Search in this site

Showing posts with label Infor about dogs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Infor about dogs. Show all posts

11/23/12

Top 10 Most Elite Dog Breeds

Nowadays there are few things a person can truly count on. Relationships end, careers change, your favorite restaurants fall victim to the health department. Through this whirlwind of uncertainty, one thing remains steadfast; a man’s best friend. For most people, dogs serve as a companion while jogging through the park, or for some people they are almost like a member of the family.

Even fewer people, however, are dog connoisseurs that are willing to pay out the ass for rare breeds of dogs. Most of us, even dog-lovers, consider this to be a ridiculous way to spend money. But, if you have the money, its you fortune to burn through right? The following is the list of the most expensive dog breeds that have fetched some of the most absurdly high collar prices in international auctions”

10. Bearded Collie

The Bearded Collie is ideal for the adventurous Elite. Once bred as Scottish shepherds, this dog prefers to spend his time outdoors. Averaging 60 lbs. this family- friendly breed has become an American favorite since its first appearance in 1967. This breed is known for having an independent personality and thriving in the presence of people. The Bearded Collie has a tendency to display its herding pedigree in the home by trying to herd family members together.
Collar Price: $2,500

9. Pharaoh Hound

This breed is the closest any of us will come to seeing an actual Pharaoh. Tracing its roots back to 4000 B.C in Ancient Egypt, the Pharaoh Hound is the oldest domesticated dog breed. This breed is recognized for its unique ability to blush when excited; its nose and ears turn a deep shade of rose. The Pharaoh Hound requires daily exercise, and has an acute sense of sight and sound.
Collar Price: $4,500

8. Tibetan Mastiff

First imported to the United States in the 1970’s, the Tibetan Mastiff is a loyal, calm, and loving house pet. Hailing from the Himalayan Mountains in Tibet, this breed can reach up to 200 lbs. Although it is not generally the most expensive dog breed, the most expensive dog ever sold was the Tibetan Mastiff for a price of $1.5 million.
Collar Price: $4,000

7. Rottweiler

Never judge a book by its cover. The Rottweiler has a reputation for being an aggressive dog with a powerful, dangerous body. On the contrary they are very loyal dogs that tend to risk their safety for any member of their family. They are ideal guard dogs who are extremely protective of their owners. This breed is truly a man’s best friend.

Collar Price: $5,000

6. Chow Chow

The Chow Chow, known for its distinct blue tongue, come it at No. 5. Don’t be fooled by its fluffy exterior, this breed has an extremely dominant personality. Therefore, it needs a dominant owner who is firm yet gentle. Averaging about 70 lbs. this breed has a tendency to snore loudly, so they are not advised for light sleepers.
Collar Price: $6,000

5. English Bulldog

As classic to Britain as the Queen, the English bulldog fills the No.4 slot. Commonly referred to as the gentlest breed in the world, the English Bulldog is the ideal house pet. They are an indoor breed that does not do well in hot climates (air conditioning required).
Collar Price: $5,000

4. Samoyed


Kicking off the top three is the Siberian Samoyed. This thick haired beauty is known for being playful and social. As many things from England are, this breed is considered highly intelligent. Due to its thick luxurious coat, this breed will require more extensive grooming than its owner. Averaging about 65 lbs. the Samoyed is the perfect easy-going dog for its equally enthusiastic owner.

Collar Price: $8,000

3. Cavalier Kings Charles Spaniel

This tri-colored breed is known for its loving personality shown by its endless tail wagging. On average, this breed weighs in at around 15 lbs. However, like most of us, they tend to gain weight easily so daily exercise is a must. The Cavalier Kings Charles Spaniel is fit for just that, a King.

Collar Price: $10,000

2. German Shepherd

Presenting the breed with the most buck for its bark; the German Shepherd. This dog can be trained as a drug sniffer, rescue dog, a helping aid for the visually impaired, and can certainly ward of your creepy neighbors. German Shepherds require a lot of exercise and can handle strenuous activity. It is ideal for their owner to be the leader of the pack, just as they are.
Collar Price: $8,000

1. Red Tibetan Mastiff


Genghis Khan had one, legend says. So did the Buddha. And now, the prized red Tibetan mastiff, thought to be one of the world’s oldest and most venerable breeds, has another distinction: One of the massive, fluffy dogs has become the most expensive dog ever sold. An 11-month old pup named Big Splash (“Hong Dong” in Chinese) recently sold in the Chinese city of Qingdao for 10 million yuan — about $1.5 million in U.S. dollars. The 3-foot-tall, 180-pound dog is one of a breed that has been around since time immemorial. Tibetan mastiffs are said to have guarded nomad camps and monasteries, and are rarely seen outside of Tibet.

World’s Largest Dog Breeds

Large dogs can bring lots of fun and joy to a household, and kids especially love them. Despite their size, these “gentle giants” are generally loyal, well-tempered and good-natured creatures. If you are considering a large dog, here are several dog breeds consistently found in the top “biggest dogs” lists, measured by weight, height, and length.
Fun Fact!

A Great Dane currently holds the record for World’s Tallest Living Dog and Tallest Dog Ever.

Now, onto the list!

1. English Mastiff

According to the American Kennel Club, the largest breed of dog is the English Mastiff, also known as the Old English Mastiff. Mastiffs are considered the heaviest dog breed, but not necessarily the tallest. They can weigh anywhere from 110 lbs to 343 lbs. The height of a mastiff can range from 25 inches at the shoulder to 36 inches.


Zorba, an English Mastiff, went broke records as the heaviest and tallest dog ever in 1989, with a weight of 343 lbs. Zorba measured over 8 feet from nose to tail and was said to be about the size of a small donkey. Currently,Hercules, a 282-lbs English mastiff with a 38-inch neck, cinched the record in 2001 for World’s Heaviest Dog.

2. Neapolitan Mastiff

Neapolitan Mastiffs are fearless and extremely protective companions. They measure approximately 26 to 31 inches at the withers. Usually weighing about 170 lbs, Neapolitan Mastiffs can also reach up to 200 lbs.

3. Irish Wolfhound

Irish Wolfhounds are said to be the tallest dog breed. Historically, the Irish Wolfhound’s astonishing size, speed, and intelligence made them ideal animals for hunting wolves and boars, though they are quite docile and friendly in nature. With a robust and muscular build, males can attain the stature of a small pony. The Irish Wolfhound can reach up to 7 feet tall when standing on its hind legs and weigh 90 to 150 lbs.


4. Great Dane

Great Danes are considered the second-tallest dog after Irish Wolfhounds. However, from year to year it seems the title of Tallest Dog, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, is held by a Great Dane.

Giant George currently holds the record for World’s Tallest Living Dog and Tallest Dog Ever. George is a 250-pound blue Great Dane from Arizona. He stands 3 feet, 7 inches tall from paw to shoulder. Giant George—who even has his own website—consumes 110 lbs of food each month. He also sleeps on his own queen-sized bed inside the house.

5. St. Bernard

Known for its bravery and aptitude in alpine rescue missions, the average weight of a St. Bernard is between 140 and 220 lbs, and the approximate height is about 27½ inches to 35½ inches. A St. Bernard named Benedictineholds the world record for the Heaviest Dog Ever. Benedictine, who displaced Zorba as the heaviest dog of all time, is said to have weighed 357 lbs.


6. Newfoundland

The Newfoundland is thought to be the strongest of any dog breed, even beating some characteristics of the Great Dane, Mastiff and Irish Wolfhound. Some Newfoundland dogs have been known to weigh over 200 lbs. The largest Newfoundland on record weighed 260 lbs and measured over 6 feet from nose to tail.

7. Leonberger

Deriving its name from the city of Leonberg in south-west Germany, according to legend the Leonberger was bred as a “symbolic dog: that would mimic the lion in the town crest. These proud and self-disciplined animals stand 28 to 31.5 inches tall and weigh between 120 to 170 lbs.

8. Anatolian Shepherd

The Anatolian Shepherd Dog is a muscular breed with a thick neck and broad head, commonly used for guarding sheep from wolves, bears, jackals, and even cheetahs. It stands 29 to 36 inches and weighs between 90 and 150 pounds.

9. Dogue de Bordeaux (French Mastiff)

The Dogue de Bordeaux is said to have the largest head in the canine world in proportion to the rest of the body. The average Dogue de Bordeaux measures 23 to 30 inches, and weighs 120 to 145 pounds.

