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Showing posts with label Ebook about the dogs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ebook about the dogs. Show all posts


Ebook : How to Break Up a Dog Fight Without Getting Hurt

How to Break Up a Dog Fight 

Without Getting Hurt! 

By Ed Frawley

I have owned, trained and bred dogs for 45 years. I have trained protection dogs and police service 

dogs since 1974. If you have come to this page you have issues with aggressive dogs. In the mid 1990’s I wrote this article on “How to Break Up A Dog Fight Without Getting Hurt” which you can read below. 

It has been reprinted (with my permission) in many different languages.

My web site is over 10,000 pages and a good portion of this site is dedicated to dominant dogs and aggressive dogs. I have organized this page to not only include my article, but also list training DVD’s that I have produced to help deal with aggressive dogs, books on dog aggression and links to the numerous articles I have written on the topic of aggressive dogs.

Leerburg® DVDs on Training Aggressive Dogs 

DEALING WITH DOMINAT AND AGGRESSIVEDOGS 3 hrs 45 min This DVD demonstrates how 
to break up a dog fight if you are alone. Basic Dog Obedience - 4 hours - Obedience training needs to be part of the solution to dog aggression. With that said it’s not the only solution. I tell people it’s about 25% of the solution. The problem is if that 25% is not addressed you will never solve your problem. 

Electric Collar Training for the Pet Owner 2 1/2 hours - This DVD teaches pet owners who have never owned an electric collar how to condition their dog to the collar, how to determine the working level of stimulation to use on their dog (every dog is different) and then there is a detailed step by step section on how to train a dog with an electric collar.

Before we start, I would like to say that I amalways looking for photos of dog bites that can be used to demonstrate to others how dangerous breaking up a fight can be. I have included some photos at the bottom of this page and on other dog bite pages in my web site. 

This past week I had an incident at my kennel that reminds me how important it is for everyone who works with dogs, or owns dogs to know how to break up a dogfight without getting hurt. I will start with a warning. Unless you have a lot of experience do not try and break up a dog fight by yourself. Never step in the middle of two loving pets and try and grab them by the collar to stop a dog fight. If you try this, the chances of you being badly bitten are extremely high. 

People don’t understand that 2 animals in the middle of a fight are in survival drive. If they see you at all, they don’t look at you as their loving owner. When you charge in and grab them they either react out of a fight reflex and bite, or they see you as another aggressor. When they are in fight or flight mode they will bite you. You can take that to the bank. 

Here is what happened at my kennel this week. The wife of a friend came to the kennel with her 
daughter. She told my secretaries that I had said it was OK to go into my whelping rooms to show her little girl our puppies. 

I had never told her this. Anyway, that does not matter. When she left, she did not latch one of the kennel gates properly (this was also an employee mistake for not checking the gate). Later, one of my kennel staff let another bitch outside. The first bitch jumped against her poorly latched kennel gate, and it came open. She ran outside and started a terrible dog fight. I had not told this young kennel person how to break up a dog fight in progress. He ran in and tried to grab both dog collars. He was bitten very badly in the forearm and hand before I could get on scene and break up the dog fight the correct way. 

The safest way to break up a dogfight requires 2 people. Each person grabs the back feet of one of the dogs. The dog back feet are then picked up like a wheelbarrow. With the legs up, both dogs are then pulled apart. 

Once the dog fight is broken up and the dogs pulled apart it is critical that the people do not release the dogs or the dog fight will begin again. 

The two people need to start turning in a circle, or slowly swinging the dogs in a circle while they 
back away from the other dog. This stops the dog from curling and coming back and biting the person holding their legs. 

By circling the dog has to sidestep with its front feet or it will fall on its chin. As long as you slowly continue to back and circle, the dog cannot do any damage to you. To insure that the fight will not begin all over again when you release the dogs, one of the dogs needs to be dragged into an enclosure (i.e. a kennel, the garage, another room) before the dog is released. If you do not do this, the dogs will often charge back and start fighting again or if you release the dog to quickly the dog will turn and attack the person who had his feet. 

Dog fights are a very dangerous thing to try and break up alone. You should never rush in and try and grab the dogs to pull them apart. They are in high “fight drive” and are not thinking clearly when fighting. If someone grabs them they will bite without even thinking about who or what they are biting. This is how your loving pet can dog bite the living crap out of you in about a second and a half. 

In reality it probably doesn’t even know it’s biting you. I compare it to a bar fight. If a person comes up behind 2 guys fighting and just reaches out and grabs the shoulder of one of the combatants most of the time the fighter is going to turn and throw a punch without even looking at who or what he is hitting. This is because his adrenaline in pumping and he is in “fight drive”. 

The worst case scenario is that you are alone when a serious fight breaks out. There are a couple things that you must keep in mind: 

• Keep your cool you have a job to do. 

• Do not waste time screaming at the dogs. It hardly ever works. 

• Your goal is still the same; you must break up the fight without getting hurt. 

• Go get a leash (allow the fight to continue while you do this). 

