Stealing: Is Your Dog a Thief?

What is a thief? In the human sense, is a dog capable of stealing? When something of yours is in jaws of a dog, you want it back! How to get it?

Actions you take when your dog runs off with something of yours can create grave behavior problems in the dog-or improve the dog's training and your relationship. For either result you'll put in the same amount of time. Knowing what to do lets you shape the outcome.

Why Do Dogs Carry Things Off?

A dog's reasons for carrying something are fairly simple, but not always obvious to humans. Dogs have no way of knowing the value things have for us. Money means nothing to a dog.

Wild dogs often need to carry food from where they find it to where they will eat it. They bury some to eat later. They carry food to pups and sometimes to other members of the pack. In some cases they eat the food, travel to the pups, and regurgitate the food for the pups to eat. Domesticated dogs--at least some of them--have the ability to regurgitate voluntarily in order to transfer food in this way.

Some domesticated dogs bury bones, toys or other items, and some hide the objects in other ways. A dog worried about having a steady food supply may hide food. Sometimes a dog who does it at first in a home will stop after settling in. A dog with pups may do it when she's never done it before.

Whenever you see a dog hiding food, keep in mind that the dog may be feeling insecure or may feel a need to think about providing for the future. To rebuke the dog would likely make the dog feel even more insecure.

Dogs use objects to soothe their mouths by chewing. The jaws apparently are uncomfortable, possibly painful, in the process of setting new teeth. We should be glad that puppy chewing reduces the needle-sharpness of their first teeth! The permanent teeth need to be set in the jaws by chewing, and if this starts the dog on a lifelong habit of chewing appropriate objects, better dental health for life can be the welcome benefit. For you that means a dog with better-smelling breath, sounder teeth, and less frequent need for anesthetized dental cleaning.

Remember that dogs need to chew. When your dog has something inappropriate as a chew item, make a quick switch that ends in your dog chewing something appropriate and getting praised for it. Realize you'll likely have to do this many times and supervise until your young dog forms good chewing habits. Punishment will not help solve this problem, and will result in problems much more serious than chewed possessions.

Besides lifelong dental health, a dog with good chewing habits can use a chew toy to relax. This ability helps dogs control their own emotions in some rather remarkable ways. Instead of bugging you when you're sleeping or reading, your dog may pick up a toy and chew it until the dog falls asleep.

To help develop this ability, be sure to place one or more favorite chew toys in the crate with a young pup. With nothing else to do, the stage is set for the pup to discover that chewing helps bring sleep, and at the same time makes the jaws feel better.

Some people recommend providing only one toy so the dog will focus on that one object for chewing. Others suggest that you rotate toys, making old toys new again when they come back out of storage. Whatever you do, try to provide your dog with a variety of textures in toys to chew, especially textures similar to the human possessions that have interested the dog.

Dogs often "steal" something they notice interests you because they want to play. They'll do this with other dogs, too. Chasing your dog is not a good idea, because dogs who learn to run from humans have played this game in traffic.

Cornering the dog and angrily forcing the object out of the dog's mouth triggers fight-or-flight survival instincts-but gives the dog no flight option. People get bitten this way and damage their dogs' temperaments in the process. The dog has a new reason for running off with the object and for defensive behavior: fear of you.

The dog's playful mood in initiating this game is a perfect training opportunity if you know what to do, and we'll discuss that in a minute. Meanwhile, realize that it's vital not to turn this into a confrontation. Good work with your dog will make these situations easy to handle. In the meantime, trade the dog for something better, and act happy about the deal.

Dogs do sometimes "want" things. Some dogs have favorite toys. Sometimes this behavior may be related to maternal instinct. A heritage from the wild is food guarding, which will be made worse if you force the issue. The trick to handling food guarding is to convince the dog there's no NEED to guard food. Instead of taking food away, you keep approaching the dog as you bring small amounts of food. Meanwhile, though, feed the dog in a private place.

What Not to Do When Your Dog "Steals"

Things that don't work and that cause complications when handling the dog who has your stuff include:

1. Chasing the dog. Running away from people is life-threatening for a dog. Pattern your dog to always come toward you, unless it's a retrieve that involves going out and then coming back.

2. Yelling or punishing the dog for damage. The dog won't learn anything from this except fear. When people return home to find a dog left loose in the house has damaged things, and then freak out at the dog, they may soon find their dog has developed separation anxiety. The damage done before will pale by comparison with damage from a dog suffering separation anxiety.

3. Punishing the dog when you get the object back or when the dog comes to you. Teach your dog to bring things to you and to come to you when called. This learning does not occur when the dog experiences you being nasty when the dog comes to you or you take something from the dog's mouth. Anytime you remove something from your dog's mouth, make the dog happy about giving it to you. Give the dog something nice in return such as praise, games and treats-leave the dog happy about the transaction! The same is true whenever the dog comes to you. A dog who comes to you should be "home free," no matter WHAT the dog has done just prior to coming. Dogs are not going to come to people who penalize them for coming!

4. Corner and punish a dog. Just as you don't want to pattern a dog to run from you, it's dangerous to pattern a dog that being caught by a person can mean being in big trouble. You need to be a "safe place" for your dog, someone your dog can always trust. This will happen only if you behave in a trustworthy way. Lying to a dog doesn't work, because the dog only believes what you do, not what you say.

How to Use "Stealing" as a Training Bonanza

The brain-dog as well as human-is most receptive to learning when in a playful mood. When your dog grabs an object and prances away, enticing you with body language to come and play, you've just been handed a solid gold opportunity to teach your dog one of the most important advanced behaviors: the retrieve.

What's your first move? Instead of getting mad, join the game! Instead of chasing the dog, run from the dog. Make it the dog's challenge to chase you and persuade you to take the object. Have something handy to give the dog in exchange or to throw for the dog to pick up, carry, and hopefully bring to you. Get happy! Have fun! This is part of the great joy of having a dog. Don't miss it!

All of this fun gives you the opportunity to develop a language of retrieving with your dog. As you play together, associate words with the dog's actions of "pick it up," "get it," "go get it," "hold it," "bring it," "put it in my hand," etc.

Retrieving is the best game to play with a dog. It builds cooperation, brings the dog to you, enhances communication between you and the dog, conditions the dog to give things to you, and provides the dog with exercise.

It's Your Choice

It's no exaggeration to say that people have ruined the temperaments of their dogs by responding harshly when dogs "steal." Don't make this mistake. Recognize the golden opportunity presented to you when your clever dog picks up an object and runs around with it. The dog is ready to learn. Be ready to teach! In the process, you'll learn, too, and you and your dog will both be the winners.

Stop Dog Jumping Up On People

Dogs jumping up on people is at best an embarrassing, annoying habitand at worst a danger for all involved.

What starts out as a cute habit in young puppies often escalates into a big problem that can be very difficult to correct. If you can't stand your much loved dog jumping on you, just imagine what visitors to your home must think?

Dog Jumping Up - Annoying:Your dog jumps all over you every time you come home, on visitors to your home or just when you've put on freshly cleaned and ironed pants! 

Dog Jumping Up - Dangerous:Any small child or elderly person who crosses path with your dog. Depending on the size of your dog, anyone could be in danger of being knocked off their feet.

