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Showing posts with label Other. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Other. Show all posts

12/12/12

Alternatives to neutering your male dog


Owners who do not elect to get their dogs desexed often request other ways of preventing or managing the breeding, behavioural or medical problems faced by their entire pets. Which preventative measures and treatment options can be offered really depends on what the owner is trying to achieve. Owners just looking to prevent their dog or dogs from breeding can make use of a range of birth/pregnancy control measures available (sections 10a-10f). Owners looking to control or manage testosterone-mediated behavioural or medical problems (e.g. prostate hyperplasia, perianal adenomas) can look at option 10g. The reality is, however, that no one of these alternative measures alone will manage all of the problems of overpopulation, behaviour and testosterone-mediated health issues like desexing will. Additionally, many of these alternative solutions do come with significant side effects and health risks of their own. Desexing is always the best choice.

IMPORTANT: Check your local state and regional laws before opting for any of these alternatives. Animal population control laws are changing and increasing all the time. It may be illegal for you to keep a non-breeding-purposes (i.e. an entire male "stud" dog not owned by a registered breeder) entire male dog on your property. 

The cost (price) of neutering a dog


Much as I would love to be able to do so, to attempt to place a flat $ figure on the costs of desexing a dog would be grossly irresponsible of me and quite impossible to do. The cost of desexing male dogs is greatly variable and varies from place to place and region to region. It depends on many factors including: the size of the vet clinic, the competition the vet clinic has, the nature of the clinic (e.g. is it a shelter clinic), the suburb the clinic is located in, the size (weight) of the dog, whether the animal is a cryptorchid or not and so on.


In this section, I will give you an idea of the costs and the range of prices that may exist in one town/city when you are considering getting your dog neutered in Australia. (The principles discussed here will most likely to apply to any city in the world). I will outline the ways that vets arrive at these prices and discuss ways that you can source lower cost and discount neutering.

Keeping a Dog OFF the Furniture


Dogs enjoy furniture for the same reasons we do. Some humans enjoy lounging around on the floor, but furniture in homes is certainly common and much used. Also like humans, many dogs have joint problems that make lying on the floor painful.

If you're not going to allow the dog on the furniture, provide a bed with the right padding and warmth for the dog's needs. It doesn't have to be expensive. You can buy egg-crate foam intended for human mattress pads, cut it to the right size, and wrap it with an old sheet for a cool-seeking dog, or use an old blanket for a warmth-seeking dog. For some dogs you'll need warmth for part of the year and coolness for part of the year.


The Right Start

Once a dog forms the habit of getting up on furniture, change is difficult. If you want to keep your dogs off the furniture, your best bet is to start EVERY puppy and new dog in your home with "off the furniture" as the CONSISTENT rule. This means everyone in the family cooperates in keeping the dog off the furniture. Just one uncooperative person can ruin the training, and create a situation unfair to the dog. 

Do not leave the puppy or dog alone around furniture until training is complete. Someone must supervise, just as you will be doing anyway for housetraining and to teach the dog to chew only dog toys, not inappropriate items.
Be gentle when removing the dog from furniture. It's best not to touch the dog at all, other than to lift a puppy or small dog and place gently on the floor. Puppies and small dogs can be injured by jumping off furniture.

For larger dogs who won't be harmed by getting down on their own, it is safer and more effective to lure and/or cue the dog to get off the furniture, and reward the dog for being back on the floor. People often arouse aggression in dogs by angrily ejecting them from furniture, which can both trigger defense drives in dogs and cause pain if the dog has an orthopedic problem. Orthopedic problems, both inherited and injury related, are so common in dogs that this is a frequent cause of a dog reacting aggressively when forced to get up from a comfortable position and jump down to the floor.

If the dog is adult and new to your home, consider keeping a leash on when teaching the dog to get off furniture in order to have good control. A head halter is an additional safeguard if the dog shows any tendency to react defensively.

Don't drag the dog off furniture with the leash. Induce the dog to return to the floor while you simply hold the leash, keeping it slack, with no tension pulling against the dog. The leash is simply a safety, "just in case." If the dog is off-leash, avoid grabbing the collar or otherwise physically forcing the dog. Either of those maneuvers can be dangerous.

Keep temper out of it. You're teaching the dog what you DO want, not scolding or punishing for the behavior you do not want. This approach will lead to everyone in the family eventually being able to remind the dog about furniture when necessary without risking a defensive reaction from the dog.

Remember that you need a place for the dog to comfortably rest. You're teaching the dog WHERE to rest, not just WHERE NOT to rest. So have the comfy bed in place. The place for it is near the family-which means you may need several comfy resting places for the dog-so that obeying you does not place the dog in social isolation. Social isolation is punishment to a dog, and you want doing the right behavior to be rewarding.

Reward the dog in the chosen resting place. Do this both when you have just cued the dog to go to the place, and also when you notice the dog has gone to that place without a cue. Use tiny treats, special chew toys, praise, petting, toys with food inside them, and other rewards your dog can enjoy while resting on the bed.