It is important that big dogs get outdoors as much as possible—at least two long walks a day—as their energy requirement can be 25 percent higher than that of small indoor dogs. All that spent energy will require a hefty amount of food to keep your hungry companion fit and healthy, but it is recommended you give your large dog three smaller meals, rather than one large one. This will prevent overeating, as bloat is the number two killer of large dogs after cancer.

Also, know that large dogs are prone to bone and joint problems, and diseases like arthritis, hip dysplasia, and obesity. So before making any final decisions, ensure you will be able to properly care for your new furry friend.

3-foot-7-inch Great Dane world's tallest dog


Guinness


This photo released by Guinness World Records shows Giant George, a Great Dane from Tucson, Ariz., stands 3 feet, 7 inches tall from paw to shoulder, which is three-quarters of an inch taller than his closest rival, Titan, a white Great Dane from San Diego. Sitting under Giant George is owner David Nasser.


A 250-pound blue Great Dane from Arizona gives new meaning to the term "big dog."

Guinness World Records says Giant George from Tucson is the tallest dog ever on record.

Guinness said today that he stands 3 feet, 7 inches tall from paw to shoulder, which is three-quarters of an inch taller than his closest rival - Titan, a white Great Dane from San Diego.

The 4-year-old Titan took the title of world's tallest dog in 2009 after Gibson, a Great Dane from Grass Valley, Calif., died of bone cancer.

Guinness officials say there were conflicting reports about Giant George's height, so they sent a judge to verify it.

11/19/12

First night home with puppy

The first night home with your new puppy can be a trying experience for both of you. It’s the first time your puppy has spent the night away from his mother and littermates. Because dogs are pack animals, your puppy knows instinctively that being separated from the pack is dangerous. Whining and crying at night is your puppy’s way of calling for his pack to find him. Of course it does nothing to comfort you.

With a little preparation and patience, you can make the most of the first night with your puppy.

What to do before bedtime

Take up any food or water after six or seven o’clock to make sure your puppy is running on empty when it’s time to sleep. Otherwise, you’ll be making trips to the bathroom all night, or worse, your puppy will eliminate in the house.

Shortly before you go to bed, spend some time playing with your puppy. You want him to be tired enough to sleep soundly. Definitely don’t let him nap within an hour or two of bedtime or else your puppy will be ready to play when you’re ready to sleep.

Just before bed, take your puppy outside to his soiling area and wait for him to go. When he does praise him and bring him back inside. This reinforces good behavior and begins the house training process.

Where puppy should sleep

If possible, you should let your puppy sleep in your bedroom to reduce the chances of whining or crying at night. Also, the constant contact throughout the night will help your puppy adjust to you and establish you as pack leader. One note of caution: Don’t let the puppy sleep in the bed with you. He’ll eventually expect to be allowed in the bed, and it can lead to numerous behavioral problems as your puppy grows.

If you or the breeder have started crate training, you should put the crate in your room and use that to confine him while he sleeps. If your puppy isn’t used to a crate, then tether him to your bed or close by and put down an old blanket or sheet. Keep the tether short. Puppies usually won’t soil the area where they sleep, but if he has the opportunity to wander he may get up and go during the night.

As a last resort, you can keep your new puppy somewhere other than your bedroom. Make sure you puppy proof your house first and put a sweatshirt or other article of your clothing with him for your scent. A ticking clock or a radio set to a low volume can also help soothe a puppy the first night home. You should check on him throughout the night for bathroom breaks.

Stop puppy crying at night

If and when your puppy starts crying at night, you need to decide if he has to go to the bathroom or if he’s looking for attention. If he’s been quiet for a few hours and suddenly starts to cry or whine, he may need to go out. Puppies have small bladders, so you’ll likely have to take him out at least once during the night. A good rule of thumb is to add one to your puppy’s age in months and that’s generally how long he can go without a trip outside. So a two-month-old puppy can wait three hours. That means your puppy will probably need to go out at least twice during the night.

If your puppy is crying and you’re sure it’s not for need of relieving himself, reach down and soothe him a little. Don’t be too doting or coddle your puppy. This will only reinforce the behavior and he’ll cry even more. If he continues to whine, a gruff “Quiet” and a quick, but gentle, shake by the scruff should settle the matter. If all else fails, ignore him. Tough love may be difficult, but eventually your puppy will learn that crying at night gets him nowhere. The more persistent you are in your approach, the quicker the situation will be resolved. If you’re stern one minute and sympathetic the next, your puppy will only be confused and his behavior will continue.
In the morning

Get up right away and take your puppy outside to his soiling area. Carry him. Don’t let him walk there or he may be tempted to go before he gets outside. Let him empty everything out, and praise him when he’s finished.

As with any new baby, you may not get much sleep the first night with puppy. If you’re patient and understanding, your puppy will learn what you expect of him when it’s time to sleep. You both should wake up rested and ready for the day after a few nights together.

How long does a normal puppy sleep?

The amount of time spent napping varies fromdog to dog and depends on the dog's age andpersonality. Counting little naps and longersnoozes, most puppies sleep from 18 to 20 hoursa day. As your puppy ages, he will sleep less.Adult dogs sleep about fourteen hours a day.

The various breeds of dogs also seem to have different sleep

requirements. Some very large breeds of dogs, like Newfoundlands,Saint Bernards, and mastiffs, often spend a great deal of their lives sleeping – perhaps up to sixteen or even eighteenhours a day even as adults.


How to Choose the Right Dog for You

Are you thinking of getting a dog? Choosing to bring a new dog into your life is a major decision. Be sure you are ready for a dogbefore you start the process. It is also essential that you understand the cost of dog ownership. If you have decided that the time is right, congratulations! Now it is time to figure out what type of dog is right for you. There are several factors to consider before choosing a dog. Most importantly, examine your current lifestyle and consider what adjustments you are willing to make for a dog. Look at the needs of your family – especially if you have children or other pets. People with allergies, or those who prefer low-shedding dogs, might want to look into hypoallergenic dog breeds. Next, think about the ideal size, energy level and age of your new dog. Then, determine where to get your new dog. Just remember that getting a dog requires a firm commitment to responsible dog ownership. Here are some tips to help you choose the best dog for you and your family.

Size

You may already know you want a little lap dog that you can carry around. Or, you might have your heart set on a large or giant dog breed. If you cannot decide, then perhaps a medium sized dog is a good choice.


Remember that some small dogs are delicate and vulnerable. Being stepped on or mishandled can cause serious injury. Also, little dogs can be much more sensitive to colder temperatures, so be ready to help keep them warm. Don’t forget that small dogs need obedience training too! Some little dogs can develop “tough dog” attitudes, seemingly to compensate for their small size. Be sure you are prepared for this possibility.

Very large dogs need a bit more space to move around. Big, happy dogs with long, whip-like tails need "wagging space" to avoid tail injury or damage to household objects. Another consideration is expense: the larger the dog, the more expensive things like dog food, dog supplies and medical treatments become. Training is also a key factor here. If you get a large or giant breed puppy that is allowed to act like a lap dog when young, he will grow up to walk all over you – literally!

Activity Level

You probably already know that some dogs have more energy than others. A dog’s activity level is often determined by breed, but it does not mean you can rely on breed alone to determine how energetic your dog could become. Every dog needs routine exercise, regardless of breed or size, so make sure you can to provide this. If you know you can not commit to more than one or two casual walks per day, then you will probably be better off with a lower energy dog, such as a Basset Hound. If you are looking for a dog that can be a jogging partner, agility competitor or “disc dog,” consider a breed like the Border Collie.

Be willing to adjust the amount of exercise and attention you give your dog if necessary. A dog that is barking constantly, digging up your yard, destroying your home, or acting out in some other way is most likely in need of extra activities. Manybehavior problems are the result of excess energy. Unfortunately, many dogs are given up or even euthanized because of a behavior problem that could have easily been avoided with the proper amount of exercise and attention.

Physical Maintenance

Your dog’s appearance has a lot to do with his maintenance needs. All dogs need basic grooming, but certain types need more based on the type of hair coat. If you get a dog with hair that keeps growing, then advanced routine grooming is essential. Most short haired, smooth-coated dogs are major shedders, so be prepared to do some extra cleaning up. Somegrooming tools can help reduce shedding. Be aware that dogs with long, floppy ears are more prone to ear infections and require frequent thorough ear cleanings. In addition, certain types of dogs can do a lot of drooling. Many owners of Mastiffs, Bloodhounds and similar dogs actually carry a “slobber cloth” with them to wipe the drool. If they shake their heads – watch out!