Why Do Our Dogs Jump Up On People?

Excitement, they're just showing you that they are happy to see you.

Your dog could be seeking your attention and has been rewarded with it by jumping up in the past.

To assert dominance over you or guests. This is a rare one but can happen.

General Tips For Correcting Dog Behavior Problems - Jumping UpAlways keep in mind that your dog doesn't understand that the jumping up behavior is "inappropriate". It's up to you to clearly communicate this to your dog.

Start as early as you can. It's much easier to prevent behavior problemssuch as dogs jumping on people, than to correct ingrained existing habits.

Punishing or hitting a dog for jumping up just doesn't make sense and will never work. Your goal, and your best chance of stopping your dog from jumping up is to clearly communicate that jumping up is always an unacceptable behavior.

Never reward a dog that jumps up on people by giving them theattention they are seeking. Rewarded behavior is reinforced behavior, meaning it will become more common.

You have to send a consistent message to your dog in all circumstances. Make it simple for your dog and eliminate any confusion. This means that everybody who comes into contact with your dog has to reinforce the same message. It's pointless and unfair if you give your dog a cuddle and attention when he jumps up on you, but then yell at him when he jumps up on a delivery man.

Don't give your dog what he/she wants (attention) every time he jumps up and you'll find the behavior decreases.

How To Stop Your Dog From Jumping Up

Depending on what stage you're at with the jumping up problem, you should find one of these training techniques will do the trick. In most cases you will see some positive results in a matter of days. These are my favorite methods which I have successfully used to stop my dogs from jumping:

When you see that your dog is ready to launch up at you, turn your body away from him. This will make your dog miss you, or at the very least deflect him off you. During this process don't make any eye contact with your dog and don't say a thing. Ignore your dog and make it clear to him that when he jumps he gets nothing from you.

When your dog has settled down and stops jumping, you then initiate some contact with him. Get down to his level and lavish him with praise and a nice scratch behind the ear. If you are consistent and persistent with this method, your dog will soon learn that staying on all four legs is a much better alternative!

The next method is the one I prefer to use with my dogs. In situations where your dog is excitable and prone to jumping up, give him something else to do. In these situationsI instruct my dogs to "sit" - this is sometimes referred to as "alternate behavior training".

So instead of jumping around like lunatics, my dogs sit patiently awaiting my attention (which I always reward them with). This is the dog obedience training guide I follow when training my dogs - dog training membership site. You can also use go to your spot for the same purpose.

Many dog trainers use and recommend correcting jumping up problems with apinch collar (sometimes called a prong collar). This technique is most suitable for bigger, strong willed breeds like German Shepherds and Rottweilers. The key is to leave the pinch collar on whenever you are around your dog and have a short leash attached to it. At the moment your dog jumps, give a short sharp snap downwards on the leash. This tightens the collar and creates a negative association to your dog. It is said to replicate the correction that dogs use between themselves. Never pull on the leash for more than a second or two, and never hurt your dog. When used the right way the pinch collar should not leave a mark on your dogs neck. Your dog will learn very quickly that when he jumps up on people, it will be an unpleasant experience. I believe this is an extreme method and would only consider it as a last resort for a dog who is jumping up dangerously.

The good thing about jumping up problems in dogs is that they areusually an easy fix. As long as you are determined to correct the problem and follow the above training techniques consistently you should be on the right track.

Dogs Play Biting

It's important to know the difference between biting, nipping, or mouthing that is employed during play, and when it's more serious. While a dog or puppy may growl and bark during play, as long as there is plenty of loose and wiggly body movements, you are probably still in the play zone. Stiff and rigid dog bodies usually indicate that events have taken a dark turn. If you ever feel unsafe or threatened, simply end the game. Wait until the dog has settled or walks away before you leave the area. Seek the services of a qualified dog behavior specialist, an applied animal behaviorist, or a veterinary behaviorist for further advice.

Play-biting is recognized as a non-aggressive act. It can happen during vigorous play interaction with another animal or with a person. There is no reason to be alarmed by this behavior. Still, it can hurt and it should be modified.

Puppies (and some adult dogs) need to be taught how to control their mouths and wild play behavior. Since human beings are not covered in thick skin and fur like other dogs, dog teeth can make direct contact with sensitive skin. When this happens, say "OUCH!" in a sharp, short tone. Do not move away from pup as this may only serve to cause your dog to chase you. Do not re-engage your pup in play until your dog has sufficiently settled. Soon pup will learn that rough play ends his fun.

It is also recommended to use a toy to play with your pup. Direct your puppy's mouth to the toy and he/she will learn to grab a toy when feeling frisky.

Most dogs are pretty good at letting a pup or other adult dog know when play has gotten out of line. But don't wait until it breaks out in melee. Interrupt your dog when you notice that he/she is thinking of getting rowdy. Redirect your dog's play to a toy or ask him/her to settle. Allow your dog to join back in the fun after calming.

dogs bark excessively? causes

Barking is a normal behaviour for dogs and an important means of communication. However, when dogs bark excessively they become a nuisance to their owners and the neighbourhood. Before you can successfully manage a barking problem you will need to determine the cause of the barking. Your neighbours may be able to tell you how often your dog barks in your absence.

Dogs bark for a variety of reasons and it is important to work out why your dog is barking excessively. Once the underlying cause and 'triggers' for the barking are identified, training techniques can be used to treat the excessive barking.

Some of these reasons include:

Boredom

Dogs that are left alone all day with nothing to do often resort to barking out of boredom. Boredom barkers will bark continuously and may also exorcise their frustration on your flower beds. To tackle boredom barking you should start by ensuring that your dog is receiving enough exercise. If you take your dog for a good walk in the morning he will be more likely to rest until you come home. You should also make sure that your house and garden are sufficiently enriched with fun toys and puzzles to keep him entertained when you are not home. Try putting some of your dog’s daily food allowance into a Kong toy or treat ball so he has to work to retrieve his snacks. Keep his toys in a toy box and alternate the toys he has access to each day. Hide his toys and some treats around the garden to encourage him to forage or if he likes to dig provide a sand pit to divert his instincts away from your garden. If your dog has any play mates in the neighbourhood you might alleviate boredom by inviting them over for the day.

You may also consider organising a 'dog walker' to walk your dog in the middle of the day while you are at work or a 'dog minder' to keep your dog company when you are away for long periods. You may also consider utilising your local 'doggy day care' services.

Separation anxiety

Dogs are pack animals and it is normal for them to become anxious when they are left alone for the first time. Take care to teach your dog how to cope with being left alone at a young age. Begin by sending your dog outside for short periods of time while you are still at home. Make sure he has a toy to play with or raw bone to chew on while he is outside (see knowledgebase article on feeding dogs) so the experience is a positive one.

Gradually extend the length of time you are leaving your dog alone. When you do leave the house make sure that he has somewhere safe to retreat to such as a kennel. Make sure that he receives plenty of exercise and that he has a supply of toys and treats to keep him entertained while you are away. Do not fuss over your dog when you come home – make sure both your departure and return are quiet and unexciteable. Most dogs will adjust to periods of time alone, however some become severely stressed and may begin to bark incessantly and even self mutilate/injure themselves. If your dog suffers from separation anxiety you will need to manage the condition in consultation with a veterinary behaviourist. Please also read the knowledgebase article about separation anxiety.

