addition to treats, always give praise).

Step 2: Go across the room and give the command. "Here Puddles!" He will come to you to get his treat. When he does, click and jackpot (give a large treat or several treats). At this point in the training go back to click treating when he comes.

Step 3: Each time your dog comes to you pet his head and loop your hand under his collar before you give the treat. This is to get your dog used to being held when he comes to you. Dogs will pull away if they think they are being cornered into something they would rather not be doing. This should be a habit for you as well as the dog. 

Step 4: Try calling him from different rooms.

Step 5: Practice calling him when he is interested in something else. Vary the reward each time: sometimes a treat, sometimes just praise.

OUR EXPERIENCE

Caspian is a really smart labradoodle, but the one thing that he used to not be good at was coming when he was called. He gets excited extremely easily and loses focus during a training session if he sees other dogs or other activity going on. Truthfully, we were simply irresponsible in teaching him such an important command. One day, after playing fetch outside in our field, he spotted a squirrel, and took off after it. We tried calling him back to us, but he was too interested in the animal he was chasing. They ran across a road at the same time a car was coming down the mountain. The driver didn't have time to stop, and hit Caspian going around 30 miles per hour. Caspian rolled for about fifty feet, knocking down a construction sign next-door. We rushed him to the emergency veterinarian, who wasn't extremely hopeful. Caspian didn't have any broken bones, but couldn't move his back legs. It was a long road to recovery, but after several days, the swelling on his spinal cord decreased, and he was able to stand for a few seconds at a time. After many months of working with him, he was able to move around like he used to, but not quite as limber. And, even today he carries scars from skidding along the pavement. That experience taught us that teaching the recall command, teaching "come," is more important than anything else we could teach our dog.

TEACHING TROUBLE

I've taught my dog "Come" before, but now he won't obey me.

We originally taught Caspian to "come" as a puppy by playing a game where several people stood in a circle taking turns calling the dog and Caspian would come to each person calling him to get a treat. Unfortunately, later we poisoned the "come" command by using it primarily to go in the house after a play time - he started to associate the command with not being able to play anymore. We decided to start over and teach him using a different command word (we used "here").

Tip: "Get your family or friends to help you out. Have someone call your dog. If he comes to that person, treat. If he comes to someone else, be still and quiet until he finds the person who called him."

Dog Trick : Teach Your Dog Release

Now that your dog knows how to Sit, Lay Down, and Stand, a good command to teach next is Release. This is much easier to teach if your dog consistently sits on command and stays. This is a dog-training essential, a way to tell your dog that it's okay to move around freely. For example, when your dog is playing with a toy, you can have him Sit or Lay Down and then toss the toy. Your dog should remain in the sitting or down position until the Release command is given.

Step 1: Give the command to sit. After waiting five to eight seconds, go ahead and use the vocal command with a hand motion of your choice to tell your dog to be released from his sitting position. If you act excited while doing this, your dog should naturally release. When he does so, click and treat. Repeat this step until your dog is consistently releasing.

Step 2: Eventually, you will want to be less enthusiastic with your command, and will want your dog to release when given a more subtle cue. To do this, again give the command to sit. After your dog holds for 5-8 seconds, use just the vocal command, but still be just as energetic as before. Each time you repeat this, you'll want to tone down your enthusiasm a little at a time to make the command more subtle.

Step 3: In subsequent sessions extend the wait time (about 4 or 5 seconds per session ) before giving the release, gradually building up endurance so that your dog will wait several minutes before being released. 

OUR EXPERIENCE

When teaching Caspian to release from a sitting or down position, we used the term "Go" as our release command. Playing fetch is Caspian's all time favorite thing to do, and we will usually run through several tricks before throwing the ball. This is a good command for us to use to tell him that his patience has paid off, and he can now run after the ball.

TEACHING TROUBLE

My dog releases before I tell him to!

This is a common problem that is easy to fix. What might be happening is your dog senses the amount of time between when you give him the command to sit (or lay down) and when you give him the command to release. Try varying the time between the two commands. Maybe try giving him the release command after 3 seconds, then give him the command after 5 seconds the next time. Another thing that may be happening is that your dog is responding to a visual cue that you aren't aware of. Dogs are smart creatures, and can respond to facial expressions and very slight movements. You might be giving him a cue to release and not even know it!

Tip: "Be enthusiastic as much as you can to help your dog learn this trick!"

Dog Trick : Teach Your Dog to Stand

Now that your dog knows how to Sit and Lay Down, a good command to teach next is Stand. This command is more helpful than novel. Keep in mind, since standing is such a normal thing for your dog it may be difficult for him to understand why he is being rewarded. Sometimes it helps to click him as he stands up from a sitting or laying position. This will help him realize that it is the standing up action you are looking for.

Step 1: Have your dog lay down. Wait for him to stand up. When he stands up, click and treat. Repeat this action several times until he learns that he has to stand up in order to get his treat. Standing is so natural that it is likely that the dog won't immediately understand why he is being rewarded, so it may take more repetition than usual. (Initially, it's okay to click even if he isn't standing perfectly; you can work up to this gradually).

Step 2: Begin to introduce a visual cue (like your hand gesturing upward) and a verbal command ("Stand") so that he can associate those with standing. Click and treat.

Step 3: Have him lay down, then say, "Stand." Jackpot when he stands in the perfect position on command. 

OUR EXPERIENCE

When Caspian learned to stand, I started out having him lay down. I waited until he stood up. While he was standing up, I clicked and treated. Doing this several times, he soon learned that he had to stand up to get a treat. I started using my command (Stand!) as I had him stand up. Soon, he would stand up when I gave the command. I did this in other sessions in Down positions as well as Sitting, Playing Dead, etc., to give him different scenarios for his new trick.

TEACHING TROUBLE

Tip: "Try to keep commands to one or two-syllable words. These are easiest for dogs to identify."

Dog Trick : Teach Your Dog to Lay Down

All you need to teach your dog to lay down is some space, a clicker, and a good treat. Once you have what you need, go ahead and give your dog a small whiff of the treat to get him going. Sometimes this is an easy way to get your dog to try to figure out ways to get more treats.

Step 1: Grab your clicker and a good treat.

Step 2: Just watch your dog and wait for him to lay down. When he lays down, immediately click and treat.

Step 3: Keep waiting for your dog to do it again. Soon he will realize that he gets a click and treat whenever 

he lays down.

Step 4: When your dog begins to lay down more often, add the command and say "Down" when you click. 

Step 5: After repeating a few more times to reinforce the action, say, "Down." If the dog lays down at the command, give him a jackpot for his good work!

OUR EXPERIENCE

The treat I used is just a slice of American cheese. It digests well for dogs, and Caspian really enjoys it. At first, of course, Caspian didn't know what to do. Since we were training outside, all the sounds and smells of neighborhood activities got in the way. I had to call him back to me a few times when he got distracted. But the treat I had for him was good and, of course, Caspian is eager to do anything for a good treat.

TEACHING TROUBLE

Tip: "A good idea is to teach this trick in a small room, such as a bathroom. Because of the small space, dogs are more likely to lay down faster."