• Dogs are almost always locked onto one another. Walk up and loop the leash around the back loin of the dog by either threading the leash through the handle or use the clip. I prefer the thread method. 

• Now slowly back away and drag the dog to a fence or to an object that you can tie the leash to. By doing this, you effectively create an anchor for one of the dogs. 

• Then walk around and grab the back legs of the second dog and drag it away from the dog that is tied up. Remember to turn and circle as they release. 

• Drag the dog into a dog pen or another room before you release the back legs. 

• Go back and take the dog off the fence and put him or her into a dog kennel. 

• Sit down and have a stiff drink (or two). 

People talk about using cattle prods or shock collars to break up 2 pets that fight. I can tell you that many times this is not going to work. The electric cattle prod or electric collar will only put the dogs into higher fight drive. When they are shocked they will turn and bite the prod, or when they are shocked they will think the other dog is causing the pain and they will fight harder. An electric collar is best used in conditioning training, but not during an actual dogfight. I had a friend tell me that using a stun gun works. 

Not to actually shock the dog, but just to hold it in your hand and allow it to snap. The sound of the electrical snap is supposed to cause the dogs to stop fighting. I will muzzle 2 of my dogs and let them go at it to see if this works. I will be surprised if it works on 2 really strong dogs going after each other. 

Ebook : The Importance of Good Positioning on Canine Hip X-rays

The Importance of Good 


on Canine Hip X-rays 

By Ed Frawley 

I would like to thank Dr. Jane Brakken for help with my dogs and allowing me the use of her x-ray room to take these photos. 

Hip Dysplasia (another article on the subject) 

The positioning is so bad in this x-ray that the dog’s 
owner should have refused to pay for it. 

The purpose of this article is to teach the average dog owner how to determine if a hip x-ray is done properly on their dog’s hips. The article will demonstrate correct positioning and poor positioning. It will show 2 different sets of x-rays done on the same dog on the same day. One set has good positioning; the second set has poor positioning. You will see that with poor positioning, a dog’s hips can look worse than they actually are. You will also see that no matter what you do with positioning you can never make a bad hip into a good hip. 

The photo of the hip x-ray above (labeled good positioning) was done on a 10 month old German Shepherd from my kennel. While the dog is slightly angled on the x-ray plate, the positioning for the hips is pretty good. The photo below (the same photo as above) shows the various points on an x-ray to look at to determine if the dog was positioned properly.

Good Positioning 

Because this article is directed to the general public, I will not attempt to use the proper medical names for a lot of the terminology in this article. 

The first thing to look at in an x-ray is to see if the legs come straight down from the hips with the knee caps square and looking alike. We don’t want to see one leg straight and the other going off at an angle. 

The above photo has 3 sets of colored arrows (green, yellow and red). 

The green arrows above point to the bone that the hip socket is built into. These bones almost look like wings. You will notice that you can see more of the wing on the right than the wing on the left. When the position is 100% perfect, both wings will look exactly alike. 

The yellow arrows point to holes in the bone structure. When the body positioning is correct the 2 holes on the left side are the same shape and size as the holes on the right side. The positioning is good on this dog, but not 100% perfect. That’s why the holes on the right are slightly different than the left. This is most noticeable in the lower right hole being smaller than the left side lower hole. 

The red arrows above are the first things I look at when examining an x-ray. They point to the amount of pelvis bone that is covered by the leg bones on the x-ray. If you look at the pelvis, you can see that with the legs fully extended straight down, the legs overlay the very corners or tips of the pelvis. You can see the overlap through the leg bone. The picture above shows an even amount of overlap on both sides of the pelvis. 

The photo below shows a much larger overlap on the left of the screen than on the right of the screen. This is poor positioning. 

Ebook : How to Fit A Prong CoLLAr

How to Fit A Prong CoLLAr

By Ed Frawley 

I have trained more dogs than I can remember with prong collars. Not all dogs need them but for those that do I call them POWER STEERING ON DOGS. 

They are excellent for many people who own dogs with behavioral problems. While many think a prong looks nasty the fact is they are far more humane than a normal choke collar. 

The biggest problem with prong collars is that new dog owners don’t know how to put them on, how to size them or how their dog should wear them. This article will address these issues. It will not address the decisions made on which dogs need them and how to use them in a training program. I leave that to my DVD on Basic Dog Obedience. 

Normal choke collars need to be ordered by length (i.e. 22 inches long etc.) Prong collars on the other hand are ordered by weight - Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large.

Prong collars come in a standard length which is adjusted to fit the neck of the dog by removing or adding links to the collar. 

Prong collars (unlike choke collars) are meant to be put on and taken off before and after daily training sessions. 

Choke collars are often left on the dog all the time (in some cases this can be a dangerous practice because dogs can hang themselves if they are kennel climbers). 

One of the most common mistakes new trainers make is they don’t remove enough links to get the correct snug fit. When that happens the collar hangs down on the dogs neck which results in the collar not working the way that it was designed. A prong collar should fit the way you see it in the photo below.