Fear

Dogs can also bark due to fear. They may be afraid of people coming near their territory or fearful of noises. particularly at night which may stimulate anxieties. Dogs can also be fearful of fireworks, thunderstorms and lawnmowers etc

Territorial behaviour

It is natural for your dog to want to warn you, the leader of the pack, about potential intruders. Your dog may not be able to distinguish between welcome visitors, people strolling past your home and intruders. Try and use predictable passers-by such as the postman to change your dog’s association from territory protection to a positive experience. Try and preempt the postman’s arrival and offer your dog a delicious treat or favourite toy. Only reward your dog when he/she is calm and not barking. With time your dog may begin to associate a person passing the house with something good rather than someone to protect you from.

If your dog barks at your neighbours when they are in their garden it is probably also because he is protecting your territory. Again, make sure you have some tasty treats at hand so that your dog associates your neighbours with the food (only give the treat when your dog is calm and not barking). You may also consider asking your friendly neighbours to treat your dog and supply them with their own stockpile – this is preferable to having them yell at your dog in frustration - yelling at a barking dog will only tend to reinforce the barking and protective behaviour. Barking is also reinforced when owners yell or scold their own barking dog - this is called negative reinforcement and should be avoided. Successfully treating excessive barking relies on positive reinforcement - that is, reward good behaviour and avoid reinforcing 'unwanted' behaviour.

If your dog is barking at the dog next door arrange a meeting time and supervise play between the two. Fun play time should quell fear-related territorial behaviour and alleviate boredom. Do not ignore or scold territorial barking as your dog will become confused and anxious if his attempts to protect you are negatively received. You might also find that one day your dog alerts you to a real threat!

Attention-seeking behaviour

Dogs can bark when trying to call out to their human pack member or when bored through being left alone for long periods of time or having nothing to do while its humans are at work/away from the home.

You can modify attention seeking barking by ignoring bad behaviour and rewarding good beahviour. When your dog barks for attention he must be completely ignored – avoid eye contact, even leave the room. Praise and pat your dog when he is calm and quiet so he realises that this is the behaviour required to secure your attention. You can also give your dog a food treat when he/she is calm and not barking. This rewards good behaviour and does not reinforce 'unwanted' behaviour.

Communication

Dogs can bark as a means of communication. They may bark when calling out to other dogs or respond to other barking dogs (being a pack animal) or when communicating with its human pack members.

Any noise, no matter how slight can stimulate a barking response for e.g. rustling leaves, a banging window or a knock at the frontdoor/doorbell.

The basis of each of these barking problems is quite different. Likewise, approaches to treating each of them need to be different. Take the time to characterise your dog’s barking habits – does he bark at people passing by? Ask your neighbours whether he barks while you are away from home – does he bark all day or only some of the time? If necessary, manage the problem with help from a behavioural specialist. It is also a good idea to take your dog to the vet for a full health check to make sure there are no medical reasons for his behaviour. Never try and modify your dog’s behaviour by punishing him.

Anti-barking collars constitute a form of punishment and are an unreliable remedy – they do not address the cause of the problem and are easy to abuse. Your dog will be punished for every bark, some of which will be appropriate, and he will not learn an alternative, acceptable behaviour. RSPCA Australia does not recommend the use of these collars.

Stop Dog From Barking Fast

Working out how to stop your dog from barking can be a difficult and time consuming task.

Dogs love to bark. It's a perfectly natural thing for your dog to do, just as it's normal for us humans to speak.

It's when our dogs bark excessively that it becomes a problem for all concerned - including our cranky neighbors.

Considering this, our goal really isn't to stop dog barking altogether, but rather to control the excessive barking.

Keep in mind that there are situations when we want our dogs to bark (and I guess there are also times when I like my chatty aunty to speak!;)

The first step in modifying the behavior of an excessive barker is todetermine the reason why the dog is barking in the first place. Once you've identified this cause or trigger, you can then plan the correct training solution.

Why Do Dogs Bark? Stop Your Dog From Barking Now!

• To express their needs (being bossy).
• Some dogs are bred to bark (some terriers and hounds).
• They are staking out their territory.
• To alert other members of their pack (that's you and your family) of impending danger.
• When playing, just through sheer excitement - this is a very common type of puppy barking.
• Barking at other animals. Depending on where you are in the world, it could be squirrels or possums (I'm in Australia - my dogs go crazy at possums).
• If they are isolated.
• Some dogs bark excessively when separated from their pack (you and your family).
• If they are trapped behind some type of barrier like a fence or window.
• Just for fun!
• To express dominance (puppies normally test you out at some stage with a display of dominance barking).
• They bark because their owners have inadvertently rewarded excessive barking in the past (this is crucial to understand)
• Through boredom or a lack of physical and mental stimulation.
• May feel stressed or uncomfortable for some reason. Things like feeling threatened or if they don't have an appropriate place to sleep can cause excessive barking problems.
• Dogs that haven't been properly socialized often become nuisance barkers.
• May be looking for a response or some attention from their pack.

Another thing to keep in mind is that even though it may appear to you that your dog is barking at nothing, this is not necessarily the case. This is due to the fact that your dog has a much more acute sense of hearing, smell and sight than us humans. Your dog's excessive barking is most probably being triggered by something.

Stop Dog Barking!

 now we've sorted out the reason for your dog's excessive barking, we just need to work out how to control the problem.

The most important piece of advice to remember when trying to modify any dog behavior problem, is that you must clearly communicate to your dog what is acceptable behavior and what is not.

One of the biggest mistakes us dog owners make is to inadvertently reward our dogs excessive barking. We actually encourage and reinforce the barking problem when we commit these three dog training sins:

"Never Reward Your Dog's Barking!"

• Yell and scream at the dog - this just gives them the attention they were crying out for. Plus your dog will most probably just think you are joining in with them, adding to the excitement.

• Let them inside. If your dog is barking his head off outside, then you let him in, this just rewards and therefore reinforces the barking. This also applies to dogs who bark to be released from a crate or bark to make you get up and prepare their dinner!

• If your dog is barking and you react by giving him a comforting cuddle or a treat of some sort, you are definitely encouraging your dog to bark again. By doing this you are communicating to your dog that you are happy with him. You should be making it clear that his excessive barking is inappropriate and won't be tolerated.

Right, lets get stuck into some proven dog training techniques to helpstop your dog from barking. I've listed the most common reasons why your dog may be barking, and added some proven solutions you can try to alleviate the problem.