Dog Trick : Teach Your Dog to Sit

With your clicker ready, wait for your dog to sit on his own. This part of the training session is fun for dogs, it's like a game to them. They have to figure out what to do in order to get the treat. They might spin around, lay down, come up and nudge you—whatever he does, just ignore him until he sits. When he does this immediately click and treat. The first treat should be a generous one, enough to get him motivated for more.

Keep on waiting until he sits again. Whenever he sits, click and treat. By this time it is normal for a dog to get frustrated since he often can't remember why he got the treat the first time and doesn't understand why he isn't getting one now (see Teaching Trouble below).

Keep clicking and treating when he sits. Soon a light will come on in the little guy's brain: "If I sit, I'll get a treat!" He'll start doing it more. When your dog gets to this stage of the training process, start saying the word "Sit" whenever you click. This will reinforce the command with his action.

Then, tell your dog to sit—he should do it right away. As soon as he does, give him a jackpot and a good petting for a job well done.

Step 1: Wait until he sits down on his own. Click and treat.
Step 2: Repeat several times.
Step 3: Say Sit as soon as he sits. Click and treat.
Step 4: Repeat several times.
Step 5: Say Sit. If he sits, click and give him a jackpot. If he does not, return to Step 4.

OUR EXPERIENCE

This was the very first trick we taught Caspian. We were so anxious to begin training him, we had barely gotten him home before we were clicking and treating. Our poor dog was so tired, he had been on a flight all day just to get to us, but he had enough energy to try this trick a few minutes before falling asleep. We had no trouble teaching Caspian this command. He was obediently sitting within just a few minutes.

TEACHING TROUBLE

He doesn't know what to do!
Be patient with him if he starts barking or whining. Ignore the behavior and wait. You sometimes have to be very patient when clicker training your dog. If your dog gets frustrated, wait until he sits, click and treat well, and take a break. It is better to have short productive training sessions with lots of breaks than long unfruitful sessions.
Tip: "It could take several training sessions for you to perfect a trick. Make sure you don't wear your dog out, give him plenty of breaks. Always end on a good note and you will never go wrong."

Dog Trick - Teach Your Dog to Touch

In this next trick, you will teach your dog to touch the end of a "Touch Stick." This is just a wooden dowel that's around 36 inches long and ⅜ inches thick. I recommend putting duct tape around the ends to protect your dog from any sharp edges. Wind the tape around and around the ends so that it pads the ends of the stick. With the touch stick, you will be able to teach many of the other tricks in this book, so learning this right away is essential for your dog.

Step 1: Hold your touch stick away from you and wait.

Step 2: Dogs are naturally curious, so when your dog touches it with his nose or mouth, click and treat. Keep doing this until he starts touching the stick without hesitation. If he isn't curious about the touch stick, gently tap his nose and click at the same time.

Step 3: Next time he touches the stick, click and treat, giving the command, "touch" at the same time. 

Step 4: When he can touch the stick on command, give him a jackpot, and make sure to praise him for his good work.

OUR EXPERIENCE

When I taught Caspian to touch the stick, I started out by holding it away from myself and waiting on him to decide what to do. He stared at it for a while, but finally, he curiously touched the end of it with his nose. I clicked immediately and gave him a treat. After doing this a few times, Caspian started touching without hesitating. He knew he'd get a treat if he touched the stick. By this point I started saying, "Touch!" when his nose touched the end of the stick. After several times doing this, he was able to touch the stick at the command. A few more sessions perfected this trick, and I have been able to use it as a foundation for many other tricks!

TEACHING TROUBLE

My dog is touching the wrong part of the stick!

When Caspian started touching the middle of the stick rather than the tip, I just ignored him. Of course, he thought he deserved a treat and started growling at me. I said nothing and ignored him. If I rewarded him for touching the wrong part of the stick, this trick wouldn't be as effective in teaching Caspian other tricks. Finally Caspian decided he should try something else and moved his nose on down to the tip. As soon as his nose touched the taped part of the stick, I clicked and treated.

Tip: "When making your touch stick, make sure that the ends are covered to protect your dog from injury. You can cover the end of the dowel with layers of duct tape or other soft covering."

Dog Trick : Teach Your Dog Its Name

After teaching your dog to respond to the clicker, you are now ready to use it to teach him many tricks and commands. Throughout the site, we demonstrate how the clicker can be used for both basic commands and more advanced tricks. If you want a well trained dog, one of the first things you need to teach is the most basic of commands: his name.

Basically, you want to "catch" good behavior with the clicker. What this means is that you want to train your dog that whenever you click (which means he has done something good.) The way we train the dog to respond to the clicker is simply by clicking and immediately treating the dog. It won't take your dog long to understand that whenever he hears the clicker he'll get a treat. This is an essential step in clicker training your dog. Another term that we will use isjackpot. This is an extra reward that you give your dog, usually when he has done exceptionally well or performed the trick perfectly for the first time.

Step 1: Ignore your dog until he looks directly at you. Click and treat.

Step 2: Do this several times, eventually adding your dog's name right before you click and treat.

Step 3: Continue doing this until your dog will look at you when you say his name.

OUR EXPERIENCE

With Caspian, I grabbed my clicker and tore some bacon into small pieces. The first thing that Caspian needed to know was that whenever he looked at me, I would click and he could get a piece of bacon. I started out just ignoring Caspian and all he was doing. He looked down for a minute, exasperated, and then back up at me. Suddenly, he heard a click, and a treat dropped to the ground. A bit surprised (and grateful), he immediately swallowed it and looked up again. CLICK! and drop. I threw it a bit farther away this time so he had to turn around. When he got his treat, he turned around to look at me, and I clicked and treated again. By this time I had started saying his name whenever he looked at me. "Caspian," click, treat.

Soon, I knew he was getting the idea of what was going on. I waited until he looked away and I said, "Caspian." He jerked his head over toward where I was sitting and I clicked and treated, giving him a big piece of bacon.

TEACHING TROUBLE

Why doesn't he remember tricks?

Even though Caspian had learned his name by the end of the session, I continued to have training sessions with him just to reinforce the trick. It's so easy for a dog to learn a trick and do it every time today, but tomorrow it is forgotten. If we are patient and stick with it, our dogs will do the same and will eventually obey us every time.

Tip: "Always end before your dog gets tired. You want your dog to look forward to his training session. Sessions are more productive when they enjoy it."

Dog Trick : Respond to the Clicker

alldog360 recommends Clicker Training for your dog. This is a simple yet highly effective method, the average dog owner in mind. You don't need to know much about dog training to use this method.

Basically, you want to "catch" good behavior with the clicker. What this means is that you want to train your dog that whenever you click (which means he has done something good.) The way we train the dog to respond to the clicker is simply by clicking and immediately treating the dog. It won't take your dog long to understand that whenever he hears the clicker he'll get a treat. This is an essential step in clicker training your dog. Another term that we will use is jackpot. This is an extra reward that you give your dog, usually when he has done exceptionally well or performed the trick perfectly for the first time.

Step 1: Click and give your dog a treat.

Step 2: Repeat about 30 times. This teaches your dog to associate the click with the treat.

Step 3: To maintain this connection, it is important to follow the rule: Never click without treating and never treat without clicking. We have one exception to this important rule in the Come command

OUR EXPERIENCE

When I taught my dog Caspian to respond to the clicker, I did it over several training sessions. By the end of each five-minute session, he would always jerk his head toward me when he heard the sound of the clicker. Of course, I had to give him several training sessions to reinforce his learning.