If you do this training right from the start, a puppy will never develop the habit of getting up on furniture. A dog new to your home is also more "teachable" about things like this right at first, because so much is new to the dog that there's a special openness to learning new ways, new rules.

Oops, A Habit


When a dog has already formed the habit of getting up on furniture, changing that is more challenging than setting the desired habit from the start. The dog will probably always have some tendency to get up on furniture when no one is around. You will need to keep the dog from having access to the furniture when you're not supervising, for quite some time, and possibly even for life.

Rooms with furniture the dog likes to get on-bedrooms, living room, possibly family rooms-can be gated off so that the dog can't go in there without a human to supervise. Alternatively the dog could be crated, but if furniture is the only reason, gating off the areas gives the dog more room to move joints and exercise muscles and can be healthier than crating.

Some people find a Scat Mat (you can buy it through pet catalogs) will keep a dog off the sofa. It gives the dog a shock. Obviously, you can't have the Scat Mat on the sofa if you're using it. Electric shock also carries the risk of "superstitious behavior," too, with a dog developing fear or aggression toward something experienced at the same time as the shock.

A plastic carpet runner--the kind intended to lie over the carpet to protect it, like at an open house when a house is for sale-can help. Turn the carpet runner upside down, so the plastic points that were intended to grip the carpet are instead pointed up, making an uncomfortable surface for a dog.

Some dogs like to get up high to see things. If this is the case, it can help to either block the dog's view from the furniture, or provide a better view elsewhere. Maybe move the furniture.

Compromise


A popular solution to this problem is to use slipcovers on the furniture. They could be formal ones, beautifully made, or just bed sheets, comforters, blankets, etc. tossed over the sofa to keep it from picking up dog hair and dirt. Then, people may go ahead and allow the dog on the furniture. It's even possible to teach a dog to wait for the sheet to be put on the furniture before getting up there.

Another solution some people use is to get a piece of furniture for the dog, the only one the dog is allowed to use. You can keep an old sofa for this purpose. This furniture has to be in the area of the house where the dog WANTS to be, not somewhere isolated from where the rest of the family hangs out.

Why?


In an all-adult household where every family member happily welcomes the easy-tempered dog on furniture, it might seem unnecessary to keep the dog off the furniture. But before making this choice, take careful thought.

Puppies should not be allowed on furniture until their adult temperaments become evident, during or after puberty. At that point it will become clear that some of them should NEVER be allowed on furniture, due to unsuitable temperament.

Puppies and small dogs can be injured jumping off furniture. If you do decide to allow your small dog on furniture, you'll need to either teach the dog to wait to be lifted down, or provide a ramp and train the dog to consistently use it.

Houses with children are well advised to keep dogs off furniture. Young kids running up to beds startle dogs out of sleep and have their faces in exactly the right place for a bite to cause lifelong disfigurement. If you don't have young children, what about grandchildren or other relatives, children of friends, etc.? If not now, what about 5 or 10 years from now when you still have this dog and habits are set?

If there is anyone in the household who is fussy about dog hair on clothing, or you expect to entertain guests you wouldn't want to offend by covering their clothes with dog hair, those are reasons to teach the dog to stay off furniture. Remember that changing the rules later is very hard on the dog. It's more humane to train the way you will need things to be later, right from the start.

Though you might not imagine your dog could ever have to adjust to a new home, it happens to the vast majority of dogs during their lives. Teaching the dog to stay off furniture gives the dog a better chance of a future home being a permanent home, in the event this ever happens.

"Off the furniture" is a good habit for people to teach their dogs, especially puppies. You can easily change later if the dog's temperament and the circumstances in the home make it reasonable for the dog to share the family's furniture. It's unusual to find a dog who won't learn to get up on furniture when the family desires this change, even after years of the dog never doing so.

12/10/12

Size dog name


BIG DOGS NAMES
Animal
Barricade
Beast,
Beastie
Belly
Big
Big
Boy
Big
Mack
Big
Mamma
Big
Red
Big
Top
Bigems
Biggie
Bigz
Bogart
Bruiser
Burl,Burley
Cartman
Chubbs
Chubby
Chubrock
Chubsey
Chunks
Chunky
Conan
Condor
Congo
Crunk
Cyclone
Cyrano
Diesel
Doozer
Dragon
Dumpling
Epic
Fatso
Fattie
Flubb
Flubber
Frankenstein
Geela
Godzilla
Goliath
Grill
Hannible
Jaws
Jumbo
Khan
King
Kong
Kruzer
Macro
Magnum
Magnus
Maxi
Maximus
Mighty
Moby
Mondo
Pounder
Power
Quake
Rambo
Rammer
Reef
Saga
Semi
Shamoo
Sumo
Tank
Thunder
Titan
Titanic
Titus
Tonka
Tornado
Train
Tree
Tremor
Wookie
LITTLE DOGS NAMES
Acorn
Baby
Beans,Beener
Binkie
Bonsai
Brillo
Button,Buttons
Cheerio
Chibi
Crumbs
Cuddles
Cupcake
Cupid
Dinky
Dorito
Elf
Frito,Fritos
Goober
Inch
Koi,Coy
Littlefoot
Micro
Midge
Mini
Mite
Mosquito
Peanut
Pip
Pixie
Poco
Pouch
Roadbump
Rollo
Shortstack
Shorty
Slim
Smidgen
Speck
Squeegee
Squeek
Squeeker
Squirt
Stumpy
Teenie
Termite
Thumbellina
Tink
Tinkerbelle
Tiny
Titch
Twigs,Twiggy
Wedge
Weenie
Whisper
 