Properly Fit Prong Collar on a Doberman

The correct position for a prong collar is to sit right behind the ears and up under the jaw line like you see in the photo above. The photo below shows how many people mistakenly let a dog wear a prong.

this photo above demonstrates a prong collar that 
was not properly sized for the dog. the collar is too 
loose and riding too far down on the dog’s neck. it 
should be up where i have drawn the yellow line.

this collar is correctly sized and fits properly. 
the rings on the leash are attached to the right place 
on the side of the neck.

Sizing the Prong
Adding and removing Links

Some people mistakenly try and put a prong collar ontheir dog by slipping it over the dogs head and thenmoving it down on the neck. That’s wrong. Prong collarsare designed to be put on and taken off by unhookinglinks and actually unsnapping the collar from around the neck.

The right way to unhook a collar is to pinch one of thelinks and pull it apart. Taking the collar off is always easierthan putting it back on.

this photo shows how to pinch a link and take the 
collar off the dog’s neck. it does not matter which link 
you pinch. 

ebook : Feeding a Raw Diet - Question and Answers

Feeding a Raw Diet 

Question & Answers

written by Cindy Rhodes

DISCLAIMER: I am not a vet or a health care professional. Feeding a raw species appropriate diet can be a controversial topic, and like any feeding regimen can have health risks associated with incorrect feeding and preparation. DO NOT FEED COOKED BONES, ever! Cooking bones changes the molecular structure; they become brittle and may splinter and injure or kill your dog!! NO COOKED BONES. 

Do your own research FIRST before diving into a new method of feeding your dog. Read as many books and articles as you can, talk to successful raw feeders and find a mentor, and use your own judgment and gut instinct. If you aren’t comfortable with it, DON’T do it. Remember there are many ways to feed your dogs, with many variations. Just because I don’t cover it here, doesn’t mean it’s wrong. 

The ideas and opinions in this section of the website are my own, and come from feeding my dogs this way since 1994. I am constantly evolving, tweaking and changing my ideas as my knowledge and experience increases. Take any ideas I present here at your own risk and discretion. 

I hope you and your dogs enjoy many healthy years together. Congratulations on making the first step towards one of the most important things you can do for your dog. 

General Questions on Feeding Dogs a Raw Diet 

1. I am interested in feeding the BARF diet, what do I do first? 

2. My vet told me my dog would get sick or DIE from feeding a raw diet? I am having second thoughts about switching. 

3. Why should I switch my dog to a raw diet? 

4. Is kibble actually bad for my dog? He seems really healthy. 

5. I want to breed my female. Is it ok to feed a raw diet to pregnant dogs? 

6. What about my new puppy? He was fed kibble at the breeder’s place. How do I switch him? I don’t want him to get sick. 

7. What is a RMB? 

8. What is a recreational bone? 

9. I have heard that you should NEVER feed your dog chicken bones! One of the foundations of your feeding program is chicken! Aren’t you afraid your dogs will choke or the bones will splinter? 

10. I was told that if you feed dogs raw meat, they will become vicious and kill animals. Is this true? 

11. How Do I Make The Switch? 

12. What Should I Expect At First? 

13. I have heard that raw is much more expensive than kibble, how much will it cost me to feed my dog this way? 

14. I read somewhere on the internet that feeding a raw diet reduces vet bills? How does that work? 

15. It seems too complicated to feed a raw diet; I don’t have any free time to spend on this. How much time does it take each day to prepare the food? 

16. What Do You Feed Your Dogs? Can You Send Me Some Menu Plans? 

17. How Do I Know Each Meal Is Balanced? 

18. How Much Do I feed? 

19. I’m Not Sure I Am Ready To Switch to Raw, But I Don’t Want To Feed Kibble. Do you have any 


20. I have small kids and I am worried about Salmonella and E-Coli! 

21. What about Grains? I read that you don’t feed them to your dogs. Why not? 

22. What supplements do I need to use? 

23. How often do you use supplements? The label says to give it every day. 

24. What is ACV? 

25. What are probiotics? 

26. What are digestive enzymes? 

27. What about vegetables? 

28. What kinds of meat can I feed my dogs? 

29. Are there parasites in raw meat? 

30. I want to feed a raw diet but whole bones scare me! Can I grind them up before feeding? 

31. What kind of equipment do I need to grind RMBs? 

32. I see that some places sell preground raw pet food. Are these ok to feed? They seem very expensive though! 

33. Can I buy RMBs at the grocery store? If not, where do I find them? 

34. What about feeding Raw and Kibble together, is that OK? 

35. I forgot to thaw out my dog’s next meal, can I feed it frozen? 

36. I left my dog’s raw food out of the fridge too long and it smells bad! Is it safe to feed it or 
should I throw it away? 