TEACHING TROUBLE

Where Can I Find More Info On This Method?

Renowned dog trainer Karen Pryor has several books on the Clicker Training Method, which are great resources for any dog trainer, experienced or not.

Training for Dogs : Clicker

Clicker training first began development by Burrhus Frederic "B. F." Skinner, a Harvard psychology professor who made several scientific claims that jumpstarted the clicker training method, or rather the broader category called "Operant Conditioning."

According to the dictionary, operant conditioning is "the use of consequences to modify the occurrence and form of behavior." This means that whenever a subject performs an action, the the action will be reinforced either negatively or positively.

It was B.F Skinner's two understudies that started operant conditioning with animals. Their names were Marian and Keller Breland. While they worked for Dr. Skinner, they noticed how effective operant conditioning worked with animals. During World War Two, they started a company called "Animal Behavior Enterprises," training pigeons for use in the War. After that, they built the I.Q. Zoo, where they trained chickens to play tic-tac-toe, raccoons to play basketball, and ducks to play pianos and drums.

What does this have to do with me?

The Clicker Training Method is a method based on Operant Conditioning. All you have to do is reward your dog whenever it does the thing your are trying to teach it to do. For example, you catch your dog sitting, all you have to do is reward it then and there. Sounds pretty simple, right? But there's a problem: before you can even say "Good Boy," your dog's thoughts are elsewhere, making it difficult to make the dog quickly understand a trick. This is where the clicker comes in handy. This is just a small plastic box with a thin piece of metal on the inside. When you press the button, (or on some clickers, just press in the thin metal sheet), the device will make a sharp metallic click.

After just a few minutes of training, your dog can learn that whenever you click, it means "treat." The way to get the dog to learn this is simple: just click your clicker, and treat the dog. Do this several times, and pretty soon whenever you click, the dog will look around expectantly for a treat. Now whenever you catch your dog doing something that you want it to do, just click your clicker.

Benefits Of Using Clicker Training For Dogs

The really great thing about this method is that it is so satisfying. In only a few training sessions with the clicker, you will be able to see huge results. With clicker training, I was able to teach my dog to sit the very first day I got him. He was sitting on command at the end of the first five minute training session. Talk about results!

Another great thing about the clicker method is that anyone can train the dog, even children. Involving your children in animal training is both fun and educational. Because Clicker training is easy to use, lets your children be involved, and most importantly has huge results, it is one of the best training methods for animals today.

Pool Safety for Dogs

Keeping your dog cool during the summer months is extremely important. It can prevent heat stroke, dehydration or even death. Dogs not only need to drink plenty of water to keep cool—many of them like to swim in it as well! While it is a great form of exercise and will help to keep Fido from overheating, many dogs drown each year from pool accidents that could have been avoided. 

If your dog loves the water and loves to jump into the pool, make sure he knows how to get out safely. If a dog falls into a river or lake, his instinct will tell him to turn around and try to get out from the point at which he fell in. This may work well in a lake or a river, but in a suburban swimming pool the dog may drown if he adopts this instinctive action. Therefore it is important to teach your dog where and how to get out of the pool, regardless of where he went in.

To teach a dog how to exit a pool, first attach a recall leash to his collar. Gently place the dog into the pool from the steps. The dog will instinctively turn around and get out from the point of entry—the steps. Place the dog in the pool from the steps several times. Once he realizes that he can scramble out via the steps, move to the other sides of the pool and again gently place the dog into the pool. Use the recall leash to guide the dog to the step area, giving as little help as possible to the dog.

Once your dog has oriented himself to the steps in relation to the house and understands how to use the steps to exit the pool, the danger of him drowning in the pool will be reduced. Practice as much as possible with your dog, especially with pups, but make certain your dog does not become exhausted. The most you will be able to achieve at any one time is three or four entries and exits.

With regards to exhaustion, it is also important for you to keep an eye on your dog while in the pool because swimming can be very tiring for a dog. Just like many dogs will chase a ball or Frisbee again and again until they nearly collapse, many dogs will continue swimming without any thought as to how tired they are. And unlike chasing a ball on land, they have no solid ground on which to rest. 

If a dog has year-round access to the pool area, you should conduct pool safety in all weather, hot and cold. Try to keep the pool’s water level as full as possible, as the dog has a much greater chance of being able to get out the closer the water level is to dry land. 

If you don’t have access to a pool that allows dogs but still want to take him swimming, nature offers other enjoyable options. However, be aware of the surrounding area if you take your dog to the beach, lake or pond. Watch for trouble and make sure your dog will come to you as soon as you call. Recall is one of the most important lessons you can teach your dog. It can literally save his life.

With a little planning and forethought, you can help your dog swim without incident in most any environment during the hot summer months. We love our pets and want them to be with us for as long as possible, and the above tips will go a long way to ensure their safety.

Outdoor Games for Your Dog

Your dog loves fresh air and sunshine as much as you do—not to mention all the new and interesting sights and smells the outdoors brings! Try some of these outside games and activities to keep your dog healthy and happy. In addition, playing with your dog, like training him, enhances the bond you share and helps him keep his focus on you! 

You can change these games depending on how your dog is best motivated: praise/belly rubs, favorite toys, items to fetch, or treats. If you do use treats, one way to keep your dog from gaining weight from too many snacks is to use some of his mealtime kibble to play the games. As with any activity, keep each session short and fun! It’s better to end the game before your dog gets bored or overly excited.

FREESTYLE OBEDIENCE

Take your dog to a large open area or yard and have him follow you around as you deliver commands: SIT, DOWN, STAY, COME, etc. Give lots of praise when your dog completes the correct action. You can then move on to more advanced commands, teaching your dog to BACK UP, JUMP over something, CIRCLE around, etc. Continue walking around the area so that your dog has to focus his attention on you!

OBSTACLE COURSE

Set up your own obstacle course and see just how much your dog has picked up from watching all those agility shows on TV. Try including a tube (such as an agility tunnel/chute, available at most pet retailers) for your dog to run through, a pause table, a ladder, weaving sticks, poles to jump over, etc.—you can be creative with everyday items already in your yard, like sticks or Hula-Hoops. Start with your dog on a leash, and walk him through the course in the order you want him to complete the obstacles. Give him lots of praise when he gets it right, and recruit friends, family and neighbors to serve as judges—or to bring their own dogs to compete!

BATTING PRACTICE

For a twist on traditional fetch, grab a Wiffle bat and a dog-safe ball to hit across the yard or a park and have your dog play outfielder—no glove required! Try not to hit another ball until your dog has brought the first all the way back to you so that he learns he must return the item for the game to continue.

WET FETCH 

If you have a body of water available that your dog is allowed to play in—such as a lake or pool—it can be a great way to take fetch to another level and cool off your pooch. Take a couple of balls or toys that will float to the water’s edge and throw them in for your dog to swim after! If your dog hasn’t had much experience in the water, start by tossing the object just at the edge of the water, so all he has to do is get his feet wet, and slowly throw it farther. Remember that not all dogs like to swim—don’t push your dog to go in deeper than he is ready to, and make sure to first teach him where he can safely and easily exit the water.