Dog Goes Crazy Every Time The Phone Rings

This is a very common and annoying time for dogs to bark excessively. Try these training techniques:

• Never yell at your dog.
• Get your dog conditioned (desensitized) to the sound of the phone ringing, don't make it such a big deal. Ring your home number from your cell phone or get a friend to keep calling you. When the phone rings just sit there, don't say or do a thing. Repeat this process over a few days, your dog will probably continue to bark for a while but will give up before long.
• If you give your dog basic obedience training, behavioral problems such as excessive barking are easily controlled. Your dog will look up to you as their firm but fair leader and will be eager to please you in any situation. Teaching the "Quiet!" or "Stop!" obedience training command will soon correct this problem. To learn how to properly train your dog yourself, at home visit dogproblems.com barking fix.
• Another method which is related to the point above is to request analternate behavior each time the phone rings. So instead of your dog barking and being a pest every time you are on the phone you could have him/her "go to your spot" in the corner.
• You may have some success by changing the style and volume of your ring tone.

Dog Barks When You Are Not Home

I'm not going to pretend this type of barking will be easy for you to control, because in reality it is often a difficult and lengthy process.

Always remember that dogs are social creatures, when they are separated from their pack (you) they can become stressed, vulnerable and frustrated. This type of excessive barking is often caused by separation anxiety.

Firstly I'd say just use your common sense and get these dog ownership basics right. Keep your dog well exercised (physical and mental) and provide fresh water, chewing toys and a nice comfortable place to sleep. You can also try to block your dogs view of the street and other distractions/triggers. Basically, make sure your dog is happy.

If you know your dog has been barking while you have been away, you must ignore him for a while when you return home. I understand this is difficult for lots of owners, but otherwise your dog believes that his barking is the reason you came back home to him. Just go about your business for a little while when you arrive home, ignoring your dog. When your dog has settled down, you then initiate contact with him. Please note this method applies to dogs who were barking at the moment you arrived home.

"You Must Convey A Clear & Consistent Message To Your Dog At All Times"

This next technique takes time and patience, but can be a very effective way to stop your dog from barking. It's based on that important rule applicable to all dog training situations. Praise or reward when your dog does something you want to encourage and create a negative association when he does something you don't like.

Leave the house as you normally would, but just hide somewhere nearby. When your dog starts to bark, spray him with water or throw a tin can full of coins or rocks in his direction (this is the negative association). Try to keep out of your dog's sight while doing this if possible. Go and hide again, if he is quiet for a while, go in and reward his good behavior with some praise and maybe a treat. This process may need to be repeated over and over until you have broken the excessive barking habit.

The above techniques have proven to be successful with my own dogs, but if they don't work for you, maybe you could try a Citronella no bark collar. Again this method uses the power of negative association. Every time your dog barks, a fine mist of citronella is sprayed into the air. Most dogs hate the smell, and soon realize if they don't bark, the smell isn't there to bother them. *If you have more than one dog this method is not really a suitable solution. I always advocate some proper training before even considering an option such as a citronella no bark collar.

Dog Barks For Attention Or To Demand Something

This is one excessive barking problem that can be corrected very quickly.

If you establish yourself as your dog's leader in the owner-dog relationship you share, this type of barking problem won't occur. In the process of training you'll also form a strong bond together based on trust and mutual respect. To learn the best way to obedience train your dog visit dogproblems.com membership site.

You can also teach your dog the "Stop" or "Quiet" command to help prevent this annoying type of problem barking. When your dog is barking simply say "QUIET!" at the same time as you wave a tasty treat in front of your dog's nose. After you dog is quiet for a few seconds you can then give him/her the treat. Eventually you will only need to say "QUIET!", without the need for a treat.

Another proven method to help stop your dog from barking for attention is to simply ignore your dog. Your dog will no doubt become frustrated and bark a whole lot initially, but once he realizes that it is not getting him anywhere, he will stop. Warning - this training method can be hard on the ears for a while! Remember that a dog's behavior that is not rewarded and reinforced will become less prevalent.

Stop Your Dog Barking At The Door

Dog Barks At Passers ByWorkers such as the Postman or a delivery driver are constantly being barked at and harassed throughout their day.

Your dog perceives these type of people as intruders or a threat to their territory. When your dog barks in this situation he is rewarded every time, as the intruder goes away. Your dog is then very pleased that he has averted this "threat", which leads him to do it again and again. His behavior is reinforced and therefore can be a very difficult problem to extinguish.

If possible, you could try to block your dogs vision or access to the area where these people pass by.

Dog obedience training is the best solution to this type of excessive barking. Once you have your dog properly obedience trained, you will be able to communicate to him that this is unacceptable behavior. 

If your dog consistently barks at a particular person, you may need to use this person to help modify your dogs behavior. Just say your dog gets really agitated each time the postman arrives. Have a chat to your postman and give him some of your dog's very favorite treats. Each time he delivers mail to your house, he can also deliver a tasty treat to your dog. In your dogs mind the postman goes from being a threat, to a welcome guest.

How To Stop Your Dog From Barking

In extreme cases of excessive barking, where all else has failed, some people advocate debarking surgery. I've never needed to go down this path with any of my dogs, and don't think I ever would. But if you have come to the end of the line and think you have run out of options, you could discuss debarking surgery with your Veterinarian. Hopefully your Vet will come up with some other options before taking this drastic step.

Proper dog obedience training is the key to solving any behavioral problems (including stopping your dog from barking), and also to building a strong bond with your dog.

Train your dog at home with this comprehensive dog training course -dogproblems.com. It's a fantastic community of dog lovers who strive to raise and train their dogs in a positive, reward based and non-violent manner.

Best Tips to Stop Dog Barking

Remember, barking is natural! It's an important means of communication for dogs. But sometimes problems can develop. As the pack leader, it's your job to step in and control excessive barking. Here are my 5 tips to help you stop nuisance barking for good.

1. Correct dog problem behavior and follow through.

Tell your dog to stop barking using a look, a sound, or a physical correction. But don't stop there. Your dog may pause and then go right back to what he was doing. His body relaxed, but his brain was still on alert. Be patient. Wait until your dog completely submits before you go back to what you were doing.

2. Stay calm when trying to stop dog barking.

Constant barking can be irritating, but you won't be able to correct the dog behavior problem if you are frustrated. Animals don't follow unbalanced leaders. In fact, your dog will mirror your energy. If you're frustrated, he will be, too! And barking is a great release for that frustrated energy. Take a moment to curb your own internal barking first.

3. Stake your claim to stop the barking.

Is your dog barking over and over again at the same object, person, situation, or place? Then you need to step up and claim that stimulus as your own. Use your body, your mind, and your calm-assertive energy to create an invisible wall that your dog is not allowed to cross. Do it with 100% dedication and focus, and the results may surprise you.

4. Stop the barking by challenging your dog mentally and physically.

Excessive barking is often the result of pent-up energy. If this is the case, the solution is simple: release that energy in more productive ways. Does your dog receive a daily walk? Can you make the walk more challenging with a bicycle, a backpack, or by walking on an incline? Can you provide more mental challenges, such as herding, agility training, or simple obedience games? There are many, many ways to increase the challenges in your dog's life. Find one that you enjoy that your dog can participate in safely.

5. Get professional help to stop dog barking.

When you brought this dog into your life, you made a commitment to provide the care he needs. Prevent dog barking, and other dog behavior problems by calling in a canine professional to help him cope with a behavior issue.