37. Wendy Vollhard and her husband have written a number of articles or books on feeding a raw diet. Some of your information is different that what they recommend. There seems to be a conflict among experts here. What are your thoughts?

ebook : Ed Frawley’s PhiLosoPhy on Dog Training

“Ed Frawley’s” 

PhiLosoPhy oN Dog TraiNiNg 

writed by Ed Frawley

My philosophy of how to train dogs has been a journey that began when I was a boy in the 1950’s and continues to this day. I get as excited when I learn something new about dog training today as I did 45 or 50 years ago. For me this journey began as a hobby and has evolved into a life’s passion and work. It will end on the day I die. 

There is nothing secretive or magical about training dogs. I have learned that good dog training is pretty much all common sense with a foundation based on experience and a clear understanding of the way dogs think and interact (pack structure). The key is to get the right experience. 

One only needs to spend a couple of hours searching the internet to understand that there are certainly a lot of people out there who lack experience or are basing their training opinions on poorly acquired experience. 

Dog training does not necessarily have to begin when you buy an 8 week old puppy (although it should) or when your 10 year old dog bites a child. In reality it begins on the day you make up your mind to learn how your dog thinks and relates to the world it lives in. It begins when you decide to relate to your dog in a manner that both you and your dog respect and understand. It begins when you make up your mind to develop a meaningful relationship based on trust, communication and control. 

Although our family had owned dogs my entire life I made this decision to really try and understand dogs when I was in high school. I was 16 years old and it was the 1960’s. I owned a rescue dog named King and thought he was the cat’s meow. 

We took 2 or 3 walks in the woods every day. He was my best bud. I had him trained to hand signals and verbal commands. One morning, before school, we came out of the woods and King chased a cat into the road. He would not respond to my calls to stop and COME. He ran in front of an Austin Martin sports car and was killed. To this day I can close my eyes and replay that event in slow motion. 

That one incident changed the way I looked at dog training. It caused me to step back and make up my mind that the next time I would learn how to communicate in a way that my dog would listen to me in every scenario and not just in the ones he felt like doing so. 

I wrote this article with the thought that it may help other dog owners develop a new approach on how 
they relate to and train their dogs. I hope in some small way it makes you think and develop or adopt your own philosophy of how to train your dog. 

There are 3 Categories of Dog Trainers 

Three basic categories of dog trainers which I place on a sliding scale. 

First Category 

The first category on the left is the group of people who beg or bribe their dogs to do something by offering a food or toy reward. 

Don’t get me wrong, I use food and toys in training, but I also use distractions and corrections. The people in this first category use neither. All of the large pet food warehouses (i.e. Pet Smart, Petco , or 
the Monks of New Skeet etc) sponsor this category of ineffective training because they feel it’s politically correct. 

The problem with this group is that the dogs often choose to not do what’s asked because they don’t think the reward is worth the task. These dogs end up being pushy, dominant and often antisocial aggressive animals. These are the dogs that are turned into animal shelters as being unmanageable when in fact they act the way they do as a result of ineffective dog training. 

second Category 

At the other end of the scale, on the right side, is the second category of dog trainers. These are trainers who intimidate or force their dogs to do what they want (the William Kholer trainers) . I call them the old school “yank and crank” trainers. 

They put a choke collar on a dog and force it to do everything. Many professional dog trainers use these methods because for them time is money and with enough force a dog can be trained to do lmost 

The problem with yank and crank trainers is the dogs seldom like their handlers and in fact are often afraid of them. These are the dogs that tuck their tails or lay on the ground when asked to do something. When these dogs are near their owners they don’t look happy because they never know when the hammer is going to fall. 

The problem with both of these categories of dog trainers is that their training produces inconsistent 
results along with dogs that don’t like or respect their owners. If you don’t have a good bond with your dog, or if your dog does not respect you as a pack leader, you will never reach consistency in training. 

Third Category 

The third category of dog trainer is the where I want to be. Category three trainers strive to be in the middle of the other two categories. They balance in the middle but are always prepared to move one way or the other depending on what’s going on in their dog training at a given point in time. 

The third group uses food, toys or praise to take a dog through a learning phase. This is where the dog actually learns the meaning of a command – for example it learns the meaning of the word “COME”. 

Once the dog understands the meaning of the command the trainer then adds distractions to the program. A good example of this is a dog that has learned the meaning of the command “DOWN - STAY” but now must learn to stay when the owner or someone else tosses a ball in front of the dogs feet or drops a hot dog 4 feet from where he is lying. 

When a dog is disobedient under distraction or does not follow directions this third category of dog trainers teaches a dog that they will be corrected for being disobedient.

ebook : Understanding the Drives of Protection Training

Can I Train My Own Dog in Bite Work? 

Understanding the Drives of Protection Training 

By Ed Frawley

I have studied the art of protection training dogs since 1974. I have bred over 350 litters of protection dogs and produced over 120 dog training videos, many of them on protection dog training. 

Protection training (when it is done properly) is one of the most demanding and difficult dog training tasks that there is. Most dogs can learn obedience, scent work or agility, but few dogs can be trained in handler protection. 