Top Top 20 "Male" and "Female" Dog Names

Top 20 "Male" Dog Names: Top 20 "FeMale" Dog Names:

MAX

BUDDY

JAKE

BAILEY

ROCKY

CHARLIE

JACK

TOBY

CODY

BUSTER

DUKE

COOPER

HARLEY

RILEY

BEAR

MURPHY

LUCKY

TUCKER

SAM

OLIVER

MOLLY

BELLA

LUCY

MAGGIE

DAISY

SADIE

CHLOE

SOPHIE

BAILEY

ZOE

LOLA

ABBY

GINGER

ROXY

GRACIE

COCO

SASHA

ANGEL

LILY

PRINCESS

Random dog names list


  • Recent Name
  • Reason
    • Bryn
    • wanted a welsh name & love Uncle Bryn!
    • Evie
    • its a very pretty ladies name
    • Candy
    • Because she's sweet like candy
    • Candy
    • Because she's sweet like candy
    • Skip
    • because its really cute for a jack russell
    • Alfie
    • It was perfect for him and he was soooo cute....We were going to call him cutsie!
    • Charlie
    • Because he is loveable, give kisses, wags his tail and loves seeing other dogs and acts like a true prince. His nickname is Charlies
    • Annie
    • cus wen we rescued her that was her name and she was a little orphan at the time her previous owner had passed away
    • Rosie
    • she just like a rose small and round smell sweet
    • Gyspy
    • He had had a lot of homes & was a bit of a traveler - rescued from Battersea 40 years ago!
    • Willow
    • A sweet gentle, delicate & graceful lurcher boy - much loved & so very missed.
    • Sheppie
    • She was a sweet, shy, funny girl & I still miss her after 15 years
    • Bruin
    • Because he looked like a big fluffy bear
    • Blutus
    • cos he's big and hairy like the cartoon character
    • Molly
    • Because I just love the name
    • Maddie
    • short for madeline
    • Mia
    • after 'mama mia'
    • Maid
    • because they only made one of her
    • Merlin
    • because he is magic
    • Roxy
    • i love her

Names of Dogs in Ancient Greece

Imagine you live in ancient Greece. You are about to choose a new puppy. What should you call it? There was a science to choosing and naming a dog in classical antiquity.

Which is the finest puppy in a litter? Like moderns, the ancients looked for an adventurous and friendly nature, but one test for selecting the pick of the litter seems rather heartless today. Let the mother choose for you, advises Nemesianus, a Roman expert on hunting dogs. Take away her puppies, surround them with an oil-soaked string and set it on fire. The mother will jump over the ring of flames and rescue each puppy, one by one, in order of their merit. Other signs of an excellent hound are large, soft ears, instead of small and stiff. Upright ears are fine, but the best ears flop over just a bit. A long, supple neck adapts well to a collar. The chest should be broad, shoulder blades wide apart, and hind legs slightly longer than the front, for chasing rabbits uphill. The dog’s coat, whether long or short, can be any color, but the fur ought to be shiny, dense, and soft.

Training a young dog begins at 20 months, but a puppy needs a good name right away. Xenophon, a Greek historian who wrote about hounds in the fourth century BC, maintained that the best names are short, one or two syllables, so they can be called easily. No Greek hounds were saddled with monikers like Thrasybulus or Thucydides! The meaning of the name was also important for the morale of both master and dog: names that express speed, courage, strength, appearance, and other qualities were favored. Xenophon named his favorite dog Horme (Eager).

Atalanta, the famous huntress of Greek myth, called her dog Aura (Breeze). An ancient Greek vase painting of 560 BC shows Atalanta and other heroes and their hounds killing the great Calydonian Boar. Seven dogs’ names are inscribed on the vase (some violate Xenophon’s brevity rule): Hormenos (Impulse), Methepon (Pursuer), Egertes (Vigilant), Korax (Raven), Marpsas, Labros (Fierce), and Eubolous (Shooter).

The Roman poet Ovid gives the Greek names of the 36 dogs that belonged to Actaeon, the unlucky hunter of Greek myth who was torn apart by his pack: among them were Tigris, Laelaps (Storm), Aello (Whirlwind), and Arcas (Bear). Pollux lists 15 dog names; another list is found in Columella. The longest list of suitable names for ancient Greek dogs—46 in all—was compiled by the dog whisperer Xenophon. Popular names for dogs in antiquity, translated from Greek, include Lurcher, Whitey, Blackie, Tawny, Blue, Blossom, Keeper, Fencer, Butcher, Spoiler, Hasty, Hurry, Stubborn, Yelp, Tracker, Dash, Happy, Jolly, Trooper, Rockdove, Growler, Fury, Riot, Lance, Pell-Mell, Plucky, Killer, Crafty, Swift, and Dagger.