Age

Puppies require the greatest amount of training and attention, especially over the first six months. Be prepared to dedicate much of your time to housebreaking and raising your new puppy. You dog will likely have plenty of accidents in the house and will probably chew your furniture and personal belongings. These problems will gradually resolve with dedicated training, but patience is a must. You should also be aware that your puppy might grow up to be different then you expected, especially if you adopt a mixed-breed dog. This is not necessarily a bad thing, just something to keep in mind.

Adult dogs can be an excellent choice. An adult might be a better choice if you want to have a good idea of the true energy level, attitude, and temperament of your new dog. However, just because the dog is an adult does not mean he is trained, so you should still expect some degree of dedicated training at first. Fortunately, many adult dogs have been trained and socialized to some degree and can easily adjust to their new lives in their forever homes.

Senior dogs should not be forgotten! Welcoming a senior dog into your home can be a wonderful way to bring joy to the golden years of a dog. Unfortunately, senior dogs are less likely to be adopted and often end up living out their lives in shelters or being euthanized. A senior dog can make a wonderful companion if you are looking for a lower energy dog. However, it is important to know that your senior dog needs special attention, more frequent veterinary check-ups and is more likely to develop heath problems that cost time and money to address. Unlike a puppy or adult dog, you must know that you will not have as many years with your senior dog. If you are willing to accept the responsibilities, consider adopting a senior dog. It can be one of the most compassionate things you can do for these precious creatures.

Purebred or Mixed-Breed Dog?

Purebred dogs are undeniably popular. Many people are attracted to a specific dog breed for various reasons. Perhaps you were raised around the breed or have spent a lot of time with the breed in your life. Maybe you really love the way a certain breed looks and acts. Or, you might feel the breed is right for you based upon what you have read or heard about the breed. If you want a purebred dog, be sure you thoroughly research the breed. Determine if you are willing to take on potential challenges with temperament, grooming needs and health problems. Make sure the breed will fit in with your family and lifestyle – including other dogs.

Mixed breed dogs can become wonderful additions to your world. The combination of two or more dog breeds can often balance out their personalities and physical characteristics. Just be sure to expect the unexpected, especially if you adopt a “pound puppy.” There is no way of knowing exactly how your puppy will look when grown up, and you cannot really predict health problems. However, many experts believe that mixed-breed dogs end up with fewer health problems than purebred dogs. Overall they tend to be good-natured and intelligent. Plus, adopting a mixed-breed dog usually means you are saving that dog from euthanasia or a lonely shelter life!

Where to Find Your New Dog

Once you have narrowed down your options, it is time to start looking for your new dog. There are many options out there, but some are better than others. Research the organization or person from whom you will get your new dog to determine if they are reputable. Then, go see the location where the dogs are kept to make sure your new dog comes from a healthy environment. Please consider dog adoption first. Here are some sources to help get you started.
Animal Shelters: These can be great places to look for a new dog. Though lots of dogs in shelters are mixed-breed dogs, many times you can even find a purebred dog! Shelter dogs often have previous training and socialization, though others may unfortunately come from troubled backgrounds. Talk to the shelter staff members and volunteers about each dog you are considering to get an idea of background and personality. You can also try searching online adoption sites like Petfinder.com.
Rescue Organizations: Rescue groups are dedicated to finding the best families for homeless dogs, some are even devoted to specific dog breeds. Most rescue organizations keep their dogs in foster homes until they can find forever homes for them. These foster parents have usually forged a bond with the dogs and can tell you a lot about their history and personalities. Rescue organizations are typically very selective because they care so much about getting their dogs into the right homes, so be prepared to answer a lot of questions.
Reputable Breeders: If you choose to purchase a purebred dog, be certain you find a knowledgeable,experienced breeder with a good reputation – not abackyard breeder or puppy mill. Ask your vet and other dog owners for referrals, or get a referral from a rescue organization recommended by a national kennel club, such as the AKC Breeder Referral Contacts. A responsible breeder should be willing to show you the premises and tell you about the parents’ histories. Be certain that the breeder’s home or kennel is clean and odor-free. The adult dogs and puppies should appear healthy and lively. If you are not comfortable with the breeder, do not purchase a puppy.

Precautionary Notes

Please, do not purchase your dog from a pet store. Tragically, these dogs are often frompuppy mills. Though you might be “saving” the dog from poor conditions, you are supporting a terrible industry that should be put to an end. Some online kennels are actually puppy mills too, so do your research before doing business with an online kennel. Ideally, you should be able to visit the kennel first.

Be careful about getting your dog through newspaper ads and signs with statements like “free to a good home.” Unfortunately, these dogs might come from poor conditions and irresponsible dog owners. Not only might you end up with an unhealthy dog, you may also be encouraging inconsiderate people who do not spay and neuter their pets.

Making Your Final Decision

Once you think you have found the right dog, make sure he appears healthy. He should be bright eyed and lively with a shiny coat and good appetite. If the puppy or dog has special needs of some kind (usually due to physical or temperament issues), make sure you are prepared to handle them. Be aware that dogs or puppies that show signs of aggression, fear or other behavior problems will likely need extra training and attention from you. It does not mean that the dog is any less worthy of a good home, but it is best that you know what you are getting into. It is certainly not good for anyone if you have to return your new dog or puppy to the breeder, shelter or rescue group.

Before bringing your new dog home, you should obtain a new dog/puppy packet from the breeder or adoption group that contains general information about caring for your new dog. Make sure your home is prepared for a new dog. In addition, be sure to bring your new dog to a vet for a general examination right away. If you adopted your dog, know what to expect for the first few weeks. If you are getting a puppy, learn all about proper puppy care.

Congratulations on your new dog - I am sure you and your dog will enjoy a long, happy life together!

11/16/12

Make Homemade Dog Repellent

Man's best friend may be great for companionship, but it wreaks havoc on gardens and upholstery. Whatever the reasons you want to keep a dog away, there are many dog repellants that are easy and cheap to make at home. All of the repellents listed below are 100 percent safe for dogs and the environment.
Citrus Dogs find the smell of citrus horrendous. You can protect your garden by placing slices of oranges or lemons throughout the flowerbed. To keep your dog off of your furniture, place a glass of lemon water on a nearby table or spray your furniture with the mixture

Cayenne Peppers Though cayenne peppers will not harm your dog, it will irritate its eyes, nose and throat. To keep your dog out of your flowerbed, grind a mixture of black pepper and cayenne pepper, and sprinkle it throughout your garden. A good trick for getting your dog to avoid the upholstery is to sprinkle cayenne pepper in your potpourri or leave a bowl of ornamental chilies next to the sofa.

Vinegar Dogs strongly dislike the odor of . Vinegar can be potentially dangerous for plants, so don't spray vinegar in your garden. Instead, douse biodegradable coffee filters in white vinegar and allow them to dry in the sun. Once completely dried, cut the filters into thin strips about the length of a toothpick. Spreading the strips throughout your garden will repel your dog and allow your flowers to thrive .

Ammonia Ammonia is the most effective dog repellent. To keep dogs off your furniture, clean your floors with an ammonia-based solution. For the garden, you can use the same method mentioned above for vinegar, replacing the vinegar with ammonia. Never pour or spray ammonia onto your lawn or flowers, because it could kill them

Dog Repellents

How to Keep Dogs Away From Yards

The need for effective dog repellents is clear to all those long-suffering folks who, although not dog owners, are nonetheless forced to deal with the unpleasant task of dog waste disposal. Below I consider some of the best approaches known to keep dogs away from yards, without harming them in any way. Broadly speaking, we can label all of these diverse approaches as "dog repellents," since they are all designed to repel unwanted canine intruders from a specific area. But I'll also provide examples of commercial products more narrowly associated with that label, namely, products that come in a can and are sprinkled or sprayed on the ground to keep dogs away.

Dog Repellents Applied as Powders, Granules or Sprays

One problem with the products that are sprinkled or sprayed on the ground is that you will have to reapply them after a rain and/or as the strength of their odor diminishes over time. On the upside, though, two examples in this class are available right off the kitchen shelf, saving you a trip to the home improvement center:
  1. Ammonia
  2. Vinegar
Note, however, that neither ammonia nor vinegar should be sprayed directly onto any lawn grass or landscape plants that you care about, as sufficient amounts of them will kill vegetation. In fact, I discuss vinegar as a weed killer elsewhere. Ammonia and vinegar, then, can be thought of as dog repellents to use around the perimeter of your property, forming a stinky, invisible barrier that keeps dogs away.
Dogs also dislike the smell of citrus, leading some homeowners to use orange, grapefruit or lemon peels as dog repellents. While these fruit peels are natural and easy to obtain, their use will probably have to be restricted to backyard garden areas, where they are out of public view.