EXPLANATION OF HOW DOGS LEARN

Dogs are very efficient in their behavior. If a behavior is inherently pleasurable (eating, playing, chasing, etc), or if doing a particular behavior gets something pleasurable for the dog (like food, attention, or social interaction), the dog will display that behavior more and more often. If a behavior is not pleasurable, if it does not work to obtain something pleasurable, or results in something unpleasant, the dog will use that behavior less and less. Whenever you interact with a dog, you’re constantly giving her feedback about what works to get the good stuff and what doesn’t work. If a dog jumps up and gets attention, even if the attention is that you push him, then he knows that jumping “works” -– that is, it gets him attention and social interaction. If a he accidentally bites you in play and you don’t end the game, then he learns that play biting “works” or at least is not a serious impropriety -– the fun continues. So you can see why it is very important to manipulate the consequences of your dog’s behavior to be sure he is getting the right messages from you. This is a big responsibility.

The good news is that we can easily use the way dogs learn to “sculpt” their behavior, by consistently rewarding the desirable behaviors we see and ignoring or interrupting the undesirable behaviors. Gradually, you will see your dog behaving more and more in desirable ways, and less and less in undesirable ways.

But what about, for example, dogs who jump all the time? Well, that’s just it: no dog ever jumps literally all the time. Even with a dog that jumps a lot, there’s a moment when she isn’t jumping, so reinforce that moment with attention and some food! If you don’t like what she’s doing, show her what you would like her to do and then reinforce the new behavior.

Repetition and patience are key elements in dog training. There’s never a magic moment when the dog understands the meaning of our requests. Animals gradually become conditioned through lots of repetition that certain behaviors in certain situations will or will not “pay off.” 

We use these principles -– rewarding desirable behaviors and ignoring undesirable behavior or removing rewards when the animal behaves in an undesirable way -– in Open Paw training, and do not use physical punishment. Dogs make associations with you and with the situation every time you interact with them. Thus, an unfortunate side effect of using punishment to try to train animals is that, while they may learn to respond to cues, or to stop doing something you don’t like, they may also form negative associations to you, to the situation, the environment, to people in general, or to training. 

Furthermore, often you don’t get the result you wanted from trying to use punishment to train. Take for example a dog jumping on people. It’s not a desirable behavior to people, but in the dog-dog world this is usually an appeasing, friendly greeting gesture. If you use punishment to try to get the dog to stop jumping, you have to use a severe enough punishment the first time that it effectively outweighs the positive associations of the friendly greeting gesture. If the punishment is not severe enough, then, you are not effectively damping that behavior. You may even unintentionally be rewarding it. Furthermore, even if you succeed in punishing severely enough, some dogs may try to stop the punishment by offering an appeasement gesture rather than by stopping the undesirable behavior– so the result might be more rather than less jumping.

So, using punishment to train is pretty inefficient, difficult to do correctly, and, in order to be effective, must be severe. A much more efficient, friendlier way to train is to teach the dog a desirable, incompatible behavior: ask yourself, “If this is ‘wrong,’ what is ‘right’? In the case above, you could train the dog to sit to greet people instead of jumping. 

Please keep in mind, physical punishment can jeopardize your relationship with your dog or cause her to become defensive or fearful. Surely that is not your goal. Besides, dogs aren’t trying to be “bad” when they do something you don’t approve of; they are just being dogs. It is unfair to punish a dog for being a dog. It is up to you, as the human with control of all of the resources, to sufficiently and benevolently teach your dog the rules of the house and to train him to meet your expectations.

Dogs Learn

For years dog trainers and behaviorists have tried to convince us that there is more to the dog than meetsts the eye. They would like to convince us that the average owner or dog lover could never understand what professionals know. I am convinced, happily, that this is just not so.

The ancestor of the domesticated dog is the wolf
Science has recently discovered that domestication of canines possibly began as early as one hundred thousand years ago, when they most likely closely resembled wolves. Fossil records indicate that approximately 14,000 years ago man, through breeding selection, started to change the conformation of canines at which time they began to look more like the modern dog.

Once only a hunting partner, the dog quickly assumed the additional roles of guard dog and working partner. Finally, within the last 500 years or so, the dog became man’s friend, companion and family pet.

The cooperative, loving nature of the canine and the similar social structures of humans and dogs form a foundation for the unique and enduring connection of two very separate species.

Pack animals, den animals, hierarchal social structure, opportunistic omnivores - all these terms apply to both wolf and dog. Domestication is the key difference between wolf and dog. Therefore, one we must thoroughly examine domestication, when it comes to understanding how dogs learn.

Social Structure
In the litter there is mom and pups - that's it. Mom feeds the pups at regular intervals, and the pups sleep, snuggle with littermates to stay warm and eliminate with the help of mom. Once the pups are able to see and move about freely, there is non-stop play between feedings and naps. This whole process evolves very quickly - within the first 6 to 12 weeks of a pup’s life.

Socialization occurs every day of this period in a pup’s life. Personalities form. Dominance and submissiveness come into play. Survival of the fittest becomes the most prevalent instinct. At this stage of a pup’s life, he is more similar to a wolf pup than he will ever be again. The only difference between the wolf and the pup’s lives at this stage is the human (breeder’s or owner’s) daily interaction with the bitch and her pups. To further explain the domestication process, it is important to know what is occurring during each of the pup’s developmental stages.

Operant Conditioning Explained
Since dog trainers and behaviorists will attempt to explain the correctness of their training methods by using the terms “operant conditioning,” especially when they oppose the methods used by others, I have included this information.

Operant conditioning is rooted in human psychology and was named by psychologist B.F. Skinner.

Operant conditioning is the modification of behavior brought about over time by the consequences of said behavior. Distinguished from Pavlovian conditioning, operant conditioning focuses on voluntary behavior explained by its consequences, while Pavlovian conditioning focuses on involuntary behavior triggered by antecedents (something that happens or exists before something else.)

According to Skinner "The innate behavior studied by ethologists is shaped and maintained by its contribution to the survival of the individual and species. Operant behavior is shaped and maintained by its consequences for the individual."

There are four situations of operant conditioning. Here the terms "positive" and "negative" are not used in their popular sense. Rather, "positive" refers to addition (+) and "negative" refers to subtraction (-). Also, reinforcers always strengthen behavior; that is what "reinforced" means. Punishment is used to suppress behavior.

1. Positive Reinforcement takes place when a behavior (response) is followed by an appetitive (pleasant) response. Most dog trainers/behaviorist take this literally to mean only food. I have supplied the definition of appetitive below.
ap·pe·tite (plural ap·pe·tites)noun Definitions:1. desire for food: a natural desire for food 2. strong desire: a strong desire or craving for something[14th century. Via French < Latin appetitus "desire" < appetere "seek after" < petere "seek" (see petition)]ap·pe·ti·tive adj

As you can see it can mean anything that is strongly desired; a toy, love and affection, a trip to the Bahamas - name your desire.

2. Negative Reinforcement takes place when a behavior is followed by the removal of an adverse (unpleasant) stimulus thereby increasing that behavior - a negative "reinforcer" reinforces when it is withdrawn. Negative reinforcement is not punishment. An example would be the Skinner box experiment where a loud noise continued inside the rats cage until a lever was pressed which caused the noise to cease.