HOMEMADE PUP-SICLES

You can use a Popsicle mold or just an ice cube tray to freeze yummy, refreshing treats for your dog. Get creative by tossing ingredients such as yogurt, bananas, peanut butter, and carrots into a blender with a little water or, for picky pooches, chicken or beef broth (all-natural or low sodium versions are best). If your dog is a dedicated chewer, try stuffing a KONG® toy with your concoction and putting it in the freezer. Your dog will look forward to cooling off with his special reward at the end of playtime.

TRACKING

While not all dogs will take to scenting and tracking, it’s a fun experiment to try! Go somewhere that your scent isn’t already scattered—or use a strong- and unique-scented piece of leather—and shuffle your feet or rub the leather in a distinct but straightforward pattern. Have someone else stay with your dog indoors or out of sight. Then, have your dog sniff you and your feet (or the leather) and lead him along the path you created, encouraging him to sniff along the way. If he seems to be getting it, try it again, somewhere you haven’t been, and increase the complexity of your trail.

WET & WILD

Fill up a kiddie pool with water and encourage your dog to splash around. For even more fun, grab a hose and have your dog chase the stream of water in and out of the pool. Add some dog-safe shampoo to combine playtime and a bath!

HIDDEN TREASURE?

Start with your dog in a SIT/STAY, allowing him to smell a treat, then hide it somewhere in the yard. Release your dog from the SIT and watch him explore with unbridled enthusiasm to find it! As your dog masters the game, add a degree of difficulty by hiding a number of treats in advance. You can also try scatter-feeding your dog his kibble at mealtimes (throwing it all around the yard)—many dogs will spend hours enthusiastically hunting for every last bit.

WALK THIS WAY

In addition to being great exercise for you and your dog, walking is an activity almost anyone can participate in and a great way to get to know your neighbors! Organize a monthly, weekly, or even daily walking group for your neighborhood or apartment building. Keep it interesting by choosing different destinations (like dog parks or dog-friendly stores and cafes), or up the intensity by choosing portions to pick up the pace. This will keep your dog intellectually as well as physically engaged and is guaranteed to wear you both out!

BIKEJORING

Once your dog has a firm grasp on basic obedience and on-leash manners, consider bringing him along on your bike rides! There are a variety of devices and special harnesses that are specifically made for this sport—called “bikejoring”—that attach your dog safely to a bicycle. Never attempt this by just holding your dog’s normal leash in your hand while steering. Start slowly, guiding your dog along at a steady pace, and keep rides short. Gradually build speed and distance. You can also check for canine biking classes in your area.

In addition to the activities above, Training Dogs the Aussie Way by Bark Busters founders Danny and Sylvia Wilson contains about 20 pages of tricks to work on with your dog (available at the Bark Busters Boutique,Amazon.com, or from your local Bark Busters trainer). Remember that basic obedience is the foundation for having fun with your dog—games and activities should be a fun and rewarding bonding experience, not a stressful time, for you and your dog.

Dog Walking for Weight Loss & Exercise

Turn on any TV or radio, and it won’t be long before a pitch for the latest fad diet, exercise gadget, or weight loss book surges through the speakers. But missing from the over-hyped offers is the most critical ingredient for success—the motivation to stick to the plan. Enter our furry canine friends.

America has a love affair with its pets. And canine companions are the “top dog” with more than 34 percent of American households owning one or more dogs. That’s more than 70 million pooches in the United States! While dog lovers nationwide know the strong emotional bond that can develop between humans and dogs, a study at the University of Missouri-Columbia has found that this relationship can result in more exercise and more weight loss than most nationally known diet plans. The study showed that participants who walked their dogs daily lost 14 pounds on average in less than a year—far more than the average “fad” dieter. A key reason for the better results: the dog walkers stayed with the program because of the emotional connection between dog and dog owner.

Dogs are pack animals. As such, they relish companionship. While we humans are not described as “pack” animals, we are social creatures who also need companionship. Therefore, dogs are perfect pets for humans since the relationship is based on the same need for love and interaction. This mutual need was a key driver for the study participants, who reportedly “stuck to the program” because the emotional bond was a motivator.

Despite a solid emotional bond, many dog lovers have difficulty controlling their dogs on leash while walking, which can dramatically reduce the frequency of walks and the enjoyment of them. We’ve all seen the scenario: the hapless human stumbling down the sidewalk, dragged by the dominating dog. It’s a classic suburban image—but it need not be that way. As pack animals, dogs need clear and consistent leadership to feel safe and happy, whether within their packs or their human families. This need is instinctual. If in a dog’s mind a human companion is not up to the task, the dog will constantly challenge for leadership.

Both research and anecdotal evidence show that the key to managing dog behavior is communication and leadership. Dogs have a specific manner of communicating and need leadership to feel secure. If they don’t get it from us, they will instinctually try to take charge, which can lead to behavior problems. Just like humans, dogs need training to set parameters for behavior. Your dog’s behavior on leash is in large part dependent upon your leadership and the way you communicate.

Establishing On-leash Leadership
The key is focus, focus, focus. Keep your dog focused on you, rather than distractions, such as other dogs, people, kids’ toys, etc. To establish and maintain this focus, anticipate distractions (rather than waiting for a distraction to occur), communicate with your dog in a way he understands. To refocus your dog, voice a low guttural growl and gently flick the leash, just enough to get your dog’s attention. When your dog responds appropriately, give positive praise in a high-toned voice, such as “good dog.” Use this technique to direct your dog to walk at your side. When the dog’s focus strays, repeat the procedure. With practice, dogs will respond to this method because it is similar to their instinctual method of communications.

More Ideas for Walking Dogs 

Keep your dog’s interest by changing pace frequently—intermittently walk fast, slow, stop, etc. Do this regularly and your dog will see this as a game—and find the activity fun and stimulating. Also, dogs can easily differentiate sounds. When you want to stop, shuffle your feet on the ground to indicate you are coming to a stop. Also, change directions frequently. Go left, right, turn in front of the dog, reverse direction, etc. Each time you make a change in direction give a gentle flick of the leash to alert your dog you are about to change direction.

Gaining a better understanding of the dog psyche strengthens the human-canine connection, and learning how to communicate effectively with your dog in a language he understands is a critical step in establishing leadership and control. With some practice, dog owners can establish the leadership required for a satisfying stroll with Fido and reap the benefits of both weight loss and overall fitness. Much more so than the ubiquitous weight-loss infomercials, the emotional bond will be a motivator—and your waistline and your pooch will thank you.

Creating a Dog-Friendly Backyard

Creating a dog-friendly backyard brings many benefits such as the dog’s safety, prevention of boredom and attendant misbehaviors, exercise, and enjoyment of nature.

Remember, though, that while letting your dog have a free romp in your yard keeps him exercised, active and happy, the yard should be used only as a temporary retreat. Nothing can replace the time you spend with your furry pal to enhance your relationship and seal your special bond.

Dogs kept in a bland backyard all day are far more likely to misbehave with chewing, digging, excessive barking, pacing along the fence, or fence fighting with other dogs. Adapting your yard to make it more comfortable and appealing to your dog will go a long way toward making for a more contented, relaxed canine companion.