Commercial Dog Repellents

Get Away® dog repellent makes use of the fact that dogs dislike the smell of citrus. But unlike with orange peels, sprinkling Get Away in the front yard won't create an eyesore. This dog repellent comes in both granule and spray form.
Critter Ridder® is an organic dog repellent put out by the same brain trust behind Havahart traps. Available in both granules and sprays, Critter Ridder works as a dog repellent because it gives off a smell of black pepper, which our canine friends find offensive.
Liquid Fence® works on a different principle. This dog repellent depends on the fact that dogs seek areas with familiar smells in which to do their business. Liquid Fence masks those smells. So instead of repulsing dogs with offensive odors, this product removes the welcome mat, so to speak, thereby discouraging them from conducting "business as usual."

Gadgets That Act as Dog Repellents

Unlike dog repellents that come in powder, granule or spray form, no re-application is required with gadgets like Scarecrow Sprinklers. Just hook one up to your garden hose and let its motion-activated mechanism do the work. Another advantage with this product is that there's no need to take separate control measures against each of the various types of pests with which your yard is challenged: Scarecrow Sprinklers® will repulse garden pests just as surely as they'll keep Fido away.
Yard Gard® is an electronic dog repellent. Like the Scarecrow Sprinkler, it is effective against other pests, as well. But unlike the Scarecrow Sprinkler, you have a choice:
  • Blast would-be pests 24/7
  • Or allow its motion-activated mechanism to alert it when pests approach
This dog repellent works by emitting sonic and ultrasonic sound waves that canines find offensive. Mount it on an outdoor storage shed, tree or fence.
Don't confuse Yard Gard with an underground dog fence: the former keeps dogs away, while the latter keeps them confined. Both emit sound waves that dogs dislike, but underground dog fences are used to keep your own dog from roaming off your property (similar principle, different purpose).
Of course, in addition to dog repellents, don't forget that one option for keeping dogs away from your property may be simply to erect a fence. However, the fence solution often isn't an option in urban areas, where you may have a grassy strip of public land that you have to maintain between the street and your own property border. Unfortunately, inconsiderate dog owners will walk their mutts on this strip and not pick up after them. Since you don't own this strip of land, you can't fence it off to keep dogs away. Thus the need for the dog repellents discussed above.

My old dog

As they age, our dogs often suffer a decline in functioning. Their memory, their ability to learn, their awareness and their senses of sight and hearing can all deteriorate. This deterioration can cause disturbances in their sleep-wake cycles, making them restless at night but sleepy during the day. It can increase their activity level (resulting, for example, in staring at objects, wandering aimlessly or vocalizing more) or decrease their activity level (leading to less self-care and poor appetite). It can make them forget previously learned cues (commands) or habits they once knew well, such as house training and coming when called. It can increase their anxiety and tendency to react aggressively. It can also change their social relationships with you and other pets in your home. Some pets may become more clingy and overdependent, while others become less interested in affection, petting or interaction. Understanding the changes your dog is undergoing can help you compassionately and effectively deal with behavior problems that may arise in your dog’s senior years.

Be sure to report all changes you see to your dog’s veterinarian. Don’t assume that your dog is “just getting old” and nothing can be done to help him. Many changes in behavior can be signs of treatable medical disorders (please see Ruling Out Specific Medical Problems on Page 2), and there are a variety of therapies that can comfort your dog and manage his symptoms, including any pain he might be experiencing.

In addition to seeking professional help from your veterinarian and an animal behavior expert (such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, CAAB or ACAAB) for the age-related behavior issues covered in this article, a key contributing factor to keeping your older dog healthy is to continue to play with him, exercise him and train him throughout his life. You will likely need to adapt play and exercise to his slower movements, reduced energy level, declining eyesight and hearing, and any medical conditions he may have. Talk to a Certified Professional Dog Trainer in your area (CPDT) for fun ways to teach your old dog new tricks. Patiently keeping in mind his slower learning curve, you can have fun sharpening up rusty behaviors he once learned and teaching him some new behaviors and tricks. A CPDT can also help you change your verbal cues to hand signals if your dog has lost his hearing and help you adjust your training for any physical impairments your dog may have developed. There are many ways to keep your older dog’s life interesting and stimulating that don’t require vigorous physical effort. Please see our article,Enriching Your Dog’s Life, for many fun ideas. Just as with humans, dogs need to use their brains and bodies to maintain their mental and physical fitness. As the saying goes, use it or lose it!

Behavior Changes in Aging Dogs

As they age, our dogs often suffer a decline in functioning. Their memory, their ability to learn, their awareness and their senses of sight and hearing can all deteriorate. This deterioration can cause disturbances in their sleep-wake cycles, making them restless at night but sleepy during the day. It can increase their activity level (resulting, for example, in staring at objects, wandering aimlessly or vocalizing more) or decrease their activity level (leading to less self-care and poor appetite). It can make them forget previously learned cues (commands) or habits they once knew well, such as house training and coming when called. It can increase their anxiety and tendency to react aggressively. It can also change their social relationships with you and other pets in your home. Some pets may become more clingy and overdependent, while others become less interested in affection, petting or interaction. Understanding the changes your dog is undergoing can help you compassionately and effectively deal with behavior problems that may arise in your dog’s senior years.

Be sure to report all changes you see to your dog’s veterinarian. Don’t assume that your dog is “just getting old” and nothing can be done to help him. Many changes in behavior can be signs of treatable medical disorders (please see Ruling Out Specific Medical Problems on Page 2), and there are a variety of therapies that can comfort your dog and manage his symptoms, including any pain he might be experiencing.

In addition to seeking professional help from your veterinarian and an animal behavior expert (such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, CAAB or ACAAB) for the age-related behavior issues covered in this article, a key contributing factor to keeping your older dog healthy is to continue to play with him, exercise him and train him throughout his life. You will likely need to adapt play and exercise to his slower movements, reduced energy level, declining eyesight and hearing, and any medical conditions he may have. Talk to a Certified Professional Dog Trainer in your area (CPDT) for fun ways to teach your old dog new tricks. Patiently keeping in mind his slower learning curve, you can have fun sharpening up rusty behaviors he once learned and teaching him some new behaviors and tricks. A CPDT can also help you change your verbal cues to hand signals if your dog has lost his hearing and help you adjust your training for any physical impairments your dog may have developed. There are many ways to keep your older dog’s life interesting and stimulating that don’t require vigorous physical effort. Please see our article,Enriching Your Dog’s Life, for many fun ideas. Just as with humans, dogs need to use their brains and bodies to maintain their mental and physical fitness. As the saying goes, use it or lose it!

Following is a list of possible changes and symptoms in your senior dog that could indicate cognitive dysfunction1.

Confusion/Spatial Disorientation
  • Gets lost in familiar locations
  • Goes to the wrong side of the door (where the hinge is)
  • Gets stuck and can’t navigate around or over obstacles
Relationships/Social Behavior
  • Less interested in petting, interactions, greeting people or other dogs, etc.
  • Needs constant contact, becomes overdependent and clingy
Activity-Increased or Repetitive
  • Stares, fixates on or snaps at objects
  • Paces or wanders about aimlessly
  • Licks you, family members or objects a lot
  • Vocalizes more
  • Eats more food or eats more quickly
Activity-Decreased, Apathetic
  • Explores less and responds less to things going on around him
  • Grooms himself less
  • Eats less
Anxiety/Increased Irritability
  • Seems restless or agitated
  • Is anxious about being separated from family members
  • Behaves more irritably in general

Sleep-Wake Cycles/Reversed Day-Night Schedule
  • Sleeps restlessly, awakens at night
  • Sleeps more during the day
Learning and Memory-House Soiling
  • Eliminates indoors in random locations or in view of you or family members
  • Eliminates indoors after returning from outside
  • Eliminates in sleeping areas (for example, in his crate or on the couch or floor)
  • Uses body language less (body postures and signals associated with feelings)
  • Develops incontinence (accidental release of bladder)
Learning and Memory-Work, Tasks, Cues
  • Demonstrates an impaired ability to work or perform tasks
  • Sometimes seems unable to recognize familiar people and pets
  • Shows decreased responsiveness to known cues for obedience, tricks, sports and games
  • Seems unable or slower to learn new tasks or cues
Ruling Out Other Causes for Your Dog’s Behavior
If your dog shows any of the symptoms or changes listed above, your first step is to take him to his veterinarian to determine whether there is a specific medical cause for his behavior. Any medical or degenerative illness that causes pain, discomfort or decreased mobility-such as arthritis, dental disease, hypothyroidism, cancer, impaired sight or hearing, urinary tract disease or Cushing’s disease-can lead to increased sensitivity and irritability, increased anxiety about being touched or approached, increased aggression (since your dog may choose to threaten and bite rather than move away), decreased responsiveness to your voice, reduced ability to adapt to change, and reduced ability to get to usual elimination areas.