Alexander the Great honored his faithful dog, Peritas (January), by naming a city after him. Greek and Roman writers remind their readers to praise their canine companions. Arrian, the biographer of Alexander the Great who also wrote a treatise on hunting, says one should pat one’s dog, caress its head, pulling gently on the ears, and speak its name along with a hearty word or two—“Well done!” “Good girl!”—by way of encouragement. After all, remarks Arrian, “dogs enjoy being praised, just as noble men do.”

106 name of dogs start with G

Choosing a name for your dog can often prove harder than you may think. With your longed-for new pet now a lively barking reality, inspiration can desert you.
  1. GAELIC
  2. GALILEO
  3. GAMBLER
  4. GARBO
  5. GARGOYLE
  6. GARLIC
  7. GARP
  8. GATEKEEPER
  9. GATOR
  10. GATSBY
  11. GAVIN
  12. GAZELLE
  13. GAZPACHO
  14. GECKO
  15. GEEKIE
  16. GEEZER
  17. GEISHA
  18. GEMINI
  19. GENESIS
  20. GENGHIS
  21. GENIE
  22. GENIUS
  23. GEORGIA
  24. GEPPETTO
  25. GERBIL
  26. GERONIMO
  27. GERTRUDE
  28. GHIRADELLI
  29. GHOSTBUSTER
  30. GIDDY
  31. GIDEON
  32. GIDGET
  33. GIGGLES
  34. GIGI
  35. GIGOLO
  36. GILLIGAN
  37. GIMP
  38. GIN
  39. GINGER
  40. GINGERSNAP
  41. GINGHAM
  42. GINSENG
  43. GIPPER
  44. GIRL
  45. GIRLFRIEND
  46. GIRO
  47. GISELLE
  48. GIZMO
  49. GLADSTONE
  50. GNOME
  51. GOBBLE
  52. GOBLIN
  53. GODFATHER
  54. GODZILLA
  55. GOETHE
  56. GOLDIE
  57. GOLDILOCKS
  58. GOLIATH
  59. GOMER
  60. GOOBER
  61. GOOCH
  62. GOOMBA
  63. GOOSE
  64. GOPHER
  65. GORDO
  66. GORGEOUS
  67. GORILLA
  68. GORKY
  69. GOUDA
  70. GRACE
  71. GRANDEUR
  72. GRAZIE
  73. GREMLIN
  74. GRETEL
  75. GREYSTOKE
  76. GRITS
  77. GRIZZLY
  78. GROUCHO
  79. GROVER
  80. GRUMPUS
  81. GRUMPY
  82. GRUNGE
  83. GRUNION
  84. GRUNT
  85. GUAYMAS
  86. GUCCI
  87. GUFFAW
  88. GUIDO
  89. GUINEVERE
  90. GULLIVER
  91. GUMBALL
  92. GUMBO
  93. GUMBY
  94. GUMDROP
  95. GUMMIE BEAR
  96. GUMPS
  97. GUNG HO
  98. GUNNER
  99. GUNTHER
  100. GURU
  101. GUS
  102. GUSSY
  103. GUSTO
  104. GUY
  105. GYPSY
  106. GYRO

Creat a dog game

Top 50 male dogs names


der which are the most popular puppy dog names? Take a look at the top puppy names on our list -- a list of over 5,000 puppy dog names! Don't agree with the rankings? Click on the heart beside the name and vote it up. And if you don't see your puppy's name, please submit a new one. We want to make this puppy name list the best around.

1. Ace
2. A.J.
3. Max
4. Aztec
5. Buddy
6. Byron
7. Axel
8. Bailey
9. Bentley
10. Cooper
11. Fuzzy
12. Bandit
13. Bear
14. Czor
15. Charlie
16. Izzy
17. Coco
18. Duke
19. Dynamite
20. Marley
21. Alex
22. Rocky
23. Blaze
24. Shadow
25. Biscuit
26. Buster
27. Lucky
28. Dylan
29. Aang
30. Jacob
31. Zeus
32. Toby
33. Justin
34. Jake
35. Gyro
36. Buzz
37. Oreo
38. Cody
39. Scooby
40. Dakota
41. Tyson
42. Gizmo
43. Exit
44. Jack
45. Riley
46. Benji
47. Rex
48. Bubbles
49. Avery
50. Achilles





Top 100 name of dog so great

Market research has indicated that the following Top 100 Dog Names are the most popular Male and Female names in the US. The most popular girl and boy dog names have a trend towards being short and would be easily recognisable by a dog. Specific breeds of dogs have different levels of popularity. The Top 100 dog names often reflect the physical appearance of the dog such as Ginger or Rusty. The Top 100 US names often change according to popular characters in TV series or movies. Have a good look at our selection of Top 100 Dog Names - we hope you will find some inspiration and just the right name for your pet!