Poisonous Ingestibles

Dogs that are bored or hungry will be tempted to eat anything they find in your yard, including plants or flowers. Dogs can become extremely ill or even die from eating poisonous plants. Ask your vet for a list of plants to avoid. To help prevent your dog from eating plants, don’t garden with him present—otherwise he may conclude that playing with plants and digging are acceptable activities. 

Mulch can also be problematic. Many types of mulch are toxic, especially cocoa bean mulch. Large-size wood mulch can harm your dog if he chews on it, creating wood splinters that could lodge in his mouth or stomach.

Don’t leave out any products meant for outdoor use where your pet can get into them. This includes lawn chemicals like fertilizers and weed killers, antifreeze, pesticides, and outdoor grilling supplies like charcoal and lighter fluid.

Chewing

Dogs chew for various reasons, such as stress, boredom, teething or diet deficiency. There are different things you can try to prevent this behavior, depending on your dog and what he is chewing. The easiest way to stop your dog from chewing is to have the item itself give the correction by applying a foul-tasting product such as Bitter Apple spray, citronella or hot chili sauce to it. However, since dogs’ tastes vary, you’ll need to experiment to see what works best.

Keep your dog entertained by providing high-quality puzzle toys that reward him with treats, such as the Buster Cube® and KONG® products. Every few days, rotate what toys are available to him, so that he has something new and fun to hold his interest. 

Never give your dog old shoes or clothing items to chew, as he may not distinguish between these old items and new ones. Also be aware that plastic drink bottles may inadvertently teach your dog that plastic is okay to chew, which means plastic planters, hoses and garden furniture become likely targets for his teeth.

Water

Water is always essential to your pooch, so be sure the yard includes a large water bowl filled with fresh water in all seasons. 

If you choose to incorporate a water feature such as a small pond, be sure to use the kind that circulates water to help avoid mosquitoes. Still-water ponds need chemical additives to kill the larvae that will grow there, and is unhealthy for household pets. 

If you have a swimming pool, consider constructing a barrier to prevent accidents. Or, teach your dog to swim and show him where to exit the pool.

Shade

While being outside can make for a happy dog, being stuck in the blazing sun is unhealthy. Create a cool spot for your pooch by scraping an indented area in a shady place where he can relax in comfort. Without such a place, your dog may create his own spot in an area not of your choosing.

Digging

Digging is a normal behavior for dogs. They dig in search of food, to investigate sounds and smells, to improve their shelter, or to escape.

Digging can be triggered by boredom, separation anxiety, chasing rodents or bugs, and/or a nutritional deficiency. The reason for the digging must be determined before a possible training solution can be tried. A qualified dog behavioral therapist such as a Bark Busters trainer can help you with this tricky behavioral issue.

Scratching at the Back Door

A dog will scratch at the back door because all the good, fun stuff is kept inside—including you. Give your dog a bone or scatter food (see below) when you put him outside. Whether he is outside or inside, he must know that he is always in safe territory with an abundance of food.

Scatter food appeals to a dog’s natural instinct to forage. Dogs enjoy looking for food on the ground and will literally spend hours doing so. Scatter a variety of foods—bits of raw vegetables, dog kibble, and other foods that won’t attract wasps—around the yard when you leave. Try hiding a few treats so your dog spends extra time looking for them. 

If your dog scratches at the door and cries to come in, ignore him. Let him in only when he stops. If he begins to stress, correct him from inside the house. Do not go out.

Fences and Gates 

A fence helps to keep your dog safely on your property and out of harm’s way. If your yard has a traditional fence (chain link or wood), be sure all gates latch correctly each time they are closed. Check the fence for holes or other openings. If there are gaps, place bricks or large stones in front of the holes, otherwise your pet might find a way out of the yard.

Because some homeowner’s associations do not allow traditional fences, a popular alternative is the electronic or “invisible” dog fence. Choosing this type of barrier has many benefits (it keeps the landscape tidy), as well as drawbacks—while the fence may keep your pet in, it doesn’t keep other animals or people out. 

Maintaining the Yard

Maintain the yard’s cleanliness by regularly picking up after your dog. Some dogs can be trained to use one area for toileting. While the nitrogen in dog urine can be very hard on lawns, watering the area after the dog has urinated can help to minimize damage.

Keep your dog (and anyone else) off the lawn after any yard treatments—fertilizers, herbicides or insecticides—until the chemicals have dried completely.

Also, be careful of metal lawn edging. Metal edging invites great risk of your dog stepping on it and seriously cutting his paw.

Dog Houses

If your dog is kept outside, make sure he has shelter in which to get out of the weather. Dogs are more relaxed when they are covered and in familiar surroundings. Place the dog house next to your family’s house so that your dog feels like it is an extension of the larger “den.” Provide a blanket or other comfy bedding, and be sure he has access to fresh water.

Choose a house made of a naturally rot-resistant material such as plastic or red cedar, but do not use pressure-treated wood, which can contain arsenic. Use rust-proof galvanized nails and screws.

The house should be raised from the ground to insulate the dog from moisture and chills, and should be large enough for him to comfortably turn around but small enough to retain his body heat. In colder climates, your dog may appreciate a heated dog house, whether created by a dog house heater or a solar panel.

Training Your Dog Can Save Your Yard Too!

Training your dog correctly and regularly will keep him mentally stimulated and help to decrease his overall level of stress. Remember, you can correct your dog for digging, barking, scratching at the door, etc., only if you catch him in the act; correcting after the event is pointless.

A qualified dog behavioral therapist such as a Bark Busters trainer can help you discover the source of the reasons for your dog’s outdoor misbehaviors and can provide ways to correct the problems. Your dog and your family will be happier for it!

Dogs Travel management

With so many methods of transport, it is hardly surprising that for a percentage we observe a few problems. I will not go through all of them but the cures are normally all the same so you can adopt them as necessary. Many of these are in fact traceable back to the apprehension of the owners. We can be our dog’s worst enemy in assuming such a little bundle of fur is so fragile and needs our protection. We have the “Arrr” factor that turns us into illogical carers. Evolution taught a puppy to lean at an amazing rate to accustom itself to its ever-changing environment in order that it can survive and yet we try to interfere thinking we are doing the right thing. We must try to stand back and let it learn only giving guidance by caring, reward or appropriate chastisement when it is deemed necessary. Watching a puppy learn is exciting and wonderful to see and helps us to better understand then. By watching, we learn about the character of our puppy and how to communicate with it as well as making some needed changes.

Do not make a lot of fuss showing your concern or worries as this only reinforces to the dog that there is something to concern it. Be calm and let that be the influence you convey to your dog. Think happy thoughts or jolly hockey sticks if you are a Roger Mugford fan (I do have my concerns about him) as this controls your body language that your pup is reading. (Anyone who has done acting will know what I mean)

The most common problems are usually associated with cars and are probably a result from its very first encounter. Many breeders and rescue shelters now recognise this and are beginning to take puppies out for short trips in the car in order to accustom them to car travel in preparation for the new owners.