If medical problems are ruled out, and if primary behavior problems unrelated to aging are ruled out (for example, problems that started years before your dog began aging or those that started in response to recent changes in his environment or family), then these behavioral signs are presumed to be due to the effects of aging on the brain and are diagnosed as “cognitive dysfunction syndrome.”

Treatment of Cognitive Dysfunction
The primary signs of cognitive dysfunction syndrome can be summarized with the acronym CRASH, which stands for:
  • Confusion/disorientation
  • Responsiveness/recognition decreases
  • Activity changes
  • Sleep-wake cycle disturbances
  • House training lapses
Cognitive dysfunction syndrome can be treated by your dog’s veterinarian with the drug selegiline hydrochloride (brand name Anipryl®). There are a number of other medications and supplements that you and your vet may consider as well. It’s most effective to combine drug therapy with behavioral treatment that’s based on the specific problems your dog is having.

Specific Geriatric Behavior Problems and Their Behavioral Treatment

Anxiety-Including Separation Anxiety

Some common concerns reported by guardians of aging dogs are increased sensitivity and irritability, increased fear of unfamiliar pets and people (sometimes accompanied by aggression), decreased tolerance of touch and restraint, increased following and desire for contact, and increased anxiety when left alone. Noise sensitivity from hearing loss can also make some dogs more anxious and vocal. Your own frustration and distress over your dog’s behavior can add to your dog’s anxiety as well.

If house soiling has become a problem, some guardians opt to crate their dogs when they’re not home. Unfortunately, confining a senior dog to a crate can raise his anxiety level if he’s never been crated or is no longer accustomed to it. To make things worse, if he can’t get comfortable in the crate, or if he can’t control his bowels or bladder, he’ll be even more anxious and may attempt to escape. In these cases, it may be the confinement, not the guardian’s departure, that causes anxiety.

If it’s the guardian’s departure and absence that causes a dog’s anxiety, it’s called separation anxiety. The cardinal indicators of separation anxiety are:
  • Predeparture anxiety: pacing, panting, salivating, hiding, trembling or depression as you prepare to leave
  • House soiling (or soiling the crate), destructiveness or vocalizing that occur soon after you leave the house
  • Destructiveness directed at exit points, like windows and doors, and house soiling while you’re gone
  • Refusal to eat when left alone (even if you leave your dog food, treats or a food-stuffed KONG® toy, he doesn’t eat at all when you’re gone, but does after you return)
The most important factor in diagnosing these behaviors as separation anxiety is that they occur only during your absence. If these behaviors occur while you or your family members are home, other issues may be causing them instead. For example, if your dog soils in the house both when you're gone and when you're home, you probably have a house training problem. The same is true of destructiveness. If destructive chewing happens when you're home, it's a training issue, not separation anxiety.

A distinct feature of geriatric (late-onset) separation anxiety is that it can manifest as nighttime anxiety, almost as if your dog views your sleeping as a form of separation. Your dog may keep you awake by pacing, panting and pawing at you, and demanding attention. This type of separation anxiety may indicate undiagnosed disease, and it can be relieved by treating the disease or, at minimum, relieving your dog’s pain or discomfort. A thorough examination by your dog’s veterinarian is crucial to determine whether there’s a medical basis for your dog’s anxiety.

Treatment for separation anxiety involves controlling any underlying medical problems and using a behavioral treatment called desensitization and counterconditioning (DSCC). Please see our article, Desensitization and Counterconditioning, for more information about the effective use of these treatments. Identifying and changing any of your own responses that might be aggravating your dog’s behavior is also helpful. In conjunction with behavioral treatment, pheromones and drugs can be used to reduce anxiety and improve your dog’s cognitive function. Please see our article, Separation Anxiety, for more detailed information on this disorder and its treatment.
Excessive Vocalization

Your senior dog’s vocalizing can become a problem if he does it too often or at inappropriate times, like when you’re sleeping. Anxious vocalizing is usually a plaintive howl or excessive whining. If your dog does it only when you’re gone, it could indicate separation anxiety. If he does it when you’re home, then you’ll need the help of a behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist to determine what’s causing your dog to vocalize so much.

Loss of hearing, cognitive dysfunction, central nervous system disorders and medical conditions can all contribute to your dog’s excessive vocalization. He might whine or howl if he feels the urge to eliminate more, if he’s overeating and wants you to give him more food, or if he’s in pain. If your dog has become more fearful and anxious, he might begin vocalizing at things that scare or stress him, like noises or visitors. Showing your own frustration or punishing your dog for vocalizing can also increase his anxiety and aggravate the problem.

Once any underlying medical problem and cognitive dysfunction are treated, behavioral treatment involves identifying and modifying any of your own responses that might be reinforcing or aggravating your dog’s behavior. For some dogs, training them to be quiet on cue and rewarding quiet behavior is effective. For other dogs, nonshock bark-control collars, such as the citronella collar, may be needed. Drug therapy may also help if your dog’s vocalizations are motivated by anxiety. Please see our article, Howling, for more information on the various causes and treatments for excessive vocalizing.

Restlessness / Waking at Night
Dogs who sleep more during the day can become more restless and active at night. Some dogs start overreacting to things they once ignored, like the garage door opening or the newspaper being delivered. Keeping a record can help you identify what triggers your dog’s nighttime activity.

Sensory changes, such as eyesight or hearing loss, can affect your dog’s depth of sleep. His sleep-wake cycles may be affected by cognitive dysfunction or other types of central nervous system disorders. Ask your dog’s veterinarian to do a complete examination to look for medical problems that could cause restlessness, discomfort or an increased need to eliminate. Any medical problems should be treated first, and then, if necessary, you can gently retrain your dog to reestablish normal sleeping and waking hours. Try increasing his daytime and evening activity by giving him frequent walks, playing his favorite games, practicing obedience or tricks, and giving him food-puzzle toys and bones to chew. Please see our articles,Enriching Your Dog’s Life and Exercise for Dogs, for ideas for keeping your dog well exercised, both physically and mentally. You can also ask his veterinarian about combining your retraining with drugs to induce sleep or, alternatively, drugs to keep your dog more active during the day.

House Soiling
As with all the behavior problems covered here, any number of medical problems can contribute to house soiling, including sensory decline, neuromuscular conditions that affect your dog’s mobility, brain tumors, cognitive dysfunction, endocrine system disorders, and any disorder that increases your dog’s frequency of elimination or decreases his bladder or bowel control.

If your dog soils in the house only when you’re gone and shows other signs of separation anxiety (please see above, Anxiety-Including Separation Anxiety), then he may be suffering from this disorder. Please see our article, Separation Anxiety, for detailed information on this problem and its treatment.

Since they’re often less adaptable to change, some older dogs might begin soiling in the house if there’s a change in their schedule, environment or household. Once your dog has used an indoor location to eliminate when you’re gone, that area can become established as a preferred spot, even if you’ve cleaned it thoroughly. It’s often necessary to have a complete behavior history taken by a qualified professional, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT), to determine the reason for your dog’s house soiling and design effective treatment. To find one of these experts in your area, please see our article,Finding Professional Help.

Once your dog’s medical issues have been identified and treated-for example, after his anxiety has been eased, his pain reduced or his incontinence controlled through medication-then you’ll need to reestablish proper house training with the same methods you used when he was a puppy. These methods include close supervision indoors, confinement in a crate or other small area away from previously soiled sites when you can’t closely supervise, and a regular, frequent schedule of trips outdoors with tasty rewards for outdoor elimination. You may need to adjust your schedule to accommodate your dog’s need for more frequent elimination in his senior years. If you can’t, consider hiring a dog walker or providing your dog with a place indoors to eliminate, such as newspapers, a dog litter box or potty pads. Please see our article, House Training Your Adult Dog, for detailed information about house retraining your dog.