1
Max
2
Buddy
3
Molly
4
Maggie
5
Jake
6
Daisy
7
Lucy
8
Rocky
9
Bailey
10
Sadie
11
Ginger
12
Chloe
13
Harley
14
Sophie
15
Buster
16
Zoe
17
Cody
18
Charlie
19
Bear
20
Jack
21
Princess
22
Bella
23
Angel
24
Toby
25
Lady
26
Sasha
27
Duke
28
Lucky
29
Abby
30
Sam
31
Roxy
32
Missy
33
Brandy
34
Coco
35
Shadow
36
Annie
37
Katie
38
Rusty
39
Samantha
40
Casey
41
Murphy
42
Gracie
43
Sammy
44
Zeus
45
Riley
46
Rosie
47
Oscar
48
Misty
49
Winston
50
Emma
51
Sandy
52
Tucker
53
Teddy
54
Heidi
55
Gizmo
56
Samson
57
Lily
58
Penny
59
Oliver
60
Bandit
61
Shelby
62
Madison
63
Lola
64
Pepper
65
Nikki
66
Belle
67
Precious
68
Jasmine
69
Holly
70
Chelsea
71
Amber
72
Ruby
73
Dakota
74
Hunter
75
Sassy
76
Beau
77
Sparky
78
Sheba
79
Jackson
80
Tasha
81
Cooper
82
Hannah
83
Baby
84
Cleo
85
Mickey
86
Rudy
87
Honey
88
Cassie
89
Maximus
90
Bruno
91
Dixie
92
Chester
93
Spike
94
Sierra
95
Simba
96
Sugar
97
Gus
98
Harry
99
Moose
100
Rascal

More about The Blue Heeler dog

The Blue Heeler, also recognized as the Australian Cattle Dog, Queensland Heeler and Red Heeler is a breed of herding dog developed for herding in Australia. Australian George Elliott developed this breed in 1840 by mixing Collies and native Dingoes with other herding dogs. The Blue Heeler is adored by Australian ranchers and cattlemen because of the breed's work ethic and toughness. These dogs rapidly became well-liked as cattle herders.
The height of the Blue Heelers is 17-20 inches and the weight ranges from 30-35 pounds. Blue Heelers come in blue merle or red speckle. Blue merle is blue or blue-mottle with or without blue, tan or black markings on the head with tan. This breed's coat is waterproof and short and needs brushing only when necessary.

The Blue Heeler is an intelligent, high-energy and active dog. They are not satisfied with just sitting about the house for hours continuously. This breed will persuade you to go outside with them for play and exercise.

Blue Heelers can be one person dogs, like most herding breeds. They as well have an exclusive independence and do not have a need of hugging or affection. This breed will be grateful for positive feedback and proper handling, though firm and tough. At times, the Blue Heeler's herding nature can abruptly show up. They may try to "herd" their human family and nip gently at their heels if the dog desires something.

If nipping tends to be a problem, a toy can resolve this dilemma. Make sure it is a tough one since Blue Heelers can destroy a usual dog toy to shreds in minutes. Always keep your Blue Heeler on a leash since they are extremely inquisitive and love to wander and roam. In addition, they will sometimes have problems with dogs that they don't know.

The Blue Heeler is not a barker but they are nonetheless very protecting of their home. This breed can be guarded and distrustful-a trait that enables them to be outstanding watchdogs. These dogs are sociable and affectionate companions as well.

Blue Heelers require activities, responsibilities and tons of room to run and play, consequently, they are not appropriate for apartment living. This breed is capable of getting into mischief and destructiveness. Blue Heelers are capable of being easily trained and they require a firm hand managing them so that they don't form a relationship with another dominant dog in the neighborhood.

A Blue Heeler in good physical shape usually lives 12-15 years. A few common health concerns with Blue Heelers consist of hip dysplasia, eye problems and deafness.

If you are looking for a strong, intelligent, high-energy dog that loves to work for you, then the Blue Heeler might be the dog for you.

Before You Adopt a Dog

Ask trainer Sue Sternberg where you should get a dog and, without hesitation, she'll tell you to go to an animal shelter. She should know as a nationally recognized dog trainer and owner of Rondout Valley Kennels, a boarding kennel, training and behavior center, and private shelter in Accord, New York, she regularly works with shelters across the country, and counsels families who have adopted from them.

In addition, Sternberg has produced several booklets and videotapes about issues specific to shelter dogs and shelter dog adoption. The booklets include Temperament Testing for Dogs in Shelters and A Guide to Choosing your Next Dog from the Shelter; the videos include The Controversial Pit Bull about temperament testing Pit Bulls in shelters, and Training Your Shelter Dog. She also is a frequent and popular speaker at all sorts of dog-related venues.

Setting aside all of the arguments for buying a puppy from a breeder, Sternberg emphatically pronounces that you should adopt a dog from a shelter because, as she says, 'it's the right thing to do. Because there are great dogs in animal shelters, and because dogs in shelters need homes. There is no need to get a puppy from a breeder in order to raise it right getting your dog at an early age is no guarantee of how he will turn out. Plus, you can find all the great qualities you could ever want in a shelter mixed-breed dog or puppy, or in one of the thousands of purebreds waiting in shelters on any given day.