I often hear people say,”My dog has not been trained in protection but I know that if someone came after me he would protect me.” In 99% of the cases this is wishful thinking. In actual fact, most dogs, when threatened, will show avoidance and run away, leaving their handler to fend for themselves. 

The reason for this is based in the temperament of the dogs. In its simplest sense, bite training is founded on the ability of a dog to deal with stress. A good protection dog is taught from a young age to act in an appropriate way when threatened. He is taught that to show avoidance and run away does not solve his problem. 

To be successful in this training, handlers need to have a thorough understanding of the drives that govern a dog’s temperament in protection work. They are: 

1. Prey drive 

2. Defensive Drive 

3. Fight Drive 

4. Avoidance 

If your goal is to learn how to train a dog in protection work, your job begins by understanding these drives and how they relate to each other. If a trainer does not fully understand drive development he may as well not even start this work because he is never going to accomplish anything in protection training. 

If you are new to this sport, you need to listen to what I am about to say about drives and then either watch my video on the subject (The First Steps of Bite Work - Video 101-B) or go to an experienced trainer and learn from them. Every time you watch a dog doing bite work you should be thinking “What drive is this dog in and why?” 

If you can watch an experienced helper work a dog you need to be thinking “What drive does the helper have the dog in?” When he switches drives you need to try and recognize when that happens and why. 

In my video I will define and demonstrate drives by showing you dogs that have good drives and dogs that lack drive. I want the viewer to recognize when a dog has the potential for protection work. 

Probably just as important, I want them to understand when a dog has not inherited the necessary drive and therefore cannot be trained in protection work. 

Right from the beginning, everyone needs to understand that dogs inherit the drives for protection work. It is a genetic factor and neither a factor of training nor a factor of breed. In other words, if a dog does not have the genes for protection work you are not going to train the drives into the dog. Just because a dog is a German shepherd does not mean that it can be trained in bite work. That would be like saying just because I have a horse I think it can run in the Kentucky Derby. 

The first part of the video deals with defining the drives a dog uses in protection work. We then go into the training steps for the dog, the handler and the helper. To be effective in protection training the handler and helper must work as a team. 

Dog Parks

“Dog Parks” 

Why They Are a Bad Idea! 

“It’s Your Job to Protect Your Dog”

By: Ed Frawley

Click here to download ebook

About once every couple of days I get an email from someone asking about problems with their dogs being attacked when they are on walks or running loose at one of the local parks that many cities setup.

People question me on how to deal with overly aggressive dogs that belong to other people and they question me about their own dogs not trying to defend themselves. Some people want to know if they should just let the dogs work out the problems themselves.

I want to go on record as saying that the concept of ”Dog Parks” was well intended but a bad idea, especially when dogs are allowed to run off-leash. I do not recommend people take their dogs to these places.

The average dog owner does not understand pack structure or how strong the pack instincts are in their pet. These drives click into high gear when a dog is taken into a park with other dogs. When new dogs come into parks look they are viewed not as visitors but as intruders into “the personal territory of the dogs who come there on a regular basis.” This leads to territorial aggression.

When there is a group of dogs that are allowed to run together, they instinctively try to establish a rank order (or pecking order). If there are several dogs that want to assume a certain rank within the pack there are going to be problems. There is always a good possibility that fights will develop to determine what order various dogs fall in. 

With inexperienced dogs, or dogs that do not have strong temperaments there will be posturing going on before a fight begins. Many times owners can verbally control their dogs and warn them to back off. But all too often dogs that have fought before will launch into a full-fledged attack. These dogs have learned that a fast attack is often the best defense. In other words, they have learned to be good fighters.

You cannot assume that every dog in the park is a well-mannered, well-trained pet. Just because you see it playing with other dogs does not mean that it will play with your dog. The issue of rank has already been settled with these other dogs and the game may be going according to their rules. Your dog will not know the rules and can easily get into trouble.

I get emails from people who are disappointed in their puppy or young dog because it shies away from other dogs and shows avoidance to other dogs they meet on walks or in parks.

Most new owners don’t understand that their dogs EXPECT THEM to be “their pack leader.” In the wild the pack leader protects its pack. Your young dog instinctively expects you to protect it. When a handler does not protect his dog the dog is in conflict and loses confidence. If threatened before it is mature, these young dogs will show avoidance to strange dogs and strange situations. I am sure that what happens is that the pup learns that its owner is not going to step in and help, so it’s on its own. This breaks down to a young dog becoming unsure in other situations. After all, if his best friend and pack leader will not protect him who will have learned that a fast attack is often the best defense. In other words, they have learned to be good fighters.

When you stop to think about it, normal people would not expect their young children to fight adults that were threatening them. So why do people expect their young dogs to show aggression to older dogs or even dogs of their own age? In most cases, the owners simply lack the understanding of pack drives and dog training.

People get caught in the trap of thinking they have a German Shepherd from working police K-9 bloodlines and by God it should be tough!! Well, it doesn’t work that way.