We all are aware that changing homes is stressful for humans as it is for dogs and their reactions to traveling for the first time in a car will surface in differing ways. We can have howling, barking, running around, cowering, sickness, urinating even defecation or they just settle down and go to sleep. If this is its first trip in a car think of the changes, it is making and loosing all the other puppies and its mother. (Gut wrenching stuff) If you think about it the new dog receives a first car trip, new people, new home, new bedding, new food, new toys, new sounds and a new silence. Bringing a new dog home is adoption and would you not take some time if you were to adopt a child so do you not think the dog is at least entitled to getting to know you. Try not to make too many changes all in one go.

Make this first car trip before the puppy’s normally feeding time and let food be the reward on arriving at its new home. Give the dog some exercise before the trip to wear it out and then it is looking for a chance to rest. If you have taken a blanket some days or weeks before for all the puppies to use as bedding and having become impregnated with the puppies smell you can lay this down in the car to help to reduce the stress.

Make a short trip first before actually setting off like just around the car park and then let the dog out for a short walk and give lots of praise. Take the pup for a short circular trip and then return to the kennel as if you are returning it to the kennels. (We are wicked are we not)? This will make the pup think the next trip will also be back to the kennel. You can offer a toy to play with or a nice juicy bone to occupy its time. An arm through the dog guard stroking the dog may also help calm the dog. Do prepare for the eventuality that the trip may not go so well and try not to frighten your dog if it is sick or shows any signs of fear. Act normally and take your dog’s mind off it and onto something else. Be cautious and aware of the potential dangers of letting your dog sit on your lap. You do not intend to do this forever so why start now.

Other problems in traveling are dogs taken for a walk usually end up caked in mud or wet from swimming and should stay in the back but how many jump forward and wet your lovely upholstery making it look like a riverbed. How many of you still have the spot marks all over the car interior after a dog shook itself. Dogs locked in the car start to renovate your upholstery trying to dig themselves out of the windows or down at the doors. It is for these reasons I prefer a covered pickup and particular cab pickups. No longer are these considered as only workers vehicles, because now they are elevated to status symbols because they are so well equipped and wet smelly dogs are happy in the back drying off peacefully.

To solve most of these problems and for far greater canine safety one item I would advise purchasing is a training/traveling crate. Wolves and dogs naturally love a den of their own for their own feeling of security. To familiarise them to your dog take it into the house as they love and need somewhere to call home. There are many times dog are confined for travel, kennels or at the vets so if they are familiar with having a den then such times will be less stressful for your dog.

Strong steel mesh Crates are a real benefit used in the back of the car as the dog is under control and safer in the event of any accident for both dogs and humans. Imagine a loose dog in a sudden stop accident flying forward due to inertia. How many times has your dog slid off the seat when you had to break hard? (In Spain that is at least once every day) Driving with a dog wandering around the car is dangerous. I am not keen on the dog harnesses as they restrict the dog to turn around and appear generally uncomfortable. In big estate cars even with a dog-guard, the dog has too much room and in an accident results in injury when thrown about. They are also not that secure, as they are additions and not permanently fixed into place. If you stop and open a door, your dog could jump out in front of another vehicle. How many times have you opened the tailgate and tried to stop your dog jumping out? The designs of the lifting tailgates never considered dog behaviour. One further advantage is that you can leave tailgates and windows open allowing better air circulation and keep your dogs cool. With the grills that fit into the lowered windows, they are not that secure and I have known many dogs dislodge these as well as dog guards to gain an escape.

I fitted crates in the back of my covered pickup and whenever I left the back open to allow the air to circulate, I inevitably found the dogs asleep in their own crates. My dogs traveled all over the country so to them their beds simply went with them. They always slept in their own crate. Given the choice of sleeping at home in their individual runs and kennels or in the back of the pickup the pickup was the most popular.

One problem with big dogs is not all cars or even estate cars can accommodate standard crates. If you check out places that do welding, they may be able to fashion one for your particular car and appropriate for your dog. Sometimes if you have more that one dog then you may find a duel crate useful to stop any dog arguments in the back of the car. If you only have the one dog, it stops it checking your food purchases. (I could have sworn I bought some lamb chops today)

Ideally, you need to purchase new ones as your dog grows but this is expensive. If you can only buy one then, buy one that will fit a fully-grown dog. This should be big enough that your dog can stand without head bowed. Length will be one and a half the dog’s length with its tail down. The width should be the height of the dog to its shoulders. The dog can see all around and they are brilliant for any problem solving if any were to arise. Standard ones usually have a gate at the end and one at the side so this allows choice of fitting into your car.

It is important that you focus on the need to teach your dog to use its crate of its own accord. In the house leave this open as its sleeping quarters and teach your dog this is its place of retreat and where it can feel quite safe. Teach your dog to go into its crate occasionally after a meal to sleep. Once settled in preparation for use in the car just try moments of locking the door if your dog barks to come out say ‘quiet’ or ignore it until it is quiet and then let the dog out to show that only being quiet opens the door. Placed outside with the gate open and with a sun screen on the top allows for a perfect cool place for your dog to sleep in the sun with the air able to blow through. Our cats love to sleep in their wicker travel cases for the same reason. Before they would disappear whenever they saw the basket as it usually meant a trip to the vet.

Never treat crates like a cage or any type of dog bed as a punishment box like shouting ‘get in your bed’ as this will encourage your dog to wish to sleep somewhere else. Do not simply place your dog into it and lock the door expecting your dog to get use to it. It will in a fashion but it is cruel and likely to cause problems.

Training a dog to travel in a car does depend on the dog’s reaction. If it is not a keen traveler, you have to make car trips exciting and end with a reward like walking or other activities that your dog likes. If your dog always gets excited in the car and starts to bark incessantly we have to make trips to nowhere so there is no reward at the end of every trip. If your dog always wants to go out in the car as it does not want to be alone you have to teach it the delights of remaining at home. A dog given a juicy bone then taken on a short trip will want to get home as soon as possible. Some dogs will not get in a car and some will not get out. The old way to cure this was ether to yank the dog in or out of the car using a choker shouting, “get in” or “get out”. Thank goodness for more enlightenment times. We have cases where ordinarily docile pooches turn into the hound of the Baskervilles when they learn to start to guard the car. (Are all these problems making you wish to put the paper down and give up?)

It is not as bad as it would seem if we just remember to ask yourself what does a dog get out of whatever it is doing and break it down to a simple action to reaction solution. Guarding is from the first time your dog barks in fear as someone approaches your car and watch them walk away or flee. This rewards and each occasion reinforces to the dog its guarding abilities and it will just get worse as time goes by. The solution is to let people come up to your car with you there and just ignore the barking and eventually it will give up. If it barks when left in the car just start with short periods and then build it up. When you approach the car come from different directions so once out of sight they do not know where you have gone and so as in the wild they must just settle down and wait for your return. Try leaving them in the car at home with the tailgate open then they learn you cannot leave without them.

If dogs do not want to get in a car then find them a reason to want to jump in like a game or feed them in the back of the car. The reverse works for not getting out. If it gets out at home but not anywhere else then take its food with you and then it will get out or find a good game. Instead of issuing commands and thereby make getting out an issue why not just walk or run away and do something exciting at some distance away.