Of course, there are plenty of canine train wrecks desperately seeking homes in animal shelters as well dogs who will cause heartache and trauma for the average dog owner. Sternberg offers tips to help prospective adopters find the diamonds in the rough world of animal sheltering.

Before you visit a shelterThere are a number of steps you need to take before you even set foot inside the shelter door. Doing some pre-visit homework can greatly increase your odds of finding the perfect pup. Here are Sternberg's suggestions:
Visit Petfinder on-line,  This web site lists shelters across the country, and can pinpoint the ones in your area starting with those closest to you. You can also search for specific breeds or breed mixes.
Caution: If all dogs on a particular shelter's website are described the same way (sweet, friendly, loving) then the shelter probably doesn't know the personalities of their dogs very well, or chooses not to be forthcoming with the information. This would be a good shelter to avoid.
Petfinder is not a complete list of all shelters, so you also need to check your local phone book for others in your area. You should be willing to travel a good distance, as much as three hours or more, to find the right dog at the right shelter.
Contact the shelters on your list and ask about their return policy. A good shelter will always accept any dog as a return that they have adopted out at any time in his life, for whatever reason the owner may be unable to keep him. You should not expect a refund if you must return your dog, but shelters that refuse to take a dog back after 30 days (or whatever time limit) are not accepting full responsibility for the lives that pass through their hands.
Ask the shelters about their adoption procedures. You will want to be able to visit with your prospective new family member outside of the kennel. If that is not allowed by a shelter, cross that one off your list.
Ask the shelters about their criteria for making dogs available for adoption. Good shelters do temperament testing, and do not make dogs available who have a prior history of biting. Some dogs are not appropriate for our human society. A shelter who places all dogs up for adoption and never euthanizes is doing a disservice to potential adopters. Don't go to such a shelter.
Sit in on a dog training class (or several). Find a trainer you like, who is kind to dogs and motivates them with treats, toys, and praise. (A selection of trainers from across the country is available from the APDT Trainer Locator at www.apdt.com.) Ask the instructor for good shelter referrals. If there are students in the class with shelter dogs, ask them which shelter they adopted from and what their experiences were. Avoid shelters where others have had negative experiences.
Talk to the trainer you like about accompanying you to the shelter to select a dog. You should expect to pay a fee for this service, so you may want to arrange to have her visit with you once you find one or more possible adoption candidates.
When you do start visiting shelters, look beyond a slick exterior. A good shelter is made up by people who care, and the good dogs in their kennels. There are lots of old, rundown, dark and damp shelters that have great dogs and are staffed by wonderful people, and there are others that are just as wretched as they look. There are also bright, pretty, high-tech modern shelters that treat people and animals well, and still others that are all window-dressing, forgetting to treat their human and canine clients with compassion.
Avoid rigid preconceptions about what kind (age, breed, sex, size, color, coat length) of dog you want. Be prepared to enter the shelter with an open mind. Size, for example, is not a good indicator of energy level or adaptability to a small house many large dogs are better suited to apartment life than are the typically high-energy but small Jack Russell Terriers.

The shelter visitAlthough it's best to avoid preconceptions about what model of dog you are looking for, Sternberg advises that it is very important to know what to look for behaviorally. 'A high level of sociability will contribute more to a dog's success in a home than any other trait, Sternberg says. 'Overall, be looking for a dog that really likes people and wants to be with them, who is affectionate, congenial, and bonds easily and strongly. These are the dogs who are most fun, and the least worry to live with.