If new owners do everything right when their pup is young the dog can grow up to be a confident,
strong protection dog if it has the genes to allow this to happen. But in the hands of the wrong person the same dog can grow up to be a basket case. This is one of the reasons I do not guarantee temperament in the pups I sell. Too many people out there lack common sense or the experience to properly train a dog.

So when your dog is approached by a dog that looks like it may be aggressive you need to take the aggressors role. Verbally tell the dog in a deep voice to get out of there. If another dog attacks your dog you need to do what I explain in my article on Breaking Up A Dog Fight. If I were to walk a dog in the city, I would not do it without a can of pepper gas to use on any dog that even looks cross-eyed at my puppy. I would not hesitate to physically go after a dog that approaches my pup. The only ones that would be allowed to come close would be dogs I know for a fact are well- mannered, friendly soles that will be tolerant and play with my puppy.

Ebook : Diarrhea in Puppies

writted by Ed Frawley

Click here to download ebook


I have bred dogs since 978, over 340 litters of German Shepherds. This translates into raising a lot of puppies and a fair bit of experience with puppy diarrhea. Over the years I have seen my share of sick dogs and puppies. One of the most common problems we see with puppies is diarrhea. 

This articled is intended to help people come to terms with puppy diarrhea. It is not intended to diagnose all of the causes of diarrhea or even to tell the reader how to cure the problem under every circumstance. It is simply intended to pass on some of the knowledge I have gained over the years when my puppies get sick. 

I will explain the different kinds of diarrhea and pass on some of the options that I have learned that can be used by pet owners to control the problem of puppy diarrhea. 


  • - Normal Logs 
  • - Pudding Diarrhea- soft stools that will mound up 
  • - Brown Water Diarrhea 
  • - Brown Water Diarrhea with blood 

We all strive for our dogs to have normal stool. If my dogs have a normal temperature (0 to 0 degrees 

Fahrenheit in dogs) and if they are laying logs I know that these are two important indications that the dogs are healthy. There are always exceptions to this rule (i.e. a dog with cancer) but in general this is a pretty accurate statement. 


If a dog gets diarrhea as a result of parasites, the most common causes are Coccidia or Giardia. Both will cause diarrhea, but each requires different medication. 

All dogs have some level of Coccidia in their gut. When a dog is stressed (i.e. being shipped, moving into a new environment etc) the stress can cause the Coccidia to bloom and flair up causing diarrhea. The solution is to give the dog ALBON. How much and how it is administered is a question for your vet. 

Humans get Giardia when they drink water that has fecal matter in it. When you go camping and drink water from a stream you can get Giardia. When dogs get Giardia they need to be treated with METRONIDAZOLE. It is difficult for a Vet to diagnose Giardia from a stool sample. It is best if the dog is at the vet who gets the stool sample right from the rectum of the dog. By doing this the sample is fresh and it’s easier to see the Giardia. 

Both Coccidia and Giardia need to be diagnosed by a Vet and the medication needs to be dispensed by a Vet. 


When a dog has pudding diarrhea I know that there is something going on with the dog. Pudding sends up a small red flag and my kennel staff knows they need to tell me when they see it. That dog needs to be monitored until it is back to laying logs. 

Pudding diarrhea can be caused from: 

• changing the food our dogs eat 

• over feeding the dog 

• eating garbage 

• stress 

• exercise or excitement 

The fact is that when I see pudding diarrhea I start to ask myself why it’s happening. 

When I see pudding diarrhea I have my kennel staff add a little canned pumpkin to their daily food ration. Canned pumpkin not only helps firm up stool’s on dogs it also helps when they are constipated ( a strange thing - it helps in both ways). 

If you feed a natural diet it is a simple thing to add pumpkin. The dogs will easily accept it. If you feed a kibble diet they may not want to eat it. In which case you may have to think about medication if the pudding gets too loose. 

Some of the options are Kaopectate, Imodium AD (A full human dose either in liquid or pill). 

You could also try a product called DiaBack. This is a homeopathic remedy that works for bacterial diarrhea symptoms. This can be used against e-coli, salmonella, diet, water changes, environment change, stress, or food allergies. 


Brown water diarrhea is a serious situation; it’s a sign of a sick puppy. 

Brown water diarrhea cannot be ignored. When a puppy has water diarrhea you need to be very careful that the pup does not get too dehydrated. If you cannot stop the diarrhea within 4 hours you need to get it to a vet. 

What I recommend new puppy owners do when they get their dog is to become familiar with what a healthy puppy feels like. By that I mean learn how loose his skin is. A healthy well hydrated pup has loose skin on his back. 

You can grab it and it will pull up and away from the muscle structure of the dog. When a pup begins to get dehydrated the skin feels tight. It is more difficult to pull it away from the body mass. 

When this happens you need to re-hydrate this pup as quickly as possible. Start by making sure he has plenty of water to drink. You can also give the pup Pedialyte. 

Go to the baby section of Wal-Mart and buy unflavored Pediatric Electrolyte. If the pup will not drink this by itself then try adding a little chicken broth (found in the soup section at the grocery store). 