Destructive Behavior

Just as with other behavior problems of senior dogs, the underlying cause of destructive behavior needs to be determined in order to provide effective treatment. Some destructive behaviors reported in senior dogs are pica (ingesting inedible objects); licking, sucking or chewing body parts, household objects or family members; and scratching and digging. Each of these may have a different cause, so a thorough medical evaluation combined with a behavioral history is necessary to determine a cause or causes for your dog’s behavior. For example, cognitive dysfunction might be considered in dogs with licking, chewing or pica. Treatment of underlying medical problems and cognitive dysfunction may resolve some problems but not others. If your dog is suffering from anxiety, phobia or fear of particular things (people, situations, objects, thunder, etc.), these issues need to be treated. Please see Fears and Phobias below for more information. Modifying your home and your dog’s environment can be helpful as well. Prevent access to sites where your dog’s destructiveness has occurred or might occur, and provide him with new, interesting toys to chew (or bones, rawhides, bully sticks, food-stuffed KONGs, etc.).

Fears and Phobias
Sensory decline, cognitive dysfunction and anxiety can all contribute to fears and phobias. The first step in treatment is to control underlying medical problems and cognitive dysfunction. Older dogs can suffer from fears and phobias of noise and thunderstorms and, less commonly, of going outdoors, entering certain rooms or walking on certain types of surfaces. Dog guardians’ own understandably frustrated reaction to their dogs’ behavior can also aggravate the problem-especially punishment is used. Try keeping your dog away from whatever triggers his fears or phobia, or masking the noise with background music. With the guidance of a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB), you can also use behavioral treatment to change your dog’s emotional response to things that frighten or upset him and, as a result, change his behavior. (Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a CAAB or ACAAB in your area.) See your veterinarian about possible drug or pheromone therapy for panic and anxiety, which can also help ease your dog’s fears and anxiety.

Compulsive and Stereotypic Behaviors

Compulsive and stereotypic behavior problems encompass a wide variety of behaviors with many possible causes. They’re defined as ritualized, repetitive behaviors that have no apparent goal or function. Examples include stereotypic licking or overgrooming that results in self-injury (“hot spots,” for example), spinning or tail chasing, pacing and jumping, air biting or fly snapping, staring at shadows or walls, flank sucking and pica (eating inedible objects, like rocks). Some medical conditions, including cognitive dysfunction, can contribute to or cause these behaviors. Compulsive disorders often arise from situations of conflict or anxiety. Things or situations that make your dog feel conflicted, stressed or anxious can lead him to engage in displacement behaviors, which can then become compulsive over time. (Displacement behaviors are those that occur outside of their normal context when dogs are frustrated, conflicted or stressed. An example is a dog who stops suddenly to groom himself while en route to his guardian who has just called him. He may be unsure of whether he’s going to be punished, so he expresses his anxiety by grooming, lip licking, yawning or sniffing the ground.) Drug therapy is usually necessary to resolve compulsive disorders. But if you can identify the source of conflict early on and reduce or eliminate it (such as conflict between your pets or inconsistent or delayed punishment from you), behavioral drug therapy may not be necessary. Please see our article, Compulsive Behavior in Dogs, for detailed information about the signs and treatment of these problems.

Aggression
 
A multitude of factors can contribute to an increase in a dog’s aggressive behavior. Medical conditions that affect your dog’s appetite, mobility, cognition, senses or hormones can lead to increased aggression, as can conditions that cause him pain or irritability. Aggression to family members can occur following changes in the family makeup, such as marriage or divorce, death or birth. Aggression to other pets can occur when a new pet is introduced to the family, as a younger dog matures or as an older dog becomes weaker or less assertive. Increased aggression toward unfamiliar people and animals can arise from your dog’s increasing anxiety and sensitivity as he ages.

Aggression can’t be effectively treated until a diagnosis has been made and the cause has been determined. Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a qualified animal behavior expert in your area, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB). If you can’t find a behaviorist, you can seek help from a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT), but be sure the trainer is qualified to help you. Determine whether she or he has education and experience in treating aggression, since this expertise is not required for CPDT certification.

One of these professionals can evaluate the situation and help you treat your dog’s aggression. Treatment-whether drug therapy, behavior therapy or making changes in your dog’s environment-will depend on the specific type of aggression and its cause or triggers. For example, treatment for fear-based aggression involves desensitization and counterconditioning (DSCC), as well as training to improve your control over your dog. Please see our article, Desensitization and Counterconditioning, for a detailed overview of this treatment. Medical problems that can’t be resolved, such as sensory decline, may limit what improvements can be achieved. Avoiding or preventing the triggers of your dog’s aggression may be the best option in these cases. Head halters, such as Premier’s Gentle Leader®Headcollar, can give you more control over your dog and increase everyone’s safety. Please see our article, Aggression in Dogs, for more information.







old dogs are the best dogs

They can be eccentric, slow afoot, even grouchy. But dogs live out their final days, says The Washington Post’s Gene Weingarten, with a humility and grace we all could learn from.
Not long before his death, Harry and I headed out for a walk that proved eventful. He was nearly 13, old for a big dog. Walks were no longer the slap-happy Iditarods of his youth, frenzies of purposeless pulling in which we would cast madly off in all directions, fighting for command. Nor were they the exuberant archaeological expeditions of his middle years, when every other tree or hydrant or blade of grass held tantalizing secrets about his neighbors. In his old age, Harry had transformed his walk into a simple process of elimination—a dutiful, utilitarian, head-down trudge. When finished, he would shuffle home to his ratty old bed, which graced our living room because Harry could no longer ascend the stairs. On these walks, Harry seemed oblivious to his surroundings, absorbed in the arduous responsibility of placing foot before foot before foot before foot. But this time, on the edge of a small urban park, he stopped to watch something. A man was throwing a Frisbee to his dog. The dog, about Harry’s size, was tracking the flight expertly, as Harry had once done, anticipating hooks and slices by watching the pitch and roll and yaw of the disc, as Harry had done, then catching it with a joyful, punctuating leap, as Harry had once done, too.They can be eccentric, slow afoot, even grouchy. But dogs live out their final days, says The Washington Post’s Gene Weingarten, with a humility and grace we all could learn from.


Harry sat. For 10 minutes, he watched the fling and catch, fling and catch, his face contented, his eyes alight, his tail a-twitch. Our walk home was almost … jaunty.

Some years ago, The Washington Post invited readers to come up with a midlife list of goals for an underachiever. The first-runner-up prize went to: “Win the admiration of my dog.”

It’s no big deal to love a dog; they make it so easy for you. They find you brilliant, even if you are a witling. You fascinate them, even if you are as dull as a butter knife. They are fond of you, even if you are a genocidal maniac. Hitler loved his dogs, and they loved him.

Puppies are incomparably cute and incomparably entertaining, and, best of all, they smell exactly like puppies. At middle age, a dog has settled into the knuckleheaded matrix of behavior we find so appealing—his unquestioning loyalty, his irrepressible willingness to please, his infectious happiness. But it is not until a dog gets old that his most important virtues ripen and coalesce. Old dogs can be cloudy-eyed and grouchy, gray of muzzle, graceless of gait, odd of habit, hard of hearing, pimply, wheezy, lazy, and lumpy. But to anyone who has ever known an old dog, these flaws are of little consequence. Old dogs are vulnerable. They show exorbitant gratitude and limitless trust. They are without artifice. They are funny in new and unexpected ways. But, above all, they seem at peace.

Kafka wrote that the meaning of life is that it ends. He meant that our lives are shaped and shaded by the existential terror of knowing that all is finite. This anxiety informs poetry, literature, the monuments we build, the wars we wage—all of it. Kafka was talking, of course, about people. Among animals, only humans are said to be self-aware enough to comprehend the passage of time and the grim truth of mortality. How, then, to explain old Harry at the edge of that park, gray and lame, just days from the end, experiencing what can only be called wistfulness and nostalgia? I have lived with eight dogs, watched six of them grow old and infirm with grace and dignity, and die with what seemed to be acceptance. I have seen old dogs grieve at the loss of their friends. I have come to believe that as they age, dogs comprehend the passage of time, and, if not the inevitability of death, certainly the relentlessness of the onset of their frailties. They understand that what’s gone is gone.

What dogs do not have is an abstract sense of fear, or a feeling of injustice or entitlement. They do not see themselves, as we do, as tragic heroes, battling ceaselessly against the merciless onslaught of time. Unlike us, old dogs lack the audacity to mythologize their lives. You’ve got to love them for that.

The product of a Kansas puppy mill, Harry was sold to us as a yellow Labrador retriever. I suppose it was technically true, but only in the sense that Tic Tacs are technically “food.” Harry’s lineage was suspect. He wasn’t the square-headed, elegant type of Labrador you can envision in the wilds of Canada hunting for ducks. He was the shape of a baked potato, with the color and luster of an interoffice envelope. You could envision him in the wilds of suburban Toledo, hunting for nuggets of dried food in a carpet.