Stand firm on this behavior criteria as you progress through Sternberg's 12-step program for adoption success:
As you enter the shelter, get a reading on the attitude of staff and volunteers. Are you greeted warmly and treated well? If you are asked to fill out a questionnaire, are the interviewers genuinely interested in who you are and helping you find the right dog, or are you grilled like a criminal? Any concerns about your answers should be used to help educate, not condemn you. If you feel like you are getting the thumbscrews and third-degree, leave. It would be almost impossible to concentrate on your task in an environment like this.
When you enter the kennels, make a quick pass through without stopping to schmooze the dogs. Pen and paper in hand, make note of any dogs that stand out for you. Ideally, you might find four or five who do.
On your second pass-through, stop and visit with each of the dogs you noted. Put your hand up to the kennel wire or bars. The dog should readily come up to visit you and sniff your hand. Remember, these dogs are socially deprived, and should be seeking your attention. When a candidate sniffs your hand, tell him he's a good dog, and move your hand back and forth, slowly, several times, about five inches each way. A social dog will follow your hand. Remember, you want a social dog a well-socialized, outgoing, and friendly dog is the least liable to be aggressive. If the dog jumps at your faces, barks at you, lunges or, alternatively clings to or retreats to the back of the kennel, cross him off your list and move on to the next dog.
When you have identified the dogs on your list who are very social, take them out of their kennels one at a time, to a quiet room if possible. (Not all shelters can provide this luxury. Do the best you can find a relatively quiet corner somewhere.) Stand with the dog for five minutes, and totally ignore him. The dog should look at you in a warm way, and try to worm his way into your affections leaning on you, nudging, licking, trying to cuddle. Jumping up is okay if it is done as attention-seeking, not in an attempt to bowl you off your feet as he bounces away from you. If an employee is with you and the dog is seeking attention from the employee, that's okay it just means the dog has already formed a bond with that person. If in five minutes the dog shows little or no interest in you or in other humans who are with you, put him back. He is not a good candidate.
If he is very social, pet him slowly and gently down his back. He should stand still and enjoy this, or lean into you, seeking more contact. If he shakes you off after you've touched him ('Yuck, people cooties!) or moves or lunges away from your touch, he's telling you he doesn't like being petted, or being around you. This dog is at risk for being aggressive anytime people touch him in a way that offends him. Put him back.
If he passes the petting test, ask a shelter staff member if you can feed him a meal a small bowl of kibble, or a handful of biscuits that you brought with you. You want to test him for resource guarding another behavior that puts him at high risk for biting. Put a bowl of food or pile of treats on the floor, enough that it will take him about 45 seconds to finish it. Now (BE CAREFUL!) talk to him, then pet him gently on the back. (Do not try to take the food away!) You want him to wag his tail, wag his tail harder, or even stop and look at you as if to say, 'Hi! I'm eating right now, I'll be back with you shortly. He may even stop eating and prefer to be with you. However, if he stiffens, blocks you with his body, glares at you, lowers his head into the dish, growls, or tries to move the food away from you, he is a resource guarder, and not a good adoption choice.
If he passes the first food test, up the ante. Ask the shelter staff if you can give him a chew hoof, pig ear, rawhide, or some other very valuable object. Again, you want to see if he is cooperative or competitive with this resource. Slowly move toward him and look for any of the guarding signs described in the previous step. If you see them, stop the test. If not, slowly reach for the object from a distance of at least two feet, then jerk your hand back. Repeat this step three times. You are looking for a dog who is relaxed about your approach. If you see any signs of guarding, don't adopt. Have the staff person retrieve the valuable object and put the dog away.
If the dog is still with you, your next step is to pet him all over. He should actively enjoy being petted, perhaps wag his tail, even lick you. He should not mouth you, even gently. If he does, put him away. Mouthiness, even done gently, is a sign of resistance, and may escalate to a bite if someone, such as a child, ignores the sign and keeps on petting or touching.
Now take out a toy (that you brought with you for this purpose, or one that the shelter provides, if they prefer) and see if he will play some sort of game with you: fetch, tug-o-war, or chase. Play the game for three to four minutes enough to get him excited and aroused. Then abruptly stop the play, and put the toy up, preferably on a shelf where he can see it. Take note of how long it takes him to disengage from playing and return to you to settle and socialize, perhaps sit or lie down next to you. Ideally, he will do this within two minutes. If he is still aroused after five minutes, put him away. This is the kind of energy level that the average dog household is not equipped to deal with. (If, on the other hand, you are looking for the next World Frisbee or Agility Champion, he might be a candidate.)
Take the dog for a walk on leash, outside if possible. Don't worry if he pulls, or is very distracted these are behaviors that are normal for shelter dogs, and can be retrained. Do watch for aggressive behavior toward other dogs or people while he is on leash. If you see any, put him away and cross him off your list.
If this dog is still on your list when your walk is done, have a staff person put him back in his kennel, then watch him as other strangers pass by,especially children, big men, and anyone who moves or dresses oddly. Avoid a dog who barks or lunges at anyone who walks by this is a sign of inadequate socialization. If your dog will be around children, look for a dog who wants to greet passing children first. A dog who will live with children must worship little humans, not just tolerate them.
If you still have one or more candidates in the running, ask the shelter staff if you can put them on temporary hold while you make arrangements to return with your kids and spouse (if you have them) and trainer. You may also want to bring your current dog, if you have one, so your trainer can help with the first introduction. Shelter staff may tell you that they can't put a dog on hold, because if someone else wants to adopt in the meantime and you don't return for some reason, he might miss out on his best chance for a home. This is reasonable. However, they should be willing to note that you are interested on the dog's paperwork, and give you a reasonable amount of time to return, so the dog isn't selected for euthanasia before you can get back with your crew in tow. When you do return, your trainer will be able to help you make an educated final decision about which of the dogs on your short list is the best choice for a long relationship with your family.


Pit Bulls: How to Separate the Time Bombs from
the Tender Buddies

Twenty-five years ago, Pit Bulls were an unusual sight in animal shelters. They exploded onto the scene in the 1980s, and today it's a rare shelter that doesn't include one or more of these distinctive and powerful dogs in its kennel population at any given time. Their history as fighting dogs, their recent record as one of the breeds most responsible for human dog-bite fatalities (surpassed only recently by Rottweilers), and their potential for mayhem has landed them in the middle of an intense debate about the breed's suitability as a companion animal.

At one time, shelters almost universally euthanized all Pit Bulls that were in their custody. Over time, that position has softened, and while some shelters still refuse to place Pit Bulls for adoption, others routinely do, with screening protocols that vary in rigor.