3. Positive Punishment takes place when a behavior (response) is followed by an adverse (unpleasant) stimulus such as a shock or loud noise which results in a decrease in that behavior.

4. Negative Punishment takes place when a behavior (response) is followed by the removal of a appetitive stimulus, such as taking away a toy, which results in a decrease in that behavior.

Skinners experiments did not involve reflexive, impulsive or instinctive behaviors, as he believed these behaviors existed outside the parameters of operant conditioning.

Many trainers, experts and owners misinterpret the words "negative" and "positive" as they relate to operant conditioning. The easiest explanation is that positive means to add or give and negative means to remove or take away.

Negative and Positive Reinforcement Explained

• Something good can start or be presented, so behavior increases = Positive Reinforcement
• Positive reinforcement means starting or adding Something Good
• Something good can end or be taken away, so behavior decreases = Negative Punishment
• Negative punishment is reducing behavior by taking away Something Good.
• Something bad can start or be presented, so behavior decreases = Positive Punishment
• Positive punishment is something that is applied to reduce a behavior.
• Something bad can end or be taken away, so behavior increases = Negative Reinforcement
• Negative reinforcement increases a behavior by ending or taking away something bad or aversive.

Examples

The dog gets praise and petting when it comes when called - Praise and petting = Positive Reinforcement

The dog has it's beloved bone taken away for growling at its owner when he attempted to move it - Throw the bone away = Negative Punishment

The dog barks and the citronella collar sprays in his face - Citronella Spray = Positive Punishment

The shock stops when the dog sits - No more shock = Negative Reinforcement

There are many things to consider when training a dog while implementing any of the above described methodologies.

Positive Reinforcement
Many owners and trainers often unknowingly reinforce behavior they want to eliminate. A common thing that many owners do is pet their barking dogs in an attempt to calm them down. And I almost always see owners and inexperienced trainers, in an attempt to reassure, talk "sweetly" to dogs that are timid, shy or fearful. A very common thing for owners to do is the give treats to their food-obsessed, begging dogs. These all are examples of positively reinforcing unwanted behavior.
Negative Punishment

Both words are falsely interpreted by many in the dog world as being a bad thing - which they are not necessarily. However, many owners actually negatively punish their dogs and they do not even realize they are doing it. For example: You and your dog are at dog beach and you are ready to go but he's having fun playing chase with the other dogs. But you keep trying to get him to go, "Come Fido!" Come Fido!! - he looks at you but keeps playing. You yell louder "Come Fido!!!" This has now been going on for 5, 10 minutes and you are tired, hungry and getting cold. "COME FIDO!!!!!. He finally gets your message and comes happily running to you. When he gets to you, you grab his collar, connect the leash and promptly leave. You are taking him from a place where he was having fun - something good, and he did something good by coming when called - and not only did you not praise or reward him for coming to you, you removed him from the good thing. You are punishing good behavior. However, negative punishment can be an effective way to correct unwanted behavior - especially when food or toys are involved. For the dog who loves to eat poop, keeping your yard poop-free is a great example of negative punishment. (Conversely, for the dog that likes to dig, filling the hole with your dog's poop can help curb that behavior - an example of positive punishment.)

Positive Punishment
This is the least understood method applied by some trainers and highly and disapprovingly criticized by others. However, it is the most effective way to stop unwanted behavior. The reason being is that dogs easily and quickly make the connection between action and consequences. (For example; if I bark the collar will squirt that strong unpleasant smelling spray.) However, the use of positive punishment must be implemented with accurate timing. The dog must not be punished; rather the behavior must be punished. If your dog peed in the house while you were away at work, and hours after you come home you rub his nose in it, you are punishing the dog and not the behavior. Your dog cannot make the connection hours later. Most importantly, your dog cannot make the connection unless caught in the act of the actual unwanted behavior. And the most important aspect of implementing this method - the dog must always receive positive reinforcement for ceasing the unwanted behavior. Again the timing of the punishment (correction) as well as the timing of the positive reinforcement (reward) is essential.

Negative Reinforcement
Again, often misunderstood by humans but thoroughly understood by dogs. However, this is understood by dogs mostly as relief from the bad thing rather than actual reinforcement as many trainers would like to believe. And it requires that the bad thing that is being removed must often be controlled by the handler or trainer. I found an excellent example on a website for retriever training: "Hold the dummy in front of the dog's mouth. Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. If the dog opens its mouth, roll the dummy in and quickly let off the ear pressure as you do. Praise it. You want it to get the idea that the ear-pinch means, "get that dummy in your mouth!"

Food For Thought
Many trainers only use food as a reward and food deprivation as punishment. Or they use food as a reward and withhold affection as punishment. Yet, they believe and market this as strictly positive reinforcement which it is not. The problem with using food as a reward and depriving it as punishment is that not all dogs are food motivated. Also, you might give your dog treats just for walking in the kitchen or only when he begs. Also, if your dog learns it will get a treat reward whenever you are around, he might not be motivated to respond to others who do not give him treats.

They also use time-outs as a way to stop bad behavior by believing that dogs behave certain ways to get attention. One site I read even stated that mounting, whining/crying, food stealing and mouthing/nipping were a dogs way of seeking attention. Their theory is that if you take your attention away, the behaviors will stop. Is the dog that is sent outdoors as punishment connecting the behavior with the punishment? Will the whining actually stop and will he come back in the house and not jump on you?

Classical Conditioning
Clicker/Food training for dogs really came about because of research being done in the early part of the 20th century involving digestion which ended up becoming a study by Ivan Pavlov regarding Classical Conditioning. I am sure you have heard the saying "bell rings, dog salivates". Pavlov's experiment proved that all animals could be trained or conditioned to expect a consequence on the results of previous experience.

Pavlov began pairing the sound of a bell with giving dogs meat powder. He found that even when the meat powder was not presented, the dog would eventually salivate after hearing the bell. Since the meat powder naturally results in salivation, these two variables are called the unconditioned stimulus and the conditioned stimulus. The bell and the salivation are not naturally occurring (the dog was conditioned to respond to the bell.) Therefore, the bell is considered the conditioned stimulus and the salivation in response to the bell is the conditioned response.

Finally, the excessive, overuse or exclusive use of any one method can eventually fail to improve and progress a particular desired response. The reward can stop being a motivator. The dog might eventually become adjusted to the punishment and increasing it might not garner any better result.
Using the Developmental Stages in the Training Process

Utilizing your dog’s inherent characteristics and natural instincts are the simplest way to teach your dog to live respectfully with you. If you read the article on Developmental Stages, you can see from the different stages of your dog’s development that Mother Nature dictates his physical, mental, emotional and social growth. No where will you find during development the offer of food as a reward or the withholding of food as punishment from your pups first teacher - mom. Neither does she make a clicking sound or shake a can of coins to teach, reward or punish. You will find that she has without a doubt, gently provided affection and praise, as well as a firm correction when warranted. And, her timing is perfect.

How affection, praise and correction truly come into play is when we introduce the canine into our homes. We cannot grab our pups around the neck with our mouths nor should we want to. We are humans. Our dogs know we are not dogs. By attempting to correct our dogs in the same manner another dog would only causes anxiety and fear. This is where leash and collar training becomes such a vital part of the teaching process.