His full name was Harry S Truman, and once he’d reached middle age, he had indeed developed the unassuming soul of a haberdasher. We sometimes called him Tru, which fit his loyalty but was in other ways a misnomer: Harry was a bit of an eccentric, a few bubbles off plumb. Though he had never experienced an electrical shock, whenever he encountered a wire on the floor—say, a power cord leading from a laptop to a wall socket—Harry would stop and refuse to proceed. To him, this barrier was as impassable as the Himalayas. He’d stand there, waiting for someone to move it. Also, he was afraid of wind.

While Harry lacked the wiliness and cunning of some dogs, I did watch one day as he figured out a basic principle of physics. He was playing with a water bottle in our backyard—it was one of those 5-gallon cylindrical plastic jugs from the top of a water cooler. At one point, it rolled down a hill, which surprised and delighted him. He retrieved it, brought it back up and tried to make it go down again. It wouldn’t. I watched him nudge it around until he discovered that for the bottle to roll, its long axis had to be perpendicular to the slope of the hill. You could see the understanding dawn on his face; it was Archimedes in his bath, Helen Keller at the water spigot.

That was probably the intellectual achievement of Harry’s life, tarnished only slightly by the fact that he spent the next two hours insipidly entranced, rolling the bottle down and hauling it back up. He did not come inside until it grew too dark for him to see.

I believe I know exactly when Harry became an old dog. He was about 9 years old. It happened at 10:15 on the evening of June 21, 2001, the day my family moved from the suburbs to the city. The move took longer than we’d anticipated. Inexcusably, Harry had been left alone in the vacated house—eerie, echoing, empty of furniture and of all belongings except Harry and his bed—for eight hours. When I arrived to pick him up, he was beyond frantic.

He met me at the door and embraced me around the waist in a way that is not immediately reconcilable with the musculature and skeleton of a dog’s front legs. I could not extricate myself from his grasp. We walked out of that house like a slow-dancing couple, and Harry did not let go until I opened the car door.

He wasn’t barking at me in reprimand, as he once might have done. He hadn’t fouled the house in spite. That night, Harry was simply scared and vulnerable, impossibly sweet and needy and grateful. He had lost something of himself, but he had gained something more touching and more valuable. He had entered old age.

In the year after our move, Harry began to age visibly, and he did it the way most dogs do. First his muzzle began to whiten, and then the white slowly crept backward to swallow his entire head. As he became more sedentary, he thickened a bit, too.

On walks, he would no longer bother to scout and circle for a place to relieve himself. He would simply do it in mid-plod, like a horse, leaving the difficult logistics of drive-by cleanup to me. Sometimes, while crossing a busy street, with cars whizzing by, he would plop down to scratch his ear. Sometimes, he would forget where he was and why he was there. To the amusement of passersby, I would have to hunker down beside him and say, “Harry, we’re on a walk, and we’re going home now. Home is this way, okay?” On these dutiful walks, Harry ignored almost everything he passed. The most notable exception was an old, barrel-chested female pit bull named Honey, whom he loved. This was surprising, both because other dogs had long ago ceased to interest Harry at all, and because even back when they did, Harry’s tastes were for the guys. 

Still, when we met Honey on walks, Harry perked up. Honey was younger by five years and heartier by a mile, but she liked Harry and slowed her gait when he was around. They waddled together for blocks, eyes forward, hardly interacting but content in each other’s company. I will forever be grateful to Honey for sweetening Harry’s last days. 

Some people who seem unmoved by the deaths of tens of thousands through war or natural disaster will nonetheless grieve inconsolably over the loss of the family dog. People who find this behavior distasteful are often the ones without pets. It is hard to understand, in the abstract, the degree to which a companion animal, particularly after a long life, becomes a part of you. I believe I’ve figured out what this is all about. It is not as noble as I’d like it to be, but it is not anything of which to be ashamed, either.

In our dogs, we see ourselves. Dogs exhibit almost all of our emotions; if you think a dog cannot register envy or pity or pride or melancholia, you have never lived with one for any length of time. What dogs lack is our ability to dissimulate. They wear their emotions nakedly, and so, in watching them, we see ourselves as we would be if we were stripped of posture and pretense. Their innocence is enormously appealing. When we watch a dog progress from puppy­hood to old age, we are watching our own lives in microcosm. Our dogs become old, frail, crotchety, and vulnerable, just as Grandma did, just as we surely will, come the day. When we grieve for them, we grieve for ourselves.

From the book Old Dogs, text by Gene Weingarten and Michael S. Williamson, based on a longer excerpt that originally appeared in The Washington Post. ©2008 by Gene Weingarten and Michael S. Williamson. Reprinted by permission of Simon & Schuster Inc.

Dog factfile

It is generally accepted that the common ancestor of the domestic dog (Canis familiaris) is the wolf .

Domestication of the dog began around 15,000 years ago and during this process, humans selected for particularly desirable traits such as coat colour and leg length 

This selection process has resulted in over 400 different breeds of dog ; 209 are recognised by the UK Kennel Club 


Looking at the world from a dog’s point of view can help you to understand your pet better, so check out our top ten dog facts!

1. Dogs have highly developed senses
Dogs have an incredibly well-developed sense of smell, far superior to humans 

At certain frequencies, dogs can detect sounds up to four times quieter than humans can hear . Dogs can also hear in ultrasound, which is sound with a frequency greater than the upper limit of human hearing [8].

Dogs can see better than humans in dark and dim light 

2. Dogs are diverse
Dogs are extremely diverse in both size and shape [10]. For example, there is over a 110-fold difference in weight between the Chihuahua (1kg) and the St Bernard (115kg) 

3. Dogs use a range of methods to communicate
Communication is very important in helping dogs form and maintain social groups 

To transmit scent information, dogs use urine, faeces and secretions from special scent glands 

Dogs produce a range of sounds, often in complex combinations, including whines, whimpers, growls, barks and howls 

Many dogs can use their body, face, tail, ears and limbs to communicate with other dogs 

4. Dogs are athletic
The fastest recorded speed for a greyhound is 42 miles per hour, similar to that of a mounted racehorse, which can reach speeds of around 43 miles per hour 

5. Dogs are naturally inquisitive
Dogs actively seek information about their surroundings and will spend much time investigating and exploring [17].

Feral dogs will naturally roam for great distances in search of food 

6. Dogs are omnivores
Dogs eat both meat and plant food, so are called omnivores 

Dogs' teeth are adapted to this diet. Whilst dogs do have teeth designed for tearing meat, compared to other carnivores dogs have more molars, which are used for crushing and grinding plant food 

7. Dogs are highly social
Many dogs enjoy the company of other dogs, but they will also form strong social bonds to humans, becoming very attached to particular individuals 

8. Dogs are intelligent
Dogs can learn the names of their toys. For example Rico, a border collie, has learnt the names of 200 toys and can reliably fetch the correct toy when asked to. Rico’s word learning ability is better than that of a chimpanzee 

9. Dogs are playful

Dogs use special signals to show they want to play. When inviting others to play, a dog crouches on its forelimbs, remains standing on its hindlimbs and may wag its tail or bark. This behaviour is called the ‘play bow’ 

10. Dogs really are man’s best friend
In addition to companionship, some dogs help their owners in really special ways. Assistance dogs can help blind, deaf and disabled people, whilst some dogs can even help alert owners before an epileptic fit starts 

Dogs can be trained to detect drugs, explosives, termites, and even some diseases such as cancer and diabetes 

Understanding dogs' needs

Dogs are incredible animals with complex needs that must be met if they are to be kept healthy and happy.

11/15/12

How To Tell If A Dog Is Pregnant

When talking about canine pregnancy there is an awful lot of material to consider and so I will be splitting the topic between three hubs. This hub is going to talk about how to tell if your dog is pregnant and what veterinary procedures can be undertaken to be certain that a dog is carrying a litter.

Whilst it is advisable for a dog to be neutered, not all owners will want to put their dog through this process and may actually want their bitch to have a litter of puppies. In some cases a female dog may escape and mate before she has been altered. No matter how a dog has come to be pregnant it is up to the owner to ensure that they look after their dog, helping to nurse them through the pregnancy.

A pregnancy usually lasts for between 60 to 65 days and there are quite a few signs that can indicate that a female dog is pregnant. However, most of them do not become apparent until well into the pregnancy. The first thing that may be noticeable is the discharge of mucus from the vulvar; this usually happens around a month after the dog has mated and so if spotted by an owner can be a good indication of when a bitch was impregnated. Between 25 to 30 days after the mating has taken place a dog’s teat will become pinker, erect and easier to see as the blood supply to the nipples will have become increased. A weight change is of course inevitable and a pregnant dog will start to get heavier from around the 35-day-mark onwards; some dogs can increase to up to 50% over their normal weight.