Sue Sternberg has had extensive experience with surrendered and stray Pit Bulls and Pit Bull mixes and has strong opinions about the dogs. This isn't unusual; join any debate about Pit Bulls, and you will encounter devotees who swear that they would trust their Pit Bulls to baby-sit their firstborn heir, and at the opposite extreme, parents who turn deathly pale and snatch up their children at the sight of any dog that even remotely resembles a Pit. Sternberg has seen many dogs that deserve the former reaction sweet, devoted, tolerant dogs as well as dogs that deserve the latter reaction aloof, dominant, and aggressive animals.

'There are many appropriate and lovely Pit Bulls and Pit mixes, she says. 'But because they are so strong and have such potential to do damage, however, you need to be more careful when adopting one. These are very athletic and physical dogs, far more capable than the average Beagle or Cocker Spaniel of doing serious damage, if and when they do choose to bite.

Last year, Sternberg produced an 80-minute videotape, 'The Controversial Pit Bull, that explores the differences between Pits and Pit-mixes and most non-Pit shelter dogs. The video puts special emphasis on observing and temperament testing Pit Bulls in order to weed out potentially dangerous dogs from the candidates for placement in homes. This is especially important with Pit Bulls, because, Sternberg explains, 'At first glance, there may not be any discernible differences between a good Pit and a scary one; the average owner will think that both dogs are just being effusively friendly. Most Pit Bulls will greet you by wriggling all over and wagging their tails exuberantly, their tongues hanging out with big grins. A temperament problem is more evident in most other dogs; in Pit Bulls, it's very hard for the average person to appreciate until it's too late.

Fortunately, there are some subtle but important differences in the behavior of Pit Bulls with latent aggressive tendencies, and Sternberg often presents lectures to shelter and training professionals on recognizing those differences. To name just a few, some of the behaviors that Sternberg regards as signs of a potentially aggressive dog include:
A dog who is quick to arouse (the dog becomes fully animated and competitive after just a moment or two of engagement with a toy or game) and slow to calm down.
A dog who repeatedly avoids petting or mild restraint, moving forcefully away, shaking you off, or using his mouth (even in a gentle way) to avoid or escape your touch.
Most Pits love to play tug-of-war, but look out for dogs who quickly and repeatedly 're-grip, climbing up the rope in an effort to get it away from you, or, worse, leap at your hand or arm to gain control of the game.

Sternberg recommends that anyone adopting a Pit Bull or, for that matter, any of the 'big, macho breeds confer with a professional trainer/behavior consultant. 'My rule of thumb is that if you are selecting a dog that is heavier or stronger than any of your family members, talk to a pro first, she advises.

If you choose to own a Pit Bull, your already significant responsibilities as a dog owner are magnified, both by the dog's potential as well as by the eye of public scrutiny. When it comes to Pit Bulls, many people will leap to condemn a behavior that might be overlooked in a different breed of dog. And, face it: A mistake in judgment with even small dogs can have serious consequences. A judgment lapse with a Pit Bull can prove deadly.


But What About the Others?

Some people who are familiar with Sternberg's shelter dog selection criteria and temperament testing procedure regard her methods as overcautious and too restrictive. If everyone followed Sternberg's guidelines, some say, an awful lot of shelter dogs would get passed over and be euthanized.

Sternberg admits that her guidelines are designed for the least common denominator; the average adopter from a shelter is a family with children, perhaps with another dog already, perhaps with a cat in the household, whose parents are relatively inexperienced in handling and training dogs. If followed to a T, her guidelines will identify the dogs who have the greatest potential for success in any household a friendly, confident dog who really likes people, and does not have any blatant tendencies toward resource guarding or aggression. She also recognizes that some of the dogs that would be cast aside by her evaluation would make great canine companions in the right (experienced, perhaps dog-, cat-, and kid-free) hands and homes. But these homes are in short supply.

And, in fact, an awful lot of shelter dogs do get euthanized. The current estimate is that 3 to 4 million dogs are put to death in shelters in this country every year. Many are euthanized after being returned to a shelter several times in succession, after not adjusting well to several homes, after breaking the hearts of several families in the process, and stressing the dog repeatedly.

If dogs must be euthanized until this country's pet overpopulation problem is solved, it is by far the lesser of two evils that the best dogs be adopted to lifelong loving homes, rather than dogs with serious behavior problems who are recycled through numerous homes, with rare success.

Besides, some of the dogs with more challenging behaviors will be adopted by experienced owners who are prepared to direct high energy and assertive personalities into appropriate channels. Others will be adopted by well-intentioned and kindhearted folks who resign themselves to managing difficult behaviors for the rest of their dogs' lives.

When you find yourself feeling sorry for the poor, unsocialized dog huddling in the back of her kennel, or tempted by the challenge of the dog who avoids your advances, stop and think about it. You and your family are making a commitment to this dog for the next 10 to 15 years of your lives. You can look forward to 10 to 15 years of joy, sharing a bond with your dog that is based on mutual trust and respect, or you can face the prospect of a decade or more of headache and heartache while you manage difficult behaviors. You decide which is the right thing to do.
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