If your dog barks at you to let it out wait until it is quiet or if you have taught the speak command then say quiet and not let it out until it is. If your dog barks when you are getting near a place your dog likes just do not stop but go somewhere else. If you can see a dogs face when you drive right past where it thought it was going it is one of disbelief. If your dog barks whilst you are traveling find a quiet road and when the dog is barking, just stop and ignore the dog. Only when it is quiet do you set off again. Do not try this on the motorways. Remember do not reward bad or inappropriate behaviour.

Dogs will take to any form of travel given the right training but most more important is that your approach should be without showing any signs of concern. Trust in evolution that dogs are capable of being expert survivors.

Next week I have a 7-year-old staffy type dog that fiercely attacks all other dogs, defecates and urinates when restricted to the bedroom and will sit shaking in fear for no apparent reason. We will follow the dog through a behaviourist’s normal approach to these cures. (Not me I am just being nosy and need his bombproof dogs for this one.) If you have any questions or queries, please contact me.

teach your dog to love toys

One of the biggest challenges with caring for a dog is providing adequate daily physical and mental exercise. If a dog loves toys, it is often much easier to find games and training strategies to keep him entertained. For those of you out there that have a dog that doesn't like toys, this is for you.

How to Get Your Dog to Love Toys
You can increase the chances that your dog will like toys by following the suggestions found here. You can practice these strategies with any age dog, but an older dog might take some time before he shows any interest. Think of this strategy as an investment in your dog's future.

I adopted Trooper; one of my Collies, when he was two-years-old and it took him a long time before he became interested in toys. He is still not as toy-crazy as my other dogs that played with toys since they were puppies, but his increased interest gives me more ways to keep him interested in training, reward him and exercise him.

Here are some general suggestions for increasing interest in toys:

• Buy a variety of toys and see what your dog gravitates towards. Most dogs show some interest in toys that squeak, but you should experiment with hard rubber, soft rubber, cloth, furry, tennis balls, and the huge variety of styles that can be found at stores or online.
• Feed your dog occasionally out of Kongs or other stuffable toys. I consider these toys "food dispensers" and nothing else. If dogs play with these toys when they are empty, great, but that is just a bonus. If used correctly, these toys provide you a way to keep your dog occupied for hours.
• Put toys away when you are not training or actively using them to keep your dog occupied. Dogs definitely get bored with toys that they have access to all the time. Keep them novel and interesting.
• Keep an "outside only" toy that your dog loves to use for leash walking or other outside training exercises when you are competing against distractions. Reward your dog with the toy from your pocket when your dog walks nicely, looks away from a distraction on cue, or sits before greeting another dog.
• Learn how to safely Play Tug with your dog
• Show a lot of interest when your dog plays with toys. Start petting him, get excited, make all the fun START when he touches the toy!

Exercise: Increase Motivation to Play With Toys
Here is a really fun way for you to teach your dog to like toys more. You can do this exercise with any toy including a Frisbee, tennis ball, Kong or squeaky toy. Make sure you put all the toys away when you are not there to encourage your dog. You don't want him to get bored of it. It should be FUN when toys are around! One very important strategy is to do really short training sessions so your dog does not get bored. You might even just do this exercise for 1-2 minutes a couple times a day and put it away when you are not using it. You know you can increase the length of the sessions when your dog actively shows excitement when you bring it out.

• Have 10-20 pea-sized treats that your dog LOVES
• Hold the toy 1-2 inches away from your dog's nose
• As soon as your dog sniffs the toy, say, "Yes!" and give your dog a treat
• Move the toy to a new location, still only 1-2 inches from your dog's nose and repeat
• As your dog shows more reliability with his behavior, don't reward each touch, but every other or more
• Put the toy away BEFORE your dog gets bored. You want your dog to want to play with the toy because good things happen. If he gets bored, or gets sick of the treats, the motivation is decreased.

More Advanced

• As you get more reliable behaviors, then you can increase the expectations between rewards. You know you are ready for this stage when your dog is more motivated to interact with the toy. This might not happen for some time. Don't get frustrated, just focus on keeping your dog REALLY interested in the toy for short sessions. Eventually it will pay off.
• Move the toy around so your dog has to chase it to touch it
• Put it above your dog's head so he has to jump for it
• Wait until he grabs it before rewarding (this might happen sooner than this step, great!)
• Throw the toy and when he touches or mouths the toy, say,"Yes!" and give him a treat

Get more and more touches or grabs between rewards. Eventually your dog will just enjoy playing with the toy without the need to motivate with treats.

WAY TO CREATE A MOTIVATING TOY

Many times in agility training the need will arise to use a toy to motivate your dog to move on without you (example: teaching a "get out" or doing weave poles or any sequence of obstacles for a gamble). People will ofren lament that their dog is not "into" toys. Some dogs will not innately want to play with toys but you can create the desire within them with a little work on your part. If your dog is really motivated by food and has never shown any interest in toys, an option available to you is to take the motivating toy you have chosen to work with and simmer it in a pot of liver, or chicken broth to make it more attractive to your finicky hound. BE LEERY--if you choose to go this route, be very careful your dog is never given an opportunity to be alone with this wonderful smelling toy or THEY MAY EAT IT. 

Surgery to remove this from their gut will be neither pleasant nor cheap. The key to training old Rover to play with you and your toy is that you are SINCERELY interested in playing with your dog. If you are truly not having fun, your dog will quickly realize this and will be even more reluctant to join in. So be sure that you are both enjoying yourselves. Now let's begin!

• Choose a throwable toy--i.e. one that you can toss, but won't roll too much, like a tug rope, or a ball in a sock or a stuffed animal.
• Attach this toy to a light line, string or lead that is about 3 meters long.
• Put the toy in a drawer in the midst of your living area--example, in the kitchen or somewhere else that is easily accessible at all times.
• Before each meal start to act a bit loony. While saying really fun things to your dog (like "oh no", "what is it", "do you want this", "where's your toy", etc.) walk, dance, skip...basically act goofy while you make your way over to the special drawer.
• S-l-o-w-l-y open up the drawer while continuing to say nutty things to your dog.
• Stop talking momentarily (a pause for effect) and then pull the toy out of the drawer, like you just unexpectedly came across a $50 bill and run with it into the next room.
• Swing the toy above the ground while acting nutty to show the dog what a great time you are having with this fun toy.
• Dance around for a few more seconds and then toss the toy out like a lure on the end of a fishing pole.
• Drag it around but BE SURE THE DOG DOES NOT GET HIS MOUTH ON IT.
• This whole process should only take 1-2 minutes the first time you do it.
• End your fun game, which didn't include your poor dog, by running ack to the drawer, yhour toy in tow snatching it up and quickly putting it back in the drawer with a phrase like "oh no, it's gone".
• You may then proceed about your regular routine as if nothing out of the ordinary just happened.
• Re-enact this bizarre performance 2-3 times a day. After the second day, allow the dog to get his mouth on the toy if he is really keen--but only for a few seconds. Pull on the line to try and steal it from him. Once you get it away (be sure you are taking it from him in a very informal, fun way), play with it a little more by yourself before quickly putting the toy away.
• Gradually progress, letting him play with you and the toy (tog of war style) a little more each time until you have a dog who loves to see the toy come out.
• Do not allow him to play with this toy at any other time except during this routine and, when he is ready, at agility class.
• Ideally, you should remove any other toys that are lying around the house during this time. Leave out only things your dog can lie down and chew on by himself, such as his chew bones.
• Be sure during this training/play session that you never give your dog any sort of verbal for anything he might do.
• Before you know it you will have a dog who is as nutty about this toy as you apparently have been!
• This method works particularly well on new puppies.