There a few changes that will occur from around day 40 of the pregnancy. One such change is the enlargement of the abdomen which whilst thought to be a common sign, is not always shown with a bitch that is pregnant/carrying a litter for the first time; a dog carrying a second or third litter will ‘show’ a lot more. Another sign that occurs around the 40-day-mark is the enlargement of the bitch’s mammary glands, with some female dogs’ glands leaking quite heavily around this time.

Behavioural changes may also start to take place with some female dogs becoming lethargic, depressed or losing their appetite. Whilst this can be due to the pregnancy it can also be an indication of a problem with the pregnancy and so a vet should be contacted immediately. If there are no complications then a dog’s appetite will actually increase towards the second half of the pregnancy. As the delivery date gets closer the pregnant dog will start to show her nesting instincts by scratching at the floor, particularly in her bed, and displaying restlessness behaviour.

On average it will take about a month for an owner to realise that their dog is pregnant. As well as looking out for the signs of pregnancy by themselves, the owner should take their dog to the vets where confirmation of the pregnancy can be obtained. A common procedure to detect puppies in the womb is an ultrasound that detects foetal heartbeats; this can be used after a bitch has been pregnant for 20 days or more. Another way a vet may want to check will be by feeling the abdomen after around 30 days. This can be quite uncomfortable for a pregnant dog and so ultrasounds are usually a less invasive way to check for puppies. After a dog has been pregnant for 25 days, a vet will be able to run an endocrine test to detect relaxin, a hormone that is only produced by pregnant dogs.

The next hub I will be writing will take a look at what to do when your dog goes into labour and actually gives birth. This can be a worrying time for any pet owner but there a few things that can be done to help the process which I will highlight and take a look into. In addition to writing on HubPages I also write for Animal Friends Insurance, an ethical company that offers cheap dog insurance.

11/10/12

Stealing: Is Your Dog a Thief?

What is a thief? In the human sense, is a dog capable of stealing? When something of yours is in jaws of a dog, you want it back! How to get it?

Actions you take when your dog runs off with something of yours can create grave behavior problems in the dog-or improve the dog's training and your relationship. For either result you'll put in the same amount of time. Knowing what to do lets you shape the outcome.

Why Do Dogs Carry Things Off?

A dog's reasons for carrying something are fairly simple, but not always obvious to humans. Dogs have no way of knowing the value things have for us. Money means nothing to a dog.

Wild dogs often need to carry food from where they find it to where they will eat it. They bury some to eat later. They carry food to pups and sometimes to other members of the pack. In some cases they eat the food, travel to the pups, and regurgitate the food for the pups to eat. Domesticated dogs--at least some of them--have the ability to regurgitate voluntarily in order to transfer food in this way.

Some domesticated dogs bury bones, toys or other items, and some hide the objects in other ways. A dog worried about having a steady food supply may hide food. Sometimes a dog who does it at first in a home will stop after settling in. A dog with pups may do it when she's never done it before.

Whenever you see a dog hiding food, keep in mind that the dog may be feeling insecure or may feel a need to think about providing for the future. To rebuke the dog would likely make the dog feel even more insecure.

Dogs use objects to soothe their mouths by chewing. The jaws apparently are uncomfortable, possibly painful, in the process of setting new teeth. We should be glad that puppy chewing reduces the needle-sharpness of their first teeth! The permanent teeth need to be set in the jaws by chewing, and if this starts the dog on a lifelong habit of chewing appropriate objects, better dental health for life can be the welcome benefit. For you that means a dog with better-smelling breath, sounder teeth, and less frequent need for anesthetized dental cleaning.

Remember that dogs need to chew. When your dog has something inappropriate as a chew item, make a quick switch that ends in your dog chewing something appropriate and getting praised for it. Realize you'll likely have to do this many times and supervise until your young dog forms good chewing habits. Punishment will not help solve this problem, and will result in problems much more serious than chewed possessions.

Besides lifelong dental health, a dog with good chewing habits can use a chew toy to relax. This ability helps dogs control their own emotions in some rather remarkable ways. Instead of bugging you when you're sleeping or reading, your dog may pick up a toy and chew it until the dog falls asleep.

To help develop this ability, be sure to place one or more favorite chew toys in the crate with a young pup. With nothing else to do, the stage is set for the pup to discover that chewing helps bring sleep, and at the same time makes the jaws feel better.

Some people recommend providing only one toy so the dog will focus on that one object for chewing. Others suggest that you rotate toys, making old toys new again when they come back out of storage. Whatever you do, try to provide your dog with a variety of textures in toys to chew, especially textures similar to the human possessions that have interested the dog.

Dogs often "steal" something they notice interests you because they want to play. They'll do this with other dogs, too. Chasing your dog is not a good idea, because dogs who learn to run from humans have played this game in traffic.

Cornering the dog and angrily forcing the object out of the dog's mouth triggers fight-or-flight survival instincts-but gives the dog no flight option. People get bitten this way and damage their dogs' temperaments in the process. The dog has a new reason for running off with the object and for defensive behavior: fear of you.

The dog's playful mood in initiating this game is a perfect training opportunity if you know what to do, and we'll discuss that in a minute. Meanwhile, realize that it's vital not to turn this into a confrontation. Good work with your dog will make these situations easy to handle. In the meantime, trade the dog for something better, and act happy about the deal.

Dogs do sometimes "want" things. Some dogs have favorite toys. Sometimes this behavior may be related to maternal instinct. A heritage from the wild is food guarding, which will be made worse if you force the issue. The trick to handling food guarding is to convince the dog there's no NEED to guard food. Instead of taking food away, you keep approaching the dog as you bring small amounts of food. Meanwhile, though, feed the dog in a private place.

What Not to Do When Your Dog "Steals"

Things that don't work and that cause complications when handling the dog who has your stuff include:

1. Chasing the dog. Running away from people is life-threatening for a dog. Pattern your dog to always come toward you, unless it's a retrieve that involves going out and then coming back.

2. Yelling or punishing the dog for damage. The dog won't learn anything from this except fear. When people return home to find a dog left loose in the house has damaged things, and then freak out at the dog, they may soon find their dog has developed separation anxiety. The damage done before will pale by comparison with damage from a dog suffering separation anxiety.

3. Punishing the dog when you get the object back or when the dog comes to you. Teach your dog to bring things to you and to come to you when called. This learning does not occur when the dog experiences you being nasty when the dog comes to you or you take something from the dog's mouth. Anytime you remove something from your dog's mouth, make the dog happy about giving it to you. Give the dog something nice in return such as praise, games and treats-leave the dog happy about the transaction! The same is true whenever the dog comes to you. A dog who comes to you should be "home free," no matter WHAT the dog has done just prior to coming. Dogs are not going to come to people who penalize them for coming!

4. Corner and punish a dog. Just as you don't want to pattern a dog to run from you, it's dangerous to pattern a dog that being caught by a person can mean being in big trouble. You need to be a "safe place" for your dog, someone your dog can always trust. This will happen only if you behave in a trustworthy way. Lying to a dog doesn't work, because the dog only believes what you do, not what you say.

How to Use "Stealing" as a Training Bonanza

The brain-dog as well as human-is most receptive to learning when in a playful mood. When your dog grabs an object and prances away, enticing you with body language to come and play, you've just been handed a solid gold opportunity to teach your dog one of the most important advanced behaviors: the retrieve.

What's your first move? Instead of getting mad, join the game! Instead of chasing the dog, run from the dog. Make it the dog's challenge to chase you and persuade you to take the object. Have something handy to give the dog in exchange or to throw for the dog to pick up, carry, and hopefully bring to you. Get happy! Have fun! This is part of the great joy of having a dog. Don't miss it!

All of this fun gives you the opportunity to develop a language of retrieving with your dog. As you play together, associate words with the dog's actions of "pick it up," "get it," "go get it," "hold it," "bring it," "put it in my hand," etc.

Retrieving is the best game to play with a dog. It builds cooperation, brings the dog to you, enhances communication between you and the dog, conditions the dog to give things to you, and provides the dog with exercise.

It's Your Choice

It's no exaggeration to say that people have ruined the temperaments of their dogs by responding harshly when dogs "steal." Don't make this mistake. Recognize the golden opportunity presented to you when your clever dog picks up an object and runs around with it. The dog is ready to learn. Be ready to teach! In the process, you'll learn, too, and you and your dog will both be the winners.
dog
Power by xinh xinh