Alpha Dog Myth
A huge misconception in dog training today is the "alpha-dog" theory and that this somehow can be assigned to the human owner in order to gain respect from the dog. Dogs are indeed pack animals. If you have more than one dog, you will certainly see a pecking order - there will be an alpha dog, and subordinate (s). But in wild wolf or dog packs this really only applies to the breeding pair and not in terms of a "leadership" role as we humans would interpret it. And, most importantly, humans are not dogs. Dogs know we are not dogs, and that is that. We do not smell, move, sound or, even remotely look like a dog. So there is no sound reason I have ever been given to believe that any dog views me the way they view an alpha dog.

We humans have never compared ourselves to the alphas of any other species in order to train them. For example, here are other alphas in their species social structures – stallion/horse, bull/elephant, buck/deer. I often use the horse as an example when talking about this concept with my clients. I ask them to imagine what their stable of horses would think if they stepped into the pasture and attempted to behave like a stallion. But, make no mistake about it - dogs quickly figure humans out. Dogs are scientists of human behavior. Their survival depends upon their keen perception.

A canine’s sharp ability to read our body language, interpret our vocal intonations, and sense our mood at any given moment - in a split-second actually - is remarkable and without dispute. They do not need to be trained to be "submissive" to us. As we provide everything for them, dogs really assume this role quite naturally. A dog’s “natural drives" is something that should be examined if you are experiencing difficulties with a dog’s behavior.

I will concede that a dog views its owner, once this is established through bonding and training, in a leadership role - a human leader. No longer needing to hunt for its own food or search for shelter, the companion dog relies upon us for survival. As the survival instinct is hard-wired into the psychology of the dog, and due to its cooperative nature, a dog willingly accepts humans as leader. Where this relationship often goes awry is when well-intentioned owners attempt to obtain leadership or control over the dog using fear, intimidation or by infusing human psychology or reasoning during the developmental stages when imprinting takes place.

I have read on more than one website, and in many books, advice on how to be "alpha" in your dog’s eyes. It is quite possible that this is why so many dogs exhibit aggressive behaviors these days. The advice given usually includes: a) pin your dog down, b) stare your dog in the eyes and growl, c) shake your dog by the neck, d) grab its muzzle, etc. I could go on and on.

There is usually a disclaimer that states, "if while doing these exercises your dog or puppy snaps or growls at you, stop what you are doing and seek professional help immediately." My guess would be you will need to also seek medical attention if you choose to use these techniques on the wrong dog. You will have most likely permanently limited your ability to establish confidence and trust in your dog as well. The relationship between humans and dogs is truly unique and without comparison. Warning: To use any of the methods described above during the first fear impact stage will, in most instances, permanently and negatively alter your dog’s personality.

To my amazement a well-known "dog whisperer" appeared on television the other day demonstrating a technique associated with alpha-dominance theory - often referred to as the "alpha roll". He demonstrated how to deal with an aggressive dog by picking it up by the scruff and pinning it down. I was blown away. Shouldn't a “dog whisperer” know better? Many of my clients were in disbelief as I received numerous phone calls. Not only do I know that this type of training/behavior management is counterproductive, what really concerned me was a call from a new client whose husband decided to give it a try. He almost had his face mangled when the dog, obviously frightened, tried to bite him.

Behaviorists and so-called experts use the alpha dominance aspect of the canine social structure to try to convince us that this is how we can best bond with our dog. To refute this notion, I would use the example of how dogs evolved from wild wolves to domesticated pets. They did this by being able to adapt to our social structure and not the other way around. While still remaining dogs, they have fit into our human environment beautifully. And, while the roles are not equal, the relationship is mutually beneficial. You receive unconditional love and companionship from your dog, and your dog receives care, nourishment and shelter, and yes love, from you.
Communication

The leash and collar attaches us to, yet separates us from, our dogs. It allows for clear communication without creating fear or uncertainty. At the same time it allows us to teach and correct, without getting mean, mad, yelling or hitting. You don’t need to chase your dog down and grab him in order to tower over him with a stern look. On a leash, your dog is a captive student and will respond positively to your neutral corrections combined with generous verbal and physical praise. Quite simply put, your dog can stand near you or roam the distance of the leash. The leash will provide you the ability to take the time to teach, before asking your dog to do something he has not yet learned.

There is also a leash law for dogs. That being said, once a dog is truly trained on-leash, progression to off-leash work could commence. Off-leash dog parks or beaches are wonderful environments for dogs to play and socially interact with one another. But I caution: Allowing an ill-mannered dog to bully the other visitors is unfair and unkind. Using these facilities is a huge responsibility for an owner, and one should be mindful of this when attempting to take an aggressive or overly dominant dog into an off-leash area. Dogs that are in the first fear-impact stage, or pups that are not trained, or are shy or uncertain, are not good candidates for dog park visits. Seek the advice of a trainer or behaviorist first.

Willingness to Please
Dogs learn when the advantages and the disadvantage of their actions are spelled out in black and white. When we do not clearly communicate to our dog where their advantage lies, stress and confusion sets in and learning does not take place. If a dog is allowed to make its own choice, with no guidance from us, the possibility is 50/50 that he will make a correct one. For example, if we allow our dogs to decide where they want to go potty - they will usually choose inside our houses.

Setting up your dog to succeed builds confidence, and a confident dog is a stable companion. It is the trainer’s or handler’s responsibility to provide, during the training/teaching process, a stimulus that is sufficient and clear enough so that the dog understands where the advantage lies. But first we must always take the time to teach. I cannot stress this enough.

Because dogs have an inherent willingness to please, the process of teaching is easily accomplished without the use of food as a bribe, or pain to induce or eliminate a behavior. Patience and consistency are far better tools than the gimmicks and tricks being pushed by today's dog trainers and manufacturers of training aids. A quickly-trained dog is not necessarily a well-trained dog. Nor should it be considered a well-bonded companion. The teaching/training process presents to us the unique and special opportunity to develop a very deep, mutually respectful relationship with our canine companion.

All Dogs Have a Purpose
From the largest to the smallest, all dogs have a purpose. More importantly, dogs need a purpose. For some it might simply be to sit by your side or on your lap as you type away at your computer. Others feel it necessary to keep watch over your children as they play in your yard. And then there is the true working dog that really shows its personality once it has run the agility course, killed the rat in your garage or brought you the morning paper. This sense of purpose is a natural instinct rarely used by today's trainers. In fact, it is often ignored and perhaps even purposefully trained out of the dog. Sad but true.

So many owners desire a "mellow" dog, but choose a breed that has a strong working or herding drive. Then they wonder why the dog trashes their condo while they are at work. The owner seeks the services of a trainer who simply provides methods or techniques that suppress the dog’s inherent talents and skills. I cannot tell you how many vets are prescribing sedatives and anti-depressants for dogs that are exhibiting these anxieties. While it is too late to choose another dog, other options do exist including day care, dog walkers, obedience classes, flyball, agility and other terrific activities. These classes help to shape behavior, as well as allow dogs to expend pent up energy.