Dog Toys Ideas

Dog toys are best companions for your furry friends. They help them pass their time while alone and thus are quite instrumental in their physical and mental fitness. Unlike cats, dogs are more compromising when it comes to dog toys and are always ready to explore everything given to them for 'playing'. Toys for dogs must be safe for them and should be chosen according to their size, activity level, preferences and the environment around the dog. Their enthusiasm can be a key to how much they liked a particular toy. Be alert enough to keep your dog away from anything that might be ingested and keep things like string, ribbon, rubber bands, children's toys and pantyhose away from their reach and out of their sight.

Toy size is determined by the size of the dog. Too small toys and balls that can easily be swallowed may become a choking hazard for your dog. Toys that are not dog-proof and have removing ribbons; strings or parts that could be chewed upon are dangerous. Toys that are worn and torn or are about to break should be discarded. Toys made of rawhide should be checked by vet for their safety. Only allow dogs to play with toys consisting of hooves, pig's ears and rawhides under your supervision. Toys made of very hard rubber are safer and last longer. Similarly, squeaking toys may motivate you dog to ingest them and thus should only be played with, under your guidance.

Dog Training : dog nightmares

Question

QUESTION: My normally friendly 5 month old mixed breed dog has nightmares at times, and he is getting very large! He just woke from a nightmare and ran at my husband, growling in a very protective, aggressive way, and only stopped upon hearing us call his name to calm him down. Acted chagrinned, apologized , and promptly went back to sleep. My husband is not especially keen on aggressive dogs (who is?), and is not comfortable at ALL with this behavior. Any ideas? The pup is a rescue (but we got him 8 weeks ago....no bad experiences, traumas here, that we can think of). He's awoken sort of like this twice before, but when he was less intimidating. Kind of hallucinating-like. Can this be related in some way to some kind of hormone surge (puppy puberty?)

ANSWER: Is there a common trigger for all 3 incidents? Was someone walking by his bed, or was he possibly startled out of sleep by a loud noise? Let me know if this is the case and I can offer suggestions to help.

However, if he's waking himself out of a sound sleep with no outside stimulus that's apparent, I would highly recommend you get him to a vet ASAP. The "nightmare" you think you're seeing could actually be a seizure. There are are number of causes of seizures that can manifest in aggression and your vet may refer you to a neurologist. 

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: thank you. upon further thought, the one common thing is that upon waking, he "sees" something looming, and out of place. there were piles of materials placed over my husbands prone head when the dog awoke, and it seems to be THOSE that he (the dog) was aggresive towards. Another time, it was a stuffed christmas thingy, placed high on a wardrobe, and he did the same thing, ....growling and barking, all puffed up, at the stuffed snowman...it took taking it down, introducing him to it, letting him touch it and sniff it, to calm him down. my husband thinks he may have some trouble with his vision, i will be taking him to a vet to have that checked out. thanks for your input, elena

About Skyline's Dog Agility Classes:

Agility is one of the fastest growing dog sports - you may have seen it featured on television. Needless to say, nothing is ever as easy as the pro’s make it look, but agility training is a great way for you and your dog to work together as a team. It may be one of the only times each week that you and your dog get to spend one-on-one with each other. Yes, it is fun to learn the obstacles but the desire to want to work and learn with your dog is the key.

Our classes are small and each team works at their individual pace. All training is positive with the use of many rewards such as food and toys, no choke chains or corrections. The aim of the class is for you and your dog to have fun together, this is not “puppy playtime” between dogs.

FAQ:

1) Do I need to have done obedience before doing agility?

2) Will my dog be off-leash?

3) What makes me the most interesting thing to my dog?

4) How old does my dog need to be to start agility?

5) Is agility class about playing with other dogs?

6) Do I have to want to compete in agility to participate in classes? 

7) Is agility easy?

8) Do I need to practice at home?

9) My dog is very nervous, is agility suitable for her?

10) My dog does not like other dogs, can he do agility?

11) My dog does not like strangers touching it or coming near them, can he do agility? 

12) How fast will my dog progress?

Do I need to have done obedience before doing agility?

Although you do not need to have attended a formal class you do need some basic skills. Your dog should understand commands for sit, down, stay and come. He need not be 100% reliable but this is a good place to start.

Will my dog be off-leash?

YES. Only one dog is off-leash in class at a time. It is important that your dog has a good “come” command as he may be distracted and want to run over to other dogs. YOU must be more interesting to your dog than all the other dogs in class.

What makes me the most interesting thing to my dog?

Now is the time to find out. Keep a really favorite food just for training e.g. cheese, hot dogs, bologna. Try a favorite toy to tug with. Make really exciting noises. Practice, practice, practice.

How old does my dog need to be to start agility?

Dogs can start agility at any age but the class must be tailored to the age of the dog. Young puppies can learn many important skills for agility without being introduced to any of the obstacles. Your dog needs to be physically developed to jump & weave and mentally developed to understand the obedience skills already discussed – this age will be different for every dog. Older dogs need to be physically healthy. Yes, an old dog can learn new tricks.

Is agility class about playing with other dogs?

NO. Agility class is for you and your dog to play and learn together. Your dog should feel that YOU are much more exciting than any other dog in the room. This is not a puppy play session.

Do I have to want to compete in agility to participate in classes?

NO. Most students start agility classes just to have fun with their dogs. Some get bitten by the bug and go on to compete.

Is agility easy?

NO but learning can be fun. It is not just a question of telling your dog to jump, do you know how to communicate with your dog? Performing each obstacle is not the most difficult thing to learn but how to communicate with your partner is much tougher. Your instructor will teach you how to be a team. Yes, it is difficult at times that is why we use lots of food rewards to help your dog. Yes, it can get frustrating and that is when it is time to stop and go and play with your dog.

Do I need to practice at home?

The more you can practice what your learn in class, the faster you will improve. Many skills do not require equipment, especially improving your obedience commands. Some things can also be taught using items that you have around the house, your instructor will tell you about this.

My dog is very nervous, is agility suitable for her?

Agility can be a great way to socialize a dog. It introduces them to a new environment, new dogs and people, different noises and objects. It is very important to only progress at the speed of your dog, this dog will take longer to get it’s confidence. You may even want to repeat the initial beginner class to overcome your dogs fears.

My dog does not like other dogs, can he do agility?

A class situation is not appropriate. You should seek the services of a qualified behavior specialist to evaluate your dog. Your dog may be able to do private lessons.

My dog does not like strangers touching it or coming near them, can he do agility?

In training, the instructor will need to hold your dog to help it learn so it must be friendly to strangers. You should seek the services of a qualified behavior specialist to evaluate your dog.

How fast will my dog progress?

That depends on many things and will vary from team to team. The speed of your progress does not matter. What is important is learning the fundamental skills at the beginning properly. Once you have trained your dog to make “mistakes”, it is very hard to go back and “fix” them. Remember, your instructor probably made those same “mistakes” with the very first dog they trained so learn from their mistakes!