When a dog has diarrhea it is a good idea to take the dog off solid food for a day. This allows the gut to rest. Dogs and pups can easily go for a day without food. They cannot go without water. So a dog that is drinking plenty of water is not as serious as a dog that will not drink. 

If a pup will not drink then it needs to go to your vet. The pup needs to go on IV fluids and receive the appropriate medical treatment. 


If you see brown water diarrhea with blood in it you have a medical emergency. You need to get this puppy to the vet right now. If you wait for a day or two you very possibly could have a dead puppy. 

Pups can dehydrate and die within 4 to 48 hours unless they have medical treatment. It is beyond the scope of pet owners to deal with blood in diarrhea. 


One thing I would recommend is to be sure that you don’t allow your Vet to give any vaccinations while your dog has any kind of issues with loose stools. You would also not want to give vaccinations while your dog is taking antibiotics. This can lead to long term health problems. 

If your pup continues to have long term soft stools you may want to take a look at what you are feeding the dog. Some dogs can be sensitive to certain dog foods. To determine if this is the problem you should try and isolate the source of the problem. If you are feeding a natural diet stop feeding grains and veggies. Just feed meat for awhile. If you feed kibble, feed something like California 

Natural or Sensible Choice. These foods do not have a lot of ingredients. 

If you are a new puppy owner I recommend that you get the DVD I produced titled YOUR PUPPY 8 WEEKS to 8 MONTHS - it addresses the topic of puppy diarrhea and much more. There are sections on house training your puppy and the DVD goes into detail on the amount of puppy training that legitimately can be initiated with a young puppy. 

Ebook : Dealing with the Dominant Dog

By Ed Frawley

Click here to download

Before you begin to read this article I want to point out that I wrote this article back in the 1990’s. 

In December of 2005 I finished my 3 1/2 hour training DVD of the same topic. This DVD was 5 years in the making. I have produced over 100 dog training DVD’s and think this may be my best. 

The information in this eBook and the DVD is a result of 45 years of experience in training dogs. 

Over 30 years of studying the art of protection training and breeding over 350 litters of working 

bloodline German Shepherds. 

The information in this article encompasses about 20% of the information in the DVD. 

If you have a serious aggression problem with your dog there are two DVDs that you need.

Many people, including experienced dog trainers, misunderstand dominance in dogs. 

There are a lot of people who give very bad information (dangerous information) on how to deal with dominant dogs. Some people don’t have a clue how to deal with a dominant dog, others try what I call the HALTY APPROACH (aka the tree hugger approach) while others feel force is the only way to handle the problem. 

Some think you just “alpha roll the dog and be done with it.” This is a common approach. In most cases, this is also the wrong approach. In addition, many people think that we should only be concerned with dominance in a large dog and not a small dog - this is also wrong. 

While a large dog (like the one in the photo above) can put you in the hospital, a small dog can put your child in the hospital. Dominance of any kind needs to be dealt with and if not eliminated at least controlled in ALL dogs. 

I have owned a number of extremely dominant male dogs over the past 40 years. These dogs have forced me to study dominance. I look at dominance in a different way today than I did 20 years ago. I have learned that dominance is often (not always) easier to control by using your brain and controlling the environment the dog is placed in. 

No one likes to get bit. I look at the scars on the arms of many of my friends and consider myself lucky. I have never had a serious dog bite, yet I have handled some very dominant aggressive animals. This includes more police dogs than I can remember. 

When I ask people about these scars, I always get the same answer: “I made a mistake with that dog.” Getting “dog bit” comes down to making mistakes in how we handle our dogs in a given situation. 

One of the biggest mistakes new dog owners make is to fail to realize that their family pet is a pack animal. The fact is most dog owners don’t even have a clue what this means, much less understand how strong pack drive is in their family dog. Their lack of understanding of this very important issue is what gets them in trouble. 

One of the best ways to start to learn about dominance is to study pack behavior in wolves. 

Look at the research done on wolf packs. A wolf pack always has a dominant pair of animals. 

Wolves don’t maintain their dominant position by fighting with pack members every day; they do it through subtle means. Body posture and attitude play a major factor in maintaining a dominant pack position.

Ebook : Dealing with the Aggressive Dog

writted By Ed Frawley

Click here to download : Dealing with the Aggressive Dog

The TV show 20-20 recently aired a segment on aggressive dogs biting people. I learned of this from an e-mail prior to the show. The individual (who did not sign their name) begged me to write a letter to 20-20 complaining about them daring to do a show criticizing dogs biting people. Needless to say I did not respond to the e-mail but I did watch the program. The fact is the show was rather well done and accurate. If I were to criticize anything, I would have liked to see it go into more detail on overly aggressive dogs and how to deal with them. 