The Natural Dog
My Natural Training Method couples positive reinforcement for teaching obedience coupled with positive punishment for correcting unwanted behavior. For example, in order to correct inappropriate behaviors like jumping, nipping, and lunging, I use the leash and collar. (positive punishment.) In addition, I use praise, petting, toys, etc. to reinforce good behavior (positive reinforcement.) However, in my experience, these are not the only training methods that get results. Situationally, I use a variety of other methods and techniques geared toward the individual dog and its owner.

I never use food as a bribe, although I often use it as a lure, (such as when a dog exhibits food aggression) and sometimes as an occasional reward for absolutely no reason. Never have I used pain-compliance or alpha-dominance. In my opinion, it is only used by trainers who think it will result in a quick response or who simply do not understand the psychology of canines.

Quick responses are not an indication that the dog understands. As I see it, because of the strong instinctual "drives" present in all dogs, there are limitations to applying only Operant Conditioning theories or only Classical Conditioning theories with regard to dog training. A drive is an internal mechanism that pushes the dog into taking action. All dogs have certain basic drives. The only real difference among dogs is a matter of degree.

The basic drives are: Prey/Predator, Pack Social, Defense (Fight or Flight). All are deeply situated in the natural survival instincts of the canine. There are other very strong drives that can be detected and developed. According to the laws of operant conditioning, "any behavior that is consistently rewarded every single time will be produced only intermittently and will therefore not be reliable." Using a dog’s "drive" along with operant conditioning can produce much more consistent results. Allowing for these instincts enhances the learning process and using them can strengthen the bond between owner and dog.

Give your dog a job, activity or purpose every day. Make time for play, rest and work and your dog will thrive.

Dogs And Cats Can Live In Perfect Harmony In The Home, If Introduced The Right Way

ScienceDaily (Sep. 9, 2008) — Thinking about adopting a perky little puppy as a friend for your fluffy cat, but worried that they’ll fight -- well, like cats and dogs?

Think again. New research at Tel Aviv University, the first of its kind in the world, has found a new recipe for success. According to the study, if the cat is adopted before the dog and if they are introduced when still young (less than 6 months for kittens, a year for dogs), there is a high probability that your two pets will get along swimmingly.

Results from the research were recently reported in the journal Applied Animal Behaviour Science.

“This is the first time anyone has done scientific research on pets living in the same home,” says Prof. Joseph Terkel, from the Department of Zoology at Tel Aviv University. “It’s especially relevant to the one-third of Americans who own a pet and are thinking about adopting a second one of the opposite species.”

Talk Like a Dog

After interviewing almost 200 pet owners who own both a cat and a dog, then videotaping and analyzing the animals’ behavior, TAU researchers concluded that cats and dogs can cohabitate happily if certain conditions are met. Prof. Terkel and his graduate student Neta-li Feuerstein found that two-thirds of the homes they surveyed reported a positive relationship between their cat and dog.

But it wasn’t all sweetness and light (or, for that matter, bones and catnip). There was a reported indifference between the cat and dog in 25% of the homes, while aggression and fighting were observed in 10% of the homes.

One reason for the fighting might have been crossed inter-species signals. Cats and dogs may not have been able to read each other’s body cues. For instance, cats tend to lash their tails about when mad, while dogs growl and arch their backs. A cat purrs when happy, while a dog wags its tail. A cat’s averted head signals aggression, while in a dog the same head position signals submission.

In homes where cat/dog détente existed, Prof. Terkel observed a surprising behavior. “We found that cats and dogs are learning how to talk each other’s language. It was a surprise that cats can learn how to talk ‘Dog’ and vice versa.”

What’s especially interesting, Prof. Terkel remarks, is that both cats and dogs have appeared to evolve beyond their instincts. They can learn to read each other’s body signals, suggesting that the two species may have more in common than was previously suspected.

Peacemaking Pets Can Be a Model for People

Once familiar with each others’ presence and body language, cats and dogs can play together, greet each other nose-to-nose, and enjoy sleeping together on the couch. They can easily share the same water bowl and in some cases groom each other. The far-reaching implications of this Tel Aviv University research on cats and dogs may extend beyond pets -- to people who don’t get along, including neighbours, colleagues at work, and even world superpowers.

“If cats and dogs can learn to get along,” concludes Prof. Terkel, “surely people have a good chance.

Bad Habits in Dog and Cat

Puppies and kittens are adorable little creatures. But, they can often get up to mischief as they get to know their new owners and explore their new home.

Dogs

Some examples of unwanted dog behavior include play-biting, chewing, barking, tail chasing, licking, jumping up and digging.

Chewing can occur for a number of reasons – teething, boredom or anxiety. Most dogs have all their adult teeth by two years of age. Teething should definitely stop by this age. If teething is a problem, give your pet ice cubes to help alleviate any discomfort that they may be experiencing. Bored dogs can also show bad habits such as chewing, barking or digging. These pets need more exercise and toys to help entertain them throughout the day. If no one is home during the day, a dog walker may help alleviate any boredom they may experience during the day. Anxious dogs can chew everything and anything when left alone. If a pet is to be left for long periods of time it is important that they are left with chew-proof toys. Exercise and training can help reduce anxiety. Making sure to not make a big fuss about leaving and returning will also help your pet to remain calm.

Cats

Some examples of unwanted cat behavior include scratching, biting, climbing on benches, playing at night and talking.

Cats need scratching posts to help renew their sharp claws. To prevent your cat from scratching at the carpet or furniture, keep tall, carpeted scratching posts near its favorite resting spots. Give positive reinforcement through praises and treats when your cat uses the scratching post. Place plastic covering over the areas you don’t want them to scratch. Eventually your cat will learn where the right places are to scratch.

Play-biting is a bad habit that can continue onto adulthood if not fixed. As kittens learn what is right and wrong behavior, it is always a good idea to wear long-sleeve clothing to prevent yourself from being scratched or bitten. Use pole-like toys and avoid your hands being used as toys. When your kitten plays well, praise it and give it treats. When your kitten plays roughly, stop playing and walk away. It’s always important to play gently and avoid any rough activites like wrestling from the start.

As in the wild, cats tend to climb to the highest spots so that they can see everything that is going on. So, it is natural behavior for your cat to want to climb onto the kitchen benches and cupboards. This is not a good idea for cats. Cats can transfer dirt and bugs onto the kitchen area, it is difficult to reach the cat if you need to, and you cannot observe its behavior at tall heights. To prevent your cat from climbing, provide them with tall, indoor scratching poles and cat trees and place catnip, treats or toys to encourage it to climb.

Cats, being nocturnal animals, are naturally more active at night. If cats don’t get enough exercise and play during the day, they can disturb you at night when everyone is asleep. So, remember to give your cat plenty of exercise of at least 20 minutes a day and playtime before bedtime, to prevent it from waking you at night.

Some cats are very talkative. Breeds such as Siamese and Burmese cats are very vocal. Cat cries can mean that they are lonely, hungry, anxious or bored. If your cat talks a lot after you have been away for a while, it usually means that it has been lonely. Try giving your cat plenty of toys and climbing posts for it to play with during the day. It is best not to give praise or treats following excessive vocalization as this can encourage talkative behavior. Wait until your cat is relaxed and calm and then give them attention or food.