Here are just a few of the facts that were explained by 20-20: 

  •  90% of dog bites happen to people who know the dogs 
  •  Most of the dogs that bite are the family pets 
  •  60% to 70% of dog bites are to children or the elderly 
  •  40% of the bites to children result in loss offacial tissue (lips, cheek etc.) 
  • 1/2 of the claims made on homeowners insurance are dog bites claims 
  • Over aggressiveness in dogs has a number of different causes that all can be traced back to 2 different areas: poor breeding or poor socializing. 

An over aggressive dog does not just rear its ugly head one day and become a monster. 

Throughout its life it has displayed warning signs that it is not a normal friendly pet. As a youngster it may have acted like a timid animal that wanted nothing to do with strangers or strange places. Or it could have slowly developed into a bully after growling at people who came near its toys or food dish. We can’t really blame the average pet owner for missing many of the early warning signs. 

If someone has never raised a dog before, he has enough problems teaching a puppy not to pee on the floor or to come when called. But this same pet owner still has the responsibility to recognize and deal with their adult dog that becomes overly aggressive at inappropriate times. 

There are a number of different types of aggression that dogs will display. Below I have listed the main areas of aggression. I then explain how to deal with the problems related to each type of aggression. Understanding where aggression has its roots will help people understand the methods used in ntrolling the problem.

Types of Aggression:

  • Dominant Aggression 
  •  Territorial Aggression 
  •  Fear Aggression 
  •  Prey or Predatorial Aggression 

Dominant Aggression: 

Many people think it’s cute when a young puppy growls and snaps at fingers that get to close to the food bowl or toys. They laugh and show their friends how tough this little pup is going to be when it grows up. 

What they don’t understand is that this dog is showing the early signs of dominance. The truth is that this pup is probably going to grow up to be aggressive to family members in addition to strangers. Early growling can easily develop into an adult that tries to take control of the house. 

Now, if this is an 8 pound Skipper Key there isn’t much chance of that happening, but if it’s a baby Rottweiler who is going to grow into a 120 pound monster then this is a definite problem. 

Dominant Aggression needs to be controlled from the minute it’s recognized, (no matter how young or how small the dog is). I have just written an article titled Dealing with the Dominant Dog. People need to read this article if they feel that their dog falls into this category.

ebook : Bottle Feeding and Hand Raising Puppies

Writed By: Ed Frawley

Click here to download ebook 

When you view this eBook in PDF format. Click on BOOKMARKS on the top left side of your PDF 

reader, these bookmarks are eBook chapters. 

Ed has owned German Shepherds (GSD) for over 45 years. Since 1978 he has bred over 350 litters of German working bloodline GSD’s. His dogs work in law enforcement, as S&R dogs, as competition Schutzhund dogs, and as family companions and protectors.

Since 1980 Ed has produced over 120 dog training videos and DVD’s. He was a police K-9 handler for 10 years, competed in several dog sports, including AKC obedience and Schutzhund. In addition he has built one of the top dog training supply businesses in the world.

I have bred over 350 litters of GSD’s in my 30 year breeding career. Over the years we have done our share of caring for newborns that need help. We have also come up with our own newborn puppy formula that I think is the best we have seen.

You can make our formula at home and it has 11 calories per CC.

The problem with commercial formula that you buy at your vet is that it only has about 1 or 2 calories per CC. In my opinion this is not enough nutrition to provide for adequate growth.

We have used this formula many times and it works better than any others that I have tried.

If you are hand raising puppies and they develop medical problems you will need to contact your vet. Please do not email me and ask what to do. It would be inappropriate for me to guess at the medical needs of your sick puppy.

Here are some general rules for bottle feeding puppies:
  • Always boil your water before using - allow time to cool. 
  • Burp your pups after feeding. 
  • A pup may have little bubbles by his mouth but there should not be milk running out of his mouth. 
  • When the bottle is held upside down the milk should drip out - NOT FLOW OUT in a stream - pups that get milk in their lungs will get pneumonia and more than likely die. 
  • Calorie intake needs to be adjusted according to growth of puppies. A general rule of thumb (unless someone has a better idea) is 1 CC per OZ. of body weight every 3 hours. 
  • You must have an accurate scale to weigh pups if you are going to get the best success. Use a kitchen food scale. The ones with grams is what we use in our kennel. It is easy to see any weight gain or loss. Keep a record that you can easily refer to. 
Another article to consider - Save Your Puppy’s Life

Bottle Feeding Recipe
11 Calories per CC
  • 10 oz. of canned evaporated milk or goat’s milk (not pasteurized cow’s milk - this will cause scowers - dogs cannot drink normal cow’s milk) Goats milk is by far the best to use. Wall Mart sells it. 
  • 3 oz. sterilized water (baby water or boiled water) this is not needed if using goat’s milk 
  • 1 raw egg yolk 
  • 1 tablespoon regular mayonnaise (optional) 
  • 1 cup of whole yogurt (avoid skim or fat free) 
  • 1/2 Tsp Karo Syrup or Corn Syrup 


Place ingredients in a blender and blend or use a wire whisk. Be careful to not over blend and create a milk shake full of bubbles and then tube bubbles into the puppy.

Power by xinh xinh